DE19854497A1 - Stable, flowable water-in-oil emulsions with high water content, useful as bases in cosmetic or dermatological formulations - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to water-in-oil emulsions comprising: (a) a maximum viscosity of 5,000 mPa.s; (b) a content of water and water-soluble substances of, in total, at least 75 wt. % and a content of lipids, emulsifiers and lipophilic constituents of, in total, at least 15 % with regard to the total weight of the preparations; (c) an oil phase of at least 75 wt. % comprising one or more substances selected from the group of non-polar lipids which are liquid at room temperature and which comprise a polarity greater than 30 mN/m, and/or selected from the group of silicone oil of any polarity, whereby this weight percentage is given with regard to the total weight of the oil phase, and; (d) at least one interfacially active substance selected from the group of substances of general formula (I).

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic and dermatological preparations, especially those of the water-in-oil type, process for their preparation and their Use for cosmetic and medical purposes.

Human skin, as the largest human organ, performs many vital functions. With an average surface area of about 2 m ² in adults, it plays a prominent role as a protective and sensory organ. The task of this organ is to mediate and ward off mechanical, thermal, actinic, chemical and biological stimuli. In addition, it plays an important role as regulator and target organ in human metabolism.

Under cosmetic skincare is primarily to understand the natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorga organisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural Fats, electrolytes) to strengthen or restore and their horny layer at assisted damage in their natural regeneration capacity.

If the barrier properties of the skin are disturbed, it can lead to increased resorp tion of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of microorganisms and Result in toxic or allergic skin reactions.

The aim of skin care, it is also the daily caused by washing the fat and To compensate for water loss of the skin. This is important when it is natural poor regeneration capacity is insufficient. In addition, skin care products Protect against environmental influences, especially from the sun and wind, and the skin old delay.  

Medical topical compositions typically contain one or more Medicines in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, it becomes clean Distinction between cosmetic and medical use and correspond products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany referenced (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Drug Act).

Emulsions are generally understood to mean heterogeneous systems consisting of two are not or only to a limited extent miscible liquids, the more common be referred to as phases. In an emulsion, one of the two is liquid in the form of very fine droplets dispersed in the other liquid.

Are the two liquids water and oil and are oil droplets finely distributed in Water, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, eg. Milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is characterized by the water. At egg A water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, eg butter) is the order of the day swept principle, whereby the basic character here is determined by the oil.

Of course, the person skilled in a variety of ways known to stable W / O To formulate preparations for cosmetic or dermatological use, for example, in the form of creams and ointments, ranging from space to skin temperature are spreadable, or as lotions and milk, in this temperature are rather flowable. However, the prior art knows only a few For emulsions that are so thin that they could be sprayed, for example.

In addition, low-viscosity preparations of the prior art often have the following part that they are unstable, to a narrow scope or a limited one are limited. Low-viscosity products in which, for example, strong Polar oils - like the commonly used in commercial products Pflan zenöle - are sufficiently stabilized, there is therefore currently not available in the market.

High water content W / O emulsions with a low viscosity above In addition, have a storage stability, as required for marketable products is to be formulated according to the prior art only very expensive. Dement speaking, the range of such formulations is extremely low. nevertheless  such formulations could not previously known to the consumer kosmeti offer benefits.

An object of the present invention was to provide preparations which have a very low viscosity and not the disadvantages of Stan of the art.

Another object of the present invention was to provide preparations supply, which with a high content of water-soluble and / or water miscible substances having cosmetic or dermatological activity can be without the galenic quality or other properties of the Preparations would be impaired.

As so-called "high internal phase" emulsions according to K. J. Lissant: The Geometry of High-Internal-Phase-Ratio Emulsions; Journal of Colloid and Interface Science 22, 462-468 (1966) Emulsions Having an Internal Phase of More Than 70% Are defined. The preparation of stable, flowable water-in-oil emulsions with a Water content of more than 70% turns out to be very difficult. In particular, are "High Internal Phase" W / O emulsions with a very high water content of more 85% ("Very High Internal Phase" W / O Emulsions) are inaccessible.

The technique of variation commonly used in water-in-oil emulsions the phase-volume ratio (i.e., incorporation of higher levels of liquid Lipids) can, due to the low lipid content in "High Internal Phase" -W / O- Emulsions only conditionally, at ("Very High Internal Phase" -W / O emulsions) at all not used. There are therefore only water-in-oil emulsions with a solid bis semi-solid consistency accessible. Also, the use of polar lipids, by which are usually obtained lower viscosity water-in-oil emulsions, leads not to the desired success.

Surprisingly, it has been found that water-in-oil emulsions

• a) a viscosity of not more than 5 000 mPa.s
• b) a content of water and optionally water-soluble substances of a total of at least 75 wt .-%, and a content of lipids, emulsifier  ren and lipophilic constituents of at least 15%, in each case bezo to the total weight of the preparations,
• c) whose oil phase comprises at least 75% by weight of one or more substances selected from the group of
  • 1. liquid at room temperature, non-polar lipids, which have a polarity greater than 30 mN / m, and / or
  • 2. the silicone oils of any polarity
  wherein this weight fraction is based on the total weight of the oil phase,
• d) containing at least one surface-active substance selected from the group of substances of the general formula (I)
  where A and A 'are the same or different organic radicals selected from the group of branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl Al and acyl and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and also from the group of ester functionalities interconnected Hy droxyacylgruppen, after scheme
  where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200,
• e) a is a number from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 60, in particular from 5 to 40 provides,
• f) X is a single bond or the group
  
• g) represents
• h) R ₁ and R _{2 are} independently selected from the group H, methyl,
• i) R _{3 is} selected from the group H, as well as the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 Kohlenstoffato men,

to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

The structural formula is not to be interpreted as meaning that, by the subscript a, all the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ represented in the bracket must in each case be identical throughout the molecule. Rather, these residues can be found in any of the a fragments

be chosen freely.

It is possible and beneficial to the total content of water and water-soluble Substances of the W / O emulsions according to the invention to greater than 80 wt .-%, ins particular 85 wt .-% to choose, in each case based on the total weight of Preparations.

An example of particularly advantageous verwen within the meaning of the present invention dende surfactants is the polyethylene glycol-30-dipolyhydroxy stearate (PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate), available from ICI Surfactants sold under the trade name ARLACEL® P135.

The total amount of surfactants used in the invention Substances in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations advantageously from the range of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.25-5.0% by weight  in particular 0.75-3.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Preparations.

Although it is known that with emulsifiers of the type described above W / O Emulsi generate high-water content. Nevertheless, the known state could The technique does not point the way to the present invention.

In the context of the present disclosure is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like, the term "lipids" is sometimes used, as the person skilled in the art is quite common. Also, the terms "oil phase" and "lipid phase" become synonymous applied.

Among other things, oils and fats differ in their polarity, which is difficult to achieve is defined. It has already been proposed to oppose the interfacial tension To assume water as a measure of the polarity index of an oil or an oil phase. It is true that the lower the polarity of the oil phase in question Interfacial tension between this oil phase and water is. According to the invention the interfacial tension is given as a possible measure of the polarity of a considered an oil component.

The interfacial tension is the force that is thought of in the limit surface between two-phase line of length of one meter acts. The physical unit for this interfacial tension is calculated classical way The force / length relationship is usually divided into mN / m (millinewton) Meters). She has positive sign, if she has the aspiration, the To reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign.

As a boundary, below which an oil phase as "polar" and above which an oil phase se is considered to be "nonpolar" 30 mN / m are considered according to the invention.

Particularly advantageous are the following, at room temperature, liquid non-polar Lipids proved: hydrocarbons (mineral oils, cyloparaffin, polyisobutenes, polyde cene), non-ethoxylated or propoxylated ethers (caprylyl ether / Cetiol OE) and Silicone oils (Dimethicone, Cylomethicone, Dimethiconol).  

According to the above definition of polarity, silicone oils are not considered to be nonpolar but to fall usually in the midpolar region (typically between 20 and 30 mN / m).

It is possible according to the invention, a certain proportion of polar lipids in the Lipidmi However, this proportion should not exceed 25% by weight, be preferably carries less than 15 wt .-% and should ideally not more than ≦ 10 % By weight, based on the total lipid phase.

According to the teaching presented here, W / O emulsions are available whose viscosi at 25 ° C is less than 5,000 mPa.s (= millipascal seconds), in particular less than 4,000 mPa.s, preferably less than 3,500 mPa.s (HAAKE Viscotester VT-02).

Advantageously, the oils of the invention are also selected from the group of Paraffin oils, polyolefins and Vaseline (petrolatum). Among the polyolefins are Polydecenes and hydrogenated polyisobutene are the preferred substances.

For the purposes of the present invention, the oil phase can also be used, provided that the Patent claims listed features are observed - beneficial substances selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unreacted branched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and from the group the ester of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 3 to 30 C-Ato men. Such ester oils can then be advantageously selected from the group Isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n- Hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2- Ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, Oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semisynthetic tables and natural mixtures of such esters, such as. B. jojoba oil.

Furthermore, the oil phase can be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alkoxy as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated  and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a Chain length of 8 to 24, in particular 12-18 C atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides For example, they can be advantageously selected from the group of synthetic, semisynthetic and natural oils, e.g. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, earth nut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like.

If desired, can be used in the oil phase fat and / or Wachskom components - in minor amounts as secondary components - from the plant group waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes be chosen. Favorable according to the invention are, for example, candelilla wax, Car Naubawachs, Japanwachs, Espartograswachs, cork wax, Guarumawachs, rice germ oil wax, sugarcane wax, berry wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, shellac wax, spermaceti, lanolin (wool wax), Burdock fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), paraffin waxes and microwaxes.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as, for example, Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate), Syncrowax HGLC (C _16-36 fatty acid triglyceride) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 ). Fatty acid) available from CRODA GmbH and montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (eg dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 -alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as Hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated cinnamon oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides), triglycerides such as Trihy droxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol montanate. Also advantageous are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties as the mentioned fatty and / or wax components, such as, for example, stearoxytrimethylsilane.

If desired, the fat and / or wax components may be used individually as well as also present in a mixture.

Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in Use of the present invention. It may also benefit if necessary  be liable, waxes, such as cetyl palmitate, as a lipid component of the oil phase use.

Of the hydrocarbons, paraffin oil, hydrogenated polyolefins (eg hydrogenated Polyisobutene) squalane and squalene advantageous in the context of the present invention to use.

Particularly advantageous according to the invention are those emulsions which are characterized characterized in that the oil phase to at least 50 wt .-%, preferably to more than 75 Wt .-% of at least one substance selected from the group selected from Group petroleum jelly (Petrolatum), paraffin oil and polyolefins, among the latter be preferably: polydecenes.

Advantageously, the oil phase may further contain cyclic or linear silicone have oils or consist entirely of such oils, although before is added, except the silicone oil or silicone oils to an additional content of to use their oil phase components.

Advantageously, cyclomethicone (Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan) can be used. However, other silicone oils are also advantageous in the context of the present invention For example, hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (me thylphenylsiloxan).

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention optionally contains advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Example, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol Mo noethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl or mono butyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ether and analogous products, furthermore lower C number alcohols, e.g. As ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerol and in particular one or more thickening agents, which or which can be selected from the group of silica, aluminum silicates, Po lysaccharides or their derivatives, for. Hyaluronic acid, xanthan gum, hydroxypropene pylmethylcellulose, particularly advantageous from the group of polyacrylates, preferred a polyacrylate from the group of so-called carbopols, for example Carbo pole types 980, 981, 1382, 2984, 5984, or also the types ETD (Easy-to-di  sperse) 2001, 2020, 2050, each individually or in any combination at the.

A particular advantage of the present invention is that it allows high Concentrations of polyols, in particular glycerol use.

Particularly advantageous preparations are also obtained if as additional or Active ingredients antioxidants are used. According to contain the Zube advantageous one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all be used for cosmetic and / or the matological applications use suitable or customary antioxidants be.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg, glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg, urocanic acid) and derivatives thereof, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D Carnosine, L-carnoine and their derivatives (eg, anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. Dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and Lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and Gly cerylester) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodi propionic acid and derivatives thereof (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) and Sulfoximine compounds (for example, buthionine sulfoximines, homozysteinsulfoximine, buthione sulfones, penta, hexa, heptate Hioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerated doses (eg. Pmol to μmol / kg), furthermore (metal) chelators (for example α-hydroxyfatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (for example citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Gallenex tract, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (eg γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives ( for example, ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg, vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), and benzylic resin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and their derivatives Derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and derivatives thereof, mannose and derivatives thereof, zinc and derivatives thereof (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ), and derivatives thereof (eg B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg. B. style benoxid, trans-stilbene oxide) and the present invention suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these drugs.

Particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, oil-soluble Antioxi danties are used.

An amazing feature of the present invention is that inventive Preparations very good vehicle for cosmetic or dermatological agents in the skin are, with preferred active ingredients being antioxidants that protect the skin can protect oxidative stress. Preferred antioxidants are included Vitamin E and its derivatives as well as Vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparation is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, more preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight. %, in particular 1-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its derivatives are the antioxidant (s) advantageous, their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

If vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the or which are antioxidants is advantageous, their respective concentrations of in the range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the total weight of the formulation to choose.

It is of course known to the person skilled in the art that cosmetic preparations mostly not without the usual auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. The invention Accordingly, cosmetic and dermatological preparations can also be used contain cosmetic excipients, as ver usually in such preparations ver For example, bodying agents, stabilizers, fillers, preservatives foaming agents, perfumes, anti-foaming agents, dyes, Pig  pigments that have a coloring effect, thickeners, surface-active substances zen, emulsifiers, softening, moistening and / or moisturizing Substan zen, anti-inflammatory substances, additional active ingredients such as vitamins or Proteins, light stabilizers, insect repellents, bactericides, virucides, water, salts, antimicrobial, proteolytic or keratolytic substances, medicines or other common ingredients of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation Alcohols such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, organic solvents medium or electrolytes.

The latter can for example be chosen from the group of salts with follow the anions: chlorides, also inorganic oxo-element anions, of these in particular especially sulfates, carbonates, phosphates, borates and aluminates. Also on organic Anion-based electrolytes are advantageous, for. Lactates, acetates, benzoates, pro Pionate, tartrates, citrates, amino acids, ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and their Salts and more. Preferred cations of the salts are ammonium, alkyl ammonium, alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, magnesium, iron or zinc ions ver applies. There is no need to mention that in cosmetics only physiologically un Controversial electrolytes should be used. Particularly preferred are potassium chloride, table salt, magnesium sulfate, zinc sulfate and mixtures thereof.

Mutatis mutandis, corresponding requirements apply to the formulation medical shear preparations.

The W / O emulsions according to the invention can be used as a basis for cosmetic or dermatological formulations. These can work together as usual be set and, for example, for the treatment and care of the skin and / or the hair, as a lip care product, as a Deoprodukt and as make-up or Ab make-up product in decorative cosmetics or serve as a sunscreen preparation. to Application are the cosmetic and dermatological according to the invention preparations in the manner customary for cosmetics or dermatological agents and / or the hair applied in sufficient quantity.

Accordingly, cosmetic or topical dermatological compositions according to the present invention, depending on their structure, for example ver be used as skin protection cream, cleansing milk, sunscreen lotion, nutrient  cream, day cream or night cream, etc. It may be possible and advantageous the compositions of the invention as a basis for pharmaceutical To use formulations.

The low-viscosity cosmetic or dermatological agents according to the invention For example, as from aerosol containers, squeeze bottles or by a Pumping sprayable preparations or in the form of a roll-on Applicable liquid composition, but also in the form of a from normal bottles and containers applicable emulsion.

As a propellant for sprayable from aerosol containers cosmetic or dermatologi For the purposes of the present invention, preparations are the customary known Volatile, liquefied propellants, for example hydrocarbons (propane, Butane, isobutane) which are used alone or in admixture with each other can. Also, compressed air is advantageous to use.

Of course, the expert knows that there are nontoxic propellants per se, the reason in addition to the realization of the present invention in the form of Aerosolpräpa would be appropriate, but nevertheless because of a dubious effect on the Environment or other concomitant circumstances should be waived, especially fluorine hydrocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons (CFCs).

Also favorable are those cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in in the form of a sunscreen. Preferably, these contain next the active compound combinations according to the invention additionally at least one UV-A fil tersubstanz and / or at least one UV-B filter substance and / or at least one inorganic pigment.

But it is also advantageous in the sense of the present inventions, such kosmeti and dermatological preparations, the main ones of which are The purpose is not to protect against sunlight, but Contains protective substances. So z. B. in day creams usually UV-A or Incorporated UV-B filter substances.  

Also provide UV protectants, as well as antioxidants and, desired if, preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against Spoiling.

Advantageously, preparations according to the invention may also contain substances absorb UV radiation in the UVB range, the total amount of fil tersubstanzen z. B. 0.1 wt .-% to 30 wt .-%, preferably 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, ins particular 1.0 to 6.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Zuberei in order to provide cosmetic preparations containing the hair or protect the skin from the full range of ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for hair or skin.

If the emulsions according to the invention contain UVB filter substances, they may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention advantageous oil-soluble UVB filters are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidenecamphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- methoxycinnamate;
• Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, homomenthyl salicylate,
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzo phenone;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid (2 ethylhexyl) ester,
• Derivatives of 1,3,5-triazine, preferably 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'- hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine.

The list of said UVB filters used in combination with the invention Of course, combinations of active ingredients can not be used limi be polluting.  

It may also be advantageous to lipodispersions according to the invention with UVA filters to formulate, which hitherto usually contained in cosmetic preparations are. These substances are preferably derivatives of dibene zoylmethane, in particular 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane 1,3-dione and 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Cosmetic and dermatological preparations according to the invention can also contain inorganic pigments which are commonly used in cosmetics for the protection of Skin can be used against UV rays. These are oxides of titanium, Zinc, iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum, cerium and mixtures and modifications in which the oxides are the active agents. Beson These are preferably pigments based on titanium dioxide.

As further constituents can be used:

• - Fats, waxes and other natural and synthetic fats, preferably example, esters of fatty acids with alcohols of low C number, z. With Isopro panol, propylene glycol or glycerol, or esters of fatty alcohols with alkane acids of low C number or with fatty acids;
• - Alcohols, diols or polyols low C number, and their ethers, preferably Example, ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, mono ethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or monoethyl ethers and analog products.

Compositions according to the invention may also contain active substances (one or more compounds) which are selected from the group: acetylsalicylic acid, atropine, azulene, hydrocortisone and its derivatives, eg. As hydrocortisone 17-valerate, vitamins, eg. As ascorbic acid and its derivatives, vitamins of the B and D series, very low the vitamin B ₁ , the vitamin B ₁₂ the vitamin D ₁ , but also bisabolol, un saturated fatty acids, especially the essential fatty acids (often also vitamin F ge Named), in particular γ-linolenic acid, oleic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, Docosahexa acid and their derivatives, chloramphenicol, caffeine, prostaglandins, thymol, camphor, extracts or other products of plant and animal origin, eg. B. evening primrose oil, borage oil or currant seed oil, fish oils, cod liver oil but also ceramides and ceramide-like compounds and so on. It is also advantageous to choose the active ingredients from the group of lubricating substances, example, purcellin, Eucerit® and Neocerit®.

The amount of such agents (one or more compounds) in the preparation gen according to the invention is preferably 0.001 to 30 wt .-%, be particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total amount weight of the preparation.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without it limit. The numerical values in the examples are by weight, be based on the total weight of the respective preparations.  

Example 1 (W / O lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isohexadecan 4.50 Paraffinum liquidum 12.50 glycerin 3.00 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 2 (W / O lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 squalane 6.00 Paraffinum liquidum 6.00 Hydrogenated polysiobutene 6.00 glycerin 3.00 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 3 (W / O Lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Cyloparaffin 10.00 Paraffinum liquidum 7.50 tocopherol 0.50 glycerin 3.00 panthenol 0.30 1,3-butylene glycol 1.00 Serine 0.30 biotin 0.10 distarch 1.00 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 4 (W / O lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isohexadecan 4.00 Paraffinum subliquidum 8.00 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane 1.00 octyl 1.50 4-methyl-benzylidenecamphor 1.50 Tris [anilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - triazin 0.50 Titanium dioxide 1.00 zinc oxide 1.00 glycerin 1.00 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 5 (W / O Lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isohexadecan 5.00 Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 glycerin 3.00 sodium chloride 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 6 (Liquid Emulsion Makeup)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.00 Isohexadecan 3.00 Paraffinum liquidum 13,00 glycerin 1.50 magnesium silicate 0.50 mica 0.50 iron oxides 0.50 Titanium dioxide 0.50 talc 0.50 magnesium silicate 0.50 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 7 (W / O Lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.50 squalane 3.00 polydecene 3.00 Paraffinum liquidum 7.00 Hydrogenated polysiobutene 3.00 glycerin 1.00 sorbitol 5.00 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Example 8 (W / O Lotion)

Wt .-% PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate 2.0 Isohexadecan 5.00 Paraffinum liquidum 10.00 glycerin 20.0 magnesium sulfate 0.70 Perfume, preservatives, dyes, antioxidants q.s. water ad 100.00

Claims (4)

1. Water-in-oil emulsions

• a) a viscosity of not more than 5 000 mPa.s
• b) a total content of water and water-soluble substances of at least 75% by weight, and a content of lipids, emulsifiers and lipophilic constituents of at least 15% in total, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations,
• c) whose oil phase comprises at least 75% by weight of one or more substances selected from the group of
  • 1. liquid at room temperature, non-polar lipids, which have a polarity greater than 30 mN / m, and / or
  • 2. the silicone oils of any polarity
  wherein this weight fraction is based on the total weight of the oil phase,
• d) containing at least one surface-active substance selected from the group of substances of the general formula (I)
  
• e) where A and A 'are identical or different organic radicals selected from the group consisting of the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals and hydroxyacyl radicals having 10-30 carbon atoms and furthermore from the group of hydroxyacyl groups linked together via ester functions, according to the scheme
  where R 'is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and R "is selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkylene groups having 1 to 20 carbon atoms and b can assume numbers from 0 to 200,
• f) a represents a number from 1 to 100, preferably from 2 to 60, in particular from 5 to 40,
• g) X is a single bond or the group
  
• h) represents,
• i) R ₁ and R _{2 are} independently selected from the group H, methyl,
• j) R _{3 is} selected from the group H, as well as the branched and unbranched, saturated and unsaturated alkyl and acyl radicals having 1-20 Kohlenstoffato men.

2. emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that their content of water and water-soluble substances is greater than 80% by weight, in particular 85% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations. 3. emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that as grenzflächenakti Substance polyethylene glycol 30-Dipolyhydroxystearat is selected.   4. Emulsions according to claim 1, characterized in that the oil phase to reduce at least 50% by weight, preferably more than 75% by weight, of at least one substance, selected from the group selected from the group Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil and polyolefins, among the latter preferred: polydecenes.