DE19808395A1 - Hair treatment composition - Google Patents

Description

The invention relates to hair treatment compositions which Precursors of hair integral lipid fatty acids ten, and the use of the compositions to the physi to improve cal cal properties of the hair fiber, esp special shine, smoothness, combability, softness and integrity the cuticle.

It is believed that branched and straight chain integrals Lipids play an important role in structure and integrity the hair fiber play, especially with regard to the upper surface properties. The lipids are on the fiber surface present, bound to the surface membrane and in the Cell membrane complex, and is believed to be fiber gloss, smoothness, combability, softness, protection, lubricity and integrity of the cuticle.

Integral surface lipids pass through the fibers through physika and chemical and chemical damage, including through Washing, sharp shaping treatments and the weather  conditions. It was found that this loss caused the rough increased the fiber and reduced the shine. It is announced take that the branched C21 fatty acid - 18-methyleicosan acid -, a particularly important component of the lipid profile of the hair is. Fatty acid analysis of human hair with Maple Syrup Urine Disease (MSUD) shows that only one there is a very small amount of 18-methyleicosanoic acid, compared to the amount found in normal controls that will. The same analysis also suggests that it there are also reductions in other branched fatty acids (C17: Obr, C19: Obr, C20: Obr). There was also no increase branched saturated fatty acids (C16: 0, C18: 0, C20: 0, C22: 0 and C24: 0) [Jones et al., Journal of Investigative Der matology, 104 (4) 1995, 688]. Hair from patients with MSUD showed a lack of structure in the fiber cuticle.

EP-A 0 483 689 relates to a cosmetic hair composition, which is a fatty acid with a specific kind of branched Chain contains, especially 18-methyleicosanoic acid (in the following referred to as 18-MEA) and salts and esters thereof. The To compositions are said to damage the hair, such as split ends ends, prevent and a soft, smooth and shiny con deliver ditioning effect.

However, the branched fatty acids must either by Ab separation and extraction from hair or with a multi-stage chemical processes as described in EP-A 0 483 689, he which is a suitable phosphonium salt and aldehyde precursors to undergo the Wittig reaction with a subsequent reduction and hydrolysis.  

Straight chain fatty acids, such as palmitic acid, have also been found in hair treatment compositions added to the hairy to improve.

The exogenous application of free, straight-chain or ver branched fatty acids together with the help of hair treatment Settlements as described above have several disadvantages. As first it is the cost of extracting the materials from it natural sources or chemical synthesis. Furthermore free fatty acids that are supplied exogenously do not integrated and firmly bound by the fiber, in contrast to natural ones made from the fiber only by alkaline hydrolysis are extractable. Natural integral lipids of the hair can be covalently bound to the fiber via a Thioester bond or other essential ingredients the fiber can be derivatized, such as phospholipids and cerium amid.

It has now been found that grown hair follicles branched and straight chain fatty acids such as 18-MEA and palmitic, stea succinic and myristic acid, can synthesize when using specific nutrients, the carbon do nators for the fatty acid chain extension. This spe specific nutrients are made from special amino acids, Sugars and organic carboxylic acids and their salts out elects.

It is known that amino acids are used in human nutrition hair roots and the growth of human hair are important.  

GB 1 401 089 describes hair treatment compositions which contain natural amino acids or protein hydrolyzates. Be glycine, glutamic acid, aspartic acid, Lysine, serine and alanine because these amino acids are more natural wise in the form of polypeptides, in the substances collagen and keratin, which are structural components of human Skin and human hair occur combined, found will. A shampoo composition is described which Contains protein hydrolysates, which through the complete hydro lysis of collages.

EP 0 186 025 discloses cosmetic preparations for skin care and hair care with a hydrolyzate of almond protein. Man delprotein is characterized by a high content of acid and base amino acids and contains 40 to 50% by weight Glutamic acid, aspartic acid and arginine.

Numerous publications describe the use of an An Order of amino acids, often in "cocktail" form, in lotions or tonics for topical application to baldness and others Cure skin, scalp and hair disorders. examples for such disclosures are JP 59/007111, which is a hair cosmetic kum affects with dandruff-preventing properties, the Contains vitamin E acetate and methionine, CA 888 689, the hair and scalp preparations for normalizing scalp divorces and encourages hair growth that describes among other things can contain cysteine and methionine in egg base material, bergamot oil and non-ionic emulsifier ren contains, and WO 92/00720, which be a composition writes containing L-leucine, L-isoleucine and L-valine, which stimulate the growth and regeneration of hair and nails should lieren.  

The prior art discussed above does not apply to Biosynthesis of integral lipid fatty acids in the hair Hair follicles.

The present invention provides a hair treatment composition to provide hair integral lipid fatty acid precursors to the hair follicle comprising

• (i) a first fatty acid precursor, which is an amino acid is selected from leucine, isoleucine, methionine and Va lin and mixtures thereof, the precursor being in one Proportion of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, based on the Ge total weight of the composition, and from 20 to 100 % By weight based on the total weight of the total composition of existing amino acids, is present
• (ii) 0.01 to 20% by weight of a second fatty acid precursor selected from sugars, mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof, the second fatty acid precursor units with 2 or 3 carbon atoms for the fat can provide acid extension,
• (iii) at least one surfactant selected from anionic, am photeren, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

Isoleucine is the most preferred amino acid (i) for compositions according to the invention. It is believed without to be bound by a theory that this is the most direct Precursor to the 18-MEA synthesis in the hair follicle is 18-MEA being a particularly important component in lipid pro fil is the hair fiber. Some proposed biochemical Metabolic pathways have been reported in the literature, but up to not yet researched exactly.  

It is believed that amino acid (i) is the branch point for the branched fatty acid of the integral lipid of Hair supplies. It can also be catabolized in the hair follicle become precursors for the branched fatty acids of the inte to deliver grail lipids to the hair.

Simple derivatives of amino acid (i) can be used the, e.g. B. salts and hydrosalts. It is still possible to derivate derivatives such as acyl, ester and peptide derivatives the. These can also be used as salts or hydrosalts will.

Examples are N-alkanoyl derivatives in which the alkanoyl radical an alkyl chain length of 3 to 20 carbon atoms before has 4 to 10 carbon atoms, e.g. B. N-butanoyl-, N- Hexanoyl and N-octanoyl derivatives, N-alkyl or COO-alkyl-De derivatives in which the alkyl group is straight-chain and 1 to Has 20 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, e.g. B. methyl, ethyl and n-propyl derivatives and peptide derivatives, in which the peptide residue 2 to 8 amino acid residues or substi tuated amino acid residues.

Mixtures of amino acids can be used, e.g. B. the which are obtained from a protein hydrolyzate. However, must such a mix should be chosen carefully to be sure deliver that 20 to 100 wt .-%, based on the total Ge importance of the existing composition Amino acids, from one of the specific amino acids (i) or a mixture of the specific amino acids (i) becomes.  

90 to 100% by weight, based on the total amount, are preferred importance of the existing composition Amino acids, from one of the specific amino acids (i) or a mixture of the specific amino acids (i). A single amino acid is particularly preferred Amino acids (i) used. Component (ii) is a two ter fatty acid precursor selected from sugars, mono-, di- and Tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof, the second fatty acid precursor units with 2 or 3 carbon atoms for the Can provide fatty acid chain extension. The unit with 2 or 3 carbon atoms themselves can be obtained directly from the molecule originate or indirectly from the molecule through catabolism be derived.

Examples of sugar of component (ii) are sucrose, Fructose and glucose. Glucose is particularly preferred. At games for mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acids are acetic acid, Malonic acid, lactic acid, citric acid and propionic acid. Ge Suitable salts of these acids are those that make up units with 2 or 3 carbon atoms for the fatty acid chains acidification in a biologically available Shape can be derived. Examples of such salts are the water-soluble alkali, alkaline earth and ammonium salts (including substituted ammonium salts) of these Acids.

It has been shown that these components (ii) when al line used for the biosynthesis of straight chain Fatty acids in the hair follicle can contribute. Donors for two (e.g. acetate, lactate) and three (e.g. propionate) coals  Substance atoms should contain fatty acids with an even or odd the number of carbon atoms from the chain extension deliver.

In combination with the amino acid component (i), Vor Runners for straight and branched fatty acids are fed (the amino acid unit that provides the branch point, as discussed above), which is advantageous since it was found that the integral key lipids of the hair of both straight as well as from branched fatty acids.

The total amount of amino acid (i) and carbon dona tors (ii) in the compositions according to the invention lies in Range of 0.01 to 20% by weight of the composition, preferred 0.02 to 5%, most preferably 0.05 to 2%, for each Active ingredient.

The ratio of components (i) to (ii) is such that a complementary effect of amino acid and carbon donor is achieved to a suitable balance of straight and to deliver branched fatty acid precursors. The special Ratio depends on the hair condition and the specific averted active ingredients. The ratio of (i) to (ii) is generally in a range of 10: 1 to 1:10, preferred 3: 1 to 1: 3, most preferably 1: 1.

Advantageously, the composition of the invention can be used as Shampoo can be formulated and then includes one or more cleaning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and for that topical application to the hair are suitable. Suitable rei nigging surfactants used individually or in combination can be selected from anionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants and mixtures thereof.  

Examples of anionic surfactants are the alkyl sulfates, Alkyl ether sulfates, alkaryl sulfonates, alkanoyl isethionates, Al alkyl succinates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, N-alkyl sarcosinates, alkyl phosphates, alkyl ether phosphates, alkyl ether carboxylates and α- Olefin sulfonates, especially their sodium, magnesium, am monium and mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts. The alkyl and acyl groups generally contain 8 to 18 carbons atoms and can be unsaturated. The alkyl ether sulf fate, alkyl ether phosphates and alkyl ether carboxylates can 1 up to 10 ethylene oxide or propylene oxide units per molecule contain.

Typical anionic surfactants for use in shampoos Invention include sodium oleyl succinate, ammonium lauryl sul fosuccinate, ammonium lauryl sulfate, sodium dodecylbenzenesulfo nat, triethanolamine dodecylbenzenesulfonate, sodium cocoylise thionate, sodium lauryl isethionate and sodium N-lauryl sarcosi of course. The most preferred are anionic surfactants Sodium lauryl sulfate, triethanolamine monolauryl phosphate, natri umlauryl ether sulfate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO, ammonium lauryl sulfate and ammonium lauryl ether sulfate 1EO, 2EO and 3EO.

Examples of amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants include Alkylamine oxides, alkylbetaines, alkylamidopropylbetaines, alkyl sulfobetaine (Sultaine), alkyl glycinates, alkyl carboxy glycinates, alkyl amphopropionates, alkyl amphoglycinates, alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysultaine, acyl taurate and acyl glutamate, wherein the alkyl and acyl groups have 8 to 19 carbon atoms exhibit. Typical amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants for Use in shampoos of the invention include laurylamine  oxide, Cocosdimethylsulfopropylbetain and preferably Lau rylbetaine, cocosamidopropylbetaine and sodium cocosamphopro pionate one.

The cleaning surfactant (s) can be found in Sham poo compositions of the invention in a total amount of about 1 to about 40% by weight based on the total weight of the Shampoo composition, preferably about 2 to about 30% by weight, optimally about 10 to about 30% by weight.

The shampoo can also contain nonionic surfactants to help in the composition aesthetic, physical or pure promoting properties. The nonionic surfactant can in an amount ranging from 0 to about 5% by weight on the total weight.

For example, representative nonionic surfactants in sham poos of the invention include condensation products of aliphatic primary or secondary linear or branched (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) alcohols or phenols with alkylene oxides, usually ethylene oxide, which generally have 6 to 30 ethylene oxide groups.

Other exemplary nonionic surfactants include mono- or dialkylalkanolamide. Examples include coconut mono- or diethanolamide and cocosmonoisopropanolamide.

Other nonionic surfactants that may be included in the shampoos of the invention are the alkyl polyglycosides (APG). Typically, the APG is one that includes an alkyl group attached (optionally via a bridging group) to a block of one or more glycosyl groups. Preferred APGs are defined by the following formula:

RO - (G) _n

where R is a branched or straight-chain alkyl group, which can be saturated or unsaturated, and G is a saccha is ridgruppe.

R can mean an average alkyl chain length of C ₅ to about C ₂₀ be. R is preferably an average alkyl chain length of about C ₈ to about C ₁₂ . Most preferably the value for R is between about 9.5 and about 10.5. G can be selected from C ₅ or C ₆ monosaccharide residues and is preferably a glucoside. G can be selected from the group consisting of glucose, xylose, lactose, fructose, mannose and derivatives thereof. G is preferably glucose.

The degree of polymerization n can have a value of about 1 to about Have 10 or more. The value for n is preferably in the range from about 1.1 to about 2. Most preferably, the value is for n in the range from about 1.3 to about 1.5.

Suitable for use in the present invention Alkyl polyglycosides are commercially available and include e.g. B. such materials as Oramix NS10 from Seppic, Plantaren 1200 and Plantaren 2000 from Henkel the.

Similarly, the composition can have other emulsions ren, conditioning agents, inorganic salts, humid Contain agents and similar materials to make the assembly setting with desirable aesthetic or physical Properties.  

Exemplary conditioning agents used in the invention Shampoos that may be included include silicones. Typically, these are in one composition part of 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weight, available.

Silicones are particularly preferred conditioning agents for hair. Exemplary silicones include volatile and non-volatile silicones, e.g. B. polyalkylsiloxanes (given if necessary, at the end with one or more hydroxyl groups), Polyalkylaryl siloxanes, siloxane gums and resins, cyclomethi cone, amino functional silicones, quaternary silicones and Mi made of it.

Preferred silicones include polydimethylsiloxanes (with which CTFA name Dimethicone) and hydroxylated polydimethyl siloxanes (with the CTFA name Dimethiconol). Appropriate is usually the average particle size of the sili cons in the shampoo composition less than 20 µm and be preferably smaller than 2 µm. The particle size can be adjusted with the Light diffraction technique using a 2600D particle size measuring device can be measured by Malvern Instruments. The Silicone is preferably emulsion polymerized because it allows light, very high viscosity silicones easier to process The silicone can be cross-linked.

Silicones of the above types are often commercially available e.g. B. as DC-1784 and DCX2-1391 from Dow Corning.

Shampoo compositions according to the invention can also be a contain polymeric cationic conditioning compound, which is substantive for the hair and conditioning the hair Gives properties. The polymeric cationic conditionie  Rende compound is generally in a proportion of 0.01 to 5%, preferably about 0.05 to 1%, more preferably about 0.08 to about 0.5% by weight. Synthetic or natural poly mers with a quaternized nitrogen atom are suitable. The molecular weight of the polymer is generally between between 5,000 and 10,000,000, typically at least 10,000 and preferably it is in the range of 100,000 to about 2,000,000.

Exemplary synthetic quaternized polymers include e.g. B. a: cationic copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salt (e.g. chloride salt) (in the Industry from the Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Associa tion, "CTFA", referred to as Polyquaternium-16); Copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidine and dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate (referred to as Polyquaternium-11 in the CTFA industry); cationic diallyl po containing quaternary ammonium groups polymers, including e.g. B. Dimethyldiallylammoniumchloridho mopolymer (in industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium-6 be draws); Mineral acid salts and amino alkyl esters of homo- and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids with 3 to 5 Koh len atoms, such as in U.S. U.S. Patent No. 4,009,256, and cationic polyacrylamides, as described in WO 95/22311 ben.

Exemplary quaterni from natural sources based polymers include quaternized cellulosic compounds bonds and cationic guar gum derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. Examples are JAGUAR C-13S, JAGUAR C-15 and JAGUAR C17, which are commercially available from Meyhall in the JAGUAR range.  

The shampoo composition according to the invention can also be optional tative conditioning agents such as branched chain fatty acid ren, e.g. B. 18-MEA, or straight chain fatty acids such as Palmi contain tinic acid, myristic and / or stearic acid. Generally can mean these ingredients in a lot in the range from 0 to about 3% by weight, based on the total weight to be hold.

Compositions according to the invention can also be used as hair conditioners tioner for the treatment of hair (typically after the Shampooing) and formulated for the subsequent rinsing will. Such preparations then contain one or more con ditioning surfactants that are cosmetically acceptable and for topical application to the hair is suitable.

Suitable conditioning surfactants are selected from ka ionic surfactants used individually or in a mixture will. Examples include quaternary ammonium hydroxides or Salts thereof, e.g. B. chlorides.

Suitable cationic surfactants for use in hair conditioning Kidneys of the invention include cetyltrimethylammonium chloro rid, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Tetramethylammonium chloride, tetraethylammonium chloride, octyl trimethylammonium chloride, dodecyltrimethylammonium chloride, Hexadecyltrimethylammonium chloride, octyldimethylbenzylammoni umchloride, decyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride, stearyldime thylbenzylammonium chloride, didodecyldimethylammonium chloride, Dioctadecyldimethylammonium chloride, tallow trimethylammonium chloride, cocostrimethylammonium chloride and the corresponding Hydroxides thereof. Other suitable cationic surfactants include such materials with the CTFA designations  Quaternium-5, Quaternium-31 and Quaternium-18. Mixtures each that of the previous materials are also suitable. A particularly suitable cationic surfactant for use in Hair conditioners of the invention is cetyltrimethylammonium chloride that is commercially available, e.g. B. as GENAMIN CTAC by Hoechst Celanese.

In hair conditioners of the invention, the ka ionic surfactant preferably 0.01 to 10%, more preferably 0.05 to 5%, most preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight of the combination settlement.

Conditioners of the invention advantageously include a Fatty alcohol material. The combined use of fatty alcohol raw materials and cationic surfactants in conditioning Compositions are said to be particularly advantageous since this leads to the formation of a lamellar phase in which the cationi is dispersed.

Exemplary fatty alcohols include 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 16 to 20. Examples of suitable fatty alcohols hole include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, and mixtures of it.

The proportion of fatty alcohol materials suitably lies at 0.01 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5% by weight of the composition tongue. The weight ratio of cationic surfactant to fat alcohol is suitably 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 4: 1 to 1: 8, optimal 1: 1 to 1: 4.

Conditioners of the invention can use other emulsifiers, con ditioning agents, inorganic salts, humectants and similar materials included to the composition  desirable aesthetic or physical properties to rent. Silicones as above for shampoo compositions described are particularly preferred conditioning Mit tel for hair.

As further optional components for incorporation into Sham poo or conditioning compositions of the invention can the following common auxiliary materials in addition to water Mentioned for use in cosmetic contexts the following are known: suspending agents, thickeners, Pearlescent agents, opacifiers, salts, perfumes, Buffering agents, dyes, plasticizers, humectants, Foam stabilizers, sun protection materials, antimicro biological agents, preservatives, antioxidants, natural Liche oils and extracts, blowing agents.

The compositions of the invention are primary for topical application to the hair and / or scalp of a human intended the surface properties the hair fiber, such as smoothness, softness, combability, integrity to improve the cuticle and in particular shine.

The invention thus provides the use of an assembly tongue, as defined above, by at least one of the following Improve hair surface properties: gloss, smoothness, Combability, softness and integrity of the cuticle.

Components (i) and (ii) can also be used independently Neten amounts, as described above, in a hair treatment composition used to make the hair follicle fat to supply acid precursors to the integral lipids of the hair.  

Thus the invention provides the use of (i) or (ii) in a hair treatment composition as a fatty acid precursor fer for integral lipids of the hair to at least one of the following surface properties of the hair fiber ser: gloss, smoothness, combability, softness and integrity the cuticle.

The invention is now not limited by the following Examples, further explained.

example 1 Demonstration of the incorporation of isoleucine in lipids human hair follicles in vitro

Human hair follicles were removed using the method of Philpott et al. (1990, J. Cell. Sci. 97: 463 to 470) isolated and grown in the presence of radiolabeled isoleucine. The follicles were incubated for 2 days at 37 ° C, 5% CO ₂ in air and <95% moisture.

At the end of the entire incubation period, the lipidge the follicle is extracted and analyzed.

The results clearly showed that the majority of the labeled ten molecular type was 18MEA (the identity of the other radioactive Type of labeled molecules was not determined).  

Example 2 Demonstration of human incorporation of acetate into lipids hair follicles in vitro

Follicles were isolated as described in Example 1 and grown in the presence of radioactively labeled acetate. The Follicles were 3 days below those given in Example 1 Incubated conditions. At the end of the entire incubation period The lipid content of the follicles was extracted and ana lysed.

The results clearly showed that the majority of the labeled ten types of molecules (in decreasing order of the existing radioactive labeling) was as follows: palmitic acid, stea rinic acid, myristic acid, arachic acid and 18-MEA. The ident The activity of the other types of molecules has not been determined.

Example 3 Demonstration of the incorporation of glucose into lipids by human hair follicles in vitro

The follicles were isolated as described in Example 1 and grown in the presence of radiolabelled glucose. The follicles were given 2 days below that in Example 1 incubated conditions.

At the end of the culture period, the lipids as described in Example 1 described, extracted.

The results clearly showed that the majority of the labeled ten types of molecules (in decreasing order of the amount of ra  dioactive labeling) was as follows: 18MEA, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Examples 4 and 5

The following preparations explain shampoo compositions the invention.

The shampoos of Examples 4 and 5 were both opaque fluids with a viscosity of 4000 to 6000 cps and a pH of 4.5 to 5.

Examples 6 and 7

The following preparations explain further shampoo compositions tongues of the invention.

The shampoos of Examples 6 and 7 were liquids with a viscosity of 3500 to 5000 cps and a pH of 4.5 to 5. Example 6 was cloudy and Example 7 was clear.

The shampoos of Examples 4 to 7 all imparted the hair excellent gloss and smoothness.

Examples 8 and 9

The following preparations explain after washing hair conditioning compositions of the invention.

The conditioner of Example 8 had a pH of 4.5 to 5.0 and that of Example 9 had a pH of 3.0 to 3.5. Both were opaque liquids with a viscose from 7,000 to 11,000 cps.

Both conditioners conveyed the shampooed hair excellent gloss and smoothness.

Claims (12)

1. A hair treatment composition for supplying the hair follicle precursor of hair integral lipid fatty acids comprising

• (i) a first fatty acid precursor which is an amino acid selected from leucine, isoleucine, methionine and valine and mixtures thereof, the precursor in a proportion of 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, and from 20 to 100% by weight, based on the total weight of the amino acids present in the composition, is present,
• (ii) 0.01 to 20% by weight of a second fatty acid precursor selected from sugars, mono-, di- and tricarboxylic acids and salts thereof, the second fatty acid precursor being able to release units with 2 or 3 carbon atoms for the fatty acid chain extension,
• (iii) at least one surfactant selected from anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and cationic surfactants and mixtures thereof.

2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that (i) is isoleucine. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or claim 2, characterized characterized in that (ii) is glucose. 4. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, since characterized in that the amount of amino acid (i) 0.01% to 20% by weight of the composition.   5. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 4, since characterized in that the amount of donor for 2 Carbon atoms (ii) 0.01 to 20 wt .-% of the total setting is. 6. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 5, since characterized in that the ratio of (i) to (ii) is in the range from 10: 1 to 1:10. 7. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, since characterized in that it is used as a shampoo composition is formulated with at least one surfactant present is in a total amount of 0.1 to 50 wt .-% Zu composition. 8. The composition according to claim 7, characterized in that that they continue to have a polymeric cationic condition contains compound and / or a silicone. 9. Composition according to one of claims 1 to 6, since characterized by being a hair conditioner is formulated, the at least one surfactant is a cationic surfactant that is present in a total amount of 0.1 to 10% by weight of the composition is present. 10. The composition according to claim 9, characterized in that that it still contains fatty alcohol. 11. Use of a composition according to one of the claims che 1 to 10 to at least one of the following surfaces to improve the properties of the hair fiber: shine, Smoothness, combability, softness and integrity of the Cuti cula.   12. Use of (i) or (ii) as a forerunner of integra len lipid fatty acids of the hair in a hair treatment composition to include at least one of the following waiters to improve the surface properties of the hair fiber: shine, Smoothness, combability, softness and integrity of the Cuti cula.