DE19600216B4 - Blondiermittel - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition for bleaching human hair based on at least one solid peroxo compound and at least one solid alkali carrier, characterized in that it is present as a powder and 4-20% by weight of an ether of the general formula (I) XOY (I) in the X and Y independently of one another are linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups having in each case 4 to 18 carbon atoms or cycloalkyl groups, alkylcycloalkyl groups, alkoxycycloalkyl groups or cycloalkyl-alkyl groups each having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the melting point of the ether is below 60 ° C contains.

Description

The The invention relates to a hair bleaching agent for human hair, which in Powder form is present.

The change The shape and color of the hair represents an important area of the hair This can change the appearance of the hair both current fashion trends as well as the individual wishes adapted to the individual person become. It can Perming and other hair shape changing procedures almost independent of Type of hair to be treated to be used. In contrast, dyeing and in particular bleaching method to certain initial hair colors limited. So are suitable for lightening procedures, the so-called Blondierverfahren, essentially only dark blond or lighter hair. The basics of the Blondierverfahren are known in the art and can in relevant Monographs, z. By Kh. Schrader, basics and recipes Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1989, Dr. med. Alfred Hüthig Verlag, Heidelberg, or W. Umbach (ed.), Cosmetics, 2nd edition, 1995, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, New York, can be read.

So become common solid or paste-form preparations with solid oxidizing agents mixed with a dilute hydrogen peroxide solution immediately before use. This mixture is then applied to the hair and after a rinsed out certain exposure time again.

The preparations which are mixed with a hydrogen peroxide solution before use, are referred to hereinafter as "Blondiermittel" or "Blondierpulver". All listed Unless otherwise stated, quantities are exclusive these preparations.

Neither the pasty ones still the powdery Bleaching agents that are on the market today may be considered optimal become. While the Blondierwirkung on the hair can be described as satisfactory can, there are still a number of disadvantages and problems both in the manufacture and in the handling of these agents. For pasty Agents that are highly viscous for stability reasons can be adjusted especially the dosage and the mixing behavior in the hydrogen peroxide solution yet do not satisfy. For powdered Means are the dust behavior, both in the packaging as well as in the application, as well as the mixing behavior at the center of the improvement efforts during the application.

In the EP 0 560 088 B1 For example, it has been proposed to improve the dusting behavior of blonding powders by adding oils or liquid waxes.

It was now surprisingly found that Blondierpulver with comparable dust behavior, very good shelf life and other advantageous properties, when these powders certain Contain substances from the group of ethers. This is special therefore surprising, because many of these ethers, and even preferred according to the invention, are themselves relative unstable opposite Oxidizing agents apply.

The present invention therefore provides means for bleaching human hair based on at least one solid peroxo compound and at least one solid alkali carrier, characterized in that they are present as a powder and 4-20 wt .-% of an ether of the general formula (I), XOY (I) X and Y independently of one another are linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups each having 4 to 18 carbon atoms or cycloalkyl groups, alkylcycloalkyl groups, alkoxycycloalkyl groups or cycloalkyl-alkyl groups each having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the Melting point of the ether is below 60 ° C, contained.

The Bleaching agent according to the invention contain as the first compelling component a solid peroxo compound. The selection of this peroxo compound is subject in principle no restrictions; usual, peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, Potassium peroxydisulfate, sodium peroxydisulfate, ammonium persulfate, Potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate, percarbonates such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides such as barium peroxide and perborates, Urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, according to the invention are the inorganic Compounds preferred. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular Combinations of at least two peroxydisulfates.

The Peroxo compounds are preferred in the bleaching compositions according to the invention in quantities of 20-80 Wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 40-70 wt .-% contained.

When further obligatory component contain the bleaching according to the invention an alkalizing agent used to adjust the alkaline pH the application mixture is used. According to the invention, those skilled in the art also for blonding agent known, usual Alkalizing agents such as ammonium, alkali metal and alkaline earth metal hydroxides, carbonates, bicarbonates, hydroxycarbonates, silicates, in particular Metasilicates, and alkali phosphates are used. In a preferred embodiment contain the blonding powder according to the invention at least two different alkalizing agents. It can mixtures for example, from a metasilicate and a hydroxycarbonate be preferred.

The Bleaching agent according to the invention contain alkalizing agents, preferably in amounts of 10-30% by weight, especially 15-25 Weight .-%.

Essential to the invention is the third obligatory component of Blondierpulver, the ether of formula (I). Particularly suitable according to the invention within this group are those ethers in which X and Y independently of one another are linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups each having 4 to 18 carbon atoms. Such ethers are, for example, di-n-octyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether. Particular preference is given to those ethers in which X and Y independently of one another represent linear saturated alkyl groups having 6 to 14 carbon atoms. A according to the invention particularly preferred ether is di-n-octyl ether, which is commercially available under the name Cetiol OE ^®.

The Bleaching agent according to the invention contain the ethers of formula (I) preferably in an amount of 5-15 wt .-%.

Farther It has proved to be advantageous if the Blondiermittel invention nonionic surfactant Contain substances. In this case, such surfactants, the one Have HLB value of 5.0 and greater, prefers. For the definition of the HLB value is expressly based on the statements in Hugo Janistyn, Handbuch der Kosmetika und Riechstoffe, III. Tape: The body care products, 2nd edition, dr. Alfred Huthig Verlag Heidelberg, 1973, pages 68-78 and Hugo Janistyn, paperback the modern perfumery and Cosmetics, 4th Edition, Scientific Publishing Company M.B.H. Stuttgart, 1974, pages 466-474, and the cited therein Original works.

Especially Preferred nonionic surfactant Substances are substances because of the ease of processing, commercially available as solids or liquids in pure form. The Definition for Purity does not refer to chemical in this context pure connections. Rather, especially when it comes to natural products, mixtures various homologs are used, for example, with different alkyl chain length, as obtained with products based on natural fats and oils become. Even with alkoxylated products usually mixtures are different Allcoxylierungsgrade ago. The term purity refers to this Rather, the fact that the chosen substances are preferred free of solvents, Adjusting agents and other accompanying substances should be.

• – alkoxylierte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22, insbesondere 10 bis 16, Kohlenstoffatomen in der Fettalkylgruppe und 1 bis 30, insbesondere 1 bis 15, Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten. Bevorzugte Fettalkylgruppen sind beispielsweise Lauryl-, Myristyl-, Cetyl-, aber auch Stearyl-, Isostearyl- und Oleylgruppen. Besonders bevorzugte Verbindungen dieser Klasse sind beispielsweise Laurylalkohol mit 2 bis 4 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten, Oleyl- und Cetylalkohol mit jeweils 5 bis 10 Ethylenoxideinheiten, Cetyl- und Stearylalkohol sowie deren Mischungen mit 10 bis 30 Ethylenoxideinheiten sowie das Handelsprodukt Aethoxal^®B (Henkel), ein Laurylalkohol mit jeweils 5 Ethylenoxid- und Propylenoxideinheiten. Neben den üblichen alkoxylierten Fettalkoholen können auch sogenannte „endgruppenverschlossene" Verbindungen erfindungsgemäß eingesetzt werden. Bei diesen Verbindungen weist die Alkoxygruppe am Ende keine OH-Gruppe auf, sondern ist in Form eines Ethers, insbesondere eines C1-C4-Alkyl-Ethers, „verschlossen". Ein Beispiel für eine solche Verbindung ist das Handelsprodukt Dehypon^®LT 054, ein C_12-18-Fettalkoholol + 4,5 Ethylenoxidbutylether.
• – alkoxylierte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22, insbesondere 10 bis 16, Kohlenstoffatomen in der Fettsäuregruppe und 1 bis 30, insbesondere 1 bis 15, Ethylenoxidundloder Propylenoxid-Einheiten. Bevorzugte Fettsäuren sind beispielsweise Laurin-, Myristin-, Palmitin-, Stearin-, Isostearin- und Ölsäure.
• – alkoxylierte, bevorzugt propoxylierte und insbesondere ethoxylierte, Mono-, Di- und Triglycertde. Beispiele für bevorzugte Verbindungen sind Glycerinmonolaurat + 20 Ethylenoxid und Glycerinmonostearat + 20 Ethylenoxid.
• – Polyglycerinester und alkoxylierte Polyglycerinester. Bevorzugte Verbindungen dieser Klasse sind beispielsweise Poly(3)glycerindiisostearat (Handelsprodukt: Lameform^®TGI (Henkel)) und Poly(2)glycerinpolyhydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt: Dehymuls^®PGPH (Henkel)).
• – Sorbitan-Fettsäweester und alkoxylierte Sorbitan- Fettsäweester wie beispielsweise Sorbitanmonolaurat und Sorbitanmonolaurat + 20 Ethylenoxid (EO).
• – Alkylphenole und Alkylphenolalkoxylate mit 6 bis 21, insbesondere 6 bis 15, Kohlenstoffatomen in der Allcylkette und 0 bis 30 Ethylenoxid- und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten. Bevorzugte Vertreter dieser Klasse sind beipielsweise Nonylphenol + 4 EO, Nonylphenol + 9 EO, Octylphenol + 3 EO und Octylphenol + 8 EO.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are

• - Alkoxylated fatty alcohols having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 16, carbon atoms in the fatty alkyl group and 1 to 30, in particular 1 to 15, ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units. Preferred fatty alkyl groups are, for example, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl, but also stearyl, isostearyl and oleyl groups. Particularly preferred compounds of this class are, for example, lauryl alcohol with 2 to 4 ethylene oxide units, oleyl and cetyl alcohol with 5 to 10 ethylene oxide, cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol and mixtures thereof with 10 to 30 ethylene oxide units and the commercial product Aethoxal ^® B (Henkel), a Lauryl alcohol with 5 ethylene oxide and 3 propylene oxide units. In addition to the usual alkoxylated fatty alcohols, it is also possible to use so-called "end-capped" compounds according to the invention In these compounds, the alkoxy group has no OH group at the end but is "closed" in the form of an ether, in particular a C 1 -C 4 -alkyl ether. , An example of such a compound is the commercially available product ^® Dehypon LT 054, a C _12-18 + 4.5 -Fettalkoholol Ethylenoxidbutylether.
• - alkoxylated fatty acids having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 16, carbon atoms in the fatty acid group and 1 to 30, in particular 1 to 15, ethylene oxideundloder propylene oxide units. Preferred fatty acids are, for example, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic and oleic acids.
• - alkoxylated, preferably propoxylated and in particular ethoxylated, mono-, di- and triglycerides. Examples of preferred compounds are glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide.
• Polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters. Preferred compounds of this class are for example poly (3) glycerol diisostearate (commercial product: Lameform ^® TGI (Henkel)) and poly (2) glycerinpolyhydroxystearat (commercial product: Dehymuls ^® PGPH (Henkel)).
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters such as sorbitan monolaurate and sorbitan monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide (EO).
• Alkylphenols and alkylphenol alkoxylates having 6 to 21, in particular 6 to 15, carbon atoms in the allcyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units. Preferred representatives of this class are, for example, nonylphenol + 4 EO, nonylphenol + 9 EO, octylphenol + 3 EO and octylphenol + 8 EO.

Especially preferred classes of nonionic surfactants the alkoxylated fatty alcohols, the alkoxylated fatty acids as well the alkylphenols and alkylphenol alkoxylates.

When Particularly advantageous agents according to the invention have proven, the nonionic grenzflächenaknve Substances in quantities of 1-5 Wt .-% included.

Farther can the bleaching compositions according to the invention all known in such preparations active ingredients, additives and excipients contain. In many cases contain the colorants at least one surfactant, wherein in principle both anionic and zwitterionic, ampholytic, nonionic and cationic surfactants suitable are. In many cases However, it has proved to be advantageous, the surfactants from anionic, canonical or nonionic surfactants. Anionic surfactants can do this be particularly preferred.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, ether carboxylic acid salts having 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule such as C ₁₂ H ₂₅ - (C ₂ H ₄ O) ₆ -CH ₂ -COONa and in particular salts of saturated and especially unsaturated C8-C22 carboxylic acids such as oleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and palmitic acid.

These anionic surfactants should preferably be in solid, in particular powder form available. Very particularly preferred are at room temperature solid soaps, in particular sodium stearate. These are preferred in amounts of 5 to 20 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 15 wt .-%, before.

When Nonionic surfactants are particularly suitable C8-C22 alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs. Especially the nonethoxylated compounds, which are also commercially available in powder form, have proven to be particularly suitable.

Examples for the in the hair treatment compositions according to the invention Usable cationic surfactants are especially quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, Dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Further usable according to the invention cationic surfactants are the quaternized protein hydrolysates represents.

Alkylamidoamines, in particular fatty acid amidoamines, such as the stearylamidopropyldimethylamine obtainable under the name Tega ^Amid® S 18, are distinguished, in addition to a good conditioning effect, especially by their good biodegradability.

Also very good biodegradability are quaternary Esterverbindungen, so-called "esterquats", such as the Distearoylethylhydroxyethylammoniummethosulfat obtainable under the name Dehyquart® ^® F 75 in admixture with cetearyl.

at the compounds used as surfactants Can alkyl groups each are uniform substances. However, it is usually preferred in the preparation of these substances of native plant or animal raw materials, so that one substance mixtures with receives different, dependent on the particular raw alkyl chain lengths.

• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpynolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere und Polysiloxane,
• – kationische Polymere wie quaternisierte Celluloseether und andere, als Feststoff stabile bzw. im Handel erhältliche Verbindungen,
• – zwitterionische und amphotere Polymere, die als Feststoffe stabil bzw. bevorzugt als Handelsprodukte erhältlich sind,
• – anionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Polyacrylsäuren, vernetzte Polyacrylsäuren und Vinylacetat/Crotonsäure-Copolymere, sofern diese als Feststoffe stabil bzw. bevorzugt im Handel erhältlich sind,
• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylallcohol,
• – Strukturanten wie Glucose, Maleinsäure und Milchsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline, sowie Silikonöle
• – Proteinhydrolysate, insbesondere Elastin-, Kollagen-, Keratin-, Milcheiweiß-, Sojaprotein- und Weizenproteinhydrolysate, deren Kondensationsprodukte mit Fettsäuren sowie quaternisierte Proteinhydrolysate,
• – Parfümöle, Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – Farbstoffe zum Einfärben der Zubereitungen,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Panthenol, Pantothensäure, Allantoin, Pyrrolidoncarbonsäuren und deren Salze,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Fette und Wachse wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs, Paraffine, Fettalkohole und Fettsäweester,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA und Phosphorsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Nonionic polymers such as vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers and polysiloxanes,
• Cationic polymers such as quaternized cellulose ethers and other solid-stable or commercially available compounds,
• Zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, which are stable as solids or preferably available as commercial products,
• Anionic polymers such as, for example, polyacrylic acids, crosslinked polyacrylic acids and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, if these are stable or preferably commercially available as solids,
• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. Polyvinyl alcohol,
• - structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid,
• Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins, and silicone oils
• Protein hydrolysates, in particular elastin, collagen, keratin, milk protein, soy protein and wheat protein hydrolysates, their condensation products with fatty acids and quaternized protein hydrolysates,
• Perfume oils, dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• Dyes for coloring the preparations,
• - active substances such as panthenol, pantothenic acid, allantoin, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acids and their salts,
• - cholesterol,
• Fats and waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, fatty alcohols and fatty acid esters,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• - complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA and phosphoric acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,

The Selection of these other substances will be the skilled person according to the desired Meet properties of the agents.

There has been shown on the presence in particular of larger amounts of oils and liquid Waxes, such as paraffin oil, can be dispensed with, can inventive agent, especially if the hair should not be overly weighted, in a preferred embodiment without these oils and liquid Waxes are made up. It should be clarified that the term oils the well-known greasy and synthetic oils, but not including perfume oils that Of course can be used in small quantities as fragrances.

The Preparation of the Blondiermittel invention can according to the usual, The method known to those skilled in the art.

One preferred method is the inorganic, as a solid present components, optionally after mixing z. In a Drais mixer, to submit and with the surface-active To spray means. This is preferably done at room temperature, d. H. at temperatures below about 30 ° C; only if the chosen dust-binding components at these temperatures not as a liquid are present, one is elevated Apply temperatures.

One another manufacturing process for the bleaching compositions according to the invention is the mixing of all components and the subsequent treatment, preferably at elevated Temperatures, in a fluidized bed.

Finally is it also possible the bleaching compositions according to the invention by grinding all components in a ball mill, one Ring rolling mill or in particular a spindle mill manufacture.

For the application the agents according to the invention on the hair become the powdery Bleaching agent immediately before application with a hydrogen peroxide solution mixed. The concentration of this hydrogen peroxide solution is on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired Effect determined; usually 6- to 12-percent solutions in Water used. The proportions Blondierpulver and hydrogen peroxide solution are usually in the range 1: 1 to 1: 2, with an excess of hydrogen peroxide solution in particular then chosen if not too pronounced Blondierwirkung desired is.

Examples

Two mixtures were prepared, the composition of which (in g) are given in Table 1:

Both agents were absolutely dust-free and resulted in mixing with H ₂ O ₂ solutions within a short time homogeneous mixtures.

Claims (8)

Composition for bleaching human hair based on at least one solid peroxo compound and at least one solid alkali carrier, characterized in that it is present as a powder and 4-20% by weight of an ether of the general formula (I) XOY (I) in the X and Y independently of one another are linear and branched, saturated and mono- or polyunsaturated alkyl groups having in each case 4 to 18 carbon atoms or cycloalkyl groups, alkylcycloalkyl groups, alkoxycycloalkyl groups or cycloalkyl-alkyl groups each having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, with the proviso that the melting point of the ether is below 60 ° C contains. Agent according to claim 1, characterized in that it has a inorganic solid peroxo compound contains. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that X and Y independent stand each other for linear saturated Alkyl groups with 6 to 14 carbon atoms. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized that the Ether of the formula (I) is contained in an amount of 5-15 wt.%. Agent according to one of Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it additionally contains a nonionic surfactant selected from among: - alkoxylated fatty alcohols and fatty acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms and 1 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units containing an alkyl end group, in particular a Methyl group, at the end of Alkoxy group chain, - alkoxylated mono-, di- and triglycerides, - polyglycerol esters and alkoxylated polyglycerol esters, - sorbitan fatty acid esters and alkoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters, - alkylphenol alkoxylates having 6 to 21 carbon atoms in the alkyl chain and 0 to 30 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide Units contains Agent according to claim 5, characterized in that the nonionic surfactants Substance in quantities of 1-5 Wt .-%, is. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized that it at room temperature solid soaps, especially sodium stearate, in Quantities of 5-20 Wt .-%, in particular 10-15 Wt .-%, based on the total powder contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized that it free of oils and liquid waxing is, except perfume oils are.