DE10325767A1 - Finely dispersed, non-transparent cosmetic and/or dermatological emulsions, especially for light protection, obtained by combining and pre-emulsifying phases then homogenizing under high pressure - Google Patents

Abstract

Production of finely dispersed (but non-transparent) cosmetic and/or dermatological preparations (A) including an aqueous phase and an oil phase is claimed, where: (a) the number average droplet size of the internal phase of the emulsion is 100-500 (preferably 120-300) nm; and (b) the phases are combined and pre-emulsified, then homogenized under a pressure of 30-2000 (preferably 1100-1500) bars. An independent claim is included for the preparations (A) obtained by the process.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic and / or dermatological Preparations and a process for their preparation. In particular it concerns O / W microemulsions and hydrodispersions. these can additionally contain pigments, powders and UV filters.

Under Emulsions are generally understood to be heterogeneous systems that are made up of two liquids which cannot be mixed with each other or only to a limited extent consist of the usual are called phases. In an emulsion is one of the two liquids in the form of the finest droplets in the other liquid dispersed.

are the two liquids Water and oil and lie oil droplets fine distributed in water before, it is an oil-in-water emulsion (O / W emulsion, e.g. milk). The basic character of an O / W emulsion is shaped by the water. With a water-in-oil emulsion (W / O emulsion, e.g. butter) is the reverse principle, the basic character is determined here by the oil.

In simple emulsions are finely dispersed in one phase, from an emulsifier shell enclosed droplets the second phase (water droplets in W / O or lipid vesicles in O / W emulsions). In a multiple Emulsions (second degree), however, are finer in such droplets disperse droplets emulsified in the first phase. Even in these droplets you can still fine disperse droplets present (third degree multiple emulsion) and so on.

In order to achieve stability of the emulsion, emulsifiers are generally added which reduce the interfacial tension between the phases so that high internal surfaces and thus small droplet sizes can be achieved. The polarity of the emulsifier plays an important role here. Non-ionic emulsifiers can be described by the HLB value (HLB = hydrophilic-lipophilic balance). The definition for the HLB value for polyol fatty acid esters is given by the formula I. HLB = 20 · (1 - S / A)

Formula II applies to a group of emulsifiers whose hydrophilic portion consists only of ethylene oxide units HLB = E / 5 in which
S = saponification number of the ester,
A = acid number of the recovered acid
E = mass fraction of ethylene oxide (in%) in the total molecule
mean.

emulsifiers with HLB values of 6-8 are generally W / O emulsifiers with HLB values of 8-18 are generally O / W emulsifiers.

Literature: "Cosmetics - development, Production and use of cosmetic products "; W. Umbach (ed.), Georg Thieme Verlag 1988th

Hydrophilic Emulsifiers (with high HLB values) are usually O / W emulsifiers. Accordingly hydrophobic or lipophilic emulsifiers (with low HLB values) usually W / O emulsifiers.

The transparency and viscosity of an emulsion depend on the droplet size of the emulsions. The droplet diameters of the usual “simple”, ie non-multiple emulsions are in the range from approx. 1 μm to approx. 50 μm. Such emulsions are colored milky white without further coloring additives. Finer “macroemulsions” whose droplet diameters are in the range of approx. 500 nm to approx. 1 μm, are again bluish white and opaque, without any coloring additives. Such “macroemulsions” usually have a high viscosity. The droplet diameter of microemulsions, on the other hand, is in the range from about 10 ⁻² μm to about 0.5 μm. Microemulsions are translucent or bluish white and mostly of low viscosity. The advantage of microemulsions is that in the disperse phase Active substances can be present in a much finer disperse than in the disperse phase of "macroemulsions". The viscosity of many O / W type microemulsions is comparable to that of water. Micellar and molecular solutions with particle diameters smaller than approx. 10 ^–2 μm, which however are no longer to be regarded as real emulsions, is reserved to appear clear and transparent.

It is known to certain hydrophilic emulsifiers such as typically ethylene glycol dialkyl ether, for example Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl stearyl ether (ceteareth-20) with increasing Temperature their solubility behavior of water soluble change to fat soluble. The Temperature range in which the emulsifiers have changed their solubility, is called phase inversion temperature range (PIT). This attribute is the basis for a manufacturing process for Emulsions, the so-called PIT technique. The appearance used that emulsifier stabilized O / W emulsions when exceeded the phase inversion temperature is usually a reversible phase inversion suffer, that is, the inner phase becomes the outer. So you get first a W / O emulsion. cools the inverted emulsion below the phase inversion temperature off, so can O / W emulsions with particularly small droplet sizes are created.

On analogous process, the PET technique uses the phenomenon that the HLB value of the emulsifiers used depends on the pH. By modifying the So pH will a corresponding phase inversion is generated so that likewise Emulsions made with small droplet sizes can be.

The phase inversion range can be represented mathematically as a point set within the rectilinear coordinate system Σ, which is formed by the quantities temperature, pH and concentration of a suitable emulsifier or a mixture of emulsifiers in the preparation, according to: Σ = {O, θ, a, m}, With
O - coordinate origin
θ - temperature
a - pH
m - concentration

Strictly speaking, of course, the contribution m _{i of} each individual emulsifier to the overall function must be taken into account in a multi-component emulsifier system, which in relation to a relationship with an i-component emulsifier system Σ = {O, θ, a, m 1 , m 2 , ..., m i } leads.

Φ zu einer Koordinate K₂ ∊ Φ Phaseninversion eintritt, wie in 1 beschrieben. Als variable Koordinaten in 1 wurden Temperatur und pH-Wert eines gegebenen Gemisches unter Konstanthaltung der Konzentration von m, – m; angegeben. Beim Übergang von K₁ nach K₂ wird lediglich die Temperatur erhöht.The phase inversion range Φ represents in the mathematical sense a coherent area or a plurality of coherent areas within the coordinate system Σ. Φ represents the total set of coordinate points K (θ, a, m ₁ , m ₂ , ..., m _i ), which according to the invention Determine mixtures of water and oil phase, i emulsifiers according to the invention of the concentration m _i at the temperature θ and the pH a, and for which applies that when changing from a coordinate K ₁

Φ to a coordinate K ₂ ∊ Φ phase inversion occurs, as in 1 described. As variable coordinates in 1 were the temperature and pH of a given mixture kept constant at a concentration of m, - m; specified. During the transition from K ₁ to K ₂ , only the temperature is increased.

Φ zurück, können erfindungsgemäß andere Emulsionstypen erhalten werden, als der Stand der Technik hätte erwarten lassen. Beispielsweise wird durch Erhöhen der Temperatur eines erfindungsgemäßen Gemisches aus Wasser- und Ölphase, i erfindungsgemäßen Emulgatoren der Konzentrationen mi, wobei der pH-Wert a konstant bleibt, ausgehend von einer Temperatur welche für Phaseninversion zu niedrig ist (Bedingungen also, wo eine herkömmliche O/W-Emulsion vorläge, welche auch beim Abkühlen auf Raumtemperatur eine solche bliebe), erwärmt wird, so daß Phaseninversion eintritt, wird nach Abkühlen, z.B. auf Raumtemperatur, keine herkömmliche O/W-Emulsion erhalten, sondern eine erfindungsgemäße O/W-Mikroemulsion.Under the conditions according to the invention, this process is not necessarily reversible, ie, the system returns from the coordinate K ₂ ∊ Φ back to the coordinate K1

Φ back, other types of emulsion can be obtained according to the invention than the state of the art would have expected. For example, by increasing the temperature of a mixture of water and oil phase according to the invention, i emulsifiers of the concentrations mi according to the invention, the pH value a remaining constant, starting from a temperature which is too low for phase inversion (conditions where a conventional O / W emulsion was present, which would remain so even when cooling to room temperature), so that phase inversion occurs, after cooling, for example to room temperature, no conventional O / W emulsion is obtained, but an O / W microemulsion according to the invention.

It is irrelevant whether the phase inversion area of a given system represents a single contiguous (i + 2) -dimensional area or consists of several contiguous but separate such areas, i.e. several phase inversion areas of a given system System accordingly. In the context of the disclosure presented herewith, a phase inversion region is therefore always referred to in general terms, even when two or more such regions are separated from one another.

emulsifiers, whose HLB value depends on the temperature is by increasing or lowering the temperature the lipophilicity increases or decreases in the sense of the present invention are, for example, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate, Cetyldimethicone copolyol, glycol distearate, glycol dilaurate, diethylene glycol dilaurate, Sorbitan trioleate, glycol oleate, glyceryl dilaurate, sorbitan tristearate, Propylene glycol stearate, propylene glycol laurate, propylene glycol distearate, Sucrose distearate, PEG-3 Castor Oil, pentaerythrityl monostearate, Pentaerythritylsesquioleate, glyceryl oleate, glyceryl stearate, propylene glycol stearate, Glyceryl diisostearate, pentaerythrityl monooleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate, glyceryl caprate, palm glycerides, glyceryl stearate, Cholesterol, lanolin, lanolin alcohols, glyceryl oleate (with 40% Monoesters), polyglyceryl-2-sesquiisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-sesquioleate, PEG-20 sorbitan beeswax, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan isostearate, trioleyl phosphate, Glyceryl Stearate (and) Ceteareth-20 (Teginacid from Th. Goldschmidt), Sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Steareth-2, Oleth-2, Cetyl Alcohol (and) Ceteareth-30 (emulsifier E 2209 by Th. Goldschmidt), PEG-5 Soya Sterol, PEG-6 Sorbitan Beeswax, Ceteth-2, glyceryl stearate SE, methyl glucose sesquistearate, PEG-10 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, Sucrose Distearate, Oleth-3, Sorbitan Palmitate, PEG-22 / dodecyl glycol copolymer, polyglyceryl-2-PEG-4 stearate, Laneth-5, Ceteth-3, Laureth-3, Ceteareth-3, Stearyl Alcohol (and) Stearath-7 (and) Steareth-10 (Emulsifier E-2155 from Th. Goldschmidt), Oleth-5, Sorbitan laurate, Laureth-4, PEG-4 Laurate, Polysorbate 61, Polysorbate 81, Beheneth-10, polysorbate 65, polysorbate 80, Laneth-10, triceteareth-4-phosphate, Triceteareth-4 Phosphate (and) Sodium C14-17 Alkyl Sec Sulfonate (Hostacerin CG from Hoechst), PEG-8 stearate, glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165 from ICI), polysorbate 85, trilaureth-4 phosphate, PEG-25 glyceryl trioleate, Oleth-10, Steareth-10, Ceteth-10, PEG-35 Castor Oil, Sucrose Stearate, PEG-8 Oleate, Trioleth-8 Phosphate, PEG-40 Sorbitan lanolate, PEG-15 glyceryl ricinoleate, choleth-24 (and) ceteth-24 (Solulan C-24 from Amerchol), C12-15 Pareth-12, PEG-20 glyceryl isostearate, Polysorbate 60, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-16 Soya Sterol, PEG-20 Glyceryl oleate, PEG-20 stearate, polysorbate 80, PEG-20 methylglucose sesquistearate, PEG-30 glyceryl isostearate, PEG-20 glyceryl laurate, ceteth-20, ceteareth-25, PEG-30 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl stearate, polysorbate 20, Laureth-23, PEG-40 stearate, PEG-30 glyceryl laurate, PEG-50 stearate, PEG-100 stearate, PEG-150 laurate, polyglyceryl-3-methylglucose distearate, ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-20 and Steareth-21.

Further the emulsifier or emulsifiers are preferably selected from the group of fatty acids which in whole or in part with usual Alkalis (such as sodium and potassium hydroxide, sodium and potassium carbonate and mono- and triethanolamine) are neutralized. Particularly advantageous are, for example, stearic acid and stearates, isostearic acid and isostearates, palmitic acid and palmitates and myristic acid and myristates.

It is about it also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, the or to choose the emulsifiers from the group of fatty alcohols, which ones a chain length of more than 8 carbon atoms. Are particularly preferred e.g. Cetyl, stearyl, myristyl and behenyl alcohol.

According to the invention particularly The polyethoxylated or polypropoxylated used are advantageous or polyethoxylated and polypropoxylated O / W emulsifiers selected from the group of substances with HLB values of 11-18, very particularly advantageous with with HLB values of 14.5–15.5, provided the O / W emulsifiers are saturated Have radicals R and R '. Assign the O / W emulsifiers unsaturated Residues R and / or R ', or if there are isoalkyl derivatives, the preferred HLB value can be such emulsifiers are also lower or higher.

It is advantageous, the fatty alcohol ethoxylates from the group of ethoxylated Stearyl alcohols, cetyl alcohols, cetylstearyl alcohols (cetearyl alcohols) to choose.

As ethoxylated alkyl ether carboxylic acid or their salt can advantageously the sodium laureth-11 carboxylate be used.

As Alkyl ether sulfate can advantageously use sodium laureth 1-4 sulfate become.

As ethoxylated cholesterol derivative can advantageously be polyethylene glycol (30) cholesteryl ether be used. Polyethylene glycol (25) soyasterol also has proven.

Polyethylene glycol (60) evening primrose glycerides can advantageously be used as ethoxylated triglycerides can be used (Evening Primrose = evening primrose).

Farther is advantageous, the polyethylene glycol glycerol fatty acid esters from the group polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (21) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (22) glyceryl laurate, polyethylene glycol (23) glyceryl laurate, Polyethylene glycol (6) glyceryl caprate / caprinate, polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl oleate, Polyethylene glycol (20) glyceryl isostearate, polyethylene glycol (18) glyceryl oleate / cocoat to choose.

It is also cheap, the sorbitan esters from the group consisting of polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monolaurate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monostearate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monoisostearate, polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monopalmitate, Polyethylene glycol (20) sorbitan monooleate to choose.

As particularly advantageous, additional W / O emulsifiers can Glyceryl monostearate, glyceryl monoisostearate, glyceryl monomyristate, Glyceryl monooleate, diglyceryl monostearate, diglyceryl monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2-dipolyhydroxystearate, Propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, propylene glycol monocaprylate, Propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monoisostearate, sorbitan monolaurate, Sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monoisooleate, sucrose distearate, Cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, Isobehenyl alcohol, selachyl alcohol, chimyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (Steareth-2), glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate be used.

It the emulsifier content is advantageous in the sense of the present invention (one or more compounds) from the range of 0.5% by weight up to 10% by weight.

The List of said emulsifiers for the purposes of the present invention can be used should go without saying not be limiting.

emulsifier-free Preparations based on so-called hydrodispersions have been available since some time for accessible to the consumer. Hydrodispersions are dispersions of a liquid, semi-solid or solid inner (discontinuous) lipid phase in an outer aqueous (continuous) Phase. Hydrodispersions in the sense of the invention are finely dispersed Preparations with an emulsifier content of less than 0.5% by weight.

in the Contrast to O / W emulsions, which are characterized by a similar Distinct phase arrangement, but are essentially hydrodispersions free of emulsifiers. Hydrodispersions, like the rest of emulsions metastable systems, and are inclined to a state of two coherent discrete To pass phases. In emulsions, the choice of a suitable emulsifier prevents that Phase separation.

at Hydrodispersions of a liquid Lipid phase in an external aqueous phase can the stability Such a system can be ensured, for example, that in the aqueous phase a gel scaffold is built up in which the lipid droplets are stably suspended.

Even though compared to this type of formulation the conventional There are formulations that offer the advantage of being free of emulsifiers on the other hand, some points that need improvement. However, high stabilities can can only be guaranteed by high levels of thickeners. It suffers the cosmetic feel, the skin feeling is considered less by the user pleasantly described. In the case of sunscreen formulations for one good sun protection effect of such preparations is comparatively high concentration of UV filters necessary. In addition, such preparations feel in the Compared to emulsions and light protection oils sticky.

On Another disadvantage of hydrodispersions, especially those that Containing acrylates as gelling agents is the disadvantageous abrasion, especially after bathing, where the hydrogel layer applied to the skin light and unsightly Way ("roll formation") is removed.

An important step in the production of emulsions and hydrodispersions is the drop size reduction. The droplet size distribution is generally standardized. This can be done in homogenizers by introducing energy into the disperse system in question. Depending on the design of the homogenizer, different specific energy inputs can be realized in the material to be homogenized. Homogenizers are usually used, which are constructed according to the rotor-stator principle. Higher energy inputs can be achieved through high pressure homogenization. The fluid to be homogenized is compressed with a high-pressure pump and then through a special homogenizing valve, such as in the document EP810025 described, relaxed. The pressure drop across the ho Mogenizing valve is usually 30 to 1500 bar, exceptionally up to 2000 bar. During the expansion process, high accelerations and turbulences occur within the fluid, which cause the droplets to be finely comminuted. Droplet sizes below 1 μm, usually 50 to 200 nm, can be achieved.

The The incorporation of various cosmetic functional substances applies especially with very finely dispersed emulsions such as PIT emulsions and also difficult with hydrodispersions, since pigments, powders, electrolytes, size Amounts of UV filters etc. the stability of the emulsions and hydrodispersions significantly reduce.

The damaging Effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is well known. While Rays with a wavelength, which is smaller than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range) from which Ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere absorbed cause rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple one Sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

As a maximum of the erythema effectiveness of the sunlight becomes the narrower Range around 308 nm specified.

To the Protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known, which are mostly derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, 4-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the Range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important Filter substances available to have, because its rays can also cause damage. So is proven to be UVA radiation to injury of the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue leads to what the skin ages prematurely, and that she as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions you can see. The harmful one Influence of UVB radiation can amplified by UVA radiation become.

The font US 5994414 describes the use of small amounts of certain emulsifiers and high-pressure homogenization in the pressure range 900 to 1100 bar for the production of emulsions of low viscosity, the homogenized emulsion having particle sizes of approximately 0.1 μm. On the other hand, nothing is disclosed about the fact that in particular PIT emulsions with average droplet sizes of 100 to 300 nm can be produced particularly well by high-pressure homogenization at 500 to 1500 bar.

The US 5152923 describes a process for the preparation of emulsions with particle sizes of the oil droplets smaller than 200 nm, which contain triglycerides or fatty acid esters and amphoteric emulsifiers with a weight fraction of 1/10 to 4/10 based on the oil content and which are formed by mixing the ingredients, initially forming a lamellar liquid crystalline phase of the emulsifier in the aqueous phase and subsequent high pressure homogenization to an emulsion is characterized. The mixture of an aqueous phase and a triglyceride or fatty acid ester is stabilized by small amounts of an amphoteric emulsifier and subsequently converted into its final form under high pressure. The fact that emulsions can be produced by high-pressure homogenization without prior formation of lamellar liquid-crystalline phases, that an already existing emulsion is homogenized under high pressure, or that the preparation obtained contains an emulsifier whose HLB value is temperature-dependent, by increasing or decreasing the temperature, increasing lipophilicity. or decreases, however, nothing is revealed.

EP 615741 describes emulsions that contain certain surfactants, nonionic emulsifiers, oil components and water and whose particle size is less than 150 nm. On the other hand, nothing is disclosed about the fact that emulsions which are free from surfactants can be prepared well by high-pressure homogenization.

EP 349150 describes transparent preparations which have a certain content of phospholipid, a certain content of nonionic surface-active substance, oil and water and are produced by certain variants of high-pressure homogenization, for example under a pressure of at least 34.47 bar. On the other hand, nothing is open about the fact that, in particular, emulsions which contain no phospholipids and are characterized by such large mean droplet sizes that they are not transparent (greater than 100 nm) can be produced particularly well by high-pressure homogenization beard.

EP 782881 describes a process for distributing a filler in a disperse system consisting of water and oil by means of high-pressure homogenization and preparations produced thereby with a filler content of 0.1 to 70% by weight. The filler, for example talc or silicate, is incorporated into the emulsion for example in an o / w emulsion by homogenization under high pressure of, for example, 100 to 800 bar. On the other hand, nothing is disclosed about the fact that in particular PIT emulsions with average droplet sizes of 100 to 500 nm can be produced particularly well by high-pressure homogenization at pressures above 1000 bar.

The scriptures EP 1010413 . EP 1010414 . EP 1010415 and EP 1010416 describe various emulsions whose oil droplets have a particle size smaller than 100 nm. However, nothing is disclosed about the fact that it could be advantageous to produce cosmetically particularly elegant emulsions with potty sizes larger than 100 nm, which additionally contain light stabilizers, pigments or self-tanners.

EP 782847 describes O / W emulsions produced by high pressure homogenization, which contain hydrophilic pigments contained in aqueous vesicles and which contain fatty acid esters in the vesicle membrane. On the other hand, nothing is disclosed about the fact that in particular PIT emulsions in which solids are present in the lipid phase can be produced particularly well by high-pressure homogenization.

US 4996004 describes a process for the preparation of emulsions, in which a jet disperser operating, for example, at higher pressures is used to disperse the emulsion. However, nothing is disclosed about the fact that it is advantageous not to carry out the phase inversion in a jet disperser.

EP 1013338 describes O / W emulsions whose oil droplets have a particle size smaller than 100 nm and contains certain proportions of ethoxylated or non-ethoxylated alkyl phosphates. However, nothing is disclosed about the fact that it could be advantageous to produce cosmetically particularly elegant emulsions with potty sizes larger than 100 nm, which additionally contain light stabilizers.

EP 1016453 describes O / W emulsions whose oil droplets have a particle size smaller than 100 nm and contains certain proportions of certain ethoxylated fatty acid esters or fatty acid ethers and certain oils. However, nothing is disclosed about the fact that it could be advantageous to produce cosmetically particularly elegant emulsions with potty sizes larger than 100 nm, which additionally contain light stabilizers.

outgoing of all this, it was the object of the present invention the prejudices of the prevailing opinion in cosmetics and / or dermatological preparations powder materials, pigments, larger quantities lipophilic UV filter, increased Lipid levels with low emulsifier concentrations incorporate. This is considered to be by means of the prior art as unreachable because usually mean droplet sizes the incorporation of all these components increases significantly. This in turn leads to unstable preparations, which are characterized by a tendency to cream distinguish and are hardly accepted by consumers. This is to observe especially when incorporating solids. Along with the increase in droplet sizes there is also a significant change of the optical appearance, there is a cloudiness or the emulsions and hydrodispersions appear white. Can counteract one of the enlargement of the droplet for example through the use of higher amounts of emulsifier, which is true at the same time leads to a considerable deterioration in the feeling on the skin Preparations often have a sticky effect. So the goal was to find a way for long-term stable emulsions with cosmetically elegant properties, especially if possible to produce a transparent appearance with a water-like flow behavior. Such emulsions are additional sprayable. In the case of hydrodispersions, too, there are high application concentrations of powder substances, pigments, lipophilic UV filters or increased amounts of lipids to instabilities, if they should have relatively low viscosities. Because such Preparations contain no significant emulsifier, there is in the viscosity range 0 to 500 mPa s (Haake Visco Tester 02, measurement at 28 ° C) none possibility to stabilize the preparations.

Also the state of the art described above offered no indication of solving the described tasks.

• (a) das Zahlenmittel der Tröpfchengröße der inneren Phase der Emulsion mindestens 100 nm, besonders bevorzugt 120 nm beträgt,
• (b) das Zahlenmittel der Tröpfchengröße der inneren Phase der Emulsion höchstens 500 nm, bevorzugt höchstens 300 nm, besonders bevorzugt höchstens 250 nm beträgt,
• (c) die Phasen vereinigt und voremulgiert werden
• (d) und anschließend einer Homogenisierung unter einem Druck unterworfen werden, (d1) wobei der Druck mindestens 30 bar, bevorzugt 500 bar, besonders bevorzugt 800 bar, ganz besonders bevorzugt 1000 bar, ganz außergewöhnlich bevorzugt 1100 bar und (d2) höchstens 2000, bevorzugt 1500 bar beträgt, sowie Zubereitung erhältlich durch dieses Verfahren, den Nachteilen des Standes der Technik abhelfen.

It has not been foreseen by the person skilled in the art that a method for producing cosmetic and / or dermatological finely dispersed but not transparent preparations is one thing include an oil phase, in which

• (a) the number average droplet size of the inner phase of the emulsion is at least 100 nm, particularly preferably 120 nm,
• (b) the number-average droplet size of the inner phase of the emulsion is at most 500 nm, preferably at most 300 nm, particularly preferably at most 250 nm,
• (c) the phases are combined and pre-emulsified
• (d) and then subjected to homogenization under a pressure, (d1) the pressure being at least 30 bar, preferably 500 bar, particularly preferably 800 bar, very particularly preferably 1000 bar, very particularly preferably 1100 bar and (d2) at most 2000, preferably 1500 bar, as well as preparation obtainable by this method, remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

By the inventive method Is it possible at e.g. constant emulsifier content larger amounts of lipophilic components incorporate. Because of this kind of homogenization the droplets are strong be made smaller. The smaller the droplets to be reached, the longer-term stable the emulsion becomes. Furthermore, the viscosity with smaller droplets less and therefore the sprayability improved. Hence it can e.g. more UV filters are used without reducing the amount of emulsifier elevated needs to be, making a higher one SPF can be achieved. It can several different lipids (or a lipid in high concentrations) be incorporated, which makes the skin feel much better adjusted - and thereby improved can. By the method according to the invention can powder raw materials and / or pigments are incorporated very well, whereby the sensors can also be positively influenced.

Of Furthermore, the droplet size can be a by the method according to the invention existing emulsion be reduced so much that the emulsion more stable, more sprayable and sometimes even becomes translucent.

there it is preferred if the preparation according to the invention is in the form of a O / W emulsions are present and contains at least one emulsifier whose HLB value is temperature-dependent, by increasing or lowering the temperature the lipophilia increases or decreases. Further it is preferred if the preparation is a hydrodispersion acts that additionally Contains hydrocolloids.

Further it is preferred if the preparation additionally contains light stabilizers. Further it is preferred if the preparation additionally contains solids, pigments or contains powder raw materials. It is further preferred if the preparation has a viscosity of 0 up to 500 mPa s, measured with the Haake Visco Tester 02 at 28 ° C. It is further preferred if the preparation in which an emulsifier, whose HLB value depends on the temperature is by increasing or lowering the temperature which lipophilicity increases or decreases is chosen is present from the group of PEG emulsifiers and glyceryl stearate in concentrations of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight. It is further preferred if a preparation is in the hydrocolloid are included as one or more polyacrylates used be, the total amount in the finished cosmetic or dermatological Hydrodispersions advantageously less than 1.0% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the Preparations.

Further it is preferred if the solids in the preparation according to the invention Represent pigments or powder substances. It is further preferred if in the preparation the solids have a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight on the entire preparation. It is further preferred if represent the light stabilizers lipophilic UV filters in the preparation. It is further preferred if the light stabilizers are present in the preparation a content of 1 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 2 to 10% by weight of the total preparation. Is further preferred if the preparation contains an additional amount of self-tanner. Further it is preferred if in the preparation according to the invention Hydrocolloids chosen are from the group of cellulose derivatives, especially from Group formed from (hydroxypropyl) methyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and xanthan gum. It is further preferred if in the preparation that or the hydrocolloids chosen are from the group of copolymers from C10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are optionally cross-linked with an allyl ether sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.

The cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the expert that the preparation tion according to the invention
are more usable than sprayable formulations,
allow higher sun protection factors,
counteract dehydration better,
work better against skin aging and
protect the skin better from environmental influences
than the preparations of the prior art.

• – von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z.B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• – von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• – von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• - von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• – von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo

möglich.When using the cosmetic and / or dermatological preparations according to the invention is surprisingly an effective treatment, but also a prophylaxis

• - signs of premature aging of the skin (e.g. wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or the appendages of the skin,
• - from light-related skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from dry skin conditions and horny layer barrier disorders,
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic light dermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo

possible.

The Preparations according to the invention can also advantageous as cosmetic or dermatological impregnation solutions, with which in particular water-insoluble substrates - such as woven or non-woven wipes - moistened are used. With their help, for example, cosmetic sun protection wipes, wipes and the like available which combines the soft, water-insoluble material with the low-viscosity cosmetic and dermatological impregnation solution.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention, cosmetic and to create dermatological preparations, the main of which The purpose of protection from sunlight is not, but it still does Contain UV protection substances. So z. B. in day creams or Makeup products usually UV-A or UV-B filter substances incorporated. Also provide UV protection substances, as well as antioxidants and, if desired, Preservatives, effective protection of the preparations themselves against spoilage. Favorable are also cosmetic and dermatological preparations that in in the form of a sunscreen.

Accordingly contain the preparations for the purposes of the present invention preferably at least one UV-A and / or UV-B filter substance. The formulations can although not necessary, possibly one or more organic ones and / or contain inorganic pigments as UV filter substances, which can be in the water and / or oil phase.

Preferred inorganic pigments are metal oxides and / or other metal compounds which are sparingly soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides of titanium (TiO ₂ ), zinc (ZnO), iron (eg Fe ₂ O ₃ ), zirconium (ZrO ₂ ), silicon (SiO ₂ ) , Manganese (eg MnO), aluminum (Al ₂ O ₃ ), cerium (eg Ce ₂ O ₃ ), mixed oxides of the corresponding metals as well as mixtures of such oxides, as well as the sulfate of barium (BaSO ₄ ).

The Titanium dioxide pigments can both in the rutile and anatase crystal modification and can advantageously treated superficially within the meaning of the present invention ("Coated"), for example a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character is formed will or should be preserved. This surface treatment can consist of that the Pigments according to known methods with a thin hydrophilic and / or hydrophobic inorganic and / or organic layer be provided. The different surface coating can be in According to the present invention also contain water.

described coated and uncoated titanium dioxide can be used in the sense of the present Invention also in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions come into use. These predispersions can advantageously be used as dispersants and / or solubilizing agents may be added.

The titanium dioxides according to the invention are characterized by a primary particle size between 10 nm to 150 nm.

in the For the purposes of the present invention, particularly preferred titanium dioxides are the MT-100 Z and MT-100 TV from Tayca Corporation, Eusolex T-2000 and Eusolex TS from Merck and Degussa's T 805 titanium dioxide.

For the purposes of the present invention, zinc oxides can also be used in the form of commercially available oily or aqueous predispersions. Zinc oxide particles and predispersions of zinc oxide particles suitable according to the invention are distinguished by a primary particle size of <300 nm and are available under the following trade names from the companies listed:

special preferred zinc oxides for the purposes of the invention are the Z-Cote HP1 from BASF and the zinc oxide NDM from Haarmann & Reimer.

The Total amount of one or more inorganic pigments in the Finished cosmetic preparation is advantageous from the field 0.1% by weight to 25% by weight selected, preferably 0.5% to 18% by weight.

gekennzeichnet ist und unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® M bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.An advantageous organic pigment for the purposes of the present invention is 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol) [INCI : Bisoctyltriazole], which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

and is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® M from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Advantageous UV-A filter substances for the purposes of the present invention are dibenzoylmethane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (CAS-Nr. 70356-09-1), marketed by Givaudan under the trade name Parsol ^® 1789 and is sold by Merck under the trade name Eusolex ^® 9020.

und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz

mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate, welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist.Other advantageous UV-A filter substances are phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid

and their salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, in particular the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt

with the INCI name bisimidazylate, which is available, for example, from Haarmann & Reimer under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP.

Also advantageous are the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt) , which is also called benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethy1-10-sulfonic acid) and is characterized by the following structure:

worin

• • R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff, C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl, C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkyl oder C₃-C₁₀-Cycloalkenyl bedeuten, wobei die Substituenten R¹ und R² gemeinsam mit dem Stickstoffatom, an das sie gebunden sind, einen 5- oder 6-Ring bilden können und
• • R³ einen C₁-C₂₀-Alkyl Rest bedeutet.

Further advantageous UV-A filter substances are hydroxybenzophenones, which are characterized by the following structural formula:

wherein

• • R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl, C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkyl or C ₃ -C ₁₀ cycloalkenyl, where the substituents R ¹ and R ² together with the nitrogen atom to which they are bound, can form a 5- or 6-ring and
• • R ^{3 is} a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical.

und unter dem Handelsnamen Uvinul A Plus bei der Fa. BASF erhältlich ist. Vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung sind ferner sogenannte Breitbandfilter, d.h. Filtersubstanzen, die sowohl UV-A- als auch UV-B-Strahlung absorbieren.A particularly advantageous hydroxybenzophenone in the context of the present invention is 2- (4'-diethylamino-2'-hydoxybenzoyl) benzoic acid hexyl ester (also: aminobenzophenone), which is distinguished by the following structure:

and is available under the trade name Uvinul A Plus from BASF. Advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention are also so-called broadband filters, ie filter substances that absorb both UV-A and UV-B radiation.

wobei R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander gewählt werden aus der Gruppe der verzweigten und unverzweigten Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 10 Kohlenstoffatomen bzw. ein einzelnes Wasserstoffatom darstellen. Insbesondere bevorzugt sind das 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb^® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.Advantageous broadband filters or UV-B filter substances are, for example, bis-resorcinyltriazinderi vate with the following structure:

where R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from the group of branched and unbranched alkyl groups having 1 to 10 carbon atoms or represent a single hydrogen atom. Particularly preferred are the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso triazine ), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb ^® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Especially advantageous preparations in the sense of the present invention, which are characterized by a high or very high UV-A protection, preferably contain several UV-A and / or broadband filters, in particular Dibenzoylmethane derivatives [for example the 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane], Benzotriazole derivatives [for example 2,2'-methylene-bis- (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol)], Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and / or their salts, the 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene and / or its salts and / or the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine . individually or in any combination with each other.

aufweisen, sind vorteilhafte UV-Filtersubstanzen im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung, beispielsweise die in der Europäischen Offenlegungsschrift EP 570 838 A1 beschriebenen s-Triazinderivate, deren chemische Struktur durch die generische Formel

wiedergegeben wird, wobei
R einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen, darstellt,
X ein Sauerstoffatom oder eine NH-Gruppe darstellt,
R₁ einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen,
R₃ ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt,
n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
R₂ einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen, darstellt, wenn X die NH-Gruppe darstellt, und
einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkylrest, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen, oder ein Wasserstoffatom, ein Alkalimetallatom, eine Ammoniumgruppe oder eine Gruppe der Formel

bedeutet, in welcher
A einen verzweigten oder unverzweigten C₁-C₁₈-Alkylrest, einen C₅-C₁₂-Cycloalkyl- oder Arylrest darstellt, gegebenenfalls substituiert mit einer oder mehreren C₁-C₄- Alkylgruppen,
R₃ ein Wasserstoffatom oder eine Methylgruppe darstellt, n eine Zahl von 1 bis 10 darstellt,
wenn X ein Sauerstoffatom darstellt.Also other UV filter substances, which the structural motif

have, are advantageous UV filter substances in the sense of the present invention, for example those in the European patent application EP 570 838 A1 described s-triazine derivatives, the chemical structure of which by the generic formula

is reproduced, whereby
R represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
X represents an oxygen atom or an NH group,
R _{1 is} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of formula

means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group,
n represents a number from 1 to 10,
R _{2 represents} a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, when X represents the NH group, and
a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl radical, optionally substituted with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups, or a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal atom, an ammonium group or a group of the formula

means in which
A represents a branched or unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₅ -C ₁₂ cycloalkyl or aryl radical, optionally substituted by one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl groups,
R _{3 represents} a hydrogen atom or a methyl group, n represents a number from 1 to 10,
when X represents an oxygen atom.

wiedergegeben wird, welches im Folgenden auch als Dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone) bezeichnet wird und unter der Handelsbezeichnung UVASORB HEB bei Sigma 3V erhältlich ist.A particularly preferred UV filter substance in the sense of the present invention is also an asymmetrically substituted s-triazine, the chemical structure of which is represented by the formula

is reproduced, which is also referred to below as dioctylbutylamidotriazon (INCI: Diethylhexylbutamidotriazone) and is available under the trade name UVASORB HEB from Sigma 3V.

A symmetrically substituted s-triazine which is 4,4 ', 4''(1,3,5-triazine-2,4,6-triyltriimino) tris-benzoic acid tris (2 -ethylhexyl ester), synonymous: 2,4,6-tris [anilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)] - 1,3,5-triazine (INCI: ethylhexyl triazone), which is from of BASF Aktiengesellschaft under the trade name UVINUL ^® T 150.

wiedergegeben wird, wobei R₁, R₂ und A₁ verschiedenste organische Reste repräsentieren.European laid-open specification 775 698 also describes bis-resorcinyltriazine derivatives which are preferably to be used and whose chemical structure is represented by the generic formula

is reproduced, wherein R ₁ , R ₂ and A _{1 represent a} wide variety of organic radicals.

Advantageous For the purposes of the present invention, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3 are also , triazine-5 Sodium salt, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5 triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine . the 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxypropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- [4- (2-ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] 1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, the 2,4-bis - {[4- (2 '' - methylpropenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and the 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2 '' - methyl-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine.

gekennzeichnet ist.Another advantageous broadband filter for the purposes of the present invention is 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4-methyl-6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - [( trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl] propyl] phenol (CAS no .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxane, which is characterized by the chemical structural formula

is marked.

• • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• • sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B and / or broadband filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• • 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• • 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• • esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzalmalonic acid di (2-ethylhexyl) ester;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• • Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• • as well as UV filters bound to polymers.

• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z.B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B and / or broadband filter substances are e.g. B .:

• • Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt, and the sulfonic acid itself;
• • Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Particularly advantageous UV filter substances which are liquid at room temperature for the purposes of the present invention are homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate), 4-isopropyl benzyl salicylate and esters of preferably z 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate) and 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester (isopentyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate), 3- (4- (2, ( 2-bis ethoxycarbonylvinyl) phenoxy) propenyl) -methoxysiloxan / dimethylsiloxane copolymer (INCI: dimethicodiethylbenzalmalonate) which is available for example under the trade name Parsol ^® SLX from Hoffmann La Roche.

A further light protection filter substance to be used advantageously according to the invention is ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (octocrylene), which is available from BASF under the name Uvinul ^® N 539 and is distinguished by the following structure:

It can also be of considerable advantage, polymer-bound or polymeric UV filters in preparations according to the present To use the invention, in particular those as described in WO-A-92/20690 to be discribed.

auszeichnet und bei 3V Sigma unter der Handelsbezeichnung Uvasorb^® K2A erhältlich ist.Benzoxazole derivative which is particularly preferred according to the invention is 2,4-bis- [5-1 (dimethylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) -imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) -imino-1,3, 5-triazine with CAS No. 288254-16-0, which is characterized by the structural formula

distinguished and is available from 3V Sigma under the trade name Uvasorb ^® K2A.

The List of the UV filters mentioned in the sense of the present invention can be used Of course not be limiting.

Advantageous contain the preparations according to the invention the substances that UV radiation absorb in the UV-A and / or UV-B range, in a total amount from e.g. 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, in particular 1.0 to 15.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the preparations to make cosmetic preparations available place the hair or skin in front of the entire area of the Protect ultraviolet radiation. You can also as sunscreen for Serve hair or skin.

Self tanner in the For the purposes of the present invention, they have a chemical structural feature Keto or aldehyde groups in the vicinity of alcohol functions on. These ketols or aldols predominantly belong to the substance class the sugar. The most common used self-tanners is 1,3-dihydroxyacetone.

The Connections can with the proteins and amino acids the horny layer of the skin implemented in the sense of a Maillard reaction be, being about not yet complete enlightened The reaction pathway produces polymers that give the skin a brownish tinge Give shade. This reaction is after about 4 to 6 hours completed; the tan so obtained is not washable and is only removed with the normal scaling of the skin.

According to the invention, the following are advantageously used as self-tanners:

5-Hydroxy-1,4-naphtochinon (Juglon) sowie das in den Henna-Blättern vorkommende 2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphtochinon (Lawson).

2-Hydroxy-1,4-naphtochinon (Lawson) Also worth mentioning is 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (juglone), which is extracted from the shells of fresh walnuts

5-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Juglon) and the 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson) found in the henna leaves.

2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawson)

ein im menschlichen Körper vorkommender dreiwertiger Zucker. 1,3-Dihydroxyaceton (DHA)For the purposes of the invention, 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA) is very particularly preferred,

a trivalent sugar found in the human body. 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA)

Powder raw materials for the purposes of the present invention are, for example, bismuth oxychloride, titanized mica, silicon dioxide (fumed silica), spherical silicon dioxide beads, polymethyl methacrylate beads, micronized Teflon, boron nitride, acrylate polymers, aluminum silicate, aluminum starch octenyl succinate, bentonite, calcium silicate, calcium silicate , Corn starch, glyceryl starch, hectorite, hydrated silica, kaolin, magnesium hydroxide, magnesium oxide, magnesium silicate, magnesium trisilicate, maltodextrin, montmorillonite, microcrystalline cellulose, rice starch, silica, talc, mica, titanium dioxide, zinc laurate, zinc myristate, zinc neodecanoate, zinc rosinate, zinc stearate, polyethylene, aluminum oxide, attapulgite, calcium carbonate, calcium carbonate, calcium carbonate , Silica silylate, silk powder, serecite, tin oxide, titanium hydroxide, trimagnesium phosphate, walnut shell powder or any mixtures thereof. Tapioca starch can be used with particular preference.

Preparations according to the invention contain particularly advantageously one or more hydrocolloids. This Hydrocolloids can advantageously chosen are from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, Layered silicates, polyacrylates and / or other polymers. In individual cases can hydrodispersions are produced by using thickeners, but also emulsions.

To counts the gums you plant or tree juices, that harden in the air and form resins or extracts from aquatic plants. From this group can can advantageously be chosen for the purposes of the present invention e.g. gum arabic, carob flour, tragacanth, karaya, Guar gum, pectin, gellan gum, carrageenan, agar, algine, chondrus, Xanthan gum.

The use of derivatized gums such as hydroxypropyl guar ( ^Jaguar® HP 8) is also advantageous.

Under the polysaccharides and derivatives are e.g. Hyaluronic acid, chitin and chitosan, chondroitin sulfates, starch and starch derivatives.

Under the cellulose derivatives are e.g. Methyl cellulose, carboxymethyl cellulose, Hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose.

Layered silicates include naturally occurring and synthetic clays such as montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, laponite, magnesium aluminum silicates such as Veegum ^® . These can be used as such or in modified form such as stearylalkonium hectorites.

Farther can advantageous also silica gels be used.

Particularly suitable thickeners are:
Homopolymers of acrylic acid with a molecular weight of 2,000,000 to 6,000,000, such as the commercial product Carbopole. Other thickeners are sold under the names Carbopol 940, Carbopol EDTA 2001 or Modarez V 600 PX.

polymers from acrylic acid and acrylamide (sodium salt) with a molecular weight of 2,000,000 up to 6000000 such as Hostacerin PN 73 or under the name Amigel distributed Sclerotium Gum.

Also suitable are copolymers of acrylic acid or methacrylic acid such as. Carbopol 1342 or Permulen TRI, TRZ, TR2.

Further Thickener types are polyglycols, cellulose derivatives, in particular Hydroxyalkyl celluloses as well as alginates, carageenan and inorganic Thickeners such as natural or synthetic bentonites.

Under the polyacrylates are e.g. Carbopol types from Noveon (Carbopol 980, 981, 1382, 5984, 2984, EDT 2001 or Pemulen TR2).

in the The present disclosure is used as a generic term for fats, oils, waxes and the like occasionally uses the term "lipids", as is well known to those skilled in the art common is. The terms “oil phase” and “lipid phase” are also used synonymously.

Oils and fats differ among other things in their polarity, which is difficult to define. It has already been suggested that Interfacial tension across from Water as a measure of the polarity index an oil or an oil phase to accept. It applies that the polarity the oil phase in question the bigger the lower the interfacial tension between this oil phase and water is. According to the Interfacial tension as a possible Measure of the polarity of a given oil component considered.

The Interfacial tension is the force on an imaginary, in the interface between two Phased line of length of one meter. The physical unit for this Interfacial tension is calculated classically according to the relationship force / length and becomes ordinary reproduced in mN / m (millinewtons divided by meters). she has positive sign if it tries to reduce the size of the interface. In the opposite case, it has a negative sign. As polar in For the purposes of the present invention, lipids are considered, the Interfacial Tension against water less than 20 mN / m is non-polar, those whose Interfacial tension against water is more than 30 mN / m. Lipids with an interfacial tension against water between 20 and 30 mN / m are generally considered to be medium polar designated.

Polar oils are for example those from the group of lecithins and fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12 to 18 carbon atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can, for example advantageously chosen are from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, such as e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, Soybean oil, Peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil and the like more.

Especially are advantageous polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention all native lipids, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, grape seed oil, safflower oil, evening primrose oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, avocado oil and the like as well as those listed below.

Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of dialkyl ethers, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols. It is particularly advantageous if the oil phase has a content of C _12-15 alkyl benzoate or consists entirely of this.

durch Oxidation eines Alkohols zu einem Aldehyd, durch Aldol-Kondensation des Aldehyds, Abspaltung von Wasser aus dem Aldol- und Hydrierung des Allylaldehyds. Guerbetalkohole sind selbst bei niederen Temperaturen flüssig und bewirken praktisch keine Hautreizungen. Vorteilhaft können sie als fettende, überfettende und auch rückfettend wirkende Bestandteile in Haut- und Haarpflegemitteln eingesetzt werden.Furthermore, the oil phase can advantageously be selected from the group of Guerbet alcohols. Guerbet alcohols are named after Marcel Guerbet, who described their production for the first time. They arise from the reaction equation

by oxidation of an alcohol to an aldehyde, by aldol condensation of the aldehyde, elimination of water from the aldol and hydrogenation of the allyl aldehyde. Guerbet alcohols are liquid even at low temperatures and practically cause no skin irritation. They can advantageously be used as greasing, over-greasing and also moisturizing components in skin and hair care products.

aus. Dabei bedeuten R₁ und R₂ in der Regel unverzweigte Alkylreste.The use of Guerbet alcohols in cosmetics is known per se. Such species are usually characterized by their structure

out. R ₁ and R _{2 are} generally unbranched alkyl radicals.

According to the invention, the Guerbet alcohol or alcohols are advantageously selected from the group in which
R ₁ = propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl or octyl and
R ₂ = hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl, tridecyl or tetradecyl.

und ist beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Isofol^® 12 von der Gesellschaft Condea Chemie GmbH erhältlich – und das 2-Hexyldecanol – es hat die chemische Struktur

und ist beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Isofol^® 16 von der Gesellschaft Condea Chemie GmbH erhältlich. Auch Mischungen von erfindungsgemäßen Guerbet-Alkoholen sind erfindungsgemäß vorteilhaft zu verwenden. Mischungen aus 2-Butyloctanol und 2-Hexyldecanol sind beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Isofol^® 14 von der Gesellschaft Condea Chemie GmbH erhältlich.Guerbet alcohols preferred according to the invention are 2-butyl octanol - it has the chemical structure door

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 12 from Condea Chemie GmbH - and the 2-hexyldecanol - it has the chemical structure

and is available, for example, under the trade name Isofol ^® 16 from Condea Chemie GmbH. Mixtures of Guerbet alcohols according to the invention can also be used advantageously according to the invention. Mixtures of 2-butyl and 2-hexyl decanol are obtainable for example under the trade name Isofol ^® 14 from Condea Chemie GmbH.

The Total amount of Guerbet alcohols in the finished cosmetic or dermatological preparations are advantageous from the field to 25.0% by weight, preferably 0.5-15.0 % By weight selected, based on the total weight of the preparations.

Also any mix of such oil and wax components are premature in the sense of the present invention use. It may also be advantageous if waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, to be used as the sole lipid component of the oil phase.

Particularly advantageous medium-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below:

Non-polar oils are for example those which are selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, in particular Vaseline (petrolatum), paraffin oil, Squalane and squalene, polyolefins and hydrogenated polyisobutenes. Among the polyolefins, polydecenes are the preferred substances.

Particularly advantageous non-polar lipids for the purposes of the present invention are the substances listed below:

It However, mixtures of higher and lower polar lipids is also advantageous and the like to use. The oil phase can thus be advantageously selected from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, and also the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkane carboxylic acids with a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, Sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more if the conditions stipulated in the main claim are met become.

According to the invention advantageous Fat and / or wax components to be used can be selected from the group of vegetable Waxes, animal waxes, mineral waxes and petrochemical waxes to get voted. Are cheap according to the invention for example candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, Cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, berry wax, Ouricury wax, montan wax, jojoba wax, shea butter, beeswax, Scheliackwax, Walrat, Lanolin (wool wax), Bürzelfett, Ceresin, Ozokerit (Earth wax), paraffin waxes and micro waxes, provided that the main claim required conditions are met.

Further advantageous fat and / or wax components are chemically modified waxes and synthetic waxes, such as those available under the trade names Syncrowax HRC (glyceryl tribehenate) and Syncrowax AW 1C (C _18-36 fatty acid) from CRODA GmbH, as well as montan ester waxes, sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes, synthetic or modified beeswaxes (e.g. dimethicone copolyol beeswax and / or C _30-50 alkyl beeswax), polyalkylene waxes, polyethylene glycol waxes, but also chemically modified fats, such as hydrogenated vegetable oils (for example hydrogenated castor oil and / or hydrogenated coconut fat glycerides) such as trihydroxystearin, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and glycol esters such as C _20-40 alkyl stearate, C _20-40 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearate and / or glycol mon titanate. Also of particular advantage are certain organosilicon compounds which have similar physical properties to the fat and / or wax components mentioned, such as stearoxytrimethylsilane, provided that the conditions specified in the main claim are met.

According to the Fat and / or wax components are present both individually and in a mixture. Any mixtures of such oil and wax components are also possible to be used advantageously for the purposes of the present invention.

The oil phase is advantageously selected from the group consisting of 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, octyldodecanol, isotridecyl isononanoate, butylene glycol dicaprylate / dicaprate, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, C _12-15- alkyl benzoate, capryl-capric acid triglycerol ether, provided that the main conditions are dicaprylyl ether.

Mixtures of octyldodecanol, caprylic capric triglyceride, dicaprylyl ether, dicaprylyl carbonate, cocoglycerides, or mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate, mixtures of C _12-15 alkylbenzoate and butylene glycol dicapryl and mixtures of dicapryl and dicaprylate are particularly advantageous _12-15- Alkylbenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl isostearate and isotridecyl isononanoate if the conditions required in the main claim are met.

Of the hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, cycloparaffin, squalane, Squalene, hydrogenated polyisobutene or polydecene advantageous in the sense to use the present invention. provided that in the main claim required conditions are met.

It may also be advantageous to select the oil phase of the preparations according to the invention partially or completely from the group of cyclic and / or linear silicones, which are also referred to as “silicone oils” in the context of the present disclosure. Such silicones or silicone oils can be present as monomers, which are usually characterized by structural elements, as follows:

Silicone oils are high molecular synthetic polymeric compounds in which silicon atoms over oxygen atoms linked in a chain and / or network and the remaining valences of silicon by hydrocarbon residues (mostly methyl, more rarely ethyl, propyl, phenyl groups, etc.) saturated are.

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁-R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). m kann dabei Werte von 2–200.000 annehmen.Linear silicones with a plurality of siloxy units which can advantageously be used according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows:

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). m can assume values of 2–200,000.

werden auch als Polydimethylsiloxan bzw. Dimethicon (INCI) bezeichnet. Dimethicone gibt es in verschiedenen Kettenlängen bzw. mit verschiedenen Molekulargewichten. Dimethicone unterschiedlicher Kettenlänge und Phenyltrimethicone sind besonders vorteilhafte lineare Silikonöle im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung.The linear silicone oils are systematically referred to as polyorganosiloxanes; the methyl-substituted polyorganosiloxanes, which are the most important compounds of this group in terms of quantity and are distinguished by the following structural formula

are also known as polydimethylsiloxane or dimethicone (INCI). Dimethicone is available in different chain lengths or with different molecular weights. Dimethicones of different chain lengths and phenyltrimethicones are particularly advantageous linear silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention.

Especially advantageous polyorganosiloxanes in the sense of the present invention are also, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes [poly (dimethylsiloxane)], which e.g. 10 to 10,000 under the trade names ABIL Th. Goldschmidt available are. Phenylmethylpolysiloxanes (INCI: phenyl Dimethicone, Phenyl Trimethicone), cyclic silicones (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane), which according to INCI also as cyclomethicones amino modified silicones (INCI: Amodimethicone) and silicone waxes, e.g. Polysiloxane-polyalkylene copolymers (INCI: stearyl Dimethicone and Cetyl Dimethicone) and Dialkoxydimethylpolysiloxane (Stearoxy Dimethicone and Behenoxy Stearyl Dimethicone) which are available from Th. Goldschmidt as different Abil-Wax types.

The silicone oils listed below are also particularly advantageous for the purposes of the present invention:

wobei die Siliciumatome mit gleichen oder unterschiedlichen Alkylresten und/oder Arylresten substituiert werden können, welche hier verallgemeinernd durch die Reste R₁–R₄ dargestellt sind (will sagen, daß die Anzahl der unterschiedlichen Reste nicht notwendig auf bis zu 4 beschränkt ist). n kann dabei Werte von 3/2 bis 20 annehmen. Gebrochene Werte für n berücksichtigen, daß ungeradzahlige Anzahlen von Siloxylgruppen im Cyclus vorhanden sein können.Cyclic silicones to be used advantageously according to the invention are generally characterized by structural elements as follows

wherein the silicon atoms can be substituted with the same or different alkyl radicals and / or aryl radicals, which are generally represented here by the radicals R ₁ -R ₄ (to say that the number of different radicals is not necessarily limited to up to 4). n can take values from 3/2 to 20. Broken values for n take into account that there may be odd numbers of siloxyl groups in the cycle.

Particularly advantageous cyclic silicone oils for the purposes of the present invention are cyclomethicones, in particular Cyclomethicone D5 and / or Cyclomethicone D6.

advantageous silicone oils or silicone waxes in the sense of the present invention are cyclic and / or linear silicone oils and silicone waxes.

It is particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention relationship from lipids to silicone oils to choose something like 2: 1 to 1: 2.

Advantageous phenyltrimethicone is chosen as the silicone oil. Other silicone oils, for example Dimethicone, phenyldimethicone, cyclomethicone (octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane) for example hexamethylcyclotrisiloxane, polydimethylsiloxane, poly (methylphenylsiloxane), Cetyl dimethicone, behen oxide dimethicone are advantageous in the sense of to use the present invention.

Advantageous are also mixtures of cyclomethicone and isotridecyl isononanoate, as well as those made from cyclomethicone and 2-ethylhexyl isostearate.

It But it is also advantageous to use silicone oils of a similar constitution as the to select compounds referred to above, their organic side chains derivatized, for example polyethoxylated and / or polypropoxylated are. These include for example poly-siloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers like that Cetyl dimethicone copolyol and the cetyl-dimethicone copolyol (and) polyglyceryl-4-isostearate (and) hexyl laurate.

Especially advantageous preparations are also obtained when as additives or active ingredients Antioxidants are used. According to the invention, the preparations contain advantageously one or more antioxidants. As cheap, but still optional antioxidants can all for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used.

It is also advantageous to add antioxidants to the preparations according to the invention. The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, Glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters ) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, hexa-, H eptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine Butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, Nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, Nordihydroguajaretsäure, Trihydroxybutyrophenon, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their deri vate, zinc and its derivatives (for example ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (for example selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (for example stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, Nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Especially Oil-soluble antioxidants can be advantageous for the purposes of the present invention be used.

A The astonishing property of the present invention is that preparations according to the invention are very good vehicle for are cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients in the skin, whereby preferred active ingredients are antioxidants which protect the skin from being oxidative Protect stress can. Preferred antioxidants are vitamin E and its derivatives and vitamin A and its derivatives.

The amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is before preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05-20% by weight, in particular 1-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Provided Vitamin E and / or its derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001-10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

Provided Vitamin A, or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives the antioxidant (s) are advantageous, their respective Concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight based on the Total weight of the formulation to choose.

The emulsions according to the invention can contain dyes and / or color pigments. The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list in the Cosmetics Ordinance or the EC list of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the colorants approved for food. Advantageous color pigments are, for example, titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (for example Fe ₂ O ₃ , Fe ₃ O ₄ , FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Advantageous dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the list below. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd edition, Society of Dyers and Colorists, Bradford, England, 1971.

It can also be cheap be as a dye one or more substances from the following Group to choose: 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, ceres red, 2- (4-Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, calcium and barium salts 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum salt 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4- Sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone disulfonic acid, aluminum salt of indigo disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77 491 (red) and 77 499 (black)), Iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Further oil-soluble natural dyes are advantageous, such as. Pepper extracts, ⎕-carotene or cochineal.

• 1. Natürliche Perlglanzpigmente, wie z.B. • „Fischsilber" (Guanin/Hypoxanthin-Mischkristalle aus Fischschuppen) und • „Perlmutt" (vermahlene Muschelschalen)
• 2. Monokristalline Perlglanzpigmente wie z.B. Bismuthoxychlorid (BiOCl)
• 3. Schicht-Substrat Pigmente: z. B. Glimmer/Metalloxid

For the purposes of the present invention, emulsions containing pearlescent pigments are also advantageous. The types of pearlescent pigments listed below are particularly preferred:

• 1. Natural pearlescent pigments, such as, for example, • "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and • "mother of pearl" (milled mussel shells)
• 2. Monocrystalline pearlescent pigments such as bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl)
• 3. Layer-substrate pigments: e.g. B. mica / metal oxide

Base for pearlescent pigments are for example powdery Pigments or castor oil dispersions from Bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or Titanium dioxide on mica. Particularly advantageous is e.g. the under the CIN 77163 listed gloss pigment.

The following pearlescent pigment types based on mica / metal oxide are also advantageous:

Especially preferred are e.g. those of the Merck company under the trade names Pearlescent pigments available from Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona.

The list of the pearlescent pigments mentioned is of course not intended to be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the sense of the present invention can be obtained in numerous ways known per se. For example, other substrates besides mica can also be coated with other metal oxides, such as silica and the like. For example, SiO ₂ particles (“Ronaspheren”) coated with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ , which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles, are advantageous.

It can about it also be beneficial, entirely to do without a substrate like mica. Particularly preferred are iron pearlescent pigments, which without the use of mica getting produced. Such pigments are e.g. under the trade name Sicopearl Kupfer 1000 available from BASF.

Especially Also advantageous are effect pigments sold under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yellow, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The glitter particles are in mixtures with various auxiliaries and dyes (such as the dyes with the Color Index (Cl) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

film formers In the sense of the present invention, substances are different Composition characterized by the following property are: solve a film former in water or other suitable solvents and carries the solution then on the skin, so it forms after the solvent has evaporated a film that essentially has a protective function.

zu wählen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Copolymere des Polyvinylpyrrolidons, beispielsweise das PVP Hexadecen Copolymer und das PVP Eicosen Copolymer, welche unter den Handelsbezeichnungen Antaron V216 und Antaron V220 bei der GAF Chemicals Cooperation erhältlich sind.It is particularly advantageous to use the film formers from the group of polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP)

to choose. Copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, for example the PVP hexadecene copolymer and the PVP eicosen copolymer, which are available under the trade names Antaron V216 and Antaron V220 from GAF Chemicals Cooperation, are particularly preferred.

Likewise Other polymeric film formers, such as, for example, are advantageous Sodium polystyrene sulfonate, which is under the trade name Flexan 130 at National Starch and Chemical Corp. is available, and / or Polyisobutene, available at Rewo under the trade name Rewopal PIB1000. More suitable Polymers are e.g. Polyacrylamides (Seppigel 305), polyvinyl alcohols, PVP, PVP / VA copolymers, polyglycols.

As Skin moisturizers can advantageously be glycerol, chitosan, Fucogel, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, butylene glycol, mannitol, Lactic acid, Natriumpyrolidoncarbonsäure, hyaluronic acid, Salts of the specified acids and glycine, urea and salts of metals of the first and second Use main group.

Especially suitable are glycerol, lactic acid, Butylene glycol, urea, hyaluronic acid.

The The content of skin moisturizers is advantageously 3% by weight to 60% by weight, preferably 4 to 50% by weight, in particular 5 to 40% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The aqueous phase of the preparations according to the invention contains optionally advantageous alcohols, diols or polyols lower Carbon number, and their ethers, preferably ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, Ethylene glycol, ethylene glycol monoethyl or monobutyl ether, propylene glycol monomethyl, -monoethyl or monobutyl ether, diethylene glycol monomethyl or -monoethyl ether and analog products, furthermore lower alcohols C number, e.g. Ethanol, isopropanol, 1,2-propanediol, glycerin as well in particular one or more thickeners, which or which advantageously chosen can be from the group silicon dioxide, aluminum silicates.

Examples

Example 1: Sun-Spay

• • The Phase A is at 95 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • The Phase C is at 95 ° C heated. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a pre-emulsion becomes generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) are at room temperature Add tempered phases D and E to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Example 2: Sun spray with a high content of fat-soluble light filters

• • The Phase A is at 95 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B and C, which are at room temperature, are presented be called Given phase A.
• • The Phase D is at 95 ° C heated. By adding phase D to phase A / B / C, a Pre-emulsion generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) are at room temperature Add tempered phases E and F to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Example 3: After Sun Spray with starch

• • The Phase B is at 95 ° C heated.
• • The Phase A and C, which are at room temperature, are presented be called Given phase A.
• • The Phase D is at 95 ° C heated. By adding phase D to phase A / B / C, a Pre-emulsion generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) are at room temperature Add tempered phases E and F to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Hydrodispersions 1 (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)

• • phase A becomes 80 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • The Phase C is brought to 80 ° C heated. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a pre-emulsion becomes generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) the temperature is brought to room temperature Add phase d to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Hydrodispersions 2 (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)

• • phase A becomes 80 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • Phase C is heated to 80 ° C. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a Pre-emulsion created.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) the temperature is brought to room temperature Add phase D to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Hydrodispersions 3 (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)

• • phase A becomes 80 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • The Phase C is brought to 80 ° C heated. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a pre-emulsion becomes generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) are at room temperature Add tempered phases D and E to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Hydrodispersions 4 (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)

• • phase A becomes 80 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • Phase C is heated to 80 ° C. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a Pre-emulsion created.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) the temperature is brought to room temperature Add phase D to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Hydrodispersions 5 (for use as a lotion, impregnation solution or spray)

• • phase A becomes 80 ° C heated.
• • The Phase B, which is at room temperature, becomes the submitted hot phase A given.
• • The Phase C is brought to 80 ° C heated. By adding phase C to phase A / B, a pre-emulsion becomes generated.
• • Under stir (2 min with e.g. Pendraulik LD 50) the temperature is brought to room temperature Add phase D to the emulsion.
• • The emulsion is subjected to high pressure homogenization at 90 ° C and then immediately cooled to a temperature of 28 ° C.
  

Claims (16)

Process for the production of cosmetic and / or dermatological finely dispersed but not transparent preparations which comprise a water phase and an oil phase, characterized in that (a) the number-average droplet size of the inner phase of the emulsion is at least 100 nm, particularly preferably 120 nm, (b ) the number-average droplet size of the inner phase of the emulsion is at most 500 nm, preferably at most 300 nm, particularly preferably at most 250 nm, (c) the phases are combined and pre-emulsified (d) and then subjected to homogenization under pressure, (d1 ) wherein the pressure is at least 30 bar, preferably 500 bar, particularly preferably 800 bar, very particularly preferably 1000 bar, very exceptionally preferably 1100 bar and (d2) at most 2000, preferably 1500 bar. Preparation available by a method according to claim 1. Preparation according to claim 2, characterized in that she in the form of an O / W emulsions is present and contains at least one emulsifier whose HLB value is temperature-dependent, by increasing or Lowering the temperature increases or decreases the lipophilicity. Preparation according to claim 2, characterized in that it is a hydrodispersion that also contains hydrocolloids. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that they additionally contain sunscreen contains. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that they additionally contain solids, Contains pigments or powder raw materials. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that it is a viscosity from 0 to 500 mPa s, measured with the Haake Visco Tester 02 at 28 ° C. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations, in which an emulsifier, whose HLB value is temperature-dependent, by increasing or lowering the temperature which lipophilicity increases or decreases is characterized in that it chosen is present from the group of PEG emulsifiers and glyceryl stearate in concentrations of 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.2 to 7% by weight. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations in which hydrocolloids are contained, characterized in that as this one or more polyacrylates are used, the total amount in the finished cosmetic or dermatological hydrodispersions advantageously less than 1.0% by weight, preferably between 0.01 and 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparations. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the Solids represent pigments or powder materials. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that the solids have a content of 0.5 to 5% by weight of the total preparation. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that the sunscreen represent lipophilic UV filters. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that the sunscreen a content of 1 to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 2 to 10% by weight of the total preparation. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that they have a additional Self-tanning salary exhibit. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that the or the hydrocolloids chosen are from the group of cellulose derivatives, especially from Group formed from (hydroxypropyl) methyl cellulose, sodium carboxymethyl cellulose and xanthan gum. Preparation according to at least one of the preceding Expectations characterized in that the or the hydrocolloids chosen are from the group of copolymers from C10-30 alkyl acrylates and one or more monomers of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or their esters, which are optionally cross-linked with an allyl ether sucrose or an allyl ether of pentaerythritol.