DE10256507A1 - Use of emulsifier mixtures for the production of cosmetic products - Google Patents

Abstract

The use of emulsifier mixtures for the production of cosmetic compositions is described, which contain an aqueous and a non-aqueous phase, the composition having a phase inversion temperature (PIT) in the range from -5 ° C. to 45 ° C.

Description

The present invention relates to the use of emulsifier mixtures for the production of cosmetic Means.

A variety of cosmetic products are offered in the form of emulsions. Depending on the type of formulation the emulsion lies as an oil-in-water (O / W) or as a water-in-oil system (W / O) before. Both systems differ in particular in their sensory properties. So OIW emulsions are perceived as cool, while W / O emulsions a warming Convey effect.

In certain applications, especially in the field of skin care, however, it is desirable that a formulation both effects, depending of the wishes the customer.

The object of the present invention was therefore to provide cosmetic products that this Requirements met. However, must such funds also about adequate storage stability feature, to be commercializable.

It was found that by the Use of certain emulsifier systems means that can be obtained meet the requirements.

In a first embodiment The present invention therefore relates to the use of emulsifier mixtures for the production of cosmetic products that have an aqueous and a non-aqueous one Contain phase, the agent having a phase inversion temperature (PIT) in the range of -5 ° C up to 45 ° C having.

Means within the meaning of the present Invention can so reversibly change the phase state, i.e. as an O / W or W / O emulsion are present, the sensory properties accordingly with change. The phase change is caused by temperature changes caused. A cooling sun protection emulsion is therefore possible, for example by cooling in a warming to convert skin-care emulsion. This phase change can take place at the customer by this means e.g. cools in the fridge.

It is known in itself that stable water and oil containing emulsions are in different phase states can. So a finely dispersed oil phase are distributed in the homogeneous water phase (O / W), or vice versa, the finely dispersed watery Phase is in the oil phase dispersed before (W / O). The phase transition between the two states can be reversible and leaves control themselves through temperature, for example.

Before going to the details of the technical invention Teaching is summarized here are essential relevant literature and expertise on the phenomenon the temperature-dependent Phase inversion and the associated Parameters PIT cited. In the light of this accessible to the general public Develops basic knowledge yourself understanding and the possibility to implement the teaching of the invention. A very careful presentation the phase equilibria of 3-component systems from aqueous Phase / oil phase / surfactant (especially non-ionic emulsifiers / emulsifier systems) themselves in the publication K. SHINODA and N. KUNIEDA "phase Properties of Emulsions: PIT and HLB "in" Encyclopedia of Emulsion Technology, 1983, vol. 1, 337 to 367. The authors relate to their publication especially the relevant ones extensive printed state of the art, whereby at understanding the teaching according to the invention given below in particular that Knowledge of temperature dependence the phase inversion of such oil / water systems containing emulsifiers Meaning is. The cited publication SHINODA et al. goes through this temperature parameter and the its variation triggered Effects in the multi-phase system in detail on. Are shown for flowable mixtures of substances based on the 3-component oil / water emulsifier systems in particular the dependence of the phase equilibrium states of the temperature of the multi-component system. The one in comparison lower temperature range with stable state of the O / W emulsion a disperse oil phase in the closed water phase goes in when the temperature rises the area of phase inversion - PIT or area of the "middle phase" - about. When the temperature increases further inverts the multi-component system to a stable W / O invert state, in the in the closed oil phase the water phase is now dispersed.

Determining these different Phase ranges and especially the determination of the im given system (microemulsion) middle phase is in possible in two ways taking these two options expediently be connected:

• a) Determination of the temperature dependence and the associated phase shift through experimental Debugging of the respective system, in particular by means of conductivity determination.
• b) In advance, based on today's specialist knowledge, there is the possibility of calculating the PIT by calculation of the affected system.

Basically, the phenomenon of Phase inversion and the associated Phase inversion temperature (PIT) takes place within a temperature range instead, which in turn has a lower limit against the O / W emulsion state and delimits with its upper limit against the W / O invert emulsion state. The experimental testing of the respective system, in particular by determining the conductivity with increasing and / or falling temperature, gives measures for the respective lower PIT limit and PIT upper limit, with slight shifts again can, once the conductivity test in the ascending temperature branch and on the other hand in the falling temperature branch be determined. The phase inversion temperature (PIT) or better said the PIT area shows agreement with the definition the previously explained WINSOR III (microemulsion) middle phase. However, the following applies: the distance between the PIT lower limit (delimitation against E / W-) and the PIT upper limit (Differentiation from W / O-Invert-) is usually a controllable one and comparatively by choosing suitable emulsifier components or systems limited Temperature range. Frequently there are temperature ranges that are less than the difference value than 20 to 30 ° C, in particular not more than 10 to 15 ° C, result. For certain embodiments but it can be quite interesting, with comparatively broad ones Temperature ranges for the phase inversion to work.

The mathematical determination of the PIT the system concerned in accordance with b) does not lead to this for the exact determination of the aforementioned temperature limit values of the respective PIT area, but to a numerical value that is of the order of magnitude in practice then actually occurring PIT range. This makes it understandable that the Combination of the phase shift determinations according to a) and b) for the practice may be appropriate can.

The experimental determination of the Temperature range for phase inversion through conductivity measurements is relevant here The state of the art in writing is described in detail. in this respect can be referred to. The under the phase inversion temperature range cooled O / W emulsions show when determining conductivity an electrical conductivity from above 1 mSiemens per cm (mS / cm). By slowly warming up under specified program conditions becomes a conductivity diagram created. The temperature range within which the conductivity drops to values below 0.1 mS / cm is called the phase inversion temperature range written down. For the purposes of the teaching of the invention it is appropriate corresponding conductivity diagram also to create on the falling temperature branch, at which the conductivity is determined on a multi-component mixture, which is initially based on Temperatures heated above the phase inversion temperature range has been and then cooled in a predetermined manner. The ones determined here upper and lower limits for the phase inversion temperature range have to not be completely identical to the corresponding values of the previous one described determination section with increasing temperature of the multi-component mixture. As a rule, however, are the respective ones Limit values stored so close together that for large-scale Working with standardized measures - especially by averaging that belong to each other Limit values - worked can be. But also for the case here more Differentiations of the limit values of the phase inversion temperature range on the one hand when determining in increasing temperature and on the other measured in the determination at a falling temperature the feasibility the technical teaching described in detail below ensured from the working principles used here. to Reduction of the experimental workload can be the computational Determination of the PIT of the multi-component system concerned be appropriate. In particular, this also applies to potential optimizations in the selection of emulsifiers or emulsifier systems and adapting them to other technical considerations Act predetermined selection and mixing of aqueous phase on the one hand and Oil phase type on the other hand. Based on this basic knowledge, it becomes possible for each Components intended for practical use - in particular the oil phase and related Emulsifiers / emulsifier systems according to type and quantity - in advance mixtures and mixing ratios to determine their PIT in the temperature range sought according to the invention lies. This gives a first sensible approach to performing experimental Work in the sense of the investigation method for a). About the calculation The PIT can go beyond the area of education of the Middle phase with its lower temperature limit and especially yours Upper temperature limit can be determined.

The properties of aqueous emulsions described above are already being used in some areas of technology. So describes the DE 196 43 840 Emulsions for use as drilling fluids for ground drilling, whereby these emulsions can undergo a temperature-controlled phase inversion O / W to W / O. However, a solution for the field of application of drilling fluids mentioned there cannot simply be transferred to cosmetic formulations. On the one hand, the ingredients in drilling fluids are completely different from those in cosmetic products, just as an example, it should be noted that drilling fluids always contain high amounts of dispersed solids for density adjustment, Contain alkalis such as Ca (OH) ₂ and special additives. On the other hand, such drilling fluids are regularly checked during operation and their composition adapted to the conditions of the drilling.

With cosmetic products there are others Ingredients affected and continue to apply different standards on stability applied . A cosmetic product needs no further intervention partially over Stay stable for years to be sold. An easy transfer the teaching of the scripture cited above on the production of cosmetic So funds were not possible.

Trade in cosmetic products it, according to the definition the CIDESCO, to funds that are used to beautify the Skin, face and body to reach. Accordingly, cosmetics mean all measures on the skin, its appendix organs and the noticeable mucous membranes Cleaning (including deodorization and antiperspiration), for preservative, preventive and improving care (including dental and oral care), for embellishment, Decoration or coloring (including the use of perfumes) as well as the plast. Surgery. Depending on the application purpose included the cosmetic formulations contain a number of other auxiliaries and additives, such as surfactants, other oil bodies, emulsifiers, pearlescent waxes, Consistency enhancers, thickeners, superfatting agents, stabilizers, Polymers, silicone compounds, fats, waxes, lecithins, phospholipids, biogenic agents, UV light protection factors, antioxidants, deodorants, Antiperspirants, antidandruff agents, film formers, swelling agents, Insect repellents, self-tanners, Tyrosinase inhibitors (depigmenting agents), hydrotropes, solubilizers, Preservatives, perfume oils, dyes etc., which are listed below as examples.

oil body

Additional compounds which may be used are additional compounds, for example Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, such as. B. myristyl myristate, myristyl palmitate, myristyl stearate, Myristylisostearat, myristyl, Myristylbehenat, Myristylerucat, cetyl myristate, cetyl palmitate, cetyl stearate, Cetylisostearat, cetyl oleate, cetyl behenate, Cetylerucat, Stearylmyristat, stearyl palmitate, stearyl stearate, Stearylisostearat, stearyl oleate, stearyl behenate, Stearylerucat, isostearyl, isostearyl palmitate, Isostearylstearat, isostearyl isostearate, Isostearyloleat, isostearyl behenate, Isostearyloleat, oleyl, oleyl palmitate, oleyl stearate, oleyl isostearate, oleate, Oleylbehenat, oleyl, behenyl myristate, behenyl, behenyl, Behenylisostearat, behenyl oleate, behenyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, erucyl, Eru-cyloleat, erucyl and erucylerucate. In addition, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ alkylhydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, in particular dioctyl malates, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimer diol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C ₆ -C ₁₀ fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C ₆ - C ₁₈ fatty acids, esters of C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, esters of C ₂ -C ₂₂ dicarboxylic acids with linear or branched alcohols with 1 to 22 carbon atoms or polyols with 2 to 10 Carbon atoms and 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, such as. B. dicaprylyl carbonates (Cetiol ^® CC), Guerbet carbonates based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10 C atoms, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ alcohols (e.g. Finsolv ^® TN), linear or branched, symmetrical or asymmetrical dialkyl ethers having 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, such as. B. dicaprylyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE), ring opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils (cyclomethicones, silicon methicone types, etc.) and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons, such as. B. as squalane, squalene or dialkylcyclohexane.

Fats and waxes

Fats and waxes are added to the personal care products as care substances and also to increase the consistency of the cosmetics. Typical examples of fats are glycerides, ie solid or liquid vegetable or animal products which essentially consist of mixed glycerol esters of higher fatty acids. Fatty acid partial glycerides, ie technical mono- and / or diesters of glycerol with fatty acids with 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as glycerol mono / dilaurate, palmitate or stearate, are also suitable for this. Natural waxes such as z. B. candelilla wax, carnauba wax, japan wax, esparto grass wax, cork wax, guaruma wax, rice germ oil wax, sugar cane wax, ouricury wax, montan wax, beeswax, shellac wax, walnut, lanolin (wool wax), pretzel fat, ceresin, ozokerite (earth wax), petrolatum, paraffin waxes, micro waxes; chemically modified waxes (hard waxes), such as. B. Montanester waxes, Sasol waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and synthetic waxes, such as. B. polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes in question. In addition to fats, fat-like substances such as lecithins and phospholipids can also be used as additives. The person skilled in the art understands the term lecithins as those glycerophospholipids which are formed from fatty acids, glycerol, phosphoric acid and choline by esterification. Lecithins are therefore often referred to in the professional world as phosphatidylcholines (PC). Examples of natural lecithins are the cephalins, which are also referred to as phosphatidic acids and are derivatives of 1,2-diacyl-sn-glycerol-3-phosphoric acids. In contrast, phospholipids are usually understood to be mono- and preferably diesters of phosphoric acid with glycerol (glycerol phosphates), which are generally classed as fats. In addition, sphingosines or sphingolipids are also suitable.

pearlescent

For example, come as pearlescent waxes in question: alkylene glycol esters, especially ethylene glycol distearate; fatty acid, especially coconut fatty acid diethanolamide; Partial glycerides, especially stearic acid monoglyceride; Esters of polyvalent, optionally hydroxy-substituted carboxylic acids with Fatty alcohols with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, especially long-chain ones Esters of tartaric acid; Fatty substances, such as fatty alcohols, fatty ketones, fatty aldehydes, Fatty ethers and fatty carbonates, which have a total of at least 24 carbon atoms, especially lauron and distearyl ether; Fatty acids such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid or behenic, Ring opening products of olefin epoxides with 12 to 22 carbon atoms with fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 carbon atoms and / or polyols with 2 to 15 carbon atoms and 2 to 10 hydroxyl groups and mixtures thereof.

Consistency agents and thickeners

Other possible consistency agents are primarily fatty alcohols or hydroxy fatty alcohols with 12 to 22 and preferably 16 to 18 carbon atoms and, in addition, partial glycerides, fatty acids or hydroxy fatty acids. A combination of these substances with alkyl oligoglucosides and / or fatty acid N-methylglucamides of the same chain length and / or polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearates is preferred. Suitable thickeners are, for example, Aerosil types (hydrophilic silicas), polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, guar guar, agar agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethyl cellulose and hydroxyethyl and hydroxypropyl cellulose, as well as higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono- and diesters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (. eg Carbopol ^® and Pemulen grades from Goodrich; Synthalens ^® from Sigma; Keltrol grades from Kelco; Sepigel grades from Seppic; Salcare grades from Allied Colloids), polyacrylamides, polymers, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinyl pyrrolidone. Bentonites, such as, for example, have also proven particularly effective. B. Bentone ^® Gel VS-5PC (Rheox), which is a mixture of cyclopentasiloxane, disteardimonium hectorite and propylene carbonate. Surfactants such as, for example, ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, esters of fatty acids with polyols such as, for example, pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with a narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as sodium chloride and ammonium chloride are also suitable.

superfatting

Substances can be used as superfatting agents such as lanolin and lecithin and polyethoxylierfe or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, polyol fatty acid esters, Monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides are used, the latter at the same time as foam stabilizers serve.

stabilizers

Metal salts can be used as stabilizers of fatty acids, such as B. magnesium, aluminum and / or zinc stearate or ricinoleate be used.

polymers

Suitable cationic polymers are, for example, cationic cellulose derivatives, such as. B. a quaternized hydroxyethyl cellulose, which is available under the name Polymer JR 400 ^® from Amerchol, cationic starch, copolymers of diallylammonium salts and acrylamides, quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / vinylimidazole polymers, such as. B. Luviquat ^® (BASF), condensation products of polyglycols and amines, quaternized collagen polypeptides, such as lauryldimonium hydroxypropyl hydrolyzed collagen (Lame quat ^® L / Grünau), quaternized wheat polypeptides, polyethyleneimine, cationic silicone polymers such as B. amodimethicones, copolymers of adipic acid and dimethylaminohydroxypropyldiethylenetriamine (Cartaretine ^® / Sandoz), copolymers of acrylic acid with dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (Merquat ^® 550 / Chemviron), polyaminopolyamides and their crosslinked water-soluble polymers, cationic chitin derivatives, such as quaternized, quaternized chitinated products, for example, quaternized chitinated products, such as quaternized chitinated products, such as quaternized chitinated products, such as quaternized chirin derivatives from dihaloalkylene, such as. B. dibromobutane with bisdialkylamines, such as. B. bis-dimethylamino-1,3-propane, cationic guar gum, such as. B. Jaguar ^® CBS, Jaguar ^® C-17, Jaguar ^® C-16 from Celanese, quaternized ammonium salt polymers, such as. B. Mirapol ^® A-15, Mirapol ^® AD-1, Mirapol ^® AZ-1 from Miranol.

As anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and nonionic polymers come, for example, vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, vinyl acetate / butyl maleate / Isoboronyl acrylate copolymers, methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers and their esters, uncrosslinked and polyols crosslinked polyacrylic acids, acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride Acrylate copolymers, octylacrylamide / methyl methacrylate / tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate / 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate copolymers, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, vinyl pyrrolidone / dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinyl caprolactam terpolymers and optionally derivatized cellulose ethers and silicones in question.

silicone compounds

In addition to the compounds of the invention of formula (I) can the agents according to the invention still contain other silicon-containing components. Suitable silicone compounds are, for example, dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, cyclic silicones as well as amino, fatty acid, alcohol, polyether, epoxy-, fluorine-, glycoside- and / or alkyl-modified silicone compounds, which are both liquid at room temperature as well as resinous can be present. Simethicones, which are mixtures, are also suitable from dimethicones with an average chain length of 200 to 300 dimethylsiloxane units and hydrogenated silicates.

UV light protection filter and antioxidants

• – 3-Benzylidencampher bzw. 3-Benzylidennorcampher und dessen Derivate, z. B. 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher.
• – 4-Aminobenzoesäurederivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-ethyl-hexylester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäure-2-octylester und 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoe-säureamylester
• – Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäure-propylester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisoamylester 2-Cyano-3,3-phenylzimtsäure-2-ethylhexylester (Octocrylene)
• – Ester der Salicylsäure, vorzugsweise Salicylsäure-2-ethylhexylester, Salicylsäure-4-iso-propylbenzylester, Salicylsäurehomomenthylester
• – Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• – Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexyl-ester
• – Triazinderivate, wie z. B. 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin und Octyl- Triazon, oder Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb^® HEB)
• – Propan-1,3-dione, wie z. B. 1-(4-tert.Butylphenyl)-3-(4'methoxyphenyl)propan-1,3-dion
• – Ketotricyclo(5.2.1.0)decan-Derivate.

Under UV light protection factors are to be understood, for example, liquid or crystalline organic substances (light protection filters) at room temperature which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, e.g. B. to release heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble substances such. B. To name:

• - 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcampher and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-Methylbenzylidene) camphor.
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethyl-hexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and amyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isamyl ester 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene)
• - Esters of salicylic acid, preferably salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, salicylic acid 4-iso-propylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomethyl ester
• - Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• - Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid di-2-ethylhexyl ester
• - Triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyl-triazone, or dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb ^® HEB)
• Propane-1,3-diones, such as e.g. B. 1- (4-tert-Butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione
• - Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives.

• – 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure und deren Alkali-, Erdalkali-, Ammonium-, Alkylammonium-, Alkanolammonium- und Glucammoniumsalze
• – Sulfonsäurederivate von Benzophenonen, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenon-5-sulfonsäure und ihre Salze
• – Sulfonsäurederivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl) benzolsulfonsäure und 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornyliden)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Possible water-soluble substances are:

• - 2-Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzo-phenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts
• - Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene methyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bornylidene) sulfonic acid and their salts.

Derivatives of benzoylmethane, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl, are particularly suitable as typical UV-A filters -4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione as well as enamine compounds as described in the DE 19712033 A1 (BASF). The UV-A and UV-B filters can of course also be used in mixtures. Particularly favorable combinations consist of the derivatives of benzoylmethane, e.g. B. 4-tert-butyl-4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol ^® 1789) and 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate-2-ethyl-hexyl ester (octocrylene) in combination with esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid-2 -ethylhexyl ester and / or propyl 4-methoxycinnamate and / or isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate. Such combinations with water-soluble filters such as. B. 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts combined.

In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble light protection pigments, namely finely dispersed metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are, in particular, zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. Silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used as salts. The oxides and salts are used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. They can have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use particles which have an ellipsoidal shape or a shape which differs in some other way from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobicized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxide, such as. B. Titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Silicones, and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones, are particularly suitable as hydrophobic coating agents. So-called micro- or nanopigments are preferably used in sunscreens. Micronized zinc oxide is preferably used.

In addition to the two aforementioned groups of primary light stabilizers, it is also possible to use secondary light stabilizers of the antioxidant type which interrupt the photochemical reaction chain which is triggered when UV radiation penetrates the skin. Typical examples are amino acids (e.g. glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (e.g. urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose , Propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, Oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthionocinsulfoximines, , Butioninsulfone, Penta-, Hexa-, Heptathioninsulfoximin) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. B. pmol to μmol / kg), further (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, Bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and derivatives (e.g. B. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin apalmitate) and coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, Ferulic acid, furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajakarzarzäure, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, superoxide dismutase, zinc and its derivatives ( e.g. ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (e.g. B. selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (z. B. stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives suitable according to the invention (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

Biogenic agents

Biogenic active ingredients are, for example Tocopherol, tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, (deoxy) ribonucleic acid and their fragmentation products, β-glucans, Retinol, bisabolol, allantoin, phytantriol, panthenol, AHA acids, amino acids, ceramides, Pseudoceramides, essential oils, plant extracts, such as B. Prunus extract, Bambaranus extract and vitamin complexes to understand.

Deodorants and germ-inhibiting medium

Cosmetic deodorants (deodorants) counteract body odors, mask them or eliminate them. Body odors arise by the action of skin bacteria on apocrine sweat, being uncomfortable smelling degradation products are formed. Accordingly included Deodorants Active ingredients that act as germ inhibitors, enzyme inhibitors, Odor absorber or odor masker act.

Anti-germ agents

In principle, all are germicidal agents substances effective against gram-positive bacteria, such as B. 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their salts and esters, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N '- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) urea, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2' '- hydroxy-diphenyl ether (triclosan), 4-chloro-3,5-dimethylphenol, 2,2 '' methylene bis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 3-methyl-4- (1-methylethyl) phenol, 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 3- (4-chlorophenoxy) -1,2-propanediol, 3-1od-2-propynyl butyl carbamate, chlorhexidine, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide (TTC), antibacterial fragrances, thymol, thyme oil, eugenol, Clove oil, Menthol, mint oil, Farnesol, phenoxyethanol, glycerol monocaprinate, glycerol monocaprylate, Glycerol monolaurate (GML), diglycerol monocaprinate (DMC), salicylic acid N-alkylamides such as B. Salicylic acid n-octylamide or salicylic acid-n-decylamide.

enzyme inhibitors

Esterase inhibitors, for example, are suitable as enzyme inhibitors. These are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (Hydagen ^® CAT). The substances inhibit enzyme activity and thereby reduce odor. Other substances which can be considered as esterase inhibitors are sterol sulfates or phosphates, such as, for example, lanosterol, cholesterol, campesteric, stigmasterol and sitosterol sulfate or phosphate, dicarboxylic acids and their esters, such as, for example, glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, Monoethyl adipate, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters such as, for example, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or tartaric acid diethyl ester, and zinc glycinate.

odor absorbers

Suitable odor absorbers are substances absorb the odor-forming compounds and hold them to a large extent can. They lower and reduce the partial pressure of the individual components so also their speed of propagation. It is important that Perfumes unaffected have to stay. Odor absorbers are not effective against bacteria. They contain for example, the main ingredient is a complex zinc salt of ricinoleic acid or special, largely odorless fragrances, which are known to the person skilled in the art as "fixators", such as z. B. extracts of Labdanum or Styrax or certain abietic acid derivatives. As a smell masker act fragrances or perfume oils that additionally on their function as odor maskers give the deodorants their respective fragrance. As perfume oils are for example called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances. natural Fragrances are extracts from flowers, Stems and leaves, fruits, Fruit peel, roots, wood, herbs and grasses, Needles and twigs as well as resins and balms. Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Linalyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, allyl cyclohexyl propionate, Styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example Benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellol, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, among the Ketones e.g. B. the Jonone and methylcedryl ketone, to the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferably used, which together create an appealing fragrance. Also essential oils less Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. B. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labdanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably become bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, boisambrene forte, Ambroxan, indole, Hedione, Sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cycloverfal, lavandin oil, Muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romilat, irotyl and floramat used alone or in mixtures.

antiperspirants

• – adstringierende Wirkstoffe
• – Ölkomponenten
• – nichtionische Emulgatoren
• – Coemulgatoren
• – Konsistenzgeber
• – Hilfsstoffe wie z. B. Verdicker oder Komplexierungsmittel und/oder
• – nichtwässrige Lösungsmittel wie z. B. Ethanol, Propylenglykol und/oder Glycerin.

Antiperspirants (antiperspirants) reduce sweat formation by influencing the activity of the eccrine sweat glands and thus counteract armpit wetness and body odor. Aqueous or anhydrous formulations of antiperspirants typically contain the following ingredients:

• - astringent active ingredients
• - oil components
• - nonionic emulsifiers
• - co-emulsifiers
• - consistency generator
• - auxiliaries such as B. thickeners or complexing agents and / or
• - non-aqueous solvents such as As ethanol, propylene glycol and / or glycerin.

As an astringent antiperspirant active are particularly suitable salts of aluminum, zirconium or Zinc. Such suitable antiperspirant active ingredients are z. B. aluminum chloride, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, Aluminum sesquichlorohydrate and their complex compounds e.g. B. with 1,2-propylene glycol. Aluminum hydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chloride tartrate, Aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, Aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate and their complex compounds z. B. with amino acids like glycine. Next to it Oil-soluble and water-soluble auxiliaries customary in antiperspirants be contained in smaller quantities.

• – entzündungshemmende, hautschützende oder wohlriechende ätherische Öle
• – synthetische hautschützende Wirkstoffe und/oder
• – öllösliche Parfümöle.

Such oil-soluble aids can e.g. B. be:

• - anti-inflammatory, skin-protecting or fragrant essential oils
• - synthetic skin-protecting agents and / or
• - oil-soluble perfume oils.

usual water-soluble additions are z. B. preservatives, water-soluble fragrances, pH adjusting agents, e.g. B. Buffer mixtures, water soluble Thickeners, e.g. B. water soluble natural or synthetic polymers such as B. xanthan gum, hydroxyethyl cellulose, Polyvinyl pyrrolidone or high molecular weight polyethylene oxides.

film formers

Common film formers are, for example Chitosan, microcrystalline chitosan, quaternized chitosan, polyvinylpyrrolidone, Vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl acetate copolymers, polymers of the acrylic acid series, quaternary Cellulose derivatives, collagen, hyaluronic acid or its salts and the like Links.

Antidandruff agents

Piroctone olamine (1-hydroxy-4-methyl-6- (2,4,4-trimythylpentyl) -2- (1 H) -pyridinone monoethanolamine salt), Baypival ^® (climbazole), Ketoconazole ^® , (4-acetyl- 1 - {- 4- [2- (2.4-dichlorophenyl) r-2- (1N-imidazol-1-ylmethyl) -1,3-dioxylan-c-4-ylmethoxyphenyl} piperazine, ketoconazole, elubiol, selenium disulfide, sulfur colloidal , Schwefelpolyehtylenglykolsorbitanmonooleat, Schwefelrizinolpolyehtoxylat, Schwfel tar distillate, salicylic acid (or in combination with hexachlorophene), undecylenic acid monoethanolamide sulfosuccinate Na salt, Lamepon UD ^® (protein undecylenic acid condensate), zinc pyrithione, magnesium pyrithione Aluminiumpyrithion and / dipyrithione magnesium sulfate.

swelling agent

Montmorillonites, as swelling agents for aqueous phases, Clay minerals, pemules and alkyl-modified carbopol types (Goodrich) serve.

Insect repellents

Suitable insect repellents are, for example, include N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-pentanediol or ethyl 3- (Nn-butyl-N-acetyl-amino) -propionic acid-ethyl ester), which under the name ^® Insect Repellent 3535 is marketed by Merck KGaA, as well as butylacetylaminopropionate.

Self tanner and depigmentation

Dihydroxyacetone is suitable as a self-tanner. As tyrosine inhibitors that prevent the formation of melanin and Find application in depigmenting agents, for example Arbutin, ferulic acid, kojic acid, coumaric acid and ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) in question.

hydrotropes

• – Glycerin
• – Alkylenglycole, wie beispielsweise Ethylenglycol, Diethylenglycol, Propylenglycol, Butylenglycol, Hexylenglycol sowie Polyethylenglycole mit einem durchschnittlichen Molekulargewicht von 100 bis 1.000 Dalton
• – technische Oligoglyceringemische mit einem Eigenkondensationsgrad von 1,5 bis 10 wie etwa technische Diglyceringemische mit einem Diglyceringehalt von 40 bis 50 Gew.-%
• – Methyolverbindungen, wie insbesondere Trimethylolethan, Trimethylolpropan, Trimethylolbutan, Pentaerythrit und Dipentaerythrit
• – Niedrigalkylglucoside, insbesondere solche mit 1 bis 8 Kohlenstoffen im Alkylrest, wie beispielsweise Methyl- und Butylglucosid
• – Zuckeralkohole mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Sorbit oder Mannit
• – Zucker mit 5 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Glucose oder Saccharose
• – Aminozucker, wie beispielsweise Glucamin
• – Dialkoholamine, wie Diethanolamin oder 2-Amino-1,3-propandiol.

Hydrotropes such as ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can also be used to improve the flow behavior. Polyols that come into consideration here preferably have 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. The polyols can also contain further functional groups, in particular amino groups, or be modified with nitrogen. Typical examples are:

• - glycerin
• - Alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols with an average molecular weight of 100 to 1,000 daltons
• Technical oligoglycerol mixtures with a degree of self-condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical diglycerol mixtures with a diglycerol content of 40 to 50% by weight
• - Methyl compounds, such as in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol
• - Lower alkyl glucosides, especially those with 1 to 8 carbons in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and butyl glucoside
• - Sugar alcohols with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol
• - Sugar with 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose
• Aminosugars such as glucamine
• - Dialcohol amines, such as diethanolamine or 2-amino-1,3-propanediol.

preservative

Suitable preservatives are, for example, phenoxyethanol, formaldehyde solution, parabens, pentanediol or sorbic acid as well as the silver ^complexes known under the name Surfacine ^® and the other classes of substances listed in Appendix 6, Parts A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation.

Perfume oils and flavors

Mixtures are mentioned as perfume oils natural and synthetic fragrances. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (anise, coriander, caraway, juniper), Fruit peels (bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (Macis, Angelica, Celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (pine, sandal, guaiac, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, Fir, pine, mountain pine), resins and balsams (Galbanum, Elemi, Benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore come animal Raw materials in question, such as civet and castoreum. typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethyl methylphenylglycinate, Allyl cyclohexyl propionate, styrallyl propionate and benzyl salicylate. Count among the ethers for example benzyl ethyl ether, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear Alkanals with 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, Hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, among the Ketones e.g. B. the Jonone, α-isomethyl ionone and Methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms. However, mixtures of different are preferred Fragrances used that together have an appealing fragrance produce. Also essential oils less Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. B. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably become bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamaldehyde, geraniol, Benzylacetone, Cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, mandarin oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, Cyclover Valley, Lavender Oil, Muscatel sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldein gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllat, irotyl and floramat alone or in mixtures, used.

For example, come as flavors Peppermint oil, spearmint, anise oil, star anise, Caraway oil, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, lemon oil, wintergreen oil, clove oil, menthol and the like in question.

dyes

The dyes which can be used are those which are suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes be det. Examples are culinary red A (CI 16255), patent blue V (CI42051), indigotine (CI73015), chlorophyllin (CI75810), quinoline yellow (CI47005), titanium dioxide (CI77891), indanthrene blue RS (CI 69800) and madder varnish (CI58000). Luminol may also be present as the luminescent dye. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, based on the mixture as a whole.

The production of the cosmetic Means can be done in all ways known to the expert. The use according to the invention of the emulsifier mixtures preferably for agents with a PIT in the range from 10 to 30 ° C. The used Emulsifiers are preferably non-ionic in nature.

The chemical nature in particular nonionic emulsifiers for temperature controlled phase inversion capable are, or non-ionic corresponding to the nature Components containing emulsifier systems can be based on specialist book knowledge and the other relevant printed material is referenced. Such emulsifiers are preferably used whose HLB values in the range from 1 to 20, in particular 6 to 20 and preferably 7 to 18. The following are accordingly some additional preferred according to the invention Determinants for brought the selection of emulsifiers or emulsifier systems.

To control and adjust the desired Range to the phase inversion temperature (PIT) to the respectively given one Mixing the agent - in particular considering the selection of the oil phase according to the type and amount as well as the loading of the aqueous phase with soluble ones Components - has multi-component emulsifier systems have been found to be helpful use. You can Mixtures may be preferred, the at least one emulsifier main component together with co-emulsifiers contain. In a preferred embodiment, again Principal emulsifier components provided that together with the suitability for temperature-controlled Phase inversion comparatively higher numerical values in the HLB range exhibit. Components with corresponding HLB values for the area from about 6 to 20, and preferably from 7 to 18, have proven to be suitable main non-ionic emulsifier components. This Main components are preferred together with more lipophilic ones Co-emulsifiers used, which - related on the respective main emulsifier component (s) - in turn have lower HLB (number) values. Usable co-emulsifiers are accordingly initially once in the number range below the previously mentioned number range for the Principal emulsifier component (s). Suitable co-emulsifiers can also be used in this range fall with their HLB value, but are then usually lower Values as the main emulsifier component (s) in admixture with their individual numerical values.

From the large range of nonionic emulsifiers, according to the invention particularly suitable main emulsifier components and / or co-emulsifiers can be assigned to at least one of the following classes of substances:
(Oligo) alkoxylates - in particular low alkoxylates, in which case corresponding ethoxylates and / or propoxylates are of particular importance - of base molecules containing lipophilic residues and capable of alkoxylation of natural and / or synthetic origin. In a known manner, the length of the alkoxylate residues in relation to the lipophilic residues present in the molecule determines the respective mixing ratio of hydrophilic and hydrophobic behavior and the associated assignment of the HLB values. As is known, alkoxylates of the stated type are non-ionic emulsifiers as such - ie with a free hydroxyl group on the alkoxylate residue, but the corresponding compounds can also be end group-sealed, for example by esterification and / or etherification.

Another important class of non-ionic Emulsifiers for the purposes of the invention are partial esters and / or partial ethers polyfunctional alcohols with in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 OH groups and / or their oligomers with acids containing lipophilic residues and / or Alcohols. Connections of these are particularly suitable Kind of additionally into their molecular structure (Oligo) alkoxy residues and, in particular, corresponding oligo ethoxy residues included included. The polyfunctional alcohols with 2 to 6 OH groups in the base molecule or the oligomers derived therefrom can in particular Diols and / or triols or their oligomerization products be special, the glycol and the glycerin or their oligomers Meaning can be. But also other polyfunctional alcohols of the type summarized here, such as trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol up to glycosides - respectively their respective oligomers - can be basic molecules for the implementation with acids and / or alcohols containing lipophilic residues, the then important emulsifier components in the sense of the invention are. The area of partial ethers of polyfunctional alcohols also known nonionic emulsifiers of the type of ethylene oxide / propylene oxide / butylene oxide block polymers assigned.

Another example of corresponding emulsifier components are alkyl (poly) glycosides of long-chain alcohols and the already mentioned fatty alcohols of natural and / or synthetic origin or alkylolamides, amine oxides and lecithins. The use of commercially available alkyl (poly) glycoside compounds (APG compounds) as emulsifier components in the sense of the invention can be particularly interesting, inter alia, because this is an emulsifier class which is particularly pronounced Eco-compatibility. For example, to control the phase inversion into the temperature ranges described according to the invention, it is also possible to use other main emulsifier components, for example nonionic surfactant compounds with a more pronounced phase inversion behavior. For example, the oligo-alkoxylate compounds already mentioned several times, in particular corresponding compounds of the oligo-ethoxylate component type, are suitable. However, it is also possible to adjust this variation of the improved controllability of the phase inversion behavior by appropriate oligoalkoxylation of the APG components itself. By suitable selection of the APG components according to type and amount as main emulsifier and co-emulsifiers, for example W / O invert emulsifiers customary today, the requirements according to the invention can also be met here without further auxiliaries having an emulsifier effect.

Without claim of completeness be from the ones listed here Substance classes of suitable emulsifier components additionally the following representatives named: The (oligo) alkoxylates of lipophilic residues containing basic molecules can different from selected ones Representatives from the following classes of lipophilic residues basic molecules derive: fatty alcohols, fatty acids, Fatty amines, fatty amines, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters and / or ethers, alkanolamides, alkylphenols and / or their reaction products with formaldehyde and others Reaction products of carrier molecules containing lipophilic residues lower alkoxides. As indicated, the respective reaction products also be at least partially closed end groups. Examples for partial esters and / or partial ethers of polyfunctional alcohols are in particular the corresponding partial esters with fatty acids, for example from Type of glycerol monoesters and / or diesters, glycol monoesters, corresponding Partial esters of oligomerized polyfunctional alcohols, sorbitan partial esters and the like and corresponding compounds with ether groups. Such partial esters and / or ethers can, in particular, also base molecules for an (oligo) alkoxylation his.

As stated earlier, is an essential determining element for the teaching according to the invention, that the Emulsifiers / emulsifier systems in their use amount in the cosmetic Means are matched to the proportion of oil phase present here. preferred Amounts of emulsifier are accordingly in the range of 1% by weight or more, preferably in the range from 5 to 60% by weight, based in each case on the oil phase.

That the quantity ratio of The main emulsifier to the secondary component is preferably in Range from 10: 1 to 2: 1. The compounds described above can be used as oil phases used alone or in any mixes. Prefers is the use of emulsifier mixtures containing a hydrogenated Castor oil, which was reacted with 7 parts of ethylene oxide as the main component and as a minor component a fatty alcohol with 12 parts of ethylene oxide was implemented.

In another embodiment cosmetic emulsion are claimed, which an oil and a Contain water phase, mixtures as emulsifiers according to the above Description can be used. These emulsions have a phase inversion in the temperature range of -5 ° C up to 45 ° C on, preferably in the temperature range of 10 to 30 ° C.

example 1

An emulsion with the following ingredients (INCI) was produced: Emulsifier mixture: PEG-7 hydrogenated castor oil 6.00% by weight Cetheareth 12 1.00% by weight Glyceryl oleates 1.00% by weight Oil phase: Dicapryl carbonate 10.00% by weight octyldodecanol 6.00% by weight Rest of water

Example 2

emulsifier: PEG-4 polyglyceryl-2 stearates 5.40% by weight Glyceryl oleates 2.60% by weight

Oil phase: Dicapryl carbonate 16.00% by weight Rest of water

Claims (12)

Use of emulsifier mixtures for the production of cosmetic compositions which contain an aqueous and a non-aqueous phase, characterized in that the composition has a phase inversion temperature (PIT) in the range from -5 ° C to 45 ° C. Use according to claim 1, characterized in that that in the emulsifier mixtures are used nonionic emulsifiers Use according to claims 1 and 2, characterized in that that the Emulsifier mixtures in addition to a main component at least one Minor component included. Use according to claims 1 to 3, characterized in that that the Emulsifiers main component selected is from compounds whose HLB value in the range from 1 to 20, in particular 6 to 20 and preferably in the range of 7 to 18. Use according to claims 1 to 4, characterized in that that the Emulsifiers sub-component has an HLB value in the range of 6 to 20, with the proviso that the HLB value of the secondary component is smaller than the HLB value of the Main component. Use according to claims 1 to 5, characterized in that that this ratio from major to minor component is in the range of 10: 1 to 2: 1. Use according to claims 1 to 6, characterized in that that the Emulsifiers are selected from the groups of (a) (Oligo) alkoxylates - especially ethoxylates and / or Propoxylate - from natural base molecules containing lipophilic residues and capable of alkoxylation and / or of synthetic origin, the alkoxylates also being end-capped could be, (B) Partial esters and / or partial ethers of polyfunctional alcohols with in particular 2 to 6 carbon atoms and 2 to 6 OH groups and / or their Oligomers with lipophilic residues containing acids and / or alcohols, too (Oligo) alkoxylate residues - in particular corresponding oligo-ethoxylate residues - in the molecular structure can contain built-in, (C) Alkyl (poly) glycosides of long-chain alcohols, (d) fatty alcohols natural and / or synthetic origin, Use according to claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the oil phases of the emulsions are selected from the group: Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 C atoms, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols or esters of branched C ₆ -C ₁₃ carboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acids with branched alcohols, esters of C ₁₈ -C ₃₈ -alkyl hydroxycarboxylic acids with linear or branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, esters of linear and / or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, linear and branched C ₆ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol carbonates, Guerbet carbonates Based on fatty alcohols with 6 to 18 carbon atoms, linear or branched, symmetrical or unsymmetrical dialkyl ethers with 6 to 22 carbon atoms per alkyl group, silicone oils and carbon dioxide sserstoffe. Use according to claims 1 to 8, characterized in that that dialkyl carbonates used as the oil phase become. Use according to claims 1 to 9, characterized in that that as Emulsifier mixture a mixture of hydrogenated castor oil, which was reacted with 7 parts of ethylene oxide as the main component and as a minor component a fatty alcohol with 12 parts of ethylene oxide was implemented, is used. Cosmetic emulsion containing one oil and one Water phase, characterized in that mixtures are used as emulsifiers according to claim 1 can be used. Cosmetic emulsion according to claim 11, characterized in that that the Emulsion a reversible phase inversion in the temperature range of -5 ° C to Passes through 45 ° C, preferably in the temperature range from 10 to 30 ° C.