DE10229812A1 - Foaming cosmetic gel - Google Patents

Abstract

Post-foaming cosmetic gel on an aqueous basis for delivery from an aerosol container, containing in a conventional aqueous base preparation DOLLAR A a) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts, phosphoric acid esters and salts, ethoxylated and nonethoxylated sulfonic acids and salts, and that of the ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated fatty acids with 12-22 carbon atoms in the form of their alkali soaps DOLLAR A b) one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. DOLLAR A c) 1 to 90 vol .-%, based on the total volume of the preparation, consists of a gas (= primary blowing agent) selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, laughing gas (N¶2¶O) and Carbon dioxide (CO¶2¶), and DOLLAR A d) a secondary propellant selected from the group of aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane and isobutane, the preparation being in a container which is pressurized by the primary propellant is so that the preparation is released when opening this container.

Description

The invention relates to an after-foaming cosmetic cleansing gel, in particular shower gels or hand soap gels but also bath concentrates for delivery from an aerosol container.

Cosmetic and dermatological cleaning formulations are known, which are packaged in pressurized gas containers and which foam their cleaning formulation independently after application. These formulations consist of a low-viscosity, surfactant-containing cleaning solution, which is converted into a cleaning gel by pressurization with volatile gases ( DE-OS 38 39 349 ).

So far it was due to the bad solubilities only very unsatisfactory Strength or starch derivatives to incorporate into these formulations. Can this be done through solution brokers Use and long training periods occurred in the risers the application container and often in the valve area to blockages (reagglumeration / failure) and thus to total failure of the products.

Such foaming cosmetic gels are when using first with the help of an application agent in gel form from the aerosol container applied to the skin and develop there only after a short delay the influence of the post-foaming agent contained the actual Foam. The advantage of these compositions over the known finished cosmetic foams that are already foamed out the aerosol container applied to the skin means better wetting of the skin.

Post-foaming cosmetic gels are known in principle. The U.S. Patent 3,541 , names water, soap (ie water-soluble salts of higher fatty acids), gel structure formers and post-foaming agents as essential components of such a composition. The addition of cosmetic active ingredients and auxiliaries is furthermore expedient, but not absolutely necessary. It has also been suggested ( U.S. Patent 4,405,489 ) to dispense with a gel structure former, but in this case a special and complex process for the production and filling of such gel compositions is required.

Specifically, the post-foaming gel composition contains the one mentioned above U.S. Patent 3,541,581 40-90% by weight of water, 4-25% by weight of water-soluble soap, 0.5-12% by weight of post-foaming agent and 0.01-5% by weight of gelling agent. Water-soluble derivatives of cellulose, sucrose and glucose are used as gel formers, in particular copolymers of acrylic acid and polyallylsucrose or the reaction products of cellulose or glucose with acids or alkylene oxides.

In order to improve the flow properties when dispensing from the aerosol container, the DE-OS 24 13 122 propose to choose a water content in the upper range (75-90% by weight) and a soap content in the lower range (5-15% by weight, preferably 5-9% by weight) of the aforementioned composition.

The post-foaming described However, cosmetic gel compositions are particularly useful decisive disadvantages of the production: As a post-foaming agent aliphatic hydrocarbons are used, preferably n-butane, pentanes and Hexanes. These compounds are flammable and form explosive mixtures with air. Therefore, there is an increased effort for explosion protection during production and similar Safety measures required.

Object of the present invention It was therefore a post-foaming cosmetic that corresponded to practical requirements Gel composition, to create that as a post-foaming agent contains a connection that is not explosive in the air mixture and thus enables a problem-free and at the same time also cheaper production.

The object of the invention was furthermore on the basis of the after-foaming cosmetic Gel composition of other after-foaming cosmetic products to disposal to provide, for example, an after-foaming gel for skin care or for skin cleansing.

This task was surprisingly through the use of a special new gel structuring mixture as well as adapted modified Amounts used by the rest Components solved.

• a) ein oder mehrere Aniontenside gewählt aus der Gruppe der Acylaminosäuren und deren Salze, der Phosphorsäureester und Salze, der ethoxylierten und nichteethoxylierten Sulfonsäuren und Salze, und der der ethoxylierten und nichteethoxylierten Fettsäuren mit 12–22 C-Atomen in Form ihrer Alkaliseifen
• b) ein oder mehrere vorgelatinisierte, quervernetzte Stärkederivate.
• c) 5 bis 300 Vol.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtvolumen der Zubereitung, eines Gases (= Primärtreibmittel), gewählt aus der Gruppe Luft, Sauerstoff, Stickstoff, Helium, Argon, Lachgas (N₂O) und Kohlendioxid (CO₂)
• d) ein Sekundärtreibmittel, gewählt aus der Gruppe der aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffe, wie zum Beispiel n-Pentan, Isopentan und Isobutan, bestehen, wobei die Zubereitung in einem Behältnis vorliegt, welches durch das Primärtreibmittel unter Druck gesetzt wird, so daß die Zubereitung beim Öffnen dieses Behältnisses in Freiheit gesetzt wird.

The invention therefore relates to an after-foaming cosmetic gel on an aqueous base for delivery from an aerosol container, which contains a conventional aqueous base preparation

• a) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts, the phosphoric acid esters and salts, the ethoxylated and nonethoxylated sulfonic acids and salts, and that of the ethoxylated and nonethoxylated fatty acids with 12-22 carbon atoms in the form of their alkali soaps
• b) one or more pre-gelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives.
• c) 5 to 300% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of a gas (= primary blowing agent) selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ )
• d) a secondary propellant selected from the group of aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane and isobutane, the preparation being in a container which is pressurized by the primary propellant so that the preparation opens when it is opened Container is set free.

For the purposes of the present invention, “self-foaming” or “foam-shaped” is to understand that the gas bubbles (arbitrarily) distributed in one (or more) liquid phase (s), the preparations macroscopically not necessarily that Must have the appearance of a foam. Self-foaming and / or foamy cosmetic or dermatological preparations can e.g. B. macroscopically visible dispersed systems from in liquids represent dispersed gases.

The foam character can, for example only become visible under a (light) microscope. Furthermore are post-foaming preparations according to the invention - in particular then when the gas bubbles are too small to be recognized under a light microscope - even at the strong increase in volume of the system can be seen.

Surprisingly the very fine foam makes it very even and thin distribution of the product on the skin. This leads to a watery one Cleaning product unusual extraordinarily pleasant smooth and velvety skin feeling during and after application of the product. The preparations according to the invention are therefore extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect.

It is beneficial the water content the post-foaming according to the invention to limit cosmetic gel composition to a maximum of 75% by weight, preferred is a water content of 45 to 65 wt .-%.

• 1. Acylglutamate, beispielsweise Natriumacylglutamat, Di-TEA-palmitoylaspartat und Natrium Caprylic/ Capric Glutamat,
• 2. Acylpeptide, beispielsweise Palmitoyl-hydrolysiertes Milchprotein, Natrium Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Soja Protein und Natrium-/ Kalium-Cocoyl-hydrolysiertes Kollagen,
• 3. Sarcosinate, beispielsweise Myristoyl Sarcosin, TEA-lauroyl Sarcosinat, Natriumlauroylsarcosinat und Natriumcocoylsarkosinat,
• 4. Taurate, beispielsweise Natriumlauroyltaurat und Natriummethylcocoyltaurat,
• 5. Acyllactylate, Lauroyllactylat, Caproyllactylat

The acylamino acids (and their salts) can advantageously be selected from the group

• 1. acylglutamates, for example sodium acylglutamate, di-TEA-palmitoylaspartate and sodium caprylic / capric glutamate,
• 2. acyl peptides, for example palmitoyl-hydrolyzed milk protein, sodium cocoyl-hydrolyzed soy protein and sodium / potassium-cocoyl-hydrolyzed collagen,
• 3. sarcosinates, for example myristoyl sarcosin, TEA lauroyl sarcosinate, sodium lauroyl sarcosinate and sodium cocoyl sarcosinate,
• 4. taurates, for example sodium lauroyl taurate and sodium methyl cocoyl taurate,
• 5. Acyl lactylate, lauroyl lactylate, caproyl lactylate

6. Alaninate

• 1. Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Laurinsäure, Aluminiumstearat, Magnesiumalkanolat und Zinkundecylenat,
• 2. Ester-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Calciumstearoyllactylat, Laureth-6-Citrat und Natrium PEG-4-Lauramidcarboxylat,
• 3. Ether-Carbonsäuren, beispielsweise Natriumlaureth-13-Carboxylat und Natrium PEG-6-Cocamide Carboxylat,

The carboxylic acids and derivatives can advantageously be selected from the group

• 1. carboxylic acids, for example lauric acid, aluminum stearate, magnesium alkanolate and zinc undecylenate,
• 2. ester carboxylic acids, for example calcium stearoyl lactylate, laureth-6 citrate and sodium PEG-4 lauramide carboxylate,
• 3. ether carboxylic acids, for example sodium laureth-13 carboxylate and sodium PEG-6 cocamide carboxylate,

The phosphoric acid esters and salts can be advantageous chosen are selected from the group DEA-oleth-10-phosphate and dilaureth-4-phosphate,

• 1. Acyl-isethionate, z.B. Natrium-/ Ammoniumcocoyl-isethionat,
• 2. Alkylarylsulfonate,
• 3. Alkylsulfonate, beispielsweise Natriumcocosmonoglyceridsulfat, Natrum C_12–14 Olefin-sulfonat, Natriumlaurylsulfoacetat und Magnesium PEG-3 Cocamidsulfat,
• 4. Sulfosuccinate, beispielsweise Dioctylnatriumsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurethsulfosuccinat, Dinatriumlaurylsulfosuccinat und Dinatriumundecylenamido-MEA-Sulfosuccinat

The sulfonic acids and salts can advantageously be selected from the group

• 1. acyl isethionate, for example sodium / ammonium cocoyl isethionate,
• 2. alkylarylsulfonates,
• 3. alkyl sulfonates, for example sodium coconut monoglyceride sulfate, sodium C _12-14 olefin sulfonate, sodium lauryl sulfoacetate and magnesium PEG-3 cocamide sulfate,
• 4. Sulfosuccinates, for example dioctyl sodium sulfosuccinate, disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate and disodium undecylenamido MEA sulfosuccinate

• 1. Alkylethersulfat, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium-, Magnesium-, MIPA-, TIPA- Laurethsulfat, Natriummyrethsulfat und Natrium C_12–13-Parethsulfat,
• 2. Alkylsulfate, beispielsweise Natrium-, Ammonium- und TEA-Laurylsulfat.

The sulfuric acid esters can advantageously be selected from the group

• 1. alkyl ether sulfate, for example sodium, ammonium, magnesium, MIPA, TIPA laureth sulfate, sodium myreth sulfate and sodium C _12-13 pareth sulfate,
• 2. Alkyl sulfates, for example sodium, ammonium and TEA lauryl sulfate.

It is advantageous according to the invention if one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives in a concentration of 0.1 to 20% by weight, preferably in a concentration of 0.3 to 15% by weight and very particularly preferably in a concentration of 0.5 up to 10% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparation contained in the preparations according to the invention.

It is particularly advantageous according to the invention if hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used as the pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. Starch derivatives such as those in the US 6,248,338 be described, particularly advantageous hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate. The use of a hydroxypropyl distarch phosphate, as sold as the Product Structure® XL by National Starch, is very particularly preferred.

The post-foaming composition according to the invention preferred additionally 0.5 - 6.5 % By weight of one or more further thickeners, for example Alkanolamides and their derivatives. These connections can partially additionally have a skin-care effect. According to the invention, the is particularly preferred Use from 0.5 - 3.0 % By weight of fatty acid diethanolamide, diethanolamide of coconut fatty acid is particularly preferred, and 0.5-3.5% by weight Laureth-2-amide-MEA (Aminol TM A15 from Chem-Y) each alone or as a mixture.

Furthermore, the post-foaming gel composition according to the invention can additionally small amounts more common cosmetic additives and auxiliaries, e.g. Perfume, preservative, or dyes and skin care substances such as Proteins, especially sericin, in amounts up to 0.2 wt .-%. These additions are for execution the ending is not absolutely necessary.

Another embodiment of the invention relates an after-foaming cosmetic gel for cleaning and / or care of the skin on the Base of an aqueous soap gel for delivery from an aerosol container, this in an analogous manner from the components described above consists. Such a gel contains preferably additionally usual skin care compatible with the gel formulation or skin cleansing substances such as fatty acid esters or collagen derivatives.

The production of the post-foaming according to the invention Cosmetic gels are made in a heatable or coolable kettle with an agitator. This mixer must be pressure and vacuum resistant, especially should he allow work at pressures of at least 3 bar.

The soap body is at elevated temperature, preferably at 80 to 90 ° C formed by the melted fatty acid of the aqueous solution of the saponifier and added the sugar alcohol becomes. Here is the stirring speed just as in the subsequent further process on the viscosity of the process material to vote in such a way that always a gentle but sufficient mixing is guaranteed. The for necessitate the mixing process stirrer speeds hang, as is known to those skilled in the art, on the type of boiler used and in particular on the type of agitator used. in case of a Ankerrühnnrerks have, for example, speeds of preferably 10 to 300 Rpm, especially 20-40 RPM proved to be suitable.

After the soap body is formed, leave cool to room temperature and sets the remaining components while the cooling phase preferably in the following order:

• - thicken
• - Further Gel-forming component (s)
• - dyes
• - Perfume
• - possibly. drugs
• - solvent component of the post-foaming agent (Secondary blowing agent)
• - LPG component of the post-foaming agent (Primary propellant).

Bottling in the inner chamber of a usual Two-chamber aerosol container with a second, outer chamber for the Application agent then takes place either at temperatures below room temperature (i.e. less than 20 ° C) or in a closed printing system.

In another embodiment the mixing process is stopped before adding the driving gas component and the propellant gas component only during the filling process added to the residual gel.

In another embodiment the mixing process is ended before the solvent component is added and solvent component and propellant gas component added separately or together during filling.

All can be used as spreading agents For this Purpose usual and use compressed gases and gas mixtures known to the person skilled in the art. However, in this step too the advantage of being comparatively easy To obtain processing, it is advantageous for the post-foaming cosmetic according to the invention Gel use a non-combustible gas or gas mixture as a spreading agent. Preferred according to the invention is therefore the use of air, nitrogen or chlorofluorocarbons.

The invention described above provides an after-foaming cosmetic gel composition which, through the use of a novel gel structure-forming mixture, leads to a product which, with a good lubricity of the razor, compared to previously known products with regard to the skin-care effect and Skin feeling after shaving was better assessed by users. In addition, the gel composition according to the invention offers the large one Advantage that it does not contain any flammable and explosive post-foaming agent in the air mixture and thus enables simpler, safer and cheaper production.

Surfactants are amphiphilic substances that can dissolve organic, non-polar substances in water. They are caused by their specific molecular structure with at least one hydrophilic and one hydrophobic part of the molecule, for a reduction the surface tension of water, wetting the skin, facilitating dirt removal and solution, a gentle rinse and ever as desired - for foam regulation.

The hydrophilic parts of a surfactant molecule are mostly polar functional groups, for example -COO ^- , -OSO ₃ ^{2 -} , -SO ₃ ^- , while the hydrophobic parts generally represent non-polar hydrocarbon radicals. Surfactants are generally classified according to the type and charge of the hydrophilic part of the molecule. There are four groups:

• - anionic surfactants,
• - cationic surfactants,
• - amphoteric Surfactants and
• - non-ionic Surfactants.

Anionic surfactants generally have carboxylate, sulfate or sulfonate groups as functional groups. In aqueous solution they form negatively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Cationic surfactants are characterized almost exclusively by the presence of a quaternary ammonium group. In aqueous solution, they form positively charged organic ions in an acidic or neutral environment. Amphoteric surfactants contain both anionic and cationic groups and accordingly behave in aqueous solution like anionic or cationic surfactants depending on the pH. They have a positive charge in a strongly acidic environment and a negative charge in an alkaline environment. In the neutral pH range, however, they are zwitterionic, as the following example should illustrate:
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH X ^- (at pH = 2) X ^- = any anion, e.g. Cl ^-
RNH ₂ ⁺ CH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- (at pH = 7)
RNHCH ₂ CH ₂ COO ^- B ⁺ (at pH = 12) B ⁺ = any cation, e.g. Na ⁺

Are typical for non-ionic surfactants Polyether chains. Non-ionic surfactants form in an aqueous medium no ions.

A. Anionic surfactants

Anionic to be used advantageously Are surfactants

B. Cationic surfactants

• 1. Alkylamine,
• 2. Alkylimidazole,
• 3. Ethoxylierte Amine und
• 4. Quaternäre Tenside.
• 5. Esterquats

Cationic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alkylamines,
• 2. alkylimidazoles,
• 3. Ethoxylated amines and
• 4. Quaternary surfactants.
• 5. Esterquats

Quaternary surfactants contain at least an N atom covalently linked to 4 alkyl and / or aryl groups is. This leads to, independently from the pH value to a positive charge. Advantageous quaternary surfactants are Alkyl betaine, alkyl amidopropyl betaine and alkyl amidopropyl hydroxysulfain. Cationic surfactants can also be used are preferably chosen in the sense of the present invention from the group of quaternaries Ammonium compounds, especially benzyltrialkylammonium chlorides or bromides, such as, for example, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chloride, further alkyltrialkylammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide, alkyldimethylhydroxyethylammonium chlorides or bromides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides or bromides, alkylamidethyltrimethylammonium ether sulfates, alkylpyridinium salts, for example lauryl or cetyl pyrimidinium chloride, imidazoline derivatives and compounds with a cationic character such as amine oxides, for example Alkyldimethylamine oxides or alkylaminoethyldimethylamine oxides. Advantageous especially cetyltrimethylammonium salts are to be used.

C. Amphoteric surfactants

• 1. Acyl-/dialkylethylendiamin, beispielsweise Natriumacylamphoacetat, Dinatriumacylamphodipropionat, Dinatriumalkylamphodiacetat, Natriumacylamphohydroxypropylsulfonat, Dinatriumacylamphodiacetat und Natriumacylamphopropionat,
• 2. N-Alkylaminosäuren, beispielsweise Aminopropylalkylglutamid, Alkylaminopropionsäure, Natriumalkylimidodipropionat und Lauroamphocarboxyglycinat.

Amphoteric surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. Acyl- / dialkylethylenediamine, for example sodium acylamphoacetate, disodium acylamphodipropionate, disodium alkylamphodiacetate, sodium acylamphohydroxypropylsulfonate, disodium acylamphodiacetate and sodium acyl,
• 2. N-alkylamino acids, for example aminopropylalkylglutamide, alkylaminopropionic acid, sodium alkylimidodipropionate and lauroamphocarboxyglycinate.

D. Non-ionic surfactants

• 1. Alkohole,
• 2. Alkanolamide, wie Cocamide MEA/ DEA/ MIPA,
• 3. Aminoxide, wie Cocoamidopropylaminoxid,
• 4. Ester, die durch Veresterung von Carbonsäuren mit Ethylenoxid, Glycerin, Sorbitan oder anderen Alkoholen entstehen,
• 5. Ether, beispielsweise ethoxylierte/propoxylierte Alkohole, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Ester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Glycerinester, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Cholesterine, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Triglyceridester, ethoxyliertes propoxyliertes Lanolin, ethoxylierte/ propoxylierte Polysiloxane, propoxylierte POE-Ether und Alkylpolyglycoside wie Laurylglucosid, Decylglycosid und Cocoglycosid.
• 6. Sucroseester, -Ether
• 7 Polyglycerinester, Diglycerinester, Monoglycerinester
• 8. Methylglucosester, Ester von Hydroxysäuren

Non-ionic surfactants to be used advantageously

• 1. alcohols,
• 2. alkanolamides, such as cocamides MEA / DEA / MIPA,
• 3. amine oxides, such as cocoamidopropylamine oxide,
• 4. esters which are formed by esterification of carboxylic acids with ethylene oxide, glycerol, sorbitan or other alcohols,
• 5. ethers, for example ethoxylated / propoxylated alcohols, ethoxylated / propoxylated esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated glycerol esters, ethoxylated / propoxylated cholesterols, ethoxylated / propoxylated triglyceride esters, ethoxylated propoxylated lanolin, ethoxylated / propoxylated polysiloxanes, propoxylated POE ethers and alkylpolyglycosides such as lauryl polyglycosides cocoglycoside.
• 6. sucrose esters, ether
• 7 polyglycerol esters, diglycerol esters, monoglycerol esters
• 8. Methyl glucose esters, esters of hydroxy acids

The total concentration of surfactants is advantageously in the range from 0.5 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, particularly preferably 5-15 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The total concentration of the entered Gases (primary agent) is advantageously 5-300% by weight, preferably 100-300 % By weight, particularly preferably 200-300% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

The total concentration of the entered Secondary propellant is advantageous 0.5 - 30 % By weight, preferably 1-20 % By weight, particularly preferably 3-15% by weight, based on the Total weight of the preparations.

It can be beneficial if necessary be preparations according to the invention even more Gelling agent or thickener, also: adding "hydrocolloids".

"Hydrocolloid" is the technological short name for the more correct term "hydrophilic colloid". Hydrocolloids are macromolecules that are largely linear in shape and have intermolecular interaction forces that allow side and main valence bonds between the individual molecules and thus the formation of a network-like structure. Some of them are water-soluble natural or synthetic polymers that form gels or viscous solutions in aqueous systems. They increase the viscosity of the water by either binding water molecules (hydration) or by absorbing and enveloping the water in their intertwined macromolecules, while at the same time restricting the mobility of the water. Such water-soluble polymers represent a large group of chemically very different natural and synthetic polymers, the common feature of which is their solubility in water or aqueous media. The prerequisite for this is that these polymers have a sufficient number of hydrophilic groups for water solubility and are not too strongly crosslinked. The hydrophilic groups can be nonionic, anionic or cationic in nature, for example as follows:

The group of cosmetically and dermatologically relevant hydrocolloids break down as follows:

• - organic, natural Compounds such as agar-agar, carrageenan, tragacanth, Gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, locust bean gum, Strength, Dextrins, gelatin, casein,
• - organic, modified natural substances, such as B. carboxymethyl cellulose and others Cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propyl cellulose and the like,
• - organic, fully synthetic compounds, such as B. polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic Polyethers, polyimines, polyamides,
• - inorganic Connections such as B. polysilicic acids, clay minerals such as montmorillonites, Zeolites, silicas.

in der R ein Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe darstellen kann.Hydrocolloids preferred according to the invention are, for example, methyl celluloses, as the methyl ethers of cellulose are referred to. They are characterized by the following structural formula

in which R can represent a hydrogen or a methyl group.

Particularly advantageous in the sense of the present invention are also generally as methyl celluloses designated mixed cellulose ether, which in addition to a dominant Additional methyl content Contain 2-hydroxyethyl, 2-hydroxypropyl or 2-hydroxybutyl groups. Especially preferred are (hydroxypropyl) methyl celluloses, for example those under the trade name Methocel E4M from Dow Chemical Comp. available.

Also advantageous according to the invention is sodium carboxymethyl cellulose, the sodium salt of the glycolic acid ether of cellulose, for which R in structural formula I can be a hydrogen and / or CH ₂ COONa. Particularly preferred is the sodium carboxymethyl cellulose available under the trade name Natrosol Plus 330 CS from Aqualon, also referred to as cellulose gum.

Advantageous additional gelling agent For the purposes of the present invention, carrageenan is also a gel-forming and similar like agar-based extract from North Atlantic, to the florids counting Red algae (Chondrus crispus and Gigartina stellata).

The term carrageen is often used for the dried algae product and carrageenan for the extract from it. The carrageenan precipitated from the hot water extract of the algae is a colorless to sand-colored powder with a molecular weight range of 100,000-800,000 and a sul fat content of approx. 25%. Carrageenan that dissolves very easily in warm water. is; a thixotropic gel forms on cooling, even if the water content is 95-98%. The firmness of the gel is brought about by the double helix structure of the carrageenan. There are three main components in canageenan: The gel-forming κ fraction consists of D-galactose-4-sulfate and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose, which are alternately glycosidically linked in the 1,3- and 1,4-positions (In contrast, agar contains 3,6-anhydro-α-L galactose). The non-gelling λ fraction is composed of 1,3-glycosidically linked D-galactose-2-sulfate and 1,4-linked D-galactose-2,6-disulfate residues u. Easily soluble in cold water. The ι-carrageenan composed of D-galactose-4-sulfate in 1,3-bond and 3,6-anhydro-α-D-galactose-2-sulfate in 1,4-bond is both water-soluble and gel-forming. Other types of carrageenan are also designated with Greek letters: α, β, γ, μ, ν, ξ, π, ω, χ. The type of cations present (K ⁺ , NH ₄ ⁺ , Na ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ ) also influences the solubility of the carrageenans.

The use of chitosan in cosmetic Preparations are known per se. Chitosan is a partially deacylated Chitin. This biopolymer has i.a. film-forming properties and is characterized by a silky feeling on the skin. The disadvantage, however its strong stickiness on the skin, particularly - temporarily - during the Application occurs. Appropriate preparations can then not be marketable in individual cases because they are from the consumer not accepted or judged negatively. Chitosan is known for example used in hair care. It works better than him underlying chitin, as a thickener or stabilizer and improved the adhesion and water resistance of polymeric films. Representing a variety from prior art references: H. P. Fiedler, "Lexikon of auxiliaries for Pharmacy, Cosmetics and Adjacent Areas ", third edition 1989, Editio Cantor, Aulendorf, p. 293, keyword "Chitosan".

dabei nimmt n Werte bis zu ca. 10.000 an, X stellt entweder den Acetylrest oder Wasserstoff dar. Chitosan entsteht durch Deacetylierung und teilweise Depolymerisation (Hydrolyse) von Chitin, welches durch die Strukturformel

gekennzeichnet ist. Chitin ist wesentlicher Bestandteil des Ektoskeletts ['o χιτwν = grch.: der Panzerrock] der Gliederfüßer (z.B. Insekten, Krebse, Spinnen) und wird auch in Stützgeweben anderer Organismen (z.B. Weichtiere, Algen, Pilze) gefunden.Chitosan is characterized by the following structural formula:

n assumes values up to approx. 10,000, X represents either the acetyl radical or hydrogen. Chitosan is formed by deacetylation and partial depolymerization (hydrolysis) of chitin, which is due to the structural formula

is marked. Chitin is an essential component of the ectoskeleton ['o χιτwν = grch .: the pectoral rock] of the arthropods (e.g. insects, crabs, spiders) and is also found in supporting tissues of other organisms (e.g. molluscs, algae, fungi).

In the range of approximately pH <6, chitosan is positively charged and is also soluble in aqueous systems. It is not compatible with anionic raw materials. The use of nonionic emulsifiers is therefore suitable for the production of chitosan-containing oil-in-water emulsions. These are known per se, for example from the EP-A 776 657 ,

Chitosans with a degree of deacetylation> 25%, in particular> 55 to 99% [determined by ¹ H-NMR] are preferred according to the invention.

It is advantageous to choose chitosans with molecular weights between 10,000 and 1,000,000 ins especially those with molecular weights between 100,000 and 1,000,000. [determined by gel permeation chromatography].

The total amount of one or more Hydrocolloids are used in the finished cosmetic or dermatological Preparations advantageously less than 1.5% by weight, preferably between 0.1 and 1.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparations, selected.

The cosmetic and dermatological invention Preparations can Contain cosmetic auxiliaries, as is usually the case in such preparations be used, e.g. Preservatives, bactericides, perfumes, substances to prevent foaming, Dyes, pigments that have a coloring Have effect thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing Substances, fats, oils, waxes or other usual Components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

An additional content of antioxidants is generally preferred. According to the invention, all of them can be cheap antioxidants for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications suitable or customary Antioxidants are used, the water soluble or water-dispersible antioxidants are preferred.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-camosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (e.g. anserine), carotenoids, caroline (e.g. α-carotene, β-carotene, Ψ-lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and their derivatives, lipoic acid and their derivatives (e.g. dihydroliponic acid), aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (e.g. Thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and their derivatives (esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (e.g. buthioninsulfoximines, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthioninsulfones, penta-, penta-, penta- Heptathioninsulfoximine) in very low tolerable doses (e.g. pmol to μmol / kg), also (metal) chelators (e.g. α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (e.g. citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid , Biliary extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (e.g. γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and their derivatives, furfurylidene sorbitol and its derivatives, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, vitamin C and Derivatives (e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. vitamin E acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate) as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid , Furfurylidene glucitol, carnosine, butylated hydroxytoluene, butylated hydroxyanisole, nordihydroguajak resin acid, nordihydroguajaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid e and their derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the derivatives (salts, Esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active ingredients.

The amount of the aforementioned antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 20% by weight, in particular 1 to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

If vitamin E and / or its Derivatives that are antioxidants are advantageous their respective concentrations in the range of 0.001-10% by weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

If vitamin A or vitamin A derivatives, or carotenes or their derivatives represent the antioxidant (s), is advantageous, their respective concentrations from the range from 0.001 - 10 % By weight, based on the total weight of the formulation.

According to the invention, it is preferred the used according to the invention Active ingredient combinations or cosmetic or dermatological preparations, to add such active ingredient combinations containing complexing agents.

Complexing agents are known per se Auxiliaries in cosmetology and medical galenics. By the complexation of disruptive Metals such as Mn, Fe, Cu and others can, for example, undesirable chemical Reactions in cosmetic or dermatological preparations prevented become.

Complexing agents, especially chelators, form complexes with metal atoms, which if one or several polybasic complexing agents, i.e. chelators, metallacycles represent. Chelates are compounds in which a single Ligand occupies more than one coordination site on a central atom. In this case, connections are usually elongated through complex formation over a metal atom or ion closed to form rings. The number of bound Ligand hangs on the coordination number of the central metal. requirement for the Chelation is that compound reacting with the metal two or more atomic groups contains that act as electron donors.

The complexing agent or complexing agents can be advantageous from the group of the usual Connections are selected, preferably at least one substance from the group from tartaric acid and their anions, citric acid and their anions, aminopolycarboxylic acids and their anions (such as for example ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its anions, nitrilotriacetic (NTA) and their anions, hydroxyethylenediaminotrieslacetic acid (HOEDTA) and their anions, diethylene aminopentaacetic acid (DPTA) and their anions, trans-1,2-diaminocyclohexanetetraacetic acid (CDTA) and its anions).

The complexing agent (s) are advantageous according to the invention preferred in cosmetic or dermatological preparations 0.01% by weight to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05% by weight to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-2.0 % By weight, based on the total weight of the preparations.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations. Formulation Examples:

Claims (4)

Post-foaming cosmetic gel on aqueous for delivery from an aerosol container containing a) one or more anionic surfactants selected from the group of acylamino acids and their salts, the phosphoric acid esters and salts, the ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated sulfonic acids and salts, and that of the ethoxylated and non-ethoxylated fatty acids with 12-22 carbon atoms in the form of their alkali soaps b) one or more pregelatinized, crosslinked starch derivatives. c) 5 to 300% by volume, based on the total volume of the preparation, of a gas (= primary blowing agent) selected from the group consisting of air, oxygen, nitrogen, helium, argon, nitrous oxide (N ₂ O) and carbon dioxide (CO ₂ ) d) a secondary propellant selected from the group of aliphatic hydrocarbons, such as n-pentane, isopentane and isobutane, the preparation being in a container which is pressurized by the primary propellant so that the preparation opens when it is opened Container in Freedom is set. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivatives hydroxypropylated phosphate esters are used. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivative hydroxypropyl is used. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that as pregelatinized, cross-linked starch derivative hydroxypropyl (CAS number 113894-92-1) is used.