DE10208678A1 - Polyurethane foam product for cosmetic or dermatological use comprises the in situ reaction product of a urethane prepolymer with an aqueous dispersion containing selected active ingredients - Google Patents

Abstract

Polyurethane foam product for cosmetic or dermatological use comprises the in situ reaction product of a urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups with an aqueous dispersion of a fatty substance containing a surfactant and at least one active ingredient selected from 15 specified categories. Polyurethane foam product for cosmetic or dermatological use comprises the in situ reaction product of a urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups with an aqueous dispersion of a fatty substance containing a surfactant and at least one active ingredient selected from 15 specified categories. Flexible polyurethane foam product for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin, hair, mucosa and skin appendages comprises the in-situ reaction product of a urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups with an aqueous dispersion of a fatty substance containing a surfactant and at least one active ingredient selected from: (a) cellulose ethers, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-24, guar gum, cationic guar derivatives, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gum, dextran, shellac, amylose, amylopectin, dextrin, chemically and/or thermally modified starch, chitosan and chitosan derivatives; (b) non-superabsorbent water-swellable synthetic polymers; (c) alpha -hydroxy carboxylic acids and their derivatives; (d) B, C and H vitamins and provitamins and their derivatives; (e) plant extracts, including meristem extracts and extracts of green tea, hamamelis, chamomile, sage, cinnamon, nettle, hops, almond, coconut, mango, wheat, orange, mallow ginseng, ginger and olives (many others listed); (f) extracts of seaweed and microorganisms; (g) antiperspirants selected from astringent water-soluble aluminum, zinc and zirconium salts; (h) deodorants; (i) silicic acid, natural and synthetic silicates, aluminosilicates, kaolin, talc and apatite, optionally modified with aqueous 2-3C carboxylic acids; (j) pigments selected from titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, cerium, magnesium and bismuth oxides (optionally surface-modified), boron nitride, pearlescers and organic pigments; (k) organic photoprotective filters; (l) abrasives selected from polymer particles and plant-derived abrasives, optionally coated with fatty substances; (m) dyes and oxidation dyes or precursors for dyeing keratinic fibers; (n) oxidizing and reducing agents; or (o) sebum-regulating, skin-soothing, antiinflammatory, astringent or circulation-promoting agents.

Description

The present invention relates to flexible, fine-pored, liquid-equipped Sponges based on a polyurethane foam, which are characterized as in situ reaction product a urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups and an aqueous phase, the at least one surface-active substance and cosmetic or dermatological Active ingredients or care substances containing. The sponges are used for cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin, hair, mucous membrane and the cutaneous appendages.

Flexible carrier, z. As wipes and pads, with liquid cosmetic compositions soaked or impregnated, enjoy great popularity with the consumer. you are time-saving, clean and hygienic in the application. The vehicles often exist made of non-woven fleece, cotton or microfiber.

Cosmetic sponges based on in situ reaction products from a Urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups and an aqueous phase are in Known in the art. US Pat. No. 4,806,572 describes pads disclosed in US Pat from a urethane prepolymer with free isocyanate groups and an oil-in-water Emulsion are formed and used for make-up removal. The emulsion contains anionic and nonionic surfactants and liquid oil components and is free of natural or synthetic waxes. U.S. Patent No. 4,548,954 describes an oil-absorbing floor cleaner made in situ from a urethane prepoly with free isocyanate groups and an aqueous silicone oil emulsion, the abrasive contains particles is formed. US Pat. No. 4,127,515 describes a means for Growing and buffing floors, using in situ a urethane prepolymer free isocyanate groups and an aqueous wax-containing silicone oil emulsion containing a Polyacrylate is formed.  

The advantage of in-situ foaming of the urethane prepolymer with the cosmetic or dermatological composition over conventional impregnation procedure is that this is a one-step process, that is, The carrier material is directly during the manufacturing process with the liquid loaded and does not need to be sprayed or soaked in a second process step become.

The foaming process and the quality of the final product depend heavily on the composition of the liquid used. It was therefore new and for the It is surprising to a person skilled in the art that from the in situ reaction product from a urethane Prepolymer with free isocyanate groups and a surfactant or emulsifier-containing liquid aqueous phase, the other cosmetic or dermatological active and Contains care substances, flexible, fine-pored sponges are obtained on the zu treated skin and hair surfaces are pleasantly lubricious and a controlled, allow drip-free delivery of the fluid bound in the pores. The foams of the invention can be optimally adapted to the respective Hardened, cut or punched in the area of application become.

The invention relates to a flexible, equipped carrier based on a poly urethane foam for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin, the Hair, mucosa and skin appendages, containing the in situ reaction Product of a urethane prepolymer with free isocyanate groups with a liquid aqueous phase containing at least one surfactant and at least Contains a dispersed fatty substance and is characterized in that the liquid Phase at least one cosmetic or dermatological active or Contains care which is selected from natural, if desired chemically modified polymers, which in turn are selected from cellulose ethers, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-24, guar gum, cationic guar gum, Derivatives, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, Locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, shellac, amylose, amylopectin, Dextrins, chemically and / or thermally modified starches and chitosan and its Derivatives, furthermore synthetic polymers, which do not act as superabsorbers, but swell with water and thereby in a gel-like true or colloidal solution omit, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their derivatives, vitamins, provitamins and  Vitamin precursors of Groups B, C and H and their derivatives, plant extracts, selected from the divisible educative tissue of plants (Meristem), green Tea (Camellia sinensis), Hamamelis, Chamomile, Marigold, Pansy, Paeonie, Horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, cinnamon tree, chrysanthemums, oaks bark, stinging nettle, hops, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, man pine, spruce needles, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, kiwi, guava, lime, mango, Apricot, wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, birch, beech sprouts, mallow, meadowfoam, yarrow, quinoa, thyme, melissa, Hau hackle, marshmallow (Althaea), mallow (Malva sylvestris), violets, leaves of blacks Currant, Coltsfoot, Fünffingerkraut, ginseng, ginger root, sweet potato, olives (Olea europaea) and citrus fruit seeds, extracts of algae and microorganisms, anti transpirant agents selected from astringent water-soluble aluminum, Zinc and zirconium salts and mixtures thereof, deodorising agents, Silica, natural and synthetic silicates, aluminosilicates, kaolin, talc and Apatites, which may be modified with aqueous carboxylic acids having 2-3 C atoms, Pigments selected from the oxides of titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, cerium, Magnesium and bismuth, which if desired may be surface modified, boron nitride particles, water-insoluble pearlescent pigments and water-insoluble organic Pigments, water-soluble and oil-soluble organic photoprotective filters, cosmetic Abrasives selected from polymer particles and vegetable abrasives containing if desired, can be coated with fatty substances, dyes and Oxidation dye (precursor) for dyeing keratinic fibers, oxidizing agents, Reducing agents and sebum-regulating, soothing, anti-inflammatory, astringent or circulation-promoting agents.

For the preparation of the sponges according to the invention suitable urethane prepolymer Compositions are described, for example, in US Pat. Nos. 3,903,232 and US Pat US 4,137,200. Corresponding commercial products originate from the product Hypol® from W.R. Grace & Co., Lexington, MA, Hypol® FHP 5000, Hypol® FHP 4000, Hypol® FHP 3000, Hypol® FHP 2000, Hypol® FHP 2000 HD, Hypol® FHP 2002, Hypol® 2000, Hypol® 2002, Hypol® 3000, Hypol® X6100 and Hypol® Hydrogel. The liquid resins are prepared by using low molecular weight polyols and 3 reacted to 8 hydroxyl groups with aromatic or aliphatic diisocyanates become. After the reaction, the resins have at least two free isocyanate groups  per molecule of alcohol used. Suitable diisocyanates are, for. As toluene diisocyanate, methylene diphenyl isocyanate and isophorone diisocyanate. Other suitable Commercial products are from the product range Aquapol® Freeman Chemical Corporation and the Trepol® product line from Twin Rivers Engineering.

In contact with excess water from the liquid according to the invention aqueous phase containing at least one surfactant and cosmetic or dermatological active substances and care substances hydrolyze the free ones Isocyanate groups of the urethane prepolymer with liberation of carbon dioxide. Thereby form fine-pored sponges with the active ingredient-containing aqueous phase are equipped.

The foam composition can then be suitably known to the person skilled in the art Processes in various shapes adapted to the respective field of application to be brought.

The surface-active substances used according to the invention, depending on the application tion area of the agent are referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers are selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers.

Suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are in Zuberei invention all suitable for use on the human body anionic oberflä chenaktiven substances. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups can be contained in the molecule. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyl isethionates having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acylglutamates of the formula (I),
  in which R ¹ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds and X is hydrogen, an alkali and / or alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium or glucammonium, for example acylglutamates , which are derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, for example C _12/14 or C _12/18 coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid and / or stearic acid, in particular sodium N-cocoyl and sodium N-stearoyl-L-glutamate,
• Esters of a hydroxy-substituted di- or tricarboxylic acid of the general formula (II),
  wherein X is H or a -CH ₂ COOR group, Y is H or -OH is under the condition that Y is H when X is -CH ₂ COOR, R, R ¹ and R ^{2 are} independently What a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a poly hydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides with 1 to 6 monomeric saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R, R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• Esters of sulfosuccinic acid or sulfosuccinates of general formula (III),
  in which M ( ^{n + / n} ) for n = 1 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal cation, an ammonium group or the cation of an ammonium organic base and for n = 2 represents an alkaline earth metal cation and R ¹ and R ² independently represent a hydrogen atom Alkali or alkaline earth metal cation, an ammonium group, the cation of an ammonium organic base or a radical Z derived from a polyhydroxylated organic compound selected from the group of etherified (C ₆ -C ₁₈ ) alkyl polysaccharides having 1 to 6 monomers Saccharide units and / or the etherified aliphatic (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) -hydroxyalkylpolyols having 2 to 16 hydroxyl radicals, with the proviso that at least one of the groups R ¹ or R ^{2 is} a radical Z,
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and -dialkylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the Alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula R- (O-CH ₂ CH ₂ ) _x -OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1-12,
• Mixed surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with C _8-22 fatty alcohols,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates,
• - sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates.

Preferred anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are acylglutamates, acyl isethionates, Acyl sarcosinates and acyl taurates, each with a linear or branched acyl radical with 6 to 22 carbon atoms and 0, 1, 2 or 3 double bonds, in particular preferred embodiments of an octanoyl, decanoyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, Palmitoyl and stearoyl radical is selected, esters of tartaric acid, citric acid or Succinic acid or the salts of these acids with alkylated glucose, in particular the Products with the INCI name Disodium Coco-Glucoside Citrate, Sodium Coco Glucoside Tartrate and Disodium Coco-Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Alkylpolyglycolethersul fate and ether carboxylic acids having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 Ethoxy groups in the molecule, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl ester with 8 to 18  C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethyl ester with 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 ethoxy groups.

Zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COO ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group in the molecule. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumgly cinate, N-acyl-aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3 carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and the cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate. A preferred zwitterioni cal surfactant is known under the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine fatty acid amide derivative.

Ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are understood to mean those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and which are capable of forming internal salts are. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylaminopropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkylimino-dipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group. Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

Nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers contain as hydrophilic group z. As a polyol group, a Polyalkylenglycolethergruppe or a combination of polyol and poly glycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example

• - Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• - Addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hardened Castor oil,
• Polyol fatty acid (partial) esters, such as Hydagen® HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol® types (Cognis), especially of saturated C _8-30 fatty acids,
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters,
• - amine oxides,
• - fatty acid alkanolamides, fatty acid N-alkylglucamide and fatty amines and their Ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fat acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and methylglucoside fatty acid esters and their ethylene oxide or polyglycerol addition products,
• - Alkylpolyglycoside according to the general formula RO- (Z) _x wherein R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units.

Particular preference is given to those alkylpolyglycosides in which R

• consisting essentially of C ₈ and C ₁₀ -alkyl groups,
• essentially of C ₁₂ and C ₁₄ alkyl groups,
• - Essentially from C ₈ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Essentially from C ₁₂ - to C ₁₆ alkyl groups or
• - Substituted from C ₁₆ - to C ₁₈ alkyl groups

consists.

As sugar building block Z it is possible to use any desired mono- or oligosaccharides. Usually, sugars with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding Used oligosaccharides. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, galac tose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

The alkylpolyglycosides which can be used according to the invention contain on average from 1.1 to 5 sugar units. Alkyl polyglycosides having x values of 1.1 to 2.0 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to alkyl glycosides in which x is 1.1 to 1.8.

• - Mixtures of alkyl (oligo) glucosides and fatty alcohols, eg. Eg Montanov®68,
• - sterols, e.g. Ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol and mycosterols,
• - Phospholipids, z. B. lecithins or phosphatidylcholines,  
• Polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12- hydroxystearate (Dehymuls® PGPH) or triglycerol diisostearate (Lameform® TGI),
• - alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes (INCI name: Dimethicone Copolyol).

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the Alkylpolyglyco side, optionally mixed with fatty alcohols, alkoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes, Alkylene oxide addition products of saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids with each proved 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid.

Cationic surfactants of the quaternary type can furthermore be used according to the invention Ammonium compounds, the esterquats and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary Ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and Bro such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and tri alkylmethylammoniumchloride. The long alkyl chains of these surfactants are preferred 10 to 18 carbon atoms, such as. In cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, stearyltri methylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylammonium chloride, lauryldimethylbenzylammonium chloride and tricetylmethylammonium chloride. Other preferred cationic surfactants are those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds.

Esterquats are surface-active substances that are both at least an ester function as well as at least one quaternary ammonium group as Structure element included. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of Fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with Diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2- Dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. The products Amiocare® VGH-70, an N, N-bis (2- Palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethyl ammonium chloride, and Dehyquart® F-75, Dehyquart® C-4046, Dehyquart® L80 and Dehyquart® AU-35 are preferred examples of such esterquats.

The Alkylamidoamine are usually by amidation natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid sections prepared with dialkylaminoamines. An inventor In accordance with the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances provides the Stearamidopropyl-dimethylamine, e.g. As the commercial product Tegoamid®S 18, is.

The total surface-active substances are used in quantities of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.1-30% by weight and very particularly preferably 0.5-15% by weight,  based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, used.

The anionic surfactants and emulsifiers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, included.

The zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, included.

The ampholytic surfactants and emulsifiers are in the inventive compositions preferably in, amounts of 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1 to 10 wt .-%, based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, included.

The nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of from 0.1 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, included.

The cationic surfactants are preferred in amounts in the agents according to the invention from 0.1 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the Auf foaming of the sponges of the invention, contain.

Preference is given to the liquid, water-containing phases with which the Carriers according to the invention are prepared, at least one nonionic Emulsifier with an HLB value of 3 to 18, according to the Römpp-Lexikon Chemie (Hrg. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions included. Nonionic O / W emulsifiers with one HLB value of 10-15 and nonionic W / O emulsifiers with an HLB value of 3-6 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The fatty substances used according to the invention are fatty acids, fatty alcohol as well as natural and synthetic waxes, both solid and liquid Form may be in aqueous dispersion, as well as natural and synthetic kosme  table oil components. Perfume oils and essential oils are also added according to the invention calculated the fatty substances.

As fatty acids can be used linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated C _8-30 fatty acids. C _10-22 fatty acids are preferred. Examples are the isostearic and isopalmitic acids. Further suitable examples are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaiic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidonic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid as well as their technical mixtures. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; especially preferred is the use of stearic acid.

The amount used is 0.1-15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10 wt .-% and special It preferably 1-5 wt .-%, each based on the foaming of the Invention composition used according to sponges.

As fatty alcohols can be used saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with 6-30, preferably 10-22 and very particular It prefers 12-22 carbon atoms. Applicable for the purposes of the invention are z. B. Octenol, dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, Eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, Lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, capryl alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols.

Natural or synthetic waxes which can be used according to the invention are solid paraffins or isoparaffins, vegetable waxes such as candelilla wax, carnauba wax, esparto grass wax, fruit waxes and sunflower wax, beeswaxes and other insect waxes, ozokerites, ceresin, sperm whale and polyethylene or polypropylene microwells. Also suitable are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _16-30 fatty acids, such as. Hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxy stearate, furthermore synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols (eg Syncro wax®) or polyols having 2-6 C atoms, Fatty acid monoalkanolamides having a C _12-22 acyl radical and a C _2-4 alkanol radical, synthetic fatty acid fatty alcohol esters, eg. As stearyl stearate or cetyl palmitate, ester waxes from natural fatty acids and synthetic C _20-40 fatty alcohols (INCI name C20-40 alkyl stearates) and get full esters of fatty alcohol and di- and tricarboxylic acids, eg. As dicetylsuccinate or dicetyl / stearyl adipate, and mixtures of these substances.

To the natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies, which can be used advantageously according to Invention, for example, include:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, Rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid ones Proportions of coconut oil. However, other triglyceride oils are also suitable, such as the liquid ones Proportions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• - Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons such. B. 1,3- Di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-alkyl ethers with a total of 12 to 36, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as. As di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether and n-octyl n-decyl ether. 1,3-di (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol® S) and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol® OE) can be added before be zugt.
• - Ester oils. Ester oils are understood as meaning the esters of C _6-30 fatty acids with C _2-30 fatty alcohols. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Particularly preferred according to the invention are isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C _16-18 alkyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl stearate, cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, coconut fatty alcohol caprinate caprylate, n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, bile acid hexyl ester, n-butyl adipate, myristyl myristate, cetearyl isononanoate and oleic acid decyl ester.
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelaat and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol di-iso stearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate, neopentyl glycol diol caprylate,
• - Symmetrical, asymmetric or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with Fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol® CC),
• - mono, - di- and tri-fatty acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol, such as. Monomuls 90-O18, Monomuls® 90-L12 or Cutina® MD.

The amount used is 0.1-50 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.1-15 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the foaming of sponges of the invention used cosmetic composition.

Other oils advantageously used according to the invention are hydroxycarboxylic acid esters. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. Suitable alcohol components of these esters are primary linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms. The esters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are z. B. under the trademark Cosmacol® (Eni Chem. Augusta Industriale) available. Other particularly preferred oil components are the esters of 2-position branched C _12-13 alkanols with 2-ethylhexanoic acid, eg. B. the commercial product Cosmacol® EOI. The amount of hydroxycarboxylic acid ester used is 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.1-10% by weight and more preferably 0.1-5% by weight, in each case based on the weight of the sponges for foaming according to the invention used composition.

Further fatty substances to be used advantageously according to the invention are siloxanes. The siloxanes may be present as oils, resins, elastomers or gums. Preferred siloxanes are Polydialkylsiloxanes, such as. B. polydimethylsiloxane, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, such as. B. Polyphenylmethylsiloxane, polydialkylsiloxanes, the amine and / or hydroxy groups and cyclic silicones (INCI name: Cyclomethicone), preferably deca methylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane.

Suitable perfume oils are, for example, mixtures of natural and synthetic Perfumes. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jas min, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), Fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Oranges), roots (mace, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, calmus), wood (Pine, sandal, guaiac, cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (tarragon, Lemongrass, sage, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), Resins and balms (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax). Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester, ether, Aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the type  the esters are z. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, Linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, Benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and Benzyl salicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C-atoms, citrate, citronellal, Citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, too the ketones z. As the ionones, α-isomethylionone and Methylcedrylketon, to the alcohols Anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and Terpineol. The hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. However, preference is given to using mixtures of different fragrances which together create an appealing scent.

Also essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components are suitable as perfume oils, z. B. sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, Mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, Galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil.

Preferably, bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, Phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexyl cinnamic aldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, Linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, Indole, Hedione, Sandelice, Citron Oil, Tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, Fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllat, irotyl and Floramat used alone or in mixtures.

According to the invention the perfume oil and / or essential oil in amounts of 0.01-2 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-1 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the foaming of sponges of the invention used composition.

The total amount of oil and fat components in the inventive compositions be usually carries 0.01-60 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-35 wt .-% and especially preferably 1-20 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the foaming of sponges of the invention used composition.

The natural, if desired chemically modified, polymers which are preferably used according to the invention include cellulose ethers, eg. As hydroxypropyl cellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as. Celquat® H 100, Celquat® L 200 and Polymer JR®400, which are known by the names Polyquaternium-24 polymers, guar gum, cationic guar derivatives, in particular the products Cosmedia®Guar and Jaguar, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, shellac, starch fractions such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, chemically and / or thermally modified starches such. As aluminum starch octenylsuccinate (Dry Flo® Plus) or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, chitosan and its derivatives, such as. Hydagen® CMF, Hydagen® HCMF, Kytamer PC and Chitolam® NB / 101. Particularly suitable chitosans have a degree of deacetylation of at least 80% and a molecular weight of 5.10 ⁵ to 5.10 ⁶ g / mol. For the use according to the invention, the chitosan must be converted into the salt form. Suitable acids for this purpose are for. As acetic acid, glycolic acid, tartaric acid, malic acid, citric acid, lactic acid, 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid, benzoic acid or salicylic acid.

The synthetic polymers preferably used according to the invention, not as Superabsorbents work, but swell with water and thereby into a gel-like real or colloidal solution can be anionic, cationic, amphoteric charged or be nonionic.

Suitable anionic synthetic polymers include carboxylate and / or Sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, Crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. there the acidic groups may be used, in whole or in part, as sodium, potassium, ammonium, Mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2- Acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido as sole monomer or as comonomer 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in salt form may be present. Particularly preferred is the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2 methylpropanesulfonic acid, e.g. For example, the product Rheothik® 11-80.

Within this embodiment, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least an anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer einzuset Zen. With respect to the anionic monomers is based on the substances listed above directed. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic  acid esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular poly acrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. One especially before Angtes anionic copolymer consists of 70-55 mol% acrylamide and 30-45 mol% 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, where the sulfonic acid groups are all or part example as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt vorlie This copolymer may also be crosslinked using as crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, Allylpentaerythritol and methylenebisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel®305 the company SEPPIC. The usage This compound has been found in the context of the teaching of the invention as particularly ago partly proven. Also under the name Simulgel® 600 as a compound with Isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are, for example, the commercial products Carbopol®. Further particularly preferred anionic copolymers are those which may contain as crosslinking agents 80-98% by weight, if desired, substituted acrylic acid and 2-20% by weight C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohol methylacrylic acid esters. Such compounds are for. For example, the commercial products Pemulen®.

Amphoteric polymers are understood as meaning both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and which are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which have in the molecule quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups or -COOH- or SO ₃ H groups. An example of an inventively usable amphoteric poly mer is the available under the name Amphomer® acrylic resin, which is a Copolyme res from tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) acrylamide and two or more monomers from the Group acrylic acid, methacrylic acid and esters thereof represents.

The agents according to the invention can furthermore contain non-ionogenic polymers. Suitable nonionic polymers include:

• - Polyvinylpyrrolidone and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, eg. B. the commercial pro Luviskol® (BASF),  
• - Polyvinyl alcohols, which may be partially saponified.

Cationic polymers which are suitable according to the invention are, for example, polysiloxanes quaternary groups, such as. For example, the commercial products Q2-7224 (Dow Corning), Dow Corning® 929 emulsion, SM-2059 (General Electric), SLM-55067 (Wacker), and Abil® Quat 3270 and 3272 (Th. Goldschmidt), as well as those under the designations Polyquaternium-2, Polyquaternium-17, Polyquaternium-18 and Polyquaternium-27 known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

An inventively preferred cationic polymer is the desired one crosslinked poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. The cross-linking can be carried out with the help of polyunsaturated unsaturation Compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, Diallyl ethers, polyallyl polyglyceryl ethers or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent. Polyquaternium-37 will preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion. Such polymer dispersions are under the names Salcare® SC 95 and Salcare® SC 96 im Trade available.

Copolymers of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride and nonionic monomers, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid C _1-4 -alkyl esters and C _1-4 -alkyl methacrylates, which may optionally be crosslinked, are commercially available under the name Salcare® SC 92.

It is according to the invention also possible that the foaming of the invention according sponges used cosmetic compositions several, esp in particular two different polymers of the same charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or nonionic polymer.

In a further preferred embodiment, the foaming of the inventions contain Sponges according to the invention used compositions α-hydroxycarboxylic acids. The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are selected according to the invention from glycolic acid, Lactic acid, methyllactic acid; 2-Hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2- Hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2- Hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydrodecanoic acid (α-hydroxylauric acid), 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid  (α-hydroxymyristic acid), 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid (α-hydroxypalmitic acid), 2-hydro xyoctadecanoic acid (α-hydroxystearic acid), 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid (α-hydroxyarachi donic acid), mandelic acid, phenyllactic acid, glyceric acid, 2,3,4-trihydroxybutanoic acid with the isomers erythonic acid and threonic acid, ribonic acid, arabinonic acid, xylon acid, lyxonic acid, allonic acid, altronic acid, gluconic acid, mannonic acid, gulonic acid, Idonic acid, galactonic acid, talc acid, glucoheptonic acid, galactoheptonic acid, tartrone acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, mucic acid (galactaric acid), glucaric acid and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned acids and their lactone forms, in particular gluconolactone, galactolactone, glucuronolactone, galacturonolactone, Gulonolactone, ribonolactone, glucoheptonolactone, mannonolactone, galactoheptonolactone and pantoyl lactone.

Citric acid is not calculated according to the invention to the α-hydroxycarboxylic acids.

The α-hydroxycarboxylic acids according to the invention in amounts of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the used for foaming the sponges of the invention, used.

According to the invention suitable active ingredients or care substances are also vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, C and H and their derivatives.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the cosmetic composition used for foaming the sponges according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).
  

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ⁶ independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched one C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) - furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), all stereoisomers being expressly included. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are preferably in a total amount of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the foaming of the invention Sponges used composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is preferably present in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight, based in each case on the composition used for foaming the sponges according to the invention.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or its derivatives are preferred in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the foaming of the sponges of the invention used composition used. Use in the form of palmitic acid esters, glucosides or phosphates may be preferred. The use in combi nation with tocopherols may also be preferred.

Preferred vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups B, C and H are Panthenol and its derivatives, pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate and biotin.

The plant extracts suitable according to the invention are selected from the tei viable plant tissue of the plants (Meristem), green tea (Camellia sinensis), Hamamelis, Chamomile, Marigold, Pansy, Paeonie, Horse Chestnut, Sage, Willow bark, cinnamon tree, chrysanthemums, oak bark, stinging nettle, Hops, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almonds, spruce needles, Sandalwood, Juniper, Coconut, Kiwi, Guava, Lime, Mango, Apricot, Wheat, Melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, birch, beech sprouts, mallow, meadows frothy grass, yarrow, quenelle, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, marshmallow (Althaea), Mallow (Malva sylvestris), Violet, Blackcurrant Leaves, Coltsfoot, Fünffingerkraut, ginseng, ginger root, sweet potato, olives (Olea europaea), in particular olive tree leaves, and citrus fruit seeds, in particular from the kernels Citrus sinensis, C. paradisi, C. aurantium, C. aurantifolia, C. reticulata, C. grandis, C. limonia and C. medica. They are usually made by extracting the entire plant, in individual cases but also exclusively from flowers and / or leaves and / or Seeds and / or other parts of plants produced.

Algae extracts can also be used to advantage. Verwen the invention The algae extracts come from green algae, brown algae, red algae or blue-green algae (Cyanobacteria). The algae used for extraction can be both natural Origin as well as obtained by biotechnological processes and, if desired be changed in relation to the natural form. The change of the organisms can genetically, by breeding or by cultivating in with selected nutrients enriched media. Preferred algae extracts are from seaweed, blue algae, from the green alga Codium tomentosum as well as from the brown algae Fucus vesiculo  sus. A particularly preferred algae extract is from blue-green algae of the species Spiru lina cultured in a magnesium-enriched medium.

Can also be used advantageously extracts of microorganisms, eg. B. off Yeasts, preferably from baker's yeast.

The extracts of spirulina, baker's yeast, green tea (Camellia sinensis), meristem, witch hazel, apricot, calendula, guava, sweet potato, lime, Mango, kiwi, cucumber, mallow, marshmallow, violet, olive tree leaves and Citrus sinensis. The compositions according to the invention can also be mixtures of several, in particular of containing two different plant extracts.

Water-soluble astringent metallic salts, in particular inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc, or any mixtures of these salts, are suitable as antiperspirant active ingredients. For example, alum (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O), aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, sodium aluminum chlorohydroxylactate, aluminum chlorohydroxyallantoinate, aluminum chlorohydrate, aluminum sulfocarbolate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate , Zirconium chlorohydrate and aluminum-zirconium-chlorohydrate-glycine complexes. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5 g of active substance per 100 g of solution at 20 ° C. The antiperspirant active ingredients are used as aqueous solutions. According to the invention, they are present in an amount of active substance of 1-40% by weight, preferably 5-30% by weight and in particular 10-25% by weight, based on the composition used for foaming the sponges according to the invention. In a preferred embodiment, the composition contains an astringent aluminum salt, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate, and / or an aluminum-zirconium compound. Aluminum chlorohydrates are sold, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry® Ultrafine by Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron® L by Clariant, as Chlorhydrol® and in activated form as Reach® 501 by Reheis. Under the name Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered. The use of aluminum-zirconium-tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, which are commercially available, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal® 36G, is particularly advantageous according to the invention.

Fragrances, antimicrobial, antibacterial are suitable according to the invention as deodorants le or germ-inhibiting substances, enzyme-inhibiting substances, antioxidants and odor adsorbents.

Suitable antimicrobial, antibacterial or germ-inhibiting substances are in particular Organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a Range of plant extracts and zinc compounds. Preference is given to halogenated phenol derivatives such. Hexachlorophene or Irgasan DP 300 (triclosan, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'- hydroxydiphenyl ether), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonyl, chlorhexidine (1,1'-hexamethylene-bis- [5- (4-chlorophenyl)] - biguanide), chlorhexidine gluconate, benzalkonium halides, bromochloro phenol, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, cloflucarbon, Dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphen bromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, Benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benz ethonium chloride, lauryl pyridinium chloride, lauryl isoquinolinium bromide, cetyl pyridinium chloride and methylbenzedonium chloride. Particularly according to the invention preferred plant extracts with antimicrobial activity are selected from water and oil-soluble extracts of blackcurrant leaves, chamomile flowers, Cloves, burdock root, pansy, ribwort, citrus sinensis and green Tea (Camellia sinensis) and terpene alcohols, eg. B. Farnesol, and ingredients of lime blossom oil. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethyl sulfosuccinyl undecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate and sodium phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, chlorophyllin copper complexes, glycerol monoalkyl ethers and carboxylic esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (eg glycerol monolaurate, Diglycerol monocaprinate) can be used.

Even less effective antimicrobial substances, but have a specific effect against the responsible for the sweat decomposition Gram-positive bacteria can be used as deodorant agents. These include many essential oils such. As clove oil (eugenol), mint oil (menthol) or thyme oil (thymol) and terpene alcohols such. B. Farnesol. Also aromatic alcohols such. As benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethanol or 2-phenoxyethanol can be used as deodorant agents. Other anti-bacterially effective deodorants are lantibiotics, glycoglycerolipids, sphingolipids (ceramides), sterols and other agents that inhibit bacteria adhesion to the skin, eg. As glycosidases, lipases, proteases, carbohydrates, di- and Oligosaccharidfett acid esters and alkylated mono- and oligosaccharides. Also suitable are long-chain diols, z. As 1,2-alkane (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) diols, glycerol mono- (C ₆ -C ₁₆ ) alkyl ethers or glycerol mono (C ₈ -C ₁₈ ) fatty acid esters, which are very good skin and mucous membrane compatible and against Corynebacteria are effective.

As an enzyme-inhibiting substances are especially those deodorizing effect inhibit the ester-cleaving enzymes and counteract in this way the sweat decomposition. Zinc salts, plant extracts and the esters of aliphatic C ₂ -C ₆ -carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₆ -alcohols or polyols, eg. Triethyl citrate, propylene glycol lactate or glycerol triacetate (triacetin).

Antioxidants can ent the oxidative decomposition of the welding components ent counteract and inhibit odor development in this way. Suitable antioxidants Dantien are carotenoids, carotenes (eg, α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their Derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (eg dihydrolipoic acid), thio compounds, z. Thioglycerol, thiosorbitol, thioglycolic acid, thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, Cystamine and its esters and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, Distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives, and sulf Oximine compounds in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol / kg to moles / kg), metal chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, EDTA, EGTA, phytic acid, Lactoferrin), humic acids, bile acid, bile extracts, gallic acid esters (eg propyl, Octyl and dodecyl gallate), flavonoids, catechins, bilirubin, biliverdin and their derivatives, Folic acid and its derivatives, hydroquinone and its derivatives (eg arbutin), ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, isoascorbic acid and its derivatives, rutin, Rutinic acid and its derivatives, disodium rubinyldisulfate, cinnamic acid and derivatives thereof (eg ferulic acid, ethyl ferulate, caffeic acid), kojic acid, chitosanglycolate and salicylate, Butylhydroxytoluene, Butylhydroxyanisol, Nordihydroguajakharzsäure, Nordihydro guargetic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and their derivatives, selenium and selenium derivatives (eg selenium methionine), stilbenes and stilbene Derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide). According to the invention suitable Deri vate (salts, esters, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) and mixtures of said active substances or plant extracts (for example tea tree oil, rosemary extract and rosmarinic acid) containing these antioxidants.

As lipophilic, oil-soluble antioxidants from this group are gallic acid esters, Flavonoids and carotenoids as well as butylhydroxytoluene / anisole are preferred. As water-soluble Antioxidants are tannins, especially those of plant origin, preferred.  

The total amount of the antioxidants is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.05-5% by weight. and in particular 0.05-2 wt .-%, each based on the foaming composition of the sponges of the invention.

The following substances can be used as odor absorbers: zinc ricinoleate, Cyclodextrin and its derivatives, e.g. As hydroxypropyl-β-cyclodextrin, further oxides such as Magnesium oxide or zinc oxide, wherein the oxides are not compatible with aluminum chlorohydrate starch and starch derivatives, silicic acids, which may be modified if necessary, Zeolites, talc and synthetic polymers, e.g. Nylon.

Complexing substances can support the deodorizing effect by using the oxidatively catalytically active heavy metal ions (eg iron or copper) stable com plexieren. Suitable complexing agents are, for. As the salts of ethylenediaminetetraessig acid or nitrilotriacetic acid and the salts of 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphone acid.

According to the invention, further usable as cosmetic active ingredients are silicic acids, natural and synthetic silicates, aluminosilicates, kaolin, talc and apatite with aqueous carboxylic acids having 2-3 carbon atoms can be modified.

Furthermore, according to the invention, both colored and colorless pigments can be used become. The pigments are selected from the oxides of titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, Magnesium, cerium and bismuth, which if desired may be surface-modified, Boron nitride particles, water-insoluble pearlescent pigments and water-insoluble organi pigments. Some of the pigments mentioned below also serve as UV Absorber. Particularly preferred colored pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the Color Index numbers CI 77491 (iron oxide red), CI 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and CI 77499 (iron oxide black), from CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black. Other preferred color pigments are selected from CI 15510, CI 15585, CI 15850, CI 15985, CI 45170, CI 45370, CI 45380, CI 45425, CI 45430, CI 73360, and CI 75470. The before The pigments used are selected from the oxides of titanium, zinc, zirconium and iron.

The preferred inorganic particulate substances are hydrophilic or amphiphilic. benefit Alternatively, they can be surface-coated, especially superficially be water-repellent treated ("coated"). Examples include aluminum stearate Coated titanium dioxide pigments (commercial product MT 100 T from Tayca), with Dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) coated zinc oxide coated with dimethicone  Boron nitride (Très BN® UHP 1106 from Carborundum), with a mixture of Dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel (simethicone) and alumina hydrate (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex® T 2000 from Merck), coated with octylsilanol Titanium dioxide or spherical polyalkylsesquisiloxane particles (Aerosil® R972 and Aerosil® 200V from Degussa).

The organic UV filters used in the invention are selected from the Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic esters, Benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, Salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, 1,3,5-triazines, monomeric and oligomeric 4,4- Diarylbutadienecarboxylic acid esters and carboxamides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, Benzalmalonsäureestern and any mixtures of the above components.

The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble.

Oil-soluble UV filters which are particularly preferred according to the invention are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) - propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) - benzoic acid ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethyl hexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid 4-isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4- methoxybenzophenone, di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p- carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl triazone) and dioctyl butamido triazone (Uvasorb® HEB) and any mixtures of the components mentioned.

Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its Alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzene zophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-benzylidene camphor, such as B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-borny liden) sulfonic acid and its salts.

According to the invention, the organic UV filters are in amounts of 0.1-20% by weight, preferably 1-15 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-10 wt .-%, each based on  used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition included.

According to the invention may continue in the liquid, aqueous phase, cosmetic Abrasive substances may be contained, selected from polymer particles and vegetable Abrasives, which may, if desired, be coated with fatty substances. suitable polymeric abrasives are selected from optionally modified starches and Starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, ground plant parts such as almond bran or wheat bran, hardened jojoba oil (Jojoba beads), polymer particles of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, poly acrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers which are crosslinked may, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon or silicones, and micro- or Milli capsules containing petrochemical polymers and / or biopolymers such as gelatin, pectin, vegetable gums, alginates and carrageenan and optionally cosmetic active contain substances, as well as mixtures of these substances. Preferred are Abrasives with average diameters of 90-600 μm. Particularly preferred as Almond bran, wheat bran, hardened jojoba oil and Polymer beads, in particular polyethylene beads. Also particularly preferred are active ingredient-containing micro- or milli-capsules. The commercial capsules are common as an aqueous polymer dispersion, for example the particularly preferred Milli capsules® from Lipotec SA (INCI name: Aqua, tocopheryl acetate, glycerol, Carbomer, Sebacic Acid, Agar, Green Colourant, Alginic Acid).

Furthermore, for foaming the sponges of the invention used compositions of dyes and oxidation dye (precursor) e to Dyeing keratinous fibers included. The composition of the dyeing or Tinting agent is not subject to any fundamental restrictions.

As oxidation dye (precursor) e can

• - Developer and coupler type oxidation dye precursors,
• Natural and synthetic direct dyes and
• Precursors of nature-analogous dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives,

and mixtures of representatives of one or more of these groups.  

As the oxidation dye precursors of the developer type are usually primary aro matic amines with another, in para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic Hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its Derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenyl nylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5- diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) - ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6- triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-aminophenol, bis (4- aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2- Hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis- (2- hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) -methane, 1,4-bis- (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2- hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -phenol, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives such as B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous development lerkomponenten are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxy ethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and 4-hydroxy-2,5,6- triaminopyrimidine.

As the coupler type oxidation dye precursors, m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcin and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are usually used. Examples of such coupler components are

• M-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy 4-aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro 6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2- methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N- Cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) benzene, 3- (ethylamino) -4- methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,
• O-aminophenol and its derivatives,
• - M-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy ethanol, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethyl  amino) benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis- (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1- methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene,
• - o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-methylbenzene,
• - Di- or Trihydroxybenzolderivate such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chloro resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• Pyridine derivatives such as 2,6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2- Amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6- Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3- Diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine,
• - Naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxy methyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihy droxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxy naphthalene and 2,3-dihydroxynaphthalene,
• - Morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-amino-benzo morpholine,
• Quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline,
• Pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• Indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole,
• Methylene dioxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxy benzene.

Particularly suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxy naphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, Re sorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5- Methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Direct dyes are usually nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, Azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive Dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic  Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2- nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydro quinoxaline, hydroxyethyl-2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In nature occurring substantive dyes are red, for example in henna, Henna neutral, henna black, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, Buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, sedre and alcano root contain.

For example, indoles and indolines are used as precursors of naturally-analogous dyes used their physiologically acceptable salts. Preference is given to such indoles and Indolines are used, the at least one hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a sub stituent on the six-ring, exhibit. These groups can carry further substituents, z. B. in the form of an etherification or esterification of the hydroxy group or an alkylation the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N- Methyl 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6- Aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6- Dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Particularly noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole. 5,6- Dihydroxyindole is particularly preferred.

The indoline and indole derivatives can in the foaming of the inventive Sponges used dye-containing compositions both as free bases as well as in the form of their physiologically acceptable salts with inorganic or organic acids, eg. As the hydrochlorides, sulfates and hydrobromides used become.  

Furthermore, according to the invention, oxidizing and reducing agents that are used are suitable for use on the human body.

On the one hand, oxidizers in hair cosmetics serve to produce a permanent hair coloration with the aid of developer and coupler type oxidation dye precursors by coupling both types of precursor together oxidatively. Here, the hair is treated either first with the oxidation dye precursors and then with the oxidizing agent, or else the oxidation dye precursors and the oxidizing agent are mixed immediately before use and then applied to the hair. On the other hand, oxidizing agents are used to fix a permanent hair deformation (permanent wave) after the reductive wave treatment of the hair. As the oxidizing agent are persulfates, chlorites, Na triumbromat, potassium bromate and in particular hydrogen peroxide or its investment products of urea, melamine and sodium borate suitable. The particularly preferred hydrogen peroxide is used together with the usual for stabilizing aqueous What serstoffperoxidzubereitungen stabilizers. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations, which usually contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H ₂ O ₂ , is preferably included 2 to 6, in particular 2 to 4; it is adjusted by acids, preferably phosphoric acid, phosphonic acids and / or dipicolinic acid. Bromat-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10 wt .-%, wherein the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Furthermore, it is possible to carry out the oxidation with the aid of enzymes, which enzymes are used both for the production of oxidizing per-compounds and for enhancing the action of a small amount of existing oxidizing agents, or enzymes are used, the electrons from suitable developer components ( Reductant) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and laccase, but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase are preferred.

Reducing agents are used in cosmetics especially for permanent hair deformation are applied by being applied to the wound on winder hair and there cause cleavage of the disulfide bridges of keratin. Suitable as a reducing agent are in particular thioglycolic acid or its salts or esters.  

Furthermore, according to the invention cosmetic or dermatological agents with sebum-regulating, skin-soothing, anti-inflammatory, astringent or circulation-promoting effect can be used.

Sebum-regulating agents are particularly preferred according to the invention out selects from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and Stinging nettle, cinnamon extract (eg Sepicontrol® A5 from Seppic), Chrysanthemum extract (eg Laricyl® from Laboratoires Serobiologiques) and from commercial drug mixtures, eg. B. Asebiol® BT 2 (INCI: Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, pyridoxins, niacinamides, glycerol, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) of the company Laboratoires Serobiologiques and Antifettfaktor® COS-218/2-A (from Cosmetochem, INCI: Aqua, cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 isolauryl thioether, PCA, cetyl alcohol). Furthermore suitable Anti-acne agents, eg. B. benzoyl peroxide or salicylic acid derivatives.

Skin-calming active ingredients are particularly preferably selected according to the invention containing allantoin, α-bisabolol, deoxysugars and deoxy sugar building blocks Polysaccharides. The preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are L (-) - fucose and L (+) - rhamnose. Fucose comes z. B. as a building block of polysaccharides before, the marine brown algae (eg, Fucus vesiculosus) can be isolated, rhamnose presents a polysaccharide building block of arabic acid in gum arabic Commercial products are z. Fucogel 1000 (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) or Rhamnosoft (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2), both from the company Solabia available.

Anti-inflammatory agents are particularly preferred according to the invention selected from α-bisabolol and the water- and oil-soluble extracts of ivy, arnica, Camellia sinensis (green tea), witch hazel, Hibiscus sabdariffa, St. John's wort, chamomile (Matricaria chamomilla), Ruscus asculeatus, Malva silvestris, Horsetail and Yarrow (Achillea millefolium).

Astringent agents are particularly preferably selected according to the invention from water- and oil-soluble extracts from witch hazel, willow bark, oak bark and Sage. The circulation-promoting substances are selected from Nicotinic acid derivatives with vasodilator effect, capsaicin, extracts from Chillies (red pepper), rutin and rutin derivatives, caffeine and horse chestnut extract and mixtures thereof. An invention particularly preferred Perfusion-promoting nicotinic acid derivative is vitamin E nicotinate (Tocopherolnicotinat) used, preferably in amounts of 0.1-2 wt .-%, based on  the composition used to foam the sponges of the invention setting.

To protect the foam used for foaming of the invention Compositions may preferably be added to antioxidants and / or UV absorbers become. Particularly suitable antioxidants and / or UV absorbers are tetrabutyl Pentaerythrityl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate (INCI name), also called Neopentanetetrayl tetrakis (3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate) or tetrakis [methylene- (3,5-di-tert. butyl-4-hydroxyhydrocinnamate)] methane known and commercially available for. B. under the Product name Tinogard TT (Ciba) available, 2-tert-butyl-6- (5-chloro-2H-benzotriazole-2- yl) -p-cresol (INCI name: Bumetrizole), commercially available for. B. under the product name Tinogard AS (Ciba) available, 3- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -5-sec-butyl-4- Hydroxybenzenesulfonate sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Benzotriazolyl Butylphenol sulfonates), which are commercially available for. B. under the product name Tinogard HS or Tinogard H Liquid (Ciba), and 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -6-dodecyl-4- methylphenol (INCI name: Benzotriazoly) dodecyl p-cresol), which is commercially available for. B. under the product name Tinogard TL (Ciba) is available.

In addition to the cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients or care substances which are preferably suitable according to the invention, the compositions used for foaming the sponges according to the invention may contain water-soluble polyols. These include water-soluble diols, triols and higher alcohols, polyglycerols, polyethylene glycols and mono- and disaccharides. Water solubility is understood according to the invention that at least 5 wt .-% of the alcohol at 20 ° C clear dissolve or - in the case of long-chain or polymeric alcohols - can be brought into solution by heating the solution to 50-60 ° C. Among the diols are C ₂ -C ₁₂ diols, in particular. 1,2-propylene glycol, butylene glycols such as. As 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentanediols such as. For example, 1,2-pentanediol or 1,5-pentanediol and hexanediols such. For example, 1,6-hexanediol. Further preferred are glycerol and polyglycerols, especially diglycerol and triglycerol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, as well as the polyethylene glycols (PEG) PEG-400, PEG-600, PEG-1000, PEG-1550, PEG-3000 and PEG-4000 ,

Suitable monosaccharides are, for. Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose, ribose, Xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, gulose, idose and talose, the deoxysugars  Fucose and rhamnose and amino sugars such. As glucosamine or galactosamine. Be preferred are glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and fucose; Glucose is special prefers. Suitable oligosaccharides are from two to ten monosaccharide units composed, z. As sucrose, lactose or trehalose. A particularly preferred Oligosaccharide is sucrose. Also particularly preferred is the use of Honey, which contains predominantly glucose and sucrose.

In addition to the cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients or care substances which are preferably suitable according to the invention, the compositions used for foaming the sponges according to the invention may contain vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, E and F and derivatives thereof. The group of substances known as vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The vitamin A component is preferably contained in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the cosmetic composition used for foaming the sponges according to the invention.

The group of substances called vitamin E include tocopherols, in particular α-tocopherol, and tocopherol derivatives. Tocopherol and its derivatives, in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the Succinate are preferred in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the Auf foaming of the sponges of the invention, contain.

Under the term "vitamin F" are usually essential fatty acids, in particular Linoleic acid, linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, understood.

In addition to the inventively preferred cosmetic or dermatological active ingredients or care substances can be used to foam the invention according to sponges used compositions both herbal and containing animal proteins and protein hydrolysates. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which are also in Form of salts may be present. Preference is given to vegetable protein hydrolysates, for. B.  Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Appropriate Commercial products are z. DiaMin® (Diamalt), Gluadin® (Cognis), and Lexein® (Inolex).

Furthermore, amino acid mixtures can advantageously be used according to the invention or individual amino acids such as arginine, lysine, histidine, glycine, pyrrolidine 2-carboxylic acid or pyrroglutamic acid are used. Also possible is the Use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. B. in the form of their fatty acid condensa tion products. Corresponding commercial products are z. Lamepon® (Cognis), Gluadin® (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin® or Crotein® (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention underlying protein hydrolyzate from animal, plant, marine life or derived from biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content is one Molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, among cationic protein hydrolyzates quaternized amino acids and to understand their mixtures. The cationic protein hydrolyzates can also be added be further derivatized. As typical examples of kationi used in the invention protein hydrolysates and derivatives are listed: Cocodimonium hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Kera tin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / myristyl ether HCl, hydroxypropyltrimonium gelatin. Very particularly preferred are the plant-based cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives.

According to the invention, the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives are available in quantities of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, respectively based on the foams used for foaming the sponges of the invention Composition, included.

Depending on the selection of cosmetic and dermatological agents, the inventive carrier can be applied in many ways.  

A preferred embodiment of the invention contains the hydrous phase in the form a face or body cleansing composition and may be used as facial or Body cleansing sponge or used as a make-up remover.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a 2-in-1 cleaning and care composition and can be used as a 2-in-1 Sponge for cleansing and simultaneous care of the face and / or body skin be used.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a skin care milk or lotion and can be used as a skin care sponge become.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a tonic and can be used as a cleansing sponge or tonic water Water sponge for clearing, refreshing and toning the face and / or body skin be used.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a sunscreen and can for topical application of a Sunscreen used on the skin.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a scrub composition and can be used as a scrub sponge become.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of an antibacterial, anti-acne and disinfectant composition and can be used as an anti-acne sponge or as a disinfectant sponge.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a hair shampoo or hair conditioner composition and may be considered Hair cleaning or conditioner sponge are used.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of an after-shave and can be used as an after-shave sponge.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a fragrant, perfume oil or essential oil-containing composition and can be used as a scented sponge.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a pigmented rouge or make-up and can be used as make-up or Cover sponge to be used.  

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a hair dye or an oxidizing agent for bleaching the hair and can as a hair dye sponge, especially for coloring selected strands of hair ("Spiked sponge").

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of an antiperspirant composition and may act as an antiperspirant sponge be used.

Another preferred embodiment of the invention contains the water-containing phase in the form of a deodorant composition and can be used as a deodorant sponge be used.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without it to restrict to this.  

example recipes

example 1

Cleaning sponge with sebumregulierender effect

Preparation of the emulsion

Phases 1 and 3 are heated independently to 85 ° C. Phase 2 becomes too Phase 1 given. Subsequently, phase 3 is added to the mixture of phases 1 and 2 at 85 ° C and homogenized for 5 minutes at this temperature. The emulsion is slowly cooled to 35 ° C, then phase 4 is added.

Production of polyurethane sponges by in-situ foaming with the emulsion

The emulsion prepared above is stirred at room temperature with stirring Prepolymer resin Hypol® 2002 in a weight ratio of 65: 35 combined. The mixture will Strongly stirred for 10 seconds and then in an open cylindrical shape with filled a diameter of 6 cm. In this form, the mixture is allowed to continue foam and harden. The foam body thus prepared, after 2 hours in Slices or other suitable shapes are cut.  

The preparation of the sponges shown in the other examples is carried out in corresponding way.

Example 2

Make-up remover sponge

Example 3

cleaning sponge

Example 4

Skin care sponge for topical application of a body lotion

Example 5

Facial Cleaning Sponge

Example 6

Clarifying Facial Toner Sponge (Toning Pad)

Example 7

Body care sponge for topical application of a sunscreen emulsion

Example 8

Exfoliating sponge

Example 9

Anti-acne sponge

Example 10

Hair Cleaning Sponge

Example 11

Body cleansing sponge with moisturizing effect (2-in-1 sponge)

Example 12

Sponge with coldwell fixation for perms

Example 13

Hair Conditioner Sponge

Example 14

Haarfärbeschwamm

Example 15 Hair Conditioner sponge

component Amount [wt%] Hypol® 2002 35,00 Eumulgin® B2 0.30 cetearyl 3.30 isopropyl 0.50 paraffin oil 0.30 Dehyquart®A-CA 2.00 Salcare®SC96 1.00 citric acid 0.40 Gluadin® WQ 2.00 pantolactone 0.50 Phenonip.RTM 0.80 water ad 100

Example 16 Hair dyeing sponge with oxidation dye precursors

component Amount [wt%] Hypol® 2002 35,00 cetearyl 4.00 Ceteareth-20 0.80 Cutina® KD 16 2.00 sodium 0.50 L (+) - ascorbic acid 0.50 ammonium sulfate 0.50 1,2-propylene glycol 1.20 Polymer JR®400 0.30 p-aminophenol 0.35 p-toluenediamine 0.85 2-methyl 0.14 6-methyl-3-aminophenol 0.42 dioctyl 0.50 Sodium PCA 1.00 Gluadin® WQ 1.00 ammonia 1.50 water ad 100

Example 17 Sponge with developer dispersion for coloring cream from example 16

component Amount [% by weight 02488 00070 552 001000280000000200012000285910237700040 0002010208678 00004 02369] Hypol® 2002 35,00 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 2.10 Hydrogen peroxide (50%) 12,00 Turpinal® SL 1.70 Carbomer 0.50 Gluadin® WQ 0.30 Salcare® SC 96 1.00 water ad 100

For the dyeing, the cream of Example 16 was first applied to the hair. Subsequently, the developer dispersion from Example 17 was applied. there has been a received intense red tint of the hair.

Example 18 Toner shampoo sponge

Component quantity [Wt .-%] Hypol® 2002 35,00 SODIUM LAURETH SULFATE 14.00 Cocamidopropyl betaines 3.50 Akypo® RLM 45 NV 14.70 Plantacare® 1200 UP 4.00 Cremophor® RH 40 0.80 Dye C.I. 12 719 0.02 Dye C.I. 12 251 0.02 Dye C.I. 12 250 0.04 Dye C.I. 56 059 0.03 preservation 0.25 perfume oil q.s. octyldodecanol 0.30 Gluadin® WQ 1.00 Salcare® SC 96 0.50 water ad 100

When applying this tinting shampoo on the hair they get one shiny, light blonde color.  

Example 19

Antiperspirant sponge and deodorant sponge

100 g of the thus prepared antiperspirant microemulsion or deodorant microemulsion are foamed with 54 g Hypol® 2002, as described in Example 1, foamed.

Example 20

After-shave sponge

Example 21

Makeup sponge

Example 22

Scented sponge

Used raw materials

Claims (15)

1. A flexible, finished carrier based on a polyurethane foam for the cosmetic or dermatological treatment of the skin, the hair, the mucosa and the skin appendages, containing the in situ reaction product

• a) a urethane prepolymer having free isocyanate groups with
• b) a liquid aqueous phase containing at least one surfactant and at least one dispersed fatty substance,

characterized in that the liquid phase further contains at least one cosmetic or dermatological active or care substance which is selected from

• A) natural, if desired, chemically modified polymers selected from cellulose ethers, quaternized cellulose derivatives, polyquaternium-24, guar gum, cationic guar derivatives, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, Shellac, amylose, amylopectin, dextrins, chemically and / or thermally modified starches and chitosan and its derivatives,
• B) Synthetic polymers that do not act as superabsorbents but swell with water, forming a gel-like true or colloidal solution,
• C) α-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their derivatives,
• D) vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups B, C and H and their derivatives,
• E) herbal extracts selected from the divisible plant tissue of plants (Meristem), green tea (Camellia sinensis), witch hazel, chamomile, marigold, pansy, peony, horse chestnut, sage, willow bark, cinnamon tree, chrysanthemum, oak bark, stinging nettle , Hops, burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almonds, spruce needles, sandalwood, juniper, coconut, kiwi, guava, lime, mango, apricot, wheat, melon, orange, grapefruit, avocado, rosemary, birch, beech sprouts, mallow, meadowfoam , Yarrow, quinoa, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, marshmallow (Althaea), mallow (Malva sylvestris), violets, blackcurrant leaves, coltsfoot, finned cabbage, ginseng, ginger root, sweet potato, olives (Olea europaea) and citrus fruit seeds,
• F) extracts of algae and microorganisms,
• G) antiperspirant active substances selected from astringent water-soluble inorganic and organic aluminum, zinc and zirconium salts and mixtures thereof,
• H) deodorizing agents,
• I) silicic acids, natural and synthetic silicates, aluminosilicates, kaolin, talc and apatites, which may be modified with C 2-3 -carboxylic acids,
• J) pigments selected from the oxides of titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, cerium, magnesium and bismuth, which may, if desired, be surface-modified, boron nitride particles, water-insoluble pearlescent pigments and water-insoluble organic pigments,
• K) water-soluble and oil-soluble organic sunscreen filters,
• L) cosmetic abrasives selected from polymer particles and vegetable abrasives which, if desired, may be coated with fatty substances,
• M) Dyes and oxidation dye (precursors) for dyeing keratinic fibers,
• N) oxidizing and reducing agents,
• O) sebumregulierenden, soothing, anti-inflammatory, astringent or circulation-promoting agents.

2. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a sponge for facial or Body cleansing or removing make-up. 3. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a 2-in-1 sponge for cleaning and simultaneous care of the face and / or body skin. 4. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a skin care sponge. 5. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a cleansing sponge or water Tonic Water sponge for clarifying, refreshing and toning the face and / or face Body skin.   6. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 for the topical application of a Sunscreen on the skin. 7. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a peeling sponge. 8. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as an anti-acne sponge or as Disinfection sponge. 9. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as Haarreinigungs- and Haarconditio nerschwamm. 10. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as an after-shave sponge. 11. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a fragrance sponge. 12. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as make-up and cover sponge. 13. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a hair dyeing sponge and / or Highlights sponge. 14. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as antiperspirant sponge. 15. Use of a carrier according to claim 1 as a deodorant sponge.