DE102023203936A1 - Retinol-containing cosmetic preparation with good skin tolerance - Google Patents

Abstract

A combination of retinol with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, natural, in particular of plant origin, lipids, skin care substances, hyaluronic acid and/or bakuchiol enables the provision of a topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparation, which enables balanced skin tolerance with good effectiveness and good care properties, improvement of the elasticity and/or tone of the skin and strengthening of the regeneration of the skin.

Description

The present invention relates to topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparations comprising a substance combination of retinol with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, natural, in particular of plant origin, lipids, skin care substances, hyaluronic acid and/or bakuchiol.

The preparations are free of acrylates, especially carbomers, and free of BHT.

Retinol, also known as vitamin A, is known for its anti-aging effect and is therefore often used in cosmetic care products. It stimulates cell renewal and supports the body's own collagen production.

However, retinol is also a light- and oxidation-sensitive active ingredient that is difficult to stabilize. It is also known that retinol tends to cause intolerances at higher concentrations and sometimes in combination with light.

The state of the art EP 4076680 A1 describes cosmetic preparations comprising retinol, di-t-butylpentaerythrityltetrahydroxycinnamate and ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt (EDDS).

For example, WO 96/07396 A1 the stabilization of retinol in a cosmetic composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion by using at least one fat-soluble antioxidant active ingredient and/or at least one masking agent. Butylhydroxytoluene (BHT) is mentioned as an example of an antioxidant active ingredient. Ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its derivatives are also mentioned as sequestering agents.

In addition to the problems related to the stabilization of retinol in cosmetic preparations and the associated side effects, such as changes in odor and color, it is important to improve the skin compatibility of the preparations. It is desirable to provide a preparation containing retinol that has a balanced effect between effectiveness, care and skin compatibility.

1. a) ein- oder mehreren Verdickern natürlichen, insbesondere pflanzlichen Ursprungs,
2. b) ein oder mehreren Lipiden,
3. c) ein oder mehreren hautpflegenden Stoffen,
4. d) Hyaluronsäure oder deren Salze und/oder
5. e) Bakuchiol.

The preparation according to the invention comprises retinol and at least two other substances selected from the group consisting of

1. a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular vegetable, origin,
2. b) one or more lipids,
3. c) one or more skin care substances,
4. d) Hyaluronic acid or its salts and/or
5. e) Bakuchiol.

The preparation according to the invention is also free of acrylates, in particular carbomers, and free of BHT.

Advantageously, the preparation comprises, in addition to retinol, at least three further substances selected from groups a) to e), in particular four, advantageously one substance each from groups a) to e).

This means that the preparation according to the invention comprises, in addition to retinol, at least 2, preferably at least 3, in particular 4 and advantageously at least 5 further substances, each selected from a substance from group a) to e).

This also means that in the embodiment with two or three or four or five additional substances, these are each selected from different groups.

For example, the preparation according to the invention comprises, in addition to retinol, a substance from group a, e.g. xanthan gum, a substance from group b, e.g. Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil, a substance from group c, e.g. panthenol, as well as sodium hyaluronate (d) and bakuchiol (e).

Retinol is advantageously used in a proportion of 0.05 to 2 wt.%, in particular between 0.1 and 1 wt.%, advantageously between 0.2 and 0.5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

One or more substances from the group consisting of panthenol, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A lineolate, vitamin A propionate, evening primrose oil, witch hazel, aloe, echinacea, chamomile, linoleic acid, vitamin K, urea, symsitive, licochalcone A, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS EXTRACT or flower oil, allantoin, preferably vitamin A acetate, are advantageously selected as skin care substances. The proportion of skin care substances in the preparation is preferably in the range of 1 to 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, in particular between 3 and 12% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

Bakuchiol is a meroterpene of the terpenophenol class. Bakuchiol has antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Although it has no structural similarity to retinol, bakuchiol shows a functional analogy to retinol through a similar regulation of gene expression between retinol and bakuchiol. In 2018, a randomized double-blind study with 44 volunteers showed that bakuchiol was comparable to retinol in terms of its effectiveness against photoaging (wrinkles, hyperpigmentation), but bakuchiol had better skin tolerance.

Bakuchiol is advantageously used in a proportion of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, in particular between 0.2 and 1 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The lipids are advantageously one or more lipids from the group formed by dibutyl adipate, isopropyl myristate, isodecyl neopentanoate, octyldodecanol, caprylic/capric triglyceride, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, dicaprylyl ether, paraffinum liquidum, C13-16 isoparaffin, isohexadecane, cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Decyl Oleate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Squalane, Stearates, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate/ isopropyl myristates, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isododecane, Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter were chosen.

The proportion of one or more lipids is advantageously chosen in the range from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably in the range from 8% by weight to 25% by weight, particularly preferably in the range from 10% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

Hyaluronic acid (also known as hyaluronan, abbreviation HA, CAS: 9004-61-9) is a glycosaminoglycan that is an important component of connective tissue. HA is characterized by a disaccharide repeating unit according to the following structure.

HA is a linear, acidic polysaccharide that consists of a large number of alternating disaccharide units of 1,3-glycosidically linked N-acetyl-β-D-glucosamine (GlcNAc) and β-D-glucuronic acid molecules (GlcA). Each of the disaccharide basic units is linked to the next by a ß(1-4) bond. The number of basic units can reach more than 10,000 with a molecular weight of 4 million Daltons. Due to its hydrophilic acid groups and hydroxy groups, HA has the ability to form a large number of hydrogen bonds through which hydrations can be added, making it homogeneously miscible with water. In aqueous solution, HA is able to bind more and more water by increasing the average chain distance, since the negative charges cause repulsion of the chain sections that are close to each other. Under physiological conditions, the carboxy groups of HA are practically completely dissociated and represent a polyanionic compound. In general, people talk about hyaluronic acid, regardless of whether HA itself or the salts are meant. Due to its viscoelastic properties and its biocompatibility, HA has therapeutic significance as an injection solution in ophthalmology, orthopedics and cosmetic surgery.

Hyaluronic acid is a natural component of the skin. Two forms of hyaluronic acid are used in cosmetic products, a short-chain and a long-chain form. The short-chain hyaluronic acid penetrates the upper layer of the skin and influences the internal moisture balance. The long-chain hyaluronic acid, on the other hand, is said to have a plumping effect on the skin. It effectively binds moisture in the upper layer of the skin. Its moisture-binding effect results from the fact that it only gradually releases its hydration layer and thus acts on the skin over a long period of time. Other tasks of HA include supplying connective tissue and skin with moisture and nutrients.

The sodium salt of hyaluronic acid is also used as a moisturizer for the production of cosmetic products (Römpp online Lexikon Version 2.5, 2004).

Hyaluronic acid is commercially available in a cross-linked state (e.g. Hylaform@, a cross-linked hyaluronic acid from Biomatrix, NJ, USA; for production see also US-A-4 713 448 , US-A-4 605 691 , APC@ from Fidia, Incert@ from Anika Therapeutics, interge) from LifeCore or Restylane@ from Q-Med).

Hyaluronic acid and/or hyaluronic acid salt is preferably used in a proportion in the range of 0.05 to 3 wt.%, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 1.5 wt.%, preferably in the range from 0.2 to 1 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation.

Surprisingly, it was found that hyaluronic acid or sodium hyaluronate significantly reduces the skin irritation potential of retinol. Therefore, the combination of retinol and hyaluronic acid is predestined to be used according to the invention.

The preparations are free from acrylates, especially carbomers, and BHT. Free from means that their proportion is less than 0.1% by weight, in case one or the other substance could still be present due to introduction or contamination.

The preparation according to the invention advantageously comprises one or more thickeners of natural, in particular vegetable, origin.

Thickeners increase the viscosity and thus reduce the flowability of liquids, making them more viscous. The natural cosmetics industry already uses natural or modified natural thickeners such as xanthan, guar or cellulose derivatives, which are preferred according to the invention.

According to the invention, one or more thickeners are selected from the group consisting of starch, gelatin, casein, konjac root flour, cellulose, xanthan, xanthan gum, algin, scleroglucan, gellan, gellan gum, high acylated gellan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, pectin, acacia senegal gum, carrageenan and/or guar gum.

Thickeners are particularly advantageously selected from the group of thickeners of plant origin.

Thickeners are particularly advantageously selected from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan gum, gellan gum, high acylated gelann gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia senegal gum and/or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate.

Organic natural thickeners, such as starch, gelatin, casein or konjac root flour (glucomannans), as well as natural substances, especially celluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcelluloses (CMC, E 466), hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose are advantageous to choose.

These natural thickeners offer a more skin-friendly alternative to synthetic thickeners and thus fulfill the desire for balanced skin tolerance.

The proportion of one or more thickeners is advantageously chosen in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 2% by weight, advantageously in the range from 0.4 to 1.7% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation.

The preparation according to the invention may also contain other ingredients customary in cosmetics, provided they are not excluded by the invention.

Particularly preferred is the addition of one or more active ingredients selected from the group hydroxyacetophenone, Glycyrrhiza Inflata Root Extract, Q10 and/or thiamidol.

For stabilization, as described in the prior art, di-t-butyl-pentaerythrityltetrahydroxycinnamate compounds, such as those from BASF under the name Tinogard TT, ethylenediaminedisuccinic acid salt, trisodium ethylenediaminedisuccinate, such as under the name Natrlquest ® E30 from Innospec Active Chemicals, tocopherol or EDTA can be used.

According to the invention, the preparations are used for the care, treatment or prevention of aging of the skin, for improving the elasticity and/or tone of the skin, for firming the skin and/or for regenerating/strengthening the skin.

The substance combinations according to the invention of retinol with at least two substances selected from the group consisting of thickeners, natural, in particular plant-based, lipids, skin care substances, hyaluronic acid and/or bakuchiol make it possible to provide a topically applicable, in particular cosmetic or dermatological preparation that has balanced skin compatibility while at the same time being effective and having good care properties. The preparation according to the invention leads to an improvement in the elasticity and/or tone of the skin and to strengthening the regeneration of the skin.

Advantageously, preparations are provided which, in addition to retinol, bakuchiol, sodium hyaluronate, vitamin A acetate, at least one vegetable thickener and panthenol.

Preparations containing retinol, bakuchiol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and a plant-based thickener are also beneficial.

Likewise, a preparation according to the invention is to be formulated which, in addition to retinol, only contains panthenol and vitamin A acetate.

Example

• O/W emulsion (% by weight based on the total mass of the preparation)
• 0.6% xanthan gum
• 0.7% microcrystalline cellulose
• 0.9% phenoxyethanol
• 2% emulsifier
• 7% glycerin
• 0.2% Persea Gratissima Oil
• 0.2% jojoba oil
• 0.2% Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil
• 0.3% retinol
• 0.5% Bakuchiol
• 3% panthenol
• 0.2% Sodium Hyaluronate (200-400 KDa)
• 0.2% tocopherol
• Aqua ad 100%

QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA accepts no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• EP 4076680 A1 [0005]
• WO 9607396 A1 [0006]
• US 4713448 A [0025]
• US 4605691 A [0025]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic or dermatological preparation comprising retinol and at least two substances selected from the groups consisting of a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular plant origin, b) one or more lipids, c) one or more skin care substances, d) hyaluronic acid or its salts and/or e) bakuchiol, wherein the proportion of acrylates and BHT is less than 0.1% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to claim 1 characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of organic, natural, in particular vegetable thickeners are selected as thickeners. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of starch, gelatin, casein, konjac root flour, cellulose, xanthan, xanthan gum, algin, scleroglucan, gellan, gellan gum, high acylated gelan gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia senegal gum, hydroxypropyl starch phosphate, pectin, carrageenan, guar gum are selected as thickeners. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of xanthan gum, gellan, gellan gum, high acylated gelann gum, dehydroxanthan gum, acacia senegal gum and/or hydroxypropyl starch phosphate are selected as thickeners. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more thickeners is selected in the range from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.2 to 2% by weight, advantageously in the range from 0.4 to 1.7% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the lipids used are one or more substances from the group consisting of Dibutyl Adipate, Isopropyl Myristate, Isodecyl Neopentanoate, Octyldodecanol, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Paraffinum Liquidum, C13-16 Isoparaffin, Isohexadecane, Cyclomethicone, Hydrogenated Polydecene, Octyldodecyl Myristate, Decyl Oleate, Butylene Glycol Dicaprylate/Dicaprate, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Hydrogenated Polyisobutene, Isopropyl Isostearate, Cetearyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Stearate, Phenyl Trimethicone, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Ethylhexyl Cocoate, Squalane, Ethylhexyl Stearate, Cetearyl Ethylhexanoate+Isopropyl Myristate, C12-13 Alkyl Lactate, Coco-Caprylate/Caprate, Persea Gratissima Oil, Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil, Jojoba Oil, Coconut Oil, Isopropyl Palmitate, Isododecane, Almond Oil (Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil), Sunflower Oil (Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil), Coco-Caprylate/Caprate and Butyrospermum Parkii Butter can be selected. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more lipids is selected in the range from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably in the range from 8% by weight to 25% by weight, particularly preferably in the range from 10% by weight to 15% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more substances from the group consisting of panthenol, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A lineolate, vitamin A propionate, evening primrose oil, witch hazel, aloe, echinacea, chamomile, linoleic acid, vitamin K panthenol, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, evening primrose oil, witch hazel, aloe, echinacea, chamomile, urea, symsitive, licochalcone A, CALENDULA OFFICINALIS EXTRACT or flower oil, allantoin, linoleic acid and/or vitamin K are selected as skin care substances. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of one or more skin care substances is selected in the range from 1 to 20% by weight, preferably between 2 and 15% by weight, in particular between 3 and 12% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of bakuchiol is selected in the range of 0.1 to 5 wt.%, in particular between 0.2 and 1 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of hyaluronic acid and/or hyaluronic acid salt is selected in the range from 0.05 to 3% by weight, in particular in the range from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, preferably in the range from 0.2 to 1% by weight, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of retinol is selected in the range of 0.05 to 2 wt.%, in particular between 0.1 and 1 wt.%, advantageously between 0.2 and 0.5 wt.%, based on the total mass of the preparation. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition to retinol, bakuchiol, panthenol, hyaluronic acid and a vegetable thickener are included. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims comprising retinol and at least one substance from the groups consisting of a) one or more thickeners of natural, in particular plant origin, b) one or more lipids, c) one or more skin care substances, d) hyaluronic acid or its salts and e) bakuchiol. Use of the preparation according to one of the preceding claims for improving the elasticity and/or tone of the skin and/or for regenerating/strengthening the skin.