DE102021111924B3 - Pattern set with seam allowance inherent in the pattern - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a set with at least two pattern parts (3) for producing a sewn product, the pattern parts (3) having a seam allowance (5) inherent in the pattern part, in each of which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is arranged is.
The pattern parts (3) are characterized in particular by the fact that the seam allowances (5) inherent in the pattern part have at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) in a first pattern part (3), which leads to a second pattern part (3 ) arranged orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) corresponds. Both orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) are arranged and formed on the respective pattern parts (3) in such a way that they are aligned with one another when the seam allowances (5) are superimposed, thereby providing the positioning necessary for the manufacture of the sewn product and determine the alignment of the edges of the pattern pieces (1) with respect to one another.

Description

The invention relates to cut parts with a seam allowance inherent in the cut part for producing a sewn product.

Previously, pattern pieces for the production of sewn products (e.g. for the manufacture of clothing) had corresponding seam allowances of a certain width - this meant that the cutting line of the pattern piece ran evenly parallel to the seam line and uniform pattern piece sides were created.

Due to this uniformity, the seamstress does not have any obvious indications from the pattern pieces as to which pattern piece is to be sewn to which other pattern piece, how and where. This information must be read from separate instructions or from the pattern template, for example. Sewing instructions are sometimes misleading and often difficult to grasp, especially for beginners or hobby sewers. This leads to a great deal of time and also frustration in the production of sewn products. If a seam is sewn incorrectly, the entire sewing product can usually no longer be produced adequately and the seam has to be removed again at great expense. This process often leads to damaged areas in the material, which leads to unnecessary waste and, in case of doubt, to the abandonment of the project.

In some places, sewing instructions call for making small slits in the seam allowance (called “nips” or “gussets”) to mark specific points—for example, where a sleeve meets a shoulder seam.

These offer the seamstress a selective orientation through the incision of the seam allowance placed according to the instructions; However, this is very limited due to the lack of distinguishability of the incisions, their poor visibility in the pattern part, their only selective character and their lack of meaningfulness without the associated sewing instructions.

In addition to the challenges of correctly understanding sewing instructions, these often also contain unclear instructions such as "sew on slightly stretched" (if, for example, two different types of fabric are processed together or a gather is to be achieved), which leave a great deal of room for interpretation as to how much "slightly stretched" or "strongly stretched". These unspecific instructions often lead to uneven results on the sewing product, especially for inexperienced seamstresses. In order to bring more clarity into a pattern template, in 1939 a design form of the pattern template (i.e. the illustration of the pattern part shapes on paper) under the numbers CH 203 681 A respectively. DE 695 119 A protected as a patent, which protected different hatching of the seam allowances that were later to be sewn on top of each other. The form of design protected there made it easier for the seamstress to record in the pattern (i.e. in the paper template) which seam allowances belong together. However, the seamstress still had to independently identify the corresponding pattern part edges or seam allowances of the pattern parts cut from the corresponding material and correctly assemble the parts. Another difficulty with this visualization in the pattern template is the fact that it was and is often unusual to draw the seam allowance in the pattern template.

This circumstance therefore entails its own risks of misunderstandings, for example that the seamstress (out of habit) provides an additional seam allowance when cutting the pattern pieces and thus does not change the shape of the pattern pieces is more correct.

• So beschreibt US 3 824 628 A ein Verfahren zum Zusammennähen von Stoff, bei dem ein Muster auf einem Stück Stoff angebracht wird, die als Nähführungen für die Konstruktion von Nähten, Abnähern und dergleichen dienen,
• Beim Zusammennähen werden an den besagten Markierungszeichen Stecknadeln quer durch das Muster und den Stoff aufgesetzt und beim Abschließen der Nähvorgänge wieder entfernt.

A number of other inventions have been published over the years, concerned with simplifying the assembly of fabric pieces, transferring patterns to fabric, and sewing fabric pieces together into a garment using work instructions:

• So describes U.S. 3,824,628 A a method of sewing fabric together in which a pattern is applied to a piece of fabric to serve as sewing guides for the construction of seams, darts and the like,
• When sewing together, pins are placed across the pattern and the fabric at the said markers and removed again when the sewing processes are completed.

US 2018/ 0 190 149 A1 discloses a code for use in assembling a garment, the code containing a plurality of unique instruction markings required to assemble the component parts into the desired garment.

CH 464 125 A describes a set of fabric pieces that has fabric pieces cut to a specific clothing size and prepared for easy sewing together to thereby To relieve the user of complicated sewing work. Pieces of fabric can be provided with buttonholes or decorative seams from the outset. Likewise, the otherwise necessary ingredients such as taffeta lining, zipper, belt, buttons, costume jewellery, sewing thread, skirt and jacket hangers can also be included in the packaging.

To further facilitate the sewing work, the seams and darts are drawn on the fabric. However, this does not mean that every miscut or wrong sewing can be ruled out from the outset, since the correct superimposition of the fabrics cannot be checked during the sewing process.

CH 256 223 A describes patterns in which the outlines of the pattern pieces take into account the hem and seam allowance and fastening lines are given.

The attachment lines/seam lines are indicated over their entire length by perforations and the connection between the attachment lines on different pattern parts is indicated by designations associated with these lines. The attachment lines of the pattern are punched for faster and more accurate e.g. B. by powdering to be able to be transferred to the fabric to be processed.

US 2004/0 153 195 A1 relates generally to the manufacture of apparel and more particularly to a system and method for the manufacture and inspection of made-to-measure clothing using digital design data. A method is disclosed in which a try-on garment is created from a plurality of master patterns. The base patterns are then modified according to a customer's body shape and fit and/or style preferences and combined to create a sample garment based on the markings and to create customer data. Also disclosed in this regard is the cutting of material for a tailored garment based on the customer's data and the sewing of the cut material to produce the tailored garment.

The object of the invention is to simplify and make clearer the correct assembly of a pattern piece set for the production of a sewn product.

It is also based on the task of enabling quality assurance during the production process of a sewing product.

This object is solved by a pattern set according to claim 1, the subclaims forming preferred embodiments of the invention.

The set of pattern pieces according to the invention comprises pattern pieces with seam allowances inherent in the pattern piece, which have orientation recesses or orientation embossing or a mixture of both.

These orientation cut-outs or orientation embossings in the seam allowances are designed in such a way that they provide information that can be quickly grasped, at which points which pattern parts are to be placed on top of each other or brought together in the manufacturing process - namely, those orientation cut-outs or orientation embossings are always -Put embossings on top of each other that fit exactly into each other.

Orientation recesses or orientation embossings are, within the meaning of the invention, all those recesses or embossings in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern part that are present in at least two seam allowances inherent in the pattern part in identical or corresponding form, so that they have at least one corresponding partner.

Corresponding in the sense of the invention means that orientation recesses or orientation embossings in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern part are designed in such a way that whenever the orientation recesses or orientation embossings are precisely aligned with one another, the pattern parts or pattern part edges provided with them are positioned correctly in relation to one another are to create the corresponding sewing certificate. Consequently, any positioning of cut parts or cut part edges relative to one another that does not produce a precisely fitting meeting of the orientation recesses or orientation embossings along the seam section is incorrect in terms of the correct assembly of the corresponding sewn product.

Aligning within the meaning of the invention means that two orientation cutouts of identical/corresponding shape and size lead to a precisely fitting, at least two-layer cutout of the same shape and size by superimposing at least two layers of material - or that two orientation embossings of identical/corresponding shape and size occur Superimposition of at least two layers of material with their convex and concave sides interlocking in such a way that two identical/corresponding shapes, patterns or markings gen the convex is on the concave side or vice versa.

In principle, in addition to the orientation cut-outs or orientation embossing, other shapes, patterns or markings can be cut or embossed into the seam allowances - such as starting points of seam lines, seam lines or points where pattern pieces meet other seams. These additional instruction cutouts or instruction embossings are characterized in that they are each only cut or embossed into the seam allowance of a seam section and have no corresponding partner.

In addition to orientation recesses or orientation embossings and instruction recesses or instruction embossings, the edges of the pattern pieces can also be designed through specific shaping in such a way that, based on their specific shape, they give instructions as to how they are to be processed in the sense of the sewn product. For example, a bottom edge of a pattern piece that is cut in a wavy shape can mean that this edge has to be turned over to form a 4cm wide hem. Or an edge cut in small zigzag shapes may mean that it needs to be edged with bias binding. These instruction edges are particularly important if a seamstress has already sewn several sets of pattern pieces in the sense of the invention and has already learned the meaning of the specific shapes of the instruction edges. Of course, the information on the edge shapes can also be found in instructions.

Orientation recesses or orientation embossings are preferably designed in such a way that each seam section is assigned its own shape of the orientation recesses or orientation embossings, which shape can be distinguished from the shapes of the other seam sections. According to the invention, this principle is used for at least one section of seam within a pattern set for a sewing product; Not every seam section of a sewn product must necessarily have these orientation cut-outs or orientation embossings in its seam allowance, since this may not always make sense if, for example, a seam section results by itself from previously correctly placed seams. An additional marking of such a seam section could otherwise make the pattern pieces of a pattern piece set more confusing than clearer.

Orientation recesses or orientation embossing can also greatly facilitate the processing of materials to be sewn on stretched (such as cuffs). This is done in that the necessary stretching in the corresponding shapes and arrangement of these shapes of the recesses or embossings is already taken into account in such a way that an accuracy of fit between the corresponding orientation recesses is only generated through the correct stretching when the corresponding cut parts or cut part edges are brought together .

This creates an intuitive and at the same time very specific specification of how much exactly the material to be stretched has to be stretched for the desired result. This is relevant, for example, in the manufacture of baby and children's clothing, where cuffs are often placed on the sleeves, necklines or stomach to optimize the fit of the garment. If these cuffs (e.g. on the sleeves) are sewn on with too little stretch, the sleeve will constantly slip over the hand when worn. If these cuffs are sewn on with too much stretch, it may be difficult for the hand to pass through when putting them on and the cuff pinches when worn on the wrist.

Orientation recesses or orientation embossing may extend from the edge of the seam allowance into the seam allowance and thereby form the shape of the edge of the seam allowance.

However, orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also be arranged at a distance from the edge of the cut piece.

The ideal embodiment will depend in particular on the size of the pattern pieces, the selected width of the seam allowances and the material properties of the material. Smaller shapes, patterns or markings as orientation recesses or orientation embossing can be worked into particularly stable materials than into particularly fine ones.

According to a preferred embodiment, the orientation recesses or orientation embossings can also be selected in the form that they represent numbers or letters, which not only make it easier to place a seam correctly, but also provide information about the order in which the individual work steps are to be carried out.

However, a variant is just as conceivable in which the orientation recesses or orientation embossings have shapes suitable for the sewing project, for example. If, for example, leather crawling shoes are to be sewn, the orientation embossing could be chosen in the form of small footprints, stockings and/or shoes. is the sewing product in turn, for example, a long-sleeved shirt with a forest motif, orientation cut-outs in the form of owls, trees or leaves could be cut into the seam allowance.

Some sewn products - for example a simple skirt, a potholder or a pillowcase - can also consist of only one pattern piece. In this case, the seam allowances inherent in the pattern piece would have orientation recesses or orientation embossing where the seam allowances of the same pattern piece are to be placed on top of each other when sewing (e.g. the two side edges of a pattern piece for a simple skirt).

Within the meaning of the invention, this one pattern part can in turn also have instruction cutouts or instruction embossings as well as instruction edges.

A major advantage of the orientation recesses or orientation embossing is that the accuracy of fit is also indicated during sewing. If, for example, the seam allowances were only printed or dyed to match, it would not be possible to check during the sewing process whether the lower layer of fabric is accidentally distorted (stretched or gathered) or slipped, which is a common problem in practice, especially with very fine or elastic fabrics , which is usually counteracted by extensive pinning with pins or staples.

However, this step is usually tedious and time-consuming. If needles are used, they also pose various risks of injury during the sewing process - such as pricks in the fingers or if you hit a pin with the sewing needle of the sewing machine, one of the two can break and flying fragments can damage sensitive parts of the body in the face of the seamstress (e.g example the eyes). If staples are used, they are usually very disruptive during processing on the sewing machine and usually have to be removed again early on before the passage that has been marked out is sewn because they do not fit well past the sewing foot.

For the hobby sewer, the new seam allowance inherent in the pattern part means that he/she can quickly and intuitively orientate himself on the pattern parts belonging to a sewing product and - where used - sew together correctly thanks to the seam allowance already incorporated into the pattern part -Recesses or orientation embossing, instruction recesses or instruction embossing and/or instruction edges is significantly facilitated. A time-consuming 'reading - understanding - putting on - reinsuring - sewing' is replaced by a faster 'fitting - fitting - sewing'. Time-consuming pinning out before sewing together can be at least reduced, since the invention allows checking at any time whether nothing has slipped.

The sewing process becomes easier, faster and more qualitative. This also prevents errors that can lead to waste, unnecessary material waste, frustration or unusable results. At the same time, comfort, safety and a sense of achievement when sewing are promoted.

The invention can be used for quality assurance in the industrial production of sewn products, since it facilitates the uniform production of stretching or gathering. Furthermore, the training time of seamstresses in a work step can be accelerated by the intuitive handling.

Furthermore, in automated sewing processes, sensors can detect the correct seam allowances due to the different shapes and thus process cut pieces correctly.

The pattern pieces with a seam allowance inherent in the pattern piece according to the invention can be produced in various ways. Orientation recesses can be cut manually with scissors, blade or hand punch. Or - more relevant in practice - mechanically using lasers, punching knives in punching machines or electric cutters. Orientation embossing can be done manually or with an electric embossing machine.

Computer-aided methods of the production process are preferably used for the production of the pattern part sets within the meaning of the invention. These can independently provide an adequate arrangement and configuration of the orientation recesses and orientation embossings in the seam allowances inherent in the pattern part. Furthermore, with the appropriate technology - such as digital body scans - an individual production of the pattern part sets in the sense of the invention according to individual body measurements is provided.

The orientation cut-outs in the seam allowance inherent in the pattern part in the sense of the invention are distinguished from other cutting or cutting off of the seam allowance in such a way that they always serve as a guide for the correct creation of a sewn product. Explicitly not part of the invention are therefore those variants of incising or cutting off the seam allowance if this after be made when setting the corresponding seam sections, which is why they can no longer serve as an orientation function when sewing together and are not part of a pattern piece set. In any case, only simple incisions are made in the seam allowance for this purpose - in most cases in the form of triangles or lines. An incision of more complex, distinguishable shapes - such as numbers or letters - plays no role in this context.

• 1 ein Set mit 3 Schnitteilen gemäß dem Stand der Technik;
• 2 ein Set mit 3 Schnitteilen und einer erfindungsgemäßen Nahtzugabe;
• 3a-3e unterschiedliche Ausführungen der Nahtzugabe;
• 4a-4b Schnitteile mit einem dehnbar zu vernähendem Stoff;
• 5 Schnittteile mit korrespondierenden Prägungen.

Preferred embodiments of the invention are explained in more detail below with reference to drawings. showed

• 1 a set of 3 prior art pattern pieces;
• 2 a set with 3 pattern parts and a seam allowance according to the invention;
• 3a-3e different versions of the seam allowance;
• 4a-4b pattern parts with a stretchable fabric to be sewn;
• 5 Pattern parts with corresponding embossing.

1 shows a pattern part set with 3 pattern parts 3 according to the prior art. Each pattern piece 3 is delimited on the sides by a pattern piece edge 1 . The seam allowance 4 known from the prior art and the seam line 2 are located at a distance from the edge 1 of the pattern piece. Care must be taken to ensure that the correct pattern pieces 3 are aligned exactly to one another in the correct orientation with any stretching that may be necessary. This often results in errors and inaccuracies. Even individual incisions/auxiliary incisions for positioning cannot solve this problem.

2 shows a set of 3 pattern parts 3 according to the present invention. Here, too, each of the pattern pieces 3 initially has a pattern piece edge 1 , a seam line 2 and a seam allowance 5 . In contrast to the prior art, the functional seam allowance 5, which is essential to the invention, enables a simple alignment and exact positioning of the pattern parts 3 to one another. For this purpose, 5 orientation recesses 6 are arranged in the seam allowance. As shown here, the recesses 6 are designed as numbers. In this way, on the one hand, the sequence of the sewing steps can be predetermined, and it can also be determined which section of a pattern piece 3 is to be superimposed and sewn with which section of the same or another pattern piece 3. In addition, with the help of such an orientation cutout 6, the alignment of the cut part 3 in relation to the outside or inside of a fabric can also be determined. As a result, possible errors in the sewing process can be prevented particularly well.

3a until 3e show various preferred embodiments of the seam allowance 5 according to the invention with differently designed orientation recesses 6. In 3a circular recesses 6 are provided. Depending on the material, these can be brought into the patterned parts 3 particularly quickly and inexpensively during the production of the patterned part set according to the invention, for example by punching or by means of a laser cut. They also allow the corresponding holes to be easily centered to one another during the sewing process. However, this cannot prevent 2 pattern pieces from being positioned with the wrong orientation of the fabric (inside/outside) in relation to one another. For this reason, circular recesses or generally rotationally symmetrical recesses are preferably used on unprinted fabrics or fabrics printed on both sides. In cases where the front and the back of a fabric are different, recesses 6 are preferably formed by non-rotationally symmetrical recesses 6 . Depending on the manufacturing process, it can be provided that the recesses 6 extend up to the cutting part edge 1, as in 3c shown, or in the middle of the seam allowance 5, spaced from the cut part edge 1 are arranged. More patterns for the orientation recesses 6 are in the 3d and 3e shown. It remains to be noted that several different patterns of recesses 6 can also be provided on each cut part 3 .

The spacing of the recesses 6 of a blank 3 from one another corresponds in some embodiments to the spacing of the corresponding recesses 6 on the same or another blank 3 to which it is to be sewn.

As in 4a and 4b can be seen, this does not have to be the case when a stretchable fabric is to be sewn with a non-stretchable fabric. In 4a is on the left side a pattern part 3 from a non-stretchable fabric to be sewn and on the right side the 4a a cut piece 3 made of a stretchable material to be sewn is shown in the unstretched state. It can be seen here that the distances between the recesses 6 are smaller in the stretchable fabric to be sewn in an unstretched state than in the non-stretchable one fabric to be sewn on the wrong side. In this case, the corresponding recesses 6 can also be compressed in the unstretched state on the stretchable fabric to be sewn.

In the 4b It can be seen how the stretchable fabric to be sewn is pulled apart along the stretching direction 8, so that the corresponding recesses 6 are aligned with one another. In this way, it is possible to provide information as to how much a stretchable fabric to be sewn should be stretched during manufacture of the sewn product. In the production of corresponding pattern part sets, stretchable fabrics to be sewn are either stretched to make the recesses 6 or a stretching is taken into account in advance when designing and arranging the recesses.

5 shows a further preferred embodiment of the invention, which is used in particular with stronger materials such as leather. Instead of orientation cutouts 6, one or more orientation embossing(s) are provided here. With the help of the orientation embossing, it can be easily determined by touch whether the pattern pieces intended for sewing are correctly positioned and aligned correctly. In this case, the embossings 7 can be placed one inside the other.

Reference List

1)

pattern edge

2)

seam line

3)

cut part

4)

conventional seam allowance

5)

functional seam allowance

6)

orientation recess

7)

orientation embossing

8th)

stretch direction

Claims (9)

Set with at least two pattern parts (3) for producing a sewn product, the pattern parts (3) having a seam allowance (5) inherent in the pattern part, in each of which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is arranged, characterized that the at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) in a first pattern part corresponds to an orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) arranged in a second pattern part and both orientation recesses (6 ) or orientation embossing (7) on the respective pattern pieces (3) are arranged and designed in such a way that they are aligned with one another when the seam allowances (5) are placed one on top of the other, thereby enabling the positioning and alignment of the pattern piece edges (1st ) to each other. set after claim 1 , characterized in that the corresponding orientation recesses (6) by - forms in the seam allowances (5) are formed - identical in shape and size. set after claim 1 or 2 , characterized in that the seam allowance (5) of a first pattern piece has at least two different orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) which are connected to two correspondingly different orientation recesses (6) or orientation embossings (7) correspond to the second pattern piece. set after claim 2 or 3 , characterized in that the orientation recesses (6) extend from the edge (1) of the pattern pieces (3) into the seam allowance (5). set after claim 2 or 3 , characterized in that the orientation recesses (6) are spaced from the edge (1) of the blank (3). Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) have numbers or letters cut into them. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) have outlines, symbols or geometric shapes cut into them. Set according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the seam allowances (5) of the respective pattern pieces (3) have corresponding embossing (7) which align with one another when the seam allowances (5) are placed one on top of the other. Pattern part (3) for use in a set claim 1 which has a seam allowance (5) into which at least one orientation recess (6) or orientation embossing (7) is cut, stamped or embossed.

Images