DE102011088254A1 - Hair-friendly hair dye and perming agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a composition for color and / or shape change of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing component and additionally a polymer (A) having at least one structural unit (A1) in R1 is a C4-30 alkyl radical. The compositions according to the invention have an improvement in the moisture balance, in particular the moisturizing of keratin-containing fibers, an improvement in the smoothness of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, an improvement in the gloss of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, and are suitable for protection against the destructuring of keratin-containing fibers in the color - and / or shape change.

Description

The invention relates to a composition for the color and / or permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers, which contains in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing component and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene). The agents according to the invention are particularly suitable for the reduction of hair damage. Furthermore, the invention relates to a method for using such agents on keratin-containing fibers.

Changing the shape and color of the hair is an important area of modern cosmetics. This allows the hair's appearance to be adapted to current fashion trends as well as to the individual wishes of the individual. In addition to the desired dyeing and shaping performance, these agents should cause as little damage to the hair as possible, and in particular have good skin tolerance. To provide color-changing cosmetic agents, in particular for the skin or keratin-containing fibers such as human hair, the skilled person knows various dyeing systems depending on the requirements of the dyeing.

For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components which under the influence of oxidants or of atmospheric oxygen form the actual dyes with one another. The oxidation dyes are characterized by excellent, long-lasting dyeing results. For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that attach directly to the substrate and do not require an oxidative process to form the paint. Finally, another dyeing process has received great attention, in the precursors of the natural hair dye melanin on the substrate, eg. As hair, are applied, these then form in the context of oxidative processes in the hair natural analog dyes.

If substrates are to be lightened or even bleached, the dyes coloring the substrate are usually decolorized oxidatively using appropriate oxidizing agents, for example hydrogen peroxide.

The permanent deformation of keratin fibers is usually carried out by mechanically deforming the fiber and defining the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or after this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous preparation of a keratin reducing substance, which part of the disulfide bonds of the keratin to thiol groups, so that it splits to a loosening of the peptide crosslinking and due to the tension of the fiber The mechanical deformation leads to a reorientation of the Keratingefüges, and rinses after exposure to water or an aqueous solution. In a second step, the fiber is then treated with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent, under the influence of which disulfide bonds are again knotted, and the keratin structure is then refixed in the predetermined deformation. After a period of action, this is also rinsed and the fiber of the mechanical deformation aids (winder, Papilloten) freed. One such such method is the permanent wave treatment of human hair. This can be used both to create curls and waves in straight hair and to smooth ruffled hair.

The permanent, oxidative staining as well as the hair bleaching and fixation in the context of perm usually take place as an oxidative hair treatment in the presence of oxidizing agents, such as hydrogen peroxide. Unfortunately, the oxidizing agent not only achieves the desired cosmetic effect, but also has a negative effect on the stability, the feel and the appearance of the keratin-containing fiber, in particular the human hair. Such damaged hair looks dull and brittle. In extreme cases, it even leads to hair breakage. In the use of such oxidative hair treatment agents, the convenience of the consumer tends to be overcome by the use of a 2-in-1 product for subsequent applications to conceal the aforementioned undesirable effects.

There is a need to further improve hair care products - especially hair dyes - and to give them further advantageous properties. In particular, the moisture loss of keratinous fibers and the associated deterioration of the mechanical properties and embrittlement should be stopped.

It is therefore an object of the present invention to reduce the above-described side effects of oxidative hair treatments in the context of a 2-in-1 product already during the oxidative hair treatment, without the efficiency of the oxidative cosmetic, in particular with regard to color intensity, color fastness, whitening power or wave effect to deteriorate.

The object of the present invention is therefore to provide cosmetic compositions for color and / or shape modification of keratinous fibers which have improved hair compatibility. Furthermore, it is an object of the present invention to provide an agent which allows the use of increased amounts of oxidation dye precursors and / or oxidants, so that the exposure time of these agents can be shortened without the increased concentration of these irritants to excessive damage to the keratinic fibers leads.

It has now been found that color and / or shape-changing agents, in addition to a color and / or shape-changing component contain specific polymers, avoid the disadvantages mentioned above. Due to the protective effect when using the composition according to the invention the hair and skin compatibility can be significantly improved thereby.

It has been found that the use of these specific polymers in agents for changing the color and / or shape of human hair to improve the moisture balance, in particular the moisturization keratinhaltiger fibers to improve the freshness of keratin fibers, especially human hair, keratinhaltiger to improve the shine Fibers, especially human hair, as well as to protect the destructuring keratinhaltiger fibers.

in der R1 für einen C4-30 Alkylrest steht. A first subject of the invention is therefore an agent for changing the color and / or shape of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing component, characterized in that additionally a polymer (A) comprising at least one structural unit (A1)

where R1 is a C4-30 alkyl radical.

Under keratinic fibers or keratin fibers are furs, wool, feathers and especially human hair to understand. Although the compositions according to the invention are primarily suitable for dyeing keratin fibers, in principle there is nothing to prevent their use in other fields as well.

The agents according to the invention contain the active ingredients in a cosmetic carrier. For the purposes of the invention, this cosmetic carrier is aqueous, alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic. For the purpose of hair coloring such carriers are, for example, creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations which are suitable for use on the hair. For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic carriers are water-containing compositions containing 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, based on the total weight of the application mixture, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. For the purposes of the invention, an aqueous carrier contains at least 30% by weight, in particular at least 50% by weight, of water, based on the total weight of the application mixture. Compositions according to the invention can be formulated as a dyeing agent and / or as a brightening agent for keratinous fibers or as a keratinic fiber modifier. Agents for brightening keratinic fibers usually contain at least one oxidizing agent, dyeing agents contain at least one substantive dye and / or oxidation dye precursors. Agents which simultaneously have a coloring and whitening action usually contain both oxidants and at least one substantive dye and / or oxidation dye precursors. If only substantive dyes are present, for example, the formulation of a dyeing shampoo is possible.

Preferred agents according to the invention are colorants, ie agents for changing the color of keratinic fibers. Among these, the so-called oxidation dyes are particularly preferred. The oxidation colorants of the invention contain at least one coupler and at least one developer component. Coupler and developer components are also known as oxidation dye precursors designated. In addition, the oxidation colorants according to the invention may also contain substantive dyes as nuances. Agents preferred according to the invention for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers are accordingly characterized in that they additionally contain, based on their weight, from 0.001 to 5% by weight of one or more oxidation dye precursors and / or direct dyes. These are described in detail below.

The compositions according to the invention contain polymer (A) as a care substance for the prevention or compensation of moisture loss and for the improvement of the mechanical properties, in particular for the prevention or compensation of brittleness of the keratinic fibers.

in der R1 für einen C4-30 Alkylrest steht. The agents according to the invention comprise a polymer (A) having at least one structural unit (A1)

where R1 is a C4-30 alkyl radical.

In a preferred embodiment, the radical R1 is a C4-26, preferably C5-18 and in particular C6-16 carbon radical. Particular preference is given to radicals R 1 having an even number of carbon atoms. Very particular preference is given to using C 8 -carbon radicals. The radical R1 may be branched or linear but is preferably linear. The radical R1 is particularly preferably a linear C8 carbon radical (n-octyl).

Preferred polymers (A) are based on at least 90% by weight, preferably at least 95% by weight and in particular at least 97% by weight, of the structural unit (A1). Particular preference is given to polymers (A) which are based exclusively on the structural unit (A1).

The polymer (A) is preferably obtained by the polimerization and optionally subsequent hydrogenation of 1-alkenes. Particularly preferred polymers (A) are, preferably hydrogenated poly (1-alkenes), preferably (hydrogenated) poly (1-octene), (hydrogenated) poly (1-decene), (hydrogenated) poly (1-dodecene), (hydrogenated ) Copolymers of 1-decene and 1-dodecene, but especially hydrogenated poly (1-decene).

The solidification point of preferred polymers (A) is preferably in the range of 50 to 110 ° C, preferably 60 to 100 ° C, and more preferably 70 to 90 ° C.

Preferred agents of the invention contain, based on their total weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1.25 wt .-% of the polymer (A).

The polymer (A), in particular the hydrogenated poly (1-decene) is incorporated into the color and / or shape change agent of the invention not in pure form but in prefabricated, in particular stabilized form. Particularly suitable additives are polyethylene, which, based on the total weight of the polymer (A) used, preferably in amounts of 1.0 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 2.0 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular of 3 , 0 to 6.0 wt .-% is used. For stabilization, the polymer (A) is preferably formulated together with antioxidants, with tocopherol in particular having proven to be a suitable stabilizing agent.

• – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Mittel zur Farb- und/oder Formveränderung,0,01 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,1 bis 7,5 Gew.-%, weiter bevorzugt 0,25 bis 5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5 bis 2,5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,5 bis 1,25 Gew.-% hydriertes Poly(1-Decen);
• – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des eingesetzten hydrierten Poly(1-Decens), 1,0 bis 10 Gew.%, vorzugsweise 2,0 bis 8,0 Gew.-% und insbesondere 3,0 bis 6,0 Gew.-% Polyethylen; – bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht des eingesetzten hydrierten Poly(1-Decens), 1 bis 100 ppm, vorzugsweise 2 bis 50 ppm und insbesondere 5 bis 20 ppm Tocopherol.

In summary, particularly preferred agents for color and / or shape change,

• Based on the total weight of the color and / or shape change agent, 0.01 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%, More preferably 0.25 to 5 wt. particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5% by weight and in particular 0.5 to 1.25% by weight hydrogenated poly (1-decene);
• - Based on the total weight of the hydrogenated poly (1-decene) used, 1.0 to 10 wt.%, Preferably 2.0 to 8.0 wt .-% and in particular 3.0 to 6.0 wt .-% polyethylene ; - Based on the total weight of the hydrogenated poly (1-decene) used, 1 to 100 ppm, preferably 2 to 50 ppm and especially 5 to 20 ppm tocopherol.

An exemplary formulation comprising about 95 weight percent hydrogenated poly (1-decene), about 5 weight percent polyethylene and about 10 ppm tocopherol is sold under the name ^Pionier® PLW PAO E by Hansen & Rosenthal KG.

The color and / or shape change agents according to the invention preferably contain less than 5.0% by weight, preferably less than 2.0% by weight, more preferably less than 1.0% by weight and in particular less than 0, 1 wt .-% mineral oil. Very particularly preferred agents are free of mineral oil. In the context of the present application, the term mineral oil means hydrocarbons which are liquid at room temperature, in particular paraffinic (saturated chainlike) hydrocarbons, naphthenic (saturated ringlike) hydrocarbons, aromatic hydrocarbons and alkenes. Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain less than 2.0% by weight, preferably less than 1.0% by weight, preferably less than 0.1% by weight and in particular no liquid (cyclo) alkane ,

The agents according to the invention are used particularly advantageously for the color change of keratinic fibers. Agents preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that the agent contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one substantive dye and / or at least one precursor of naturally-analogous dyes and / or at least one brightener.

In a first embodiment, the color-changing components are selected from oxidation dye precursors. The oxidation dye precursors are preferably used in an amount of 0.001 to 25 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 20 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

Very particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor, wherein the weight fraction of all oxidation dye precursors between 0.001 and 20 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 10 wt .-% and in particular between 0.2 and 5.0% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

In a first preferred embodiment, the colorant contains at least one developer component. It may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-phenylenediamine derivative or one of its physiologically acceptable salts. Particularly preferred p-phenylenediamines are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, 2-chloro-p-phenylenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine and N-phenyl-p-phenylenediamine, 2- (2-hydroxyethyl) -p-phenylenediamine, N- (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) -N- [3- (1H-imidazol-1-yl) propyl] amine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

It may further be preferred according to the invention to use as developer component compounds which contain at least two aromatic nuclei which are substituted by amino and / or hydroxyl groups. Preferred binuclear developer components are in particular: N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -N, N'-bis (4'-aminophenyl) -1,3-diamino-propan-2-ol and bis (2-hydroxy) hydroxy-5-aminophenyl) methane and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, it may be preferred according to the invention to use as the developer component a p-aminophenol derivative or one of its physiologically tolerable salts. Preferred p-aminophenols are in particular p-aminophenol, N-methyl-p-aminophenol, and 4-amino-3-methyl-phenol and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Further, the developer component may be selected from o-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 2-amino-5-methylphenol and its physiologically acceptable salts.

Furthermore, the developer component may be selected from heterocyclic developer components, such as the pyridine, pyrimidine, pyrazole, pyrazolo-pyrimidine derivatives and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Preferred pyrimidine derivatives are in particular 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine and 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine and their physiologically acceptable salts.

A preferred pyrazole derivative is 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and its physiologically acceptable salts.

Compositions preferred according to the invention for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers are characterized in that they comprise at least one developer component as the oxidation dye precursor, preferred developer components being selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino -p-phenylenediamine, 1,3-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4'-aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 1,10-bis- (2 ', 5'- diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2- Hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole.

The colorants of the invention may further contain at least one coupler component.

As coupler components m-phenylenediamine derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives are generally used. Suitable coupler substances are in particular 1-naphthol, 1,5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1-acetoxy-2-methoxynaphthalene, resorcinol, 4-chloro-resorcinol and 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and their physiologically tolerated salts.

• (A) m-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 5-Amino-2-methylphenol, 3-Amino-2-chlor-6-methylphenol, 5-Amino-4-chlor-2-methylphenol, 5-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-2-methylphenol und 2,4-Dichlor-3-aminophenol,
• (B) o-Aminophenol und dessen Derivate, beispielsweise 2-Amino-5-ethylphenol,
• (C) m-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate wie beispielsweise 2,4-Diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-Bis-(2',4'-diaminophenoxy)-propan, 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)benzol, 2,6-Bis-(2'-hydroxyethylamino)-1-methylbenzol, 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol und 2-({3-[(2-Hydroxyethyl)amino]-2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl}amino)ethanol,
• (D) o-Diaminobenzol und dessen Derivate,
• (E) Di-beziehungsweise Trihydroxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise 2-Methylresorcin und 1,2,4-Trihydroxybenzol,
• (F) Pyridinderivate wie beispielsweise 3-Amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridin, 2,6-Diaminopyridin, 2,6-Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridin, 2-Amino-3-hydroxypyridin und 3,5-Diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridin,
• (G) Naphthalinderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Naphthol und 2-Methyl-1-naphthol,
• (H) Morpholinderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxybenzomorpholin,
• (I) Chinoxalinderivate,
• (J) Pyrazolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-Phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-on,
• (K) Indolderivate wie beispielsweise 6-Hydroxyindol,
• (L) Pyrimidinderivate oder
• (M) Methylendioxybenzolderivate wie beispielsweise 1-(2'-Hydroxyethyl)-amino-3,4-methylendioxybenzol

sowie deren physiologisch verträgliche Salze. According to preferred coupler components are

• (A) m-Aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5- (2'-hydroxyethyl ) -amino-2-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol,
• (B) o-aminophenol and its derivatives, for example 2-amino-5-ethylphenol,
• (C) m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxy-ethanol, 1,3-bis (2 ', 4'-diaminophenoxy) -propane, 1-methoxy-2-amino-4- (2' -hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 2,6-bis (2'-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene, 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol, and 2 - ({3 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-methoxy-5-methylphenyl} amino) ethanol,
• (D) o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives,
• (E) di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as, for example, 2-methylresorcinol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene,
• (F) pyridine derivatives such as 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine and 3,5-diamino 2,6-dimethoxy,
• (G) naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol and 2-methyl-1-naphthol,
• (H) morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine,
• (I) quinoxaline derivatives,
• (J) pyrazole derivatives such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one,
• (K) indole derivatives such as 6-hydroxyindole,
• (L) pyrimidine derivatives or
• (M) Methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene

and their physiologically acceptable salts.

Particularly preferred coupler components according to the invention are 1-naphthol, 1,5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 2,6- Dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and its physiologically acceptable salts.

The coupler components are preferably used in an amount of 0.005 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the ready-to-use oxidation colorant.

Developer components and coupler components are generally used in approximately molar amounts to each other. Although the molar use has proven to be expedient, a certain excess of individual oxidation dye precursors is not disadvantageous, so that developer components and coupler components in a molar ratio of 1: 0.5 to 1: 3, in particular 1: 1 to 1: 2 , can stand. Here, oxidation colorants of the present invention containing the coupler component (s) in an amount of 0.01 to 20 wt%, preferably 0.5 to 5 wt%, and the developer component (n) in an amount of 0, are preferable. 01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably from 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total oxidation colorant included.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one precursor of a naturally-analogous dye. As precursors of natural analog dyes preference is given to using those indoles and indolines which have at least one hydroxyl or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring. Particularly preferred derivatives of indoline are 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and 2,3-dioxoindoline (isatin) and their physiologically acceptable salts. A particularly preferred derivative of indole is 5,6-dihydroxyindole and its physiologically acceptable salts. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the indole or indoline derivatives in an amount of 0.05-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-5% by weight, in each case based on their total weight.

In a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention comprise at least one substantive dye. Direct dyes can be subdivided into anionic, cationic and nonionic substantive dyes. The substantive dyes are preferably selected from the nitrophenylenediamines, the nitroaminophenols, the azo dyes, the anthraquinones or the indophenols and their physiologically tolerated salts.

Particularly suitable anionic direct dyes are 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 10,316, Acid Yellow 1, Food Yellow No. 1), 2- (indan-1,3-dione-2). yl) quinoline-x, x-sulfonic acid (mixture of mono- and disulfonic acid) (CI 47,005, D & C Yellow No. 10, Food Yellow No. 13, Acid Yellow 3, Yellow 10), 5-hydroxy-1- (4- sulfophenyl) -4 - [(4-sulfophenyl) -azo] pyrazole-3-carboxylic acid trisodium salt (CI 19,140, Food Yellow No. 4, Acid Yellow 23), 3 - [(4-phenylamino) phenyl] azobezenesulfonic acid, sodium salt ( CI 13.065; Ki406; Acid Yellow 36), 4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -benzenesulfonic acid, sodium salt (CI 15.510, Acid Orange 7), 6-hydroxy-5 - [(4-sulfonaphth-1 -yl) azo] -2,4-naphthalenedisulfonic acid trisodium salt (CI 16,255; Ponceau 4R; Acid Red 18); 8-amino-1-hydroxy-2- (phenylazo) -3,6-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 17,200; Acid Red 33; Red 33), N- [6- (diethylamino) -9- (2,4-disulfophenyl) -3H-xanthen-3-ylidene] -N-ethyl-urethane-ammonium hydroxide res salt, sodium salt (C.I. 45.100; Acid Red 52), 2 ', 4', 5 ', 7'-tetrabromo-4,5,6,7-tetrachloro-3', 6'-dihydroxyspiro [isobenzofuran-1 (3H), 9 '[9H] xanthene ] -3-one disodium salt (CI 45.410; Acid Red 92), 3-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfonphenyl) azo] -2-naphthalenecarboxylic acid calcium salt (CI 15.850: 1, Pigment Red 57: 1), 1,4-bis [(2-sulfo-4-methylphenyl) amino] -9,10-anthraquinone disodium salt (CI 61.570; Acid Green 25), bis [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] - (3, 7-disulfo-2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) carbenium inner salt, sodium salt (CI 44,090, Food Green No. 4, Acid Green 50), N- [4 - [(2,4-disulfophenyl) [4-] ethyl (phenylmethyl) amino) phenyl] methylene] -2,5-cyclohexadien-1-ylidene] -N-ethylbenzenemethanamine hydroxide, inner salt, sodium salt (CI 42,080, Acid Blue 7), (2-sulfophenyl) di [4- (ethyl ((4-sulfophenyl) methyl) amino) phenyl] -carbenium disodium salt betaine (CI 42.090, Acid Blue 9, FD & C Blue No. 1), 1-amino-4- (cyclohexylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone 2-sulfonic acid sodium salt (CI 62045; Acid Blue 62), 1-hydroxy-4 - [(4-methyl-2-sulfophenyl) amino] -9,10- anthraquinone sodium salt (C.I. 60.730; D & C Violet No. 2; Acid Violet 43), 5-amino-4-hydroxy-6 - [(4-nitrophenyl) -azo] -3- (phenylazo) -2,7-naphthalenedisulfonic acid disodium salt (CI 20,470, Acid Black 1), 3 -Hydroxy-4 - [(2-hydroxynaphth-1-yl) azo] -7-nitro-1-naphthalenesulfonic acid-chromium complex (3: 2) (CI 15,711; Acid Black 52), 3 ', 3' ', 4,5,5 ', 5' ', 6,7-Octabromphenolsulfonphthalein (tetrabromophenol blue).

Preferred anionic substantive dyes are those having the international designations or trade names Acid Yellow 1, Acid Yellow 10, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Orange 7, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 52, Pigment Red 57: 1, Acid Blue 7 , Acid Green 50, Acid Violet 43, Acid Black 1 and Acid Black 52 known compounds.

Particularly suitable cationic substantive dyes are di [4- (diethylamino) phenyl] [4- (ethylamino) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 42,595, Basic Blue 7), di [4- (dimethylamino) phenyl] [4- (phenylamino ) naphthyl] carbenium chloride (CI 44.045; Basic Blue 26), 8-amino-2-bromo-5-hydroxy-4-imino-6 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl) amino] -1 (4H) - naphthalene chloride (CI 56.059, Basic Blue No. 99), tri (4-amino-3-methylphenyl) carbenium chloride (CI 42.520, Basic Violet 2), di (4-aminophenyl) (4-amino-3-methylphenyl ) carbenium chloride (CI 42.510 Basic Violet 14), 1 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI 12.250, Basic Brown 16), 1 - [(4-amino-3 -nitrophenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammonio) -2-naphthol chloride (CI 12,251, Basic Brown 17), 3 - [(4-amino-2,5-dimethoxyphenyl) azo] -N, N, N-trimethylbenzeneamine chloride (CI 12.605, Basic Orange 69), 2 - [((4-dimethylamino) phenyl) azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride (Basic Red 51), 2-hydroxy-1 - [(2- methoxyphenyl) azo] -7- (trimethylammon io) -naphthalene chloride (C.I. 12.245; Basic Red 76), 2- [4-aminophenyl] azo] -1,3-dimethyl-1H-imidazolium chloride (Basic Orange 31), 3-methyl-1-phenyl-4 - [(3- (trimethylammonio) phenyl ) azo] pyrazol-5-one chloride (CI 12,719, Basic Yellow 57), 1-methyl-4 - ((methylphenylhydrazono) methyl) pyridinium methyl sulfate (Basic Yellow 87), 1- (2-morpholinium propylamino) - 4-hydroxy-9,10-anthraquinone methylsulfate, 4-formyl-1-methylquinolonium p-toluenesulfonate and substantive dyes containing a heterocycle having at least one quaternary nitrogen atom.

Suitable nonionic substantive dyes are in particular nonionic nitro and quinone dyes and neutral azo dyes.

Suitable blue nitro dyes are, in particular, 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet BS), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -benzene (HC Blue 2), 4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-methoxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Blue 11), 4- [ethyl- (2- hydroxyethyl) amino] -1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Blue 12), 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitro-4-N-ethyl-N- ( 2-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene (HC Blue 15), 1-amino-3-methyl-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -6-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 1), 1- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -4- [ di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Violet 2).

Suitable red nitro dyes are, in particular, 1-amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 7), 2-amino-4,6-dinitrophenol (picramic acid) and salts thereof, 1,4-diamino 2-nitrobenzene (CI 76.070), 4-amino-2-nitro-diphenylamine (HC Red 1), 1-amino-4- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Red 13) , 1-Amino-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-chloro-2-nitrobenzene, 4-Amino-1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 3), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrotoluene, 4-amino-3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol, 4 - [(2-nitrophenyl) amino] phenol (HC Orange 1), 1 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -4- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2-nitrobenzene (HC Orange 2), 1-amino-5-chloro-4 - [(2,3- dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 10), 5-chloro-1,4- [di (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Red 11), 2} - [(2 Hydroxyethyl) amino] -4,6-dinitrophenol and its salts, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid, 2 - [(4-amino-2-nitrophenyl) amino] benzoic acid, 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-4-nitrophenol , 2-amine o-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] -3-nitrophenol (HC Red BN), 1,2,3,4-tetrahydro-6-nitroquinoxaline, 6-hydroxy-5- ((2-methoxy-5-methyl-4-sulfophenyl) azo) -2-naphthalenesulfonic acid (Curry Red).

Suitable yellow nitro dyes are in particular 1,2-diamino-4-nitrobenzene (CI 76,020), 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -2-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 2), 1- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -2- [ (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 4), 1-amino-2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 5), 4 - [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl ) -amino] -3-nitro-1-trifluoromethylbenzene (HC Yellow 6), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-5-nitrobenzene, 2-amino-4-nitrophenol, 1- (2-Hydroxyethoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 2,3- (dihydroxypropoxy) -3-methylamino-4-nitrobenzene, 3 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -1-methoxy-4-nitrobenzene hydrochloride (HC Yellow 9), 1-chloro-2,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 10), 2 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -5-nitrophenol (HC Yellow 11), 1 - [(2'-ureidoethyl) amino] -4-nitrobenzene, 1-amino-4 - [(2-aminoethyl) amino] -5-methyl-2-nitrobenzene, 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitro-1-methylbenzene, 1-chloro-4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene (HC Yellow 12), 4 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-nitrobenzene 1-trifluormet hylbenzene (HC Yellow 13).

Suitable quinone dyes are, in particular, 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4-methylamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61,505, Disperse Blue 3), mixtures of 1,4-bis [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] anthraquinone 9,10-quinone with 1 - [(2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -4 - [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] anthra-9,10-quinone and 1,4-bis [(3-hydroxypropyl) amino] anthracene 9,10-quinone (Disperse Blue 377), 1,4-diamino-9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61.100, Disperse Violet 1), 1-amino-4- (methylamino) -9,10-anthraquinone (CI 61.105, Disperse Violet 4, Solvent Violet No. 12), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (Lawsone, CI 75,480, Natural Orange 6), 1,4-bis [(2,3-dihydroxypropyl) amino] -9,10 -anthracenedione (HC Blue 14).

Suitable neutral azo dyes are in particular 1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methyl-4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (CI 11.210, Disperse Red 17), 1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl ) amino] -4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] benzene (Disperse Black 9), 4 - [(4-aminophenyl) azo] -1- [di (2-hydroxyethyl) amino] -3-methylbenzene (HC Yellow 7), 2,6-diamino-3 - [(pyridin-3-yl) azo] -pyridine, 4 - [(4-nitrophenyl) azo] -aniline (CI 11.005, Disperse Orange 3).

Furthermore, the agents according to the invention may also naturally occurring dyes such as indigo (Indigoferia tinctoria), henna red (Lawsonia inermis), henna neutral or henna black. Other preferred natural dyes are included, for example, in chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, catechu, sedre, and alkana root.

The agents according to the invention preferably contain the substantive dyes in an amount of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, based on their total weight.

It is not necessary for the oxidation dye precursors or the direct dyes to be in each case homogeneous compounds. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, in minor amounts, further components may be included, as far as they do not adversely affect the dyeing result or for other reasons, e.g. toxicological, must be excluded.

The compositions according to the invention for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers can also be prepared directly before use from two or more separately packaged preparations. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction.

Another object of the present invention is therefore an inventive means for dyeing and / or brightening keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, which immediately before application to the hair of a flowable preparation A, an oxidizing agent preparation B containing at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid carriers and optionally a preparation C, which are mixed together to form a dyeing and / or Aufhellansatz is obtained. One or more of these preparations A, B and / or C accordingly contain polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene). Oxidation dye precursors and / or substantive dyes are usually contained in the preparation A.

The mixture of formulations A, B and C prior to use results in an application mixture containing polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene) as well as oxidants and / or dyes and / or dye precursors.

The preparations A and B are particularly preferably used together in a weight ratio of 4: 1 to 1: 4, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 and in particular 1: 2 to 1: 1.5 mixed. Preferred mixing ratios of (A + B) to C are in the range from 120: 1 to 1: 1, preferably from 100: 1 to 1.5: 1, more preferably from 80: 1 to 2: 1 and in particular from 50: 1 to 3: 1.

The agents according to the invention are preferably provided as brightening agents (hereinafter also referred to as bleaching agents) and / or as colorants. Agents which simultaneously dye and brighten are also referred to as lightening dyes.

In the case of the multi-component agents according to the second embodiment of the present invention, the developer-coupler type oxidation dye precursors are preferably contained in the preparation A.

The oxidizing agent preparation B contains at least one oxidizing agent selected from hydrogen peroxide and its addition compounds to solid supports. As the oxidant of the present invention, hydrogen peroxide itself is preferably used. The hydrogen peroxide is used as a solution or in the form of a solid addition compound of hydrogen peroxide to inorganic or organic compounds such as sodium perborate, sodium percarbonate, magnesium percarbonate, sodium percarbamide, polyvinylpyrrolidone · H ₂ O ₂ (n is a positive integer greater than 0), urea peroxide and melamine peroxide used.

Very particularly preferred according to the invention are aqueous hydrogen peroxide solutions. The concentration of a hydrogen peroxide solution is determined on the one hand by the legal requirements and on the other hand by the desired effect; preferably 6-12% solutions in water are used. Agents preferred according to the invention for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers are characterized in that they contain 0.5 to 15% by weight, preferably 1 to 12.5% by weight, particularly preferably 1 to 10% by weight and in particular 1 to 8 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ) included.

R1 für eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, eine C₂-C₆-Alkenylgruppe, eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkylgruppe, eine C₁-C₆-Alkoxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine Carboxy-C₂-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine Heteroaryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, eine Arylgruppe oder eine Heteroarylgruppe steht,
R2, R3 und R4 jeweils unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff, eine C₁-C₆-Alkylgruppe, ein Halogenatom oder eine C₁-C₆-Acylgruppe steht, mit der Maßgabe, dass zumindest einer der Reste R2, R3 und R4 für eine C₁-C₆-Acylgruppe steht,
X^– für ein physiologisch verträgliches Anion steht,
Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie als das Acylpyridiniumderivat gemäß Formel (I) eine Verbindung, ausgewählt aus 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat und/oder 2-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat, insbesondere 4-Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium-p-toluolsulfonat, enthalten. A preferred agent according to the invention comprises, in addition to the oxidizing agent hydrogen peroxide, at least one cationic acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I)

R _{1 is} a C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl group, a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group, a C ₁ -C ₆ alkoxy-C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl group, a carboxy-C C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl group, an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, a heteroaryl-C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl group, an aryl group or a heteroaryl group,
R 2, R 3 and R 4 are each independently hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl, halogen or C ₁ -C ₆ acyl, provided that at least one of R 2, R 3 and R 4 is C; ₁ -C ₆ acyl group stands,
X ^{- represents} a physiologically acceptable anion,
Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain as the acylpyridinium derivative of the formula (I) a compound selected from 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate and / or 2-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, in particular 4 -Acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate.

An embodiment of the present invention is characterized in that in the composition according to the invention the acylpyridinium derivatives of the formula (I), in particular in particular 4-acetyl-1-methylpyridinium p-toluenesulfonate, in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 4 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition are included.

The oxidizer formulation B is preferably an aqueous, flowable oxidizer formulation. Accordingly, preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the flowable oxidizing agent preparation B - based on its weight - 40 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 50 to 85 wt .-%, particularly preferably 55 to 80 wt .-%, more preferably 60 to Contains 77.5 wt .-% and in particular 65 to 75 wt .-% water.

Preferably, an emulsifier or a surfactant is added to the flowable oxidizing agent preparation B, surfactants depending on the field of use being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers and being selected from anionic, cationic, zwitterionic, ampholytic and nonionic surfactants and emulsifiers. These substances are described in detail below.

The oxidizing agent preparation may contain other oxidizing agents, also referred to as "boosters". The selection of this further peroxo compound is in principle not limited; Typical peroxo compounds known to the person skilled in the art are, for example, ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, percarbonates, such as magnesium percarbonate, peroxides, such as barium peroxide, perborates, urea peroxide and melamine peroxide. Among these peroxo compounds, which can also be used in combination, the inorganic compounds are preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred are the peroxydisulfates, in particular combinations of at least two peroxydisulfates. Here, agents according to the invention are preferred in which the flowable oxidizing agent preparation B additionally contains at least one peroxo compound, which is preferably selected from ammonium and alkali metal persulfates and peroxydisulfates, preferred agents containing at least 2 different peroxydisulfates.

In an application of oxidizing agents, the actual colorant is, as mentioned above, expediently prepared immediately before use by mixing the preparation of the oxidizing agent B with the preparation containing the dye precursors. The resulting ready-to-use hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 12. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures can range between 15 and 40 ° C. After a contact time of 5 to 45 minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, e.g. a dyeing shampoo was used.

In particular, in the case of hair that is difficult to dye, an agent according to the invention may optionally be applied to the hair with additional dye precursors but also without prior mixing with the oxidation component. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes, the oxidation component is then applied, if appropriate after an intermediate rinse. After a further exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and nachshampooniert if desired. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors is intended to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding agent is adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to a second variant, an air oxidation is initially desired, wherein the applied agent preferably has a pH of 7 to 10. In the subsequent accelerated post-oxidation, the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions may be preferred as the oxidizing agent.

For a color change by means of brightening or bleaching of the substrate, for example the hair, in addition to the oxidizing agents, at least one bleaching booster is preferably used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention.

Bleach boosters are preferably used to increase the bleaching action of the oxidizing agent, in particular the hydrogen peroxide. Suitable bleach boosters are
(BV-i) compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid,
and or
(BV-ii) carbonate salts and / or bicarbonate salts, and / or
(BV-iii) organic carbonates, and / or
(BV-iv) carboxylic acids, and / or
(BV-v) Peroxo compounds.

As bleach amplifiers, it is possible to use compounds which, under perhydrolysis conditions, give aliphatic peroxycarboxylic acids having preferably 1 to 10 C atoms, in particular 2 to 4 C atoms, and / or optionally substituted perbenzoic acid. Suitable substances are those which carry oxygen- and / or nitrogen-bonded acyl groups with the stated number of carbon atoms and / or optionally substituted benzoyl groups. Preference is given to polyacylated alkylenediamines, in particular tetraacetylethylenediamine (TAED), acylated triazine derivatives, in particular 1,5-diacetyl-2,4-dioxohexahydro-1,3,5-triazine (DADHT), acylated glycolurils, in particular tetraacetylglycoluril (TAGU), N- Acylimides, in particular N-nonanoylsuccinimide (NOSI), acylated phenolsulfonates, in particular n-nonanoyl or isononanoyloxybenzenesulfonate (n- or iso-NOBS), carboxylic anhydrides, in particular phthalic anhydride, acylated polyhydric alcohols, in particular triacetin, ethylene glycol diacetate and 2,5-diacetoxy- 2,5-dihydrofuran.

The carbonate or bicarbonate salts are preferably selected from at least one compound of the group consisting of ammonium, alkali (especially sodium and potassium), and alkaline earth (especially calcium), carbonate salts and bicarbonate salts. Particularly preferred carbonate or bicarbonate salts are ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium carbonate, sodium bicarbonate, disodium carbonate, potassium bicarbonate, dipotassium carbonate and calcium carbonate. These particularly preferred salts can be used alone or in their mixtures of at least two representatives as bleaching amplifiers.

Preferably usable organic carbonates are selected from at least one compound of the group of carbonic acid monoesters and / or from at least one compound of the group of carbonic acid monoamides.

in der R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, oder eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus steht. Preferably usable carbonic acid monoesters are the carbonic acid monoesters of the formula (BV-1),

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (BV-1), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C _1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Compositions particularly preferably used according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (BV-1) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, iso-propyl, n-butyl, iso-butyl, tert Butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

in der R für einen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, geradkettigen, verzweigten, oder cyclischen, substituierten oder unsubstituierten Kohlenwasserstoffrest, oder eine substituierte oder unsubstituierte Arylgruppe bzw. einen substituierten oder unsubstituierten Heterocyclus steht. Preferred carbonic acid monoamides are the compounds of the formula (BV-2),

in which R is a saturated or unsaturated, straight-chain, branched, or cyclic, substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbon radical, or a substituted or unsubstituted aryl group or a substituted or unsubstituted heterocycle.

In formula (BV-2), R preferably represents a substituted or unsubstituted, straight-chain or branched alkyl, alkenyl or alkynyl radical, preference being given to hydroxy, amino, nitro, sulfonic acid groups or halogens as substituents. Further preferred radicals R are phenyl and benzyl radicals and further substituted representatives. More preferably, R is a C _1-6 alkyl group. Examples of C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl groups according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, isobutyl, tert-butyl, pentyl, isopentyl and hexyl.

Bleach enhancers of the formula (BV-2) which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the radical R in formula (BV-2) is selected from methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, Iso-butyl, tert-butyl and hydroxymethyl and hydroxyethyl radicals.

The acidic H atom of the carbonic acid monoester or monoamide may also be in neutralized form, i. salts of carbonic acid monoesters or carbonic acid monoamides can also be used according to the invention. Carbonic acid monoesters or the carbonic acid monoamides which are present in completely or partially neutralized form, preferably in the form of the alkali metal, ammonium, alkaline earth metal or aluminum salt and in particular in the form of its sodium salt, are preferred according to the invention.

As the bleach-enhancing carboxylic acid, in the compositions of the present invention, at least one compound selected from the group consisting of acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, salicylic acid and orthophthalic acid may preferably be contained.

Bleach boosters are preferably peroxo compounds, in particular inorganic peroxo compounds. Among the bleach-enhancing peroxy compounds according to the invention there are no addition products of hydrogen peroxide to other components and also not hydrogen peroxide itself. Moreover, the choice of peroxo compounds is subject to no restrictions. Preferred peroxo compounds are peroxydisulfate salts, persulfate salts, peroxydiphosphate salts (especially ammonium peroxydisulfate, potassium peroxodisulfate, sodium peroxodisulfate, ammonium persulfate, potassium persulfate, sodium persulfate, potassium peroxydiphosphate) and peroxides (such as barium peroxide and magnesium peroxide). Among these peroxo compounds which can also be used in combination, according to the invention, the peroxydisulfates, in particular ammonium peroxydisulfate, are preferred.

The bleach boosters are contained in the cosmetic agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 5 to 30% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 8 to 20% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the ready-to-use agent.

In addition, the compositions according to the invention may contain further ingredients. For example, use of certain metal ions or complexes may be preferred to obtain intense colorations. Agents according to the invention which additionally contain Cu, Fe, Mn, Ru ions or complexes of these ions are preferred here.

Preferred hair dyeing and brightening agents according to the invention contain from 0.0001 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition, of at least one compound from the group consisting of copper chloride (CuCl ₂ ), copper sulfate ( CuSO ₄ ), iron (II) sulfate, manganese (II) sulfate, manganese (II) chloride, cobalt (II) chloride, cerium sulfate, cerium chloride, vanadium sulfate, potassium iodide, sodium iodide, lithium chloride, potassium dichromate, magnesium acetate, calcium chloride, calcium nitrate, barium nitrate, Manganese dioxide (MnO ₂ ) and / or hydroquinone. As a further constituent, the compositions according to the invention may contain at least one ammonium compound from the group of ammonium chloride, ammonium carbonate, ammonium bicarbonate, ammonium sulfate and / or ammonium carbamate in an amount of from 0.5 to 10, preferably from 1 to 5,% by weight, based on the total composition of the composition ,

Oxidative dyeing of the fibers can in principle be carried out with atmospheric oxygen in the presence of oxidation dye precursors. Preferably, however, a chemical oxidizing agent is used, especially if, in addition to the coloring, a lightening effect on human hair is desired. This lightening effect may be desired regardless of the staining method. The presence of oxidation dye precursors is therefore not a mandatory requirement for the use of oxidizing agents in the agents according to the invention. Suitable oxidizing agents are persulfates, chlorites and in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products of urea, melamine and sodium borate.

However, according to the invention, the oxidation colorant can also be applied to the hair together with a catalyst which promotes the oxidation of the dye precursors, e.g. by atmospheric oxygen, activated. Such catalysts are e.g. Metal ions, iodides, quinones or certain enzymes.

Suitable metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ⁴⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt or in the form of a complex compound. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates.

By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

• – Pyranose-Oxidase und z.B. D-Glucose oder Galactose,
• – Glucose-Oxidase und D-Glucose,
• – Glycerin-Oxidase und Glycerin,
• – Pyruvat-Oxidase und Benztraubensäure oder deren Salze,
• – Alkohol-Oxidase und Alkohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• – Lactat-Oxidase und Milchsäure und deren Salze,
• – Tyrosinase-Oxidase und Tyrosin,
• – Uricase und Harnsäure oder deren Salze,
• – Cholinoxidase und Cholin,
• – Aminosäure-Oxidase und Aminosäuren.

Suitable enzymes include peroxidases, which can significantly enhance the effect of small amounts of hydrogen peroxide. Furthermore, such enzymes are suitable according to the invention which directly oxidize the oxidation dye precursors with the aid of atmospheric oxygen, such as, for example, the laccases, or generate small amounts of hydrogen peroxide in situ and thus biocatalytically activate the oxidation of the dye precursors. Particularly suitable catalysts for the oxidation of the dye precursors are the so-called 2-electron oxidoreductases in combination with the specific substrates, eg

• Pyranose oxidase and eg D-glucose or galactose,
• Glucose oxidase and D-glucose,
• - glycerol oxidase and glycerin,
• Pyruvate oxidase and pyruvic acid or its salts,
• Alcohol oxidase and alcohol (MeOH, EtOH),
• Lactate oxidase and lactic acid and their salts,
• Tyrosinase oxidase and tyrosine,
• Uricase and uric acid or their salts,
• - choline oxidase and choline,
• - amino acid oxidase and amino acids.

• – "Wellmittel" für die wässrige Zubereitung der keratinreduzierenden Substanz,
• – "Zwischenspülung" für die erste Spülung und
• – "Fixiermittel" für die wässrige Zubereitung des Oxidationsmittels.

Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are permanently shape-changing agents. These agents usually consist of two or three preparations, which are successively applied to the fibers. The following terms are used below:

• "Corrugating agent" for the aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance,
• - "intermediate rinse" for the first rinse and
• - "Fixer" for the aqueous preparation of the oxidizing agent.

Although the polymer (A) can in principle be used in any of the said preparations, it has proved to be particularly preferred according to the invention if it is contained in the corrugating agent.

The corrugating agents according to the invention necessarily contain at least one keratin-reducing substance as a shape-changing component, preferably mercaptans. Such compounds are, for example, thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and its salts and esters, cysteamine, cysteine, Bunte salts and salts of sulfurous acid. Preferably suitable as shape-changing components are the alkali metal or ammonium salts of thioglycolic acid and / or thiolactic acid and the free acids. These are preferably used in the waving agents in concentrations of from 0.5 to 1.0 mol / kg at a pH of from 5 to 12, in particular from 7 to 9.5. To adjust this pH, the corrugating agents according to the invention usually contain alkalizing agents such as ammonia, alkali metal and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines such as monoethanolamine.

Furthermore, the corrugated lotions according to the invention may contain components which enhance the power, preferably selected from heterocyclic compounds such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine, piperazine and derivatives of these compounds, in particular 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1 , 2-Dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2-ethylpiperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2 Hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine, biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole, with imidazole being particularly preferred; Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine, lysine, Oligopeptides from an average of 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, especially> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, and their salts, preferably arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides; Diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol, wherein 1,3-diols, in particular 2 Ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol are particularly preferred. The wellenverstärverstärkenden compounds may be present in the corrugated lotions according to the invention in amounts of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total wave lotion. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of the diols of 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these amounts are particularly preferred.

Mandatory component of the fixing agents according to the invention are oxidizing agents, for. For example, sodium bromate, potassium bromate, hydrogen peroxide, and the usual stabilizers for stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide stabilizers. Aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations which can be used according to the invention contain about 0.5 to 15% by weight, usually about 0.5 to 3% by weight, of hydrogen peroxide, ready for use. The pH of such aqueous H ₂ O ₂ preparations is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4, and is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid. Bromate-based fixatives are usually used in concentrations of from 1 to 10% by weight and the pH of the solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Also suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives (eg peroxidases) which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

The corrugating agents or fixing agents according to the invention are usually formulated in a single phase, including by this term are systems which have a continuous phase, such as pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions. It has been found that two-phase and multi-phase systems according to the invention are also preferred. These are systems where there are at least two separate, continuous phases.

Furthermore, it has proven to be advantageous if the oxidizing agent preparations of oxidation colorants, brightening agents and / or fixing agents of shape-changing agents contain at least one stabilizer or complexing agent. Common and preferred chelating agents in the context of the present invention are, for example, polycarboxylic acids, nitrogen-containing mono- or polycarboxylic acids, especially ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), ethylenediamine disuccinic acid (EDDS) and nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), geminal diphosphonic acids, in particular 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (HEDP ), Aminophosphonic acids such as ethylenediaminetetra (methylenephosphonic acid) (EDTMP), diethylenetriaminepenta- (methylenephosphonic acid) (DTPMP), phosphonopolycarboxylic acids such as 2-phosphonobutane-1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid and cyclodextrins, alkali stannates (sodium stannate), alkali pyrophosphates (tetrasodium pyrophosphate, disodium pyrophosphate), alkali metal phosphates (Sodium phosphate), and phosphoric acid. According to the invention, the agents preferably contain complexing agents of from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The compositions of the invention contain other auxiliaries and additives.

It has been found that the addition of a water-soluble, organic solvent in the composition according to the invention further reduces hair damage.

A preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore provided in that the agent further contains at least one water-soluble, organic solvent. The organic solvents are liquid at room temperature under normal pressure. By water-soluble herein is meant the miscibility in any ratio under normal conditions. Preferred organic solvents are C ₁ -C ₆ -alcohols which optionally carry further functional groups for improving the water solubility, such as, for example, 4-methoxybutanol, ethyldiglycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, n-propanol, n-butanol, n-butylene glycol, Glycerol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, and diethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether. Preferred water-soluble organic solvents contain at least two hydroxyl groups. These are preferably selected from the group formed from 1,2-ethanediol, 1,2-propanediol (1,2-propylene glycol), 1,3-propanediol, 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1 , 4-butanediol, 2,3-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 2- (2-hydroxyethoxy) ethanol and glycerol. Glycerol and butylene glycol (1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol and 2,3-butanediol) are particularly preferred.

The agent according to the invention preferably contains water-soluble, organic solvents at from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Amaranthsamenöl, Aprikosenkernöl, Arganöl, Avocadoöl, Babassuöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Borretschsamenöl, Camelinaöl, Distelöl, Erdnußöl, Granatapfelkernöl, Grapefruitsamenöl, Hanföl, Haselnussöl, Holundersamenöl, Johannesbeersamenöl, Jojobaöl, Kakaobutter, Leinöl, Macadamianussöl, Maiskeimöl, Mandelöl, Marulaöl, Moringaöl, Nachtkerzenöl, Olivenöl, Orangenöl, Palmöl, Pfirsichkernöl, Rapsöl, Reisöl, Sanddornfruchtfleischöl, Sanddornkernöl, Sesamöl, Sheabutter, Sojaöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Traubenkernöl, Walnußöl, Weizenkeimöl, Wildrosenöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Ölkörper c) um ein natürliches Öl handelt. Der Gewichtsanteil des natürlichen Öls am Gesamtgewicht bevorzugter kosmetischer Mittel beträgt 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 8,0 Gew.% und insbesondere 0,4 bis 5,0 Gew.-%.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – Fettalkohole. Zur Gruppe der bevorzugten Fettalkohole zählen die C₈ bis C₂₂ Fettalkohole, vorzugsweise die C₁₀ bis C₂₀ Fettalkohole und insbesondere die C₁₂ bis C₁₈ Fettalkohole. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße kosmetische Mittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass es sich bei dem Ölkörper c) um einen Fettalkohol handelt. Der Gewichtsanteil des Fettalkohols am Gesamtgewicht bevorzugter kosmetischer Mittel beträgt 0,1 bis 10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,2 bis 8,0 Gew.% und insbesondere 0,4 bis 5,0 Gew.-%.
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, worunter Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische zu verstehen sind. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  

in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt. Preferred agents according to the invention contain as an additional constituent an oil body. The preferred oil bodies c) include in particular:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, thistle oil, peanut oil, pomegranate seed oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp oil, hazelnut oil, elderflower seed oil, currant seed oil, jojoba oil, cocoa butter, linseed oil, macadamia nut oil, corn oil, almond oil, marula oil , Moringa oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, orange oil, palm oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, rice oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn seed oil, sesame oil, shea butter, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wheat germ oil, rosehip oil and the liquid components of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oil body c) is a natural oil. The proportion by weight of the natural oil in the total weight of preferred cosmetic agents is from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5.0% by weight.
• Liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, Di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl-n-n-octyl n-octyl ether. Undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - fatty alcohols. The group of preferred fatty alcohols includes the C ₈ to C ₂₂ fatty alcohols, preferably the C ₁₀ to C ₂₀ fatty alcohols and in particular the C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ fatty alcohols. Preferred cosmetic agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oil body c) is a fatty alcohol. The proportion by weight of the fatty alcohol in the total weight of preferred cosmetic agents is from 0.1 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.2 to 8.0% by weight and in particular from 0.4 to 5.0% by weight.
• Symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in US Pat DE-OS 197 56 454 , Glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, which are understood to mean monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  

in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The proportion by weight of the oil body in the total weight according to the invention preferred cosmetic agent is 30 to 90 wt .-%, preferably 35 to 88 wt.% And in particular 40 to 85 wt .-%.

It has also been found that the skin irritation caused by hair dyeing and / or hair waving agents can additionally be unexpectedly significantly reduced by the addition of certain care substances.

In this case, the cell protection substance ectoine ((4S) -1,4,5,6-tetrahydro-2-methylpyrimidines-4-carboxylic acid, INCI name: ectoine) has proven to be particularly advantageous according to the invention. A further preferred embodiment of the present invention is therefore given by the fact that the agent additionally contains ectoine. The agent according to the invention preferably contains ectoine at from 0.0001 to 3.0% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 1.0% by weight, in each case based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair treatment compositions contain, based on their weight, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, further from 0.01 to 2% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 1% by weight .-% D-panthenol.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair treatment compositions contain, based on their weight, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1 wt % Glycine, serine and / or arginine.

The extracts of green tea, chamomile, almond and Moringa are very particularly preferred according to the invention because of their hair-strengthening action and their supportive effect with regard to hair fullness. Particularly preferred according to the invention a Moringa extract, for example, a product sold under the trade name Puricare ^® LS 9658 or Moringa Oleifera ^® product.

In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, the hair-cleansing and / or conditioning agents-based on their weight-in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention further 0.01 to 2 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 1.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight of Moringa extract.

Agents preferred according to the invention contain a sebum-sorbing active ingredient, preferably selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 .mu.m, preferably 0.5-50 .mu.m, more preferably 5-30 .mu.m and most preferably 10-25 .mu.m. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, in particular polyethylene powders and polypropylene powders, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethylmethacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones, wherein the polymer powders can be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain as care active ingredient at least one extract from the root of Boerhavia diffusa. Due to the protective effect when using the composition according to the invention, the skin compatibility can be significantly improved thereby. Extracts from the root of Boerhavia diffusa are made WO2009 / 044040 (A1) known for dermal application, but there is no reference to cosmetic agents for color and / or shape change.

It has been shown that the extracts of the root of Boerhavia diffusa are suitable in the skin, especially the scalp, the nuclear translocation and activation of the transcription factor NF-κB (nuclear factor κB / (kappa) B) as well as the production of inflammation-enhancing prostaglandins, in particular PGE2, in the keratinocytes and thus to improve overall the skin compatibility of agents according to the invention. In addition, Boerhavia diffusa root extract enhances the formation of the hormone α-MSH (alpha melanocyte-stimulating hormone), which plays a crucial role in the regulation and reduction of inflammatory sensations, particularly itching. As a result, the overall tolerance threshold of the skin to respond to irritating substances with irritation and inflammation is lowered. Thus, both inflammatory potential and pain sensation of the scalp are reduced. In addition, attacked, sensitive skin can calm down and thus better tolerate potentially allergenic substances. Overall, the leads Use of extracts of the root of Boerhavia diffusa in agents for color and / or shape modification of human hair to improve the skin compatibility and to reduce irritation on the scalp.

The extract from the root of Boerhavia diffusa is rich in various polyphenols and hydroxybenzoic acids, which are responsible for the efficacy of the plant extract. These extracts can be made by picking up the ground, pulverized roots of Boerhavia diffusa with a mixture of water and alcohol, preferably butylene glycol. The water-alcohol mixture preferably has a mixing ratio of 3: 1 to 1: 3 parts by volume, more preferably 1: 1. The insoluble portion is separated and the soluble portion inactivated by thermal action, then filtered and then sterilized. The main active ingredients of the extract are the polyphenols they contain. Preferred extracts contain about 0.05 to 5 g / L of polyphenols, in particular 0.20 to 0.55 g / L. The polyphenols are predominantly composed of hydroxybenzoic acids (about 50 to 70% by weight of all the polyphenols present) and of flavonoids (24 to 33% by weight) and subordinate to hydroxycinnamic acids (1 to 5% by weight).

A according to the invention particularly suitable extract from the roots of Boerhavia diffusa is the commercial product Mediacalm ^®, which is marketed by the company Silab and which is referred to with INCI Aqua, Butylene glycol and Boerhavia diffusa root extract.

In one embodiment, agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain the extract of roots of Boerhavia diffusa in an amount of 0.00001 to 10.0% by weight, in particular from 0.0001 to 8.0% by weight, in each case on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent. A particularly preferred agent according to the invention is characterized in that it contains the extract of roots of Boerhavia diffusa in an amount of 0.0001 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.001 to 1.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of ready to use agent.

These care substances can be used individually, but preferably in combinations with one another in the composition according to the invention. A further embodiment of the present invention is therefore characterized in that the agent contains as additional hair-care substance at least one care substance selected from the group formed from D-panthenol, glycine, serine, arginine, Moringa oleifera and / or ectoin.

Preferably, the ready-to-use agents are flowable preparations. The flowable preparations preferably additionally comprise as surfactant an emulsifier or a surfactant, surface-active substances being referred to as surfactants or as emulsifiers, depending on the field of application, and anionic, cationic, amphoteric, zwitterionic and other nonionic Surfactants and emulsifiers are selected. These substances will be described in detail below.

Suitable anionic surfactants in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body.

Preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, each having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, and polyalkoxylated ether carboxylic acids having from 10 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which carry at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

In a further preferred embodiment of the present invention, the agent further contains at least one amphoteric surfactant. Particularly preferred amphoteric surfactants are sold under the INCI name Disodium Cocoamphodipropionate with the trade names Miranol C2M SF conc. (Rhodia), Amphoterge K-2 (Lonza) and Monateric CEM-38 (Unichema) and designation Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate with the trade names Dehyton (Cognis), Miranol C2M (Rhodia) and Ampholak XCO 30 (Akzo Nobel).

The addition in the composition according to the invention produces an excellent finish, in particular improved wet combability.

By adding surface-active compounds, the effectiveness of the agents according to the invention can be further improved. In particular, further surface-active compounds of the nonionic surfactant type have been found to be particularly advantageous. Such compounds are, for example, adducts of polyethylene oxide with fatty alcohols, wherein addition products of polyethylene oxide to fatty alcohols are particularly preferred which have an average degree of ethoxylation of 10 to 45, in particular from 12 to 30, such as steareth-20, coceth-15, oleth-20 or also ceteareth-30 and alkyl polyglycosides corresponding to the general formula RO- (Z) _x , where R is alkyl, Z is sugar and x is the number of sugar units. Agents preferred according to the invention contain as nonionic surfactant the adduct of coconut fatty alcohol with (poly) glucose, which is known by the INCI name Coco-Glucoside.

The anionic, zwitterionic, amphoteric and other nonionic surfactants are preferably present in a total amount of from 0.1 to 45% by weight, preferably from 1 to 30% by weight and very particularly preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, based on the total amount of ready-to-use agent.

Also preferred according to the invention are cationic surfactants of the quaternary ammonium compound type, the esterquats and the amidoamines. The cationic surfactants are contained in the compositions according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It has proved to be advantageous according to the invention when agents contain at least one thickener. With regard to these thickeners, there are no fundamental restrictions. Both organic and purely inorganic thickening agents can be used.

Preferably, the thickener is an anionic, synthetic polymer. Preferred anionic polymers are acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid polymers or copolymers which are preferably used in the compositions according to the invention in an amount of from 0.1 to 10% by weight, particularly preferably from 1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the agent, are included. Further preferably, the thickener is a cationic synthetic polymer. Preferred cationic groups are quaternary ammonium groups. In particular, those polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group is bonded via a C ₁ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon group to a polymer main chain constructed from acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or derivatives thereof have proven to be particularly suitable. Such polymers can also be used as copolymers with nonionic monomer units, preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl ester and methacrylic acid-C ₁ -C ₄ -alkyl ester. Nonionic, fully synthetic polymers, such as polyvinyl alcohol or polyvinylpyrrolidinone, are also useful as thickeners of the invention. Preference is furthermore given to using naturally occurring, optionally modified thickening agents. These include, for example, guar gums, scleroglucangums or xanthan gums, vegetable gums such as gum arabic, ghatti gum, karaya gum, gum tragacanth, carrageenan gum, agar agar, locust bean gum, pectins, alginates, starch, starch fractions and derivatives such as Amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, cellulose derivatives such as methylcellulose, carboxyalkylcelluloses and hydroxyalkylcelluloses. As inorganic thickeners, phyllosilicates (polymeric, crystalline sodium disilicates) have proven to be particularly suitable in the context of the present invention. In particular clays, in particular magnesium aluminum silicates, such as, for example, bentonite, especially smectites, such as montmorillonite or hectorite, which may optionally also be suitably modified, and synthetic sheet silicates are preferred.

Preferred agents according to the invention contain UV photoprotective filter substances. Under UV light protection filters are organic substances that are able to absorb ultra-violet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. The agent according to the invention preferably contains UV filter substances from the following substance classes: 3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, eg. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isoamyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamate (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives such as 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone; Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) - propan-1,3-dione; 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof

Preferred agents of the invention contain paraben-based preservatives. Parabens are known in the art as preservatives for food as well as for cosmetic products. In the context of the present application, paraben-based preservatives are the branched and unbranched C ₁ -C ₁₀ -alkyl esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and their physiologically tolerated salts, the so-called 4-hydroxybenzoates. Especially preferred are the inventive preservative agents selected from methyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (methyl paraben), ethyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (ethyl paraben), propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (propyl paraben), 2-propyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (Isopropyl paraben), butyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (butyl paraben), 2-butyl-4-hydroxybenzoate (isobutyl paraben) and n-heptyl 4-hydroxybenzoate (heptyl paraben) and the sodium and / or potassium salts of methyl-4 hydroxybenzoate.

• (i) Polyalkylsiloxanen (wie Dimethicone), Polyarylsiloxanen, Polyalkylarylsiloxanen, die jeweils flüchtig oder nicht flüchtig, geradkettig, verzweigt oder cyclisch (INCI-Bezeichnung Cyclomethicone), vernetzt oder nicht vernetzt sind;
• (ii) Polysiloxanen, die in ihrer allgemeinen Struktur eine oder mehrere organofunktionelle Gruppen enthalten, die ausgewählt sind unter: substituierten oder unsubstituierten aminierten Gruppen (INCI-Bezeichnung: Amodimethicone u/o Trimethylsilylamodimethicone); (per)fluorierten Gruppen; Thiolgruppen; Carboxylatgruppen; hydroxylierten Gruppen (insb. Dimethiconcopolyole); alkoxylierten Gruppen; Acyloxyalkylgruppen; amphoteren Gruppen; Bisulfitgruppen; Hydroxyacylaminogruppen; Carboxygruppen; Sulfonsäuregruppen; und Sulfat- oder Thiosulfatgruppen;
• (iii) linearen Polysiloxan(A)-Polyoxyalkylen(B)-Blockcopoylmeren vom Typ (A-B)_n mit n > 3;
• (iv) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit nicht silikonhaltigem, organischen Grundgerüst, die aus einer organischen Hauptkette bestehen, welche aus organischen Monomeren gebildet wird, die kein Silikon enthalten, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem Kettenende mindestens ein Polysiloxanmakromer gepfropft wurde;
• (v) gepfropften Silikonpolymeren mit Polysiloxan-Grundgerüst, auf das nicht silikonhaltige, organische Monomere gepfropft wurden, die eine Polysiloxan-Hauptkette aufweisen, auf die in der Kette sowie gegebenenfalls an mindestens einem ihrer Enden mindestens ein organisches Makromer gepfropft wurde, das kein Silikon enthält, wie beispielsweise das unter der INCI-Bezeichnung Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone vertriebene Handelsprodukt Abil B 8832 der Firma Degussa;
• (vi) oder deren Gemischen.

Finally, it may prove advantageous if the agent according to the invention contains silicones. For the purposes of the present application, silicones are to be understood as meaning volatile and nonvolatile silicones. In particular, preferred agents of the invention contain silicones selected from

• (i) polyalkylsiloxanes (such as dimethicones), polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, each of which is volatile or nonvolatile, straight-chain, branched or cyclic (INCI name cyclomethicone), crosslinked or uncrosslinked;
• (ii) polysiloxanes containing in their general structure one or more organofunctional groups selected from: substituted or unsubstituted aminated groups (INCI name: amodimethicone and / or trimethylsilylamodimethicone); (per) fluorinated groups; thiol; carboxylate groups; hydroxylated groups (especially dimethicone copolyols); alkoxylated groups; acyloxyalkyl; amphoteric groups; bisulphite; hydroxyacylamino groups; carboxy; sulfonic acid groups; and sulfate or thiosulfate groups;
• (iii) linear polysiloxane (A) polyoxyalkylene (B) block copolymers of the (AB) _{n type} with n>3;
• (iv) grafted silicone polymers having a non-silicone-containing organic backbone consisting of an organic backbone formed from organic monomers containing no silicone to which at least one polysiloxane macromer has been grafted in the chain and optionally at least one chain end;
• (v) grafted polysiloxane backbone silicone polymers having grafted thereto non-silicone-containing organic monomers having a polysiloxane backbone to which at least one organic macromer containing no silicone has been grafted in the chain, and optionally at least at one of its ends , such as the commercial product Abil B 8832 from Degussa marketed under the INCI name Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicone;
• (vi) or mixtures thereof.

Such silicones are known, for example, under the trade names: Dow Corning 929 emulsion (hydroxylamino-modified silicone, amodimethicone), DC 2-2078 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI name: Aminopropyl Phenyl Trimethicone), DC 5-7113 (manufacturer Dow Corning, INCI). Designation: Silicone Quaternium 16), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker), Abil-Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, Quaternium-80), Q2-7224 (Manufacturer: Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), DC 8500 (bis (C13-15 alkoxy) PG amodimethicone, Dow Corning), Silcare Silicone SEA (trideceth-9 PG-amodimethicone, Clariant), SILWET (Union Carbide Corporation), Dow Corning 190 (dimethicone polyol) and Dow Corning 193.

In addition, the agents according to the invention may contain further active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives, for example nonionic polymers, cationic polymers, zwitterionic and amphoteric polymers, anionic polymers, structurants such as glucose, maleic acid and lactic acid, hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, fiber-structure-improving active ingredients, in particular mono- , Di- and oligosaccharides such as glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose, defoamers such as silicones, preferably dimethicone, dyes for staining the agent, anti-dandruff agents, drugs such as amino acids, oligopeptides and protein hydrolysates, polyphenols and (pseudo) ceramides, panthenol, pantothenic acid , Pantolactone, allantoin, Pyrrolidinoncarbonsäuren and their salts and bisabolol, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors, especially those of groups A, B ₃ , B ₅ , B ₆ , C, E, F and H, plant extracts, fats and Waxes such as beeswax, montan wax and paraffins, swelling and penetrating agents such as glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates, opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers, pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono and distearate and PEG-3-distearate, pigments, propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air and antioxidants.

The choice of these other substances will be made by those skilled in the art according to the desired properties of the agents. With regard to further optional components and the amounts of these components used, reference is expressly made to the relevant manuals known to the person skilled in the art, eg. B. Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publisher, Heidelberg, 1989, referenced.

According to preferred means for changing the color and shape of the hair are characterized in that they have a pH as neutral as possible. Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is that the ready-to-use agent has a pH between 4.0 and 12.0, preferably between 5.0 and 11.5, particularly preferably between 6.0 and 11.0. For the purposes of the present invention, the pH values are pH values which were measured at a temperature of 22 ° C. Usually, the pH is adjusted with pH adjusters. In order to adjust the pH, those skilled in the art are familiar with common acidifying and alkalizing agents. The alkalizing agents which can be used for adjusting the pH are typically selected from inorganic salts, in particular the alkali metals and alkaline earth metals, organic alkalizing agents, in particular amines, basic amino acids and alkanolamines, and ammonia. Acidifying agents which are preferred according to the invention are pleasure acids, such as, for example, citric acid, acetic acid, malic acid or tartaric acid, and also dilute mineral acids. Alkaliating agents which are preferred according to the invention are selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, sodium phosphate, potassium phosphate, sodium silicate, potassium silicate, sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, 2-aminoethane-1-ol (monoethanolamine), triethanolamine, ammonia, Aminopropan-2-ol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.

Some preferred frame formulations can be found in the following table (in% by weight). formula 1 Formula 2 Formula 3 Formula 4 Formula 5 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 6 Formula 7 Formula 8 Formula 9 Formula 10 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Kupplerkomponente From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 11 Formula 12 Formula 13 Formula 14 Formula 15 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 16 Formula 17 Formula 18 Formula 19 Formula 20 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Kupplerkomponente From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 21 Formula 22 Formula 23 Formula 24 Formula 25 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 26 Formula 27 Formula 28 Formula 29 Formula 30 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Kupplerkomponente From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 31 Formula 32 Formula 33 Formula 34 Formula 35 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 36 Formula 37 Formula 38 Formula 39 Formula 40 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Kupplerkomponente From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 41 Formula 42 Formula 43 Formula 44 Formula 45 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Natural oil 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0 0.4 to 5.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 46 Formula 47 Formula 48 Formula 49 Formula 50 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 developer component From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Kupplerkomponente From 0.01 to 20 0.05 to 15 0.1 to 10 0.5 to 5 0.5 to 3 Natural oil 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0 0.4 to 5.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 51 Formula 52 Formula 53 Formula 54 Formula 55 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 56 Formula 57 Formula 58 Formula 59 Formula 60 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 Anionic surfactant 0.1 to 45 0.1 to 45 1 to 30 1 to 20 1 to 20 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 61 Formula 62 Formula 63 Formula 64 Formula 65 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 66 Formula 67 Formula 68 Formula 69 Formula 70 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 fatty alcohol 0.1 to 20 0.2 to 15 0.5 to 12 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 71 Formula 72 Formula 73 Formula 74 Formula 75 Poly (1-alkene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 Natural oil 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0 0.4 to 5.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 Formula 76 Formula 77 Formula 78 Formula 79 Formula 80 Poly (1-decene) From 0.01 to 10 0.1 to 7.5 0.25 to 5 0.5 to 2.5 0.5 to 1.25 hydrogen peroxide 1.0 to 10 2.0 to 8.0 2.5 to 6.0 3.0 to 5.5 3.5 to 5.0 Natural oil 0.1 to 10 0.2 to 8.0 0.2 to 8.0 0.4 to 5.0 0.4 to 5.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100 add 100

The finishing of the color and shape-changing agents according to the invention is subject in principle to no restrictions. Usually, the agents according to the invention are formulated as 1-component agents which, if appropriate, are mixed immediately before use with a second preparation containing, for example, an oxidizing agent. However, it has also proven to be preferred in some cases when the product is formulated as a 2-component agent. Within the scope of a preferred embodiment, the means according to the invention are therefore made up in such a way that one of the components essential to the invention is packaged separately. According to the invention, it does not initially matter which of the components according to the invention is packaged separately; however, it may be preferable to separately package the preparation containing the polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene), until use.

Agents preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the agent is prepared immediately before use by mixing at least two preparations, wherein the at least two preparations are provided in at least two separate prefabricated containers and wherein a container contains a colorant, which in a cosmetic carrier at least one Oxidation dye precursor and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene), and another container containing an oxidizer preparation containing at least one oxidizing agent. The colorant preferably has a pH of between 5.0 and 12.0, preferably between 6.0 and 11.0.

Another object of the present invention is a method for color and / or shape change keratinischer fibers, in which an inventive composition according to the above specifications is applied to the hair, preferably for a contact time of 2 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 45 minutes the hair is left, and then the hair is rinsed out.

A preferred embodiment of the process according to the invention for changing the color of keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one oxidation dye precursor and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene) with an oxidant preparation containing hydrogen peroxide, to a homogeneous composition mixed, this is applied to the hair, is left on the hair for an exposure time of 2 to 60 minutes, preferably from 5 to 45 minutes, and then the hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures in the color change of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C. After a period of exposure, the hair dye is removed by rinsing the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

A further preferred embodiment of the method according to the invention for permanently modifying keratinous fibers is when a composition in a cosmetic carrier containing at least one keratin-reducing substance and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene) is applied to the hair Leave a period of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably 10 to 30 minutes left on the hair, and then optionally the hair is rinsed. Subsequently, a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, preferably hydrogen peroxide, and preferably additionally at least one stabilizer or complexing agent, applied to the hair, left on the hair for a contact time of 2 to 45 minutes, preferably from 10 to 30 minutes, and then the Hair is rinsed out. The application temperatures in the case of the permanent change in shape of keratinic fibers according to the invention can be in a range between 15 and 45 ° C. After an exposure time, the fixative is removed by rinsing off the hair. The washing with a shampoo can be omitted if a strong surfactant-containing carrier was used.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the method according to the invention, mutatis mutandis the statements made concerning the agents according to the invention apply.

As already mentioned, the compositions according to the invention can also be prepared directly before use from two or more separately packaged preparations. This is particularly useful for the separation of incompatible ingredients to avoid premature reaction. The ready-to-use agent in such systems is manufactured by the user or consumer just prior to use by mixing the components. A dyeing and / or whitening agent in which the oxidation dye precursors are initially separate from the oxidizing agent preparation, preferably containing hydrogen peroxide, is preferred.

A further subject of the present invention is therefore a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separate containers, one container containing at least one color and / or shape-changing compound and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-). Decene) and a container containing an oxidizer composition containing at least one chemical oxidizer, especially hydrogen peroxide.

A preferred embodiment of this subject matter of the present invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) comprising at least two separate containers, one container comprising a coloring mixture in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one coloring component, in particular at least one oxidation dye precursor, polymer ( A), preferably hydrogenated poly (1-decene), and a container containing an oxidizing agent composition containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, in particular hydrogen peroxide.

If a particularly strong whitening action is desired by using persulfate salts or peroxodisulfate salts, it is preferred according to the invention to add these to the inventive multicomponent packaging unit (kit-of-parts) in the form of an optionally dusted powder or a shaped article pressed in the form of a separately packaged additional component.

A further preferred embodiment of the subject of the invention is a multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) containing at least two separate containers, one container comprising a shape-change mixture in a cosmetic carrier comprising at least one shape-modifying component and polymer (A), preferably hydrogenated poly ( 1-decene), and a container containing an oxidizer composition containing at least one chemical oxidizer, especially hydrogen peroxide.

The multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts) preferably additionally contains an instruction manual. In addition, it may be preferred if, further, a mixing aid, such as a shell, an application aid, such as a comb or a brush, and / or personal protective equipment, such as disposable gloves attached to the kit. With regard to further preferred embodiments of the multi-component packaging unit (kit-of-parts), what has been said about the agents according to the invention applies mutatis mutandis.

Another object of the invention is finally the use of a composition according to the invention for reducing the damage to the hair structure in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair.

Claimed in particular is the use of agents according to the invention for improving the combability, in particular the wet combability of keratinic fibers, preferably bleached keratinic fibers.

Also claimed is the use of agents according to the invention for improving the luster, in particular the luster of bleached keratinic fibers.

With regard to further preferred embodiments of the uses according to the invention, mutatis mutandis, the statements made with regard to the agents according to the invention apply.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without limiting it thereto. Examples 1) Dyeing creams raw material E1 E2 E3 E4 E5 E6 E7 E8 Lanette D. 6.60 6.60 6.60 6.60 6.60 5.50 - - Lorol techn. 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.43 2.00 - - Ammonium carbomer, 1% - - - - - - 12,00 12,00 Lanette E, powder - - - - - - 0.56 0.56 Texapon NSF, 27% - - - - - - 3.52 3.52 Potassium oleate, 12.5% - - - - - - 2.40 2.40 Cutina GMS SE - - - - - - 1.60 1.60 Cutina AGS - - - - - - 1.60 1.60 Eutanol G - - - - - - 1.60 1.60 Hydrenol D - - - - - - 9.60 9.60 Phospholipid EFA - - - - - - 0.10 0.10 Eumulgin B 2 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.50 2.40 2.40 Eumulgin B 1 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.60 0.50 - - Lamesoft PO 65 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 - - Akypo Soft 45HP 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 - - Texapon K 14 S Special, 70% 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 2.80 1.38 1.38 Product W 37194 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 3.75 - - p-Toluylenediamine 0,300 0.822 0,029 - 1,533 1,161 - - resorcinol 0,350 0.416 0.011 - 0.410 0,298 0.53 0.53 2-methyl 0.246 - - 0,004 0,343 0,128 - - 5-amino-2-methylphenol - 0.023 0.001 - - - - - 2-amino-4-hydroxyethyl-aminoanisolsulfat - - - - - - 0.02 0.02 4-amino-3-methylphenol 0,460 0.019 - - - - - - 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol - 0.047 - - - - - - Bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane 2HCl - 0.539 - 0,010 - - - - 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol 2HCl - - 0,002 - - - - - 3-aminophenol - - 0,002 - - 0.058 0.16 0.16 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene - - - 0.104 - - - - 2,4,5,6-Tetraaminopyrimidinsulfat - - - 0.146 - - - - 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine - - - - 0.046 0.078 - - Aerosil 200 - - - - - - 0.25 0.25 Ammonium sulfate, techn. purely 0.82 0.51 1.00 0.92 - 0.50 - - Sodium sulfite, anhydrous, 96% 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.40 0.20 0.20 HEDP, 60% 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 - 0.20 - - Na4-EDTA, powder, 87% - - - - - - 0.20 0.20 Sodium hydroxide, 45% 1.00 1.12 0.10 0.30 1.70 - - - Potassium hydroxide, 50% - - - - - 0.90 0.85 0.85 ascorbic acid - - - - - 0.05 0.05 0.05 Sodium silicate 40/42 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 - - Hydro Vance - - - - - - 2.00 2.00 L-serine 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 - 0.50 0.50 hydrogenated poly (1-decene) 0.40 0.55 0.65 0.75 2.00 1.10 2.50 0.75 Ronacare Ectoin - 0.50 1.00 - 0.50 1.00 - 0.50 Ammonia, 25% 7.00 6.50 7.00 7.00 6.50 7.50 6.00 6.00 Perfume qs qs qs qs qs qs qs qs Water, desalted add 100 Lanette D. C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis) Lorol tech. C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: Coconut alcohol) (Cognis) Eumulgin B2 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (20 EO) (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (Cognis) Eumulgin B1 C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, ethoxylated (12 EO) (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis) Lamesoft PO 65 C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkyl polyglucoside, glyceryl monooleate (about 66%, INCI name: Coco-Glucoside, Glyceryl Oleate, Aqua) (Cognis) Akypo Soft 45HP C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl ethers, ethoxylated (6 EO) carboxylic acid, sodium salt (about 21%, INCI name: sodium laureth-6 carboxylates, aqua) (KAO) Texapon K14 S Special C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl ether sulfate, ethoxylated (3 EO), sodium salt (about 70%, INCI name: Sodium Myreth Sulfate, Aqua) (Cognis) Product W 37194 Copolymer of acrylic acid, sodium salt and trimethylammoniopropylacrylamide chloride (about 20%, INCI name: Acrylamidopropyltrimonium Chloride / Acrylates Copolymer, Aqua) (Stockhausen) Sodium silicate 40/42 Natronwasserglas Ronacare Ectoin (4S) -1,4,5,6-Tetrahydro-2-methyl-pyrimidine-4-carboxylic acid (INCI name: Ectoin) (Rona) Lanette E, powder C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol sulfate, sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Cetearyl Sulfate) (Cognis) Texapon NSF, 27% C ₁₂ fatty alcohol sulfate, ethoxylated (2 EO) sodium salt (INCI name: Sodium Laureth Sulfate) (Cognis) Cutina GMS SE Stearic Acid Glyceryl Ester (INCI name: Glyceryl Stearate) (Cognis) Cutina AGS Ethylene glycol distearyl ester (INCI name: Glycol Distearate) (Cognis) Eutanol G 2-octyldodecanol (INCI name: octyldodecanol) (Cognis) Hydrenol D C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol) (Cognis) Phospholipid EFA zwitterionic phospholide (INCI name: Linoleamidopropyl PG-dimonium chloride phosphates) (Uniqema) Aerosil 200 Silica, pyrogenic (INCI name: Silica) (Evonik) Hydro Vance Hydroxyethyl urea (about 50%, INCI name: Hydroxyethylura, Aqua) (National Starch) raw material E9 E10 E11 E12 Cetiol V 2.30 2.30 2.30 2.30 Xanthan FN 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Lanette N 14.00 14.00 14.00 14.00 Lanette D. 3.90 3.90 3.90 3.90 Cutina GMS SE 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Cocoamidopropylbetaine, 40% 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Monoethanolamine 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 Sodium sulphite anhydrous, 96% 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 RonaCare Ectoin 1.00 1.00 - - hydrogenated poly (1-decene) 0.55 2.50 0.80 1.00 ascorbic acid 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 Ammonia, 25% 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazolsulfat 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 5-amino-2-methylphenol 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol 0.30 - 0.30 - Water, demineralized add 100 Cetiol V Oleic acid decyl ester (INCI name: Decyl Oleate) (Cognis) Xanthan FN Xanthan Gum (INCI name: Xanthan gum) (Jungbunzlauer) Lanette N C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol, sodium C ₁₆ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol sulfate (INCI name: cetearyl alcohol, sodium cetearyl sulfates) (Cognis)

The fat base was melted together at 80 ° C and dispersed with a portion of the amount of water. Subsequently, the remaining recipe ingredients were incorporated with stirring in order. It was then made up to 100% by weight with water and the formulation was stirred cold. 2) Measurability of Combination on Untreated Hair The following creams were prepared (in% by weight): raw material V1 V2 E1 Lanette D. 12 12 12 Lorol techn. 2.4 2.4 2.4 Ceteareth-20 0.9 0.9 0.9 FAEOS-Na C12-14 2EO 11 11 11 Dehyton K. 9.0 9.0 9.0 KOH 0.25 0.25 0.25 Monoethanolamine 5.0 5.0 5.0 sodium 0.2 0.2 0.2 Merquat 281 1.0 1.0 1.0 HEDP 0.12 0.12 0.12 sodium silicate 0.5 0.5 0.5 macadamia nut oil 0.2 0.2 0.2 paraffin oil - 1.0 - Pioneer PLW PAO - - 1.0 Water, Misc add 100 add 100 add 100

The creams were mixed with the developer dispersion listed in the table below in a weight ratio of 1: 1 to give application mixtures (data in% by weight). raw material Na benzoate 0.04 dipicolinic 0.10 disodiumpyrophosphate 0.10 1,2-propanediol 1.50 HEDP, 60% 0.25 Genamine STAC 0.20 Cetearyl Alcohol 3.40 Ceteareth-20 1.00 Hydrogen peroxide 50% 18.2 Potassium hydroxide, 50% 0.19 water ad 100 Dehyton K. N, N-dimethyl-N (cocoalkylamidopropyl) ammonium acetobetaine (INCI name: Co3coamidopropyl Betaine) (BASF) Merquat 281 Dimethyldiallylammonium chloride / acrylic acid copolymer (INCI name: Polyquaternium-22) (Lubrizol) Genamine STAC Trimethylstearylammonium chloride (about 80% active ingredient, INCI name: Steartrimonium Chloride) (Clariant)

Twelve strands of hair (Kerling 6/0) were washed with 3% sodium laureth sulfate. For staining, 4.0 g of the finished application mixtures were applied to the strands of approx. 1.0 g in weight. After a contact time of 25 min at 32 ° C, the strands were rinsed with water for 2 min and dried in air. The resulting tresses were subsequently combed each 10 times automatically with hard rubber combs (Hercules Sägemann) and determined the work to be done. The following results were obtained (data in mJ, in each case arithmetic mean over 12 strands): Hair treatment agents combing V1 716 V2 664 E1 585

The hair strands treated with the agents according to the invention show a significantly improved combing work.

3) Kämmbarkeitsmessung on bleached hair

The experiments described under point 2) were repeated on previously bleached hair strands. The following results were obtained (data in mJ, in each case arithmetic mean over 12 strands): Hair treatment agents combing V1 924 V2 796 E1 700

The compositions according to the invention also improve the combability of bleached hair strands.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• DE 19756454 [0106]
• WO 2009/044040 A1 [0115]

Claims (10)

Agent for changing the color and / or shape of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, containing in a cosmetic carrier at least one color and / or shape-changing component, characterized in that the agent additionally comprises a polymer (A) having at least one structural unit (A1) contains

where R1 is a C4-30 alkyl radical. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it contains as polymer (A) having at least one structural unit (A1) a hydrogenated poly (1-decene). Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that, based on its total weight, 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 7.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.25 to 5 wt. -%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2.5 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 1.25 wt .-% of the polymer (A). Composition according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the agent contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor and / or at least one substantive dye and / or at least one precursor of natural dyes and / or at least one brightening agent. Agent for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that it, based on its total weight, 0.5 to 15 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 12.5 wt .-%, especially preferably 2.5 to 10 wt .-% and in particular 3 to 7 wt .-% hydrogen peroxide (calculated as 100% H ₂ O ₂ ) contains. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that it contains as color-modifying component at least one oxidation dye precursor, wherein the weight fraction of all oxidation dye precursors between 0.001 and 20 wt .-%, preferably between 0.1 and 10 wt .-% and in particular between 0.2 and 5.0 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent is. Agent for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers according to claim 6, characterized in that it contains as oxidation dye precursor at least one developer component, wherein preferred developer components are selected from p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) amino-p-phenylenediamine, 1,3-bis - [(2-hydroxyethyl-4'-aminophenyl) amino] -propan-2-ol, hydroxyethyl-p-phenylenediamine, 1,10-bis- (2 ', 5' -diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane, 4-aminophenol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, bis (5-amino-2-hydroxyphenyl) methane, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2 -Hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4,5-diamino-1- (2-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole and their physiologically acceptable salts. Agent for dyeing and / or lightening keratinic fibers according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it contains as oxidation dye precursor at least one coupler component, preferred coupler components being selected from 1-naphthol, 1,5- and 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-methylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine and their physiologically acceptable salts. Use of an agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 for reducing the damage to the hair structure in the color and / or permanent change in shape of human hair. Process for changing the color and / or shape of keratinic fibers, in particular human hair, characterized in that an agent according to one of claims 1 to 8 is applied to the keratinic fibers.