DE102019218009A1 - Alcohol-based sprayable gel with yield point - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition for application to the hair or the skin, containing- 30-85% by weight of ethanol, -15-37% by weight of water, - at least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non- ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, the crosslinked copolymer in a total amount of 0.1-1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0 45-0.60% by weight, at least one alkalizing agent up to a pH value of the cosmetic composition in the range of 5-8, preferably in the range of 6-7, particularly preferably in the range of 6.2-6, 8, each measured at 20 ° C, - at least one substance selected from oils and fragrances, in a total amount of 0 - 10% by weight, - one or more surfactants in a total amount of 0 - 0.1% by weight , and- at least one pigment in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 1-6% by weight, exceptionally preferably 2-5% by weight, more extraordinarily preferably 3-4% by weight, all amounts being based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition, the application preferably being carried out by spraying, particularly preferably by spraying with a pump sprayer .

Description

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition for treating the hair or the skin, with which pigments, in particular pearlescent pigments, can be applied which give the treated hair or the skin a temporary color or luster effect.

In order to make application to the hair as simple as possible for the user in particular, the cosmetic composition according to the invention should be sprayable. In addition, the cosmetic carrier medium for the pigments should leave as little residue as possible on the treated hair or skin in order to impair the color effect of the pigments as little as possible.

The pigments contained in the cosmetic composition, especially if they are mineral pigments, have a density in the range from about 2.5 to 3.5 grams / cm ³ , which is about three times as high as the density of the carrier medium. The rheological properties of the cosmetic composition according to the invention should, on the one hand, enable a homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in the composition that is as stable as possible, so that the cosmetic composition on the one hand has the viscosity of a gel and on the other hand a flow limit and should be so shear-sensitive that it can be applied as a pump spray.

Furthermore, the pigments contained should adhere well to the treated surface (skin / hair) so that they do not trickle down after the carrier medium has dried on.

Ultimately, the cosmetic composition according to the invention should represent a cosmetic that is visually and olfactory attractive. The carrier medium should be as transparent as possible and have a pleasant perfume.

• - 30 - 85 Gew.-% Ethanol,
• - 15 - 37 Gew.-% Wasser,
• - mindestens ein vernetztes Copolymer, aufgebaut aus Acrylsäure und nicht-ethoxylierten Estern der Acrylsäure mit linearen C10-C30-Monoalkoholen als Monomeren, wobei das vernetzte Copolymer in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 - 1,0 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,3 - 0,8 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,45 - 0,60 Gew.-%,

• - mindestens ein Alkalisierungsmittel bis zu einem pH-Wert der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung im Bereich von 5 - 8, bevorzugt im Bereich von 6 - 7, besonders bevorzugt im Bereich von 6,2 - 6,8, jeweils gemessen bei 20°C,
• - mindestens eine Substanz, ausgewählt aus Ölen und Riechstoffen, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0 - 10 Gew.-%,
• - ein oder mehrere Tenside in einer Gesamtmenge von 0 - 0,1 Gew.-% und
• - mindestens ein Pigment in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1 - 10 Gew.-%,

wobei alle Mengenangaben jeweils auf das Gewicht der kosmetischen Zusammensetzung bezogen sind.Surprisingly, these objects have been achieved by a cosmetic composition containing

• - 30 - 85% by weight ethanol,
• - 15 - 37 wt .-% water,
• - At least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, the crosslinked copolymer in a total amount of 0.1-1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.45-0.60% by weight,

• - At least one alkalizing agent up to a pH of the cosmetic composition in the range of 5 - 8, preferably in the range of 6 - 7, particularly preferably in the range of 6.2 - 6.8, each measured at 20 ° C,
• - at least one substance selected from oils and fragrances in a total amount of 0-10% by weight,
• - One or more surfactants in a total amount of 0-0.1% by weight and
• - at least one pigment in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight,

all quantitative data being based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Ethanol

So that the color effect of the pigments on the treated hair or the skin is impaired as little as possible, the cosmetic carrier medium according to the invention for the pigments should leave as little residue as possible on the treated hair or the skin. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore contain 30-85% by weight, preferably 40-80% by weight, particularly preferably 55-78% by weight, extremely preferably 60-77% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

water

In order to ensure a storage-stable, homogeneous dispersion of the pigments in the cosmetic carrier medium according to the invention, a thickener must be included. Preferred thickeners that also enable the transparent design of the cosmetic carrier medium, require a certain amount of water in the medium to be thickened. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention therefore contain 15-37% by weight, preferably 18-30% by weight, particularly preferably 20-28% by weight, extremely preferably 22-25% by weight of water, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Cross-linked copolymer of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols

Surprisingly, it has been found that the objects set out here are optimally achieved through the use of at least one crosslinked copolymer built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers.

Another essential feature of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is the content of at least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, the at least one crosslinked copolymer in a total amount of 0.1 - 1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.45-0.60% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition. The at least one crosslinked copolymer of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols selected from copolymers with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer is preferred. Preferred crosslinking agents are selected from sucrose allyl ether and pentaerythrityl allyl ether.

According to the invention particularly preferred crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols can be obtained by polymerizing a monomer mixture which - based on its weight - 80 to 99 wt .-%, preferably 90 to 98 wt. -%, acrylic acid, at least one non-ethoxylated ester of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols in a total amount of 0.9-19.9% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight, and at least one crosslinking agent a total amount of 0.1-4% by weight. Preferred crosslinking agents are selected from sucrose allyl ether and pentaerythrityl allyl ether.

Further crosslinked copolymers of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that their 0.5% strength by weight dispersion in water at 25 ° C. and a pH in the range from 5.8 to 6.3 has a viscosity in the range from 45,000 to 65,000 mPas, measured with a Brookfield RVF or Brookfield RVT viscometer at a rotation frequency of 20 min ^-1 with spindle # 7.

The content of the at least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, is selected so that the viscosity of the cosmetic composition according to the invention is preferably in the range of 3,000-6,000 mPas 3,500-5,500 mPas, particularly preferably 4,000-4,500 mPas, is measured at 20 ° C. with the Brookfield rotational viscometer DV-II Pro, spindle 4, at a rotational frequency of 4 min ^-1 .

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention contain at least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, in a total amount of 0.1-1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.45-0.60% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention contain a total amount of 0.1-1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3-0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.45-0.60% by weight, in each case based on based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, at least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, this copolymer being obtainable by polymerizing a monomer mixture which - each based on its weight - 80 to 99% by weight, preferably 90 to 98% by weight, of acrylic acid, at least one non-ethoxylated ester of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols in a total amount of 0.9-19.9% by weight, preferably 2-10% by weight and at least one crosslinking agent in a total amount of 0.1-4% by weight.

The crosslinked copolymers claimed according to the invention, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, are amphiphilic copolymers.

Crosslinked copolymers preferred according to the invention, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, are the following commercial products from Lubrizol Advanced Materials, Inc .: Carbopol ETD 2020 polymer, Carbopol 1342 polymer, Carbopol 1382 polymer, Carbopol SC 200, Carbopol SC 500 Polymer, Carbopol Ultrez 20 Polymer, Carbopol Ultrez 21 Polymer, Carbopol Xtra-11 Polymer, Pemulen EZ-4U Polymeric Emulsifier, Pemulen TR-1 Polymer and Pemulen TR-2 Polymer. Further copolymers suitable according to the invention, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, are the commercial products Acritamer 501 ED (Rita Corp.), Acritamer 505 ED (Rita Corp.), from Sumitomo Seika Chemicals Co., Ltd .: Aqupec HV-701 EDR, Aqupec HV-501 ER, Aqupec SER W-150C and Aqupec SER W-300C, as well as Tego Carbomer 341 ER and TEGO Carbomer 750 HD, both from Evonik Nutrition & Care GmbH.

A crosslinked copolymer which is extraordinarily preferred according to the invention, composed of acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, is the commercial product Ultrez 21 from Lubrizol Advanced Materials with the INCI name Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer .

Alkalizing agent up to a pH of the cosmetic composition in the range from 5 to 8, preferably in the range from 6 to 7, particularly preferably in the range from 6.2 to 6.8, in each case measured at 20 ° C

In order to neutralize or partially neutralize the crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, so that the thickening effect occurs, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention also contain at least one alkalizing agent in one such an amount that the pH value of the cosmetic composition is in the range from 5 to 8, preferably in the range from 6 to 7, particularly preferably in the range from 6.2 to 6.8, in each case measured at 20.degree. Alkalizing agents preferred according to the invention are selected from the group comprising alkanolamines and alkali metal hydroxides, as well as mixtures thereof. The alkali metal ions of the hydroxides mentioned are preferably lithium, sodium, potassium, in particular sodium or potassium.

Above all, in order to obtain a carrier medium that is as transparent as possible, it is preferred according to the invention that the cosmetic compositions contain at least one alkanolamine as an alkalizing agent. The alkanolamines which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from primary amines with a C ₂ -C ₆ -alkyl parent structure which carries at least one hydroxyl group. Particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamines (1,1 ', 1 "-Nitrilotris-2-propanol), tromethamines (2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl ) -1,3-propanediol), tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine (CAS number 102-60-3), 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5 Aminopentan-1-ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino -2-methylpropan-1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof particularly preferred alkanolamines are selected from 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamines (1,1 ', 1 "-Nitrilotris-2-propanol), tromethamines (2-amino-2- (hydroxymethyl ) -1,3-propanediol), tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, 2-aminoethan-1-ol, and 2-amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof. An alkanolamine which is extraordinarily preferred according to the invention is 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.

To achieve a carrier medium that is as transparent as possible, which can be sprayed with a pump sprayer and yet has a sufficiently high viscosity so that a total pigment content of 0.1-10% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, can be dispersed in a storage-stable manner compositions preferred according to the invention, each based on their weight, at least one alkanolamine selected from 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (1,1 ', 1 "-nitrilotris-2-propanol), Tromethamine (2-Amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol), Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, 2-Aminoethan-1-ol and 2-Amino-2-methyl-propan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.05-0.5% by weight, preferably 0.10-0.40% by weight, more preferably 0.15-0.30% by weight and particularly preferably 0.20 up to 0.25% by weight.

To achieve a carrier medium that is as transparent as possible, which can be sprayed with a pump sprayer and yet has a sufficiently high viscosity so that a total pigment content of 0.1-10% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, is dispersed in a storage-stable manner may contain extremely preferred compositions according to the invention, each based on their weight, 0.05-0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.10-0.40% by weight, more preferably from 0.15-0.30 % By weight and particularly preferably from 0.20 to 0.25% by weight of 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol.

If the ethanol content of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is at the lower limit according to the claims, i.e. in the range of 30-45% by weight of ethanol, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition, alkali metal hydroxides, in particular sodium hydroxide and / or potassium hydroxide, can be included as the sole alkalizing agent .

The alkali metal hydroxides which can be used as alkalizing agents are preferably selected from sodium hydroxide and potassium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention contain, based in each case on their weight, 30-45% by weight of ethanol and at least one alkalizing agent selected from potassium hydroxide and sodium hydroxide and mixtures thereof, in a total amount of 0.05-0.5% by weight, preferably from 0.10-0.40% by weight, more preferably from 0.15-0.30% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.20 to 0.25% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Oils and fragrances

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that at least one substance, selected from oils and fragrances, in a total amount of 0-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-8% by weight, particularly preferably 1-6% by weight. -%, extraordinarily preferably 2-5% by weight, more extraordinarily preferably 3-4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

The cosmetic oil is liquid under normal conditions (20 ° C, 1013.25 mbar); Essential oils and perfume oils or fragrances are not counted among the cosmetic oils. The cosmetic oils that are liquid under normal conditions are immiscible with water.

According to the invention, essential oils are understood to mean mixtures of volatile components which are produced from vegetable raw materials by steam distillation, such as, for. B. Citrus oils.

If a cosmetic oil is mentioned in the present application, it is always a cosmetic oil that is neither a fragrance nor an essential oil, is liquid under normal conditions and is immiscible with water.

The definition of an odoriferous substance in the sense of the present application corresponds to the definition customary in the art, as can be found in the RÖMPP Chemie Lexikon, as of December 2007. According to this, an odorous substance is a chemical compound with a smell and / or taste that stimulates the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system (adequate stimulus). The physical and chemical properties required for this are a low molar mass of a maximum of 300 g / mol, a high vapor pressure, minimal water and high lipid solubility as well as weak polarity and the presence of at least one osmophoric group in the molecule. In order to distinguish volatile, low molecular weight substances, which are usually and also in the sense of the present application not regarded and used as odoriferous substances but primarily as solvents, such as, for example, ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and acetone, from odoriferous substances according to the invention, odoriferous substances according to the invention have a molar mass of 74 up to 300 g / mol, contain at least one osmophoric group in the molecule and have a smell and / or taste, that is, they excite the receptors of the hair cells of the olfactory system.

Since cosmetic compositions are usually perfumed, cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one fragrance in a total amount of 0.05-7% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5 - 3 wt .-%, extremely preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

examples for According to the invention, preferred fragrance and odoriferous compounds of the ester type are benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethyl acetate, benzyl acetate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, benzylmethylphenylglycinate, benzyl propylamally, benzylic hexylglycinate, benzyl propylamally, melhexylglycinate, allylcyclohexylglycinate, allylcyclohexylglycinate, allylcyclohexatyl propionyl, allylcyclohexatyl propionyl, allylcyclohexylglycinate, allylcyclohexatyl propionyl, allylcyclohexatyl propionylate, allylcyclohexatyl propionylate, Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the ether type preferred according to the invention are benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds preferred according to the invention of the aldehyde type are the linear alkanals with 8-18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde , Lilial and Bourgeonal, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the ketone type preferred according to the invention are the ionones, alpha-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the alcohol type preferred according to the invention are anethole, citronellol, eugenol, geraniol, linalool, Phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds of the terpene type preferred according to the invention are limonene and pinene. Examples of fragrance and fragrance compounds preferred according to the invention are pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose, ylang-ylang oil, muscatel sage oil, chamomile oil, clove oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, Galbanum oil, labdanum oil, orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil, furthermore the essential oils such as angelica root oil, anise oil, arnica flower oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champaca oil, gum tree oil, fine pine cone oil, guinea peel oil, fennel pine cone oil, eleminger oil, eenjean oil , Helichrysum oil, Ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, kajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine needle oil, copaïva balsam oil, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lime oil, musk oil, lemongrass oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil , Clove oil, niaouli oil, orange oil, origanum oil, palmarosa oil, patchouli oil, balsam oil of Peru, petitgrain oil , Pepper oil, peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, spiked oil, star anise oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, juniper oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, citronella oil. Further fragrance and fragrance compounds are ambrettolide, alpha-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, anthranilic acid methyl ester, acetophenone, benzyl acetone, benzaldehyde, benzoic acid ethyl ester, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl benzoate , n-decylaldehyde, n-dodecylaldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptinocarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, hydroquinone, isooxyethylene, isoxyethylene alcohol, iso-oxyzolethol, iso-oxyzol ether, isoxyzol alcohol, isoxyzol alcohol , Camphor, carvakrol, carvone, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl-n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilic acid methyl ester, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikol, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthyl ketone, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde -nonyl ketone, muskon, beta-naphthol ethyl ether, beta-naphthol methyl ether, nerol, N itrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyla alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, beta-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegon, safrol, salicylic acid isoamylate, salicylic acid isoamylate, salicylic acid isoamylate, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicyl methyl ester, salicyl methyl ester, salicylic acid ester, salicylic acid ester, salicyl methyl ester, salicyl methyl ester, salicylic acid ester, salicyl methyl ester, salicylic acid ester, salicylic acid ester, salicyl methyl ester, p-oxy-acetophenone, p-oxy-acetophenone, salicylic acid methyl ester, salicyl methyl ester Thymol, gamma-undecalactone, vanillin, veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamic alcohol, cinnamic acid, ethyl cinnamate and benzyl cinnamate.

Further preferred (more volatile) fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, linaylacetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinylacetate, citral and citronellal.

The cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention preferably contain a mixture of different fragrances which together produce an appealing fragrance note. Suitable perfume oils can also contain natural odorant mixtures, such as those obtainable from vegetable or animal sources, e.g. pine, citrus, jasmine, rose, lily or ylang-ylang oil. Essential oils of lower volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are also suitable as perfume oils, for example sage oil, chamomile oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, linden blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, laudanum oil, clove oil, bergamot oil, iso-clove oil , Geranium oil and rose oil.

It has surprisingly been found that a low content of at least one cosmetic oil can improve the adhesion of the pigments to the treated hair or the treated skin. Cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are therefore characterized in that they contain at least cosmetic oil in a total amount of 0.05-5% by weight, preferably 0.1-4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-3% by weight , extremely preferably 1 to 2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic oils particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols with 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids with 2-30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated. These include cetyl 2-ethylhexanoate, 2-hexyl decyl stearate, 2-hexyl decyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate and 2-ethylhexyl stearate. Also preferred are isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, cetearyl isononanoate, 2-hexatyl isononanoate, 2-hexatyl iso-ethyl-2-hexatyl iso-ethyl-2-hexatyl iso-ethyl Butyl octanoic acid 2-butyl octanoate, diisotridecyl acetate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl oleate, erucyl oleate, ethylene glycol dioleate and ethylene glycol dipalmitate.

Further according to the invention preferred cosmetic oils are selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from mineral oils, paraffin oils, C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, which for example, under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010, or Name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase ^® 2004G from Nestle are available, further selected from C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoparaffins, in particular from isodecane, isododecane, isotetradecane and isohexadecane and mixtures thereof, as well as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C8-22 alkanols. C12-C15-alkyl benzoate, isostearyl benzoate, ethylhexyl benzoate and octyl docecyl benzoate are particularly preferred.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, which are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated. The branched alcohols are often referred to as Guerbet alcohols because they can be obtained after the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are 2-hexyldecanol, 2-octyldodecanol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, e.g. mixtures of 2-hexyl decanol and 2-hexyl decyl laurate.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides (= triple esters of glycerol) of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C8-30 fatty acids. It is particularly preferable to use natural oils, for example amaranth seed oil, apricot kernel oil, argan oil, avocado oil, babassu oil, cottonseed oil, borage seed oil, camelina oil, safflower oil, peanut oil, pomegranate kernel oil, grapefruit seed oil, hemp seed oil, hazelnut oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, almond oil, linseed oil, almond oil , Marula oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, Brazil nut oil, pecan oil, peach kernel oil, rapeseed oil, castor oil, sea buckthorn pulp oil, sea buckthorn kernel oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, grapeseed oil, walnut oil, wild rose oil, liquid coconut oil, wheat germ oil and the like. Synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular capric / caprylic triglycerides, e.g. B. the commercial products Myritol® 318 or Myritol® 331 (BASF) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin with branched fatty acid residues.

Further cosmetic oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C2-C10 alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / Dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyhydric C8-22 alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, e.g. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyvalent C3-22 alkanols such as glycerol, butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, which can be esterified if desired, e.g. B. PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-9 butyl ether, PPG-10 butanediol, PPG-15 stearyl ether and glycereth-7-diisononanoate.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the C8-C22 fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C2-C7 hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid.

Further cosmetic oils preferred according to the invention are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C _{3-22 alkanols, C 3-22} alkanediols or C _3-22 alkanetriols, e.g. B. dicaprylyl carbonate or the esters according to the teaching of DE 19756454 A1 , especially glycerine carbonate.

Further cosmetic oils, which may be preferred according to the invention, are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C2- C6 alkanols.

Further cosmetic oils which are suitable according to the invention are selected from the silicone oils, to which, for. B. dialkyl and alkylarylsiloxanes, such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane count. Volatile silicone oils can be preferred, which can be cyclic, such as. B. octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as they are, for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 from Dow Corning are included. Also suitable are volatile linear silicone oils, in particular hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L ₄ ) and any two or three mixtures of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L ₄ , preferably mixtures as they are e.g. . B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0.65 cSt) and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Preferred non-volatile silicone oils are selected from higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available e.g. B. under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid with kinematic viscosities (25 ° C) in the range of 5 - 100 cSt, preferably 5 - 50 cSt or also 5 - 10 cSt, and dimethylpolysiloxane with a kinematic viscosity ( 25 ° C) of about 350 cSt.

According to the invention, it can be extremely preferred to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils.

Preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one cosmetic oil selected from natural and synthetic hydrocarbons, particularly preferably from paraffin oils, C ₁₈ -C ₃₀ isoparaffins, in particular isoeicosane, polyisobutenes and polydecenes, C ₈ -C ₁₆ -Isoparaffins, as well as 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane; the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _8-22 alkanols; Fatty alcohols with 6-30 carbon atoms that are unsaturated or branched and saturated or branched and unsaturated; Triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids, in particular natural oils; the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols; the esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2 to 30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated; the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units with mono- or polyvalent C _8-22 alkanols; the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with mono- or polyvalent C _3-22 alkanols; the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids; the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with C _3-22 alkanols, C _3-22 alkanediols or C _3-22 alkanetriols; the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monobasic linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ alkanols; Silicone oils and mixtures of the aforementioned substances in a total amount of 0.05-5% by weight, preferably 0.1-4% by weight, particularly preferably 0.5-3% by weight, extremely preferably 1-2% by weight .-%, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Surfactants

Since the cosmetic compositions according to the invention have a considerable ethanol content, the hydrophobic fragrances and oils can be incorporated in the claimed total amount of up to 10% by weight without any problems without higher amounts of surfactants. The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are therefore characterized in that at least one surfactant in a total amount of 0-0.1% by weight, preferably 0-0.05% by weight, particularly preferably 0-0.01% by weight, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Surfactants and emulsifiers in the context of the present application are amphiphilic (bifunctional) compounds which consist of at least one hydrophobic and at least one hydrophilic part of the molecule. The hydrophobic radical is preferably a hydrocarbon chain with 8-28 carbon atoms, which can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched. _{This C 8} -C ₂₈ alkyl chain is particularly preferably linear. The basic properties of surfactants and emulsifiers are oriented absorption at interfaces as well as aggregation to form micelles and the formation of lyotropic phases.

The crosslinked copolymers used according to the invention, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, are not able to Form micelles or lyotropic phases and are therefore not surfactants or emulsifiers in the sense of the present application.

According to the invention, anionic, nonionic, cationic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants are suitable.

Suitable anionic surfactants in the compositions according to the invention are all anionic surface-active substances suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group with 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, the molecule can contain glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups. Examples of suitable anionic surfactants are linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps), alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl taurates, acyl isethionates, sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl esters, sulfosuccinic acid dialkyl esters, and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkylsulfonates, and alkyl sulfosulfinic acid monoalkylsulfonates and alpha-alkyl sulfonatesulfonates and alpha-alkylsulfinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters and alpha-alkyl sulfonatesulfonates and alpha-alkyl, linear alkanesulfonates and alpha-alkyl, alkanesulfonate and alpha-alkyl ethersulfonate monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters and alpha-alkyl, alkanesulfonate and alpha-alkyl ethersulfonates, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, alkyl ether carboxylic acids, acyl sarcosinates, acyl polyoxyethyl esters / or alkenyl phosphates. Examples of such surfactants are the compounds with the INCI names Sodium Laureth Sulphate, Sodium Lauryl Sulphate, Sodium Myreth Sulphate or Sodium Laureth Carboxylate.

Zwitterionic surfactants are surface-active compounds which have at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one carboxylate, sulfonate or sulfate group in the molecule. Examples of zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example coconut alkyldimethylammonium glycinate, N-acyl aminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinate, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines, each with 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group, and cocoacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinate.

Amphoteric surfactants are surface-active compounds which, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkyl or acyl group, contain at least one free amino group and at least one —COOH or —SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts . Examples of suitable amphoteric surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids, each with 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group.

Nonionic surfactants contain z. B. a polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether group. Such compounds are, for example, adducts of 4 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide with linear and branched fatty alcohols, with fatty acids and with alkylphenols, each with 8 to 20 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, ethoxylated mono-, di- and Triglycerides, such as, for example, glycerol monolaurate + 20 ethylene oxide, and glycerol monostearate + 20 ethylene oxide, sorbitan fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as, for example, the polysorbates (Tween 20, Tween 21, Tween 60, Tween 61, Tween 81), ethylene oxide addition products of ethylene oxide fatty amines , as well as alkyl polyglycosides.

Pigments

The cosmetic compositions according to the invention are further characterized in that at least one pigment is extremely preferred in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 1-6% by weight 2-5% by weight, more particularly preferably 3-4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, pigments are understood to mean coloring compounds which, at 25 ° C. in water, have a solubility of less than 0.5 g / L, preferably less than 0.1 g / L, even more preferably less than 0, 05 g / L. The water solubility can be achieved, for example, by means of the method described below: 0.5 g of the pigment is weighed out in a beaker. A stir fry is added. Then one liter of distilled water is added. This mixture is heated to 25 ° C for one hour while stirring on a magnetic stirrer. If undissolved constituents of the pigment are still visible in the mixture after this period, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L. If the pigment-water mixture cannot be visually assessed due to the high color intensity of the pigment which may be present in finely dispersed form, the mixture is filtered. Stay on top of that If the filter paper contains a proportion of undissolved pigments, the solubility of the pigment is below 0.5 g / L.

Pigments suitable according to the invention can be of inorganic and / or organic origin.

Because of their excellent resistance to light, weather and / or temperature, the use of inorganic pigments in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is particularly preferred.

The preferred number-average particle size of the - preferably inorganic - pigments is 0.1 μm to 1 mm, more preferably from 0.5 μm to 750 μm and in particular 10 μm to 500 μm.

In a preferred embodiment, compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one pigment is selected from inorganic pigments. Pigments preferred according to the invention are selected from synthetic or natural inorganic pigments. Inorganic pigments of natural origin can be made from chalk, ocher, umber, green earth, burnt Terra di Siena or graphite, for example. Further inorganic pigments preferred according to the invention are selected from white pigments such as titanium dioxide, in particular rutile, anatase or brookite, black pigments such as iron oxide black, colored pigments such as ultramarine or iron oxide red, and fluorescent or phosphorescent pigments and mixtures of these pigments.

Inorganic pigments particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from colored metal oxides, colored metal hydroxides and colored metal oxide hydrates, mixed-phase pigments, sulfur-containing silicates, silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, metal chromates and / or metal molybdates. Particularly preferred pigments are titanium dioxide (CI 77891), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and brown iron oxide (CI 77491), manganese violet (CI 77742), ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI77289), iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI77510) and / or carmine (Cochineal).

Further pigments preferred according to the invention are the so-called pearlescent pigments. These usually have a pigment core made of a platelet-shaped material, which is preferably selected from natural mica (mica), in particular muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite or margarite and preferably muscovite or phlogopite, made from synthetic mica, and from borosilicates, especially sodium borosilicate, Calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and calcium sodium borosilicate, the pigment core being coated with one or more layers with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides or a metal oxychloride, such as bismuth oxychloride. Such borosilicate flakes are often referred to as glass particles.

As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic mica coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as the pearlescent pigment. Such pearlescent pigments which are suitable according to the invention and are based on synthetic mica are described in the laid-open specification WO 2005/065632 which are expressly referred to.

The color of the respective pigments is varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide or metal oxides and by the qualitative selection of the metal oxide (s).

Examples of the present invention particularly suitable pearlescent pigments are commercially available, for example under the trade names Timiron® ^®, Rona ^®, Xirona ^®, Colorona® ^® and Dichrona® ^® from Merck, ariable ^® by the company Sensient, Prestige ^® or Mirage ^® by the company Eckart Cosmetic Colors , Sunshine ^® sold by the company Sunstar and Oxen of the company Hebei Oxen New Materials.

In a preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention contains as pigment at least one color, effect and / or pearlescent pigment selected from metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or from pearlescent pigments, the latter having a pigment core made of a platelet-shaped material selected from natural mica, in particular muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite or margarite and preferably muscovite or phlogopite, made from synthetic mica, and from borosilicates, especially sodium borosilicate, calcium borosilicate, Calcium aluminum borosilicate and calcium sodium borosilicate, wherein the pigment core can be coated with one or more layers of one or more metal oxides or a metal oxychloride. Especially the platelet-shaped pigment cores made of natural or synthetic mica are preferably coated with one or more layers of one or more metal oxides or a metal oxychloride. The platelet-shaped pigments made from borosilicates are particularly preferably uncoated.

Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain one or more borosilicate or mica pigments with titanium dioxide (CI 77891), manganese violet (CI 77742), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown Iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), and / or ultramarine (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) can. In particular, the platelet-shaped pigment cores made of natural or synthetic mica are preferably coated with one or more layers of one or more metal oxides or a metal oxychloride. The platelet-shaped pigments made from borosilicates are particularly preferably uncoated.

For the selection of pigments particularly preferred according to the invention, the stipulation continues to apply only to use titanium dioxide-free pigments, since the use of titanium dioxide-containing pigments in cosmetics is now subject to certain restrictions or will be subject to restrictions in the near future.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention therefore contains as inorganic pigment at least one titanium dioxide-free color, effect and / or pearlescent pigment selected from metal oxides, with the exception of titanium dioxide, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, and complex metal cyanides , Metal sulfates, bronze pigments and / or pearlescent pigments, the latter having a pigment core made of a platelet-shaped material selected from natural mica, in particular muscovite, phlogopite, paragonite, biotite, lepidolite or margarite and preferably muscovite or phlogopite, made from synthetic mica , and of borosilicates, in particular sodium borosilicate, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate and calcium sodium borosilicate, the pigment core having one or more layers of one or more metal oxides, with the exception of titanium dioxide, or a Me talloxy chloride can be coated. Particularly preferred are cosmetic compositions according to the invention which contain one or more titanium dioxide-free borosilicate or mica pigments which are colored with manganese violet (CI 77742), black iron oxide (CI 77499), yellow iron oxide (CI 77492), red and / or brown iron oxide (CI 77491, CI 77499), and / or ultramarines (sodium aluminum sulfosilicates, CI 77007, Pigment Blue 29), chromium oxide hydrate (CI 77289), chromium oxide (CI 77288) and / or iron blue (Ferric Ferrocyanide, CI 77510) can be coated.

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 77891 (Iron Oxides)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 77288 (Chromium Oxide Greens)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide, Carmine
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

As an alternative to natural mica, synthetic natural materials coated with one or more metal oxide (s) can also be used as a pearlescent pigment. Particularly preferred pearlescent pigments are based on natural or synthetic mica (mica) and are coated with one or more of the aforementioned metal oxides. The color of the respective pigments can be varied by varying the layer thickness of the metal oxide (s). Particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Colorona® are, for example:

• Colorona Copper, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Passion Orange, Merck, Mica, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Alumina
• Colorona Patina Silver, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona RY, Merck, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 75470 (CARMINE)
• Colorona Oriental Beige, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (TITANIUM DIOXIDE), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Dark Blue, Merck, MICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, FERRIC FERROCYANIDE
• Colorona Chameleon, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Aborigine Amber, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona Blackstar Blue, Merck, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Patagonian Purple, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77510 (FERRIC FERROCYANIDE)
• Colorona Red Brown, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide)
• Colorona Russet, Merck, CI 77491 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 77891 (Iron Oxides)
• Colorona Imperial Red, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), D&C RED NO. 30 (CI 73360)
• Colorona Majestic Green, Merck, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), MICA, CI 77288 (Chromium Oxide Greens)
• Colorona Light Blue, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Ferric Ferrocyanide (CI 77510)
• Colorona Red Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron Oxides)
• Colorona Gold Plus MP 25, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
• Colorona Carmine Red, Merck, MICA, Titanium Dioxide, Carmine
• Colorona Blackstar Green, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bordeaux, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Bronze Fine, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Fine Gold MP 20, Merck, MICA, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Sienna Fine, Merck, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES), MICA
• Colorona Sienna, Merck, MICA, CI 77491 (IRON OXIDES)
• Colorona Precious Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 (Iron oxides), Tin oxide
• Colorona Sun Gold Sparkle MP 29, Merck, Mica, Titanium Dioxide (CI 77891), Iron Oxides (CI 77491)
• Colorona Mica Black, Merck, CI 77499 (Iron oxides), Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide)
• Colorona Bright Gold, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), CI 77491 (Iron oxides)
• Colorona Blackstar Gold, Merck, MICA, CI 77499 (IRON OXIDES)

• Xirona® Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

Other particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Xirona® are, for example:

• Xirona® Golden Sky, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Caribbean Blue, Merck, Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Silica, Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Kiwi Rose, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide
• Xirona® Magic Mauve, Merck, Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide.

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In addition, particularly preferred color pigments with the trade name Unipure® are, for example:

• Unipure Red LC 381 EM, Sensient CI 77491 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Black LC 989 EM, Sensient, CI 77499 (Iron Oxides), Silica
• Unipure Yellow LC 182 EM, Sensient, CI 77492 (Iron Oxides), Silica

In a further embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the invention can also contain one or more coloring compounds from the group of organic pigments.

The organic pigments according to the invention are correspondingly insoluble, organic dyes or color lakes, for example from the group of nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, anthraquinone, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene -, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo, thioindido, dioxazine, and / or triarylmethane compounds can be selected.

Particularly suitable organic pigments are, for example, carmine, quinacridone, phthalocyanine, sorghum, blue pigments with the color index numbers CI 42090, CI 69800, CI 69825, CI 73000, CI 74100, CI 74160, yellow pigments with the color index numbers CI 11680 , CI 11710, CI 15985, CI 19140, CI 20040, CI 21100, CI 21108, CI 47000, CI 47005, green pigments with the color index numbers CI 61565, CI 61570, CI 74260, orange pigments with the color index numbers CI 11725 , CI 15510, CI 45370, CI 71105, red pigments with the color index numbers CI 12085, CI 12120, CI 12370, CI 12420, CI 12490, CI 14700, CI 15525, CI 15580, CI 15620, CI 15630, CI 15800, CI 15850, CI 15865, CI 15880, CI 17200, CI 26100, CI 45380, CI 45410, CI 58000, CI 73360, CI 73915 and / or CI 75470.

The organic pigment can also be a colored lacquer. In the context of the invention, the term “colored varnish” is understood to mean particles which comprise a layer of absorbed dyes, the unit of particles and dye being insoluble under the above-mentioned conditions. The particles can be, for example, inorganic substrates, which can be silica, calcium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate or also aluminum. The alizarin color varnish, for example, can be used as the color varnish.

Because of their excellent light and temperature stability, the use of the aforementioned pigments in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is particularly preferred. It is also preferred if the pigments used have a certain particle size. This particle size leads, on the one hand, to a uniform distribution of the pigments when they are applied to the hair or the skin and, on the other hand, avoids a rough hair or skin feel after the cosmetic composition has been applied. It is therefore preferred according to the invention if the at least one pigment has an average particle size D ₅₀ of 1.0 to 50 μm, preferably 5.0 to 45 μm, more preferably 10 to 40 μm, in particular 14 to 30 μm. The mean particle size D ₅₀ can be determined, for example, by means of dynamic light scattering (DLS).

The size of the substrate platelet can be matched to the particular application, in particular the desired effect on the keratinic material. As a rule, the substrate platelets have a number-average largest diameter of about 2 to 200 μm, preferably about 5 to 100 μm, particularly preferably 10 to 40 μm.

In a preferred embodiment, the aspect ratio, expressed by the ratio of the mean size to the average thickness, is at least 80, preferably at least 200, more preferably at least 500, particularly preferably more than 750. The mean size of the uncoated substrate platelets is understood to be the d50 value of the uncoated substrate platelets. Unless otherwise stated, the d50 value was determined using a Sympatec Helos device with Quixel wet dispersion. To prepare the sample, the sample to be examined was predispersed in isopropanol for a period of 3 minutes.

Due to their irregular structure, pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets generate a high proportion of scattered light. In addition, the pigments based on lamellar substrate platelets do not completely cover the existing color of the treated keratinic material, i.e. the hair or the skin, and effects analogous to natural graying of the hair can be achieved, for example.

Lenticular (= lens-shaped) substrate platelets have an essentially regular, round edge and are also referred to as "silver dollars" because of their appearance. Due to their regular structure, pigments based on lenticular substrate platelets predominate in the amount of reflected light.

The adhesion and abrasion resistance of pigments based on lamellar or lenticular substrate platelets on keratinous material such as hair or skin can be significantly increased by modifying the outermost layer with organic compounds such as silanes, phosphoric acid esters, titanates, borates or carboxylic acids. The organic compounds are bound to the surface of the outermost, preferably metal oxide-containing, layer. The outermost layer refers to the layer that is spatially furthest away from the lamellar substrate platelet, the pigment core. The organic compounds are preferably functional silane compounds which can bind to the outermost metal oxide-containing layer. These can be either mono- or bifunctional compounds. Examples of bifunctional organic compounds are methacryloxypropenyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltrimethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyltriethoxysilane, 3-acryloxypropyltrimethoxysilane, 2-methacryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 2-acryloxyethyltriethoxysilane, 3-methacryloxypropyl tris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (propoxy) silane, 3-methacryloxypropyltris (butoxy) -silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (methoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxyethoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropylysilane, 3-acryloxypropylysilane, vinyltrimethoxy, vinylysilane, vinyltrimethoxhoxhoxy, vinylysilane, vinyltrimethoxy, vinyltrimethoxy, vinyltrimethoxhoxy butoxy) -silane (butoxy) -silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxy) -silane, vinyltrimethoxhoxy, butoxy) -silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxy) silane, 3-acryloxypropyltris (butoxy) silane , Vinylmethyldichlorosilane, vinylmethyldiethoxysilane, vinyltriacetoxysilane, vinyltrichlorosilane, phenylvinyldiethoxysilane, or phenylallyldichlorosilane. Furthermore, a modification with a monofunctional silane, in particular with an alkylsilane or an arylsilane, can take place. This has only one functional group that is covalently attached to the surface of the pigment on the basis of coated lamellar substrate platelets (ie to the outermost metal oxide containing layer) or, if it is not completely covered, can bond to the metal surface. The hydrocarbon residue of the silane points away from the pigment. Depending on the type and nature of the hydrocarbon radical of the silane, a different degree of hydrophobicity of the pigment is achieved. Examples of such silanes are hexadecyltrimethoxysilane, propyltrimethoxysilane, etc. Pigments based on silicon dioxide-coated aluminum substrate platelets which are surface-modified with a monofunctional silane are particularly preferred. Particularly preferred surface treatment agents for the pigments preferred according to the invention are octyltrimethoxysilane, octyltriethoxysilane, hexadecyltrimethoxysilane and hexadecyltriethoxysilane.

The changed surface properties, in particular the hydrophobization, can improve adhesion, abrasion resistance and alignment in use.

Further cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention contain a pigment based on lamellar and / or lenticular (lens-shaped) substrate platelets.

VMP pigments

Furthermore, pigments based on a substrate platelet which comprises a vacuum-metallized pigment (VMP) are also preferred. The substrate platelets of the VMP type have an average thickness of at most 50 nm, preferably less than 30 nm, particularly preferably at most 25 nm, for example at most 20 nm. The average thickness of the VMP substrate platelets is at least 1 nm, preferably at least 2.5 nm, particularly preferably at least 5 nm, for example at least 10 nm. Preferred ranges for the thickness of the VMP substrate platelets are 2.5 to 50 nm, 5-50 nm, 10 to 50 nm; 2.5 to 30 nm, 5 to 30 nm, 10 to 30 nm; 2.5 to 25 nm, 5 to 25 nm, 10 to 25 nm, 2.5 to 20 nm, 5 to 20 nm and 10 to 20 nm. Preferably, each substrate platelet has as uniform a thickness as possible over its entire extent. As a result of the small thickness of the substrate platelets, VMP pigments of this type show a particularly high hiding power.

The substrate platelets of VMP pigments preferred according to the invention have a monolithic structure. In this context, monolithic means consisting of a single closed unit without breaks, layers or inclusions, although changes in structure can occur within the substrate platelets. The substrate platelets are preferably constructed homogeneously, i.e. no concentration gradient occurs within the platelets. In particular, the substrate platelets are not constructed in layers and have no particles or particles distributed therein. The substrate platelets of preferred VMP pigments can be made up of any material which can be brought into platelet form. They can be of natural origin, but they can also be manufactured synthetically. Materials from which the VMP substrate platelets can be constructed are, for example, metals and metal alloys, metal oxides, preferably aluminum oxide, inorganic compounds and minerals such as mica and (semi) precious stones, as well as plastics. The VMP substrate platelets are preferably selected from metals or metal alloys. Any metal suitable for metallic luster pigments can be considered as the metal. Such metals include iron and steel, as well as all air and water-resistant (semi) metals such as platinum, zinc, chromium, molybdenum and silicon, and their alloys such as aluminum bronze and brass. Preferred metals are aluminum, copper, silver and gold. Preferred VMP substrate platelets are aluminum platelets and brass platelets, with substrate platelets made of aluminum (CI 77000) being particularly preferred. Lamellar VMP substrate platelets are characterized by an irregularly structured edge and are also referred to as "cornflakes" due to their appearance. Vacuum metallized pigments (VMP) can be obtained, for example, by releasing metals, metal alloys or metal oxides from appropriately coated foils. They are distinguished by a particularly small thickness of the substrate platelets in the range from 5 to 50 nm and by a particularly smooth surface with increased reflectivity. Substrate platelets which comprise a pigment metallized in a vacuum are also referred to as VMP substrate platelets in the context of this application. VMP substrate platelets made of aluminum can be obtained, for example, by releasing aluminum from metallized foils.

The VMP substrate platelets made of metal or metal alloy can be passivated, for example by anodizing (oxide layer) or chromating.

Uncoated lamellar, lenticular and / or VMP substrate platelets, in particular those made of metal or metal alloy, reflect the incident light to a high degree and create a light-dark flop, but no color impression.

A color impression can be generated, for example, on the basis of optical interference effects. Such pigments can be based on at least once coated substrate platelets. These show interference effects due to the superposition of differently refracted and reflected light rays. Pigments based on lamellar VMP substrate platelets which are preferred according to the invention are, for example, the pigments of the VISIONAIRE series from Eckart.

Pigments based on lenticular VMP substrate platelets are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Gorgeous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Pigments based on a substrate platelet comprising a vacuum-metallized pigment are available, for example, under the name Alegrace® Marvelous or Alegrace® Aurous from Schlenk Metallic Pigments GmbH.

Further cosmetic compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain polyurethanes-34. It has surprisingly been found that the adhesion of the pigments to the treated hair or the treated skin can be improved by a content of polyurethane-34. Polyurethane-34 is a polymer that is produced in several reaction steps. First, a copolymer is produced from 1,6-hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and adipic acid; this is reacted with hexamethylene diisocyanate. The resulting polyurethane is reacted with sodium N- (2-aminoethyl) -2-aminoethanesulfonate and ethylenediamine to form the final polymer with the INCI name Polyurethane-34. A polyurethane-34 preferred according to the invention is sold by Covestro under the trade name Baycusan® C 1001/1. It has a glass transition temperature of -51.5 ° C., measured in accordance with DIN EN 61 006. In cosmetic compositions particularly preferred according to the invention, the content of polyurethane-34 is 0.03-1% by weight, preferably 0.1-0.7 % By weight, particularly preferably 0.25-0.4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition.

Another object of the present invention is a method for the cosmetic treatment of the hair or the skin, in which a cosmetic composition according to one of claims 1 to 10 or according to one of the embodiments described above is applied to the hair or the skin, the application being preferred by spraying, particularly preferably by spraying with a pump sprayer.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the present invention without restricting it thereto. The quantities given in all tables are in% by weight, unless otherwise noted. Table 1: Cosmetic compositions according to the invention (all amounts in% by weight) GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO ingredient 9 \ 10 9 \ 01 9 \ 02 9 \ 03 9 \ 04 9 \ 05 9 \ 06 9 \ 07 9 \ 08 60 \ 01 Ethanol 96% by volume denatured (t-butanol, Bitrex) 65.00 79.00 79.70 79.60 79.50 79.40 79.30 79.65 65.00 65.00 demineralized water 32.45 19.50 19.80 19.80 19.80 19.80 19.80 19.80 34.45 25.35 Carbopol Ultrez 21 0.15 0.10 0.10 0.20 0.30 0.40 0.50 0.15 0.15 0.45 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.20 0.90 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Isopropyl myristate 2.00 - - - - - - - - 2.00 Perfume - - - - - - - - - 2.00 Timiron Snowflake MP-99 0.20 0.50 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 - Sodium borosilicate platelets (40 - 200 µm), TiO ₂ -free - - - - - - - - - 5.00

Even after 6-8 weeks of storage at room temperature, the pigments remain homogeneously dispersed in the gel.

Hair and skin treatment according to the invention

The gels according to the invention according to Table 1 were filled into a pump spray container. From this, the respective gel was sprayed onto dry hair. The hair showed a beautiful shine with attractive glitter and / or colored glitter effects. The pigments adhered well to the hair. The gels according to the invention were sprayed onto dry skin in a second treatment process and gave the skin attractive glitter and / or colored glitter effects. The pigments adhered well to the skin.

Examples not according to the invention

Table 2 GO GO GO GO GO GO GO 197 \ 01 197 \ 09 197 \ 10 197 \ 11 197 \ 12 197 \ 13 197 \ 14 VOLAREST FL-LQ (RB) EN 01955 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 2.0 Potassium hydroxide 50% 0.1 - - - - - - Baycusan C 1001/1 1.0 - - - - - - Timiron Snowflake MP-99 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 AMP-ULTRA PC 2000 - 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Ethanol 96% by volume, denatured (t-butanol, Bitrex) 50.0 39.0 49.0 49.0 69.0 39.4 39.0 Water, demineralized 47.7 59.6 49.6 49.6 29.6 59.2 58.6

Although the compositions according to Table 2 formed stable gels, they could not keep the pigments homogeneously dispersed. Table 3 GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO 197 \ 01 197 \ 02 197 \ 03 197 \ 04 197 \ 05 197 \ 06 197 \ 07 197 \ 08 VOLAREST FL-LQ (RB) EN 01955 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.00 4.0 4.0 1.0 Potassium hydroxide 50% 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.10 0.1 0.1 0.1 Baycusan C 1001/1 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.00 1.0 1.0 1.0 Timiron Snowflake MP-99 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.20 0.2 0.4 0.2 Glycerin 99.5% - - - - 0.40 - - - D-panthenol 75% - - - - 0.15 - - - Bentone 38 V CG - - - - 1.57 - - - Perfume - - - - 0.08 - 0.10 - Isopropyl myristate - - - - 3.15 - - - Ethanol 96% denat. (t-butanol, Bitrex) 50.0 60.0 70.0 80.0 64.65 70.0 70.0 39.0 Water, demineralized 47.7 37.7 27.7 17.7 27.70 24.7 24.4 58.7

The gels according to Table 3 separated and could not keep the pigments homogeneously dispersed.

The test series according to Table 2 and Table 3 show that not every arbitrary amphiphilic copolymer, here acrylates / beheneth-25 methacrylate copolymer, is suitable for producing an alcohol-containing gel in which pigments can be homogeneously dispersed in a long-term stable manner. Table 4: GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO GO 144 \ 02 144 \ 03 144 \ 04 144 \ 05 144 \ 06 144 \ 07 144 \ 08 144 \ 09 144 \ 10 144 \ 11 Keltrol CG-SFT 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 2.5 Glycerine 99.5% by weight 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 5.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Lactic acid 80% by weight DAB 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Dermacryl 79 1.0 - - - - - 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Isopropyl myristate - 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 4.0 - - - - Colorona Precious Gold 3.0 3.0 3.0 6.0 3.0 10.0 - 5.0 - - Xirona Golden Sky - - 3.0 - 7.0 - - - - - Sumicos walnut 43839 - - - - - - 5.0 - - - Prestige Fire Red - - - - - - - - 5.0 - Oxen C88046 Golden / Kelly / Green / Blue - - - - - - - - - 5.0 Ethanol 96% by volume denat. (t-butanol, Bitrex) 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 Water, demineralized 72.9 69.9 66.9 66.9 62.9 62.9 70.9 70.9 70.9 70.9

The gels according to Table 4 do not tolerate more than 15% by weight of ethanol (96% by volume). The xanthan gum does not thicken with more than 14.4% by weight of ethanol, the gels break and the pigments do not remain in suspension. Table 5: GO 147 \ 02 GO 147 \ 03 GO 146 \ 02 GO 146 \ 03 Glycerine 99.5% by weight 5.0 5.0 - - Phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4 Perfume 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Potassium hydroxide 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Ethanol 96% by volume denat. (t-butanol, Bitrex) 15.0 15.0 15.0 15.0 Dermacryl 79 1.0 - 1.0 - Colorona Precious Gold 3.0 3.0 3.0 3.0 Tylose H 100000 YP2 3.0 3.0 - - Natrosol 250 HR - - 3.0 3.0 Isopropyl myristate - 4.0 - 4.0 Water, demineralized 72.4 69.4 77.4 74.4

The pigments in the compositions of Table 5 could not be kept homogeneously dispersed. The alcohol content is too low for the specified requirements for the end product. Table 6: GO GO GO GO GO 181 \ 01 181 \ 02 181 \ 03 181 \ 04 181 \ 05 Isopropyl myristate 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Dehyquart A CA 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Perfume 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 0.10 Xirona Caribbean Blue 7.00 5.00 5.00 20.00 5.00 1,2-propanediol 7.50 7.50 7.50 7.50 7.50 Tylose H 100000 YP2 2.50 2.00 1.50 1.50 1.50 Ethanol 96% by volume denat. (t-butanol, Bitrex) 28.40 30.90 31.40 31.40 - Water, demineralized 52.00 52.00 52.00 37.00 83.40

In all of the formulations in Table 6, the pigments sank to the bottom. The gels were not stable. Table 7: Raw materials used Trade name INCI Manufacturer Baycusan C 1001/1 Polyurethane-34 (32% by weight), Aqua (68% by weight) Covestro Dermacryl 79 Acrylates / Octylacrylamide Copolymer (97% by Weight) AkzoNobel Bentone 38 V CG Disteardimonium Hectorite Elementis Specialties Timiron Snowflake MP-99 Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (10 - 125 µm) Merck Dehyquart A CA Cetrimonium Chloride (25% by weight), Citric Acid (1.5% by weight), Aqua (73.5% by weight) BASF SE Xirona Caribbean Blue Mica (and) Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica (and) Tin Merck Oxides; Mica (CI 77019): 23-42% by weight; Titanium dioxide (CI 77891): 29-39% by weight; Silica: 29-37% by weight; Tin oxide: ≤ 1.0% by weight 10.0 - 60.0 µm (80% within this size area); D50: 21.0-27.0 µm Xirona Golden Sky Silica, CI 77891 (Titanium Dioxide), Tin Oxide (Sili- Merck cium dioxide coated with titanium dioxide and tin oxide Colorona Precious Mica, CI 77891 (Titanium dioxide), Silica, CI 77491 Merck gold (Iron oxides), Tin oxide Sumicos Walnut Mica (and) Iron Oxide [10.0 - 60.0 µm (80% within Sudarshan 43839 this size range)] Prestige Fire Red Mica (and) Iron Oxide [10.0 - 50.0 µm (80% within Sudarshan this size range)] Oxen C88046 Golden / Mica, Calcium Aluminum Borosilicate, CI 77491 (Iron Hebei Oxen Kelly / Green / Blue oxides) New Materials VOLAREST FL-LQ Acrylates / Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer Croda (RB) EN 01955 (30% by weight), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Aqua Keltrol CG-SFT Xanthan gum CP Kelco Tylose H 100000 YP2 Hydroxyethyl cellulose ShinEtsu Natrosol 250 HR Hydroxyethyl cellulose Ashland

QUOTES INCLUDED IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of the documents listed by the applicant was generated automatically and is included solely for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Patent literature cited

• DE 19756454 A1 [0045]
• WO 2005/065632 [0066]

Claims (10)

Cosmetic composition containing - 30 - 85% by weight ethanol, - 15 - 37 wt .-% water, - At least one crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, the crosslinked copolymer in a total amount of 0.1-1.0% by weight, preferably 0.3 - 0.8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.45-0.60% by weight, - At least one alkalizing agent up to a pH of the cosmetic composition in the range of 5 - 8, preferably in the range of 6 - 7, particularly preferably in the range of 6.2 - 6.8, each measured at 20 ° C, - At least one substance selected from oils and fragrances, in a total amount of 0-10% by weight and - one or more surfactants in a total amount of 0-0.1% by weight, at least one pigment in a total amount of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-8% by weight, particularly preferably 1-6% by weight, extremely preferably 2-5% by weight, further extraordinarily preferably 3-4% by weight, all quantitative data being based in each case on the weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the alkalizing agent is selected from the group comprising alkanolamines and alkali metal hydroxides and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 2 , characterized in that at least one alkanolamine selected from 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol (AMP), triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (1,1 ', 1''- nitrilotris-2-propanol), tromethamine (2- Amino-2- (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol), tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, 2-aminoethan-1-ol (monoethanolamine), 3-aminopropan-1-ol, 4-aminobutan-1-ol, 5-aminopentan-1 -ol, 1-aminopropan-2-ol, 1-aminobutan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-2-ol, 1-aminopentan-3-ol, 1-aminopentan-4-ol, 3-amino-2-methylpropane -1-ol, 1-amino-2-methylpropan-2-ol, 3-aminopropan-1,2-diol and 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof. Cosmetic composition according to Claim 2 or 3rd , characterized in that at least one alkanolamine selected from 2-amino-2-methylpropan-1-ol, triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine (1,1 ', 1''-Nitrilotris-2-propanol), tromethamine (2-amino-2 - (hydroxymethyl) -1,3-propanediol), tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine, 2-aminoethan-1-ol, and 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol and mixtures thereof, preferably selected from 2-amino-2- methylpropan-1-ol, is included. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 4th , characterized in that at least one substance selected from oils and fragrances is contained in a total amount of 0.05-5% by weight, based on the weight of the cosmetic composition. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 5 , characterized in that at least one color, effect and / or pearlescent pigment is contained as a pigment, which is selected from metal oxides, metal hydroxides, metal oxide hydrates, sulfur-containing silicates, metal sulfides, complex metal cyanides, metal sulfates, bronze pigments, substrate platelets that are a vacuum-metallized Pigments (VMP) include and pearlescent pigments, the pearlescent pigments having a pigment core made of a platelet-shaped material selected from natural mica, synthetic mica and borosilicates, wherein the pigment core can be coated with one or more layers of one or more metal oxides or a metal oxychloride. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 6th , characterized in that it contains no titanium dioxide and no titanium dioxide-containing pigment. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 7th , characterized in that the at least one pigment has an average particle size D ₅₀ , determined by means of dynamic light scattering (DLS), from 1.0 to 50 µm, preferably from 5.0 to 45 µm, preferably from 10 to 40 µm, in particular from 14 to 30 µm. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 8th , characterized in that the crosslinked copolymer, built up from acrylic acid and non-ethoxylated esters of acrylic acid with linear C10-C30 monoalcohols as monomers, is Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer. Cosmetic composition according to one of the Claims 1 - 9 , characterized in that Polyurethane-34 in an amount of 0.03-1% by weight, preferably 0.1-0.7% by weight, particularly preferably 0.25-0.4% by weight, each based on the weight of the cosmetic composition.