DE102019201364A1 - Cosmetic product containing capsules - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic product comprising an aqueous cosmetic preparation containing a) at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract, b) 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of at least one depolymerizing agent from the group EDTA, citric acid and its salts, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains no homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and at least one capsule comprising a shell containing a calcium alginate and a liquid core which is completely from the shell is enclosed, the core having an oil phase.

Description

Cosmetic products generally not only serve to look beautiful and attractive, but also make a decisive contribution to increased self-esteem and the well-being of people. Accordingly, a wide variety of cosmetic products are used for daily cleaning and care of human skin.

The prior art knows various cosmetic preparations for the care of human skin. For example, in WO 2015/169456 A1 discloses cosmetic preparations which have a gel phase in which essentially spherical particles with a size of 0.1 to 10 mm are suspended. The essentially spherical particles can be obtained by adding alginate (algin) to an emulsion and then dropping the emulsion into a solution with calcium ions. The interaction of the alginate and the calcium ions leads to an immediate and complete gelation of the drop. The essentially spherical particles obtained in this way can be removed and suspended in a gel phase. Due to the fact that an emulsion with the emulsifier sodium stearyl glutamate is used to produce the essentially spherical particles, the alginate is completely distributed in the emulsion, so that a complete hardening / gelling of the emulsion is ensured.

An advantage of such cosmetic preparations is that it is possible to incorporate active substances into the solid alginate particles, which might not be stable if they were dissolved in the outer gel phase.

Alginate is one of the most commonly used polymeric encapsulation materials. It is a natural polysaccharide obtained from brown algae and its basic structure consists of linear binary copolymers of 1 → 4 bound β-D-mannuronic acid and α-L-guluronic acid. It can form thermally stable and biocompatible hydrogel beads in the presence of a calcium cation. Ca alginate pearls are widely used to encapsulate microbial cells, enzymes, hormones, medicines, oils, herbal extracts and flavors. Numerous studies have reported the success of using Ca-alginate pearl properties such as size, size variation, shape, mass transport properties, biocompatibility, swellability, solubility, surface morphology and mechanical and chemical stability.

Furthermore, the document is in the prior art US 2015/0044263 A1 known, which discloses a cosmetic product in the form of a two-chamber packaging. The first chamber of the packaging contains capsules based on alginate, which have a shell made of gelled calcium alginate, which surrounds a liquid core. The second chamber contains a cosmetic preparation which, when the capsules and the cosmetic preparation are dispensed at the same time, leads to the capsules being dissolved. Through this process, the liquid contained in the alginate-based capsules is released and can be applied directly.

The capsule shell is dissolved in that the cosmetic preparation in the second chamber comprises ingredients which can complex calcium.

A disadvantage of the cosmetic product US 2015/0044263 A1 is that a two-chamber packaging must always be used, which is correspondingly expensive for the manufacturer. In general, packaging containing only one chamber is significantly cheaper.

Another disadvantage of the cosmetic product US 2015/0044263 A1 is based on the fact that the capsules dissolve immediately upon contact with the cosmetic preparation from the second chamber. It is therefore not possible to store the alginate capsules in the cosmetic preparation.

It is advantageous to store alginate capsules in a cosmetic preparation, so that the capsules and the cosmetic preparation can be released together from a single-chamber packaging. When providing such a cosmetic product, however, the person skilled in the art is faced with a multitude of tasks.

It is often the case that the capsules stored in the preparation are too hard to be easily broken open when removed either by hand or via a removal valve and mixed with the outer cosmetic preparation. Furthermore, alginate capsules, which contain a single liquid oil phase as the core, often bleed out into the outer cosmetic preparation. The bleeding effect occurs either when the capsules are suspended in the external preparation or when stored at 40 ° C. The oil that escapes inevitably leads to a clouding of the external preparation. It is It is particularly desirable to provide softened alginate capsules in which the suspension of the alginate capsules containing a liquid oil phase and / or storage at 40 ° C. does not lead to the described bleeding out of the oil phase from the alginate capsules into the external preparation. It is also desirable if the alginate capsules dissolve without particulate residues when rubbed on the skin.

Surprisingly, it has now been found that such cosmetic products can be provided by the present invention.

1. a) mindestens ein Polymer gewählt aus der Gruppe Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan und Chondrus Chrispus Extract; und
2. b) 0,01 bis 1,5 Gew.-% mindestens ein Depolymerisationsmittel gewählt aus der Gruppe EDTA, Zitronensäure und deren Salze, wobei sich die Angabe auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung bezieht;

dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die kosmetische Zubereitung keine Homo- oder Copolymere von Acrylsäure und/oder Methacrylsäure enthält,
und
mindestens eine Kapsel umfassend eine Hülle enthaltend Calciumalginat und einen flüssigen Kern, der vollständig von der Hülle umschlossen ist, wobei der Kern eine Ölphase aufweist.The present invention relates to a cosmetic product comprising an aqueous cosmetic preparation

1. a) at least one polymer selected from the group Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract; and
2. b) 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of at least one depolymerizing agent selected from the group EDTA, citric acid and their salts, the information relating to the total weight of the preparation;

characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains no homo- or copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid,
and
at least one capsule comprising a shell containing calcium alginate and a liquid core which is completely enclosed by the shell, the core having an oil phase.

If percentages by weight (% by weight) are given without reference to a specific composition or specific mixture, this information always relates to the total weight of the cosmetic preparation. If ratios of components / substances / groups of substances are disclosed, these ratios relate to weight ratios of the components / substances / groups of substances mentioned.

If it is described below that an ingredient in the cosmetic preparation is in a specified proportion, the total weight of the cosmetic preparation always refers to all ingredients with the exception of the capsules. The capsules are not included in the cosmetic preparation. This means that the ingredients of the cosmetic preparation and the capsules are described separately. If it is described that an ingredient is not contained in the cosmetic preparation, this is not limiting for the capsules, which can comprise this ingredient.

If weight percentage ranges are given below for the constituents of the cosmetic preparation, the disclosure of the present application also encompasses all individual values in steps of 0.1% by weight within these weight percentage ranges.

Unless otherwise stated, all tests were carried out under normal conditions. The term “normal conditions” means 20 ° C, 1013 hPa and a relative air humidity of 50%.

Surprisingly, it has been found for the person skilled in the art that, according to the invention, a cosmetic product with particularly soft capsules can be provided, in which the preparation surrounding the capsules is not clouded by the oil contained in the capsule.

According to the invention, the cosmetic preparation according to the invention contains at least one polymer selected from the group consisting of Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract.

Gellan gum (gellan gum) is a water-soluble anionic polysaccharide that is produced by the bacterium Sphingomonas elodea (formerly Pseudomonas elodea). Basically, gellan gum is a linear polysaccharide, with the repeating unit of the polymer being a tetrasaccharide consisting of an L-rhamnose, a D-glucuronic acid and two D-glucose units, which may be esterified with acetic acid and glyceric acid.

Two different chemical structures for gellan gum are known, which differ in the degree of acylation. Gellan gums with a high degree of acylation correspond to formula (II), while Gellan gums with a low degree of acylation correspond to formula (III).

In the formulas (II) and (III), n stands for an integer in the range from 2 to 2000, preferably from 200 to 450.

In the event that the composition according to the invention comprises gellan gum, it is further preferred if the gellan gum has a structure according to formula (III). Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention if the gellan gum according to formula (III) has a molecular weight in the range from 200,000 to 300,000. Such a Gellan gum can be purchased commercially from CP Kelco under the trade name KELCOGEL® CG-LA.

It is advantageous according to the invention if the total proportion of the at least one polymer selected from the group Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract is from 0.1 to 3% by weight, further preferably from 0.25 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

It is particularly preferred if at least xanthan gum and / or locust bean gum are contained. If both xanthan gum and locust bean gum are present, the weight ratio of xanthan gum to locust bean gum is in the range from 2: 1 to 1: 2, preferably from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5 and particularly preferably from 1.2: 1 to 1: 1.2.

It is further preferred in the sense of the present invention if the proportion of the depolymerizing agent b) is from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 0.3% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation , is. The use of sodium citrate as a depolymerization agent is particularly preferred.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that particularly elastic and soft capsules can be provided in the preparations of the invention if the weight ratio of the capsules to the depolymerizing agent selected from the group EDTA, citric acid and their salts is preferably from 150: 1 to 50: 1 is preferably from 100: 1 to 60: 1 and particularly preferably from 85: 1 to 65: 1.

The elasticity of the capsules is understood to mean that the capsules can be compressed to 60% of their diameter with little effort without bursting.

Furthermore, it is also advantageous for the purposes of the present invention if, in addition to the polymers a) according to the invention, sodium hyaluronate is additionally present, the proportion of sodium hyaluronate preferably being from 0.01 to 1% by weight, further preferably from 0.05 to 0%, 7 wt .-% and particularly preferably from 0.2 to 0.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation. If sodium hyaluronate is contained, it is particularly preferred if the sodium hyaluronate has a molecular weight in the range from 30,000 Da to 60,000 Da.

The proportion of water in the aqueous cosmetic preparation is advantageously from 70 to 90% by weight, preferably from 75% by weight to 85% by weight and particularly preferably from 80 to 84% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

It is also advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the aqueous cosmetic preparation contains glycerol, the proportion of glycerol being from 5 to 15% by weight, preferably from 7.5 to 14% by weight. % and particularly preferably 9 to 11% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

It is furthermore advantageous in the sense of the present invention if the cosmetic preparation comprises at least one solubilizer, which is furthermore preferably PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil. If PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is included, it is further preferred if the proportion of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil is from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

Further advantageous preparations are also obtained if antioxidants are used as additives or active ingredients. According to the invention, the preparations advantageously contain one or more antioxidants. All of the antioxidants suitable or customary for cosmetic and / or dermatological applications can be used as inexpensive, but nevertheless optional, antioxidants.

The antioxidants are advantageously selected from group A, consisting of amino acids (e.g. glycine, serine, arginine, glutamine, alanine) and their derivatives, peptides such as carnosine and their derivatives, folic acid and their derivatives, niacinamide, ubiquinone, vitamin C and derivatives ( e.g. ascorbyl palmitate, Na ascorbyl phosphate), tocopherols and derivatives (e.g. alpha-tocopherol and tocopherol acetate), vitamin A and derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), alpha-glucosylrutin, creatine as well as creatinine, panthenol and natural substances such as magnolol and honokiol.

The total amount of the antioxidants, in particular those of the group A antioxidants above, in the preparations is preferably 0.001 to 5% by weight, particularly preferably 0.05 to 2% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the preparation.

Furthermore, preferred embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains no copolymers or homopolymers which are synthesized from vinylpyrrolidone.

Furthermore, advantageous embodiments of the invention are characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains at least one substance which has an octanol / water distribution coefficient (log Kow) of greater than 0 to less than 4, preferably less than 3.5 and particularly preferably less than 3 and no emulsifier or is surfactant.

wobei C_O die Konzentration der jeweiligen Substanz in der Octanol-Phase angibt und C_W die Konzentration der Chemikalie in der Wasserphase. Das heißt log K_OW ist positiv bei lipophilen und negativ bei hydrophilen Substanzen.The log Kow value is derived from the definition $$\text{log}{K}_{OW}=\text{log}{\mathrm{C.}}_0-\text{log}{\mathrm{C.}}_W$$

where C _O indicates the concentration of the respective substance in the octanol phase and C _W the concentration of the chemical in the water phase. That means log K _OW is positive for lipophilic and negative for hydrophilic substances.

According to the invention, the log K _OW value of the substances used is determined according to the Crippen calculation method, which is derived from the publication J. Chem. Inf. Comput. Sci. 1999, 39, 868-873 with the title "Prediction of Physicochemical parameters by atomic contribution" is known.

It is further preferred if the cosmetic preparation has no substance with an octanol / water partition coefficient (log Kow) of greater than 4.5.

The table below shows some of the distribution coefficients (log Kow) calculated using the Crippen method. Table 1: Ingredient lied kow Glycerin -1.668 Propylene glycol -0.641 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol -0.393 2-methylpropane-1,2-diol -0.25 1,2-pentanediol 0.14 1,5-pentanediol 0.141 1,2-hexanediol 0.53 Phenoxyethanol 1,058 Benzyl alcohol 1,179 Vanillin 1,213 Heliotropin 1,228 1,2-octanediol 1.31 cis-3-hexenol 1,335 Aubepin 1.508 Aubepinnitrile 1,567 Ethylhexylglycerol 1,573 Benzyl acetate 1.75 2-phenylethyl acetate 1,792 Coumarin 1,793 Phenyl acetaldehyde dimethyl acetal 1,848 Dimethylbenzylcarbinol 2nd 1,2-decanediol 2.09 Eugenol 2,129 Hydroxycitronellal 2,153 Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate 2,265 Styrallyl acetate 2,311 Octanol 2,339 Nopol 2,361 Ethylhexyl glycerin 2.4 Linalool 2.67 Geraniol 2,671 Methyl dihydrojasmonth 2,725 Amyl salicylate 2,739 Benzyl salicylate 2,749 Dihydromyrcenol 2.75 Citronellol 2,751 4- (4-hydroxy-4-methylpentyl) -3-cyclohexenecarbaldehyde 2,853 9-decenol-1 2,895 Nopylacetate 2,932 Tetrahydrolinalool 2,974 Tetrahydromyrcenol 2,974 Isononylacetate 3,012 Benzyl benzoate 3,044 Terpinylacetate 3,075 3- (p-tert-butylphenyl) propanal 3.116 p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate 3,154 Geranonitrile 3,203 Geranyl acetate 3,242 Citronellonitrile 3,283 Citronelly acetate 3,322 n-decanal 3,326 Diphenyl oxide 3,479 Ions 3,609 Trichloromethylphenylcarbinylacetate 3,661 2-n-heptylcyclopentanone 3,716 Isolongifolanon 3,738 Vetiverol 3.84 Linalyl acetate 3,855 Methyl ionones 3,904 Isomethyl ionones 3,904 Cedrylacetate 4,181 Bisabolol 4.23 alpha-hexylcinammic aldehydes 4,239 Myristyl alcohol 4.68 Cetyl alcohol 5.46 Isopropyl myristate 5,639 Octyldodecanol 6,876 Cetyl palmitate 11,492 Tristearin 18.769

It is particularly preferred if the cosmetic preparation contains phenoxyethanol.

It is further preferred if the cosmetic preparation contains 1,2-hexanediol.

Furthermore, advantageous cosmetic preparations of the invention are characterized in that they contain methylpropanediol in a proportion of 1 to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation.

The weight ratio between the cosmetic preparation according to the invention and the capsules according to the invention is advantageously from 95: 5 to 75:25, preferably from 90:10 to 80:20 and particularly preferably from 88:12 to 82:18.

The capsules according to the invention have a shell containing a calcium alginate and a liquid core which is completely enclosed by the shell, the core having an oil phase. Accordingly, preferred capsules contain at least one liquid oil. The capsules of the invention contain only a single core.

Capsules of this type can advantageously be obtained according to the invention by means of coextrusion from a dual nozzle. In this method, the feed line to the nozzle has an inner tube which is located within an outer tube. Accordingly, the subsequent oil phase of the capsules is pumped through the inner tube and the aqueous tube containing sodium alginate through the outer tube. At the The nozzle ends of both feed pipes, so that the composition of the inner pipe is surrounded by the composition of the outer pipe when dispensing.

Various methods are known which enable drop-shaped dispensing. For example, the formation of drops can include vibrations or the passage of a gas or steam flow near the nozzle. When the drops are formed, it should be ensured that the oil phase in the drop is completely surrounded by the composition containing sodium alginate. A possible method is, for example, in US 9259030 B2 described. There, a permanent force is applied to the nozzles via defined frequencies and amplitudes, which means that a drop as described above is formed from the liquid jet.

When entering an aqueous hardening medium which contains polyvalent metal ions, in particular calcium ions, the outer phase of the drop gels, so that spherical capsules with an inner oil phase form. The capsules thus obtained are advantageously added to the cosmetic product according to the invention by suspending the capsules in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention.

Without being bound by theory, it is assumed that the interaction of the depolymerizing agent with the polymers according to the invention in the preparation leads to softer capsules being obtained without the oil phase of the capsules escaping into the cosmetic preparation.

The oil phase of the capsules according to the invention advantageously contains octyldodecanol as oil. Further preferred oils are selected from the group dicaprylyl ether, caprylic / capric triglycerides, dimeticone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate; 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, octyl cocoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate and squalane. It is also advantageous if the oil phase of the capsules contains at least one vegetable oil, such as argan oil, apricot oil, sunflower oil, evening primrose oil, olive oil, almond oil and / or jojoba oil. It is also advantageous if the oil phase of the capsules contains dyes and / or mica. In this way, visually appealing capsules can be obtained.

The capsules of the present invention may advantageously have at least one oil-soluble UV filter. In this context, oil-soluble means that no two phases form within the core of the capsules when the UV filter is added.

• • Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure und ihre Salze, besonders die entsprechenden Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salze, insbesondere das Phenylen-1,4-bis-(2-benzimidazyl)-3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonsäure-bis-natriumsalz mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Bisimidazylate (CAS-Nr.: 180898-37-7), welches beispielsweise unter der Handelsbezeichnung Neo Heliopan AP bei Haarmann & Reimer erhältlich ist;
• • 1,4-di(2-oxo-10-Sulfo-3-bornylidenmethyl)-Benzol (auch: 3,3'-(1,4-Phenylendimethylene)-bis-(7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo-[2.2.1]hept-1-ylmethan Sulfonsäure) und dessen Salze (besonders die entprechenden 10-Sulfato-verbindungen, insbesondere das entsprechende Natrium-, Kalium- oder Triethanolammonium-Salz), das auch als Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) bezeichnet wird. Benzol-1,4-di(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl-10-sulfonsäure) hat die INCI-Bezeichnung Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonsäure (CAS.-Nr.: 90457-82-2) und ist beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Mexoryl SX von der Fa. Chimex erhältlich;

The preparation of the present invention may also include UV filters, which are water-soluble. Advantageous water-soluble UV filter substances are sulfonated, such as. B .:

• • Phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and its salts, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salts, especially the phenylene-1,4 -bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name bisimidazylate (CAS no .: 180898-37-7), which, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP is available from Haarmann &Reimer;
• 1,4-di (2-oxo-10-sulfo-3-bornylidenemethyl) benzene (also: 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis- (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept-1-ylmethane sulfonic acid) and its salts (especially the corresponding 10-sulfato compounds, especially the corresponding sodium, potassium or triethanolammonium salt), which is also called benzene-1,4- di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) Benzene-1,4-di (2-oxo-3-bornylidenemethyl-10-sulfonic acid) has the INCI name Terephtalidene Dicampher Sulfonic Acid (CAS no .: 90457-82-2) and is available, for example, under the trade name Mexoryl SX from Chimex;

• • 2,4-Bis-{[4-(2-Ethyl-hexyloxy)-2-hydroxy]-phenyl}-6-(4-methoxyphenyl)-1,3,5-triazin (INCI: Aniso Triazin), welches unter der Handelsbezeichnung Tinosorb® S bei der CIBA-Chemikalien GmbH erhältlich ist.

More than further advantageous UV filters are known to those skilled in the art as triazine derivatives, such as. B.

• • 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-Ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Aniso Triazine), which is available under the trade name Tinosorb® S from CIBA-Chemicals GmbH.

Further advantageous UV filters are selected from the group homomenthyl salicylate (INCI: homosalate), 2-ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylate (INCI: octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl-2-hydroxybenzoate (2-ethylhexyl salicylate, octyl salicylate, INCI: octyl salicylate) and esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester (2-ethylhexyl-4-methoxycinnamate, INCI: octyl methoxycinnamate).

Further advantageous UV filters which are advantageously contained in the capsules according to the invention are dibenzoyl methane derivatives, in particular 4- (tert-butyl) -4'-methoxydidibenzzoylmethane (CAS no. 70356-09-1), which is sold by Givaudan under the Parsol® 1789 brand and by Merck under the trade name Eusolex® 9020.

The capsules of the present invention advantageously have an average diameter in the range from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, preferably 0.5 mm to 5 mm and in particular 0.8 mm to 4 mm. The average diameter is determined according to the invention for a population of at least 20 capsules, the maximum measurable diameter being determined individually for each capsule. The mean value is formed from the values obtained. The measurement is carried out by taking pictures with a light microscope with the help of image analysis software, which makes it possible to determine distances using a scaling. Alternatively, the capsules can be measured in isolation using a caliper.

The capsules of the present invention can be suspended particularly easily in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention. For this purpose, a conventional stirrer can be used, among other things, the stirrer and the rotations being selected such that the capsules do not tear when suspended.

The cosmetic preparation advantageously has a viscosity of less than 10000 mPa · s, furthermore preferably less than 5000 mPa · s, further preferably less than 4000 mPa · s and particularly preferably less than 3500 mPa · s. It is furthermore advantageous if the cosmetic preparation has a viscosity of at least 500 mPa · s, preferably at least 1500 mPa · s, further preferably at least 2000 mPa · s and particularly preferably at least 2300 mPa · s. Accordingly, the viscosity of the cosmetic preparation is advantageously 500 to 10,000 mPa · s, preferably 1500 to 5000 mPa · s, further preferably 2000 to 4000 mPa · s and particularly preferably 2300 mPa · s to 3500 mPa · s.

If viscosity values are given in this disclosure, all values relate to a measurement at 25 ° C. in a 150 ml wide-mouth bottle (VWR no .: 807-001) using Rheomat R 123 from proRheo. The Rheomat R 123 from proRheo GmbH is a rotary viscometer, ie a measuring body rotates in the substance to be measured. The force that is required to rotate the measuring body in the sample at a predetermined speed is measured. The viscosity is calculated from this torque, the speed of the measuring body and the geometric dimensions of the measuring system used. The measuring body No. 1 (article no. 200 0191), suitable for a viscosity range up to 10,000 [mPa · s], speed range 62.5 min ^-1 , is used. If no other information is given, the viscosity measurement is always carried out 24 hours after preparation of the preparation.

The cosmetic preparation according to the invention can also contain further cosmetic auxiliaries and active substances, as are usually used in such preparations, for. B. other active ingredients, preservatives, preservation aids, bactericides, dyes and color pigments, thickeners, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances or other usual components of a cosmetic or dermatological formulation such as other polyols, foam stabilizers, organic solvents or silicone derivatives, provided that the additive has the required properties with regard do not affect stability or are excluded.

Comparative tests and examples

The following examples are intended to illustrate the present invention without restricting it. Unless otherwise stated, all quantities, parts and percentages are based on the weight and the total amount or on the total weight of the preparations.

• Zunächst wurden eine Ölphase und eine Alginatlösung bereitgestellt. Die nachfolgende Tabelle gibt die Anteile der Inhaltstoffe beider Lösungen an, wobei sich die Gew.-% Angaben auf das Gesamtgewicht beider Lösungen beziehen, so dass die Gewichtsverhältnisse beider Lösungen zueinander direkt berücksichtigt sind:

Lösung Inhaltstoffe Anteil in Gew.-% Ölphase Octyldodecanol 21,06 Dicaprylyl Carbonate 10,53 Ethylhexyl Stearate 10,53 Cetearyl Isoonanoate 9,53 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil 0,85 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 0,28 Tocopherol 0,28 Perfume 1,42 Mica 0,04 Cl 77491 0,01 Cl 77891 0,06 Alginatlösung Aqua 42,26 Sodium Alginate 0,43 Methylpropanediol 1,85 1,2-Hexandiol 0,43 Phenoxyethanol 0,43 Zusätzlich wurde eine wässrige Calciumlösung enthaltend 2 Gew.-% Calciumchlorid bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Lösung bereitgestellt.The capsules according to the invention were produced as follows:

• First, an oil phase and an alginate solution were provided. The table below gives the proportions of the ingredients of both solutions, the percentages by weight relating to the total weight of both solutions, so that the weight ratios of the two solutions to one another are taken into account directly:

solution Ingredients Share in% by weight Oil phase Octyldodecanol 21.06 Dicaprylyl carbonates 10.53 Ethylhexyl stearate 10.53 Cetearyl isoonanoate 9.53 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil 0.85 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 0.28 Tocopherol 0.28 Perfume 1.42 Mica 0.04 Cl 77491 0.01 Cl 77891 0.06 Alginate solution Aqua 42.26 Sodium alginate 0.43 Methyl propanediol 1.85 1,2-hexanediol 0.43 Phenoxyethanol 0.43 In addition, an aqueous calcium solution containing 2% by weight of calcium chloride based on the total weight of the solution was provided.

The capsules according to the invention were produced using a spherizer M from Brace GmbH. The device used works via a so-called vibration nozzle technology.

To produce the capsules, the oil phase was pressed through the inner or core nozzle (0.6 mm diameter) with a pressure of 135 mbar of the spherizer. The alginate solution was pressed through the spheriser's outer or scarf-forming nozzle, which had a diameter of 1.4 mm. The pressure set for the outer nozzle was 150 mbar. The vibration frequency of the spherizer was set to 75 Hz with an amplitude for the vibrations of 1900 mV. The drops produced in this process, having a core with the oil phase and an outer liquid shell made of alginate solution, were dropped into the calcium chloride solution. After about 3 minutes, the spherical capsules obtained were removed from the calcium chloride solution using a suitable sieve and washed with deionized water. After washing, the capsules obtained were placed in a transport solution. The weight ratio of the capsules to the transport solution is 70:30.

The capsules obtained have an average diameter of 2.7 mm. The average core diameter is 2.3 mm. The shell comprising calcium alginate and the core is formed from the ingredients of the oil phase. The capsules obtained in this way are referred to below as OP1.

The transport solution includes the following ingredients based on the total weight of the transport solution: solution Ingredients Share in% by weight Transport solution Aqua 94 Methyl propanediol 4th 1,2-hexanediol 1 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 Calcium chloride 0.2

The preparations of Examples 1 * to 4 * and Comp. 1 * to Comp. 3 * were then provided in accordance with the tables below. The preparations were prepared by mixing phase A at 85 ° C. and adding phase B with stirring. After cooling to 50 ° C., phase C was added with stirring. Phase D was finally added at 40 ° C. with stirring.

In all of the preparations of Examples 1 * to 4 * and Comp. 1 * to Comp. 3 *, the amount of substances in phase B was chosen so that the viscosity was comparable for all preparations. It was 2500 to 3000 mPa · s for all preparations, measured with the Rheomat R123 according to the information described above. In this way it was possible to ensure that, with the same incorporation (peripheral speed and stirring time) of the capsules, comparable energy was introduced into the preparation. Any destruction of the pearls that may occur cannot be attributed to a different shear stress due to different viscosity of the gels, but must be justified by the different ingredients. ingredients Example 1 * Example 2 * Example 3 * Ex. 4 * Phase A Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Glycerin 10.1 10.1 10.1 10.1 Sodium citrate 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phase B Locust Bean Gum 0.3 1.85 Xanthan gum 0.3 0.85 Gellan Gum (according to formula (III)) 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.4 Chondrus chrispus extract 0.85 Phase C Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 Phase D Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 1 ingredients Compare 1 * Compare 2 * Compare 3 * Phase A Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Glycerin 10.1 10.1 10.1 Sodium citrate 0.25 0.25 0.25 Phase B C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.65 Carbomer 1 Acrylic Acid / VP Crosspolymer 1 Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer 0.1 PVM / MA copolymer 0.02 Phase C Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.6 0.6 0.6 Phase D Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1

The transport solution with the capsules suspended therein was added to the preparations of Examples 1 * to 4 * as well as Comp. 1 * to Comp. 3 *, the weight ratio of the transport solution containing the capsules to the respective preparations of Example 1 * to Example 4 * as well as 1 * to 3 * 21.43: 78.57.

For the mixture, the transport solution containing the capsules was placed in a container and the respective preparation was added. Mixing was carried out with an IKA Magic Plant at a speed of 40 rpm for 60s clockwise and then in the same way counterclockwise. A commercially available spiral stirrer was used. The mixtures obtained were then passed through a Ball valve removed from the bottom of the stirrer. Depending on the ingredients, different degrees of turbidity were perceived when the preparations were dispensed.

The preparations obtained are described with the designation Ex.1 to Ex.4 and Comp. 1 to Comp.3. The weight ratio of the cosmetic preparation according to the invention to the capsules is therefore 85:15.

The example preparation obtained, for example 1 to example 4, are cosmetic preparations according to the invention, while comparison 1 to comparison 3 represent comparative examples.

For better orientation, the respective overall composition of the preparations Example 1 to Example 4 and Compare 1 to Comparison 3 is given again below. The determined degrees of turbidity were assessed by experts: ingredients Example 1 Example 2 Ex. 3 Ex. 4 Aqua 83.035 82.345 83,265 83,265 Glycerin 9.34 9.34 9.34 9.34 Sodium citrate 0.24 0.24 0.24 0.24 Locust Bean Gum 0.28 1.71 Xanthan gum 0.28 0.79 Gellan Gum (according to formula (III)) 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.36 Chondrus chrispus extract 0.79 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Calcium chloride 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 1 Weight ratio of preparation to capsules 85:15 85:15 85:15 85:15 Turbidity after manufacture No cloudiness No cloudiness No cloudiness No cloudiness Turbidity after 6 months storage at 40 ° C No cloudiness No cloudiness No cloudiness No cloudiness ingredients See 1 See 2 See 3 Aqua 83.455 83.135 83.105 Glycerin 9.34 9.34 9.34 Sodium citrate 0.24 0.24 0.24 C10-30 alkyl acrylate cross polymer 0.6 Carbomer 0.92 Acrylic Acid / VP Crosspolymer 0.92 Glyceryl Acrylate / Acrylic Acid Copolymer 0.01 PVM / MA copolymer 0.02 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 Calcium chloride 0.015 0.015 0.015 Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 Weight ratio of preparation to capsules 85:15 85:15 85:15 Turbidity after manufacture Severe cloudiness Severe cloudiness Severe cloudiness Turbidity after 6 months storage at 40 ° C As it is cloudy during production, no assessment is possible As it is cloudy during production, no assessment is possible As it is cloudy during production, no assessment is possible

An analysis of the examples Cf. 1 to Cf. 3 showed that this preparation contained oil components from the capsules. The cosmetic preparations according to the example formulations Example 1 to Example 4 showed no oil components from the capsules. This prevented the capsule's oil phase from escaping.

A comparison of the capsules before and after storage (6 months, 40 ° C.) in the cosmetic preparation according to the invention (Example 1 to Example 4) showed that by introducing the capsules into the cosmetic preparation, the capsules became significantly softer without however, to burst open already in the cosmetic preparation.

The following comparison test is intended to illustrate this statement further. The cosmetic products listed below were manufactured for this purpose. The production was carried out analogously to Ex.1 to Ex.3. The capsules used were also produced as described above. ingredients Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 See 4 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Glycerin 9.34 9.34 9.34 9.34 Sodium citrate 0.09 0.24 0.37 Locust Bean Gum 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 Xanthan gum 0.28 0.28 0.28 0.28 Gellan Gum (according to formula (III)) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.36 0.36 0.36 0.36 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Calcium chloride 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 1 Weight ratio of preparation to capsules 85:15 85:15 85:15 85:15 Weight ratio of capsules to depolymerizing agent 197: 1 73: 1 47: 1 -

24 hours after suspension of the capsules in the preparations of Example Ex.5 to Example 7 and the comparative example Cf. 4 not according to the invention, the capsules were removed from the preparations without destruction and cleaned with deionized water. Storage after manufacture was carried out under normal conditions.

Subsequently, one capsule from each cosmetic product was analyzed with a texture analyzer (TA.XT plus texture analyzer (Stable Micro Systems)), which was configured via two plastic plates so that the capsules were compressed along an axis of the capsules. For this purpose, one capsule was placed between the plastic plates and the distance between the plastic plates was reduced from 3 mm to 1.8 mm. The speed was chosen so that the distance was reduced by 0.01 mm / s. As a result of this process, the capsule was compressed along an axis. At the same time, the force that was required to compress the capsule in this way was measured.

It was found that the capsules of the cosmetic product Example 6 can be easily compressed and do not burst in the process. The capsules are therefore considered to be particularly soft. The capsules from Ex. 5 showed no difference in the amount of force that had to be used for compression in comparison to Comp. 4. In example 7, compression was not possible because the capsules burst immediately. So no force was measurable here.

shows a plot of the maximum force to be applied in N to compress the capsules in the manner described. The capsules from Example 7 burst immediately, so that no force can be measured.

Further cosmetic products according to the invention are shown in the tables below.

For this purpose, in addition to the capsules OP1 used previously, capsules OP2 to OP4 were produced. The manufacture and further processing with the transport solution was carried out analogously to the description above. The oil phase and alginate phase of the capsules OP2 to OP4 are composed as follows: OP2 OP3 OP4 solution Ingredients Share in% by weight Share in% by weight Share in% by weight Oil phase Octyldodecanol 21.06 20 15 Dicaprylyl carbonates 9.53 10.54 10.53 Ethylhexyl stearate 8.54 10.53 10.55 Cetearyl isoonanoate 8.53 7.48 8.52 Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil 0.85 3.19 Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil 0.28 0.28 Tocopherol 0.28 0.28 0.28 Perfume 1.42 1.42 1.42 Mica 0.04 0.04 Cl 77491 0.01 0.01 0.01 Cl 77891 0.06 0.06 0.06 Octocrylene 3rd 3rd 4th Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane 1 0.5 Bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine 1 0.5 Alginate solution Aqua 42.26 42.26 42.26 Sodium alginate 0.43 0.43 0.43 Methyl propanediol 1.85 1.85 1.85 1,2-hexanediol 0.43 0.43 0.43 Phenoxyethanol 0.43 0.43 0.43

The capsules OP1 to OP4 described above were incorporated into the following preparations: ingredients Example 8 Ex. 9 Example 10 Ex. 11 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Glycerin 9.34 9.34 9.34 9.34 Sodium citrate 0.2 0.3 0.22 0.28 Locust Bean Gum 0.2 0.56 Xanthan gum 0.36 0.4 0.2 0.4 Gellan Gum (according to formula (III)) 0.05 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.36 0.1 Chondrus chrispus extract 0.33 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Calcium chloride 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 1 ingredients Ex. 12 Ex. 13 Ex. 14 Ex. 15 Aqua Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Ad 100 Glycerin 9.34 9.34 9.34 9.34 Trisodium EDTA 0.19 0.25 0.30 0.33 Locust Bean Gum 0.2 0.56 Xanthan gum 0.36 0.4 0.2 0.4 Gellan Gum (according to formula (III)) 0.05 0.1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.36 0.1 Chondrus chrispus extract 0.33 0.1 Phenoxyethanol 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 0.55 0.55 0.55 0.55 Calcium chloride 0.015 0.015 0.015 0.015 Methyl propanediol 4th 4th 4th 4th 1,2 hexanediol 1 1 1 1 Creatine 0.1 Panthenol 0.5 Ascorbyl phosphate 0.1 Octanediol 0.2

The weight ratios of the cosmetic preparations to the capsules are given in the table below: Capsules preparation OP1 OP2 OP3 OP4 Example 8 80:20 84:16 89:11 83:17 Ex. 9 82:18 80:20 84:16 89:11 Example 10 95: 5 82:18 80:20 84:16 Ex. 11 83:17 95: 5 82:18 80:20 Ex. 12 91: 9 83:17 80:20 82:18 Ex. 13 87:13 80:20 82:18 95: 5 Ex. 14 80:20 82:18 95: 5 83:17 Ex. 15 82:18 95: 5 82:18 89:11 Example 8 95: 5 83:17 83:17 87:13 Ex. 9 95: 5 87:13 89:11 87:13 Example 10 89:11 89:11 87:13 82:18 Ex. 11 89:11 91: 9 95: 5 84:16 Ex. 12 84:16 84:16 84:16 95: 5 Ex. 13 89:11 84:16 87:13 84:16 Ex. 14 84:16 89:11 83:17 91: 9 Ex. 15 80:20 83:17 91: 9 82:18

The production of the capsules and their proportion for storage in the transport solution have been adjusted accordingly. In these examples too, the capsules had an average diameter of 2.7 mm.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list of documents listed by the applicant has been generated automatically and is only included for the better information of the reader. The list is not part of the German patent or utility model application. The DPMA assumes no liability for any errors or omissions.

Patent literature cited

• WO 2015/169456 A1 [0002]
• US 2015/0044263 A1 [0005, 0007, 0008]
• US 9259030 B2 [0047]

Claims (15)

Cosmetic product comprising an aqueous cosmetic preparation containing a) at least one polymer selected from the group Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract; and b) 0.01 to 1.5% by weight of at least one depolymerizing agent selected from the group EDTA, citric acid and their salts, the information relating to the total weight of the preparation, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation is not homo- or Contains copolymers of acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid, and at least one capsule comprising a shell containing calcium alginate and a liquid core which is completely enclosed by the shell, the core having an oil phase. Cosmetic product after Claim 1 characterized in that the total proportion of the at least one polymer selected from the group Locust Bean Gum, Xanthan Gum, Gellan Gum, Carrageenan and Chondrus Chrispus Extract from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, further preferably from 0.25 to 2 wt. -% and particularly preferably from 0.4 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains at least xanthan gum and / or locust bean gum. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains both xanthan gum and locust bean gum and the proportion of xanthan gum to locust bean gum preferably from 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the proportion of the depolymerizing agent b) from 0.05 to 0.5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 0.3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation , is. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of the capsules to the depolymerizing agent is from 150: 1 to 50: 1, preferably from 100: 1 to 60: 1 and particularly preferably from 85: 1 to 65: 1. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains sodium hyaluronate, the proportion of sodium hyaluronate preferably from 0.01 to 1% by weight, further preferably 0.05 to 0.7% by weight and is particularly preferably from 0.2 to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and the proportion of PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil from 0.1 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total weight of the cosmetic preparation is. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the cosmetic preparation and the capsules is from 95: 5 to 75:25, preferably from 90:10 to 80:20 and particularly preferably from 88:12 to 82:18 . Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the capsules contain at least one liquid oil. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the capsules contain at least one oil-soluble UV filter. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the capsules one or more oils selected from the group octyldodecanol, dicaprylyl ether, caprylic / capric triglyceride, dimeticone, C12-15 alkyl benzoate and dicaprylyl carbonate; Contain 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, octyl cocoate, cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, squalane, and vegetable oil. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the capsules have an average diameter in the range from 0.1 mm to 10 mm, preferably 0.5 mm to 5 mm and in particular 0.8 mm to 4 mm. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation contains no co- or homopolymers, which are synthesized from vinyl pyrrolidone. Cosmetic product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetic preparation has a viscosity at 25 ° C of 500 to 10000 mPa · s, preferably 1500 to 5000 mPa · s, further preferably 2000 to 4000 mPa · s and particularly preferably 2300 mPa · s s to 3500 mPa · s.

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