DE102008063280A1 - Waving agent with aloe vera - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to corrugating agents which contain, in addition to at least one keratin-reducing compound, an active substance from a plant of the genus Aloe and a protein hydrolyzate; a packaging unit comprising the corrugating agent, as well as a method for permanent hair deformation, in which the active substance combination of the corrugating agent according to the invention finds application.

Description

The The invention relates to corrugating means, in addition to at least one keratin-reducing Compound, an active ingredient from a plant of the genus Aloe and contain a protein hydrolyzate; a packaging unit that the Corrugating means, as well as a method for permanent hair deformation, in which the active ingredient combination according to the invention of the waving agent applies.

The permanent deformation of keratin fibers usually becomes done so that the fiber is mechanically deformed and determines the deformation by suitable means. Before and / or After this deformation, the fiber is treated with the aqueous Preparation of a keratin-reducing substance and rinses after exposure to water or an aqueous solution Solution. In a second step you then treat the Fiber with the aqueous preparation of an oxidizing agent. After an exposure time, this is also rinsed out and the fiber from the mechanical deformation aids (winder, Papilloten) freed.

The aqueous preparation of the keratin-reducing substance is usually alkaline, so on the one hand a sufficient proportion of the thiol functions deprotonated and on the other hand, the fiber swells and in this way deep penetration of the keratin-reducing substance into the fiber is possible. The keratin-reducing substance splits some of the disulfide bonds of keratin to -SH groups, so that it leads to a relaxation of peptide crosslinking and as a result of Tension of the fiber through the mechanical deformation to a reorientation of the Keratinge. Under the influence of the oxidizing agent Again disulfide bonds are linked, and on this Way, the Keratinefüge in the given deformation fixed again. One known such method is the permanent wave treatment of human Hair dar. This can both for the creation of curls and waves in straight hair as well as for smoothing crimped Hair are applied.

A negative concomitant of the permanent wave thus carried out Hair is often embrittled and dull the hair, which is expressed in that Hair feels dry. This accompaniment means in the worst case permanent damage to the hair fiber, which can lead to hair breakage or hair splitting. Furthermore, can in sensitive individuals by the keratin-reducing compounds Irritations of the scalp are induced.

It has not lacked attempts in the past, Wellmittel to formulate, which spare the structure of the hair fiber, mild to the scalp and provide an excellent wave result.

It the task was to make a corrugator for the permanent To provide deformation of keratinous fibers, according to which Application the mentioned unwanted side effects of Keratinreduzierenden substances reduced or completely excluded become. At the same time a very good wave effect is achieved and the scalp irritation be reduced.

Surprisingly was found to damage the hair fiber structure by the addition of preparations derived from plants of the genus Aloes are obtained, as well as protein hydrolysates is minimized. The hairs feel particular after the treatment less dry and in a better condition. It was also found that this effect also after a repeated perming treatment of the hair is maintained.

• (i) mindestens einer keratinreduzierenden Verbindung,
• (ii) mindestens eine Zubereitung, die aus die aus einer Pflanze der Gattung Aloe gewonnen wird und mindestens einen für diese Pflanzengattung charakteristischen Wirkstoff enthält, und
• (iii) mindestens ein Proteinhydrolysat.

A first subject of the invention is therefore a corrugating agent containing in a cosmetic carrier a combination of

• (i) at least one keratin-reducing compound,
• (ii) at least one preparation obtained from a plant of the genus Aloe containing at least one active substance characteristic of that genus, and
• (iii) at least one protein hydrolyzate.

• – Mercaptanen mit mindestens einer Gruppe-SH und
• – Sulfit-Verbindungen.

As the first active ingredient essential to the invention, the corrugating agents contain at least one keratin-reducing compound. The keratin-reducing compounds are preferably selected from at least one member of the group that is formed

• Mercaptans with at least one group SH and
• - sulfite compounds.

Preferred sulfite compounds are selected from at least one member of the group which is formed from sulfites, hydrogen sulfites or disulfites. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the disulfites are sodium disulfite (Na ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), potassium disulfite (K ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ), and magnesium disulfite and ammonium disulfite ((NH ₄ ) ₂ S ₂ O ₅ ). Ammonium disulfite may be preferred according to the invention. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of hydrogen sulfites are hydrogen sulfites as alkali metal, magnesium, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine.

Ammonium hydrogen sulfite may be a particularly preferred hydrogen sulfite. Examples of keratin-reducing compounds of the sulfites are sulfites as alkali metal, ammonium or alkanolammonium salt based on a C ₂ -C ₄ mono-, di- or trialkanolamine. Ammonium sulfite is preferred.

preferred Keratinreduzierende compounds of the group of mercaptans are Thioacids, that is, compounds which (i) at least a group SH and (ii) at least one sulfonic acid or Sulfonate group or carboxyl group or carboxylate carry. Again, those thioacids are preferred which are (i) at least one group SH, (ii) at least one carboxyl group or Carboxylate group and (iii) at least one hydroxy group and / or Wear amino group. Particularly preferred representatives of thioacids are thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, thiomalic acid, Cysteine, mercaptoethanesulfonic acid and the salts and esters the aforementioned thioacids.

When second constituent essential to the invention contain the inventive Waving agent at least one preparation obtained from a plant of Genus Aloe is obtained, and at least one for this plant genus contains characteristic active ingredient.

in principle can all according to the invention in nature occurring plants belonging to the genus Aloe, be used. In the literature are currently over 300 different plant species described. As preferred species may include aloe mutabilis, aloe melanocantha, aloe manchii, Aloe pearsonii, aloe comptonii, aloe mitriformis, aloe distans, Aloe arenicola, aloe volkensii, aloe petrophylla, aloe ferox, aloe africana, aloe globiligemma, aloe perry, aloe visckensii, aloe vera, Aloe lettyae, aloe capensis, aloe barbadensis, aloe socetriis, aloe curacao, aloe candelabrum, aloe excelsa, aloe cameronii, aloe sessiliflora, Aloe reitzii, aloe aculeate, aloe marlothii, aloe utyhei sensis, Aloe dolomitica, aloe castanea, aloe vanlabemii, aloe alooides, Aloe gerstueri and aloe petricola are called.

Particularly according to the invention preferred are preparations made from aloe capensis or aloe barbadensis be won. Very particular according to the invention preferred are preparations made from aloe barbadensis, the so-called Real aloe or even aloe vera, to be won.

Regarding the nature of the preparation (ii) according to the invention in principle, there are no restrictions. So can both the leaves and the flowers and seeds the aloe plants serve as the basis for this preparation. Particularly preferred according to the invention Preparations made from the leaves of aloe plants be won.

Also in terms of the way in which the invention Preparation is derived from the plant constituents consist in principle no restrictions. So, for example the gel contained in the plants used directly in the mold in which it occurs in violation of aloe leaves.

It but can also be used preparations that by means of mechanical and / or chemical techniques derived from the plant become. For this purpose, the plant components in an optional first step are mechanically crushed. As examples of mechanical comminuting methods is for example cutting, Purée and crushing called.

in the second essential step, the preparations can then in a first embodiment by means of mechanical separation methods be extracted from the plant components that are based on the exploitation of mechanical forces, such as gravity, centrifugal force, Pressure or vacuum. These include, for example Decanting, filtration, sedimentation, ultrafiltration and centrifuging.

In a further embodiment of the present invention, preparations are used which are obtained from the plant constituents by means of chemical separation methods, for example an extraction or a chromatographic method. In the context of this embodiment, extracts are particularly preferred. As extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts water, alcohols and mixtures thereof can be used. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, so probably as sole extractant as well as in admixture with water, preferred. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol have proven to be particularly suitable. It has proven to be particularly suitable if these extractants are used in a ratio of 1:10 to 10: 1.

Farther it may be preferred according to the invention, extracts use that at least partially decolorized before use were. This can be done for example by using activated carbon.

The Effectiveness of an extract of aloe can be immediate attributed to its characteristic composition of ingredients. This composition may be in parts by weight and ingredients depending on the type of aloe, according to growth conditions, after used Part of the plant and its production process. A preparation containing at least one characteristic of this plant genus Contains active ingredient, in addition to water, an optionally organic solvent used in the extraction, Vitamins and vitamin precursors, essential oils, Minerals and trace elements included.

Among these characteristic active ingredients are in particular mono- and polysaccharides, as the main constituent aloein (barbaloin) and also in a lesser amount of emodin (1,3,8-trihydroxy-6-methylanthraquinone), aloe-emodin (1,8-dihydroxy-) 3- (hydroxymethyl) anthraquinone) and its glycosidic derivatives (so-called Glyco-Aloeemodine-Anthorne), nataloine, homonataloine, isobarbaloin, aloesin and thereof derived by glycosidic linkages Aloeinoside (A and B), chrysophanol (1,8-dihydroxy-3 -methyl-anthraquinone) and special resins. A compilation of the most important aloe ingredients is for example in Current Organic Chemistry 2000, 4 (10), pp. 1055-1078 (24) by E. Dagne et al. to find.

Aloein (1,8-Dihydroxy-3-hydroxymethyl-10-(β)-D-(glucopyranosyl)anthron).The main constituent of the characteristic active ingredients of an Aloe extract is Aloein (also Aloin, Aloein A or Barbaloin), a Anthrachinonglycosid with the following structure:

Aloe (1,8-Dihydroxy-3-hydroxymethyl-10- (β) -D- (glucopyranosyl) anthrone).

When Monosaccharides are usually arabinose, galactose, glucose, Mannose and xylose in the extract, as polysaccharide ingredients at least one glucomannan, and of further importance are β-linked Mannose polymers such as acemannan (β-1,4-acetylated mannan).

According to the invention preferred effective extracts of aloe vera therefore contain at least aloe.

Particularly according to the invention preferred extracts of aloe vera can be obtained by extraction from stems and / or leaves of aloe barbadensis with a mixture obtained from water and propylene glycol as extractant.

Especially preferred corrugating means are characterized in that the means the effective extract of aloe barbadensis in a proportion of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0.2-1 wt%, and more preferably from 0.3 to 0.9 wt%, respectively based on the total weight of the ready-to-use agent. It is particularly advantageous if the extract used an active substance content of 1 to 10 wt .-%, preferably of 2 to 4 wt .-% has.

When third constituent essential to the invention contain the inventive Waving agent at least one protein hydrolyzate. Regarding the kind and the origin of the protein hydrolyzate according to the invention initially no restrictions.

• – tierischen Ursprungs, beispielsweise aus Collagen, Milch oder Keratin,
• – pflanzlichen Ursprungs, beispielsweise aus Weizen, Mais, Reis, Kartoffeln, Soja oder Mandeln,
• – von marinen Lebensformen abstammen, wie beispielsweise aus Fischcollagen oder Algen, oder
• – von biotechnologisch gewonnenen werden können.

In a particular embodiment of the present invention, protein hydrolysates are used which

• - of animal origin, for example of collagen, milk or keratin,
• - of vegetable origin, for example, wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds,
• - derived from marine life forms, such as fish collagen or algae, or
• - can be obtained from biotechnology.

The Protein hydrolysates can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by a chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by an enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both Hydrolysis types are obtained. Hydrolysis of proteins results usually a protein hydrolyzate with a molecular weight distribution from about 100 daltons to several thousand daltons. Prefers are such protein hydrolysates, their underlying protein content a molecular weight of from 100 up to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 up to 5000 daltons.

in the The present invention also relates to total hydrolysates of proteins proved to be preferred.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be present in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, rice, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Also according to the invention is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are marketed for example under the names Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or Crotein ^® (Croda).

Furthermore, it has proved to be advantageous according to the invention when the protein hydrolysates are used in the form of their cationic derivatives. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or the amino acids of the total hydrolyzate is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. In addition, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those mentioned under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk , Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxyp Ropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyz ed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydro Lyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In The waving agents according to the invention are the protein hydrolysates and their derivatives preferably in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight based on the total mean. Amounts of from 0.1 to 5% by weight, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

In a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the waving agents according to the invention contain at least one NC _6-30 -acylamino acid and / or a derivative thereof, in particular their salts, to increase their activity.

It is preferred according to the invention that agents according to the invention of this embodiment contain at least one NC _6-30 -acylamino acid which is selected from NC _6-30 -acyl-glutamic acid, NC _6-30 -acyl-taurine or from the salts of the abovementioned acids.

The said NC ₃₀ -acylamino acids are derived on the one hand from the corresponding amino acid. On the other hand, the C _6-30 acyl group of said N-acylamino acids is preferably derived from fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, such as coconut fatty acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, caprylic acid and capric acid.

Particularly suitable NC _6-30 acyl amino acids are N-cocoylglutamic acid, N-stearoylglutamic acid or salts of the abovementioned acids.

The According to the invention essential components of the corrugating agent are preferably used in a cosmetic carrier. As cosmetic carriers are particularly suitable according to the invention Creams, emulsions, gels or surfactant-containing foaming Solutions, such as shampoos, foam aerosols or other preparations, in particular for use are suitable on the hair. But it is also conceivable, the ingredients in a powdered or tablet-shaped Formulation to integrate, which before application in water is solved. The cosmetic carriers can especially aqueous or aqueous-alcoholic be.

One aqueous cosmetic carrier at least 50% by weight of water.

For the purposes of the present invention, aqueous-alcoholic cosmetic carriers are to be understood as meaning aqueous solutions containing from 3 to 70% by weight of a C ₁ -C ₄ -alcohol, in particular ethanol or isopropanol. The corrugating agents according to the invention may additionally contain other organic solvents, such as, for example, methoxybutanol, benzyl alcohol, ethyl diglycol or 1,2-propylene glycol. Preference is given to all water-soluble organic solvents.

Of the pH value of the corrugating agent according to the invention in the range of pH 5 to 12, in particular from pH 7 to 9.5. The pH the corrugating agent according to the invention is in use of sulfite and / or disulfite and / or Hydrogensulft preferred a value in the neutral range of pH 5 to 8, preferably of pH 6 set to 7.5.

to Adjustment of this pH contain the inventive Waving agents usually alkalizing agents such as ammonia, Alkali and ammonium carbonates and bicarbonates or organic amines like monoethanolamine. To protect the scalp with good waviness of the waving agent, the pH of the according to the invention during the application constant. Constant means according to the invention, that the pH of the ready-to-use waving agent is not around more than 0.5 pH units, especially not more than 0.2 pH units changes. Thus, the ready-to-use corrugating agent is preferably free of compounds to formulate which by a ready-to-use corrugating medium Alkaline hydrolysis takes a measurable dynamic pH Cause subsidence. These compounds are, for example, diethyl oxalate, Galactonic acid 1,4-lactone, ribonic acid 1,4-lactone, Mannoic acid 1,4-lactone, gulonic acid 1,4-lactone, Glucuronic acid-6,3-lactone, glucono-1,5-lactone, others Carboxylic acid ester in combination with ester-splitting enzymes.

• • heterocyclische Verbindungen wie Imidazol, Pyrrolidin, Piperidin, Dioxolan, Dioxan, Morpholin und Piperazin sowie Derivate dieser Verbindungen wie beispielsweise die C_1-4-Alkyl-Derivate, C_1-4-Hydroxyalkyl-Derivate und C_1-4-Aminoalkyl-Derivate. Bevorzugte Substituenten, die sowohl an Kohlenstoffatomen als auch an Stickstoffatomen der heterocyclischen Ringsysteme positioniert sein können, sind Methyl-, Ethyl-, β-Hydroxyethyl- und β-Aminoethyl-Gruppen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate heterocyclischer Verbindungen sind beispielsweise 1-Methylimidazol, 2-Methylimidazol, 4(5)-Methylimidazol, 1,2-Dimethylimidazol, 2-Ethylimidazol, 2-Isopropylimidazol, N-Methylpyrrolidon, 1-Methylpiperidin, 4-Methylpiperidin, 2-Ethylpiperidin, 4-Methylmorpholin, 4-(2-Hydroxyethyl)morpholin, 1-Ethylpiperazin, 1-(2-Hydroxyethyl)piperazin, 1-(2- Aminoethyl)piperazin. Weiterhin erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Imidazolderivate sind Biotin, Hydantoin und Benzimidazol. Ganz besonders bevorzugt ist das Imidazol.
• • Aminosäuren wie insbesondere Arginin, Citrullin, Histidin, Ornithin und Lysin. Die Aminosäuren können sowohl als freie Aminosäure als auch als Salze, z. B. als Hydrochloride, eingesetzt werden. Weiterhin haben sich auch Oligopeptide aus durchschnittlich 2–3 Aminosäuren, die einen hohen Anteil (> 50%, insbesondere > 70%) an den genannten Aminosäuren haben, als erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar erwiesen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind Arginin sowie dessen Salze und argininreiche Oligopeptide.
• • Diole wie beispielsweise 2-Ethyl-1,3-hexandiol, 1,3-Butandiol, 1,4-Butandiol, 1,2-Propandiol, 1,3-Propandiol, Neopentylglykol und Ethylenglykol. 1,3-Diole, insbesondere 2-Ethyl-1,3-hexandiol und 1,3-Butandiol, haben sich als besonders gut geeignet erwiesen.

Furthermore, the corrugating agents according to the invention may contain corrosive components, such as

• Heterocyclic compounds, such as imidazole, pyrrolidine, piperidine, dioxolane, dioxane, morpholine and piperazine, and derivatives of these compounds, for example the C _1-4 -alkyl derivatives, C _1-4 -hydroxyalkyl-De derivatives and C _1-4 aminoalkyl derivatives. Preferred substituents which may be positioned on both carbon atoms and nitrogen atoms of the heterocyclic ring systems are methyl, ethyl, β-hydroxyethyl and β-aminoethyl groups. Preferred derivatives of heterocyclic compounds according to the invention are, for example, 1-methylimidazole, 2-methylimidazole, 4 (5) -methylimidazole, 1,2-dimethylimidazole, 2-ethylimidazole, 2-isopropylimidazole, N-methylpyrrolidone, 1-methylpiperidine, 4-methylpiperidine, 2 Ethyl piperidine, 4-methylmorpholine, 4- (2-hydroxyethyl) morpholine, 1-ethylpiperazine, 1- (2-hydroxyethyl) piperazine, 1- (2-aminoethyl) piperazine. Further preferred imidazole derivatives according to the invention are biotin, hydantoin and benzimidazole. Most preferably, the imidazole.
• • Amino acids such as in particular arginine, citrulline, histidine, ornithine and lysine. The amino acids can be used both as free amino acid and as salts, eg. B. as hydrochlorides used. Furthermore, oligopeptides of on average 2-3 amino acids, which have a high proportion (> 50%, in particular> 70%) of the amino acids mentioned, have proven to be usable according to the invention. Particularly preferred according to the invention are arginine and its salts and arginine-rich oligopeptides.
• Diols such as 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, 1,3-butanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,2-propanediol, 1,3-propanediol, neopentyl glycol and ethylene glycol. 1,3-diols, in particular 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol and 1,3-butanediol, have proven to be particularly suitable.

For more information on such Wellkraftverstärkenden components is to the publications DE-OS 44 36 065 and EP-B1-363 057 referenced, the contents of which are expressly incorporated by reference.

The Wellkraftverstärkenden connections can in the waving agents according to the invention in quantities of 0.5 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total corrugating agent be. Amounts of 1 to 4 wt .-%, in the case of diols from 0.5 to 3 wt .-%, have been found to be sufficient, which is why these quantities are particularly preferred.

The Waving agents according to the invention may additionally contain at least one oil component.

Oil components suitable according to the invention are in principle all oils and fatty substances and their mixtures with solid paraffins and waxes. Preferred are such oil components, their solubility in water at 20 ° C less than 1 Wt .-%, in particular less than 0.1 wt .-% is. Of the Melting point of the individual oil or fat components lies preferably below about 40 ° C. Oil components, at room temperature, d. H. liquid below 25 ° C are, according to the invention particularly be preferred. When using multiple oil and grease components and possibly solid paraffins and waxes, it is usually however also sufficient if the mixture of oil and fat components and possibly paraffins and waxes meet these conditions.

A preferred group of oil components are vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are apricot kernel oil, Avocado oil, sunflower oil, olive oil, Soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, Orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of the coconut oil. Suitable but are also other triglyceride oils such as the liquid Proportions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.

Another particularly preferred group of oil components which can be used according to the invention are liquid paraffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons, and also di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n -decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl-n dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether, and di-tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyl decyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds are available as commercial products 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.

Also usable according to the invention oil components are fatty acid and fatty alcohol esters. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 3 to 24 C atoms are preferred. This group of substances are the products of the esterification of fatty acids having 8 to 24 carbon atoms, such as caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, Petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the reduction of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids incurred with alcohols such as isopropyl alcohol, glycerol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol hol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate, isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, cocofatty alcohol caprate / caprylate and n-butyl stearate.

Farther also include dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, Di (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate and diol ester such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2-ethylhexanoate), Propylene glycol di-isostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol di-isostearate and neopentyl glycol di-capylate oil components usable in the present invention represents, as complex esters such. B. the diacetyl-glycerol monostearate.

Finally, oil components which can preferably be used according to the invention are also silicone oils, in particular dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, and also their alkoxylated and quaternized analogs and also cyclic siloxanes. Examples of such silicones are the products marketed by Dow Corning under the names DC 190, DC 200 and DC 1401 and the commercial products DC 344 and DC 345 from Dow Corning, Q2-7224 (manufactured by Dow Corning, a stabilized trimethylsilylamodimethicone), Dow Corning ^® 929 emulsion (containing a hydroxylamino-modified silicone which is also known as amodimethicone), SM-2059 (manufacturer: General Electric), SLM-55067 (manufacturer: Wacker) and Abil ^® -Quat 3270 and 3272 (manufacturer: Th. Goldschmidt; diquaternary polydimethylsiloxanes, quaternium-80). For the purposes of the invention, silicone oils having a kinematic viscosity of up to 50,000 cSt, measured at 25 ° C., may be preferred. Very particular preference is given to silicone oils having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt, measured at 25.degree. The determination of the viscosities is carried out according to the ball drop method according to the method "british standard 188". Comparable values are obtained with manufacturers' British standard 188 analog test specifications, such as Dow Corning Corporation's "CTM 0577".

In a particular embodiment, especially cyclic siloxanes such as the products of Dow Corning ^® 344, Dow Corning ^® 345, Dow Corning ^® 244, Dow Corning ^® 245 or Dow Corning ^® 246 are used as oil component having kinematic viscosities of up to 10,000 cSt at 25 ° C determined according to the manufacturer's instructions.

Finally, oil components which can be used according to the invention are also dialkyl carbonates, as described in US Pat DE-OS 197 101 54 to which reference is expressly made to be described in detail. Dioctyl carbonates, especially the di-2-ethylhexyl carbonate, are preferred oil components within the scope of the present invention.

Farther can the corrugation according to the invention additionally contain only limited water-miscible alcohols.

Under "with Water is limited to miscible ", such alcohols are understood in water at 20 ° C to not more than 10 wt .-%, based on the body of water, are soluble.

In In many cases, triols and especially diols have been found to be particularly useful in this invention proved suitable. Usable according to the invention are alcohols having 4 to 20, especially 4 to 10, carbon atoms. The Alcohols used in the invention can saturated or unsaturated and linear, branched or cyclic. Applicable for the purposes of the invention are, for example Butanol-1, cyclohexanol, pentanol-1, decanol, octanol, octenol, Dodecenol, decenol, octadienol, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, Eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, Cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, Caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. The fatty alcohols However, they are derived from preferably natural fatty acids usually from recovery from the esters the fatty acids can be assumed by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those Fatty alcohol slices obtained by reduction of naturally occurring Triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, Rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, Sunflower oil and linseed oil or from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols resulting fatty acid esters be generated, and thus a mixture of different fatty alcohols represent.

According to the invention preferred alcohols are 2-ethyl-hexanediol-1,3, butanol-1, cyclohexanol, Pentanol-1 and 1,2-butanediol. In particular, 2-ethyl-1,3-hexanediol, but also butanol-1 and cyclohexanol are particularly preferred.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 100 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

In a further embodiment, emulsifiers can be used in the waving agents according to the invention. Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. An emulsion is to be understood as meaning a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid under the expense of energy in order to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in " H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 ". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of 4 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

The Waving agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

The corrugating agents according to the invention may preferably comprise at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, in accordance with the Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 , listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 may be particularly preferred according to the invention.

The However, teaching according to the invention also includes such Embodiments of the invention Wells in which a multi-phase wave agent is present, which from two or more separately prepared starting preparations can be produced immediately before use. These Embodiment may be preferred for incompatible components be. It has surprisingly been found that Well-formulated waving agent for the same amount of the respective additional keratin-reducing components a significant increased wave effect result. Consequently, this way can with a formulated according to the invention corrugating agent achieved corrugation performance with a significant reduction in the proportion the keratin-reducing substance, and thus under additional Protection of hair and scalp, can be achieved.

Furthermore, it has been found that by formulating the corrugating medium as a two- and multi-phase system the problem of perfuming can be significantly reduced. However, due to the fragrance of the ingredients contained in the waving agents according to the invention (keratin-reducing thio compounds, possibly alkalis such as ammonia or alkanolamines) not tolerated by most users, perfuming is practically essential. The problem is that the vast majority of the perfume components in such waving agents is not storage-stable. Thus, the selection of fragrances for these waving agents is severely limited. It has now also surprisingly been found that when using the two- or multi-phase systems, a plurality of other perfume components can be incorporated into this corrugated storage stable.

• • eine wässrige Phase und eine nichtwässrige Phase, die separat voneinander vorliegen
• • eine wässrige Phase und zwei nichtwässrige, miteinander nicht mischbare Phasen, die jeweils separat vorliegen
• • eine Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion und eine davon separiert vorliegende nichtwässrige Phase
• • eine Wasser-in-Öl-Emulsion und eine davon separiert vorliegende wässrige Phase.

Two- and multi-phase systems which can be used according to the invention are systems in which there are at least two separate, continuous phases. Examples of such systems are preparations which have the following phases:

• An aqueous phase and a nonaqueous phase which are separate from each other
• • one aqueous phase and two non-aqueous, immiscible phases, each of which is separate
• An oil-in-water emulsion and a non-aqueous phase separated therefrom
• A water-in-oil emulsion and an aqueous phase separated therefrom.

None Two-phase systems in the sense of the present invention are systems where there is only one continuous phase, such. Pure oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions.

Prefers contain the corrugation according to the invention further additionally at least one conditioning agent.

When conditioning agents are preferably cationic polymers into consideration. These are usually polymers that are quaternary Nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate.
• – Polysiloxane mit quaternären Gruppen,
• – Polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere.
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminomethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich.
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter der Bezeichnung Luviquat^® angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen
• – Polyquaternium 2,
• – Polyquaternium 17,
• – Polyquaternium 18 und
• – Polyquaternium 27

bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette.Preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives.
• Polysiloxanes with quaternary groups,
• - Polymers Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers.
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylamino acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminomethacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially.
• - vinylpyrrolidone Vinylimidazoliniummethochlorid copolymers, such as those offered under the name Luviquat.RTM ^®,
• - Quaternized polyvinyl alcohol and those under the names
• - Polyquaternium 2,
• - Polyquaternium 17,
• - Polyquaternium 18 and
• - Polyquaternium 27

known polymers with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain.

Suitable conditioning agents are also ampho-polymers. Amphoteric polymers, ie polymers which contain both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts, are zwitterionic polymers which contain quaternary ammonium groups in the molecule. COO ^- - or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups. An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters. Likewise preferred amphopolymers are composed of unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylic and methacrylic acid), cationically derivatized unsaturated carboxylic acids (for example acrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride) and, if appropriate, further ionic or nonionic monomers together, such as in the German patent application 39 29 973 and the prior art cited therein. Terpolymers of acrylic acid, methyl acrylate and Methacrylamidopropyltrimoniumchlorid, as they are commercially available under the name Merquat ^® 2001 N and the commercial product Merquat ^® 280, according to the invention are particularly preferred amphopolymers.

The cationic or amphoteric polymers are in the inventive Preparations preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, based on the entire preparation, included.

As conditioning agents further suitable silicone gums, such as. As the commercial product Fancorsil ^® LIM-1, and anionic silicones, such as the product Dow Corning ^® 1784.

Examples of the cationic surfactants which can be used as conditioning agents in the waving agents according to the invention are, in particular, quaternary ammonium compounds. Preference is given to ammonium halides, in particular chlorides and bromides, such as alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, eg. Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, stearyl trimethyl ammonium chloride, distearyl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl ammonium chloride, lauryl dimethyl benzyl ammonium chloride and tricetylmethyl ammonium chloride. Furthermore, the very readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds, so-called "esterquats", such as those marketed under the trademarks Dehyquart ^® and Stepantex ^® methyl hydroxyalkyl dialkoyloxyalkylammoniummethosulfate be used.

Alkylamidoamines, in particular fatty acid amidoamines, such as the ^{stearylamidopropyldimethylamine} obtainable under the name Tego ^Amid® S 18, are distinguished not only by a good conditioning action but also by their good biodegradability.

• – anionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Seifen, Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate, Salze von Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 10 bis 22 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist, Acylsarcoside, Acyltauride, Acylisethionate, Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und dialkylester, lineare Alkansulfonate, lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate, alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester und Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure Alkylglykosiden oder Alkoholen, welche Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen.
• – zwitterionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Betaine und 2-Alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazoline.
• – ampholytische Tenside, wie beispielsweise N-Alkylglycine, N-Alkylpropionsäuren, N-Alkylaminobuttersäuren, N-Alkyliminodipropionsäuren, N-Hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycine, N-Alkyltaurine, N-Alkylsarcosine, 2-Alkylaminopropionsäuren und Alkylaminoessigsäuren.
• – nichtionische Tenside wie beispielsweise Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 15 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fett säuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin, C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga sowie Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl.
• – nichtionische Polymere wie beispielsweise Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacrylat-Copolymere, Polyvinylpyrrolidon und Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere,
• – anionische Polymere, wie Polyacryl- und Polymethacrylsäuren, deren Salze, deren Copolymere mit Acrylsäure- und Methacrylsäureestern und -amiden und deren Derivate, die durch Kreuzvernetzung mit polyfunktionellen Agentien erhalten werden, Polyoxycarbonsäuren, wie Polyketo- und Polyaldehydocarbonsäuren und deren Salze, sowie Polymere und Copolymere der Crotonsäure mit Estern und Amiden der Acryl- und der Methacrylsäure, wie Vinylacetat-Crotonsäure- und Vinylacetat-Vinylpropionat-Crotonsäure-Copolymere,
• – organische Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Celluloseether, wie Methyl- und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, Gelatine, Pektine und/oder Xanthan-Gum. Ethoxilierte Fettalkohole, insbesondere solche mit eingeschränkter Homologenverteilung, wie sie beispielsweise als Handelsprodukt unter der Bezeichnung Arlypon^®F (Henkel) auf dem Markt sind, alkoxylierte Methylglucosidester, wie das Handelsprodukt Glucamate^® DOE 120 (Amerchol), und ethoxylierte Propylenglykolester, wie das Handelsprodukt Antil^® 141 (Goldschmidt), können bevorzugte organische Verdickungsmittel sein.
• – Strukturanten wie Glucose und Maleinsäure,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – Parfümöle,
• – Lösungsvermittler, wie Ethanol, Isopropanol, Ethylenglykol, Propylenglykol, Glycerin, Diethylenglykol und ethoxylierte Triglyceride sowie Fettalkoholethoxylate und deren Derivate,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Climbazol, Piroctone Olamine und Zink Omadine,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Bisabolol, Allantoin, Panthenol, Niacinmid, Tocopherol und Pflanzenextrakte,
• – Lichtschutzmittel,
• – Konsistenzgeber wie Zuckerester, Polyolester oder Polyolalkylether,
• – Fette und Wachse, wie Walrat, Bienenwachs, Montanwachs, Paraffine, Ester, Glyceride und Fettalkohole,
• – Fettsäurealkanolamide,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie PCA, Glycerin, Propylenglykolmonoethylether, Carbonate, Hydrogencarbonate, Guanidine, Harnstoffe sowie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex oder Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere,
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat oder PEG-3-distearat,
• – direktziehende Farbstoffe sowie
• – Treibmittel wie Propan-Butan-Gemische, N₂O, Dimethylether, CO₂ und Luft.

Further customary constituents for the corrugating agents according to the invention are:

• - anionic surfactants such as soaps, alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates, salts of ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in the R is a linear alkyl group having 10 to 22 carbon atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16, acylsarcosides, acyltaurides, acylisethionates, sulfosuccinic and dialkyl, linear alkanesulfonates, linear alpha-olefinsulfonates, alpha-sulfofatty acid and esters of tartaric and citric acid alkyl glycosides or alcohols, which adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or Propylene oxide to fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 carbon atoms.
• - Zwitterionic surfactants such as betaines and 2-alkyl-3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines.
• Ampholytic surfactants, for example N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids.
• Nonionic surfactants such as addition products of 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 15 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C Atoms in the alkyl group, C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide with glycerol, C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogs and addition products of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide on castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil.
• Nonionic polymers such as vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acrylate copolymers, polyvinyl pyrrolidone and vinyl pyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers,
• Anionic polymers such as polyacrylic and polymethacrylic acids, their salts, their copolymers with acrylic and methacrylic acid esters and amides and their derivatives obtained by cross-linking with polyfunctional agents, polyoxycarboxylic acids such as polyketo- and polyaldehydocarboxylic acids and their salts, and polymers and Copolymers of crotonic acid with esters and amides of acrylic and methacrylic acid, such as vinyl acetate-crotonic acid and vinyl acetate-vinyl propionate-crotonic acid copolymers,
• Organic thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, cellulose ethers such as methyl and methyl hydroxypropyl cellulose, gelatin, pectins and / or xanthan gum. Ethoxylated fatty alcohols, especially those with limited homolog distribution, such as for example as a commercial product under the name Arlypon ^® F (Henkel) on the market, alkoxylated methylglucoside esters, such as the commercial product Glucamate ^® DOE 120 (Amerchol), and ethoxylated propylene glycol esters, such as the commercial product Antil ^® 141 (Goldschmidt) may be preferred organic thickeners.
• - structurants such as glucose and maleic acid,
• Hair conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and Ke phaline,
• - perfume oils,
• Solubilizers, such as ethanol, isopropanol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol, diethylene glycol and ethoxylated triglycerides, and fatty alcohol ethoxylates and their derivatives,
• Anti-dandruff agents such as climbazole, piroctone olamine and zinc omadine,
• - active substances such as bisabolol, allantoin, panthenol, niacinmide, tocopherol and plant extracts,
• - sunscreen,
• Bodying agents such as sugar esters, polyol esters or polyol alkyl ethers,
• Fats and waxes, such as spermaceti, beeswax, montan wax, paraffins, esters, glycerides and fatty alcohols,
• Fatty acid alkanolamides,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetration substances such as PCA, glycerol, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, bicarbonates, guanidines, ureas and primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex or styrene / acrylamide copolymers,
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate or PEG-3-distearate,
• - direct dyes as well
• - Propellants such as propane-butane mixtures, N ₂ O, dimethyl ether, CO ₂ and air.

With regard to the other constituents of the corrugating agent according to the invention and their usual amounts used is explicitly on the known monographs, z. B. Umbach, cosmetics, 2nd edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart New York, 1995 , and Kh. Schrader, bases and formulations of the cosmetics, 2nd edition, Hüthig book publishing house, Heidelberg, 1989 , referenced.

• (i) die Fasern unter Zuhilfenahme von Verformungshilfsmitteln nach, vor oder während des Schritts (ii) verformt werden,
• (ii) ein Wellmittel des zweiten Erfindungsgegenstandes auf den Fasern angewendet wird,
• (iii) die Fasern nach einer Einwirkzeit Z1, gespült und gegebenenfalls getrocknet werden,
• (iv) anschließend ein Fixiermittel, enthaltend mindestens ein Oxidationsmittel, auf die Fasern aufgetragen und nach einer Einwirkzeit Z2 wieder abgespült wird.

A second object of the invention is a process for the permanent transformation of keratin-containing fibers, in particular human hair, in which

• (i) the fibers are deformed with the aid of deformation aids after, before or during step (ii),
• (ii) a corrugating agent of the second subject of the invention is applied to the fibers,
• (iii) the fibers are rinsed and optionally dried after a contact time Z1,
• (iv) then a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent, applied to the fibers and rinsed again after a contact time Z2.

• – z. B. Lockenwickler oder Papilloten im Falle einer Dauerwelle,
• – oder Hilfsmittel für eine mechanische Glättung, wie ein Kamm oder eine Bürste, ein Glättungsboard oder ein beheizbares Glättungseisen im Falle einer Haarglättung sein.

Deformation aids in the sense of the method according to the invention can

• - z. Curlers or papillots in the case of a perm,
• - or auxiliary for a mechanical smoothing, such as a comb or a brush, a smoothing board or a heatable smoothing iron in case of hair straightening.

If the deformation aids, such as winder, as part of a Perming procedure for a longer period of time attached to the fiber, so it is appropriate these deformation aids before step (iii) or after step (iv) remove. It may be advantageous in this context the deformation aids during step (iv) in Leave hair, then remove it and then step (iv) as so-called Nachfixierschritt (v) to repeat.

In a preferred embodiment of the invention the keratin-containing fibers moistened before step (i). This can by spraying the fibers with a liquid, preferably with water. Preferably, the fibers become shampooed before step (i) with a conventional shampoo, rinsed and then toweled with a towel. After completion of the Terry step remains a noticeable residual moisture back in the hair.

Under a mechanical smoothing is inventively a Stretching the frizzy fiber along its longest spatial Expansion understood.

The Contact time Z1 of the corrugating agent according to the invention is preferably 5-60 minutes, more preferably 10-30 minutes.

The Exposure time Z2 is preferably 1-30 minutes, more preferably 5-20 minutes.

A mandatory constituent of the fixing agent used in the process according to the invention is at least one oxidizing agent (for example sodium bromate, potassium bromate or hydrogen peroxide, particularly preferably hydrogen peroxide). Preference is given to stabilizing aqueous hydrogen peroxide preparations contain conventional stabilizers.

The Fixing agents preferably contain at least 50 wt .-% water.

According to the invention, hydrogen peroxide-containing fixing agents preferably contain from 0.5 to 15% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, of H ₂ O ₂ , in each case based on the weight of the fixing agent. The pH of these hydrogen peroxide-based fixers is preferably from 2 to 6, in particular from 2 to 4. It is adjusted by inorganic acids, preferably phosphoric acid.

Bromat-based fixatives usually contain the bromates in concentrations of 1 to 10 wt .-%. The pH of the bromate solutions is adjusted to 4 to 7. Likewise suitable are enzymatic-based fixatives (for example peroxidases) which contain no or only small amounts of oxidizing agents, in particular H ₂ O ₂ .

The preferred embodiments and definitions of the invention Waving agents are also mutatis mutandis for the process.

One third subject of the invention is a packaging unit (kit-of-parts) for carrying out the inventive A method comprising a first container containing a corrugating agent of the second subject of the invention and a second container, containing a fixing agent containing at least one oxidizing agent contains. Here are the oxidizing agents of the third subject of the invention prefers.

These two containers can be self-contained containers or different chambers within a two- or multi-compartment container, For example, a multi-chamber tube, a multi-chamber aerosol can or a multi-chamber bottle, his. Such containers are known to those skilled in the art.

The Kit may additionally contain a use instruction which the application of the kit according to the method of third subject invention dictates.

About that In addition, the kit can also optionally use application aids, Mixing vessels or protective gloves included.

The preferred embodiments and definitions of the invention Waving agents also apply mutatis mutandis to the packaging unit.

The The following examples are intended to explain the invention in more detail.

Examples

It The following compositions were prepared by conventional method provided (the quantities are, unless otherwise indicated, always in% by weight).

1 Preparation of the agents used

1.1 Preparation of the corrugating medium

The following corrugating agents were prepared: E1 E2 E3 Natrosol ^® 250 HR 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ammonium thioglycolate (71% in water) 17.8 16.7 11.2 Turpinal® ^® SL 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ammonia (25% in water) 1.8 0.6 1.8 ammonium bicarbonate 8.8 5.0 3.4 Plantapon ^® ACG LC 1.0 1.0 1.0 Eumulgin ^® B1 1.0 1.0 1.0 Perfume 0.5 0.5 0.5 Merquat ^® 100 0.05 0.15 0.2 Gluadin® ^® WQ 0.05 0.15 - Gluadin® ^® W 20 - - 0.3 Herbasol ^® Extract Aloe discolored 0.6 0.6 0.6 Keratin powder 0.5 0.5 0.5 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 E4 E5 E6 E7 Natrosol ^® 250 HR 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 Ammonium thioglycolate (71% in water) 16.6 16.4 10.9 7.0 Turpinal® ^® SL 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 L-cysteine hydrochloride monohydrate - - - 1.5 Ammonium thiolactate (70% in water) 0.7 - - - Ammonia (25% in water) 3.4 2.4 1.7 1.2 ammonium bicarbonate 5.5 5.5 4.5 2.1 Urea (46% N-content) 2.8 2.8 - - 2-ethyl-hexane-1,3-diol - 0.6 - - Plantapon ^® ACG LC 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Eumulgin ^® B1 1.0 1.0 1.0 1.0 Perfume 0.6 0.6 0.5 0.5 Merquat ^® 100 0.3 0.4 0.4 0.5 Gluadin® ^® W 20 0.3 0.4 0.4 0.5 Herbasol ^® extract Aloe, decolorized 0.6 0.6 0.6 0.6 silk protein hydrolyzate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

1.2 Preparation of fixing agents

The following fixatives were prepared: F F Phosphoric acid (85% in water) 1.0 1.0 Hydrogen peroxide (50% in water) 4.0 4.0 methylparaben 0.04 0.04 Dehyquart® ^® A-CA 0.3 0.3 Merquat ^® 100 0.5 0.2 Aromox ^® MCD W 3.0 3.0 Perfume 0.3 0.3 water ad 100 ad 100 1.3 List of used commercial products Aromox ^® MCD-W N, N-dimethyl-N-cocoalkylamine N-oxide (about 30% active ingredient, INCI name: Cocamine Oxide) (Akzo Nobel) Dehyquart® ^® A-CA Trimethylhexadecylammonium chloride (about 24-26% active ingredient, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Cetrimonium Chloride) (Cognis) Eumulgin ^® B1 Cetylstearyl alcohol with approx. 12 EO units (INCI name: Ceteareth-12) (Cognis) Gluadin® ^® W20 Wheat protein hydrolyzate (at least 20% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Sodium Benzoate, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Propylparaben) (Cognis) Gluadin® ^® WQ Wheat Protein Hydrolyzate (about 31-35% solids, INCI name: Aqua (Water), Lauridimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Ethylparaben, Methylparaben) (Cognis) Herbasol ^® extract Aloe 2-4% solids (INCI name: Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Sorbitol, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben) (Cosmetochem) Merquat ^® 100 Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride) (about 40% solids, INCI name: Polyquaternium-6) (Ondeo Nalco) Natrosol ^® 250 HR Hydroxyethylcellulose (INCI name: Hydroxyethylcellulose) (Hercules) Plantapon ^® ACG LC N-cocoyl-L-glutamic acid disodium salt (31% by weight of active substance in water with approx. 2.7% by weight of isopropanol, INCI name: disodium cocoyl glutamate) (Cognis) Turpinal® ^® SL 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid (about 58-61% active ingredient content, INCI name: Etidronic Acid, Aqua (Water)) (Solutia)

2 experimental procedure

The Perm-curable formulations containing 0.6% by weight Aloe Vera Extract respectively comparable formulations without this extract were on strands of hair applied and left there for 20 minutes. After that were Rinse the hair with clear water for 5 minutes. Subsequently the fixation was applied and on for 10 minutes leave the hair. After the end of this exposure time, the hair was rinsed with clear water for another 5 minutes. This procedure was repeated a total of 3 times. After air drying and 24 hours air conditioning at 25 ° C and 40% relative Humidity were the hair of a moisture measurement (microwave method) subjected. The measuring principle is based on a microwave resonance method. The method uses the dipole properties of the water molecule. In a measuring cell becomes a harmonic electromagnetic Resonance field generated. The water bound in the product now enters interacting with this field. The field changes will be detected by a detector and evaluated in a control unit.

3 result

It can be seen that in all cases the hair treated with the aloe vera extract-containing formulation had up to 15.7% more internal moisture than the hair with one of the comparative formulations were treated. The hair treated according to the invention showed a pleasant feel and good combability.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

Cited patent literature

• - DE 4436065 A [0048]
• - EP 363057 B1 [0048]
• DE 19710154 A [0058]
• - DE 3929973 A [0073]

Cited non-patent literature

• - Current Organic Chemistry 2000, 4 (10), pp. 1055-1078 (24) by E. Dagne et al. [0023]
• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) [0036]
• - H.-D. Dörfler, interfacial and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH. Weinheim, 1994 [0063]
• - Rompp Lexicon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764 [0065]
• - Umbach, Cosmetics, 2nd edition, Georg Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart New York, 1995 [0079]
• - Kh. Schrader, Basics and Formulations of Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, Hüthig Buch Verlag, Heidelberg, 1989 [0079]

Claims (10)

Waving agent containing in a cosmetic Wear a combination of (i) at least one keratin-reducing Connection, (ii) at least one preparation consisting of a plant of the genus Aloe is obtained, and at least one for this plant genus characteristic active ingredient contains, and (iii) at least one protein hydrolyzate. Waving agent according to claim 1, characterized the preparation (ii) is a plant extract. Waving agent according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the preparation (ii) of Aloe barbadensis or Aloe capensis is obtained. Waving agent according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate from plants, in particular from wheat, maize, rice, potatoes, soya or almonds, can be won Agent according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is derived from marine life forms, especially from fish collages or algae can be obtained. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is derived from animal Educts, in particular from collagen, milk or keratin can be. Agent according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the protein hydrolyzate is a total hydrolyzate is. Waving agent according to one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the at least one keratin reducing Compound selected from at least one representative the group that is formed out - Mercaptans with at least one group-SH and - sulfite compounds. Process for the permanent transformation of keratin-containing Fibers, in particular human hair, in which (i) the Fibers with the aid of deformation aids, before or deformed during step (ii), (Ii) a corrugating agent according to any one of claims 1 to 8 on the Fibers are applied, (iii) the fibers after an exposure time Z1, rinsed and optionally dried, (Iv) then a fixative containing at least one Oxidizing agent, applied to the fibers and after a contact time Z2 is rinsed off again. Packing unit (kit-of-parts) for implementation The method of claim 9, comprising a first container containing a corrugating agent according to one of claims 1 to 8 and a second container containing a fixative, the contains at least one oxidizing agent.