DE102008052341A1 - Use of a caring formulation, comprising an extract of mangosteen, e.g. for improving skin barrier function of human and animal body parts, and treating and/or preventing skin aging caused by oxidative stress, and/or hair damage - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is the use of care formulations for human and animal body parts containing an extract of mangosteen for improving the skin barrier function, the use of the extract for the preparation of care formulations for improving the skin barrier function, and the care formulations themselves.

Description

Field of the invention

object The present invention is the use of care formulations containing for human and animal body parts an extract of mangosteen to improve skin barrier function, the use of the extract for the preparation of care formulations to improve the skin barrier function, as well as the care formulations himself.

State of the art

mangosteen is a species of the genus Garcinia in the family Clusiaceae and is also called Mangosteen Mangosteen or Mangostin (Garcinia mangostana).

Of the evergreen tree with dark brown bark can reach a height reach up to 25 meters. The leaves are short, thick and leathery. The ripe fruits are usually year-round harvested in the growing areas of Indonesia and Thailand. In the meantime, will be Mangosteens also grown in Brazil and Central America. The wine red peel fruit with white pulp has a sweet and sour taste with a pleasant taste Aroma. The fruit itself contains a lot of vitamins, minerals, Trace elements, antioxidants and xanthones. It contains the mangosteen fruit over 40 natural xanthones and is thus the richest fruit of this species. Medical Studies show that xanthones are used to fight cancerous tumors, Inflammations, bacteria, viruses, allergies, etc. positive Act. Xanthones are aromatic oxo compounds derived from the Derive the ring system of xanthine and in nature the coloring Put substances of plants. Xanthones have only been around since middle the 1990s, primarily in Asian and American studies examined. Certain xanthones, such as the mangostin, act on cellular Level in the body is antioxidant (that is, in function as a highly efficient Radical scavengers against free radicals), resulting antibacterial, antibiotic, anti-hepatotoxic, anti-allergic and antifungal properties of these plant substances.

The The task of nourishing cosmetics is to give the impression of being external youthful appearance, such as the skin and Hair, to get. In principle, there are several ways to reach this path. So can already existing Damage to the skin, such as irregular Pigmentation or wrinkling, by covering powder or creams be compensated. Another approach is to protect the skin from environmental factors protect, leading to permanent damage and thus lead to aging of the skin. So the idea is intervene proactively and thereby delay the aging process. An example of this are UV filters, which by absorption certain wavelength ranges damage Avoid or at least reduce the skin. While with UV filters the damaging event, the UV radiation, from the skin shielded, you try on another way, the natural Defensive or repair mechanisms of the skin against the damaging event to support. Finally, one pursues as Another starting point is the weakening with age Defensive functions of the skin against damaging influences to balance by supplying substances from the outside, which can replace this diminishing defense or repair function. For example, the skin has the ability to release radicals, which is generated by external or internal stress factors will intercept. These factors, especially sun rays, generate harmful radicals, mostly reactive oxygen species (ROS). Every skin layer - from outside to inside: stratum corneum, epidermis, dermis and hypodermis - has its own Protection system against the attack of free radicals and is depending on the function this layer composed differently. While The oxidative stress will be more free radicals and oxidants (ROS) formed in the skin when the antioxidant protection systems intercept can. The extra ROS change that Redox balance of skin cells. This will be redoxsensitive Signaling pathways activates a change in gene expression trigger. Oxidative stress arises from a surplus at ROS, for example as a result of UV exposure or ozone pollution. However, there are also cases of deficient endogenous radical defense, for example, in the absence of antioxidant vitamins or enzyme defects in the antioxidant defense. This form of oxidative stress can by pathophysiological inflammatory reactions and the Metabolism of the cell can be strengthened.

The Ability of the skin to absorb radicals weakens decreases with age, thereby increasing the aging process accelerated with age. Products for nursing care, especially aged skin are known per se. They contain z. B. retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or its derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on structural damage However, it is limited in scope. About that There are also significant difficulties in product development, the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative decay to stabilize. The use of vitamin A acid-containing In addition, products often require strong erythematous Skin irritation. Retinoids can therefore only be used in low concentrations.

The skin is the largest organ of the men rule. Among its many functions, for example, for heat regulation and as a sense organ, is the barrier function, which prevents the drying of the skin - and thus ultimately the entire organism - probably the most important. At the same time, the skin acts as a protective device against the penetration and absorption of substances coming from outside. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which, as the outermost layer, forms the actual protective cover against the environment. At about one-tenth of the total thickness, it is also the thinnest layer of the skin. The epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), is the major part of the barrier function. The skin model of Elias (today recognized in the professional world) PM Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105 ) describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to a brick wall (brick-mortar model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces corresponds to the mortar. This system is essentially a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multi-layered structure, it is also difficult to pass through lipophilic substances. In addition to their barrier effect against external chemical and physical influences, the epidermal lipids also contribute to the cohesion of the horny layer and have an influence on the skin smoothness. In contrast to the sebaceous gland lipids, which do not form a closed film on the skin, the epidermal lipids are distributed over the entire horny layer. In addition, the properties of the lipid membrane are influenced by cholesterol, as the incorporation of cholesterol increases the order of the membrane. The obstruction of the cis-trans isomerizations to double bonds leads to a narrower packing of the acyl chains. This effect is described as a 'condensing effect' and results in a reduction in membrane permeability. Cholesterol is part of almost all eukaryotic cell membranes. According to its structure, it builds up in a lipid bilayer so that the hydrophilic OH group is adjacent to the aqueous phase and the steroid skeleton and the aliphatic side chain are in the hydrophobic chain region of the phospholipids.

The utmost complex interaction of moisture-binding substances and the lipids of the upper skin layers is for regulation the skin moisture very important. Therefore, cosmetics usually contain in addition to balanced lipid mixtures and water, water-binding Substances.

Under Cosmetic skincare is first and foremost to understand that natural function of the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (eg dirt, chemicals, microorganisms) and against loss of endogenous substances (eg water, natural Fats, electrolytes) is strengthened or restored. If this function is disturbed, it can become too strong Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of Microorganisms and as a result come to toxic or allergic skin reactions.

aim Skin care is further improved by daily washing compensate for the loss of fat and water to the skin. This is especially important when the natural regenerative ability not enough. In addition, skin care products are intended Protect the environment, especially from sun and wind and delay skin aging.

Ceramide and other sphingolipids are called antiproliferative, differentiation-promoting Substances are described and play as so-called messengers ("second messenger ") plays a particularly important role. In living, healthy skin cells are ceramides (CER), phosphatidylcholine (PC), Diglycerides (DG), sphingomyelin (SM), sphingosine (SO), sphingosine 1-phosphate (SPP) and fatty acids (ES) in an equilibrium state (Homeostasis). With progressive differentiation of the Keratinocytes to the stratum corneum increases the content of ceramides and glucosylceramides too, which are opposite to the outside world to assume a pronounced protective function.

In the literature, modes of action are described in which the ceramides are able to activate transcription factors such as AP-1 or AP-2 (AP = activator protein) and to regulate growth processes. It has been shown that a lack of certain acylceramide fractions can be recognized in different forms of ichthyosis. In addition, a change in the distribution of ceramides was observed in psoriatic patients. Furthermore, removal of the skin lipids by extraction with various organic solvents also increases the permeability of the stratum corneum with a marked increase in TEWL. These and many other studies have clearly demonstrated the importance of intercellular lipids for the barrier properties of the skin. With increasing age, in certain diseases or as a result of environmental influences, the content of lipids in the membrane layers of the stratum corneum disappears. It could be shown that the skin of 50-year-old women contains only half as many ceramides as those of 20-year-olds. Thus it can be assumed that the keratinocytes lose some of their ability with aging, certain types of ceramides to produce. Ceramides exert their effects in the epidermis either as intracellular messengers or extracellular lipids that form the skin barrier. The intracellular concentration level of ceramides reflects the relationship between their synthesis and their further metabolism to other sphingolipids. The denovo synthesis of sphingolipids occurs at the endoplasmic reticulum (ER) and begins with the serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) -catalyzed condensation of L-serine with palmitoyl-CoA to form 3-ketosphinganine (3-ketodihydrosphingosine) , The resulting 3-ketosphinganine is immediately reduced to sphinganine (dihydrosphingosine) by the NAD (P) H-dependent 3-ketosphinganine reductase in the subsequent reaction.

The Cholesterol synthesis is mainly at the level of Enzyme HMG-CoA reductase, ie in the conversion of HMG-CoA in Mevalonate, regulated. This is because the HMG CoA reductase the slowest reaction in the reaction chain is and thus the Reaction rate determined. It gets both from mevalonate as well as being inhibited by cholesterol in its activity. The 3-hydroxyl-3-methylglutaryl-coenzyme A reductase (HMGCoA reductase) catalyzes the conversion of 3-hydroxyl-3-methylglutaryl-coenzyme A. to mevalonate and is the key enzyme of cholesterol synthesis, d. H. the synthesis of mevalonate is the pacemaker response of this synthetic pathway.

in addition the condensing effect comes by the inclusion of cholesterol in high concentrations. Cholesterol probably provides this system the necessary fluidity and plasticity. Only if these barrier fatty substances in a natural relationship to each other, the skin can retain its moisture and feels soft and supple.

With The Trolox Equivalent Antioxidant Capacity (TEAC) can help antioxidant capacity of a sample can be given. at the measurement is the 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (Trolox) for reference, therefore the result in Trolox equivalents is specified. The principle of measurement is based on that in a reaction vessel produces an oxidative environment and an added antioxidant slows down the oxidation reaction. Antioxidants, for example, those in the measured Probe contained xanthones. The time course of the oxidation reaction is measured and compared with that of the Trolox. The course of the Oxidation reaction is measured i. a. by means of a photometer and the chemical auxiliary 2,2'-azinobis- (3-ethylbenzthiazoline-6-sulfonic acid) (ABTS), which in a oxidative environment a stable green colored Radical cation forms, which are measured photometrically at 734 nm can.

Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC) is an alternative usable Measuring method used by American researchers for characterization antioxidant properties of foods has been developed. With this method is a distinction in hydrophilic and lipophilic Shares of antioxidant effect possible. For better Comparability here became the unity of the Trolox equivalent Retain (TE).

It There is still an increasing need for new, further and improved Active ingredients for cosmetic hair and skin treatment and for hair aftertreatment, alone or in combination with the respective cleaning and / or care products, if necessary with the concomitant use of usual nursing and physiological low-acting active ingredients and additives such as Vitamins, Ceramides, Sphingosides, Lecitins, Antioxidants, UV filters and others have a broad nourishing and conditioning effect exhibit.

task The invention was to provide a care active, the improves the protection of the skin from external influences.

Description of the invention

Surprisingly It has been found that the use of formulations for improvement the skin barrier function, which contains an extract of mangosteen, solves the above task.

object The present invention is therefore the use of care formulations containing for human and animal body parts an extract of mangosteen to improve skin barrier function, the use of the extract for the preparation of care formulations to improve the skin barrier function, as well as the care formulations himself.

As a "body part" in the The purposes of the present invention are all body parts, prefers skin and hair as well as especially the scalp too understand.

One Advantage of the invention is the high antioxidant capacity the care formulations of the invention.

One Another advantage is the coloring of the care active substance itself, which does not interfere with the care formulations.

Yet another advantage of the invention is the Reason easier cultivation of the plant, good availability of the raw material, ie the plant.

For the use of care formulations for human and animal body parts containing an extract Mangosteen for improving skin barrier function may be extracts be used from all parts of the mangosteen plant. Prefers the extract of the fruits used is preferred obtained from the pericarp of fruits, the mangosteen tree.

the Those skilled in the art are various methods of producing plants Extracts known. It is preferred for the use of Care formulations for human and animal body parts for Improving the skin barrier function of the contained extract by a method comprising the method steps A) at least one, preferably at least two, aqueous extractions of Mangosteen plant parts and separation of the aqueous phase, B) at least one organic extraction of the remaining drug from process step A) and C) purification in the separated organic phases from process step B contained xanthones. Here, in process step B), the organic extraction is preferred with an alcohol, preferably ethanol.

The Purification of the separated organic phases from process step B) contained xanthone can by any known to the expert Methods such as extraction, precipitation, chromatography be performed. Preferably takes place in process step C) the purification of xanthones by removing impurities by aqueous back-extraction, preferably in the basic, a obtained from step B) xanthone-containing fraction. The pH can be determined here by the person skilled in the known inorganic or organic acids and bases are regulated; as a base Ammonia is preferably used. The aqueous back extraction is preferably in a pH range of 7.0 to 12.0, preferably 8.0 to 11.0, and more preferably from 8.5 to 10.0.

Prefers The used care formulations contain a xanthone portion of at least 0.0006%, preferably of at least 0.006%, especially preferably at least 0.03% based on the total care formulation.

To determine the content of xanthones, a quantitative HPLC determination is used:
Mangostin HF-M 12 (content 98.46%) is used as reference substance. The eluents for HPLC priming are as follows: 495 ml of water, 500 ml of methanol, 5 ml of phosphoric acid. The sample is determined by HPLC (flow rate 1.0 ml / min, wavelength 244 nm, oven temperature 40 ° C). The injection volume is 10 μl.

to Calibration approx. 5.00 mg Mangostin HF-M 12, weighed exactly, into a 50 mL volumetric flask with methanol (80%).

It Approximately 100 mg extract, weighed exactly, in a 100 mL volumetric flask with 70 ml of methanol (80%) and 15 minutes in an ultrasonic bath solved. After cooling to room temperature is with Methanol (80%) made up to the mark and well homogenized. The sample solution is filtered through a membrane filter and injected 10 μL of it.

K

= Ck·R/FK·100% (Korrekturfaktor)

Fp

= Peakfläche Mangostin der Probe [μV·s]

FK

= Peakfläche Mangostin der Kalibrierlösung [μV·s]

Cp

= Konzentration der Probe in der Untersuchungslösung [mg/mL]

Ck

= Konzentration an Mangostin in der Kalibrierlösung [mg/mL]

R

= Gehalt des verwendeten Mangostins [%]

The evaluation is done via: Fp · K · 100% / Cp =% [m / m] mangostin

K

= Ck · R / FK · 100% (correction factor)

fp

= Peak area mangostin of the sample [μV · s]

FK

= Peak area mangostin of the calibration solution [μV · s]

Cp

= Concentration of the sample in the test solution [mg / mL]

ck

= Concentration of mangostin in the calibration solution [mg / mL]

R

= Content of mangostin used [%]

Prefers takes place by the use according to the invention an increase in ceramide concentration or concentration of cholesterol, preferably at both concentrations, in the skin compared with the ceramide concentration or concentration of cholesterol immediately before use.

The ceramide concentration is determined as in Liebisch et al., Quantitative measurement of different ceramide species from crude cellular extracts by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (ESI-MS / MS), Journal of Lipid Research, Volume 40, 1999 , the concentration of free cholesterol as in Liebisch et al., High throughput quantification of cholesterol and cholesteryl esters by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry (ESI-MS / MS), Biochimica et Biophysica Acta 1761 (2006) 121-128 described.

It Here, it is particularly preferred that the ceramide concentration in the skin after 48 hours by at least 0.1%, preferably by at least 1% and most preferably increased by at least 5%, based on the ceramide concentration immediately before use.

Likewise, it is particularly preferred that the concentration of free cholesterol in the skin after 48 hours by at least 0.1%, preferably by at least 1% and especially before at least 5%, based on the concentration of free cholesterol immediately before use.

Prefers takes place by the use according to the invention a decrease in the phosphatidylcholine concentration in the skin compared to the phosphatidylcholine concentration before use.

The phosphatidylcholine concentration is determined as in Liebisch et al. Erratum to high-throughput quantification of phosphatidylcholine and sphingomyelin by electrospray ionization tandem mass spectrometry coupled with isotope corrections algorithm, Biochimica et Biophysics Acta, 1686 (2004) 108-117 described.

It is hereby particularly preferred that the phosphatidylcholine concentration in the skin after 48 hours by at least 0.1%, preferably by at least 1%, and most preferably reduced by at least 5% to the phosphatidylcholine concentration immediately before use.

Prefers takes place by the use according to the invention an increase in the expression of serine-palmitoyltransferase or the expression of the HMG-CoA reductase compared to the expression of the Serine-palmitoyl-transferase or the HMG-CoA reductase, preferably both enzymes, just before use.

When Measure of the increase in expression of serine-palmitoyl transferase or the HMG-CoA reductase is the increase in this context the number of serine-palmitoyl-transferase or HMG-CoA reductase-encoding mRNA molecules. These is determined as described in Example 5.

One Another object of the invention is the use of an extract from mangosteen for the preparation of a care formulation for human and animal body parts for improvement the skin barrier function.

at the preparation of the care formulation for human and animal body parts for improving skin barrier function are those described above, preferably those described above as preferred Extracts of mangosteen used. The same applies to the Xanthone portion of the care formulation of the invention.

One Another object of the present invention are thus also the Care formulations for human and animal body parts to improve skin barrier function by using of the extract of mangosteen for the preparation of the formulations become.

The Care formulations according to the invention for human and animal body parts for improvement the skin barrier function are preferably characterized that these are cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical formulations represent.

The Care formulations according to the invention for human and animal body parts for improvement the skin barrier function are preferably obtained by the use those described above, in particular those described above as preferred Extracts of mangosteen for the preparation of the care formulations.

The Contain care formulations according to the invention from 0.001% by mass to 20% by mass, preferably 0.01% by mass to 5% by mass, more preferably 0.05% by mass to 2% by mass of extract based on the total weight of the care formulation.

The care formulations of the invention may, for. B. contain at least one additional component selected from the group of
emollients,
Emulsifiers and surfactants,
Thickeners / viscosity regulators / stabilizers,
UV light protection filters,
Antioxidants and vitamins,
Hydrotropes (or polyols),
Solids and fillers,
film formers,
pearlescent,
Deodorant and antiperspirant active ingredients,
insect repellents,
Self,
Preservatives,
conditioners,
perfumes,
dyes,
Biogenic agents,
Care additives,
superfatting agents,
Solvent.

As emollients, all cosmetic oils, in particular mono- or diesters of linear and / or branched mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids having 2 to 44 carbon atoms with linear and / or branched saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, can be used. Likewise, the esterification products of aliphatic, difunctional alcohols having 2 to 36 carbon atoms with monofunctional aliphatic carboxylic acids having 1 to 22 carbon atoms can be used. Furthermore, long-chain aryl esters such. B. esters of benzo acid, for. B. benzoic acid esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alcohols having 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or also benzoic acid isostearyl ester or benzoic acid octyldocecylester. Other monoesters suitable as emollients and oil components are e.g. As the methyl esters and isopropyl esters of fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms such as. As methyl laurate, methyl stearate, methyl oleate, methyl erucate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate possible. Other suitable monoesters are z. For example, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylpalmitat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat, 2-ethylhexyllaurate, 2-Hexyldecylstearat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Oleyloleat, oleylerucate, erucyl oleate and esters from technical aliphatic alcohol cuts and technical aliphatic carboxylic acid mixtures are available, for. As esters of unsaturated fatty alcohols having 12 to 22 carbon atoms and saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12 to 22 carbon atoms as they are available from animal and vegetable fats. But are also naturally occurring monoester or wax ester mixtures such as. B. be present in jojoba oil or sperm oil. Suitable dicarboxylic esters are, for. Di-n-butyl adipate, di-n-butyl sebacate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate, D-isotridecyl acelate. Suitable diol esters are, for. Ethylene glycol di-isotridecanoate, propylene glycol di- (2-ethylhexanoate), butanediol di-isostearate, butanediol di-caprylate / caprate, and neopentyl glycol di-caprylate. Other fatty acid esters that can be used as emollients are, for. C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate. Also suitable as emollients and oil component are longer chain triglycerides, ie, triple esters of glycerol with three acid molecules, at least one of which is longer chain. Here, by way of example, fatty acid triglycerides are mentioned; As such, for example, natural, vegetable oils, eg. As olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, sesame oil, avocado oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, palm oil but also the liquid portions of coconut oil or palm kernel oil and animal oils such. B. shark liver oil, cod liver oil, whale oil, beef tallow and butterfat, waxes such as beeswax, carnauba wax, spermacetol, lanolin and footmouth oil, the liquid portions of beef tallow or synthetic triglycerides of caprylic-capric acid mixtures, triglycerides of technical oleic acid, triglycerides with isostearic acid, or from palmitic acid-oleic acid mixtures as emollients and oil components. Furthermore, hydrocarbons, in particular liquid paraffins and isoparaffins can be used. Examples of usable hydrocarbons are paraffin oil, isohexadecane, polydecene, Vaseline, Paraffinum perliquidum, squalane, ceresin. Furthermore, linear or branched fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol or octyldodecanol, and fatty alcohol ethers such as dicaprylyl ethers can be used. Suitable silicone oils and waxes are, for. As polydimethylsiloxanes, cyclomethylsiloxanes, as well as aryl- or alkyl- or alkoxy-substituted polymethylsiloxanes or cyclomethylsiloxanes. Guerbet alcohols based on fatty alcohols having 6 to 18, preferably 8 to 10, carbon atoms, esters of linear C6-C22 fatty acids with linear C6-C22 fatty alcohols, esters of branched C6-C13 carboxylic acids with linear C6-C22 are examples of further oil bodies Fatty alcohols, esters of C6-C22 linear fatty acids with branched C8-C18 alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol or isononanol, esters of branched C6-C13 carboxylic acids with branched alcohols, in particular 2-ethylhexanol or isononanol, esters of linear and / or or branched fatty acids with polyhydric alcohols (such as propylene glycol, dimerdiol or trimer triol) and / or Guerbet alcohols, triglycerides based on C6-C10 fatty acids, liquid mono- / di- / triglyceride mixtures based on C6-C18 fatty acids, esters of C6-C22 fatty alcohols and / or Guerbet alcohols with aromatic carboxylic acids, in particular benzoic acid, vegetable oils, branched primary alcohols, substituted cyclohexanes, li Neare C6-C22 fatty alcohol, Guerbetcarbonate, esters of benzoic acid with linear and / or branched C6-C22 alcohols (eg. B. Finsolv ^™ TN), dialkyl ethers, ring-opening products of epoxidized fatty acid esters with polyols, silicone oils and / or aliphatic or naphthenic hydrocarbons into consideration.

When Emulsifiers or surfactants can be nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants are used.

As non-ionic emulsifiers or surfactants, compounds from at least one of the following groups can be used:
Addition products of 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear fatty alcohols having 8 to 22 C-atoms, to fatty acids having 12 to 22 C-atoms and to alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C-atoms in the alkyl group, C _12/18 fatty acid _mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 100 mol ethylene oxide with glycerol,
Glycerol mono- and diesters and sorbitan mono- and diesters of saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms and their ethylene oxide addition products, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethylene oxide addition products,
Addition products of 2 to 200 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and / or hydrogenated castor oil,
Partial esters based on linear, branched, unsaturated or saturated C 6 -C 22 fatty acids, ricinoleic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid and glycerol, polyglycerol, pentaerythritol, dipentaerythritol, sugar alcohols (eg sorbitol), alkyl glucosides (eg methyl glucoside, butyl glucoside, Lauryl glucoside) as well as polyglu coside (eg cellulose),
Mono-, di- and trialkyl phosphates and mono-, di- and / or tri-PEG-alkyl phosphates and their salts,
Polysiloxane-polyether copolymers (Dimethicone Copolyols), such as. PEG / PPG-20/6 dimethicones, PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicones, bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 dimethicones, PEG-12 or PEG-14 dimethicones, PEG / PPG-14/4 or 4 / 12 or 20/20 or 18/18 or 17/18 or 15/15,
Polysiloxane-polyalkyl-polyether copolymers or corresponding derivatives, such as. For example, lauryl or cetyl dimethicone copolyols, especially cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (ABIL ^® EM 90 (Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH)), mixed esters of pentaerythritol, fatty acids, citric acid and fatty alcohol according to DE 11 65 574 and / or mixed esters of fatty acids having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, methyl glucose and polyols, such as. As glycerol or polyglycerol, citric acid esters such. Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Glyceryl Oleate Citrate and Dilauryl Citrate.

anionic Emulsifiers or surfactants can be water-soluble making anionic groups such. B. a carboxylate, sulfate, Sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic radical. Skin-compatible anionic surfactants are those skilled in large number known and commercially available. These may be alkyl sulfates or alkyl phosphates in the form of their Alkali, ammonium or alkanolammonium salts, alkyl ether sulfates, Alkyl ether carboxylates, acylsarcosinates and sulfosuccinates and Acylglutamate act in the form of their alkali or ammonium salts.

Also cationic emulsifiers and surfactants may be added. As such, especially quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular those provided with at least one linear and / or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain with 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as alkyltrimethylammonium halides such as z. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide or behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, but also Dialkyldimethylammoniumhalogenide such. B. distearyldimethylammonium chloride be used.

Farther can monoalklyamidoquats such. B. palmitamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or corresponding Dialkylamidoquats be used.

Farther may be readily biodegradable quaternary ester compounds are used, which are quaternized fatty acid esters can act on the basis of mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Farther can Alkylguanidiniumsalze as cationic emulsifiers be buried.

typical Examples of mild, d. H. particularly skin-friendly Surfactants are fatty alcohol polyglycol ether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, Mono- and / or dialkyl sulfosuccinates, fatty acid isethionates, Fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, fatty acid glutamates, ether carboxylic acids, Alkyl oligoglucosides, fatty acid glucamides, alkylamidobetaines and / or protein fatty acid condensates, the latter for example based on wheat proteins.

Farther it is possible to use amphoteric surfactants such. For example, betaines, amphoacetates or use amphopropionates, such. B. substances such as the N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example, the Kokosalkyldimethylammoniumglycinat, N-acylaminopropyl-N, N-dimethylammoniumglycinate, for example, the Kokosacylaminopropyldimethylammoniumglycinat, and 2-alkyl-3-carboxylmethyl-3-hydroxyethylimidazolines each 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat.

Of the ampholytic surfactants, it is possible to use those surface-active compounds which, apart from a C 8/18 alkyl or acyl group in the molecule, contain at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group and are capable of forming internal salts , Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 18 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Further examples of ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C12 / 18 acylsarcosine.

suitable Thickeners are, for example, polysaccharides, in particular xanthan gum, Guar guar, agar-agar, alginates and tyloses, carboxymethylcellulose and hydroxyethylcellulose, and also higher molecular weight polyethylene glycol mono and -di-esters of fatty acids, polyacrylates, (e.g., Carbopols TM or Synthalene ™), polyacrylamides, polyvinyl alcohol and polyvinylpyrrolidone, Surfactants such as ethoxylated fatty acid glycerides, Esters of fatty acids with polyols such as pentaerythritol or trimethylolpropane, fatty alcohol ethoxylates with narrow homolog distribution or alkyl oligoglucosides and electrolytes such as saline and ammonium chloride.

Suitable thickeners for thickening oil phases are all thickeners known to the person skilled in the art. In particular, waxes such as hydrogenated castor wax, beeswax or microwax are to be mentioned. Furthermore, inorganic thickeners can also be used such as silica, alumina or phyllosilicates (eg hectorite, laponite, saponite). These inorganic oil phase thickeners may be hydrophobically modified. For thickening / stabilization of water-in-oil emulsions may in particular aerosils, phyllosilicates and / or metal salts of fatty acids, such as. As zinc stearate can be used.

When Viscosity regulator for aqueous surfactant systems can z. B. NaCl, low molecular weight nonionic surfactants, like cocoamide DEA / MEA and laureth-3, or polymeric, high molecular weight, associative, highly ethoxylated fatty derivatives, such as PEG-200 hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate be included.

For example, organic substances which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and absorb the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg. B. to give off heat again. UVB filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. As oil-soluble UVB sunscreen filters are z. To name, for example:
3-benzylidene camphor and its derivatives, e.g. B. 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor,
4-Aminobenzoic acid derivatives, such as. B.
2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester. Esters of cinnamic acid, e.g. 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester, 2-cyano-3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), esters of salicylic acid such. Salicylic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate,
Derivatives of benzophenone, such as. For example, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, esters of benzalmalonic acid, such as. B.
4-Methoxybenzmalonsäuredi-2-ethylhexyester, triazine derivatives, such as. B. 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and octyltriazone, propane-1,3-diones such. B. 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione.

Suitable water-soluble UVB sunscreen filters are:
2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts,
Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenone, such as. B. 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

When typical UVA sunscreen filters come in particular derivatives of Benzoylmethane such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione or 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) propane-1,3-dione. The UV-A and Of course UV-B filters can also be used in Mixtures are used.

Next the said soluble substances come for this Purpose also insoluble pigments, namely finely dispersed Metal oxides or salts in question, such as titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc), Barium sulfate and zinc stearate in question. The particles should be there a mean diameter of less than 100 nm, e.g. B. between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm. she can have a spherical shape, it can However, such particles are also used, which are ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating from the spherical shape Own form. A relatively new class of sunscreen filters are micronized organic pigments such as 2,2'-methylenebis {6- (2H-benzotriazole-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol} with a particle size of <200 nm, the z. B. as 50% aqueous Dispersion is available.

Further suitable UV sunscreen filters are the overview of P. Finkel in SOFW Journal 122, 543 (1996) refer to.

Next the two aforementioned groups primary UV sunscreen may also be secondary sunscreen of the type The antioxidants used are the photochemical reaction chain interrupt which is triggered when ultraviolet radiation penetrates the skin.

When Antioxidants and vitamins may, for. B. superoxide dismutase, Tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, others Esters of tocopherol, dibutylhydroxytoluene and ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and their salts and their derivatives (eg magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl sorbate), ascorbyl esters of fatty acids, butylated hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, peroxides such as Hydrogen peroxide, perborates, thioglycolates, persulfate salts, 6-hydroxy-2,5,7,8-tetramethylchroman-2-carboxylic acid (TROLOX.RTM), Gallic acid and its alkyl esters, uric acid and their salts and alkyl esters, sorbic acid and its salts, Lipoic acid, ferulic acid, amines (eg N, N-diethylhydroxylamine, Amino guanidines), sulfhydryl compounds (e.g., glutathione), dihydroxy fumaric acid and their salts, glycinepidolate, argininepilolate, nordihydroguaiaretissche Acid, bioflavonoids, curcumin, lysine, L-methionine, proline, Superoxide Dismutase, Silymarin, Tea Extract, Grapefruit Peel / Core Extract, melanin, rosemary extract, thioctanoic acid, resveratrol, Oxyresveratrol, etc. are used.

As hydrotropes, for example, ethanol, isopropyl alcohol or polyols can be used to improve the flow behavior and the application properties. Polyols contemplated herein may have from 2 to 15 carbon atoms and at least two hydroxyl groups. Typical examples are:
Glycerol alkylene glycols, such as ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol and polyethylene glycols having an average molecular weight of 100 to 1000 daltons, technical Oligoglyceringemische with an intrinsic degree of condensation of 1.5 to 10 such as technical Diglyceringemische having a Diglycerine content of 40 to 50 wt. -%
Methylolverbindungen, in particular trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, trimethylolbutane, pentaerythritol and dipentaerythritol, Niedrigalkylgucoside, especially those having 1 to 4 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical, such as methyl and Butylglucosid, sugar alcohols having 5 to 12 carbon atoms, such as sorbitol or mannitol, sugar with 5 bis 12 carbon atoms, such as glucose or sucrose, amino sugars, such as glucamine.

As solids, for example iron oxide pigments, titanium dioxide or zinc oxide particles and those additionally mentioned under "UV protection agents" can be used. Furthermore, particles can be used which lead to special sensory effects, such as nylon-12, boron nitride, polymer particles such as polyacrylate or polymethyl acrylate particles or silicone elastomers. Usable fillers include starch and starch derivatives, such as tapioca starch, distarch phosphate, aluminum or sodium starch octenylsuccinate and pigments which have neither primarily a UV filter effect nor a coloring effect, for example ^® Aerosils (CAS No. 7631-86-9-). ,

When Filmbildner for z. B. Improvement of water resistance can For example, polyurethanes, dimethicones, copolyol, Polyacrylates or PVP / VA copolymer (PVP = polyvinylpyrrolidone, VA = Vinyl acetate). As a fat-soluble film former can be used: z. B. polymers based on polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), copolymers of polyvinylpyrrolidone, PVP / hexadecene copolymer or the PVP / eicosene copolymer.

When Pearlescent additives may, for. B. glycol distearate or PEG-3 Distearate be used.

As deodorant active ingredients in question z. As odor maskers such as the usual perfume ingredients, odor absorbers, for example, in the patent publication DE 40 09 347 layer silicates described, of these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, Beidelit, nontronite, saponite, Ilectorite, bentonite, smectite, furthermore, for example, zinc salts of ricinoleic acid. Germ-inhibiting agents are also suitable to be incorporated. Germ-inhibiting substances are, for example, 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (Irgasan), 1,6-di- (4-chlorophenylbiguanido) hexane (chlorhexidine), 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbonyl, quaternary ammonium compounds oil, clove oil, mint oil, thyme oil, triethyl citrate, farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), ethylhexyl glyceryl ether, polyglyceryl-3 caprylate (TEGO ^® Cosmo P813, Evonik Goldschmidt GmbH), as well as in the patent publications DE 198 55 934 . DE 37 40 186 . DE 39 38 140 . DE 42 04 321 . DE 42 29 707 . DE 42 29 737 . DE 42 38 081 . DE 43 09 372 . DE 43 24 219 and EP 666 732 described effective agents.

When Antiperspirant active ingredients can be used astringents For example, basic aluminum chlorides such as aluminum chlorohydrate ("ACH") and aluminum-zirconium-glycine salts ("ZAG").

When Insect repellents may be, for example, N, N-diethyl-m-toluamide, 1,2-Pentanediol or Insect Repellent 3535.

When Self-tanner can z. B. dihydroxyacetone and Erythrulose be used.

When Preservatives may, for example, mixtures of individual or more alkylparaben esters with phenoxyethanol. at the alkylparaben esters may be methylparaben, ethylparaben, Propylparaben and / or Butylparaben act. Instead of phenoxyethanol can Other alcohols are used, such as benzyl alcohol or ethanol. In addition, other common Preservatives such as sorbic or benzoic acid, Salicylic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, chloroacetamide, Diazolidinyl urea, DMDM hydantoin, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, Sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, methylisothiazoline, chloromethylisothiazoline, Ethylhexylglycerin or caprylyl glycol are used.

When Conditioners may, for. B. organic quaternary Compounds such as cetrimonium chloride, dicetyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium chloride, Distearyldimonium chloride, behentrimonium methosulfate, distearoylethyldimonium chloride, Palmitamidopropyltrimonium chloride, guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, Hydroxypropylguar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, or quaternium-80 or also amine derivatives such. B. Aminopropyldimethicone or Stearamidopropyldimethylamine be used.

As perfumes, natural or synthetic fragrances or mixtures thereof can be used become. Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (bergamot, lemon, Orange), roots, (macis, angelica, celery, cardamom, costus, iris, thyme), needles and twigs (spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, elemi, benzoin, myrrh, olibanum, opoponax) , Furthermore, animal raw materials come into question, such as civet and Castoreum. Typical synthetic fragrance compounds are ester type products, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate, phenylethylacetate, linalylbenzoate, benzylformate, ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate and benzylsalicylate. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, hydrocitronellal, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones z. The alcohols include anethole, citronellol, eugenol, isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol; the hydrocarbons mainly include the terpenes and balsams. Mixtures of different fragrances can be used, which together create an appealing scent. Even essential oils low volatility, which are usually used as aroma components, are suitable as perfumes, eg. B. sage oil, camomile oil, clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. It may include bergamot oil, dihydromyrcenol, lilial, lyral, citronellol, phenylethyl alcohol, α-hexylcinnamaldehyde, geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange oil, allylamyl glycolate, cyclovertal, lavandin oil, muscatel Sage oil, β-damascone, geranium oil bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, evernyl, iraldeine gamma, phenylacetic acid, geranyl acetate, benzyl acetate, rose oxide, romillate, irotyl and floramate, alone or in mixtures.

Dyes which may be used are the substances suitable and approved for cosmetic purposes, as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of the Dye Commission of the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, pp. 81 to 106 are compiled. These dyes are usually used in concentrations of 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-% based on the total mixture.

Under biogenic agents are to be understood as tocopherol, Tocopherol acetate, tocopherol palmitate, ascorbic acid, polyphenols, deoxyribonucleic acid, Coenzyme Q10, retinol, AHA acids, amino acids, Hyaluronic acid, alpha hydroxy acids, isoflavones, Polyglutamic acid, creatine (and creatine derivatives), guanidine (and guanidine derivatives), pseudoceramides, essential oils, Peptides, protein hydrolysates, plant extracts, bisabolol, allantoin, Panthenol, phytantriol, idebenone, licorice extract, glycyrrhizidine and idebenone, scleroglucan, β-glucan, santalbinic acid and vitamin complexes. Examples of plant extracts are chestnut extract, chamomile extract, rosemary extract, black and red currant extract, birch extract, rosehip extract, Algae Extract, Green Tea Extract, Aloe Extract, Ginseng Extract, Ginko Extract, Grapefruit Extract, Calendula Extract, Camphor Extract, Thymus Extract, Mangosteen Extract, Cystus Extract, Terminalia Arjuna Extract, oat extract, oregano extract, raspberry extract, strawberry Extract, etc.

To The biogenic agents can also the so-called barrier Lipids are counted, for which exemplifies Ceramides, phytosphingosine and derivatives, sphingosine and derivatives, Sphinganine and derivatives, pseudoceramides, phospholipids, lysophospholipids, Cholesterol and derivatives, cholesteryl esters, free fatty acids, Lanolin and derivatives, squalane, squalene and related substances to be named.

To The biogenic active ingredients can, for the purposes of the invention also anti-acne such. Benzyl peroxide, phytosphingosine and derrivate, Niacinamide hydroxybenzoate, nicotinaldehyde, retinoic acid and derrivate, salicylic acid and derivatives, citronellic acid etc. and anti-cellulite such. B. xanthine compounds such as caffeine, Theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, carnitine, carnosine, salicyloyl Phytosphingosine, phytosphingosine, santalbinic acid etc. counted, as well as anti-dandruff agents such as Salicylic acid and derivatives, zinc pyrithione, selenium sulfide, sulfur, Ciclopiroxolamine, bifonazole, climbazole, octopirox and actirox etc, as well as astringents such. As alcohol, aluminum derivatives, Ballsäure, Pyridoxinsalicylat, zinc salts such. B. zinc sulfate, acetate, chloride, lactate, zirconium chlorohydrate, etc. Likewise Bleaching agents such as kojic acid, arbutin, vitamin C and derivatives, Hydroquinone, turmeric oil, creatinine, sphingolipids, niacinamide, etc. are counted.

When Care additives may, for. B. ethoxylated glycerol fatty acid esters, such as PEG-7 glycerol cocoate, or cationic polymers, such as polyquaternium-7 or polyglycerol esters be.

As superfatting agent may contain substances such as lanolin and lecithin as well as polyethoxylated or acylated lanolin and lecithin derivatives, Polyol fatty acid esters, monoglycerides and fatty acid alkanolamides be used, the latter also as foam stabilizers serve.

When Solvents may, for. For example, aliphatic alcohols such as ethanol, propanol or 1,3-propanediol, cyclic carbonates such as Ethylene carbonate, propylene carbonate, glycerine carbonate, esters of mono- or polycarboxylic acids such as ethyl acetate, ethyl lactate, dimethyl adipate and diethyl adipate, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerin, glycerin carbonate or water are used.

It It is preferred that the care formulations according to the invention selected as an additional component to contain barrier lipids from the group containing ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids.

Of Furthermore, it is preferred that the invention Nursing formulations as additional components Lipid modulators such as linoleic acid, conjugated linoleic acid, gamma linolenic acid, phytosphingosine, salicyloyl-phytosphingosine, short- and medium-chain ceramides (C1-C10), uronic acid, cholesterol sulphate, Phytosterols, vitamin D, leukotrienes, farnesol, 15-deoxyprostaglandin J2,9-hydroxy octadecadiene acid (9-HODE) are preferred Lipid modulators selected from the group containing creatine, Niacinamide, retinol, arjunolic acid.

invention Nursing formulations may be used as skin care, Face care, head care, body care, intimate care, Foot Care, Hair Care, Nail Care, Dental Care, Lip Care or oral care product. Examples of hair care products are shampoos, hair conditioners, hair conditioners, hair fluid, Hair gel, hair tonic, hair wax, hair lacquer, hair spray, hair cream, hair mousse, Hair balm, anti-dandruff shampoo. Examples of personal care products are shower bath, cream bath, cream gel, shower oil, shower gel, wash gel, Wash scrub, cleansing lotion, face mask, face lotion, facial peeling, Eye cream, night cream, cleansing mask, lotion pads, cleansing wipes, Cleansing Lotion, Cleansing Milk, Cleansing Gel, After Shave Gel, After Shave Balm, Sun Milk, After Sun Products, Self Tanner, Foot Lotion, Foot spray, body lotion, body gel, body spray, Body Milk, Body Scrub, Body Oil, Body Butter.

Examples for lip care products are lip balm, lip cream, Lip balm.

invention Nursing formulations may be used in the form of an emulsion such as oil-in-water (O / W), water-in-oil (W / O) or Water-in-silicone (W / S) emulsions, multiple emulsions such as W / O / W and O / W / O emulsions, also as hydrodispersions or lipodispersions a suspension, a solution, a cream, an ointment, a paste, a gel, an aerosol, a spray, a cleaning product, make-up or sunscreen preparation or a facial tonic or a pen, e.g. B. grease pen or hydrous pen, find.

care formulations according to the present invention have a conditioning effect on the skin and hair. Thus, one is The invention relates to the use of the care formulations for conditioning of skin and / or hair.

Should human hair are permanently dyed, come in the Practice only oxidizing hair dyeing into consideration. Oxidative hair dyeing involves the formation of the dye chromophore by reaction of precursors (phenols, aminophenols, rarer also diamines) and bases (mostly p-Phenyldiamin) with the Oxidizing agent, usually hydrogen peroxide, hydrogen peroxide concentrations; around 6% are usually used. Usually It is assumed that in addition to the coloring effect also a bleaching action by the hydrogen peroxide takes place. In oxidative dyed human hair are similar to bleached hair, microscopic holes in the places, where melanin granules were present, detectable.

oxidant as hydrogen peroxide not only reacts with the color precursors, but also with the hair substance and may under some circumstances cause damage to the hair.

this Damage processes of the skin and hair described above can by the care formulations of the invention be countered.

One Another object of the invention is therefore the use of the invention Nursing formulations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of oxidative stress induced aging and / or hair damage.

As well is therefore the subject of the invention, the use of the invention Care formulations to reduce the environmental toxins caused or UV-induced hair and / or skin damage.

Nursing formulations according to the invention generally have a calming and inflammatory effect Dungshemmend, therefore, another object of the invention is a use of the care formulations of the invention for the non-therapeutic treatment and / or prophylaxis of inflammatory reactions on and / or in the skin.

There the care formulations according to the invention lead to an improvement in the ability of the skin, To hold back moisture is another matter the invention, a use of the invention Care formulations to increase the moisture content the skin, for the reduction and smoothing of skin folds, for even skin color or Creating a uniform appearance the skin surface.

In The examples below are the present Invention described by way of example, without the invention, whose Range of application is the entire description and the claims results in the embodiments mentioned in the examples should be limited.

All percent (%) are, unless otherwise stated, percent by mass.

The following Figures are part of the examples:

1 : Measurements of the teac test

2 : Measured values of the ORAC test

3 : Measurements of total lipid composition

4 : Measurements RT-PCR skin barrier marker

Examples:

Example 1: Preparation of the extract

starting material

The Feedstock, Garcinia mangostana pericarpum, is being transfused a 12 mm sieve to an average extraction size cut from 8-10 mm. The material contains 6.3% polyphenols and 4.5% xanthones.

pre-extraction

to Separation of the dominant polyphenols will be 14.9 kg of drug in two Extracts with 120 L osmosis water at 80 ° C through Percolation extracted exhaustively over 8 h.

The both extracts are separated from the drug, filtered, combined and evaporated on Plattenverdamfer to thick extract. It results in 7.0 kg of thick extract with a dry matter content of 28.5%: The content of polyphenols is 23.1%; the xanthones are left with 0.1% in the extract in the drug.

main extraction

The Remaining, water-moist drug is in two extracts with 90 L 70% (V / V) ethanol (precisely adjusted) at 45 ° C extracted for 8 h. Both excerpts are from the Detached drug, filtered, combined and on Plattenverdamfer to Thick extract also evaporated. The extract yield obtained is included 9%.

Of the Content of polyphenols is 34.5%; the xanthone content is 59%.

purification:

Of the The resulting thick extract is mixed with osmosis water to a dry matter content of 10% redeemed.

The Solution is adjusted to pH 9 with ammonia 25% and Re-extracted with stirring for 2 h.

Of the Watery supernatant is colored by the steady Dissolve the polyphenols (salt form) reddish, the fancy Product cake yellowish.

Subsequently the supernatant is decanted. The remaining product cake is largely insoluble in water (xanthone fraction) and is therefore cleaned by washing with additional osmosis water, until the supernatant solution is almost colorless.

desiccation

Of the Product cake is separated and transferred in a vacuum oven at 50 ° C. Dried for 48 h.

Subsequently The dry, coarse powder is ground over a 0.5 mm sieve. The obtained, yellow, finely powdered xanthone fraction contains 64% xanthones and is virtually free of polyphenols (<1%).

Example 2: Teac Test

The extract prepared according to Example 1 is used below; it has a xanthone content of 60%, determined as described above, and is hereinafter called "xanthone 60%". The antioxidant potential of xanthone 60% was measured by a Teac test Buenger et al .; International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2006, 28, 135-146 , certainly.

Xanthone 60% was dissolved in ethanol at a concentration of 100 mg / l; thus results in a final concentration of 60 mg / l xanthone. For comparison, tocopherol was used at a concentration of 50 mg / l. 1 shows that xanthone 60% has a higher antioxidant capacity than tocopherol.

Example 3: Antioxidative potential after the ORAC method

ORAC (Oxygen Radical Absorption capacity) is an internationally standardized method for the determination of the antioxidant potential. With this method a distinction in hydrophilic and lipophilic portions of the antioxidant effect is possible. For better comparability the total capacity is also given in the unit of the Trolox equivalent (TE). The implementation is described on www.orac-europe.com ,

2 shows that xanthone 60% has an extraordinarily high ORAC potential, which is higher than comparable extracts of grape seed, green tea, sage and cinnamon.

Example 4: Elevation of ceramides and cholesterol

Skin models from SkinEthic RHE, Nice, France are topically topped with a formulation containing 0.5% xanthone 60% for 24 hours. Subsequently, the skin models are irradiated with a dose of 350 mJ / cm2. After a further 48 hours, the extracted lipids are determined by ESI-MS (Electropray Ionization Mass Spectrometry). Duffin K, Obukowicz M, Raz A, Shieh JJ, Electrospry / tandem man spectrometry for quantitative analysis of lipid rmoldering in essential fatty acid deficient mice. Anal Biochem. 2000, 279: 179-88 ,

3 shows the lipid composition of the skin before and after use of the xanthone 60%.

Example 5: Elevation of serine-palmitoyl transferase (SPT) and HMG-CoA reductase

to Characterization of regenerative properties have been reported in the Study skin or epidermis models by SkinEthic RHE, Nice, France topically mixed with xanthone 60% for one hour. Subsequently, the tissue models were defined Damage with SDS (30 μl, 0.25%, 40 minutes) exposed and xanthone 60% applied for another 48 hours. Based on RT-PCR measurements statements about it should be made whether the skin models could be given protection and a barrier-functional effect is present.

Treatment of skin models

The in vitro reconstituted human epidermis models (Reconstructed Human Epidermis RHE / S / 17, Lot 07022A 0809, Skinethic Nice, France) were removed from the cargo packaging and transferred to 6-well cell culture plates each with 300 μL of maintenance medium. After four hours of preincubation at 37 ° C and 5% CO2, the cell culture medium was exchanged for 1000 μL of fresh maintenance medium, and another adaptation phase was overnight at 37 ° C and 5% CO2. On the day of testing, 100 μL 0.2 xanthone 60% solution (dissolved in TEGOSOFT DC (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) or Vehicle (TEGOSOFT DC (Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride) both filtered through 0.45 μm syringe filters) was taken in triplicates The dry stratum corneum of the 3D epidermis models was applied and incubated at 37 ° C. and 5% CO ₂ for a period of 1 hour, after which the excess of test substance was removed from the surface of the reconstituted epidermis , 25% SDS for 40 minutes Finally, the skin models are washed 20 times with PBS buffer.

Subsequently All skin models had a change of media (1000 μL Maintenance Medium).

renewed Application of 100 μl 0.2% xanthone 60% solution for 48 hours. After 24 hours, a medium change takes place. Finally, the skin models in 500 ul Given RNA Later.

medium change occurred: 2.5 h after insertion of the cells into the medium, before administration of the test substance after damage by SDS and after 24 h for viability testing.

When Barrier marker was the expression of genes SPF-1, SPF-2 and HMG CoA reductase determined by RT-PCR as follows:

Isolation of the RNA from the skin models:

The isolation of the total RNA from the skin models is carried out using the RNeasy Mini Kit. For analysis, the frozen skin models are warmed to room temperature and treated with 1 ml of quiazole solution. In the Tissuelyser, the skin model is homogenized for 5 min at 16,000 hertz with a 5 mm steel ball. The solution is allowed to stand for 5 min at room temperature and then treated with 200 .mu.l of chloroform. This solution is mixed for 15 seconds and allowed to stand again for 3 minutes at room temperature. The suspension is centrifuged for 15 min at 4 ° C and 12,000 rpm and the upper phase placed in a new Eppendorf cap. The quantity taken off will be the same Volume taken (about 600 μL) of ethanol (70%). 700 μL of liquid are withdrawn, transferred to a RNeasy mini column and centrifuged for 15 s at 13000 rpm, the liquid can be discarded. The rest of the solution will be dealt with the same way. Subsequently, 700 μL buffer RW1 are added and centrifuged for 15 s at 13,000 rpm, the liquid can be discarded. The columns are placed on a new tube (2.2 ml) and treated with 500 μL Buffer RPE and again centrifuged for 15 s at 13,000 rpm, the liquid is discarded. Now add 500 μL buffer RPE, centrifuge for 2 min at 13,000 rpm, place the transfer columns on 1.5 ml Eppendorf caps (2 ml) and add 50 μL RNase-free water, then at 13,000 rpm for one minute. centrifuged for a few minutes. For measurement, 10 μL of RNA solution is mixed with 90 μL of water and the absorbance is measured at a wavelength of 260 nm. An absorbance (A260) of 1.00 corresponds to a concentration of 50 μg / ml double-stranded DNA, 33 μg / ml short, single-stranded DNA or 40 μg / ml RNA. The remaining 40 μL solution is divided (10 μL each) and stored in the freezer at -80 ° C.

first strand synthesis

With the First Strand cDNA Synthesis Kit for RT-PCR the reverse transcription is performed. There will be each 100 ng RNA from the samples with 1 μL random hexamer (50 μM) and 1 μL DEPC water and make up to volume with water brought from 10 μL. This solution is used at 65 ° C for incubated for five minutes and then for stored for one minute on ice. For testing for systematic Mistakes become water as a blank in all investigations used. Subsequently, each solution becomes one Add 10 μL cDNA synthesis mix, mix the solution 10 minutes at 25 ° C, 50 minutes at 50 ° C and 5 Tempered for minutes at 85 ° C and then stored on ice. For each solution, 1 μL RNase H is given and Incubated at 37 ° C for 20 minutes. The solution can now frozen at -80 ° C or for one PCR measurement can be used.

Preparation of the cDNA Synthesis Mix (Storage at -20 ° C) for the first-strand synthesis:

• 10 x RT buffer [2 μl]
• 25 mM MgCl 2 [4 μl]
• 0.1 M DTT [2 μl]
• RNaseOUT (40 U / μL) [1 μl]
• SuperScript III RT (200 U / μL) [1 μl]

PCR

It 1.5 μL template (cDNA) are taken and the following solutions added:

Template composition for the PCR, primers

• 2 * SYBR Green Master Mix 25 [μl]
• Primer-F (100 pmol / μL) 0.15 [μl]
• Primer R (100 pmol / μL) 0.15 [μl]
• RNase free water 23.2 [μl]
• Initial denaturation: 15 minutes at 95 ° C

amplification:

• Denaturation: 15 s at 94 ° C
• Annealing: 30 s at 50 ° C
• Extension: 30 s at 72 ° C

at a number of 44 cycles followed by melting point determination the duration of the complete PCR was 2.5 hours. The evaluation of the Data was taken with the Opticon Monitor Analysis Software, Version 1.05 from the company MJ Research.

Used oligonucleotides from the company MWG (Forward Primer) Forward Primer Sequence (5'-3 ')
GAPDH 5'-GAA GGT GAA GGT CGG AGT CAA CG-3 '
SPT-1 5'-GCG CGC TAC TTG GAG AAA GA-3 '
SPT-2 5'-AGC CGC CAA AGT CCT TGA G-3
HMG CoA reductase 5'-GCC GTC TTC GGG TTC GT-3 '

Used oligonucleotides from the company MWG (reverse primer) reverse primer sequence (5'-3 ')
GAPDH 5'-AGT OCT TCC ACG ATA CCA AAG TTG-3 '
SPT-1 5'-TGT TCC ACC GTG ACC ACA AC-3 '
SPT-2 5'-CTT GTC CAG GTT TCC AAT TTC C-3 '
HMG CoA reductase 5'-CGG GTG TAG ATG ATA GCC ATG A-3 '

The results in 4 show that xanthone 60% leads to a significant induction of barrier markers in damage in skin models as well as undamaged skin models.

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

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Claims (16)

Use of care formulations for human and animal body parts containing an extract Mangosteen for improving skin barrier function. Use according to claim 1, characterized characterized in that the extract of fruits of the mangosteen tree is won. Use according to claim 1 or Claim 2, characterized in that the extract from the pericarp the fruits of the mangosteen tree is obtained. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Extract is produced by a process comprising the process steps A) at least one, preferably at least two, aqueous extractions of mangosteen plant parts and separating the aqueous Phase, B) at least one organic extraction of the remaining Drug from step A) and C) Purification of in the separated organic phases from process step B) contained xanthones. Use according to claim 4, characterized characterized in that in process step B) the organic extraction with an alcohol, preferably ethanol is carried out. Use according to claim 4 or 5, characterized in that in process step C) the purification the xanthones by removing impurities by aqueous Back extraction, preferably in the basic, one from process step B) obtained xanthone-containing fraction takes place. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the care formulation a xanthone content of at least 0.0006% based on the total care formulation contains. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that a Increased ceramide concentration in the skin compared with the ceramide concentration before use. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that a Increase of the free cholesterol concentration in the skin compared with the free cholesterol concentration before use he follows. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that a Compared with lowering the phosphatidylcholine concentration in the skin with the phosphatidylcholine concentration before use. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that a Increasing the expression of serine-palmitoyl-transferase compared to the expression of serine-palmitoyl-transferase the use is made. Use according to at least one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that a Increasing the expression of HMG-CoA reductase compared with the expression of HMG-CoA reductase before use. Use of an extract of mangosteen for the production a care formulation for human and animal Body parts to improve the skin barrier function. Care formulation for human and animal body parts containing an extract of mangosteen to improve the skin barrier function. Care formulation according to claim 14, characterized in that as an additional component at least one barrier lipid is included. Care formulation according to claim 14 or 15, characterized in that as an additional component at least one lipid modulator is included.