DE102008028821A1 - Cosmetic stick based on a thickened oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion - Google Patents

Abstract

The application relates to cosmetic sticks based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion for application to the skin.

Description

invention relates to cosmetic sticks based on a thickened oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion for the application of cosmetic agents to the skin.

commercial Cosmetic compositions are mostly used as creams or lotions Made to order a crucible, a tube, a bottle or taken from a pump dispenser; There are also roll-on preparations, Sprays and (compact) powder in the market. To please the consumers pen preparations for use both decorative as also nourishing cosmetics of high popularity. They are handy, transport stable and convenient to apply. Increasingly, consumers are experiencing this Need for compositions that, in addition to the basic function, So z. As the covering of blemishes or dulling greasy skin, even more care and treatment effects, z. As by antibacterial or skin-calming agents, and at the same time convey a pleasant, fresh skin sensation. Many stick-shaped preparations are considered anhydrous Formulated suspension sticks. Leave such preparations the user a pleasantly dry skin feeling after the Instruct. An effective release of water-soluble However, active substances from such preparations are limited and it is usually not appreciated by many consumers Fresh feeling achieved. Anhydrous stick preparations, especially those based on volatile silicone oils, have the disadvantage that the dispersed active substances are easy to visible product residue on skin and clothing to lead. In addition, such preparations are relative expensive, because the oil components as a drug carrier more expensive than water. Under the pressure load in the application It often comes to oiling, which is the cosmetic Reduces the acceptance of these preparations by the user.

Opposite anhydrous pens, such as those from US 5733534 and WO 00/67713 A1 have known emulsion sticks, as described for example in WO 98/17238 A1 . US 4814165 . DE 2335 549 . US 4,725,431 . US 5466457 and US 4948578 disclosed, several advantages. Replacement of the wax and oil additives with water makes the emulsion sticks less expensive to produce. The emulsified waxes impart a soft, light skin feel, and finally, water-soluble cosmetic actives can be more easily delivered to the skin since they are already in dissolved form in the aqueous phase of the emulsion. US 20020051758 A1 discloses water-containing antiperspirant sticks without W / O emulsifier and high-melting wax containing a siliconized polyamide as consistency or Structurant. According to claim 1 of WO 02/017870 A2 For example, the aqueous phase forms the internal, ie dispersed, phase so that the disclosed gels are water-in-oil emulsions.

US 20020072506 A1 discloses in some embodiments hydrous antiperspirant sticks based on a water-in-oil emulsion, the acylated cellobiose consistency and Structurant and a high proportion of inventively unfavorable silicone and hydrocarbon oils, neither oil-in-water emulsifiers nor a contain high melting wax.

The Emulsion sticks of the cited prior art are based formulated a water-in-oil dispersion / emulsion, the water-soluble active ingredients lie in the inner, dispersed phase before and must after application first walk through the outer, lipophilic layer, to reach their place of action on the skin. Thus, the known water-in-oil emulsion sticks in terms of Drug availability similar disadvantages like anhydrous suspension pencils.

US 6428776 discloses water and oily, wax-free antiperspirant sticks based on an oil-in-water emulsion. Such pens have inadequate cosmetic properties, leave unpleasant sticky and visible residues, and show insufficient stability for prolonged use. An example with glycerol monostearate as W / O emulsifier and octyldodecanol as an oil component has a medium-firm consistency and a greasy feel on the skin and begins to soften even at 50 ° C.

In WO 99/59537 A1 are disclosed aqueous cosmetic sticks containing wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C, nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers, a nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7 and a polyol. Some of the sticks contain liquid oil components at 25 ° C which, unlike the sticks of the present application, can not be incorporated at the beginning of the emulsion process, but the actual stick mass as a pre-emulsified concentrate, for example as a microemulsion or PIT emulsion, during the cooling phase Stick mass at a temperature of about 55 ° C are added with stirring. Such a production process is necessary in order not to endanger or even destroy the stability of the system, a dispersion of lipid and wax crystals. The pins of the WO 99/59537 A1 were readjusted and their conductivity or their electrical resistance measured. It was found that the pins of the WO 99/59537 A1 is about water-in-oil systems.

US 20030103921 A1 discloses structured antiperspirant compositions in the form of a microemulsion which, depending on the nature and amount of the surfactants, is an oil-in-water microemulsion or water-in-oil microemulsion or bicontinuous phase, but overall the bicontinuous phase predominates. The (transparent) microemulsions are thickened by an oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant." The oil-soluble or oil-dispersible "structurant" is selected from esters and amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, esters and amides of N-acyl amino acids, esters and amides of di- and tricarboxylic acids , Sterols, sterol esters such as oryzanol, cellobiose fatty acid esters, sugar esters such as acylated maltose and non-crosslinked oil-soluble or oil-dispersible polymeric oil phase thickeners such as e.g. B. the commercial product Kraton G. Furthermore, nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 2-15, preferably with an HLB value below 12, are included. Polyols are merely disclosed as optional. At no point is a possible importance of coordinating the solubility parameters of W / O emulsifiers and oil components revealed to each other. The structural difference between these compositions and the oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion sticks of the present invention, which are not microemulsions, is particularly notable for the high proportion of 19-66% by weight of the total composition of unfavorable silicone and silicone resins (paraffinic) hydrocarbon oils which all embodiments disclose.

In the publications DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 are disclosed deodorant or antiperspirant creams based on an oil-in-water emulsion having at 21 ° C a viscosity of at least 50,000 mPa · s, preferably in the range of 200000-1500000 mPa · s, that is, they are present in viscous to highly viscous pasty form. These creams contain wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C, nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers, nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier with an HLB value of more than 7 and a polyol. As soft creams, they can be applied either only with the fingers, which is rejected by many consumers as impractical, or the creams must be filled in special applicators that are significantly more expensive than the pen sleeves for the cosmetic sticks of the invention. Would you like the in DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 compositions which have been heated and mixed after static and that is to say without stirring, would give pen-like compositions having generally unfavorable properties such as poor feel and / or lack of stability, for example phase separation or condensation, since the emulsifiers and the oils are not matched to one another in terms of their solubility parameters as in the present invention. US 20060029624 A1 discloses deodorant or antiperspirant sticks in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion containing at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier with a HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier system having an average HLB value in the range of 10-19, at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, with Water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier can form liquid crystalline structures, as consistency and / or water binders, at least one liquid at 20 ° C liquid, which is not a fragrance component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of contained oils in the presence of linear saturated fatty alcohols as a water-in-oil emulsifier or as part of a water-in-oil emulsifier mixture by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or at most +0 , 7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and in the presence of water-in-oil emulsifiers, which are different from linear saturated fatty alcohols, in the absence of linear saturated fatty alcohols as water-in-oil emulsifier by a maximum of -0, 4 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or maximum +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0 , 5} deviates from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units, 5 to less than 50 wt .-% water, based on the total composition and at least one deodorant or antiperspirant active, which pen has a penetration force in the range of 200-600 gram force (g-force) at a penetration depth of 5.000 mm and an electrical resistance of at most 300 kΩ (kilo ohms). However, it was found that the application behavior of the in US 20060029624 A1 disclosed pins, especially with regard to the lubricity on the skin, could be improved. It was also found that the in US 20060029624 A1 disclosed pins should be improved in terms of their feel and tack. It was found that the range of suitable oil components was too narrow especially for those sticks which did not contain linear fatty alcohol containing at least 8 carbon atoms as W / O emulsifier and some lower sticky and better spreading oil components had not been considered for stability reasons ,

It is an object of the present invention to develop a cosmetic stick composition which can be used as a cosmetic stick composition effective carrier for cosmetic active ingredients and allows rapid release of the active ingredient on the skin.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition to develop with excellent cosmetic care properties.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition to develop, on the one hand, a high stability, the means firmness, but on the other hand a pleasant discharge behavior that is not too tight, but slightly over the skin can be painted while a sufficient amount of product emits.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition to develop as possible when applying to the skin leaves little sticky or visible residue.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition to develop the least visible residues on the clothing that comes in contact with the treated skin, leaves.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition to develop, which can be easily washed off the skin.

A Another object was to provide a cosmetic stick composition with a favorable economic and application technology To develop cost-effectiveness.

A Another object was to provide a stick composition, in particular a deodorant or antiperspirant composition in stick form, to develop a more stable production Pens of suitable consistency allowed.

A Another object was to provide a stick composition, in particular a deodorant or antiperspirant composition in stick form, to develop with a further reduced greasy skin feeling.

• a) mindestens eine Wachskomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, die nicht den Komponenten b) oder c) zuzurechnen ist,
• b) mindestens einen nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 innerhalb eines Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches mit einem mittleren HLB-Wert im Bereich von 11–17,
• c) mindestens einen nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, der mit Wasser allein oder mit Wasser in Gegenwart eines hydrophilen Emulgators flüssigkristalline Strukturen ausbilden kann, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder,
• d) mindestens ein unter Normalbedingungen flüssiges Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt, wobei der (mittlere) Löslichkeitsparameter der Gesamtheit der enthaltenen öle d) um maximal –1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 vom (mittleren) Löslichkeitsparameter des Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgators/der Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren c) abweicht,
• e) mindestens ein wasserlösliches mehrwertiges C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen und/oder mindestens ein wasserlösliches Polyethylenglycol mit 3-20 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten,
• f) 6 bis 75 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung,
• g) mindestens eine Vernetzersubstanz,
• h) einen Gesamtgehalt an nichtionischen und ionischen Emulgatoren und/oder Tensiden mit einem HLB-Wert über 8 von maximal 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Stiftzusammensetzung,
• i) mindestens einen kosmetischen oder dermatologischen Wirkstoff, ausgewählt aus schweißhemmenden, deodorierenden, antimikrobiellen, den Haarwuchs regulierenden, feuchtigkeitsspendenden, die Hautalterung bekämpfenden, entzündungshemmenden, hautberuhigenden, epithelisierenden, keratolytischen, lipolytischen, durchblutungsfördernden, hyperämisierenden, selbstbräunenden, hautaufhellenden sebumregulierenden, färbenden, farbgebenden, mattierenden oder glanzgebenden Wirkstoffen, Vitaminen, Provitaminen und Vitaminvorstufen der Gruppen A, B, C, E und H, und UV-Filtersubstanzen.

Surprisingly and unforeseeable for the person skilled in the art, these objects were achieved by the subject matter of the present application, namely a cosmetic stick composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion which does not constitute a microemulsion

• a) at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c),
• b) at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 11-17,
• c) at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and / or or water binders,
• d) at least one oil which is liquid under normal conditions and which does not represent a perfume component and an essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained d) is maximally -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or maximum + 1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 differs from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers c),
• e) at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units,
• f) from 6 to 75% by weight of water, based on the total composition,
• g) at least one crosslinker substance,
• h) a total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants having an HLB value above 8 of at most 20% by weight, based on the total stick composition,
• i) at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient selected from antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing, epithelial, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulation enhancing, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin lightening, sebum regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or lustering agents, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances.

All information on the states of aggregation of the starting materials used (solid, liquid ...) in this application are based on normal conditions. "Normal conditions" are within the meaning of the present An a temperature of 20 ° C and a pressure of 1013.25 mbar. Melting point data also refer to a pressure of 1013.25 mbar.

The wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C forms with the / the oil (s) and possibly other higher-melting wax components a gel matrix, which can absorb larger amounts of water and polyol. These structures, which are stabilized by certain amounts of water-in-oil emulsifiers and oil-in-water emulsifiers, leave a fresh, cooling impression due to their water content in the application. The emulsifiers are coordinated so that the stick compositions according to the invention are in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion. The stick compositions according to the invention are not present as a microemulsion. To prepare the stick compositions of the invention, the water phase and the oil phase must be heated to a temperature of at least 70 ° C and hot, ie at least 70 ° C, stirred or homogenized together to achieve the emulsion structure of the invention. A manufacturing process, such as in US 4,205,062 disclosed (kneading of fat and water phase at 65 ° C) is not sufficient to obtain a stick composition, in particular a homogeneous stick composition, based on an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the oil-in-water emulsifiers, together with a portion of the water-in-oil emulsifiers, form lamellar liquid crystal phases which are built up with a portion of the water to form a hydrophilic gel phase. This hydrophilic gel phase surrounds the aqueous bulk phase. In turn, in this aqueous bulk phase are dispersed the lipophilic components surrounded by a lipophilic gel phase formed by the water-in-oil emulsifiers with a portion of the oil-in-water emulsifiers and some water.

The Solidification of the cosmetic according to the invention Pens are not based on soap gels, respectively Fatty acid salt gels, whereby among fatty acids alkane, Alkene and alkyric acids having at least 4 carbon atoms, the substituted, for example, with hydroxyl groups, understood become. In a particularly preferred embodiment are the cosmetic sticks according to the invention free of soap gels or fatty acid salt gels, especially free of lithium, sodium, potassium, ammonium, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts of fatty acids.

Surprised it was found that by adding at least one Crosslinker substance, the content of wax component a) with a melting point> 50 ° C, the is not attributable to components b) or c), can be reduced, without the pins of the invention to stability lose. The invention Pins are therefore by a content of at least one crosslinking agent characterized.

By The content of such a crosslinking substance can surprisingly not only the amount of wax component a) with a melting point> 50 ° C, the is not attributable to components b) or c), but it can also the stability of the invention Compositions in particular during the manufacturing and Filling process can be significantly improved. About that In addition, the pins according to the invention have a very smooth, very white surface on and show a uniform homogeneous structure.

at Contact with water (skin moisture, sweat) forms a nourishing O / W cream. The invention Pins have surprisingly good melting and beautiful gliding on the skin, the amount released is optimized. Especially surprising was that already with very low amounts of crosslinking agent high strength and Stability of the pen could be achieved. The raw material savings by replacing a larger amount of wax (s) leads to economic advantages of the invention Pencils.

• – Polyethylenglycolethern der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, darstellen,
• – veretherten Fettsäureethoxylaten der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, darstellen,
• – veresterten Fettsäureethoxylaten der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH₂-O-)_n-C(O)-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, darstellen,
• – Polypropylenglycolethern der allgemeinen Formel R-O-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, darstellen,
• – veresterten Fettsäurepropoxylaten der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-(-CH₂-CH(CH₃)-O-)_n-C(O)-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste und n eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, darstellen,
• – Polypropylenglycolethern der allgemeinen Formel R-O-X_n-Y_m-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste darstellen, wobei X und Y nicht identisch sind und jeweils entweder eine Oxyethylengruppe oder eine Oxypropylengruppe und n und m unabhängig voneinander Zahlen darstellen, deren Summe eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, ist;
• – veretherten Fettsäurepropoxylaten der allgemeinen Formel R-COO-X_n-Y_m-R', wobei R und R' unabhängig voneinander verzweigte oder unverzweigte Alkyl-, Aryl- oder Alkenylreste darstellen, wobei X und Y nicht identisch sind und jeweils entweder eine Oxyethylengruppe oder eine Oxypropylengruppe und n und m unabhängig voneinander Zahlen darstellen, deren Summe eine durchschnittliche Anzahl an Ethylenoxideinheiten pro Molekül von 5 bis 500, bevorzugt 10–400, besonders bevorzugt 20–350, außerordentlich bevorzugt 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, ist;
• – Dendrimeren.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one crosslinker substance which is selected from

• Polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350,
• Etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n is an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350,
• - esterified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350 , represent,
• - Polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', wherein R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350,
• - esterified fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or Alkenyl radicals and n has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, represent
• Polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers whose sum has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350;
• - etherified Fettsäurepropoxylaten of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently, are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers whose sum has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150 , 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350;
• - dendrimers.

Especially preferred crosslinker substances are selected from PEG-150 distearate, PEG-150 dioleate, PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-120 Methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate and PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate. Exceptionally preferred is PEG-150 distearate.

Under a crosslinker substance (hereinafter also abbreviated to "crosslinker") called) is in the context of the present invention, an organic Compound denotes whose molecular structure it - at least theoretically - allows the droplets of the discontinuous oil phase to connect with each other. The molecular structure of the crosslinker substance has at least one central hydrophilic region and on the other hand, at least one terminal hydrophobic region, preferably at least two terminal hydrophobic regions on, with the the emulsified oil droplets in hydrophobic interaction to be able to tread, d. h., for example, in it solve / resolve. Without being tied to this theory to want is - at least for the crosslinking substances with at least two terminal hydrophobic regions - assumed that the length of a central hydrophilic region is sufficient to bridge the distance of the emulsion droplets to each other. The oil droplets can so to speak with each other be networked. Such crosslinker substances sometimes become too referred to as associative thickeners.

at The hydrophilic area (s) may include, but are not limited to Polyethylene oxides, polysaccharides, polyamides and in particular polyacrylamide, Polyester and their mixtures act. As hydrophilic region (s) extraordinarily preferred according to the invention are the polyethylene oxides. The average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of preferred crosslinker substances 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350.

The Binding (s) between the hydrophobic region and the hydrophilic region Range are usually of the ester, ether, urea, amide or Urethane, this list is not limiting to understand. Connections with different bond types between hydrophobic and hydrophilic region may be preferred according to the invention be.

in the In this case, ester and / or ether bonds are hydrophobic and hydrophilic region are particularly preferred.

The Weight ratio of the hydrophilic sequence (s) to the hydrophobic Sequence (s) of the crosslinker substance is preferably in the range from 10/1 to 1,000 / 1.

Particularly preferred crosslinker substances have the formula (NETZ-1): R ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OR ² (NETZ-1)

Further preferred crosslinker substances have the formula (NETZ-2): R ^{1 is} -O-CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) - (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OR ² (NETZ-2)

Further preferred crosslinker substances have the formula (NETZ-3):

Further preferred crosslinker substances have the formula (NETZ-4):

Further preferred crosslinker substances have the formula (NETZ-5): R ¹ -X ¹ - (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n -OR ² (NETZ-5) in which: R ^{1 is} an alkyl group or an acyl group having 8 to 30 carbon atoms which is straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
R ^{2 represents} a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms which is straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
R ^{3 represents} a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or an acyl group having 1 to 30 carbon atoms which is straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated,
n is a number in the range of 80 to 350,
X ^{1 is} a methyl glucose residue.

Preferred alkyl groups having 1 to 30 carbon atoms which are straight-chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated are selected from methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, Tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (palmityl, cetyl), heptadecyl, octadecyl (stearyl), oleyl, nonadecyl, eicosanyl (arachidyl) and behenyl. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radicals are also referred to as cocoalkyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

Preferred alkyl groups of 2 to 30 carbon atoms which are straight or branched, saturated or unsaturated are selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl, undecanoyl -, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, oleoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

The group R ¹ is preferably an acyl group having 12 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular a lauroyl, cocoyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical.

The group R ² is preferably an acyl group having 12 to 20 carbon atoms. Preferably, n is a number from 100 to 300.

The weight ratio of the hydrophilic region (- (O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ ) _n O) and the hydrophobic region (R1 and / or R2) is in the range of 8 to 1000.

It is preferable to use a compound of the formula (NETZ-1) wherein R 1 and R 2 are an acyl group with 12 to 20 carbon atoms and n is a number from 100 to 300. Particularly preferred crosslinkers are selected from PEG-150 distearate, PEG-190 distearate, PEG-175 diisostearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-150 dioleate, and PEG 250 distearate.

Next the still quite clear structures according to formula (NETZ-1) is used for formulas such as (NETZ-2), (NETZ-3), (NETZ-4), (NETZ-5) and similar already difficult, a unique structure set. Thus, a PEG-x glyceryl ester can be the ester function directly on the glyceryl, but also z. B. at the end of a polyethylene oxide unit. Similar difficult is the definition of a likewise preferred crosslinker substance, the PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate. Here is only possible say that this is a diester of oleic acid and methyl glucose, which still has an average of 120 ethylene oxide units per molecule.

Out For this reason, it is waived at this point, general Formulas for inventively preferred Crosslinker substances such as PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-140 glyceryl Tristearate = triester of stearic acid and a polyethylene glycol ether of glycerine with an average of 140 ethylene oxide units per molecule, for example, available under the trade name Eumulgin EO-35 from Cognis, PEG-120 methyl glucose triisostearate = polyethylene glycol ether of the triester of methyl glucose and isostearic acid with an average 120 ethylene oxide units per molecule, for example, available under the tradename Macbiobride MG-120TIS from NOF Corporation, PEG-120 methyl glucose trioleates, available for example as the trade name Glucamate LT Thickener of Noveon, PEG-300 pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, PEG-150 pentaerythrityl tetrastearate (for example, available under the trade name Crothix from Croda), PEG-160 sorbitan triisostearate, PEG-450 sorbitol hexaisostearate, PEG-230 glyceryl triisostearate, PEG / PPG-120/10 trimethylolpropanes Trioleate (= triesters of oleic acid with an alkoxylated Derivative of trimethylolpropane (= common name for 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol) with an average of 120 ethylene oxide units and average 10 propylene oxide units per molecule), in a mixture available with Laureth-2 under the trade name Arlypon TT from Cognis is. Furthermore, the crosslinker of Südchemie is also with the name Purethix 1442 (polyether-1) advantageous. Further Polyurethane crosslinkers can also be used, such as Rheolate 204, 205, 208 (Rheox).

Also Preferably, the crosslinker is PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearates, e.g. B. available under the trade name Arlacel P 135 from Unigema or under the trade name Dehymuls LE of Cognis.

Also the crosslinker PEG-200 HYDROGENATED GLYCERYL PALMITATE is preferred (contained in Rewoderm LI S 80 from Evonik Degussa).

Also Preferably, the crosslinker PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE, included in Antil 141 liquid from Evonik Degussa.

According to the invention preferred Stick compositions are characterized by being at least a crosslinker in a total amount of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.02-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.03-1 Wt%, and most preferably 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8 and 0.9 Wt .-%, based on the total stick composition included.

linear Crosslinker substances of the type (NETZ-1), in particular PEG-150 distearate, PEG-190 distearate, PEG-175 diisostearate, PEG 800 distearate, PEG-150 dioleate, and PEG 250 distearate, and most preferably PEG 150 distearate, are highly effective and effective even in very low concentrations therefore - especially for cost reasons - especially prefers. Their preferred concentrations are 0.01, 0.02, 0.03, 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.2, 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6 wt .-%, each based on total weight in the entire stick composition.

Other Crosslinking substances, such as PEG-200 HYDROGENATED GLYCERYL PALMITATE, PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearates and PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE, are preferably in concentrations of 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3, 1.5, 1.7, 2.0 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition included.

Preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one cosmetic active ingredient is dissolved in the outer, continuous aqueous phase. The O / W emulsion base of the stick compositions of the present invention provides significantly improved and more efficient drug delivery as compared to the known anhydrous suspension sticks and water-in-oil emulsion sticks. This drug release can be determined indirectly very well by the measurement of the electrical Resistance of the respective product. The measurement of the electrical resistance of such compositions is also a suitable method for quickly and easily distinguishing between an oil-in-water and a water-in-oil system. An oil-in-water system has a high electrical conductivity due to the continuous water phase and consequently a low electrical resistance. The exact measuring arrangement and the performance of the measurement are described below (see below). The pins according to the invention accordingly have an electrical resistance of preferably not more than 300 kΩ, more preferably of not more than 100 kΩ, and most preferably of not more than 80 kΩ. In the WO 98/17238 A1 however, disclosed pins have an electrical resistance of more than 3000 kΩ; this is therefore a water-in-oil system.

In addition to the favorable release of active ingredient, the formulation as an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion brings further advantages. First, the composition can be easily washed off the skin. On the other hand, a nourishing oil-in-water cream can form together with the skin moisture during or after application to the skin. Surprisingly, and unforeseeable for the skilled worker, it has been found that the oil components and the water-in-oil emulsifier or the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture must be matched with respect to their solubility parameters in order to pin compositions with applications satisfactory hardnesses form. In the definition of the solubility parameter in the context of the present invention, reference is made to the publication "Solubility Effects in Product, Package, Penetration and Preservation" by Chr. D. Vaughan in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, October 1988, pages 47-69 , The solubility parameter values published there are listed in the non-Sl unit (cal / cm ³ ) ^3.5 . For the sake of simplicity, this non-Sl unit is to be retained in this document. The values can be easily converted using the relation 1 cal = 4.1860 Joule.

Many of those by Vaughan in Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, October 1988, pages 47-69 , tabulated solubility parameters have been calculated according to the Hildebrand equation (see CD Vaughan: J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., Vol. 36, pp. 319-333 (Sept./Oct., 1985) and the Hildebrand equation cited therein as well J. Am. Chem. Soc., Vol. 38, pp. 1442-1473 (1916) and J. Hildebrand and R. Scott: The Solubility of Nonelectrolytes, 3rd Edition, Reinhold Publ. Corp., New York, 1949 ) and summarized below. Vaughan points out that the solubility parameters can not only be calculated according to the Hildebrand equation, but also, for example, with the help of the enthalpy of vaporization (cf. Scatchard, J. Am. Chem. Soc., Vol. 38, page 321 (1916) ). All methods of determination may result in different values of the solubility parameter, especially if the chemical material has an acid or base function.

For the purposes of the present invention, it is preferred that the adjustment of the solubility parameters of the oil components and of the water-in-oil emulsifier or of the water-in-oil emulsifier mixture is carried out only for solubility parameter values which are determined in each case by the same method were. Particularly preferred are the solubility parameter values calculated according to the Hildebrand equation (see CD Vaughan: J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem., Vol. 36, pp. 319-333 (Sept./Oct., 1985) ) were used for the adjustment according to the invention. If no solubility parameter value pair determined by the same method is available for a particular combination of oil component and water-in-oil emulsifier, values determined by various, including experimental, methods may also be used. However, the latter is less preferred according to the invention. Table 1: Solubility parameters of various chemical components (from Cosmetics & Toiletries, Vol. 103, October 1988, pages 47-69) MATERIAL NAME (CTFA) with Dielectric Constant Solubility parameter (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 Ref. MATERIAL NAME (CTFA) with Dielectric Constant Solubility parameter (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 Ref. Cyclohexanes (2.02) 7.30 e Dioctyl ether 7.30 A Eicosans (020) 7:32 C Helium (1.06) 12:50 * N Lanolin Oil 7:33 LI Hydrogen (1.23) 2:50 * N petrolatum 7:33 * 0 Propellant 13 2:59 0 * Behenic Acid 7:35 ID Methane (1.70) 4.70 * 0 Diethyl ether (4.34) 7:37 CO neon 4.90 * N Corn 0il-Refined 7:40 LI perfluorohexane 5.68 A Cetane (016) 7:41 I Perfluoroctane 5.72 A Heptane (1.92) 7:41 CO Cyclomethicone D5 (2.50) 5.77 NOT A WORD Isostearyl Neopentanoate 7:43 M Nitrogen (1.45) 5.90 * N Octyl palmitate 7:44 0 Dimethicone 5.92 * 0 Propyl Fluoride 7:48 C Cyclomethicone D4 (2.39) 5.99 NOT A WORD Rice Oil -SO 7:48 LI Squalane 6:03 NOT A WORD Tridecane (C13) 7:48 CO Propellant 12 (2.13) 6.11 * 0 Propellant 11 (2.28) 7:49 0 Hexamethyldisiloxanes (2.17) 6.15 NOT A WORD Cottonseed Oil 7:52 LI Isocetyl stearate 6.19 Carbon Dioxide (1.60) 7.53 H Squalene 6.19 NOT A WORD Isopropyl linoleate 7:55 M polytetrafluoroethylene 6.20 Cod Liver Oil 7:56 L1 Propane 6.21 * 0 Erucic acid 7:57 CD Propellant 22 (6.11) 6.23 NOT A WORD octane (1.95) 7:58 NOT A WORD perfluorodecalin 6:34 A Cetyl octanoate 7:59 M neopentane 6:38 CO Decene-1 7:59 C Safflower oil 6:42 LI Dodecene (2.01) (7.65-I) 7:59 C Melena (C30) 6:58 C Diethylhexyl adipate 7.60 M Docosane (C22) 6.60 I Decane (1.99) 7.62 CD Almond Oil 6.81 LI C12-15 Alcohols Benzoate 7.63 MD Isopentane 6.82 CO Isobutyl stearate 7.65 0 Avocado oil 6.83 LI Butyl myristate 7.68 D Nonacosans (D29) 6.83 C Butyl stearate (3.11) 7.68 CO Arachidic acid 6.85 H Stearic Acid (C18) (2,30) 7.74 IO pristane 6.85 MD Dioctyl maleate 7_75 0 Decyl Oleate 6.92 Octyl fluoride 7.76 AG C8 isoparaffin (1.94) 6.93 NOT A WORD Isopropyl palmitate 7.78 0 Diisopropyl ether (3.88) 6.95 ICE Dioctyl adipate 7.82 M Argon (1.53) 7:00 * N Oleth-3 7.83 * 0 Sperm Oil 7:09 * 0 Diethyl amine 7.86 C White mineral oil 7:09 * 0 Linolenic Acid 7.86 CO pentanes 7.10 * 0 Olive oil 7.87 * 0 Tricosane (C23) 7.13 C Palmitic Acid (C16) (22.30) 7.89 ID Isodecyl oleates 7.17 M Oleic acid (2.46) 7.91 10 Propellant 113 7.19 H PEG-4 stearates 7.92 0 Oxygen (1.50) 7.20 * N Tetraethyl Lead 7.92 e Cholesterol Oleates 7.24 atedecyl neopentanoate 7.92 LI Peanut oil 7.74 L1 Pentaerythrityl tetraoleate 7.98 LI Hexanes (1.88) 7.28 CO Tocopheryl acetate 7.98 M Linseed Oil 7.29 * 0 Ethyl myristate 8:00 C Octadecane (C18) 7.29 C Isopropyl myristate 8:02 0 Stearyl Alcohol (C18) 8.90 10 Terpentine (pines) (2.70) 8:03 CO Methyl hexyl ketones 6.91 A Human erythrocytes 8:05 Octyl dodecanol 8.92 OM Methyl Oleate (3.21) 8:05 CO Butyl acetate (5.01) 8.93 CO Cetyl Acetate 8:06 0 Cetyl Alcohol (CIG) 8.94 10 Methyl linoleate 8:08 C alpha-thujone 8.94 A Isostearic acid 8:09 0 Toluene (2.38) 8.94 C Coconut Oil 8.10 L1 Oleyl Alcohol 8.95 CO Myristic Acid (C14) 8.10 10 Propylene oxides 8.99 A dibutylamines 8.15 * Aspergillus niger 9:00 P Eucalyptol (cineole) 8.17 L1 Octyl Dimethyl PABA 9.34 g 9:01 OM Natural rubber 8.20 H Propyl Acetate 9:02 CO octylamine 8.21 A chloroform 9:05 A Propylene Glycol Dipelargonate 8.21 LI Benzene (2,28) 9:08 8th Titanium isopropoxide 8.21 M PEG-20 stearates 9:08 33 Melissyl Alcohol (C 30) 8.22 CO Ceteth-20 9.10 H Glycol distearate 8.24 J3 Methyl butyl methacrylate CO 8.10 M Glycol Stearate 8.28 J3 Octyl Methoxycinnamate 9.10 M Capric / Caprylic triglyceride 8.29 Li Methyl butyl ketones 9.11 e Isosteareth-2 8.29 LI Myristyl Alcohol (C14) 9.16 10 PPG-2 myristyl ether 8.29 LI Polysorbate-20 9.16 33 Ricinoleic Acid 8.30 C THE (7.58) 9.16 Staphylococcus aureus 8.30 P BHT 9.17 0 Glyceryl isostearates 8.31 J3 tocopherol 9.17 H Glyceryl Stearate (mono) 8.31 * 0 Lauryl Lactates 9.18 M Laureth-4 8.31 33 PEG-40 Stearates 9.18 J3 Limonene (2,30) 8:33 C Ethyl Acetate (6.02) 9.19 CO Propylene Glycol Lau rate 8:33 LI Tributyl citrate 9.20 M Octyl mercaptan 8:35 K Ethyl acrylates 9.22 A PEG-2 stearates 8:36 J3 propionaldehyde 9.22 A Ethyl Caprate (C10) 8:39 A Methyl Propyl Ketones 9.27 C radon 8:40 * N Dipropyl nitrosamines 9.29 Amyl acetate 8:43 C alpha-bisabolol 9.30 M Glyceryl Stearate SE 8:43 J3 Pseudomonas aeroginosa 9.30 P Diisopropyl Adipate 8:46 E0 Trichomonas ment. 9.30 P Lauric Acid (C12) 8:46 10 Caprylic Acid (C8) (2.45) 9:32 60 Polyethylenes (2,35) 8:50 '' 0 Cetyl lactates 9:32 pi Diisopropyl amines 8:51 * 0 PEG-100 stearates 9:35 33 Polyglycerine 1-3 Oleate 8:52 J3 Trimethyl citrate 9:39 H Ethylene / vinyl acetate (AC400) 8:55 * 0 Klebsiella pneumoniae 9:40 P Ethyl Caprylate (C8) 8:57 A Methyl methacrylate copolymer 9:40 H Octyl Acetate 8:58 A Nicotine 9:40 C Octyl iodides 8:58 A Camphor 9:45 C Ethyl Oleate (3.17) 8.60 Oxidized Polyethylene (AC392) 9:50 * 0 Isopropylbenzene (12.38) 8.60 * Lauryl Alcohol (C12) 9:51 CO Sorbitan laurate 8.61 0 Pulegone 9:51 A Behenyl Alcohol (C22) 8.63 ID cholesterol 9:55 0 Carbon Tetrachloride (2.23) 8.64 C Ethylene / vinyl acetate (AC430) 9.55 * 0 Butyl mercaptan $ 08.06 Methylene chlorides (9.08) 9:55 e Isostearyl alcohol 8.67 0 Dimethyl Isosorbide 9:58 M Lauraldehyde 8.66 A PPG-2 methyl ether 9.60 Ethyl Caproate (C6) 8.69 A Acetaldehyde (21.8) 9.61 A Cholesteryl propionates 8.70 * Undecyl alcohol 9:51 CO Isocetyl alcohol 8.71 M linalool 9.62 C Bornyl acetate 8.74 CA MEK (18.50) 9.53A 9.63 CO Ethyl mercaptan 8.75 K acetylacetones 9.88 M Decanone-2 8.76 A Amyl dimethyl PABA 9.72 C octanal 8.77 C Methyl iodides 9.75 CO Trifluoroactylacetone 8.77 A Decyl Alcohol (C10) (8.10) 9.78 Cholesteryl myristates 8.80 * Chlorine 9.80 Zinc stearate 8.80 0 ethylhexanol 9.80 A Citronella 8.83 CD Stratum corneum porcine 9.80 Diethyl ketone (17.00) 8.85 e Acetone (20.70) 9.87 C Methyl isobutyl ketone (14.70) 8.85 EO Citronellol 9.88 A Oxidized Polyethylene (AC629) 8.85 * 0 Dibutyl Phthalates (6.44) 9.88 M Methyl heptyl ketones 8.86 A Menthyl anthranilate 9.89 M Myristyl lactate 8.87 M PPG-4 9.89 M Capric Acid (C10) 8.88 10 Ethoxyethanol (29.60) 9.90 * M Methyl Caproate (CB) 8.88 B Ethylene oxides (13.90) 9.93 A Arachidyl Alcohol (C20) 8.89 CO menthol 9.94 CO Dipropyl ketones 8.89 C tributyrin 9.97 0 Muscone 8.89 CO Butoxydiglycol-Bucarbitol 9.98 Candida albicans 8.90 P Nitrous oxides (1.60) 10:00 *H Castor oil 8.90 H Dioxane (2.21) 1.10 * Elaidyl Alcohol 8.90 CO Ethyl Benzoate (6.02) 10.01 C beta-Ionone 8.90 CO Caproic Acid (C8) (2.53) 5.10 80 Polystyrene 8.90 M Salicylic Acid 6.10 C Nicoteine 8.10 C Copper acetyl acetonide 11.60 Octanol / Caprylic (C8) Alcohol (10:34) 9.10 CO Acetic anhydrides (22.40) 10.12 C sulfamethoxazole 11.60 Jr nerol 10:13 C PEG-4 (20,44) 11.61 DO Ethyl cinnamate 10:14 A acetohexamide 11.64 Diethyl nitrosamines 10:16 C N-methylpyrrolidone 11.71 A Octyl salicylates 10:17 m Propyl Alcohol (20.10) 11.73 CO griseofulvin 10:20 M Dimethyl Nitrosamine 11.74 C Dioctyl malate 10:21 M pentobarbital 11.75 31 geraniol 10:21 CO Butadienes diepoxides 11.78 A Butyl lactates 10:27 AO Dipropylene Glycol (PPG-2) 11.78 M t-butyl alcohol (10.90) 10:28 CO phthalides 11.78 C Morpholine (7.33) 10:28 C Lysine 11.79 31 Homosalate 10:29 GM Phenethyl alcohol 11,70 CO Valeric acid (C5) 10:29 A Acetonitriles (37.5) 11.81 AO Polyethylene Terephthalate (PET) 10:30 * Cinnamic Acid 11.83 C Pyridines (12.3) 10.30 A p-Nitrotoluenes (24.20) 11.83 Phenyl Acetate (5.23) 10:33 phenoxyethanol 11.87 CO Thiolacetic acid 10:38 A Butobarbital 11.90 31 methoxypropanol 10:40 sulfadiazine 11.90 Diethyl toluamides 10:46 M butalbital 11.05 31 Nonoxynol-1 10:47 * Cinnamyl Alcohol 11.96 C borneol 10:48 C Sorbic Acid 11.97 NOT A WORD Methyl Benzoate (6.59) 10:48 e methylparaben 11.98 0 Hexyl Alcohol (13.30) 10:50 ICI hydroxyanisole 12:00 C SAN (85/15) 10.50 * Benzocaine 5.12 Butoxyethanol (9.30) 10:53 e Triethylene glycol (23.69) 12:21 NOT A WORD Formaldehyde 10:54 C Alanine 12:23 31 o-Nitrotoluenes (27.40) 10.55 Nitromethane 12:27 C Butylparaben 10:57 * Benzyl Alcohol (I3.10) 12:31 0 propionitrile 10:52 A Hexylene glycol 12:32 * Tripropylene Glycol (PPG-3) 10.60 M butyramides 12:33 A Methyl salicylates (9,41) 10.62 Co Human serum albumin A 12:33 J1 Acetophenones (17.39) 10.64 C vanillin 12:34 D Diacetone Alcohol (18.20) 10.67 CO BHA 12:37 0 Ethyl anthranilates 10.67 C Acetic acid (6.15) 12:40 CO naphthylene 11.74 8th Cyclobarbitone 12:40 J1 phenylpentanol 10.74 A diisopropanolamine 12:40 A Butyric Acid (2.97) 10.76 e Ethyl dihydroxypropyl PABA 12.42 M Cyclopentanones 10.77 o-Propylene diamines 12:43 0 thymol 10.77 C p-Oinitrobenzene 12:49 B triacetin 10.77 0 Ethyl Alcohol (24.30) 12:55 CO Methoxyethanol (16.90) 10.80 * Rat well membrane 12.60 Amyl Alcohol (13.90) 10.84 CE sulfamethazine 12.60 J1 ethanedithiol 10.87 A Sulfisomidinc 12.70 31st Ethyl hexanediol 10.89 A Sulfur (3.55) 12.70 Trichloroacetic acid 10.89 e Phenol (9.78) 12.79 CE benzalphthalides 10.90 0 * Sulfisomidine 12.60 Testosterone 10.90 allobarbital 12.85 31 cinnamaldehyde 10.92 C o-nitroanilines (34.50) 12,80 0 Propylparaben 10.94 GM Pyruvic acid 12.94 * valine 10.94 J1 phenobarbital 13:00 31st Tolbutamide 10.98 isopropanolamines 2.13 A Benzaldehydes (17-80) 11:00 CO Adipic acid 4.13 0 Triisopropanolamine 2.11 M BAL (2,3-dimercapto-1-propanol) 13.10 phenylbutanol 4.11 A Sulfathiazole 13:10 D & C Red 22 (Eosin) 11:15 L. Glutathione 13:18 G Butyl Alcohol (17.51) 11:18 CR Butylene glycol 13,20 CO Cellulose Acetates 11:20 m m-Nitroaniline 13:23 C Methyl anthranilates 11:22 C Triethanolamine (29.36) 13.28 NOT A WORD Caproamide (C6) 11:24 M Propylene Carbonates (65,00) 13:35 Isopropyl Alcohol (18,30) 11:24 CO benzamides 13:38 B nitrocellulose 11:25 NOT A WORD Dimethyl Sulfoxide (46.68) 13.40 H hexobarbital 11:30 31 Sulfamerazine 13:40 31 secobarbital 11:30 31 propionamide 13.46 AC p-anisaldehyde 11:32 A barbital 13:50 31 PEG-8 11:34 NOT A WORD mercaptoethanol 13:55 A panthenol 11:39 NOT A WORD propiolactones 13.56 A Propionic Acid (3.35) 11:40 EA Diethylene Glycol (31.70) 13.61 ED glyoxal 11:46 C Propargyl alcohol 13.61 A phenylpropanol 11:46 A p-nitroanilines (56,30) 13.67 A Methyl lactates 11:47 CO Caffeine 13.80 PEG-6 (16.00) 11.47 00 thiodiglycol 13.80 H Thioglycolic acid 13.86 A PEG-5 (18.16) 11:54 00 sulfameter 13.90 J1 phenylalanine 11:57 G Diethanolamine 13.95 M Propylene Glycol (32.00) 14:00 CO pyrrolidones 14:00 * theophylline 14:00 Hexyl resorcinol 6.14 * Aspartic Acid 14:11 J1 Sodium Lauryl Sulfate 14:18 * Pyrrolidinone-2 14:22 Methyl Alcohol (32.70) 14:33 CO Ethylene Glycol (37.00) 14:50 CO urea 14:50 G Hydroquinone 14.62 Formic Acid (58.5 14.72 e Lactic Acid (22.00) 14.81 PABA 14.56G 14.82 DO resorcinol 14.96 C Acetamide MEA 15:11 J1 histidine 15:25 J1 p-hydroxybenzoic acid 15:30 * Ethanolamines (37.72) 15:41 * M pyrogallol 15:41 A Sodium Capryl Sulfate (14.84) 15.80 * Acetamide (59.00) 3.16 C erythritol 6.16 * Glycerine (42.50) 16:26 E0 Formamide (109.0) 17.82 e Ammonia (16.90) 18.5 0 lactose 19:50 * Water (80.10) 23:40 CN

references

• A. Aldrich Chemical Co, Catalog 1986 gram
• B. Beilstein's Index
• C. Chemical Rubber Handbook of Chemistry & Physics, 42d Ed., (1961–1962)
• D. Dictionary of Organic Compounds
• E. Eastman Organic Chemical Bulletin 47, No.1, 1975
• F. Fisher Scientific Catalog – 1986
• G. Group Contribution Method of Hay, Van Krevelen and Feodors.
• H. HANDBOOK OF SOLUBILITY PARAMETERS, A. F. Barton, Chemical Rubber Publ. 1985
• I. INDUSTRIAL WAXES, H. Gennett, Chemical Pub. Co.
• J. Journal Reference by number 0(x).
• J1. J. Pharm. Sci. 75, (7), 639
• J2. Pharm. Acta Helv., 48, 549 (1973)
• J3. Am. Cosmet. Perf., 87, Seite 85 (1972)
• K. Kolthof & Elving: Treatise an Analytical Chemistry
• L. Laboratory Determination by L(1)-Consolubilizer Study L(2)-Solubility Study Unpublished
• M. Manufacturer's Physical Date by Personal Communication
• N. Hildebrand & Scott: The Solubility of Nonelectrolytes. Dover Press
• O. Original published values JSCC 36, 319
• P. Pharm. Acta Helv. 81, (3), 95 Antimicrobial Activity and Solubility Parameters-C. V./F. W.

NOTE: * = Solubility parameter values from the literature Citation information for the origin of the solubility parameters:

• A. Aldrich Chemical Co, Catalog 1986 gram
• B. Beilstein's Index
• C. Chemical Rubber Handbook of Chemistry & Physics, 42d Ed., (1961-1962)
• D. Dictionary of Organic Compounds
• E. Eastman Organic Chemical Bulletin 47, No.1, 1975
• F. Fisher Scientific Catalog - 1986
• G. Group Contribution Method of Hay, Van Krevelen and Feodors.
• H. HANDBOOK OF SOLUBILITY PARAMETERS, AF Barton, Chemical Rubber Publ. 1985
• I. INDUSTRIAL WAXES, H. Gennett, Chemical Pub. Co.
• J. Journal Reference by number 0 (x).
• J1. J. Pharm. Sci. 75, (7), 639
• J2. Pharm. Acta Helv., 48, 549 (1973)
• J3. At the. Cosmet. Perf., 87, page 85 (1972)
• K. Kolthof & Elving: Treatise on Analytical Chemistry
• L. Laboratory Determination by L (1) -Consolubilizer Study L (2) Solubility Study Unpublished
• M. Manufacturer's Physical Date by Personal Communication
• N. Hildebrand & Scott: The Solubility of Nonelectrolytes. Dover Press
• O. Original published values JSCC 36, 319
• P. Pharm. Acta Helv. 81, (3), 95 Antimicrobial Activity and Solubility Parameters-CV / FW

In the stick compositions according to the invention, the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained differs by a maximum of -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or at most +1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , preferably by a maximum -0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or at most + 0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , more preferably by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or maximum +0.7 (cal / cm ^{3) 0.5,} extraordinarily preferably by a maximum of 0.6 (cal / cm ^{3) 0.5} and a maximum of +0.4 (cal / cm ^{3) 0.5} from the (average ) Solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers.

If Water-in-oil emulsifier mixtures or oil mixtures are used, the average solubility parameter considered the mixture, wherein the arithmetic mean according to the Weight ratio of the individual components is considered.

In the context of the invention, it is further possible for a proportion by weight of the oils used under normal conditions of not more than 20% by weight to consist of oils whose solubility parameter is greater than -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or more than +1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 deviates from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier (mixture) s. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, there are no oils which are liquid under normal conditions and whose solubility parameter is more than ± 1.2 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0.5 of} the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / of the water. deviates in oil emulsifiers.

wax matrix

The Wax matrix of the stick compositions of the invention comprises at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, the not the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers with a HLB value of more than 7 or the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic Emulsifier can form liquid crystalline structures, attributable to.

As a general rule are waxes of firm to brittle hard consistency, coarse to fine crystalline, translucent to opaque, but not vitreous, and melt above 50 ° C without decomposition. you are already slightly above the melting point of low viscosity and show a strong temperature-dependent consistency and solubility.

Preference according to the invention, for example, natural vegetable waxes, z. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. To the syn Thetic waxes which are likewise preferred according to the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C _30-50 alkyl beeswax and alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids.

A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid. According to the invention, lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have been found to be particularly advantageous for the composition of the present invention because they give the antiperspirant preparation excellent sensory properties and overall high stability to the pin. The esters are composed of saturated, branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated, branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Also esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols can be used according to the invention, provided that the wax component has a melting point> 50 ° C. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated, branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated, branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms, which has a melting point > 50 ° C.

In particular, C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates and C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C _20-40 alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate may be advantageous as the wax component. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on.

A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K82H or Kesterwachs ^® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc..

Further preferred wax components having a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _12-30 fatty acids such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12-hydroxystearate synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols or polyols having 2-6 carbon atoms, as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example preferably C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ Acid triglycerides (Syncrowax ^® HGL-C).

According to the invention hydrogenated castor oil, obtainable, for example, as wax component is available. B. as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, particularly preferred.

Further preferred wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, eg. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ fatty acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid).

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ Alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid. Further particularly preferred wax component mixtures a) are selected from mixtures of C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -alkyl stearate, hardened castor oil, palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from mixtures of esters of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, in particular C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular hydrogenated castor oil, and saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular palmitic acid and stearic acid.

Further preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the wax component / na) in total in amounts of 2.5-20% by weight, preferably 6.5-14% by weight, most preferably 9-13% by weight, based on the total composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the ester (s) are / are prepared from a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid which represent wax components a) in amounts of 1, 5-10 wt .-%, preferably 2.5-6 wt .-%, most preferably 3-5.5 wt .-%, based on the total composition, wherein also values between 3.5 and 5.5 wt .-%, in particular 4.0, 4.2, 4.4, 4.5 4.6, 4.8, 5.0, 5.2 and 5.4 wt .-%, may be particularly preferred.

Oil-in-water emulsifiers

The stick compositions of the invention contain at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB of greater than 7, with the total oil-in-water emulsifier system having a weight-average (weight-average) HLB in the range of 11-17. These are emulsifiers which are generally known to the person skilled in the art, as are described, for example, in US Pat Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd ed., 1979, Vol. 8, pp. 913-916 , are listed. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent. In selecting nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the weight-average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier system is 11-17, preferably 12-15 and particularly preferably 13-14. In order to achieve such HLB values, preference is given to combining oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and optionally 15-17. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures (or oil-in-water emulsifier systems) may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 17-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the sticks according to the invention, in particular the deodorant or antiperspirant sticks, may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value in the range of 11-17, preferably 12-15 and more preferably 13-14, included.

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers b) are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with an average of 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those of myristic, palmitic, stearic or mixtures thereof Fatty acids, silicone copolyols with ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues esterified, provided they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol , Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable.

The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ O is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the mitt Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid , Petroselic, arachidic, gadoleic, behenic, erucic and brassidic acids and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate.

Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-10, ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth- 30, steareth-10, steareth-12, steareth-20, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-30, laureth-12 and beheneth-20.

Preferred having an average of 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated are selected from Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-40, Polysorbate-60 and Polysorbate-80.

Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1-2, especially 1.2-1.4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers. Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol.

Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred are Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat , Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglycer intrioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate.

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier b) in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt .-%, more preferably 1-4 Wt .-% and most preferably 1.5-3 wt .-%, based on the total composition, wherein values between 1 and 1.5, in particular 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 wt .-%, especially may be preferred.

Water-in-oil emulsifier

The stick compositions according to the invention also contain at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier Bodying agent and / or water binder. The water-in-oil emulsifier (s) primarily contribute to the formation of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase. In principle, emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are suitable nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these emulsifiers are for example in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 , listed. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated.

• – lineare gesättigte Alkanole mit 12-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit 16-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Behenylalkohol und Lanolinalkohol oder Gemische dieser Alkohole, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhältlich sind,
• – Ester und insbesondere Partialester aus einem Polyol mit 2-6 C-Atomen und linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 C-Atomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Solche Ester oder Partialester sind z. B. die Mono- und Diester von Glycerin oder Ethylenglycol oder die Monoester von Propylenglycol mit linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen mit Palmitin- und Stearinsäure, die Sorbitanmono-, -di- oder -triester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren, die Pentaerythritylmono-, -di-, -tri- und -tetraester und die Methylglucosemono- und -diester von linearen, gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, wovon besonders bevorzugt sind die Mono-, Di-, Tri- und Tetraester von Pentaerythrit mit linearen gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können, sowie Mischungen hiervon, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sind die Mono- und Diester. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäurereste sind ausgewählt aus Laurinsäure-, Myristinsäure-, Palmitinsäure-, Stearinsäure-, Arachinsäure- und Behensäure-Resten; besonders bevorzugt ist der Stearinsäurerest. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 sind ausgewählt aus Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythrityldistearat, Pentaerythrityltristearat, Pentaerythrityltetrastearat, Ethylenglycolmonostearat, Ethylenglycoldistearat und Mischungen hiervon;
• – Sterine, also Steroide, die am C3-Atom des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, z. B. Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie auch aus Pflanzen (Phytosterine, z. B. Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) und aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine) isoliert werden und die niedrig ethoxyliert (1-5 EO) sein können;
• – Alkanole und Carbonsäuren mit jeweils 8-24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16-22 C-Atomen, in der Alkylgruppe und 1-4 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, die einen HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 aufweisen,
• – Glycerinmonoether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-30, insbesondere 12-18 Kohlenstoffatomen,
• – Partialester von Polyglycerinen mit n = 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten und mit 1 bis 5 gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäureresten verestert, sofern sie einen HLB-Wert von kleiner/gleich als 7 aufweisen,
• – sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen.

Preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers are:

• Linear saturated alkanols with 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular with 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol and lanolin alcohol or mixtures of these alcohols, as obtainable in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids,
• - Esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 2-6 C-atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C-atoms, which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. The mono- and diesters of glycerol or ethylene glycol or the monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or of mixtures of these fatty acids, the pentaerythrityl mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters and the Methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, of which the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with 12-30 linear saturated fatty acids are particularly preferred, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency and / or water binders. Particularly preferred according to the invention are the mono- and diesters. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof;
• Sterols, ie steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol ) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO);
• Alkanols and carboxylic acids having in each case 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, Have 0,
• Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms,
• Partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters, provided they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7,
• - And mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate.

Particularly advantageous water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, in particular in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl distearate, glyceryl monocaprinate, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, glyceryl monohydroxystearate, glyceryl monooleate, Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), steareth-5 , Oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerin dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerin diols at, triglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol monostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerol pentahydroxy stearate, decaglycerol pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate.

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier c) having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, liquid crystalline with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier Structures is selected from linear, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ alkanols, ethylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, glycerol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, propylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, sorbitan mono-, di- and triesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, pentaerythrityl mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of linear, saturated and the like; unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, sterols, alkanols and carboxylic acids of 8-24 C each Atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule which have an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and having 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ Fatty acid residues esterified, provided they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic / water-in-oil emulsifier / s c) with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, the / with water alone or can form liquid-crystalline structures with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, selected from the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of ethylene glycol or pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22, carbon atoms, which can be hydroxylated. According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. The water-in-oil emulsifier (s) primarily contribute to the formation of the lipophilic gel phase surrounding the dispersed lipid / wax / oil phase as well as, albeit to a lesser extent, the hydrophilic gel phase which stabilizes the aqueous phase. The particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are, for example, commercially available products Cutina PES (INCI: pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina AGS (INCI: glycol distearate) or Cutina EGMS (INCI: Glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contained). According to the invention it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. A commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is meant, for example, a technical mixture.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention Pens are characterized in that the nonionic Water-in-oil emulsifier (s) c) with an HLB value greater 1.0 and less than or equal 7.0, the one with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, liquid-crystalline structures can form, in a total of 0.1-15 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-8 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 1-4 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Composition, is / are included. You can also continue Amounts of 2-3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Composition, according to the invention extraordinarily be preferred, with special consideration of levels of 2.1, 2.2, 2.3, 2.4, 2.5, 2.6, 2.7, 2.8 and 2.9 wt%, respectively based on the total weight of the composition.

The following table summarizes various oil-in-water emulsifiers and water-in-oil emulsifiers and their HLB values. However, the HLB values can also be calculated according to Griffin, as described, for example, in the ROMPP Chemie Lexikon, in particular in the online version of November 2003, and the manuals cited by Fiedler, Kirk-Othmer, and "HLB-System" there Yes nistyn is represented or tabulated. If there are different details in the literature about the HLB value of a substance, that HLB value should be used for the teaching according to the invention which comes closest to the value calculated according to Griffin. If no definite HLB value can be determined in this way, the HLB value which the manufacturer of the emulsifier specifies must be used for the teaching according to the invention. If this is not possible, the HLB value must be determined experimentally. HLB value Chemical name 1 Triglycerides of saturated fatty acids glyceryl 1.5 Ethylene glycol 1.6 Pur-Celli oil 1.8 trioleate dioleate 2.1 sorbitan 2.4 Propylenglycollactostearat 2.7 Glycerol monooleate Sorbitdioleat 2.8 glycerol Propylene glycol mono- / distearate, not self-emulsifying 2.9 ethylene glycol 3.0 Decaglycerindecaoleat Decaglycerindecastearat Generol 122 (Rapeseed Sterols) sucrose distearate 3.1 Decaglycerindecaoleat glyceryl Pentaerythritylmonostearat Pentaerythritylsesquioleat 3.2 Ethylene glycol monodistearate, not self-emulsifying Glycol 3.3 glycerol 3.4 propylene glycol 3.5 ethylene glycol Pentaerythritylmonooleat Polyethylene glycol (100) monooleate 3.6 Glycerol mono- / dioleate, not self-emulsifying Monoethoxylaurylether 3.7 Sorbitan sesquioleate (Dehymuls SSO) 3.8 Glycerol monodistearate, not self-emulsifying Polyethylene glycol (100) monostearate Diglycerinsesquioleat N, N-Dimethylcaproamid Pentaerythritmonotallat propylene glycol 4.0 Decaglycerinoctaoleat 4.3 Sorbitan monooleate (Dehymuls SMO) diethylene glycol monostearate 4.4 1.2-propylene glycol monodistearate, self-emulsifying 4.5 Glycerol monostearate palmitate (90%), not self-emulsifying propylene glycol 4.7 Sorbitan monostearate (Dehymuls SMS) Diethylenglycolmonooleat 4.8 Pentaerythritmonolaurat 4.9 Polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) oleyl ether) Polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl alcohol (polyoxyethylene (2) stearyl ether) 5.0 Ethylenglycolmonodistearat Generol 122 E 5 (PEG-5 Soy Sterol) Polyethylene glycol (100) monoricinoleate Polyethylene glycol (200) distearate Polyglyceryl-3-isostearates (eg Isolan Gl 34 from Tego) 5.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) dilaurate 6.0 decaglycerol tetraoleate Polyethylene glycol (100) monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (200) dioleate 6.1 Diethylene glycol monolaurate (diglycollaurate) 6.3 Polyethylene glycol (300) dilaurate 6.4 glyceryl Glycerinsorbitanmonolaurat 6.5 Diethylenglycolmonolaurat Sodium stearoyl-2-lactylate 6.7 sorbitan 6.8 Glycerinmonococoat glycerol 7.0 Polyoxyethylene (2) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, Laureth-2 (Dehydol LS 2) sucrose 7.2 Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate Saccharosedioleat 7.4 Polyethylene glycol (100) monolaurate Saccharosedipalmitat 7.5 Saccharosedipalmitat 7.6 Glycerinsorbitanlaurat 7.8 Polyethylene glycol (400) distearate 7.9 Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate Polyoxyethylene (3) tridecyl alcohol 8-8.2 Polyethylene glycol (400) distearate 8.0 Polyoxyethylene (3) C ₁₀ -C ₁₄ fatty alcohol ether, Laureth-3 (Dehydol LS 3) N, N-dimethyl lauramide Sodium lauroyl lactylate, sodium lauroyl-2-lactylate Polyethylene glycol (200) monooleate Polyethylene glycol (220) monotallate Polyethylene glycol (1500) dioleate Polyoxyethylene (4) oleyl alcohol Polyoxyethylene (4) stearylcetylether 8.2 triglycerol 8.3 Diethylenglycolmonolaurat 8.4 Polyoxyethylene (4) cetyl ether Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) dioleate 8.5 Natriumcaproyllactylat Polyethylene glycol (200) monostearate sorbitan 8.6 Sorbitan monolaurate (Dehymuls SML) Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate 8.8 Polyoxyethylene (4) myristyl ether Polyethylene glycol (400) dioleate 8.9 Nonylphenol, polyoxyethylated with 4 moles of EO 9.0 Oleth-5 (eg Eumulgin O 5) 9.2 to 9.7 Polyoxyethylene (4) lauryl alcohol (depending on the commercial product, eg Brij 30, Dehydol LS 4) 9.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) tridecyl alcohol 9.6 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate 9.8 Polyethylenglyco1 (200) monolaurate 10-11 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate 10.0 didodecyldimethylammonium 10.0 Polyethylene glycol (200) monolaurate Polyethylene glycol (400) dilaurate Polyethylene glycol (600) dioleate Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monostearate Polyoxyethylene (5) sorbitan monooleate 10.2 Polyoxyethylene (40) sorbitol hexaoleate 10.4 to 10.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) distearate 10.5 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan tristearate 10.6 sucrose monostearate 10.7 sucrose monooleate 11 to 11.4 Polyethylene glycol (400) monooleate 11.0 Polyethylene glycol (350) monostearate Polyethylene glycol (400) monotallate Polyoxyethylene (7) monostearate Polyoxyethylene glycol (8) monooleate Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan trioleate Polyoxyethylene (6) tridecyl alcohol 11.1 Polyethylene glycol (400) monostearate 11.2 Polyoxyethylene (9) monostearate sucrose monooleate sucrose monostearate 11.4 Polyoxyethylene (50) sorbitol hexaoleate Saccharosemonotallat Saccharosestearatpalmitat 11.6 Polyoxyethylene (400) monoricinoleate 11.7 Saccharosemonomyristat of sucrose 12.0 PEG-10 Soy Sterol (eg Generol 122 E 10) triethanolamine 12.2 to 12.3 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 8 moles of EO 12.2 Saccharosemonomyristat 12.4 saccharose Polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) oleyl ether Polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (10) stearyl ether 12.5 Polyoxyethylene (10) stearylcetylether 12.7 tridecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (8) 12.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (400) monolaurate Saccharosemonococoat 12.9 Polyoxyethylene (10) cetyl ether 13 Glycerol monostearate, ethoxylated (20 mol EO) 13.0 Eumulgin O 10 Eumulgin 286 Eumulgin B 1 (Ceteareth-12) 13.0 C12 fatty amines, ethoxylated (5 moles EO) 13.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (9.5 mol EO) 13.2 Polyethylene glycol (600) monostearate Polyoxyethylene (16) tall oil 13.3 Polyoxyethylene (4) sorbitan monolaurate 13.5 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated (10.5 mol EO) Polyethylene glycol (600) monooleate 13.7 Polyoxyethylene (10) tridecyl alcohol Polyethylene glycol (660) monotallate Polyethylene glycol (1500) monostearate Polyoxyethylene (1500) dioleate 13.9 Polyethylene glycol (400) monococoate Polyoxyethylene (9) monolaurate 14-16 Eumulgin HRE 40 (castor oil, ethoxylated with 40 EO and hydrogenated) 14.0 Polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl ether tridecyl alcohol polyoxyethylene (12) 14.2 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearyl alcohol 14.3 Polyoxyethylene (15) stearylcetylether 14.4 Mixture of C12-C15 fatty alcohols with 12 moles EO 14.5 Polyoxyethylene (12) lauryl alcohol 14.8 Polyoxyethylene glycol (600) monolaurate 14.9 to 15.2 Sorbitan monostearate ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg Eumulgin SMS 20) 15 to 15.9 Sorbitan monooleate, ethoxylated with 20 EO (eg Eumulgin SMO 20) 15.0 PEG-20 glyceryl stearate (eg Cutina E 24) PEG-40 Castor Oil (eg Eumulgin RO 40) Decylglucoside (Oramix NS 10) Dodecylglucoside (Plantaren APG 600) dodecyltrimethylammonium Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 15 moles of EO Polyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate Polyoxyethylene (600) monooleate 15-17 Eumulgin HRE 60 (castor oil, ethoxylated with 60 EO and hydrogenated) 15.3 C12 fatty amines, polyoxyethylated with 12 moles of EO Polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl alcohol, polyoxyethylene (20) oleyl ether 15.4 Polyoxyethylene (20) stearyl cetyl ether (eg, eumulgin B 2 (ceteareth-20)) 15.5 stearyl polyoxyethylene (20) 15.6 Polyoxyethylene glycol (1000) monostearate Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monopalmitate 15.7 Polyoxyethylene (20) cetyl ether 15.9 Dinatriumtriethanolamindistearylheptaglycolethersulfosuccinat 16.0 Nonylphenol ethoxylated with 20 moles of EO Polyoxyethylene (25) propylene glycol stearate 16 to 16.8 Polyoxyethylene (30) monostearate 16.3 to 16.9 Polyoxyethylene (40) monostearate 16.5 to 16.7 Polyoxyethylene (20) sorbitan monolaurate (eg Eumulgin SML 20) 16.6 sorbitol polyoxyethylene (20) 16.7 C18 fatty amines, polyoxyethylated with 5 moles EO Polyoxyethylene (23) lauryl alcohol 17.0 Ceteareth-30, z. B. Eumulgin B 3 Octylglucoside (Triton CG 110) Polyoxyethylene (30) glyceryl monolaurate 17.1 Nonylphenol, ethoxylated with 30 moles of EO 17.4 Polyoxyethylene (40) stearyl alcohol

Further preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 at most 18% by weight, preferably at most 15% by weight, particularly preferably not more than 10% by weight, more preferably not more than 7% by weight more preferably at most 4% by weight and extraordinarily preferably at most 3 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Composition, is.

oils

The stick compositions according to the invention further contain at least one oil which is liquid under normal conditions and which does not represent a perfume component and an essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the total of the oils contained is ^0.5 or more at most -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) +1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , preferably at most -0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or at most + 0.8 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , more preferably around maximum -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or maximum +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , most preferably by a maximum of -0.6 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or a maximum of +0.4 (cal / cm ^{3) 0.5} deviates from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers.

The Matching the oil (s) used to the oil (s) used water-in-oil emulsifier / s represents an important Parameters of this invention. Fit the water-in-oil emulsifier and the oil component (s) from the solubility parameter not within the claimed limits one pens with a technically unsatisfactory hardness and stability.

Oils preferred _{according to the} invention are selected from the benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _8-22 -alkanols. Particularly preferred are benzoic C12-C15 alkyl esters, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® TN, benzoic acid isostearyl, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® SB, ethylhexyl benzoate, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® EB, and Benzoesäureoctyldocecylester, z. B. available as a commercial product Finsolv ^® BOD.

Further oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsubstituted saturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred alcohol oils are Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24th

Other preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, eg. For example, the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate).

Further preferred oils according to the invention are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. Particularly suitable may be the use of natural oils, eg. For example, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel and the liquid portions of coconut oil and the like. But are also synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, z. As the commercial products Myritol ^® 318, Myritol ^® 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) with unbranched fatty acid residues and glyceryl triisostearin and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues.

Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate , Diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®).

Other oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also conditionally suitable are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl, cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl, butyloctanoic-2-butyl octanoate, Diisotridecylacetat, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate.

Other oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox ^® 625), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E).

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C _12- C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols are under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, to refer, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI , Cosmacol® ^® EMI and Cosmacol® ^® EIT.

Oils, which are in view of the solubility parameter vote only in small amounts or not used, are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters DE 19756454 A1 ,

Further oils which may be preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ - C ₆ alkanols.

It may be preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils. Favor Cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the oil d) which is liquid under normal conditions is selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 -fatty acids, dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, adducts of 1 to 5 propylene oxide Units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units to mono- or polyhydric C _3-22 -alkanols, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohol esters of monovalent or polyvalent C ₂ -C _7- hydroxycarboxylic acids, symmetrical, asymmetric carbonic acid or cyclic esters with fatty alcohols, the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ - Alkanols, and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

It can according to the invention extraordinarily be preferred to use mixtures of the aforementioned oils, for optimum fine tuning of the pen characteristics, such as pencil hardness, Residue behavior, abrasion properties or drug release, to achieve.

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the under normal conditions liquid oil (s) in a total amount of 3-20 Wt .-%, preferably 5-14, particularly preferably 6-12 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition, is / are.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, the proportion of oil (s) whose solubility parameter is more than -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or more than +1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0, 5} from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, a maximum of 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of liquid under normal conditions oils. In a further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, no oils are present under normal conditions whose solubility parameter is more than ± 1.2 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0.5 of} the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water deviates in oil emulsifiers.

Appropriate less suitable or (depending on the used water-in-oil emulsifier) even unsuitable oil components are, for example, silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils.

Silicone oils, which z. Dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes such as cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane, have solubility parameters in the range of about 5.7 to 6.3 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 , which deviates by more than 1.2 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 from the value of the water-in-oil emulsifiers used according to the invention.

Natural and synthetic hydrocarbons such as paraffin oils, isoparaffins, in particular isohexadecane, isoeicosane, polyisobutenes or polydecenes, which are obtainable for example under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name Ethylflo ^® from Albemarle or Nexbase ^® 2004G from Nestle, and 1 , 3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S) also belong to the present invention less preferred oil components.

Of the Proportion of silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons should therefore in a preferred embodiment of the invention not larger than 20% based on the total weight under normal conditions liquid oils, otherwise the pins of the invention do not reach the application-specific desired hardness and stability. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention are not silicone oils and / or hydrocarbons, in particular no paraffin or isoparaffin hydrocarbons.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they are free of oil-soluble or oil-dispersible oil phase thickeners Components selected from the amides of 12-hydroxystearic acid, Esters and amides of N-acylamino acids, esters and amides of di- and tricarboxylic acids, sterols, sterol esters, such as especially oryzanol, cellobiose fatty acid esters, sugar esters, such as in particular acylated maltose, and non-crosslinked oil-soluble or oil-dispersible polymeric oil phase thickeners, such as in particular styrene block copolymers with ethylene, propylene and / or Butylene and with mixtures of these alkenes.

polyols

The stick compositions according to the invention further comprise at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof.

Water solubility according to the invention is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say that amounts of at least 5 g of the polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups or of the polyethylene glycol having 3-20 Ethylene oxide units in 95 g of water at 20 ° C are soluble.

Surprised It was found that the mentioned polyols have the structure of influence the overall composition of the pen. Stick compositions which did not contain the polyol component e) showed when brushing the skin a bad abrasion and application behavior and pointed Overall, an unsuitable consistency. Made on the skin a crumbly, unattractive residue, synonymous with high product losses during application.

Prefers these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, Hexane triols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 2-ethyl-2-hydroxymethyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, Diglycerin, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned Substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Also sugar and certain Sugar derivatives such as fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, Inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention.

Preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2 Methyl 1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2 Hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances.

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-25 wt. -%, preferably 8-18 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-15 wt .-%, most preferably 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 or 17 wt .-%, each based on the Total composition is included.

water

Of the Proportion of water in the composition according to the invention is from 6 to 75% by weight, preferably from 10 to 60% by weight, more preferably 20-50% by weight, extremely preferably 25-45% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, but also water contents of 26, 27, 28, 29, 30, 31, 32, 33, 34, 35, 36, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43 and 44 wt .-% is very much preferred could be.

• a) die mindestens eine Wachskomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, die nicht den Komponenten b) oder c) zuzurechnen ist, ausgewählt ist aus i) gehärtetem Rizinusöl, ii) Cetearylbehenat oder C_20-40-Alkylstearaten, iii) Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und/oder Behensäure sowie Mischungen von i), ii) und iii),
• b) die nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 innerhalb eines Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches mit einem mittleren HLB-Wert im Bereich von 10-19 ausgewählt sind aus Mischungen von mit 15-40 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten veretherten C₁₄-C₂₀-Alkoholen, insbesondere Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-20 und Ceteareth-30,
• c) der mindestens eine nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, der mit Wasser allein oder mit Wasser in Gegenwart eines hydrophilen Emulgators flüssigkristalline Strukturen ausbilden kann, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder, ausgewählt ist aus den Mono-und Diestern von Ethylenglycol oder den Mono-, Di-, Tri- und Tetraestern von Pentaerythrit mit linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythrityldistearat, Pentaerythrityltristearat, Pentaerythrityltetrastearat, Ethylenglycolmonostearat, Ethylenglycoldistearat sowie Mischungen hiervon, und
• d) das mindestens eine unter Normalbedingungen flüssige Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt, wobei der (mittlere) Löslichkeitsparameter der Gesamtheit der enthaltenen Öle d) in Gegenwart von linearen gesättigten Fettalkoholen mit mindestens 8 Kohlenstoffatomen um maximal –0,7 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +0,7 (cal/cm³)^0,5 und in Gegenwart von Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren, die von linearen gesättigten Fettalkoholen mit mindestens 8 Kohlenstoffatomen verschieden sind, in Abwesenheit von linearen gesättigten Fettalkoholen mit mindestens 8 Kohlenstoffatomen um maximal –0,4 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +0,7 (cal/cm³)^0,5 vom (mittleren) Löslichkeitsparameter des Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgators/der Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren c) abweicht, ausgewählt ist aus den Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₁₀-Alkanolen, insbesondere Diisopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Di-n-butyl/Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethylhexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat.

Particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that

• a) the at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), is selected from i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl behenate or C _20-40 alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid , Stearic acid and / or behenic acid and mixtures of i), ii) and iii),
• b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 10-19 are selected from mixtures of 15-40 Ethylene oxide units etherified C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alcohols, especially myristeth-20, myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth -30,
• c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which is liquid with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier can form crystalline structures, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, selected from the mono and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14- 22 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, in particular pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof, and
• d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained d) in the presence of linear saturated fatty alcohols having at least 8 carbon atoms by a maximum of -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or at most + 0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and in the presence of water-in-oil emulsifiers other than linear saturated fatty alcohols having at least 8 carbon atoms in the absence of linear saturated fatty alcohols having at least 8 carbon atoms by a maximum of -0.4 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or a maximum of + 0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0.5 of} the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil Emulsifier / the water-in-oil emulsifiers c) is selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate , Diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebac at, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate.

• a) die mindestens eine Wachskomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, die nicht den Komponenten b) oder c) zuzurechnen ist, ausgewählt ist aus i) gehärtetem Rizinusöl, ii) Cetearylbehenat oder C_20-40-Alkylstearaten, iii) Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und/oder Behensäure sowie Mischungen von i), ii) und iii),
• b) die nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 innerhalb eines Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches mit einem mittleren HLB-Wert im Bereich von 10-19 ausgewählt sind aus Mischungen von mit 15-40 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten veretherten C₁₄-C₂₀-Alkoholen, insbesondere Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-20 und Ceteareth-30,
• c) der mindestens eine nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, der mit Wasser allein oder mit Wasser in Gegenwart eines hydrophilen Emulgators flüssigkristalline Strukturen ausbilden kann, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder, ausgewählt ist aus den Mono- und Diestern von Ethylenglycol oder den Mono-, Di-, Tri- und Tetraestern von Pentaerythrit mit linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythrityldistearat, Pentaerythrityltristearat, Pentaerythrityltetrastearat, Ethylenglycolmonostearat, Ethylenglycoldistearat sowie Mischungen hiervon, und
• d) das mindestens eine unter Normalbedingungen flüssige Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt, wobei der (mittlere) Löslichkeitsparameter der Gesamtheit der enthaltenen Öle um maximal –1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 vom (mittleren) Löslichkeitsparameter des Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgators/der Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren abweicht, ausgewählt ist aus den Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₁₀-Alkanolen, insbesondere Diisopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Di-n-butyl/Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethylhexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat,
• e) das mindestens eine wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen ausgewählt ist aus 1,2-Propylenglycol, Dipropylenglycol, Tripropylenglycol, 1,2-Butylenglycol, 1,3-Butylenglycol und 1,4-Butylenglycol,
• f) 25 bis 35 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten sind,
• g) die mindestens eine Vernetzersubstanz ausgewählt ist aus PEG-150-distearat,
• h) der Gesamtgehalt an nichtionischen und ionischen Emulgatoren und/oder Tensiden mit einem HLB-Wert über 8 maximal 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Stiftzusammensetzung, beträgt,
• i) der mindestens eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoff ausgewählt ist aus schweißhemmenden Wirkstoffen.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that

• a) the at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), is selected from i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl behenate or C _20-40 alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid , Stearic acid and / or behenic acid and mixtures of i), ii) and iii),
• b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 10-19 are selected from mixtures of 15-40 Ethylene oxide units etherified C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alcohols, especially myristeth-20, myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth -30,
• c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and or water binder, selected from the mono- and diesters of ethylene glycol or the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22, carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, in particular, pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate, as well as mixtures thereof, and
• d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum of -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and a maximum of +1 , 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 differs from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ - Alkanols, especially diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di - (2-hexyldecyl) succinate,
• e) the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol,
• f) 25 to 35% by weight of water, based on the total composition, are contained,
• g) the at least one crosslinker substance is selected from PEG-150 distearate,
• h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition,
• i) the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active substances.

• a) die mindestens eine Wachskomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, die nicht den Komponenten b) oder c) zuzurechnen ist, ausgewählt ist aus i) gehärtetem Rizinusöl, ii) Cetearylbehenat oder C_20-40-Alkylstearaten, iii) Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und/oder Behensäure,
• b) die nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 innerhalb eines Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches mit einem mittleren HLB-Wert im Bereich von 10-19 ausgewählt sind aus Mischungen von mit 15-40 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten veretherten C₁₄-C₂₀-Alkoholen, insbesondere Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-20 und Ceteareth-30,
• c) der mindestens eine nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, der mit Wasser allein oder mit Wasser in Gegenwart eines hydrophilen Emulgators flüssigkristalline Strukturen ausbilden kann, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder, ausgewählt ist aus Mischungen von Ethylenglycolmonostearat und Ethylenglycoldistearat, und
• d) das mindestens eine unter Normalbedingungen flüssige Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt, wobei der (mittlere) Löslichkeitsparameter der Gesamtheit der enthaltenen Öle um maximal –1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 vom (mittleren) Löslichkeitsparameter des Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgators/der Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren abweicht, ausgewählt ist aus Diisopropyladipat und Di-n-butyladipat,
• e) das mindestens eine wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen ausgewählt ist aus 1,2-Propylenglycol,
• f) 25 bis 35 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten sind,
• g) die mindestens eine Vernetzersubstanz ausgewählt ist aus PEG-150-distearat,
• h) der Gesamtgehalt an nichtionischen und ionischen Emulgatoren und/oder Tensiden mit einem HLB-Wert über 8 maximal 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Stiftzusammensetzung, beträgt,
• i) der mindestens eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoff ausgewählt ist aus schweißhemmenden Wirkstoffen.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that

• a) the at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), is selected from i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl behenate or C _20-40 alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid, palmitic acid , Stearic acid and / or behenic acid,
• b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 10-19 are selected from mixtures of 15-40 Ethylene oxide units etherified C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alcohols, especially myristeth-20, myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth -30,
• c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and or water binder, selected from mixtures of ethylene glycol monostearate and ethylene glycol distearate, and
• d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum of -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and a maximum of +1 , 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 differs from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, selected from diisopropyl adipate and di-n-butyl adipate,
• e) the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol,
• f) 25 to 35% by weight of water, based on the total composition, are contained,
• g) the at least one crosslinker substance is selected from PEG-150 distearate,
• h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition,
• i) the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active substances.

• a) die mindestens eine Wachskomponente mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, die nicht den Komponenten b) oder c) zuzurechnen ist, ausgewählt ist aus Mischungen von i) gehärtetem Rizinusöl, ii) Cetearylbehenat oder C_20-40-Alkylstearaten, iii) Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und/oder Behensäure,
• b) die nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 innerhalb eines Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches mit einem mittleren HLB-Wert im Bereich von 10-19 ausgewählt sind aus Mischungen von mit 15-40 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten veretherten C₁₄-C₂₀-Alkoholen, insbesondere Myristeth-20, Myristeth-30, Ceteth-10, Ceteth-20, Steareth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-30, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-20 und Ceteareth-30,
• c) der mindestens eine nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, der mit Wasser allein oder mit Wasser in Gegenwart eines hydrophilen Emulgators flüssigkristalline Strukturen ausbilden kann, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder, ausgewählt ist aus Mischungen von Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythrityldistearat, Pentaerythrityltristearat und Pentaerythrityltetrastearat, und
• d) das mindestens eine unter Normalbedingungen flüssige Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt, wobei der (mittlere) Löslichkeitsparameter der Gesamtheit der enthaltenen Öle um maximal –1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 bzw. maximal +1,0 (cal/cm³)^0,5 vom (mittleren) Löslichkeitsparameter des Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgators/der Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren abweicht, ausgewählt ist aus Diisopropyladipat und Di-n-butyladipat,
• e) das mindestens eine wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen ausgewählt ist aus 1,2-Propylenglycol,
• f) 25 bis 35 Gew.-% Wasser, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten sind,
• g) die mindestens eine Vernetzersubstanz ausgewählt ist aus PEG-150-distearat,
• h) der Gesamtgehalt an nichtionischen und ionischen Emulgatoren und/oder Tensiden mit einem HLB-Wert über 8 maximal 20 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte Stiftzusammensetzung, beträgt,
• i) der mindestens eine kosmetische oder dermatologische Wirkstoff ausgewählt ist aus schweißhemmenden Wirkstoffen.

Further particularly preferred stick compositions according to the invention are characterized in that

• a) the at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), is selected from mixtures of i) hardened castor oil, ii) cetearyl behenate or C _20-40 alkyl stearates, iii) myristic acid , Palmitic acid, stearic acid and / or behenic acid,
• b) the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 10-19 are selected from mixtures of 15-40 Ethylene oxide units etherified C ₁₄ -C ₂₀ alcohols, especially myristeth-20, myristeth-30, ceteth-10, ceteth-20, steareth-20, ceteth-30, steareth-30, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-20 and ceteareth -30,
• c) the at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and or water binders selected from mixtures of pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate and pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, and
• d) the at least one liquid under normal conditions, which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the totality of the oils contained by a maximum of -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and a maximum of +1 , 0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 differs from the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil emulsifiers, selected from diisopropyl adipate and di-n-butyl adipate,
• e) the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol,
• f) 25 to 35% by weight of water, based on the total composition, are contained,
• g) the at least one crosslinker substance is selected from PEG-150 distearate,
• h) the total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value above 8 not more than 20 wt .-%, based on the total stick composition,
• i) the at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active substances.

The pen compositions according to the invention preferably further selected at least one cosmetic active ingredient made of antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, skin aging combating, anti-inflammatory, soothing, epithelizing, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulatory, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin-lightening sebum-regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or glossing agents, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors the groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances.

Especially Preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient is selected from antiperspirant active ingredients. The pen application is (in addition to lipsticks) especially for the area antiperspirants typical. From the outside Water phase of the pins is a very rapid release of the (water-soluble) antiperspirant active substance, which is very important for the product performance.

Antiperspirant components

preferred Antiperspirant agents are selected from the water-soluble ones astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, Zirconium and zinc or any mixtures of these salts.

According to the invention under water solubility, a solubility of at least 5 wt .-% understood at 20 ° C, that is, that Quantities of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active in 95 g Water at 20 ° C are soluble.

Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from aluminum chlorohydrate, in particular aluminum chlorohydrate having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 1-6 H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 2-3 H ₂ O ] _n , which may be in unactivated or in activated (depolymerized) form, and aluminum chlorohydrate having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl _2. 1-6 H ₂ O] _n , preferably [Al ₂ (OH) ₄ Cl ₂ · 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be in unactivated or activated (depolymerized) form.

The preparation of preferred antiperspirant active ingredients is for example in US 3887692 . US 3904741 . US 4359456 . GB 2048229 and GB 1347950 disclosed.

Also preferred are aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or aluminum chlorohydrex-polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum or aluminum zirconium glycol complexes, e.g. Aluminum or aluminum zirconium-propylene glycol complexes, aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PEG, aluminum PG dichlorohydrex or aluminum PEG dichlorhydrate, aluminum hydroxide further selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes, such as Aluminiumzirconiumtri arconium chlorhydrex glycine, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrexglycin, potassium aluminum sulphate (KAl (SO _{4) 2} · 12 H ₂ O, alum), Aluminiumundecylenoylcollagenaminosäure, Natriumaluminiumlactat + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, complexes of Zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum iumlactate, aluminum chlorohydrate, sodium zinc chlorohydrate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate, zirconium oxyhalides, especially zirconyl oxychlorides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides, especially zirconyl chlorohydrate.

Antiperspirant active ingredients which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from what are known as "activated" aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts, which are also referred to as "enhanced activity" as antiperspirant active ingredients. Such agents are known in the art and are also commercially available. Their production is for example in GB 2048229 . US 4775528 and US 6010688 disclosed. Activated aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts are typically produced by heat treating a relatively dilute solution of the salt (eg, about 10% by weight salt) to increase its HPLC peak 4-to-peak 3 area ratio. The activated salt can then be spray dried to a powder.

activated Aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts typically have a HPLC peak 4-to-peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, more preferably at least 0.9, wherein at least 70% of the aluminum is assigned to these peaks.

Activated aluminum and aluminum zirconium salts do not necessarily have to be used as a spray-dried powder. Also preferred according to the invention antiperspirant active ingredients are aqueous solutions or solubilizates of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, for example according to US 6010688 characterized by the addition of an effective amount of a polyhydric alcohol having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and from 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably propylene glycol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, against the loss of activation against the rapid degradation of the HPLC peak 4: peak 3-area ratio of the salt are stabilized. For example, preferred are Zu compositions containing by weight (USP): 18-45% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 20-70% by weight of water and 5-60% by weight of a polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups, preferably propylene glycol, butylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol, more preferably propylene glycol and pentaerythritol.

Also particularly preferred are complexes of activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts with a polyhydric alcohol containing 20-50% by weight, more preferably 20-42% by weight, activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 2-16% by weight .-% molecularly bound water, the remainder to 100 wt .-% least one polyhydric alcohol having 3 to 6 carbon atoms and 3 to 6 hydroxyl groups. Propylene glycol, sorbitol and pentaerythritol are preferred such alcohols. Such inventively preferred complexes of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt with a polyhydric alcohol are, for. B. disclosed in US 5643558 and US 6245325 ,

Further preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are basic calcium aluminum salts, as used, for example, in US Pat US 2571030 are disclosed. These salts are prepared by reacting calcium carbonate with aluminum chlorhydroxide or aluminum chloride and aluminum powder or by adding calcium chloride dihydrate to aluminum chlorhydroxide.

Further preferred antiperspirant active compounds are aluminum-zirconium complexes, as described, for example, in US Pat US 4017599 are disclosed, which are buffered with salts of amino acids, in particular with alkali and Erdalkaliglycinaten.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts, as described, for example, in US Pat US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 1-85% by weight of water, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in such an amount as to add an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2: 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10, and a water-soluble calcium salt in such an amount to give a Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1 -1: 28 and preferably 1: 2-1: 25.

Particularly preferred solid activated antiperspirant salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78 wt .-% (USP), preferably 66-75 wt .-% of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16 wt .-%, preferably 4-13 wt .-% molecularly bound water ( Water of hydration), further enough water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much amino acid that the amino acid becomes (Al + Zr) Weight ratio 2: 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78 wt .-% (USP), preferably 66-75 wt .-% of an activated aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt and 1-16 wt .-%, preferably 4-13 wt .-% molecularly bound water ( Water of hydration), further enough water-soluble calcium salt, that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and enough glycine that the glycine is (Al + Zr) Weight ratio 2: 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, so much water-soluble calcium salt that the Ca: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much hydroxyalkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Preferred aqueous liquid compositions, for example according to US 6245325 or US 6042816 , contain 18-45% by weight (USP), preferably 20-42% by weight (USP) of antiperspirant salt and from about 20% to about 80% and preferably from about 25% to about 75% of water together with the aforementioned amount Calcium salt and amino acid or hydroxy acid.

Preferred water-soluble calcium salts for the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts are selected from calcium chloride, calcium bromide, calcium nitrate, calcium citrate, calcium formate, calcium acetate, calcium gluconate, calcium ascorbate, calcium lactate, calcium glycinate, calcium carbonate, calcium sulfate, calcium hydroxide, as well as mixtures thereof.

For preferred the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts Amino acids are selected from glycine, alanine, Leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, valine, cysteine, serine, tryptophan, Phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the l-form and the dl-form; Glycine is special prefers.

For preferred the stabilization of the antiperspirant salts Hydroxyalkanoic acids are selected from glycolic acid and lactic acid.

Other preferred antiperspirant actives are activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salts, as described, for example, in US Pat US 6902723 containing 5-78% by weight (USP) of an activated antiperspirant aluminum or aluminum zirconium salt, 1-85% by weight of water, an amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid in such an amount as to add an (amino acid or hydroxyalkanoic acid) (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 2: 1-1: 20 and preferably 1: 1 to 1:10, and a water-soluble strontium salt in such an amount to have a Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio of 1: 1 -1: 28 and preferably 1: 2-1: 25. Particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further, enough water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and so much amino acid that the amino acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further, enough water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and enough glycine that the glycine would become (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Further particularly preferred solid antiperspirant activated salt compositions, for example according to US 6902723 containing 48-78% by weight (USP), preferably 66-75% by weight of an activated aluminum or aluminum-zirconium salt and 1-16% by weight, preferably 4-13% by weight of molecularly bound water, further enough so much water-soluble strontium salt that the Sr: (Al + Zr) weight ratio is 1: 1-1: 28, preferably 1: 2-1: 25, and enough hydroxyalkanoic acid that the hydroxyalkanoic acid becomes (Al + Zr) weight ratio 2 : 1-1: 20, preferably 1: 1-1: 10.

Preferred aqueous liquid compositions, for example according to US 6902723 , contain 18-45 wt .-% (USP), preferably 20-42 wt .-% (USP) antiperspirant salt and 20-80 wt .-%, preferably 25-75 wt .-% water, and the aforementioned amount of Strontium salt and amino acid or hydroxy acid.

Further preferred activated aluminum salts are those of the general formula Al ₂ (OH) _6-a Xa in which X is Cl, Br, I or NO ₃ and "a" is a value of 0.3 to 5, preferably of 0.8 to 2 , 5 and more preferably 1 to 2, such that the molar ratio of Al: X is 0.9: 1 to 2.1: 1, as described, for example, in U.S. Pat US 6074632 are disclosed. These salts generally associate some hydration water, typically 1 to 6 moles of water per mole of salt. Particularly preferred is aluminum chlorohydrate (ie, X is Cl in the aforementioned formula) and especially 5/6 basic aluminum chlorohydrate wherein "a" is 1 such that the molar ratio of aluminum to chlorine is 1.9: 1 to 2.1: 1 ,

Preferred activated aluminum-zirconium salts are those which are mixtures or complexes of the aluminum salts described above with zirconium salts of the formula ZrO (OH) _2-pb Y _b represent wherein Y is Cl, Br, I, NO ₃ or SO _4, b is a rational number from 0.8 to 2 and p is the valence of Y, as described, for example, in US 6074632 are disclosed. The zirconium salts also typically associate some hydration water associatively, typically 1 to 7 moles of water per mole of salt. Preferably, the zirconium salt is zirconyl hydroxychloride having the formula ZrO (OH) _{2 b} Cl _b , wherein b is a rational number of from 0.8 to 2, preferably from 1.0 to 1.9. Preferred aluminum-zirconium salts have an Al: Zr molar ratio of 2 to 10 and a metal: (X + Y) ratio of 0.73 to 2.1, preferably 0.9 to 1.5. A particularly preferred salt is aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate (ie, X and Y are Cl), which has an Al: Zr ratio of 2 to 10 and a molar metal: Cl ratio of 0.9 to 2.1. The term aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate includes tri-, tetra-, penta- and octa chlorohydrate.

Zirconium salts preferred according to the invention have the general formula ZrO (OH) _2-a Cl _a .x H ₂ O where a = 1.5-1.87; x = 1-7, where a and x are rational numbers. These zirconium salts are, for example, in the Belgian script BE 825146 disclosed.

Further preferred antiperspirant active substances are in US 6663854 and US 20040009133 disclosed.

The Antiperspirant active ingredients can be dissolved both in as well as solubilized as well as in unresolved, suspended Form present.

Provided the antiperspirant active ingredients in one with water not Miscible carriers are suspended, it is for reasons the product stability prefers that the drug particles an average particle size of 0.1-200 μm, preferably 1-50 microns, more preferably 3-20 microns and most preferably 5-10 μm, exhibit.

preferred Aluminum salts and aluminum zirconium salts have a metal-to-chloride molar ratio of 0.9-1.3, preferably 0.9-1.1, more preferably 0.9-1.0, up.

Preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates generally have the empirical formula Al _n Zr (OH) _{[3n + 4-m (n + 1)]} (Cl) _{[m (n + 1)]} where n = 2.0-10.0, preferably 3 , 0-8.0, m = 0.77-1.11 (corresponding to a molar metal (Al + Zr) to chloride ratio of 1.3-0.9), preferably m = 0.91-1 , 11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 1.1-0.9), and particularly preferably m = 1.00-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 1.0-0.9), furthermore very preferably m = 1 , 02-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 0.98-0.9) and very preferably m = 1.04-1.11 (corresponding to M: Cl = 0.96-0.9).

at These salts generally have some water of hydration associative typically 1-6 moles of water per mole of salt, corresponding to 1-16 wt .-%, preferably 4-13 wt .-% water of hydration.

Usually are the preferred aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates with an amino acid associated to the polymerization of zirconium species during to prevent the production. Preferred stabilizing amino acids are selected from glycine, alanine, leucine, isoleucine, β-alanine, Cysteine, valine, serine, tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, β-amino-n-butanoic acid and γ-amino-n-butanoic acid and the salts thereof, each in the d-form, the l-form and the dl-form; Glycine is special prefers. The amino acid is in an amount of 1-3 Mol, preferably 1.3-1.8 mol, in each case per mol of zirconium in containing the salt.

preferred Antiperspirant salts are aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrate (Al: Zr = 2-6, M: Cl = 0.9-1.3), especially salts with a molar metal to chloride ratio of 0.9-1.1, preferably 0.9-1.0.

Also preferred according to the invention are aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate-glycine salts which are stabilized with betaine ((CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ). Particularly preferred corresponding compounds have a total molar (betaine + glycine) / Zr ratio of (0.1-3.0): 1, preferably (0.7-1.5): 1, and a betaine molar ratio Glycine of at least 0.001: 1 on. Corresponding compounds are disclosed in, for example US 7105691 ,

In a particularly preferred embodiment according to the invention, the particularly effective antiperspirant salt comprises a so-called "activated" salt, in particular one with a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, in particular with a peak 5 surface of at least 33%, particularly preferred at least 45%, based on the total area under peaks 2-5, measured by HPLC of a 10% by weight aqueous solution of the active ingredient under conditions in which the aluminum species are resolved into at least 4 consecutive peaks (with peaks Preferred aluminum zirconium salts having a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content (also referred to as " E ⁵ AZCH " US 6436381 and US 6649152 ,

Furthermore, those activated "E ⁵ AZCH" salts whose HPLC peak has a 4-to-peak 3 area ratio of at least 0.4, preferably at least 0.7, particularly preferably at least 0.9, are preferred.

Further particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are those aluminum zirconium salts with a high HPLC peak 5-aluminum content, which additionally with a water-soluble strontium salt and / or stabilized with a water-soluble calcium salt. Corresponding salts are, for example, in US 6923952 disclosed.

Further preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from astringent titanium salts, as used, for example, in US Pat GB 2299506 A are disclosed.

The Antiperspirant agents can be used as (aqueous) Solutions or as glycolic solubilisate be used.

Especially preferred pins according to the invention, in particular Deodorant or antiperspirant sticks are characterized that the at least one antiperspirant active ingredient in an amount from 3 to 27% by weight, preferably 5 to 22% by weight and in particular 10-20 wt .-%, based on the Total weight of the anhydrous active substance (USP) in the Total composition.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition comprises an astringent aluminum salt, especially aluminum chlorohydrate, for example, in powder form as Micro Dry ^® Ultrafine from Reheis, in the form of an aqueous solution as Locron ^® L from Clariant, as Chlorhydrol ^® as well as in activated form as Reach ^® 501 Reheis is distributed. Under the name ^Reach® 301 an aluminum sesquichlorohydrate from Reheis is offered, which is likewise particularly preferred. Also particularly preferred are activated aluminum chlorohydrates which are available under the names ^Reach® 101 and ^Reach® 103 from Reheis. The use of aluminum-zirconium tetrachlorohydrex-glycine complexes, which are, for example, from Reheis under the name Rezal 36G ^® or as a powder Rezal 36 GP in the trade, may be particularly preferred in the present invention.

The Pen compositions according to the invention can in a further particularly preferred embodiment both contain at least one deodorant and at least one antiperspirant active ingredient. Likewise particularly preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient is selected from deodorising agents.

Deodorant actives

According to the invention preferred Deodorant agents are odor absorbers, deodorizing ion exchangers, Germ-inhibiting agents, prebiotic active components as well Enzyme inhibitors or, more preferably, combinations of said Agents.

Silicate serve as odor absorbers, which also simultaneously the rheological Properties of the composition according to the invention beneficial support. To the invention especially advantageous silicates include, in particular, phyllosilicates and among these in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, Ilit, beidellite, nontronite, Saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talc.

Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, zinc ricinoleate, Cyclodextrins, certain metal oxides, such as. B. alumina, as well Chlorophyll. They are preferred in an amount of 0.1-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-7 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 1-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, used.

Under germ-inhibiting or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are those Active substances understood that involved the number of the odors Reduce skin germs or inhibit their growth. To these germs include, among others, different species from the group staphylococci, a group of corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci.

Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsubstituted saturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schälke & Mayr), carboxylic acid esters of mono-, di- and triglycerol (z. As glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg., Green tea and components of Linden leaves oil) can be used. Further preferred deodorant active substances are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs that lead to a include healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as being prebiotic effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.

Further preferred deodorant agents are selected from the germ-inhibiting perfume oils, in particular from heliotropin, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol (3-phenoxypropan-2-ol), Anisalcohol, 2-methyl-5-phenyl-pentan-1-ol, 1,1-dimethyl-3-phenyl-propan-1-ol, Benzyl alcohol, 2-phenylethan-1-ol, 3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 4-phenylbutan-1-ol, 5-phenylpentan-1-ol, 2-benzylheptan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 2,2-dimethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (3'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (2'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (4'-chlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (2'-methyl-phenyl) -propan-1-ol, 2-Ethyl-3- (4'-methylphenyl) -propan-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-dimethylphenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-ethyl-3- (4'-methoxyphenyl ) propane-1-ol, 3- (3 ', 4'-Dimethoxyphenyl) -2-ethyl-propan-1-ol, 2-allyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol and 2-n-pentyl-3-phenylpropan-1-ol, and mixtures thereof, wherein Mixtures of phenoxyethanol and 2-benzylheptan-1-ol and mixtures from phenoxyethanol, 2-benzylheptan-1-ol and heliotropin especially are preferred.

To The enzyme inhibitors include substances that are responsible for the enzymes responsible for sweat decomposition, in particular arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, Lipases and / or lipoxigenase, inhibit, e.g. Trialkyl citric acid ester, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate.

Preferred sticks according to the invention, in particular deodorant sticks or antiperspirant sticks, are characterized in that the at least one deodorant active ingredient is selected from arylsulfatase inhibitors, β-glucuronidase inhibitors, aminoacylase inhibitors, esterase inhibitors, lipase inhibitors and lipoxigenase inhibitors. Inhibitors, α-Monoalkylglycerinethern with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl radical, in particular α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, phenoxyethanol, antimicrobial perfume oils, prebiotic components, trialkyl citric acid esters, in particular triethyl citrate, active ingredients which reduce or inhibit the growth of the number of skin germs from the group of staphylococci, corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, zinc compounds, in particular zinc phenolsulphonate and zinc ricinoleate, organohalogen compounds, in particular triclosan, chlorine hexidine, chlorhexidine gluconate and benzalkonium halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, in particular cetylpyridinium chloride, odor absorbers, in particular silicates and zeolites, sodium bicarbonate, lantibiotics, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances.

Further preferred pins according to the invention, in particular Deodorant or antiperspirant sticks are characterized that the at least one deodorant active ingredient in a total amount from 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.2-7% by weight, especially preferably 0.3-5% by weight and most preferably 0.4-1.0 Wt .-%, further preferably 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8 and 0.9 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the active substance in the overall composition, is included.

Also the cosmetic active substance is particularly preferably selected from active ingredients that regulate hair growth, especially the Slow or inhibit hair growth. Such agents are particularly preferably used in antiperspirants and deodorants, for the result of shaving the armpit hair longer receive.

Preferred substances which slow down or inhibit hair growth are, in particular, selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of Salix alba, as described, for example and preferably in US Pat raw material Pilinhib ^® Veg LS, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques glycol 9109 with the INCI nomenclature "Propylene, Hydrolyzed Soy protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Ha Mamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic Acid "further contains combinations of extracts of Epilobium Angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulata for example and preferably in the raw materials ARP 100 from Greentech SA / Rahn with the INCI declaration "Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract" and ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI : Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), Contains Active Ingredient Combinations of Xylitol and Extracts of Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit, Carica Papaya ( Papaya) and olive leaves, as for example and preferably in the raw material Xyleine from Impag / Seporga with the INCI declaration "Xylitol a Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract "are also included in active ingredient combinations of Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya and Thuya Occidentalis, as for example and preferably in the plantafluid complex AH plant Plantamar with the INCI declaration "Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya, Thuya Occidentalis" are included, as well as extracts of Larrea divaricata, such as and preferably in the raw material Capislow of Sederma, which contains lecithin vesicles with a hydroglycolic extract of Larrea divaricata.

Further preferred hair growth-inhibiting active ingredients are selected from substances which inhibit the protein tyrosine kinase, in particular from lavendustine-A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidenmalononitrile, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenmalononitrile, Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-) dihydroxy) thiocinnamide, 2-amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl) -1, 1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alphaindol-5-yl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy 5- (benzothiazolylthiomethyl) benzylidenecyanoacetamide, 4-amino-N- (2,5-dihydroxybenzyl) methyl benzoate, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, 4- (3-chloroanilino) -6,7-dimethoxyquinazoline, α -Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-benzylcinnamide, (-) - RN- (α-methylbenzyl) -3,4-dihydroxybenzylidenecyanoacetamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (3 phenylpropyl) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-phenylcinnamide, α-cyano - (+) - (S) -N- (alpha-phenethyl) - (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (phenylbutyl ) cinnamide, herbimycin A, thiazolidinedione, phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids, 2,2'-dithiobis (1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids), sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrene, methylcaffeate, HNMPA (AM) ₃ (tris-acetoxymethyl hydroxy-2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonic acid) and N-acetyl-Asp-Tyr- (2-malonyl) -Val-Pro-Met-Leu-NH ₂ .

Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from the substances mentioned in U.S. Pat WO 2006/130330 A2 are disclosed, namely agonists of the farnesoid X receptor, preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6-alpha-Ethylchenodeoxycholsäure, further from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2 , 6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl acetate, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatriene-1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesyl ether, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, ethyl farnesoate, furthermore from 7-methyl- Methyl 9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoate (juvenile hormone III), 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid, 3 alpha, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6- alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, N- (2,2,2-trifluoroethyl) -N- [4- [2,2,2-trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1- (trifluoromethyl) -ethyl] phenyl] benzenesulfonanilide, 3- [2- [2-chloro-4- [3- (2,6-dichlorophenyl) -5- (1-met hylethyl) -4-isoxazolyl] methoxy] -phenylethenyl] benzoic acid, [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1 -dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester and [3,5-bis ( 1,1-dimethylethyl-4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene ester] bisphosphonsäuretetrakis (1-methylethyl).

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least a hair growth inhibiting substance in a total amount of 0.0001-5 wt%, preferably 0.001-2 wt%, especially preferably 0.01-1 wt%, and most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of active substance hair growth inhibiting agent (s) and total weight the composition of the invention.

Also the cosmetic active substance is particularly preferably selected from anti-aging, anti-inflammatory and / or skin soothing agents. Some of the following Substances can not only work against skin aging, but also have a calming, anti-inflammatory, keratolytic or moisturizing.

The cosmetic anti-aging active ingredient is particularly preferably selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, DNA or RNA oligonucleotides, moisturizing active ingredients, Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H and the esters and / or salts of the aforementioned substances, α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, α-ketocarboxylic acids, β-hydroxycarboxylic acids and their ester, lactone or salt form, flavonoids and Flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, purine and purine derivatives, in particular the naturally occurring xanthine derivatives selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophyllin, aporphine alkaloids, ectoine, inorganic and orga niche UV filter substances, self-tanning agents, skin-lightening agents, skin-soothing agents, sebum-regulating agents, hyperemic agents, antimicrobial agents, prebiotic agents and coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigments.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, Sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ -syl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents. With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The Physiologically acceptable salts of the invention preferred Active substances containing acid groups and forming salts are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, Magnesium, calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Prefers are the sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Numerous of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then, via the release of growth factors, repair processes in the tissue, eg. B. Collagen synthesis, induce, or are able to bind to the sequence Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), the synthesis of collagen in dermal Fibroblasts induced to release. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable for the substitution of Gly.The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with one Nitrogen atom, which is predominantly charged at pH 6, z. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine. Most preferably, Lys is replaced by Arg, Orn or citrulline. A further preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, which, for. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides selected from rigin and rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg on. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, e.g. B. under the name Eyeliss is available from Sederma, but also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma. To the Rigin analogues include those where the four amino acids are rearranged and / or where Rigin is at most two amino acids are substituted, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids has the sequence a Pro or Arg and more preferably the tetrapeptide both Pro and Arg, with their order and position varying can. The substituting amino acids can from each amino acid defined below become. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc are the same or different May be amino acids and where Xaa is selected is from Gly and the amino acids that substitute Gly Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids, which can substitute Gln, Xcc is selected Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids that can replace Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, z. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids that can replace Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 is present predominantly charged, z. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and isodesmosin.

As Rigin analogs according to the invention Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides containing at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with an amino group predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least one amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides may contain any amino acid; however, preferably the fourth amino acid is also selected from the three abovementioned groups. Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence) Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g., peptides 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6W from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI ), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), Hexapeptide-9 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (eg, Collaxyl from Vincience, or Seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (eg, Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistine exsymol).

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as for example in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from the company Sederma is available.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins having more than 30 amino acid units. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, Kerstin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Diahin ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, with the potassium salts being particularly preferred.

One further, particularly preferred according to the invention Soy protein hydrolyzate is one that is N-acylated with coconut fatty acids and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate in the form of the potassium salt, under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya of the Company Sinerga is available.

Farther keratin hydrolysates are preferred according to the invention, in particular wool keratin hydrolysates. A particularly preferred wool keratin hydrolyzate is available under the name Keratec Pep from Croda. Keratec Pep has a smaller molecular weight fraction with an average Molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger one Molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight from 1265 daltons up. Further preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolysates, especially those under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen are available. Conchiolin is a complex protein, that from the outer epithelium of mollusks, in particular of pearl mussels and various types of snails is and by the incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals the very stable shell of these mollusks.

protein can of course also monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually not defined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used in the present invention, some of them are listed under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hy Drolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In In a further preferred embodiment, the in contained the pen compositions according to the invention Polymers of amino acids selected from DNA repair enzymes. Preferred DNA repair enzymes according to the invention are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter in the following with "T4N5" abbreviated. These two enzymes are in the art already known as so-called DNA repair enzymes. Under DNA repair is by definition the fission or removal UV induced pyrimidine dimers from the DNA.

photolyase is the abbreviation for deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase off A. nidulans is now out in technically relevant quantities E. coli won. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The Enzyme T4 Endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases, which are the nucleic acids split hydrolytically at the (5'-3 ') bond. T4N5 is also without Light influence active.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^TM or Ultrasomes ^TM in total amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-5.0 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1.0 -4.0 wt .-%, based on the total inventive pin included.

According to the invention particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they contain at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-1-2-3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the entire pen composition according to the invention, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the pen compositions according to the invention at least a DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide. According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids by phosphoric acid diester bridges are linked. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic linkage to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are, for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, in particular CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (Guanosine-5'-triphosphate). An invention particularly the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the pen compositions according to the invention at least a natural betaine compound. Surprised It has been stated that the addition of at least one natural Betaine compound to the stick compositions of the invention increases the effect of the antiperspirant active ingredients contained.

Natural betaine compounds used in the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used in the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally O, S, B or C, but not the IUPAC Rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they have at least one natural betaine compound in one Total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total stick composition, contain.

Further According to the invention, particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they are at least one natural Betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, respectively based on the entire stick composition, and the cosmetic active ingredient i) is selected from antiperspirant Agents.

In a further preferred embodiment include the pen compositions according to the invention at least a vitamin, provitamin, or a vitamin precursor Compound of the vitamin groups A, B, C, E and H and the esters the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2% by weight, preferably 0.05-0.05%. 1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1–1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt.
  

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.
  

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independent each represent a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The invention extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), wherein in formula (VIT-I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a Hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 is} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 is} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folat wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001–1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01–0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Folate is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the generic term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of compounds containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic connected pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a compound of vitamin character, which is usually found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl). Tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF). Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₉ , B ₁₃ and their esters and / or salts and pantolactone.

preferred Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their Esters are vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one of said compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1 2 wt .-%, in each case on the entire composition, included.

The vitamin E group includes tocopherol, especially α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, Tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one substance selected from tocopherol and its derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0, 5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

vitamin A-palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the invention prefers.

In a further preferred embodiment include the pen compositions according to the invention at least an α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form. According to the invention preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-Hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, Malic acid, erythraric acid, threar acid, Glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, Gularic acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, Gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of the acids mentioned are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, Butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in one Total amount of 0.01-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract. The inventively preferred flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, flavanones, 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), the aurones and the isoflavones. Particularly preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, Hesperidin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Monoxerutin (3,3,4 ', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, naringin and Apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one flavonoid in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. The isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted at this point as isoflavonoids. For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are to be understood as meaning substances which are hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran, hydrogenation of which may be in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton, oxidation under Formation of a carbonyl group in the 4-position present and substitution means the replacement of one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups. The isoflavones preferred according to the invention include, for example, daidzein, genistein, prunetin, biochanin, orobol, santal, pratense, irigenin, glycitein, biochanin A and formononetin. Particularly preferred isoflavones are daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin. In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Particularly preferred isoflavone glycosides according to the invention are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can in the skilled person, for example, by squeezing or extract from plants such as soy, red clover or chickpeas be won. Particular preference is given in the inventive Preparations isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of Soy extracts are used as they are, for example the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) available commercially are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains phytohormones, isoflavonoids, Phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one isoflavonoid in a total of .00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract.

Under Polyphenols are aromatic according to the invention Understand compounds containing at least two phenolic hydroxy groups contained in the molecule. These include the three dihydroxybenzenes Catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, phloroglucin, Pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In nature, free and occur etherified polyphenols, for example in flower dyes (Anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acyl polyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives. preferred Polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as Tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and digalloylgallic acid. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, ie the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is the derivatives of leucoanthocyanidins, the preferred in 5,7,3 ', 4', 5'-position phenolic hydroxy groups carry, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as the resulting Self-condensation resulting tannins. Such tannins are preferably not in isolated pure substance, but as extracts used tanning agent-rich plant parts, eg. B. Extracts of Catechu, Quebracho, oak bark and pine bark, as well as other tree bark, Leaves of green tea (camellia sinensis) and Mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins. A special preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from the Company Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, available from the company Croda. According to the invention preferred are the polyphenols in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferred 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the commercial product, which contains at least one polyphenol throughout inventive composition used.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially preferred is the ubiquinone of the formula (UBI-I) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention is an earlier regarded as a unitary substance concentrate from the Fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main ingredients of Silymarin are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 bis 0.01 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance selected from purine and purine derivatives. Purine (7H-imidazo [4,5-d] pyrimidine) does not occur freely in nature, but forms the main body of purines. Purines, in turn, are a group of important compounds naturally involved in human, animal, plant and microbial metabolic processes which are different from the parent by substitution with OH, NH ₂ , SH at the 2-, 6-, and 8-positions and / or with CH ₃ in 1-, 3-, 7-position derived. Purine can be prepared, for example, from aminoacetonitrile and formamide. Purines and purine derivatives are often isolated from natural products, but are also synthetically accessible in many ways.

preferred Compositions of the invention contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention cosmetic stick compositions characterized in that they - based on their weight - a total amount from 0.001-2.5% by weight, preferably 0.01-1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1-0.8 wt .-% and in particular 0.2-0.5 % By weight of purine (s) and / or purine derivative (s).

in der die Reste R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, -OH, -NH₂, -SH und die Reste R⁴, R⁵ und R⁶ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus -H, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe.Particularly preferred purine derivatives are selected from compounds of the general structure (PUR-I),

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH, -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, a C C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical , a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -bis C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ C ₆ alkyl group.

• – Purin(R¹ = R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Adenin (R¹ = NH₂, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Guanin (R¹ = OH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Harnsäure (R¹ = R² = R³ = OH, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Hypoxanthin (R¹ = OH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Purinthiol (R¹ = SH, R² = R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – 6-Thioguanin (R¹ = SH, R² = NH₂, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Xanthin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = H)
• – Coffein (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theobromin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = R⁴ = H, R⁵ = R⁶ = CH₃)
• – Theophyllin (R¹ = R² = OH, R³ = H, R⁴ = CH₃, R⁵ = CH₃, R⁶ = H).

Particularly preferred cosmetic compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain purine and / or purine derivative (s) of the formula (PUR-I) in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² and R ^{3 are} independently selected from -H, -OH , -NH ₂ , -SH and the radicals R ⁴ , R ⁵ and R ^{6 are} independently selected from -H, -CH ₃ and -CH ₂ -CH ₃ , wherein the following compounds are extremely preferred:

• Purine (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Adenine (R ¹ = NH ₂ , R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Guanine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Uric acid (R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = OH, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Hypoxanthine (R ¹ = OH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-purethiol (R ¹ = SH, R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• 6-thioguanine (R ¹ = SH, R ² = NH ₂ , R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Xanthine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = H)
• Caffeine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• - Theobromine (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = R ⁴ = H, R ⁵ = R ⁶ = CH ₃ )
• Theophylline (R ¹ = R ² = OH, R ³ = H, R ⁴ = CH ₃ , R ⁵ = CH ₃ , R ⁶ = H).

wobei in der Formel (PUR-II) die Reste R⁶, R⁷ und R⁸, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Mono hydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe und einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, wobei Coffein (R⁶ = R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃), Theobromin (R⁶ = H, R⁷ = R⁸ = CH₃) und Theophyllin (R⁶ = R⁷ = CH₃, R⁸ = H) außerordentlich bevorzugt sind.Compounds of the general formula (PUR-I) in which R ¹ and / or R ² correspond to an OH group exist in tautomeric compounds, especially those of the general formula (PUR-II), starting from (PUR-I) with R ¹ = R ² = OH:

in the formula (PUR-II), the radicals R ⁶ , R ⁷ and R ⁸ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ mono hydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkoxy (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkyl group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkylamino, C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkoxy, C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkyl- (C ₁ -C ₄ ) -aminoalkyl or a (di-C ₁ - bis C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group and an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, wherein caffeine (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ), theobromine (R ⁶ = H, R ⁷ = R ⁸ = CH ₃ ) and theophylline (R ⁶ = R ⁷ = CH ₃ , R ⁸ = H) are extremely preferred.

ever according to the desired application of the cosmetic composition may vary the type and amount of purine derivative. According to the invention preferred are the purine derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 2 wt .-%, especially preferably from 0.001 to 1.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain. In pens for anticellulite treatment according to the invention In particular caffeine has proven itself to the skin, for example in anticellulite agents, preferably in amounts of 0.01-2 Wt .-%, more preferably 0.1-1.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.2-0.8 wt .-%, each based on the agent included is.

Especially preferred purine derivatives are selected from the natural ones occurring xanthine derivatives, in particular selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline.

in der die Reste R¹, R², R³, R⁴ und R⁵, die gleich oder verschieden sein können, ausgewählt sind aus einem Wasserstoffatom, einem Halogenatom, einem C₁- bis C₄-Alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Monohydroxyalkylrest, einem C₂- bis C₄-Polyhydroxyalkylrest, einem (C₁- bis C₄)-Alkoxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Aminoalkylrest, einem Hydroxy-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylaminorest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkoxyrest, einem C₁- bis C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-(C₁-bis C₄)-aminoalkylrest oder einem (Di-C₁- bis C₄-Alkylamino)-(C₁- bis C₄)-alkylrest, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Arylgruppe, insbesondere einer Phenylgruppe, einer gegebenenfalls substituierten Heteroarylgruppe, einer Aryl-C₁-C₆-alkylgruppe, einer Acylgruppe, einer Sulfonylgruppe oder einem Zucker, und den kosmetisch verträglichen Salzen von (APO-ALK-I) mit einer Säure, in Form aller 15 optischen Isomere, in isomerenreiner Form oder als Mischung optischer Isomere.Aporphin alkaloids preferred according to the invention are selected from compounds of the general structure (APO-ALK-I),

in which the radicals R ¹ , R ² , R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ , which may be identical or different, are selected from a hydrogen atom, a halogen atom, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -monohydroxyalkyl radical, a C ₂ - to C ₄ -polyhydroxyalkyl radical, a (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkoxy- (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) -alkyl radical, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -aminoalkyl radical, a hydroxy - (C ₁ - to C ₄₎ alkylamino group, a C ₁ - to C ₄ -Hydroxyalkoxyrest, a C ₁ - to C ₄ hydroxyalkyl (C ₁ to C ₄₎ aminoalkyl radical or a (di-C ₁ - to C ₄ alkylamino) - (C ₁ - to C ₄ ) alkyl, an optionally substituted aryl group, in particular a phenyl group, an optionally substituted heteroaryl group, an aryl-C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl group, an acyl group, a sulfonyl group or a Sugar, and the cosmetically acceptable salts of (APO-ALK-I) with an acid, in the form of all 15 optical isomers, in isomerically pure form or as a mixture of optical isomers.

Examples of the C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl radicals mentioned as substituents in the compounds combined according to the invention are the groups methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl and butyl. Ethyl and methyl are preferred alkyl radicals. C ₁ -C ₄ -alkoxy radicals preferred according to the invention are, for example, a methoxy or an ethoxy group. Furthermore, as preferred examples of a C ₁ - to C ₄ -hydroxyalkyl group, a hydroxymethyl, a 2-hydroxyethyl, a 3-hydroxypropyl or a 4-hydroxybutyl group may be mentioned. A 2-hydroxyethyl group is particularly preferred. A particularly preferred C ₂ to C ₄ polyhydroxyalkyl group is the 1,2-dihydroxyethyl group. Examples of halogen atoms are according to the invention F, Cl or Br atoms, Cl atoms are very particularly preferred.

When Sugar residue can be any mono- or oligo-, especially Disaccharides are used. Usually, sugar with 5 or 6 carbon atoms and the corresponding oligosaccharides used. Such sugars are, for example, glucose, fructose, Galactose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, lyxose, allose, altrose, mannose, Gulose, idose, talose and sucrose. Preferred sugar building blocks are Glucose, fructose, galactose, arabinose and sucrose; Glucose is particularly preferred.

Particularly preferred aporphine alkaloids are selected from compounds of the general structure (APO-ALK-I) in which R ¹ = R ² = R ³ = R ⁴ = R ⁵ = CH ₃ . This compound is also referred to as 1,2,9,10-tetramethoxyaporphin.

preferred Compositions according to the invention contain at least an aporphine alkaloid in narrower ranges. Here are preferred according to the invention cosmetic compositions characterized in that they - related on her weight - a total of 0.0001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-0.5 wt .-%, more preferably 0.002-0.1 wt .-% and in particular 0.005-0.01 wt .-% at least an aporphine alkaloid.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions of the invention Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention, ectoine is preferred in amounts from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably from 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcine. OF INVENTION According to the invention, creatine is preferred in amounts of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). One Olive leaf extract particularly preferred according to the invention is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG by Vincience available. Another invention especially preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the extract as Commercial product tel quel throughout the invention Composition, included.

Olive leaf extracts can be high in oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein. In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Oleanol, oleanolic acid and / or oleuropein in a total amount from 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-%, each based to the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the compositions of the invention Ursolic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they have ursolic acid in one Total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an active ingredient selected from mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. Polyhydroxystilbenes according to the invention are stilbenes understood as having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxy groups substituted on the two phenyl radicals, which esterified could be. Mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and fibroblasts. Particularly according to the invention Preferred hydroxystilbenes and their esters are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, -di- and -triphosphorsäureestern and their salts. One Resveratrolphosphorsäureester particularly preferred according to the invention is Trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. B. available from Ajinomoto.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5% by weight, preferably 0.00001-1 wt%, more preferably 0.0001-0.1 % By weight, and most preferably 0.005-0.05 Wt .-%, contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrrolidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrrolidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrrolidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrrolidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Especially Sodium hyaluronates are preferably dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol Hyaluronates, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred Embodiment contain the inventive Compositions at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total amounts of 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.005-1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, respectively based on the active substance throughout the invention Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the Compositions according to the invention phytic acid. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they produce phytic acid in a total of 0.001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract). An inventively particularly preferred extract from corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner available from the company Coletica. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular Matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 Wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea Mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Extract). A particularly preferred according to the invention Oat grain extract is under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) available from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. According to the invention particularly preferred cosmetic or Dermatological compositions are characterized in that they have at least one active ingredient selected Extracts from oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract), in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt.%, preferably 0.1-3 Wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-% contained, respectively based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. In accordance with the invention particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are characterized that they have at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, more preferably 0.001-0.05 Wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the whole composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one product obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbioti Saccharomyces and Xylinum is obtained and bears the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Such products increase and / or enhance the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is available under the trade name Kombuchka from the company Sederma (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethyl cellulose).

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a product obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum is referred to as KOmbucha and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. such Increase and / or enhance the interaction between products the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred Product is under the trade name Kombuchka by the company Sederma available (INCI name: Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose).

Further Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they have at least one active ingredient selected from products produced by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment, in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3% by weight, more preferably 1-2% by weight in each case based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the is selected from products produced by fermentation of sweetened black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter xylinum are obtained and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount from 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract). Increase and / or improve the type of extracts the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly preferred according to the invention Apple Kernel Extracts are under the tradename Ederline of available from Seporga. The product contains Ederline Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble Form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble Form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains the raw material Ederline in quantities from 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight, and especially preferably 3-5% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain. Particularly preferred according to the invention cosmetic or dermatological compositions are thereby in that it contains at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and particularly preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). such Extracts increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred lotus germ extract is under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract available from Maruzen.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of lotus seeds (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one extract of lotus seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of red wine. Increase such extracts and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular Matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred red wine extract is under the trade name Sepivinol R available from Seppic.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of grape seeds (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract). Such extracts increase and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred grape seed extracts according to the invention are under the trade name Herbalia Grape by the company Cognis or available under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay from Croda.

Particularly according to the invention Stick compositions are characterized by being at least an extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 2-3 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one extract of grape seeds in quantities of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the whole composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an extract of black elderflower (Sambucus nigra Flower extract). Increase and / or improve such extracts the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. An invention particularly preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO from the company Alpaflor / Centerchem or available from Permcos.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that Make at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-5% by weight and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that Make at least one extract of black elderflower in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an agent that inhibits beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes stimulated. Particularly preferred according to the invention Stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from mixtures of at least one extract from the leaves the Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, wherein aqueous, glycolic or aqueous-glycolic Preparations of these extract mixtures under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from the company Solabia are available, are particularly preferred. One Another particularly preferred stimulator of the beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecylester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, the z. B. as aqueous Preparation under the trade name Calmosensine by the company Sederma is available.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin from the company exsymol, a by microbial fermenta obtained branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product, the contains the active ingredient throughout the invention Composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active substance for Stimulation of beta-endorphin synthesis in total levels of .00001-1 Wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and particularly preferred 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance throughout the composition of the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an inorganic and / or at least one organic UV filter substance. The UV filter substances are at room temperature liquid or crystalline substances present in the Are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the recorded Energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, z. B. heat, to give up again. One differentiates between UVA filters and UVB filters. The UVA and UVB filters can be used individually as well as in mixtures be used. The use of filter mixtures is preferred according to the invention.

The organic UV filters used according to the invention are selected from the physiologically tolerated derivatives of dibenzoylmethane, cinnamic acid esters, diphenylacrylic acid esters, benzophenone, camphor, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, o-aminobenzoic acid esters, salicylic acid esters, benzimidazoles, symmetrically or asymmetrically substituted 1,3,5-triazines, monomers and oligomeric 4,4-diarylbutadiene carboxylic acid esters and carboxylic acid amides, ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane, benzalmalonic acid esters, benzoxazole, and any mixtures of said components. The organic UV filters can be oil-soluble or water-soluble. According to the invention particularly preferred oil-soluble UV filters are 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (Parsol ^® 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'- isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid 2-octyl ester, 4 - (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester, propyl 4-methoxycinnamate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene), 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, salicylic acid-4 isopropylbenzyl ester, salicylic acid homomenthyl ester (3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 4-methoxybenzmalonic acid malonate -2-ethylhexyl, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine (octyl Triazone, Uvinul ^® T 150), Dimethicodiethylbenzal (CAS -No. 207574-74-1, Parsol ^® SLX), di octyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®), 2,4-bis- [5-1 (di-methylpropyl) benzoxazol-2-yl- (4-phenyl) imino] -6- (2-ethylhexyl) imino-1 , 3,5-triazine (CAS no. 288254-16-0, Uvasorb K2A ^®) and any desired mixtures of the stated components.

preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, Phenylene-1,4-bis- (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic and their alkali, alkaline earth, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and their salts, sulfonic acid derivatives of the 3-benzylidene camphor, such as B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and its Salts.

Some of the oil-soluble UV filters can themselves serve as solvents or solubilizers for other UV filters. Thus, solutions of the UV-A-filter 1 can be, for example, (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione (z. B. Parsol ^® 1789) in various UV-B Make filters. Therefore, in a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione in combination with at least one UV-B filter selected from 4 2-ethylhexyl methoxy cinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamate, 2-ethyl salicylate hexyl ester and 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexylsalicylate. In these combinations, the weight ratio of UV-B filter to 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione is between 1: 1 and 10: 1, preferably between 2 : 1 and 8: 1, the molar ratio is between 0.3 and 3.8, preferably between 0.7 and 3.0.

The inventively preferred inorganic photoprotective pigments are finely dispersed or colloidally disperse metal oxides and metal salts, for example titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, iron oxide, aluminum oxide, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, silicates (talc) and barium sulfate. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably between 5 and 50 nm and in particular between 15 and 30 nm, so-called nanopigments. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, such as. Example, titanium dioxide T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Particularly preferred are titanium dioxide and zinc oxide.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one organic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-30% by weight, preferably 0.5-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-15 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 3.0-10 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inorganic UV filter substance in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 wt .-% and exceptionally preferred 2.0-4.0% by weight, based in each case on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a self-tanning agent. According to the invention preferred Self-tanning agents are selected from Dihydroxyacetone, tyrosine, tyrosine derivatives, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and erythrulose.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that at least one self-tanning agent in one Total amount of 0.1-15 wt .-%, preferably 0.5-10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-5 wt .-% and extraordinarily preferably 2.0-4.0 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one skin-lightening active ingredient. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected from ascorbic acid, the esters of ascorbic acid with phosphoric acid and / or organic C ₂ -C ₂₀ -carboxylic acids and their alkali and alkaline earth metal salts, kojic acid, hydroquinone, arbutin, mulberry extract and licorice extract, and mixtures thereof. Both as a single substance and as a mixture, the ascorbic acid derivatives and kojic acid are preferred. Particularly preferred are sodium ascorbyl phosphate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl monopalmitate, ascorbyl dipalmitate, ascorbyl monostearate, ascorbyl distearate, ascorbyl monoethyl hexanoate, ascorbyl diethylhexanoate, ascorbyl monooctanoate, ascorbyl dioctanoate, ascorbyl monoisostearate and ascorbyl diisostearate. The invention extraordinarily preferred ascorbic acid derivatives are sodium ascorbyl phosphate and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that at least one skin lightening agent in a total amount from 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 2% by weight, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least an active ingredient that stimulates prostaglandin synthesis and / or leukotriene synthesis inhibited.

preferred Agents that inhibit prostaglandin synthesis are selected from active substances that inhibit the enzyme cyclooxygenase and active substances, the distribution of interleukins, in particular of Interleukin-1-alpha, inhibit. For the purposes of the present invention Under the inhibition of cyclooxygenase, both a decrease the amount of this enzyme as well as a reduction of its activity as well as both of these are understood.

preferred Agents that inhibit leukotriene synthesis are selected from drugs that inhibit the enzyme 5-lipoxygenase. For the purpose of The present invention can be used to inhibit 5-lipoxygenase both a decrease in the amount of this enzyme and a reduction his activity and both are understood.

According to the invention preferred Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis, especially inhibitors cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin release, are selected from silymarin, which is particularly preferred is used in liposome-encapsulated form (available z. B. under the trade name Silymarin Phytosome (INCI: Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids) from Indena SpA. silymarin represents an active ingredient concentrate formerly considered as a single substance from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) The main constituents of silymarin are silylbin (silymarin I), Silychrist (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, which belong to the Flavanolignane group belong. Further preferred according to the invention Inhibitors of prostaglandin synthesis, especially inhibitors cyclooxygenase and / or interleukin release, are selected from extracts of Centella asiatica, for example available under the name Madecassicoside from DSM, Glycyrrethinsäure, the most preferred in liposomes encapsulated present and in this form z. B. under the trade name Calmsphere is available from Soliance, blends of grain waxes, Extracts of shea butter and Argania spinosa oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil. B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS from the company Pentapharm Available are extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, such as they z. B. under the trade name Vanirea (INCI: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) are available from Solabia, extracts from olive leaves (INCI: Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), in particular under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from the company Vincience, also algin hydrolyzates, as they are z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, in particular Phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif, Extracts from Bacopa Monniera, as z. B. under the trade name Bacocalmins are available from the company Sederma, extracts from the rooibos plant, such as B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE available from Cosmetochem are the physiologically acceptable salts of sterol sulfates, as they are z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesins (INCI: Sodium beta-sitosteryl sulfates) available from Vincience are, as well as any mixtures of these agents.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inhibitor of Prostaglandin synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and exceptionally preferred 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Preferred inhibitors of leukotriene synthesis according to the invention, in particular inhibitors of 5-lipoxygenase, are selected from algin hydrolyzates, amino dicarboxylic acids having a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their physiologically tolerated salts, N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids with C ₁ C ₂₂ alkyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids with C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radicals and their physiologically acceptable salts, yeast extracts, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, allantoin and any mixtures thereof agents.

In a preferred embodiment, the inventive Alginhydrolysate selected from the products, the z. B. under the trade name phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides Al, available from Codif.

In Another preferred embodiment is the preferred according to the invention Aminodicarboxylic acids with a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms selected from aminomalonic acid, Amino-succinic acid (= aspartic acid), aminoglutaric acid and aminoadipic acid and their physiologically acceptable Salt. Particularly preferred are aspartic acid and their physiologically acceptable salts, especially potassium aspartate and magnesium aspartate.

According to the invention preferred become the amino dicarboxylic acids with a C chain length of 3-6 carbon atoms and their salts in amounts of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5-1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Composition, used.

In another preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from alanine, glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, Tryptophan, phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, Ty rosin, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine, and their physiologically acceptable salts which on the nitrogen atom of the amino group is a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, octyl, nonyl , Decyl, undecyl, dodecyl (lauryl), tridecyl, tetradecyl (myristyl), pentadecyl, hexadecyl (palmityl, cetyl), heptadecyl, octadecyl (stearyl), nonadecyl, eicosanyl (arachidyl) and behenyl. Particularly preferred is N-methylglycine (= sarcosine).

Preference according to the invention is given to the N-alkylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. % and particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the inventively preferred N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical selected from glutamic acid, pyroglutamic acid, lysine, arginine, histidine, valine, leucine, isoleucine, proline, tryptophan, Phenylalanine, methionine, glycine, serine, tyrosine, threonine, cysteine, asparagine and glutamine and their physiologically acceptable salts. The amino acids can be used individually or in a mixture. Particularly suitable according to the invention are amino acid mixtures which have been obtained from plants, in particular cereal plants. The C ₂ -C ₂₂ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as a cocoyl radical and are simply if preferred substituents. Particularly preferred are sodium cocoyl amino acids, sodium octanoyl glutamate, sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate, and the lauroyl derivatives of cereal plant derived amino acids.

The Cereal plants from which the invention suitable Amino acids are obtained, are subject to no restriction. Suitable are, for example, oats, wheat, barley and rye; especially suitable is oats.

One particularly preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor is the commercial product Seppicalm from the company Seppic with the INCI name "Sodium Cocoyl Aminoacids, Sarcosine, Potassium Aspartate, Magnesium Aspartate ".

According to the invention, preference is given to the N-acylated C ₂ -C ₁₁ -amino acids having a C ₂ -C ₂₂ -acyl radical and their physiologically tolerable salts in amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight. % and more preferably 0.5-2 wt .-%, each based on the total topical composition used.

In Another preferred embodiment, the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors prefer yeast extracts in amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.01-2% by weight and more preferably 0.1-1 wt .-%, each based on the extract tel quel throughout the composition of the invention, used. A particularly preferred commercial product is Drieline (INCI name "sorbitol, Yeast Extract"), available from the company Lanatech.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor α-bisabolol in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Stick composition used.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor α-lipoic acid in amounts of 0.001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01-2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-1 wt .-%, each based on the entire stick composition according to the invention, used.

In Another preferred embodiment of the present invention is preferred 5-lipoxygenase inhibitor allantoin in amounts of 0.001-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1-1 Wt .-%, each based on the total inventive Stick composition used.

In a further preferred embodiment, the physiologically tolerated salts of the sterol sulfates which are preferred according to the invention as 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate, ergosterol sulfate, stigmasterol sulfate, cholesterol sulfate and lanosterol sulfate. Especially preferred are the salts of β-sitosterol sulfate. The sterol sulphate salts are used in amounts of 0.001-5% by weight, preferably 0.01-2% by weight and more preferably 0.1-1% by weight, in each case based on the total stick composition according to the invention. The Sterolsulfatsalze can be used both individually and in any mixtures. A particularly preferred commercial product is phytocohesins (INCI name "Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate"), available from Vincience.

The Physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned 5-lipoxygenase inhibitors are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, Calcium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts. Preferred are the Sodium, potassium, magnesium, aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one inhibitor of Leukotriene synthesis in a total amount of 0.0001-10.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight and exceptionally preferred 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment include the at least a sebum-regulating agent. According to the invention preferred sebum-regulating agents are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, Sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of Azelaic acid, especially potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria and mixtures the aforementioned substances. Preferred mixtures are, for example available as a commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience available. A preferred extract of Spiraea ulmaria is z. B. contained in the product Seboregul 2 Silab. Kaliumazeloyldiglycinat is z. B. contained in the product Azeloglicina Sinerga. Particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention or dermatological compositions are characterized that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient in total amounts from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.1 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the active substance throughout the composition of the invention, contain.

• – Nicotinsäureestern, insbesondere Nicotinsäurebenzylester (Benzylnicotinat), Nicotinsäurebutoxyethylester (Nicoboxil), Nicotinsäuremethylester, Nicotinsäureethylester, Nicotinsäurehexylester, Nicotinsäureisopropylester und Nicotinsäuremyristylester,
• – Pyridin-3-carbaldehyd (β-Pyridincarbaldehyd, Nicotinaldehyd),
• – Salicylsäureestern, insbesondere Phenylsalicylat,
• – Vanillylethern, insbesondere Vanillylbutylether,
• – Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, insbesondere Nonivamid,
• – Scharfstoffen, insbesondere Capsaicin, Cantharidin, Piperin, Gingerol, Zingeron, Myristicin, Safrol, Allicin, Sedamin, Sacculatal, Chalciporon, Isochalciporon, Velleral, Vellerol, und Isothiocyanaten (Senfölen), insbesondere Benzylsenföl, aber auch Allylsenföl (Allylisothiocyanat), 3-Methylthiopropylsenföl, Butylsenföl, 3-Butenylsenföl, Erucin, Erysolin, Hirsutin, Isopropylsenföl, β-Phenylethylsenföl, Sulforaphan und Sulforaphen (Raphanin),
• – Extrakten aus Scharfstoff-Pflanzen, insbesondere aus Capsicum, insbesondere aus Capsicum annuum und Capsicum frutescens, aber auch aus Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum und Capsicum pubescens, weiterhin aus Mauerpfeffer und aus der Zaunrübe,
• – Terpentinöl,
• – sowie Mischungen hiervon.

Further inventively particularly preferred Stifzusammensetzungen are characterized in that they contain at least one hyperemic agent. Hyperemic active agents preferred according to the invention are selected from

• Nicotinic acid esters, in particular nicotinic acid benzyl ester (benzyl nicotinate), nicotinic acid butoxyethyl ester (nicoboxil), nicotinic acid methyl ester, nicotinic acid ethyl ester, nicotinic acid hexyl ester, isopropyl nicotinate and nicotinic acid myristyl ester,
• Pyridine-3-carbaldehyde (β-pyridinecarbaldehyde, nicotinaldehyde),
• Salicylic acid esters, especially phenylsalicylate,
• - vanillyl ethers, in particular vanillyl butyl ether,
• - Carbonsäurevanillylamiden, in particular nonivamide,
• - Scharfstoffen, in particular capsaicin, cantharidin, piperine, gingerol, zingerone, myristicin, safrole, allicin, sedamin, sacculatal, chalciporone, isochalciporone, velleral, vellerol, and isothiocyanates (mustard oils), in particular benzyl mustard, but also allyl mustard (allyl isothiocyanate), 3- Methylthiopropyl mustard oil, butyl mustard oil, 3-butenyl mustard oil, erucine, erysoline, hirsutin, isopropyl mustard oil, β-phenylethyl soybean oil, sulforaphane and sulforaphane (raphanin),
• - Extracts from pungent plants, in particular from Capsicum, in particular from Capsicum annuum and Capsicum frutescens, but also from Capsicum chinense, Capsicum baccatum and Capsicum pubescens, furthermore from stonecrop and from the turnip,
• - turpentine oil,
• - And mixtures thereof.

According to the invention preferred hyperemic agents are commercially available in for cosmetic or dermatological compositions prepared Shape available. Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred active ingredients are ethyl nicotinate, vanillyl butyl ether, z. For example, the raw material Hotact VBE from Takasago, Capsaicin, is available z. As raw material Herbasol Extract Capsicum (INCI: Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Capsicum Frutescens Fruit Extract, Sorbitol) and N-Vanillylnonamide (Pseudocapsaicin).

preferred Pen compositions according to the invention are characterized characterized in that they have at least one hyperemic Active substance in a total amount of active substance of 0.005-3.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01-1.0, particularly preferably 0.05-0.5 Wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 0.1-0.35 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the inventive Pen composition, included.

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt, insbesondere (2-Hydroxyethyl)harnstoff und N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, Betain (Me₃N⁺-CH₂-COO^–), Chitosanen, Glycosaminoglycanen, besonders bevorzugt Hyaluronsäure, Dextran, Dextransulfat, Chondroitin-4-sulfat und Chondroitin-6-sulfat, sowie beliebigen Mischungen dieser Substanzen, insbesondere Mischungen aus N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff und Harnstoff sowie Mischungen aus N,N'-Bis(2-hydroxyethyl)harnstoff, Harnstoff und Lactaten, insbesondere Ammoniumlactat.Further inventively particularly preferred Stifzusammensetzungen are characterized in that they contain at least one moisturizing active ingredient which is selected from deoxysugars, more preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, particularly preferably a deoxysugar-containing polysaccharide with the INCI Biosaccharides Gum-1, for example, contained in the commercial product Fucogel ^® Solabia, containing a deoxy sugar building blocks polysaccharide with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, for example, in the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® of Solabia, a polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar building blocks with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3, for example, contain in the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia, a deoxy-blocks containing polysaccharide having the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4, for example in the commercial product Glyco containing film ^® from Solabia, further mixtures of the above, at least containing a deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, further urea, further alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted Urea of the general formula (UREA),

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, in particular (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea , Betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ), chitosans, glycosaminoglycans, particularly preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate, as well as any desired mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea and urea and mixtures of N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, urea and lactates, in particular ammonium lactate.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they are the at least one selected according to the invention (aforementioned) moisturizing agent in a total amount from 0.001-10% by weight, more preferably 0.01-5 Wt .-% and most preferably 0.1-1 or 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. The compounds listed as compulsory component e) are explicitly excluded from these quantities.

Further According to the invention, particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they have at least one coloring, containing a coloring, matting or lustering pigment. Preferred pigments of this type may be inorganic or be organic. Further preferred pigments have an average Particle diameter of 0.1-200 μm, preferably 0.5-100 μm, more preferably 1-50 μm and most preferably 2-30 μm on. Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are selected from the oxides of silicon, titanium, iron, zinc, zirconium, magnesium, Cerium and bismuth, of bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, mica, fluorspar and water-insoluble pearlescent pigments containing at least one inorganic and / or organic compound can be coated.

The dyes and pigments can be selected from the corresponding positive list of the Cosmetics Regulation or EC List of cosmetic colorants. In most cases, they are identical to the food-approved dyes. Particularly preferred coloring pigments are for example titanium dioxide, mica, iron oxides (eg., Fe ₂ O _3, Fe ₃ O _4, FeO (OH)) and / or tin oxide. Particularly preferred dyes are, for example, carmine, Berlin blue, chrome oxide green, ultramarine blue and / or manganese violet. It is particularly advantageous to choose the dyes and / or color pigments from the following list. The Color Index Numbers (CIN) are taken from the Rowe Color Index, 3rd Edition, Society of Dyers and Colourists, Bradford, England, 1971. Chemical or other name CIN colour Pigment Green 10006 ^green Acid Green 1 10020 green 2,4-Dinitrohydroxynaphthalin-7-sulfonic acid 10316 yellow Pigment Yellow 1 11680 yellow Pigment Yellow 3 11710 yellow Pigment Orange 1 11725 orange 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene 11920 orange Solvent Red 3 12010 red 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 12085 red Pigment Red 3 12120 red Ceresrot; Sudan Red; Fat Red G 12150 red Pigment Red 112 12370 red Pigment Red 7 12420 red Pigment Brown 1 12480 brown 4- (2'-methoxy-5'-sulfosäurediethylamid-1'-phenylazo) -3-hydroxy-5 '' - chloro-2 '', 4 '' - dimethoxy-2-naphthoic acid anilide 12490 red Disperse Yellow 16 12700 yellow 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -4-aminobenzene-5-sulfonic acid 13015 yellow 2,4-dihydroxy-azobenzene-4'-sulfonic acid 14270 orange 2- (2,4-Dimethylphenylazo-5-suffosäure) -1-hydroxynaphthalene-4-sulfonic acid 14700 _red 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid 14720 red 2- (6-sulfo-2,4-xylylazo) -1-naphthol-5-sulfonic acid 14815 red 1- (4'-sulfophenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15510 orange 1- (2-sulfonic acid 4-chloro-5-carboxylic acid-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15525 red 1- (3-methyl-phenylazo-4-sulfonic acid) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15580 _red 1- (4 ', (8') - Sulfosäurenaphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene 15620 red 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid 15630 red 3-hydroxy-4-phenylazo-2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15800 red 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid 15850 red 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-5-chloro-1-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15865 red 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid 15880 red 1- (3-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15980 orange 1- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid 15985 yellow Allura Red 16035 red 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 16185 red Acid Orange 10 16230 orange 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid 16255 red 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6,8-trisulfonic acid 16290 red 8-amino-2-phenylazo-1-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid 17200 red Acid Red 1 18050 red Acid Red 155 18130 red Acid Yellow 121 18690 yellow Acid Red 180 18736 red Acid Yellow 11 18820 yellow Acid Yellow 17 18965 yellow 4- (4-Sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid 19140 yellow Pigment Yellow 16 20040 yellow (2,6- (4'-sulfo-2 '', 4 '' - dimethyl) bis-phenylazo) 1,3-dihydroxybenzene 20170 orange Acid Black 1 20470 black Pigment Yellow 13 21100 yellow Pigment Yellow 83 21108 yellow Solvent Yellow 21230 yellow Acid Red 163 24790 red Acid Red 73 27290 red 2- [4 '- (4''-sulfo-1''- phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-7-aminonaphthalene-3,6-disulfonic acid 27755 black 4 '- [(4''-sulfo-1''- phenylazo) -7'-sulfo-1'-naphthylazo] -1-hydroxy-8-acetylaminonaphthalene-3,5-disulfonic acid 28440 black Direct Orange 34, 39, 44, 46, 60 40215 orange Food Yellow 40800 orange trans-β-apo-B'-carotenaldehyde (C ₃₀ ) 40820 orange trans-apo-8'-carotenoic acid (C ₃₀ ) ethyl ester 40825 orange canthaxanthin 40850 orange Acid Blue 1 42045 blue 2,4-disulfo-5-hydroxy-4'-4 '' - bis (diethylamino) triphenyl-carbinol 42051 blue 4 - [(- 4-N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzylamino) -phenyl- (4-hydroxy-2-sulfophenyl) - (methylene) -1- (N-ethylN-p-sulfobenzyl) -2,5-cyclohexadienimine] 42053 green Acid blue 7 42080 blue (N-ethyl-p-sulfobenzyl-amino) -phenyl- (2-sulfophenyl) methylene (N-ethyl-Np-sulfobenzyl) -2,5-cyclohexadienimine 42090 blue Acid Green 9 42100 green Diethyl-di-sulfobenzyl-di-4-amino-2-chloro-di-2-methyl-fuchsonimmonium 42170 green Basic Violet 14 42510 violet Basic Violet 2 42520 violet 2'-methyl-4 '- (N-ethyl-Nm-sulfobenzyl) amino-4''- (N-diethyl) amino-2-methyl-N-ethylN-m-sulfobenzyl-fuchsonimmonium 42735 blue 4 '- (N-Dimethyl) amino-4''- (N-phenyl) -aminonaphtho-N-dimethyl-fuchsonimmonium 44045 blue 2-hydroxy-3,6-disulfo-4,4'-bis-dimethylamino-naphthofuchsonimmonium 44090 green Acid Red 52 45100 red 3- (2'-methylphenylamino) -6- (2'-methyl-4'-sulfophenylamino) -9- (2 '' - carboxyphenyl) -xantheniumsalz 45190 violet Acid Red 50 45220 red Phenyl-2-oxyfluoron-2-carboxylic acid 45350 yellow 4.5-Dibromofluorescein 45370 orange 2,4,5,7-Tetrabromfluorescein 45380 red Solvent dye 45396 orange Acid Red 98 45405 _red 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromfluorescein 45410 red 4.5-Diiodfluorescein 45425 red 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein 45430 red quinophthalone 47000 yellow Quinophthalone disulphonic 47005 yellow Acid Violet 50 50325 violet Acid Black 2 50420 black Pigment Violet 23 51319 violet 1,2-dioxyanthraquinone, calcium-aluminum complex 58000 red 3-Oxypyren-5,8,10-sulfonic acid 59040 green 1-hydroxy-4-N-phenyl-aminoanthraquinone 60724 violet 1-hydroxy-4- (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 60725 violet Acid Violet 23 60730 violet 1,4-di (4'-methylphenylamino) anthraquinone 61565 green 1,4-bis (o-sulfo-p-toluidino) anthraquinone 61570 green Acid Blue 80 61585 blue Acid Blue 62 62045 blue N, N'-dihydro-1,2,1 ', 2'-anthrachinonazin 69800 blue Vat Blue 6; Pigment Blue 64 69825 blue Vat Orange 7 71105 orange indigo 73000 blue Indigo-disulfonic 73015 blue 4,4'-dimethyl-6,6'-dichlorothioindigo 73360 red 5,5'-dichloro-7,7'-dimethylthioindigo 73385 violet Quinacridone Violet 19 73900 violet Pigment Red 122 73915 red Pigment Blue 16 74100 blue phthalocyanines 74160 blue Direct Blue 86 74180 blue Chlorinated phthalocyanines 74260 green Natural Yellow 6.19; Natural Red 1 75100 yellow Bixin, nor-bixin 75120 orange lycopene 75125 yellow trans-alpha, beta or gamma-carotene 75130 orange Keto and / or hydroxyl derivatives of carotene 75135 yellow Guanine or pearlescing agent 75170 White 1,7-bis (4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl) 1,6-heptadiene-3,5-dione 75300 yellow Complex salt (Na, Al, Ca) of karmic acid 75470 red Chlorophyll a and b; Copper compounds of chlorophylls and chlorophyllins 75810 green aluminum 77000 White alumina hydrate 77002 White Water-containing aluminum silicates 77004 White ultramarine 77007 blue Pigment Red 101 and 102 77015 red barium sulfate 77120 White Bismuth oxychloride and its mixtures with mica 77163 White calcium carbonate 77220 White calcium sulphate 77231 White carbon 77266 black Pigment Black 9 77267 black Carbo medicinalis vegetabilis 77268: 1 black chromium 77288 green Chromium oxide, hydrous 77289 green Pigment Blue 28, Pigment Green 14 77346 green Pigment Metal 2 77400 brown gold 77480 brown Iron oxides and hydroxides 77489 orange iron oxide 77491 red iron oxide 77492 yellow iron oxide 77499 black Mixtures of iron (II) and iron (III) hexacyanoferrate 77510 blue Pigment White 18 77713 White Mangananimoniumdiphosphat 77742 violet Manganese phosphate; Mn ₃ (PO ₄ ) ₂ .7H ₂ O 77745 red silver 77820 White Titanium dioxide and its mixtures with mica 77891 White zinc oxide 77947 White 6,7-dimethyl-9- (1'-D-ribityl) -isoalloxazine, lactoflavin yellow caramel brown Capsanthin, Capsorubin orange betanin red Benzopyrylium salts, anthocyanins red Aluminum, zinc, magnesium and calcium stearate White Bromthymolblau blue bromocresol green Acid Red 195 red

It may also be preferred according to the invention, as Dye one or more substances from the following group 2,4-dihydroxyazobenzene, 1- (2'-chloro-4'-nitro-1'-phenylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene, Ceres red, 2- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -1-naphthol-4-sulfonic acid, Calcium salt of 2-hydroxy-1,2'-azonaphthalene-1'-sulfonic acid, Calcium and barium salts of 1- (2-sulfo-4-methyl-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthylcarboxylic acid, calcium salt 1- (2-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-hydroxynaphthalene-3-carboxylic acid, Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -2-naphthol-6-sulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-3,6-disulfonic acid, 1- (4-sulfo-1-naphthylazo) -2-naphthol-6,8-disulfonic acid, Aluminum salt of 4- (4-sulfo-1-phenylazo) -1- (4-sulfophenyl) -5-hydroxy-pyrazolone-3-carboxylic acid, Aluminum and zirconium salts of 4,5-dibromofluorescein, aluminum and zirconium salts of 2,4,5,7-tetrabromofluorescein, 3 ', 4', 5 ', 6'-tetrachloro-2,4,5,7-tetrabromo-fluorescein and its aluminum salt, aluminum salt of 2,4,5,7-tetraiodofluorescein, Aluminum salt of quinophthalone-disulfonic acid, aluminum salt indigo-disulfonic acid, red and black iron oxide (CIN: 77,491 (red) and 77,499 (black)), iron oxide hydrate (CIN: 77 492), manganese ammonium diphosphate and titanium dioxide.

Further According to the invention preferred dye pigments are oil-soluble Natural dyes, such as. As paprika extracts, β-carotene or Cochineal.

According to the invention preferred Pearlescent pigments are selected from natural Pearlescent pigments, such as. B. "fish silver" (guanine / hypoxanthine mixed crystals from fish scales) and "mother of pearl" (ground mussel shells), monocrystalline Pearlescent pigments, such as. Bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl), and layer substrate Pigments, e.g. Mica / metal oxide. Basis for pearlescent pigments are, for example, pulverulent pigments or castor oil dispersions of bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide and bismuth oxychloride and / or titanium dioxide on mica. Particular preference is z. For example, listed under the CIN 77163 luster pigment.

Also preferred according to the invention are the following pearlescent pigment types based on metal oxide-coated mica: group Coating / layer thickness colour Silver-white pearlescent pigments TiO ₂ : 40-60 nm silver interference pigments TiO ₂ : 60-80 nm yellow TiO ₂ : 80-100 nm red TiO ₂ : 100-140 nm blue TiO ₂ : 120-160 nm green Color Luster Pigments Fe ₂ O ₃ bronze Fe ₂ O ₃ copper Fe ₂ O ₃ red Fe ₂ O ₃ rotviolett Fe ₂ O ₃ Red Green Fe ₂ O ₃ black combination pigments TiO ₂ / Fe ₂ O ₃ golds TiO ₂ / Cr ₂ O ₃ green TiO ₂ / Berlin Blue deep blue TiO ₂ / Carmine red

Particularly according to the invention preferred are z. B. by Merck under the trade name Timiron, Colorona or Dichrona available pearlescent pigments.

Of course, the list of pearlescent pigments mentioned should not be limiting. Pearlescent pigments which are advantageous in the context of the present invention are obtainable in numerous ways known per se. For example, in addition to mica, other substrates can be coated with other metal oxides, such as. As silica and the like. Advantageous z. B. with TiO ₂ and Fe ₂ O ₃ coated SiO ₂ particles ("Ronasphere"), which are sold by Merck and are particularly suitable for the optical reduction of fine wrinkles.

Moreover, it may be preferred according to the invention to dispense entirely with a substrate such as mica. Particularly preferred are pearlescent pigments prepared using SiO ₂ . Such pigments, which may also have additional goniochromatic effects are, for. B. under the trade name Sicopearl Fantastico available from BASF.

Farther Preference is given to pigments from Engelhard / Mearl based on Calcium sodium borosilicate coated with titanium dioxide. These are available under the name Reflecks.

she show by their particle size of 40-180 microns a glittering effect in addition to the color.

Especially Also advantageous are also effect pigments, which are under the trade name Metasomes Standard / Glitter in different colors (yellow, red, green, blue) are available from Flora Tech. The Glitter particles lie in mixtures with various auxiliary and dyes (such as the dyes with the color Index (CI) numbers 19140, 77007, 77289, 77491).

The dyes and pigments can be present both individually and in a mixture and be mutually coated with one another, with different coating thicknesses in general ne color effects are caused.

Further preferred pigments are selected from colored and colorless Pigments. Some of the following pigments are also used as a UV absorber. Particularly preferred colored pigments are selected from the iron oxides with the Color Index numbers CI 77491 (iron oxide red), CI 77492 (iron oxide hydrate yellow) and CI 77499 (iron oxide black), from CI 77891 (titanium dioxide) and carbon black.

Especially preferred pigments are the commercial products SUNPMMA-S and SUNSIL Tin 30 from Sunjin Chemicals Co. having an average particle diameter of 5-10 μm and 2-7 μm, respectively.

Particularly preferred inorganic pigments are coated. The coating can be carried out with the aid of inorganic and / or organic compounds. Particularly preferred according to the invention are inorganic pigments which have an inorganic coating. Exceptionally preferred pigments of this type are selected from silica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or iron oxides. A particularly preferred pigment of this type is the commercial product Ronasphere ^® LDP Merck KGaA. This product is a spherical silica particle coated with titanium dioxide and iron oxide.

Ronasphere LDP ^® has a mean particle diameter of 4-7 microns.

Farther preference is given to inorganic-coated mica pigments which have no Pearlescent exhibit.

Further preferred inorganic coated inorganic pigments are mica pigments coated with titanium dioxide in different layer thicknesses, for example, the products of the Timiron ^® series from Rona / Merck KGaA, in particular pigments of the product lines Timiron ^® MP, Timiron ^® Super, Timiron ^® Starlight and Timiron ^® Silk. The products mentioned have average particle diameters of 5-60 μm or 10-60 μm or 10-125 μm or 5-25 μm. Also preferred are mica particles having a coating of titanium dioxide and iron oxide, e.g. , The commercial products Timiron ^® MP-20, MP-24, MP-25, MP-28, MP-29, MP-60 and MP-65th Also preferred according to the invention are mica particles coated with titanium dioxide and / or red and / or black iron oxide, eg. For example, the products of the Colorona ^® series. Further preferred pigments are silica gel-coated mica pigments, e.g. As the commercial product Micronasphere ^® M. Further inventively preferred pigments are inorganic coated inorganic pigments whose coating has a proportion of 0.1-1 wt .-% tin oxide.

Also preferred according to the invention are inorganic pigments which are coated with organic substances. Preferred examples thereof are coated with aluminum titanium dioxide pigments (eg., The commercial product MT 100 T from the company Tayca), dimethylpolysiloxane (dimethicone) coated zinc oxide, with dimethicone-coated boron nitride (Tres BN ^® UHP in 1106 from Carborundum), with a mixture of dimethylpolysiloxane and silica gel (simethicone) and hydrated aluminum oxide (alumina) coated titanium dioxide (Eusolex ^® T 2000 by Merck), with octylsilanol coated titanium dioxide particles or spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan-(Aerosil ^® R972 from Degussa).

Another particularly preferred pigment is the commercial product SB-705 from Miyoshi Kasei, a spherical silica gel with the INCI name Silica, which has an average particle diameter of 5-6 microns and a surface area of about 600 m ² / g.

Further According to the invention, particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that they have at least one coloring, coloring, matting or lustering pigment in a total amount from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 15% by weight, especially preferably 1.0 to 10% by weight and most preferably 2-5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of composition according to the invention.

Further inventively preferred stick compositions are characterized in that (in addition to the at least one cosmetic active ingredient) a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably at most 4 wt .-%, more preferably at most 3 wt .-%, most preferably at most 2 wt furthermore very preferably at most 1% by weight and furthermore extremely preferably at most 0.5% by weight of at least one aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salt is contained. Such low concentrations of a salt used as antiperspirant active ingredient in the O / W emulsion base according to the invention have too low an antiperspirant effect, so that they do not represent a commercial effective and successful antiperspirant product. However, it has surprisingly been found by those skilled in the art that the presence of an aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salt in amounts of not more than 5 wt .-%, preferably not more than 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably not more than 3 wt. %, even more preferably not more than 2% by weight and still more preferably not more than 1% by weight and still more preferably not more than 0.5% by weight further optimize the stability and / or the strength and / or the abrasion properties of the stick compositions according to the invention can. Particularly preferred stabilizing and / or strengthening aluminum and / or zirconium and / or zinc salts are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be in non-activated or in activated (depolymerized) form, also aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex-propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or -PEG, aluminum PG-dichlorhydrex or aluminum PEG-dichlorhydrex Aluminum hydroxide further selected from the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrates such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, the aluminum zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes such as aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium octachlorohydride exglycine, potassium aluminum sulfate (KAl (SO ₄ ) ₂ .12H ₂ O, alum), aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids , Aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate allantoinate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate.

Further According to the invention, particularly preferred stick compositions are characterized in that a maximum of 5 wt .-%, preferably a maximum 4 wt .-%, particularly preferably at most 3 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably at most 2% by weight and furthermore extraordinarily preferably at most 1 wt .-% and still extraordinary preferably at most 0.5 wt .-% of at least one aluminum and / or Zirconium and / or zinc salt and as further component at least a crosslinking substance are contained.

One Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for improving the appearance the skin, wherein a stick composition according to any one of claims 1-25 on the skin, especially on the underarm skin or the facial skin, is applied.

One Another object of the present invention is a cosmetic, Non-therapeutic method for sweat inhibition, wherein A stick composition according to any one of claims 1-25 on the skin, especially on the underarm skin, is applied.

Low melting wax component

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that at least one wax component having a melting point in the range of 25-50 ° C selected from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) and esters of saturated monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures of these substances is contained. These lower melting wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin. Particularly preferred are commercial products with the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably a mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides, which melts in the range of 30-32 ° C. as it is marketed, eg under the trade name Novata ^® AB from Cognis, and the products of Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, especially Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Other preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl stearate (e.g., Crodamol ^® CSS.), cetyl palmitate (for example Cutina ^® CP.) and myristyl myristate (eg. . Cetiol ^® MM).

Further particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention Pins are characterized in that the at least one wax component with a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ° C in quantities of 0,01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 3-20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 5-18 Wt .-% and most preferably 6-15 wt .-%, further preferably 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 wt .-%, based on the overall composition, is included.

fillers

Particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they further contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler for improving the stick consistency and the sensory properties. In an exceptionally preferred embodiment, this filler is selected from optionally modified starches (eg, from corn, rice, potatoes) and starch derivatives which are, if desired, pregelatinized, silica, silicic acids, e.g. As Aerosil ^® types, spherical Polyalkylsesquisiloxan particles (especially Aerosil ^® R972 and Aerosil ^® 200 V from Degussa), silica gels, talc, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, lactoglobulin derivatives, eg. As sodium C _8-18 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat from Brooks Industries available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE, glass powders, polymer powders, in particular of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, z. As nylon, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, which may be crosslinked, or silicones, and mixtures of these substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Other polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. B. polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder (ACCUREL ^® EP 400 from AKZO), or silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate filler in a total amount from 0.01 to 30 wt%, preferably 3-20 wt%, especially preferably 5-15% by weight, exceptionally preferred 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 and 14 wt .-%, each based on the Total composition, included.

fragrances

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that furthermore at least one perfume component is included.

When Perfume component may include perfumes, perfume oils or perfume oil ingredients. perfume oils or fragrances can according to the invention individual Fragrance compounds, eg. B. the synthetic products of the type the esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons be. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are e.g. B. benzyl acetate, Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DMBCA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, Ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, Benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Floramat, Melusat and Jasmecyclat. The ethers include, for example, benzyl ethyl ether and Ambroxan, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals with 8-18 C atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, cyclamen aldehyde, lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. As the Jonone, alpha-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons are mainly the terpenes like limonene and pinas. However, mixtures of different fragrances are preferred used, which together create an appealing scent.

Such Perfume oils can also be natural Fragrance mixtures contain as accessible from plant sources are, for. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are muscatel sage oil, chamomile oil, Clove oil, lemon balm oil, mint oil, cinnamon leaf oil, Lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, Olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil and orange blossom oil, neroli oil, orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances, the smell of a perfume or fragrance composed of several fragrances changes during evaporation, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" As the smell perception is based to a large extent on the odor intensity, the top note of a perfume or fragrance consists not only of volatile compounds, while the base note for the most part from less volatile , ie adherent Fragrances exists. For example, in the composition of perfumes, more volatile fragrances can be bound to certain fixatives, preventing them from evaporating too quickly. In the subsequent classification of the fragrances in "more volatile" or "adherent" fragrances so nothing about the olfactory impression and whether the corresponding fragrance is perceived as a head or middle note, nothing said.

Tenacious Fragrances that can be used in the context of the present invention are, for example, the essential oils like angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, Basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, champacabell oil, Edling fir oil, Edel fir cone oil, Elemiöl, Eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, Galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, Guaiac wood oil, gurdy balm oil, helichrysum oil, Ho oil, ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, Chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanga oil, cardamom oil, Cassia oil, pine needle oil, Kopaïva balsam oil, Coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, Cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, Tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, musk kernel oil, Myrrh oil, clove oil, neroli oil, niaouli oil, Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru balsam oil, petitgrain oil, pepper oil, Peppermint oil, allspice oil, pine oil, rose oil, Rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, Spiked oil, star aniseed oil, turpentine oil, thuja oil, Thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, Wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, Hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil, Citron oil, lemon oil and cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling or solid fragrances natural or of synthetic origin may be within the scope of the present invention Invention as adherent fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie Fragrances used. These connections include the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, Anisole, methyl anthranilate, acetophenone, benzylacetone, Benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, Benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, Farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, Heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, heptaldehyde, Hydroquinone dimethyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, Indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, Methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methyl acetophenone, Methylchavikol, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthylketone, Methyl n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, Nero, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, Salicylic acid isoamyl ester, salicylic acid methyl ester, Salicylic acid hexyl ester, cyclohexyl salicylate, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, γ-undelactone, Vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, Cinnamic acid ethyl ester, cinnamic acid benzyl ester.

To the more volatile fragrances count in particular the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic Usprung, which can be used alone or in mixtures. Examples of more volatile fragrances are Alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl-mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, Linalool, linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that at least one perfume component in a total amount of 0.00001 to 4% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 2% by weight, particularly preferably 0.2-1.5 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.6, 0.7, 0.8, 0.9, 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, 1.3 and 1.4 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is.

Penetration force values

In another particularly preferred embodiment, the stick compositions of the invention are characterized by a penetration force value in the range of 150-800 grams force (g-force), preferably 200-750 grams force (g-force), more preferably 350-600 grams force (g-force), with a penetration depth of 5,000 mm. The penetration force value is a measure of the hardness of a pencil (or even of a solid cream composition) and indicates with which maximum force a defined measuring probe, here a 45 ° stainless steel cone (model TA 15), up to a penetration depth suitable for the measurement , here up to a penetration depth of 5,000 mm (five point zero zero zero mm), with a feed rate of 2 mm / second vertically (axially) is moved into the pin mass to be measured. The determination of the penetration force value is carried out with the TA-XT2i Texture Analyzer from Stable Micro Systems (Vienna Court, Lammas Road, Godalming, Surrey GU7 1YL, England). The maximum force is given in grams force (g-force). Lower values mean softer cohesion Composition, harder compositions have a higher penetration force value. Creamy compositions are often measured at a penetration depth of 10,000 mm (ten point zero zero zero mm) to obtain more accurate values. This penetration depth can usually not be measured with harder pencil masses, as this often already begins to break the pencil mass. A doubling of the penetration depth means about a tripling to quadrupling the measured value of the maximum force. The measurements are carried out at ambient conditions of 30 ° C and 50% relative humidity, the sample temperature is 23 ° C. The measurements are preferably carried out 3 days and / or 4 weeks after production of the stick composition according to the invention.

In the DE 199 62 878 A1 and DE 199 62 881 A1 disclosed antiperspirant creams have penetration force values of 9-15 gram force (g-force) under the measurement conditions mentioned here.

Electrical resistance

The Water-containing pens disclosed in the prior art are nearly exclusively in the form of water-in-oil emulsions or emulsions with the aqueous phase as dispersed Phase ahead. To clear the pins of the invention and clearly differentiate from the state of the art, serves as fast and reliable test, as general common in the study of emulsions, the measurement of electrical resistance. An oil-in-water system has a higher because of the continuous water phase electrical conductivity and accordingly a lower one electrical resistance as a water-in-oil system. In a further particularly preferred embodiment are the stick compositions of the invention characterized by a maximum electrical resistance of 300 kOhm. Preferably, an electrical resistance of maximum 100 kΩ, more preferably of a maximum of 80 kΩ. The resistor comes with a multimeter Voltcraft Model VC820 with automatic measuring range switching (0-400 Ω / 40M Ω (± 1%) + 2dgt)) and two micro-tipped probes 1.0 mm made of stainless steel measured. The electrode distance is fixed with a millimeter gauge. The measurement is carried out at room temperature (22 ° C). For this purpose, the microtip electrodes are parallel at a distance of 27.0 mm fixed on the millimeter gauge and with the ohmmeter connected. The measurement of the electrical resistance takes place directly on the watery pens. This is usually the arched surface of the pins with a knife so far removed that results in a flat cut surface. Immediately thereafter, the measuring electrodes become approximately 5 mm vertically plugged into the pin mass. The measured value of the electrical resistance is read after 30 seconds. The cleaning of the measuring electrodes done with an alcohol-soaked cellulose cloth. Among the mentioned measuring conditions, tap water has an electrical Resistance of 250 kΩ, a 20 wt .-% aqueous Aluminum chlorohydrate solution 3 kΩ and demineralized Water 1.7 MΩ on.

product stabilization

Especially preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized by being for product stabilization contain at least one radical scavenging substance, especially preferably a substance with the INCI name Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate, the z. B. under the trade name Tinogard Q available from Ciba is. Tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate is preferred in Amounts of 0.01-0.1, more preferably 0.025-0.05 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the inventive Composition, included.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic sticks according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one UV filter. The UV filters are preferably selected from benzotriazole derivatives, in particular 2- (5-chloro-2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -6- (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-methyl-phenol (INCI name: Bumetrizole, available, for example, under the trade name Tinogard AS from Ciba), 2,2'-methylenebis (6- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl ) Phenol) [Tinosorb M (Ciba)], 2,2'-methyl-bis- [6 (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- (methyl) phenol] (MIXXIM BB / 200 from Fairmount Chemical) , 2- (2'-Hydroxy-3 ', 5'-di-t-amylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No .: 025973-551), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-octylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 003147-75-9), 2- (2'-hydroxy-5'-methylphenyl) benzotriazole (CAS No. 2440-22-4), 2- (2H-benzotriazol-2-yl) -4- Methyl 6- [2-methyl-3- [1,3,3,3-tetramethyl-1 - ((trimethylsilyl) oxy] disiloxanyl) propyl] phenol (CAS No .: 155633-54-8) with the INCI name Drometrizole Trisiloxanes, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine (INCI: Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Tria zin or Aniso Triazine, available as Tinosorb S from CIBA ^®), 2,4-bis - {[4- (3-sulfonato) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] phenyl} -6- (4 -methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine sodium salt, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4- (2-methoxyethylcarboxyl) -phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (3- (2-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy-propyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- [4 - (ethylcarboxyl) phenylamino] -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-ethylhexyloxy) -2-hydro xy] -phenyl} -6- (1-methylpyrrol-2-yl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4-tris (trimethylsiloxy-silylpropyloxy) -2-hydroxy] - phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (2-methyl-propenyloxy) -2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) 1,2,3,5-triazine, 2,4-bis - {[4- (1 ', 1', 1 ', 3', 5 ', 5', 5'-heptamethylsiloxy-2-methyl-propyloxy) - 2-hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxyphenyl) -1,3,5-triazine and mixtures of the said components. Furthermore, the addition of water-soluble UV filters is preferred. Preferred water-soluble UV filters are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid, phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid and their alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, Alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts, in particular the sulfonic acid itself with the INCI name Phenylbenzimidazole Sulfonic Acid (CAS No. 27503-81-7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Eusolex 232 from Merck or Neo Heliopan Hydro from Symrise , and the phenylene-1,4-bis (2-benzimidazyl) -3,3'-5,5'-tetrasulfonic acid bis-sodium salt with the INCI name Disodium Phenyl Dibenzimidazole Tetrasulfonate (CAS No .: 180898-37 -7), which is available, for example, under the trade name Neo Heliopan AP Symrise, sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts and sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers such. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention Pins are characterized by being for product stabilization the radical scavenger tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate and contain the UV filter Bumetrizole. Bumetrizole is preferred in amounts of 0.01-0.1, particularly preferably 0.025-0.05% by weight, based on the total weight of the invention Composition, included.

Further particularly preferred cosmetic according to the invention Pins are characterized by being for product stabilization contain at least one complex-forming substance. As a complexing substance particularly preferred is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and their sodium salts, as for example under the trade name Trilon B available from BASF, further nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and their sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and their salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The least a complexing substance is preferred in a total amount from 0.01-0.5 wt%, more preferably 0.08-0.2 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the inventive Composition, included.

Further extraordinarily preferred invention Cosmetic pens are characterized by having at least a free radical scavenger substance and at least one substance, selected from UV filters and complexing substances, contain.

Further extraordinarily preferred invention Cosmetic pens are characterized by having at least a scavenger substance, at least one UV filter and at least one complexing substance.

Further extraordinarily preferred invention cosmetic sticks are characterized in that they citrate tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol), Bumetrizole and ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid, the latter optionally as the sodium salt.

preservatives

The usual preservatives may also be added to the compositions of the invention to prevent spoilage of the product by microbial growth. Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, so some substances belong to both groups. Benzoic acid and its derivatives (for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), propionic acid and derivatives thereof (for example ammonium, sodium and potassium) are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics. , Potassium and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and its derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl). , Butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and potassiumparaben, sodium and potassium methylparaben, potassiumbutylparaben, sodium and potassiumpropylparaben), alcohols and their salts (e.g. Ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenol, potassium phenolate, phenoxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (eg, chlorhexidine diacetate, digluconate, and dihydro chloride), hydantoin and its derivatives (e.g. DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM-hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives (eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and its derivatives (eg ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and its derivatives (eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (eg, methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15), carbamates (e.g., iodopropynyl butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydroacetic acid, 2-bromo-2- nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropylcresol, methyldibromoglutaronitrile, polyaminopropyl biguanide, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, sodium phenolsulphonate, triclocarban, triclosan, zinc pyrithione, and various peptide antibiotics (eg, nisin).

According to the invention preferred Preservatives are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben as well as iodopropynyl butyl carbamate.

The Amount of preservatives in the preferred inventive Compositions is 0.001-10% by weight, preferably 0.01-5 wt .-% and in particular 0.1-3 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for producing a cosmetic stick according to a of claims 1-25, wherein the wax and oil components together with the oil-in-water and water-in-oil emulsifier (s) heated to 90-95 ° C and melted, then the water also heated to 90-95 ° C with the water-soluble active substances and ingredients under vigorous stirring is added, if necessary other ingredients are mixed, the mixture except one suitable filling temperature cooled, in suitable Dispenser forms filled and by static cooling (without further stirring) is solidified to room temperature.

The following examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto. TABLE 2 Inventive stick compositions (all amounts in% by weight) INCI No. A Cutina AGS GLYCOL DISTEARATE 2.4 Cutina FS45 PALMITIC ACID, STEARIC ACID 2.75 Eumulgin B2 CETEARETH-20 0.75 Eumulgin B3 CETEARETH-30 0.75 Ceraphyl 230 DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE 5.7 Novata AB Cocoglycerides 4 Cutina CP CETYL PALMITATE 5 Cutina HR HYDROGENATED CASTOR OIL 3.5 Kester wax K62 CETEARYL BEHENATE 4.5 ALUMINUM CHLOROHYDRATE 20 talc TALC 10 PEG-150 distearate 0.05 Perfume PERFUME 1.1 Tinogard Q TRIS (TETRAMETHYLHYDROXYPYRIDINOL) CITRATE 0.05 isopropyl alcohol 0.3 1,2-propanediol PROPYLENE GLYCOL 10 Water VE (demineralised) AQUA (WATER) ad 100.00 Solubility parameter oil [(cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 ] 8.46 solubility 8.24 W / O emulsifier [(cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 ] difference 0.22 Solubility parameter [(cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 ] 1 2 3 4 5 11 Cutina AGS 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 2.40 Cutina FS45 2.75 3.50 3.50 3.50 3.50 2.75 Eumulgin B1 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 0.00 Eumulgin B2 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Eumulgin B3 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 0.75 Ceraphyl 230 (ISP) 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 6.00 Novata AB 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Cutina CP 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cutina HR 3.50 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 4.00 Kester wax K62 4.50 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 4.50 Talc Pharma G 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Isolan GPS 1.00 Abil EM 90 1.00 Dehymuls LE 1.00 0.50 Rewoderm LIS 80 Antil 141 L Kessco PEG 6000 DS 0.05 Aluminum hydroxychlorides 50% by weight in water 40,00 40,00 40,00 40,00 40,00 40,00 Tinogard Q 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 1,2-propanediols 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 10.00 Water demin. 9.20 6.45 6.45 6.45 6.95 8.65 Perfume 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 1.10 total 100 100 100 100 100 100 6 7 9 Cutina AGS 2.40 2.40 2.40 Cutina FS45 3.50 3.50 3.50 Eumulgin B1 0.00 0.00 0.00 Eumulgin B2 0.75 0.75 0.75 Eumulgin B3 0.75 0.75 0.75 Ceraphyl 230 (ISP) 6.00 6.00 6.00 Novata AB 4.00 4.00 4.00 Cutina CP 5.00 5.00 5.00 Cutina HR 4.00 4.00 4.00 Kester wax K62 5.00 5.00 5.00 Talc Pharma G 10.00 10.00 10.00 Thickening agent PEG-150 distearate PEG-150 distearate PEG-150 distearate Isolan GPS Abil EM 90 Dehymuls LE Rewoderm LIS 80 Antil 141 L Kessco PEG 6000 DS 1.00 0.20 0.05 Aluminum hydroxychlorides 50% by weight in water 40,00 40,00 40,00 Tinogard Q 0.05 0.05 0.05 1,2-propanediols 10.00 10.00 10.00 Water demin. 6.45 7.25 7.40 Perfume 1.10 1.10 1.10 total 100 100 100 Pen strength not optimal List of raw materials used component INCI Supplier / Manufacturer Ceraphyl 230 Diisopropyl Adipate ISP Cetiol ^® SB 45 Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) Cognis Cutina ^® AGS Glycol distearate Cognis Cutina ^® CP Cetyl palmitate Cognis Cutina ^® FS45 Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid Cognis Cutina ^® HR Hydrogenated Castor Oil Cognis Cutina ^® MD Glyceryl stearate Cognis Eumulgin ^® B2 Ceteareth-20 (HLB = 15.4) Cognis Eumulgin ^® B3 Ceteareth-30 (HLB = 17.0) Cognis Kester wax K 62 Cetearyl behenate Koster Keunen Locron L. Aluminum Chlorohydrate (50% by weight), Water Clariant Novata ^® AB Cocoglycerides Cognis Sensiva ^® SC 50 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin Schülke & Mayr Tinogard Q Aqua (Water, 70% by weight), Alcohol (ethanol, 20% by weight), tris (tetramethylhydroxypiperidinol) citrate (10% by weight) Ciba Thickening agent Isolan GPS POLYGLYCERYL-4 DIISOSTEARATE / POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE / SEBACATE Abil EM 90 CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE Dehymuls LE PEG-30 DIPOLYHYDROXYSTEARATE Rewoderm LIS 80 PEG-200 HYDROGENATED GLYCERYL PALMITATE, PEG-7 GLYCERYL COCOATE Antil 141 L PROPYLENE GLYCOL, PEG-55 PROPYLENE GLYCOL OLEATE Kessco PEG 6000 DS PEG-150 DISTEARATE Tinogard Q TRIS (TETRAMETHYLHYDROXYPYRIDINOL) CITRATE

QUOTES INCLUDE IN THE DESCRIPTION

This list The documents listed by the applicant have been automated generated and is solely for better information recorded by the reader. The list is not part of the German Patent or utility model application. The DPMA takes over no liability for any errors or omissions.

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• "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702 [0200]

Claims (28)

Cosmetic stick composition in the form of an oil-in-water dispersion / emulsion, which is not a microemulsion containing a) at least one wax component with a melting point> 50 ° C, which is not attributable to the components b) or c), b) at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 7 within an oil-in-water emulsifier mixture having an average HLB value in the range of 11-17, c) at least one nonionic water-in-oil Emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, which can form liquid-crystalline structures with water alone or with water in the presence of a hydrophilic emulsifier, as consistency regulator and / or water binder, d) at least one liquid which is liquid under normal conditions , which is not a perfume component and no essential oil, wherein the (average) solubility parameter of the total of the oils contained by a maximum of -1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 and a maximum of +1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0 , 5} e) at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units, f) from 6 to 75% by weight of water, based on the total composition, g) at least one crosslinker substance, h) a total content of nonionic and ionic emulsifiers and / or surfactants with an HLB value of more than 8% not more than 20% by weight, based on the total stick composition, i) of at least one cosmetic or dermatological active ingredient selected from antiperspirant, deodorant, antimicrobial, hair growth regulating, moisturizing, anti-aging, anti-inflammatory, skin soothing, epithelializing, keratolytic, lipolytic, circulation enhancing, hyperemic, self-tanning, skin lightening, sebum-regulating, coloring, coloring, matting or lustering agents, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E and H, and UV filter substances. A stick composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the crosslinker substance is selected from - polyethylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, Aryl or alkenyl radicals and n has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250 , 275, 300, 350, represent, - etherified fatty acid ethoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -R ', where R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275 , 300, 350, represent esterified fatty acid ethoxylates d the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', wherein R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350, - Polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula RO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -R ', wherein R and R' independently of one another branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals and n an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350 represent esterified Fatty acid propoxylates of the general formula R-COO - (- CH ₂ -CH (CH ₃ ) -O-) _n -C (O) -R ', where R and R' are independently branched or unbranched alkyl, Ar yl or alkenyl radicals and n has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250 , 275, 300, 350, - Polypropylene glycol ethers of the general formula ROX _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently of one another represent branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical, and each represents either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently represent numbers whose sum has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100 , 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250, 275, 300, 350; - etherified Fettsäurepropoxylaten of the general formula R-COO-X _n -Y _m -R ', where R and R' independently, are branched or unbranched alkyl, aryl or alkenyl radicals, where X and Y are not identical and in each case either an oxyethylene group or an oxypropylene group and n and m independently each represent numbers whose sum has an average number of ethylene oxide units per molecule of from 5 to 500, preferably 10-400, more preferably 20-350, most preferably 50, 55, 80, 100, 120, 150, 175, 190, 200, 250 , 275, 300, 350, is; - dendrimers. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one crosslinker substance in a total amount of 0.01-2.0 Wt .-%, preferably 0.02-1.0 wt .-%, more preferably 0.03-0.5 wt%, and highly preferred 0.05-0.2 wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition according to the invention. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component a) is selected from esters of a saturated monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid, in particular cetyl behenate, stearyl behenate and C ₂₀ - C ₄₀ alkyl stearate, glycerol triesters of saturated linear C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, beeswax, saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax component a) in total in amounts of 3-15% by weight, preferably 5-12% by weight, based on the total composition, is included. Stick composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the ester (s) of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ alkanol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ monocarboxylic acid in amounts of 2-10 wt .-%, preferably 2-6 Wt .-%, based on the total composition, is / are included. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier b) with an HLB value of more than 7 is selected from - ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 mol of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ carboxylic acids with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, with an average of 20-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of ethoxylated sorbitan monoesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated can, - silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, - alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogues, - ethoxylated sterols, - partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten and with 1-4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C Esterified ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of more than 7, - and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil-in-water emulsifier b) in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-4 wt .-%, based on the Total composition is included. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier c) is selected from linear, saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -alkanols, -ethyleneglycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, - glycerol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, - propylene glycol mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, - sorbitan mono-, di- and -triesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, - pentaerythritylmono-, -di-, - tri- and tetraesters of linear, saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, - methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear, saturated and unge saturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, sterols, Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, 0, - glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms, - partial esters of polyglycerols with n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, esterified linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of less than or equal to 7, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-in-oil emulsifier c) in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8% by weight, and especially preferably 1-4 wt .-%, based on the total weight of Composition, is included. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil d) which is liquid under normal conditions is selected from: - benzoic acid esters of linear or branched C _8-22 -alkanols, - branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, - triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids, - dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ alkanols, - esters of branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated Fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms which may be hydroxylated, addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of _monohydric or polyhydric C _8-22 alkanols, addition products of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units on or polyvalent C _3-22 alkanols, C ₈ -C ₂₂ -fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ -hydroxycarboxylic acids, - symmetrical, unsymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, - the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear , branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyfunctional linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols, and mixtures of the abovementioned substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the under normal conditions liquid oil d) in one Total amount of 3-20 wt .-%, preferably 5-14 wt .-%, more preferably 6-12% by weight, based in each case on the total weight of the composition, is included. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oils d) which are liquid under normal conditions contain a maximum of 20% by weight of oil / s, based on the total weight of oils which are liquid under normal conditions, whose solubility parameters are more than -0.4 resp -0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^0.5 or more than +0.7 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0 , 5} from the (mean) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / water-in-oil Oil emulsifiers c) deviates. Stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that no oils which are liquid under normal conditions are present whose solubility parameter is more than ± 1.0 (cal / cm ³ ) ^{0.5 of} the (average) solubility parameter of the water-in-oil emulsifier / the water-in-oil emulsifiers c) deviates. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble polyvalent C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol e) having 2-6 hydroxyl groups is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,2-hexanediol and 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1 , 2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Stick composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol having 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or the water-soluble polyethylene glycol having 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-25% by weight , preferably 8-18 wt .-%, based on the total composition, is included. Stick composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that further comprises at least one wax component having a melting point in the range of 25 - <50 ° C, selected from coco fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea butter) and esters of saturated monohydric C ₈ -C ₁₈ alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures of these substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that further at least one solid, water-insoluble particulate Filler is included. A stick composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the solid, water-insoluble particulate filler selected is from optionally modified starches and starch derivatives, if desired pregelatinized, silica, Silicas, spherical polyalkylsesquisiloxane particles, Silica gels, talc, kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, boron nitride, Lactoglobulin derivatives, glass powders, polymer powders and mixtures the aforementioned substances. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the solid, water-insoluble, particulate filler in a total amount of 0.01 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 5-20 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 8-15 wt .-%, each based on the overall composition, is included. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that 10 to 60 wt .-% water, preferably 20 to 50 wt .-%, particularly preferably 25-45 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, are included. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that further at least one fragrance component is included. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized by a Penetration force in the range of 150-800 grams force (g-force), 200-750 gram force (g-force), more preferred 350-600 gram force (g-force) at one penetration depth of 5,000 mm. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized by a electrical resistance of a maximum of 300 kΩ, preferably maximum 100 kΩ and more preferably 80 kΩ maximum. Stick composition according to one the preceding claims, characterized in that the at least one cosmetic active ingredient is selected made of antiperspirant active ingredients. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for Improving the appearance of the skin, characterized that a stick composition according to any one of claims 1-24 on the skin, especially on the underarm skin or the facial skin, is applied. Cosmetic, non-therapeutic method for Antiperspirant, wherein a stick composition according to a of claims 1-25 on the skin, in particular on the armpit skin, is applied. Process for the preparation of a cosmetic pencil according to any one of claims 1-25, the wax and oil components together with the oil-in-water and the water-in-oil emulsifier (s) to 90-95 ° C heated and melted, then also at 90-95 ° C. heated water with the water-soluble active substances and ingredients is added with vigorous stirring, optionally other ingredients are mixed, the mixture except one suitable filling temperature cooled, in suitable donor forms filled and by static cooling (without further stirring) is solidified to room temperature.