DE102007022449A1 - Cosmetic or dermatological skin treating agent, useful to treat acne and/or unclean skin, comprises a carrier and a photocatalytically effective metal oxide e.g. titanium dioxide, as an active agent - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic or dermatological skin treating agent comprises a carrier, and at least a photocatalytically effective metal oxide as an active agent against acne and unclean skin. An independent claim is included for a procedure for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of the skin, comprising applying the agent on the skin, preferably face skin, which is the skin of neckline, back, acne and/or unclean skin. ACTIVITY : Antiseborrheic; Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given.

Description

The The present application relates to cosmetic and dermatological agents for the treatment of acne and blemished skin, which as an active ingredient at least contain a photocatalytically active metal oxide. Further concerns the present application is a non-therapeutic method for cosmetic treatment of acne and blemished skin under use at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide. Further The present application relates to the use of at least a photocatalytically active metal oxide as an active against Acne and / or impure skin or for the preparation of an agent for therapeutic treatment of acne. Furthermore, the present invention relates Registration of cosmetic skin treatment agents that act as an active ingredient against Acne and impure skin at least one photocatalytically active Metal oxide containing, preferably titanium dioxide, particularly preferred chemically modified titanium dioxide.

The Washing, cleansing and caring for your own body is a human thing basic need and modern industry is constantly trying to meet these needs of man in more diverse Way to live up to it. In addition to the basic functions - skin cleansing and subsequent Conditioning the skin with fats and moisturizers - should modern skincare products but also special consumer requirements suffice. Thus, the state of the art means for anti-wrinkle care with active ingredients, which are intended to slow down certain processes of skin aging, sunscreens with UV-absorbing filter substances and also means against Acne and impure skin, the keratolytic or antibacterial agents contain. These are in a variety of dosage forms made up, mostly as (possibly oil and grease-free) gel, as Cream, in stick form, as liquid or gelatinous Roll-on application, as soaked flexible substrate (anti-pimple pad), but also as powder or spray.

Versus impure skin are known in the art numerous drugs which are especially sebosuppressive, but also antimicrobial. Many of these active ingredients have a very strong degreasing effect and can do so provoke an even faster sebum production, causing the problem the impure skin further aggravated becomes.

Versus Acne is used in the prior art, especially benzoyl peroxide and retinoic acid, two highly effective substances, admittedly only as a pharmaceutical are and not negligible Have side effects; retinoic acid for example, acts teratogenic.

Chlorhexidindigluconat is also a known active ingredient against the germs of the impure Skin or against acne. Such halogenated compounds are but under the new chemicals legislation REACH subject to authorization be; an exchange of such raw materials for cosmetic products in the medium term unavoidable.

When Keratolytic agents against acne and impure skin become selected organic Acids, in particular salicylic acid as well as the alpha-hydroxy acids, especially glycolic acid, Lactic acid, Citric acid and tartaric acid, used. In the necessary higher Concentration areas can However, these substances have an unpleasant skin feel and even Cause skin irritation.

task

task The present invention was topical cosmetic or dermatological Compositions for effective yet side effect-free and as possible to provide gentle treatment of impure skin and / or acne, the on ecological safe and legally unrestricted approved active substances based.

A Another object of the present invention was the state the technique with effective alternative agents against impure Skin and / or acne for to enrich cosmetic and dermatological purposes.

State of the art

CA 2561916 A1 discloses a coating material comprising a binder and at least one particle having a size and / or surface roughness of 100 μm or less, and a photocatalytically active agent, wherein the binder is at least partially degraded by the photocatalytic action to form a microstructured, self-cleaning surface and also by the photocatalytically active agent also organic contaminants on the coating material are degraded. The photocatalytically active agent used therein and its preparation are described in DE 197 57 496 A1 disclosed.

US 20050227854 A1 discloses in Examples 1-7 the preparation of photocatalytically active, carbon-modified titanium dioxide which is particularly preferred for use according to the invention as an active ingredient against blemished skin and / or acne. This document discloses the use of the photocatalytically active, carbon-modified titanium dioxide in coatings, plastics, fibers, paper, inks, and in the purification of air and water. A reference to cosmetic or dermatological applications is not apparent from this document.

Surprised it has now been found that photocatalytically active metal oxides, preferably photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, more preferably chemically modified photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, in particular carbon-modified photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, as an active ingredient against blemished skin and / or acne for cosmetic and dermatological Purposes are suitable.

Without To be bound by this theory is believed to be stimulated by light energy, for example from the sunlight, the photocatalytic effective metal oxide forms free radicals that are those microorganisms, the for the formation of acne and blemished skin are responsible, killing, and killing them prevents the formation or new formation of acne and blemished skin or diminished. It is also conceivable that the photocatalytic Effective metal oxide forms free radicals that directly contribute to chemical degradation of sebum and sebum contribute. Skin treatment agent containing at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular a chemically modified titanium dioxide, are thus both to treat acute problems with acne and blemished skin, as well as a prophylactic remedy against the formation of acne and impure Skin.

The used according to the invention photocatalytically active metal oxide can be used in all common dosage forms for cosmetic and incorporating dermatological skin treatment agents. A special Advantage of this ingredient is that it comes from the skin treatment agent put on the treated skin and always by exposure to light can be reactivated, creating a long-term effect and thus permanent protection against acne and blemished skin can.

Further is a combination of the photocatalytic used in the invention effective metal oxides with conventional antibacterial substances possible, whereby the latter can be used in a lower concentration than usually. This also makes it possible the provision of particularly well-tolerated skin treatment agents against acne and blemished skin.

moreover offer selected used according to the invention photocatalytically active metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxide, Zinc oxide, zirconia and ceria, a UV protection, which is UV-induced skin damage and counteracts the UV-induced skin aging. That's the way to go in particular, to provide skincare products that are tailor made are to the needs the increasingly larger Consumer group of people over 30 years with similar Acne and blemish problems like the youth skin has to fight on the other hand, but also already the first signs of the natural Skin aging has.

One The first subject of the present application is therefore a cosmetic or dermatological skin treatment agent containing in one cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier at least one photocatalytic effective metal oxide as an active ingredient against acne and blemished skin.

According to the invention preferred Metal oxides are selected titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, zirconium dioxide, cerium oxide, vanadium pentoxide, Niobium pentoxide, tantalum pentoxide, chromium (III) oxide, tungsten oxides, rhenium heptoxide, tin (II) oxide and stannic oxide. Particular preference is given to titanium dioxide, zinc oxide, Zirconia and ceria. extraordinarily preferred is titanium dioxide.

Under the titanium dioxides are the modifications anatase, rutile and brookite prefers. For the skin treatment compositions of the invention Titanium dioxide is particularly preferred in the anatase modification.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active Metal oxide photocatalytically active titanium dioxide comprises.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytic effective metal oxide is chemically modified.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active Metal oxide chemically modified, photocatalytically active titanium dioxide includes.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active Metal oxide with carbon modified, photocatalytically active Includes titanium dioxide.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the carbon content of the Carbon-modified photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular of the carbon-modified photocatalytic effective titanium dioxide, in the range of 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.5% by weight, extraordinarily preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the modified metal oxide.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the specific surface area of the photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular of the photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, optionally modified with carbon, according to BET is 50 to 500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g 200 to 350 m ² / g.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the particle size of the photocatalytically active Metal oxides, in particular of - optionally carbon modified - photocatalytic effective titanium dioxide, in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 200-400 nm.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active metal oxide having a carbon content in the range from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0, 3 to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the modified metal oxide, modified and further has a BET specific surface area of 50 to 500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, particularly preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g, and has a particle size in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 200-400 nm.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is titanium dioxide in the anatase modification and having a carbon content in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight. -%, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the modified metal oxide, modified and further has a specific surface area after BET of 50 to 500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, particularly preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g, and a particle size in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 200-400 nm.

An inventively particularly suitable modified titanium dioxide available under the trade name Kronos ^® vlp 7000 from Kronos commercially.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one photocatalytic effective metal oxide, especially one - optionally with carbon modified - photocatalytic effective titanium dioxide, in a total amount of 0.000001 to 10 Wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-1.0 % By weight, extraordinary preferably 0.1-0.5% by weight, is included, in each case based on the total funds.

Further preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is titanium dioxide in the anatase modification and having a carbon content in the range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight. -%, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.5 wt .-%, most preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the modified metal oxide, modified and further has a specific surface area after BET of 50 to 500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, particularly preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g, and has a particle size in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 200-400 nm and in a total amount of 0.000001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-1.0 wt .-%, most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt. -%, is contained, in each case based on the total agent according to the invention.

Another object of the present application is a method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of acne and impure skin, characterized in that a skin treatment at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide as active ingredient against acne and impure skin, in and / or followed by an exposure of the body surface to light having a wavelength in the range of 300-1200 nm, preferably 380-800, in a cosmetically or dermatologically tolerable carrier nm, on the skin, especially the facial skin, the skin of the décolleté and / or the back and / or affected by acne and / or impurities skin parts, is applied.

In further preferred according to the invention Procedure is as active against acne and blemished skin at least one of the abovementioned preferred photocatalytically active Contain metal oxides.

One Another object of the present application is the use a photocatalytically active metal oxide as an active against Acne and / or impure skin or for the preparation of an agent for therapeutic treatment of acne.

In further preferred according to the invention Uses is at least as an active ingredient against acne and blemished skin one of the abovementioned preferred photocatalytically active Contain metal oxides.

The Skin treatment agents according to the invention comprises at least one (preferably modified) photocatalytic effective metal oxide, and may advantageously be that of human Eye perceptible radiation of the visible region of the spectrum with wavelengths between 380 and 800 nm for Take advantage of the purposes of treating acne and / or blemished skin and e.g. the effect of daylight on acne and / or develop impure skin.

The light activity of the photocatalytically active metal oxide and of this metal oxide containing skin treatment agent advantageously relates on natural or artificial Light with one wavelength in the range of 300-1200 nm, preferably between 380 and 800 nm, ie light from the visible spectral range.

advantageously, even reaches the light, which through glass windows in closed living spaces invades (diffused Daylight) to the desired effect against acne and / or to reach impure skin. Even light from technical light sources (Artificial light), such as from standard incandescent bulbs (incandescent bulbs), halogen lamps, fluorescent tubes, compact fluorescent lamps (Energy-saving lamps) and light sources based on light-emitting diodes, is enough to have a good effect against acne and / or blemished skin to unfold.

For a preferred Deployment of the photocatalytic activity of the metal oxide is the presence of preferably oxygen and / or water (for example from air, ie atmospheric moisture) required. That's enough e.g. the dissolved oxygen present in water or the in the (air) moisture dissolved Oxygen or atmospheric oxygen. The exposure can also be in one Treatment bath done.

The Fabrication of the compositions according to the invention is preferably directed according to the requirements of the intended use.

Compositions according to the invention can in solid, semi-solid, liquid, disperse, emulsified, suspended or gel form. Farther can the agents according to the invention be packaged as an aerosol, that is, they are packed in a pressure vessel, from which they can be sprayed with the aid of a propellant. Furthermore, the agents according to the invention be sprayed as a propellant-free pump spray.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in the form of a hydrogel. Hydrogels are water-containing gels based on hydrophilic but water-insoluble polymers, which exist as three-dimensional networks. In water, these networks swell up to an equilibrium volume while retaining their shape. on. The network formation occurs predominantly via chemical linkage of the individual polymer chains, but is also physically possible by electrostatic, hydrophobic or dipole / dipole interactions between individual segments of the polymer chains. The choice of the monomers used for the polymer synthesis, the type of crosslinking and the crosslinking density can be used to tailor desired properties of the hydrogels. The necessary hydrophilicity of the polymers is mediated, inter alia, by hydroxyl, carboxylate, sulfonate and / or amide groups. Synthetic hydrogels are based inter alia on poly (meth) acrylic acids, poly (meth) acrylates, polyvinylpyrrolidone or polyvinyl alcohol. Preferred anionic polymeric hydrogel-forming agents which can support the action of the active ingredient used according to the invention contain carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups and as monomers, for example, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpro pansulfonsäure. The acidic groups may be wholly or partly present as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium salt. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid. Very particularly preferred anionic polymers contain 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid as the sole monomer or as a comonomer, it being possible for the sulfonic acid group to be wholly or partly in salt form. Within this embodiment, it is preferred to use copolymers of at least one anionic monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. With regard to the anionic monomers, reference is made to the substances listed above. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic esters, methacrylic acid esters, vinylpyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters. Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid groups are wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound has proven to be particularly advantageous in the context of the teaching of the invention. Also, the NS under the designations Simulgel ^® 600, Simulgel ^®, Simulgel ^® EG, Simulgel ^® EPG and Sepiplus ^® 400 as a compound with an oil such as isohexadecane, squalane or hydrogenated polyisobutene, and an emulsifier, such as polysorbate, Laureth-7 or Caprylyl / Capryl glucosides, sold sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymers (with monomers selected from acrylamide, sodium acrylate, hydroxyethyl acrylate and / or acrylic acid) have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. Further preferred are hydrogel ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate vinylpyrrolidone copolymer, in particular the commercial product Aristoflex ^® AVC from Clariant.

Further particularly preferred anionic homopolymer hydrogel formers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example the commercial products Carbopol ^®. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer contains as monomer 80-98% of an unsaturated C _3-6 carboxylic acid or its anhydride and 2-20% of acrylic acid esters of C _10-30 saturated carboxylic acids, which copolymer may be crosslinked with the aforementioned crosslinking agents , Corresponding commercial products are Pemulen ^®, and Carbopol ^® grades 954, 980, 1342 and ETD 2020 (ex Noveon or BF Goodrich).

Preferred nonionic polymeric hydrogel formers are, for example, polyvinyl alcohols which may be partially saponified, e.g. B. the commercial products Mowiol ^® and vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers and polyvinylpyrrolidones z. B. under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF) are sold.

Natural hydrogel-forming agents which are preferred according to the invention are in particular selected from, if desired, physically (thermally) and / or chemically modified cellulose derivatives, preferably hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, in particular starches and starch degradation products such as amylose and amylopectin, chemically and / or thermally modified starches, e.g. B. Hydroxypropylstärkephosphat, Dihydroxypropyldistärkephosphat, in particular the anionic starch derivatives Aluminiumstärkeoctenylsuccinat (eg the commercial products Dry Flo ^® ), Natriumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, Calciumstärkeoctenylsuccinat, furthermore chitosan and its derivatives, furthermore polysaccharides forming gums or gums, such as guar gum, xanthan gum, alginates , in particular sodium alginate, gum arabic, karaya gum, carrageenans, locust bean gum, linseed gums, shellac and agar-agar.

In Another particularly preferred embodiment is the erfindungsmäßen means in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion in front. Such oil-in-water emulsions can, also preferred, by at least one of the above Hydrogel forming stabilized.

In a further particularly preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention are in liquid form. The application can be carried out preferably with spray devices. These spraying devices contain in a container a filling of the inventive (liquid, mushy or powdery) skin treatment agent. The filling may be under the pressure of a propellant (compressed gas cans, compressed gas packages, aerosol dispensers), or it may be a mechanically operated pump sprayer. The containers have a removal device, preferably in the form of valves, which allow the removal of the contents as fog, smoke, foam, powder, paste or liquid jet. As a container for the sprayers are mainly cylindrical vessels made of metal (Aluminum, tinplate, volume preferably <1000 ml), protected or non-fragmenting glass or plastic (volume preferably <220 ml) or splintering glass or plastic (volume preferably <150 ml) in question.

Creamy, gelatinous, pastose and liquid Means can e.g. be packaged in pump or squeeze dispensers, in particular also in multi-chamber pump or squeeze dispensers.

Under the concept of fluid fall within the meaning of the invention, any solid state dispersions in Liquids. Compositions according to the invention can also present as pastes, ointments, lotions or creams. Fixed funds can for example, as loose powder, pressed powder or as a pen available.

The Packaging in a multi-chamber dispenser offers special technical Advantages. Due to the photoreactivity of the invention used photocatalytically active metal oxide are the active ingredient preferably in light-impermeable containers the storage stability to ensure the entire composition.

numerous However, cosmetic or dermatological dosage forms will be in transparent or translucent packaging in the traffic brought. Here, a multi-chamber dispenser offers the technical advantage that one of the chambers, for example, a transparent or translucent photocatalyst-free (vehicle) composition contains a transparent or translucent material, and another chamber made of an opaque, opaque material, containing the photocatalyst-containing composition, so together connected both sub-compositions simultaneously the packaging can be issued, for example, from separate openings or from a single opening. Thus, on the one hand, the storage stability of the entire composition according to the invention and on the other hand, a high activity of the photocatalyst also after a long time Storage guaranteed.

The Application can e.g. in the case of liquid agents preferably also be done with a roller applicator, as he e.g. out of the area the deodorant scooter is known. Such scooters have a stored in a ball bed Ball on which moves by movement over a surface can be. The ball takes something of the to be distributed Means up and promoted this to the surface to be treated. With such applicators Can be targeted and economical only the actual of acne and / or impurities Treat affected skin.

The Application can e.g. also be done with substrates that with a charged according to the invention preparation are. Especially preferred are wet wipes, i. for the user prefabricated, preferably individually packaged, wet wipes, such as they z. B. from the field of glass cleaning (eyeglass cleaning cloths) or from well known in the field of wet toilet paper. Such Wet wipes, which may advantageously also contain preservatives are then advantageously impregnated with a composition of the invention or advantageously, they are individually packed. she can z. B. used as a cleaning cloth or facial tissue (make-up removal) which is especially interesting for use.

preferred Substrate materials are preferably selected from porous sheet-like cloths. You can take off a fibrous or cellular flexible material, sufficient mechanical stability and at the same time Having softness for application to the skin. These towels include towels woven and unwoven synthetic and natural fibers, felt, paper or foam, such as hydrophilic polyurethane foam.

Preferably, conventional cloths of nonwoven material (nonwovens) are used here. Nonwovens are generally defined as adhesively bonded fibrous products having a mat or layered fibrous structure, or those comprising fibrous mats in which the fibers are randomly or randomly distributed. The fibers may be natural such as wool, silk, jute, hemp, cotton, flax, sisal or ramie; or synthetically, such as rayon, cellulose esters, polyvinyl derivatives, polyolefins, polyamides or polyesters. In general, any fiber diameter or titer is suitable for the present invention. The nonwoven fabrics employed herein tend not to rupture or disintegrate due to the random or random arrangement of fibers in the nonwoven material which impart excellent strength in all directions. Examples of nonwoven fabrics suitable as substrates in the present invention include, for example WO 98/18441 known. Preferred porous and flat cleaning cloths consist of one or different fiber materials, in particular of cotton, refined cotton, polyamide, polyester or mixtures of these. Preferably, the substrates in tissue form a Flä che from 10 to 5000 cm ² , preferably from 50 to 2000 cm ² , in particular from 100 to 1500 cm ² and particularly preferably from 200 to 1000 cm ² on. The gram pitch of the material is usually between 20 and 1000 g / m ² , preferably from 30 to 500 g / m ² and in particular from 50 to 150 g / m ² . Skin treatment substrates which are preferred according to the invention can be obtained by impregnation or impregnation or else by melting the agents according to the invention onto a substrate.

The agent according to the invention, preferably liquid Means, can also be multiphase, the phases may e.g. horizontally, one above the other, or vertically, so next to each other, be arranged. It may be also be a disperse system in which e.g. the solid ingredients inhomogeneous in the liquid matrix are distributed, so that such a disperse system before use shaken should be.

• a) Absorptionsmittel Diese haben vorzugsweise die Aufgabe, Wasser- und/oder öllösliche aufgelöste oder feinverteilte Substanzen aufzunehmen.
• b) Antimikrobielle Stoffe Diese können den Produkten zugesetzt werden, um ganz allgemein die Aktivitäten von Mikroorganismen, insbesondere den Mikroorganismen, die für die Bildung von Akne verantwortlich sind, zu verringern. Zu diesen Keimen zählen unter anderem verschiedene Spezies aus der Gruppe der Staphylokokken, der Gruppe der Corynebakterien, Anaerokokken und Mikrokokken, insbesondere Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum und Propionibacterium granulosum. Als keimhemmende oder antimikrobielle Wirkstoffe erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind insbesondere Organohalogenverbindungen sowie -halogenide, quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen, eine Reihe von Pflanzenextrakten und Zinkverbindungen. Hierzu zählen u. a. Triclosan, Chlorhexidin und Chlorhexidingluconat, 3,4,4'-Trichlorcarbanilid, Bromchlorophen, Dichlorophen, Chlorothymol, Chloroxylenol, Hexachlorophen, Dichloro-m-xylenol, Dequaliniumchlorid, Domiphenbromid, Ammoniumphenolsulfonat, Benzalkoniumhalogenide, Benzalkoniumcetylphosphat, Benzalkoniumsaccharinate, Benzethoniumchlorid, Cetylpyridiniumchlorid, Laurylpyridiniumchlorid, Laurylisoquinoliniumbromid, Methylbenzedoniumchlorid. Weiterhin sind Phenol, Phenoxyethanol, Dinatriumdihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenat, Natriumbicarbonat, Zinklactat, Natriumphenolsulfonat und Zinkphenolsulfonat, Ketoglutarsäure, Terpenalkohole wie z. B. Farnesol, Chlorophyllin-Kupfer- Komplexe, α-Monoalkylglycerinether mit einem verzweigten oder linearen gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₆-C₂₂-Alkylrest, besonders bevorzugt α-(2-Ethylhexyl)glycerinether, im Handel erhältlich als Sensiva^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), Carbonsäureester des Mono-, Di- und Triglycerins (z. B. Glycerinmonolaurat, Diglycerinmonocaprinat), Lantibiotika sowie Pflanzenextrakte (z. B. grüner Tee und Bestandteile des Lindenblütenöls) einsetzbar. Weitere bevorzugte Wirkstoffe gegen Akne und unreine Haut sind ausgewählt aus sogenannten präbiotisch wirksamen Komponenten, worunter erfindungsgemäß solche Komponenten zu verstehen sind, die nur oder zumindest überwiegend die geruchsbildenden Keime der Hautmikroflora hemmen, nicht aber die erwünschten, das heißt, die nicht-geruchsbildenden Keime, die zu einer gesunden Hautmikroflora gehören. Explizit sind hier die Wirkstoffe, die in den Offenlegungsschriften DE 10333245 und DE 10 2004 011 968 als präbiotisch wirksam offenbart sind, mit einbezogen; dazu gehören Nadelbaumextrakte, insbesondere aus der Gruppe der Pinaceae, und Pflanzenextrakte aus der Gruppe der Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae und Saxifragaceae, insbesondere Extrakte aus Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album oder Ribes nigrum sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen.
• c) Antiperspirantien Diese werden vorzugsweise in Antitranspirantien eingesetzt und verringern die Schweißabgabe. Schweißhemmende Wirkstoffe haben eine porenadstringierende Wirkung und werden daher häufig auch in Hautbehandlungsmitteln zur Sebumsuppression eingesetzt. Die zur Sebumsuppression verwendeten Einsatzmengen sind dabei üblicherweise geringer als die zur Schweißhemmung verwendeten Mengen und liegen im Bereich von 0,1-10 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2-3 Gew.-%. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Mittel enthalten – zur Unterstützung der Gesamtleistung des Produktes – mindestens einen adstringierenden Antitranspirant-Wirkstoff, ausgewählt aus den wasserlöslichen adstringierenden anorganischen und organischen Salzen des Aluminiums, Zirkoniums und Zinks bzw. beliebigen Mischungen dieser Salze, enthalten ist. Besonders bevorzugte Antitranspirant-Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus den Aluminiumchlorhydraten, insbesondere den Aluminiumchlorhydraten mit der allgemeinen Formel [Al₂(OH)₅Cl·2-3 H₂O]_n, die in nicht-aktivierter oder in aktivierter (depolymerisierter) Form vorliegen können, weiterhin Aluminiumsesquichlorhydrat, Aluminiumchiorhydrex-Propylenglykol (PG) oder -Polyethylenglykol (PEG), Aluminiumsesquichlorhydrex-PG oder -PEG, Aluminium-PG-dichlorhydrex oder Aluminium-PEG-dichlorhydrex, Aluminiumhydroxid, weiterhin ausgewählt aus den Aluminiumzirconiumchlorhydraten, wie Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrat, den Aluminium-Zirkonium-Chlorohydrat-Glycin-Komplexen wie Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrexglycin, Kaliumaluminiumsulfat (KAl(SO₄)₂·12 H₂O, Alaun), Aluminiumundecylenoylkollagenaminosäure, Natriumaluminiumlactat + Aluminiumsulfat, Natriumaluminiumchlorhydroxylactat, Aluminiumbromhydrat, Aluminiumchlorid, den Komplexen von Zink- und Natriumsalzen, den Komplexe von Lanthan und Cer, den Aluminiumsalzen von Lipoaminosäuren, Aluminiumsulfat, Aluminiumlactat, Aluminiumchlorhydroxyallantoinat, Natrium-Aluminium-Chlorhydroxylactat, Zinkchlorid, Zinksulfocarbolat, Zinksulfat und Zirkoniumchlorohydrat. Erfindungsgemäß wird unter Wasserlöslichkeit eine Löslichkeit von wenigstens 5 Gew.-% bei 20°C verstanden, das heißt, dass Mengen von wenigstens 5 g des Antitranspirant-Wirkstoffes in 95 g Wasser bei 20°C löslich sind. Die Antitranspirant-Wirkstoffe können als wässrige Lösung eingesetzt werden. In bevorzugten wasserfreien erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln ist bevorzugt mindestens ein aktiviertes Aluminiumchlorhydrat enthalten, bevorzugt ein Rohstoff aus der Serie REACH^® von Reheis.
• d) Antischaummittel Diese können zugesetzt werden, z.B. um Schaum während der Herstellung zu beseitigen oder um die Neigung von Fertigprodukten zur überschießenden Schaumbildung zu verringern.
• e) Bindemittel Sie gewährleisten z.B. den Zusammenhalt pulver- und puderhaltiger kosmetischer Produkte.
• f) Stoffe biologischen Ursprungs Das sind z.B. bestimmte Pflanzeninhaltsstoffe, z.B. Grüner-Tee-Extrakt. Sie sollen einem Produkt bestimmte, gewünschte Eigenschaften verleihen, die mit dem entsprechenden biologischen Materialen in Zusammenhang stehen, oder aber bereits bestehende Eigenschaften weiter verbessern oder unerwünschte Eigenschaften unterdrücken bzw. sie soweit wie möglich verringern.
• g) Bleichmittel Diese können z.B. dazu dienen, den Farbton des Haares oder der Haut aufzuhellen.
• h) Chelatbildner Diese werden z.B. kosmetischen Mitteln zugesetzt, damit sie Komplexe mit Metallionen bilden, um so beispielsweise die Lagerstabilität der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel zu verbessern. Als komplexbildende Substanz besonders bevorzugt ist Ethylendiamintetraessigsäure (EDTA) und ihre Natriumsalze, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Handelsnamen Trilon B von der Firma BASF erhältlich ist, weiterhin Nitrilotriessigsäure (NTA) und ihre Natriumsalze, β-Alanindiessigsäure und ihre Salze und Phosphonsäuren und deren Salze. Die mindestens eine komplexbildende Substanz ist bevorzugt in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01-0,5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,08-0,2 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• i) Deodorant-Wirkstoffe, in einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform können die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel mindestens einen Deodorant-Wirkstoff enthalten. Dieser kann bevorzugt aus den bereits genannten antimikrobiellen Wirkstoffen ausgewählt sein. Weiterhin kann es bevorzugt sein, einen Wirkstoff einzusetzen, der die für die Schweißzersetzung verantwortlichen Enzyme, insbesondere die Arylsulfatase, β-Glucuronidase, Aminoacylase, Esterasen, Lipasen und/oder Lipoxigenase, hemmt, z. B. Trialkylcitronensäureester, insbesondere Triethylcitrat, oder Zinkglycinat. Weitere Inhibitorsubstanzen der für die Schweißzersetzung verantwortlichen Enzyme und Keime, sind offenbart in WO 03/039505 A2 , WO 01/99376 A2 , EP 1430879 A2 , EP 1428520 A2 , EP 1738803 A1 , EP 1576946 A1 und DE 102 16 368 A1 . Weitere eindungsgemäß bevorzugte Deodorant-Wirkstoffe sind Geruchsabsorber und desodorierend wirkende Ionenaustauscher. Silicate dienen als Geruchsabsorber, die auch gleichzeitig die rheologischen Eigenschaften der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung vorteilhaft unterstützen. Zu den erfindungsgemäß besonders vorteilhaften Silicaten zählen vor allem Schichtsilicate und unter diesen insbesondere Montmorillonit, Kaolinit, Ilit, Beidellit, Nontronit, Saponit, Hectorit, Bentonit, Smectit und Talkum. Weitere vorteilhafte Geruchsabsorber sind beispielsweise Zeolithe, Zinkricinoleat, Cyclodex trine, bestimmte Metalloxide, wie z. B. Aluminiumoxid, sowie Chlorophyll. Sie werden bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,1-10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,5-7 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 1-5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• j) Emollientien Diese haben die Aufgabe, die Haut geschmeidig zu machen und zu glätten. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen, die als Emulsion, Suspension, Spray oder Stift vorliegen, enthalten als Emollient mindestens ein bei 20°C flüssiges Öl, das keine Duftstoffkomponente und kein etherisches Öl darstellt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Öle sind ausgewählt aus verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkoholen mit 6-30 Kohlenstoffatomen. Diese Alkohole werden häufig auch als Guerbet-Alkohole bezeichnet, da sie nach der Guerbet-Reaktion erhältlich sind. Bevorzugte Alkoholöle sind Hexyldecanol (Eutanol^® G 16, Guerbitol^® T 16), Octyldodecanol (Eutanol^® G, Guerbitol^® 20), 2-Ethylhexylalkohol und die Handelsprodukte Guerbitol^® 18, Isofol^® 12, Isofol^® 16, Isofol^® 24, Isofol^® 36, Isocarb^® 12, Isocarb^® 16 oder Isocarb^® 24. Weitere bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind Mischungen aus Guerbetalkoholen und Guerbetalkoholestern, z.B. das Handelsprodukt Cetiol^® PGL (Hexyldecanol und Hexyldecyllaurat. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Emollient-Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Triglyceriden von linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten oder ungesättigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C_8-30-Fettsäuren. Besonders geeignet kann die Verwendung natürlicher Öle, z.B. Sojaöl, Baumwollsaatöl, Sonnenblumenöl, Palmöl, Palmkernöl, Leinöl, Mandelöl, Rizinusöl, Maisöl, Olivenöl, Rapsöl, Sesamöl, Distelöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls und dergleichen sein. Geeignet sind aber auch synthetische Triglyceridöle, insbesondere Capric/Caprylic Triglycerides, z. B. die Handelsprodukte Myritol^® 318, Myritol^® 331 (Cognis) oder Miglyol^® 812 (Hüls) mit unverzweigten Fettsäureresten sowie Glyceryltriisostearin und die Handelsprodukte Estol^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) oder Myritol^® GTEH (Cognis) mit verzweigten Fettsäureresten. Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Dicarbonsäureestern von linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₁₀-Alkanolen, insbesondere Diisopropyladipat, Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)adipat, Dioctyladipat, Diethyl-/Di-n-butyl/Dioctylsebacat, Diisopropylsebacat, Dioctylmalat, Dioctylmaleat, Dicaprylylmaleat, Diisooctylsuccinat, Di-2-ethylhexylsuccinat und Di-(2-hexyldecyl)-succinat. Weitere erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Öle sind ausgewählt aus den Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 5 Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C_8-22-Alkanole wie Octanol, Decanol, Decandiol, Laurylalkohol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-2-Myristylether und PPG-3-Myristylether (Witconol^® APM). Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus den Estern der linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettalkohole mit 2-30 Kohlenstoffatomen mit linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 2-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Dazu zählen Hexyldecylstearat (Eutanol^® G 16 S), Hexyldecyllaurat, Isodecylneopentanoat, Isononylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexylpalmitat (Cegesoft^® C 24) und 2-Ethylhexylstearat (Cetiol^® 868). Ebenfalls bedingt geeignet sind Isopropylmyristat, Isopropylpalmitat, Isopropylstearat, Isopropylisostearat, Isopropyloleat, Isooctylstearat, Isononylstearat, Isocetylstearat, Isononylisononanoat, Isotridecylisononanoat, Cetearylisononanoat, 2-Ethylhexyllaurat, 2-Ethylhexylisostearat, 2-Ethylhexylcocoat, 2-Octyldodecylpalmitat, Butyloctansäure-2-butyloctanoat, Diisotridecylacetat, n-Butylstearat, n-Hexyllaurat, n-Decyloleat, Oleyloleat, Oleylerucat, Erucyloleat, Erucylerucat, Ethylenglycoldioleat und -dipalmitat. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus den Anlagerungsprodukten von mindestens 6 Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid-Einheiten an ein- oder mehrwertige C_3-22-Alkanole wie Butanol, Butandiol, Myristylalkohol und Stearylalkohol, z. B. PPG-14-Butylether (Ucon Fluid^® AP), PPG-9-Butylether (Breox^® 625), PPG-10-Butandiol (Macol^® 57) und PPG-15-Stearylether (Arlamol^® E). Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus den C₈-C₂₂-Fettalkoholestern einwertiger oder mehrwertiger C₂-C₇-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, insbesondere die Ester der Glycolsäure, Milchsäure, Apfelsäure, Weinsäure, Citronensäure und Salicylsäure. Solche Ester auf Basis von linearen C_14/15-Alkanolen, z. B. C₁₂-C₁₅-Alkyllactat, und von in 2-Position verzweigten C_12/13-Alkanolen sind unter dem Warenzeichen Cosmacol^® von der Firma Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, zu beziehen, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Cosmacol^® ESI, Cosmacol^® EMI und Cosmacol^® ETI. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus den symmetrischen, unsymmetrischen oder cyclischen Estern der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, z. B. Glycerincarbonat, Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC) oder die Ester der DE 197 56 454 A1 . Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus den Estern von Dimeren ungesättigter C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuren (Dimerfettsäuren) mit einwertigen linearen, verzweigten oder cyclischen C₂-C₁₈-Alkanolen oder mit mehrwertigen linearen oder verzweigten C₂-C₆-Alkanolen. Es kann erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugt sein, Mischungen der vorgenannten Öle einzusetzen. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Ölkomponenten sind ausgewählt aus Siliconölen und Kohlenwasserstoffölen. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Siliconöle sind ausgewählt aus Dialkyl- und Alkylarylsiloxanen, wie beispielsweise Cyclopentasiloxan, Cyclohexasiloxan, Dimethylpolysiloxan und Methylphenylpolysiloxan, aber auch Hexamethyldisiloxan, Octamethyltrisiloxan und Decamethyltetrasiloxan zählen. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Siliconöle sind ausgewählt aus flüchtigen Siliconölen, die cyclisch sein können, wie z. B. Octamethylcyclotetrasiloxan, Decamethylcyclopentasiloxan und Dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxan sowie Mischungen hiervon, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 244, 245, 344 und 345 von Dow Corning enthalten sind, oder linear, z. B. Hexamethyldisiloxan (L₂), Octamethyltrisiloxan (L₃), Decamethyltetrasiloxan (L₄), beliebige Zweier- und Dreiermischungen aus L₂, L₃ und/oder L₄, wie sie z. B. in den Handelsprodukten DC 2-1184, Dow Corning^® 200 (0,65 cSt) und Dow Corning^® 200 (1,5 cSt) von Dow Corning enthalten sind. Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Siliconöle sind ausgewählt aus nichtflüchtigen höhermolekularen linearen Dimethylpolysiloxanen, im Handel erhältlich z. B. unter der Bezeichnung Dow Corning^® 190, Dow Corning^® 200 Fluid mit Viskositäten im Bereich von 5-100 cSt, bevorzugt 5-50 cSt oder auch 5-10 cSt, und Baysilon^® 350 M. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte natürliche und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sind ausgewählt aus Paraffinölen, Isohexadecan, Isoeicosan, (ggf. hydrierten) Polyisobutenen und Polydecenen, die beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Emery^® 3004, 3006, 3010 oder unter der Bezeichnung Ethylflo^® von Albemarle oder Nexbase^® 2004G von Nestle erhältlich sind, sowie 1,3-Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^®S). Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das/die bei 20°C flüssige/n Öl/e in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1-80 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 2-20 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 3-15 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist/sind. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung weist ein Anteil der Ölkomponenten von mindestens 80 Gew.-% einen Brechungsindex n_D von 1,39-1,51 auf. Besonders bevorzugt ist es, wenn 5-40-50 Gew.-%, außerordentlich bevorzugt 10-12-25-30 Gew.-% der Ölkomponenten einen Brechungsindex n_D von 1,43-1,51, bevorzugt 1,44-1,49, besonders bevorzugt 1,45-1,47-1,485, bei 20°C (gemessen bei λ = 589 nm) aufweisen. Neben den Ölen, das heißt, den Substanzen, die unter Normalbedingungen flüssig vorliegen, können auch bei Normalbedingungen fest vorliegende Lipid- oder Wachskomponenten als Emollient verwendet werden. Besonders bevorzugte Lipid- oder Wachskomponenten sind ausgewählt aus Kokosfettsäureglycerinmono-, -di- und -triestern, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea Butter) und Estern von gesättigten, einwertigen C₈-C_t8-Alkoholen mit gesättigten C₁₂-C₁₈-Monocarbonsäuren sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen, enthalten ist. Diese niedriger schmelzenden Lipid- oder Wachskomponenten ermöglichen eine Konsistenzoptimierung des Produktes und eine Minimierung der sichtbaren Rückstände auf der Haut. Besonders bevorzugt sind Handelsprodukte mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Cocoglycerides, insbesondere die Handelsprodukte Novata^® (ex Cognis), besonders bevorzugt Novata^® AB, ein Gemisch aus C₁₂-C₁₈-Mono-, Di- und Triglyceriden, das im Bereich von 30-32°C schmilzt, sowie die Produkte der Softisan-Reihe (Sasol Germany GmbH) mit der INCI-Bezeichnung Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, insbesondere Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Weitere bevorzugte Ester von gesättigten, einwertigen C₁₂-C₁₈-Alkoholen mit gesättigten C₁₂-C₁₈-Monocarbonsäuren sind Stearyllaurat, Cetearylstearat (z. B. Crodamol^® CSS), Cetylpalmitat (z. B. Cutina^® CP) und Myristylmyristat (z. B. Cetiol^® MM). Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Emiollients sind weiterhin natürliche pflanzliche Wachse, z. B. Candelillawachs, Carnaubawachs, Japanwachs, Zuckerrohrwachs, Ouricourywachs, Korkwachs, Sonnenblumenwachs, Fruchtwachse wie Orangenwachse, Zitronenwachse, Grapefruitwachs, und tierische Wachse, z. B. Bienenwachs, Schellackwachs und Walrat. Im Sinne der Erfindung kann es besonders bevorzugt sein, hydrierte oder gehärtete Wachse einzusetzen. Als Wachskomponente sind auch chemisch modifizierte Wachse, insbesondere die Hartwachse, wie z. B. Montanesterwachse, hydrierte Jojobawachse und Sasolwachse, einsetzbar. Zu den synthetischen Wachsen, die ebenfalls erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind, zählen beispielsweise Polyalkylenwachse und Polyethylenglycolwachse, C₂₀-C₄₀-Dialkylester von Dimersäuren, C_30-50-Alkylbienenwachs sowie Alkyl- und Alkylarylester von Dimerfettsäuren. Eine besonders bevorzugte Wachskomponente ist ausgewählt aus mindestens einem Ester aus einem gesättigten, einwertigen C₁₆-C₆₀-Alkohol und einer gesättigten C₈-C₃₆-Monocarbonsäure. Erfindungsgemäß zählen hierzu auch Lactide, die cyclischen Doppelester von α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren der entsprechenden Kettenlänge. Ester aus Fettsäuren und langkettigen Alkoholen haben sich für die erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung als besonders vorteilhaft erwiesen, weil sie den erfindungsgemäßen Hautbehandlungsmitteln ausgezeichnete sensorische Eigenschaften und (für Stifte) eine hohe Stabilität verleihen. Die Ester setzen sich aus gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten Monocarbonsäuren und gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten einwertigen Alkoholen zusammen. Auch Ester aus aromatischen Carbonsäuren bzw. Hydroxycarbonsäuren (z. B. 12-Hydroxystearinsäure) und gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkoholen sind erfindungsgemäß einsetzbar. Besonders bevorzugt ist, die Wachskomponenten zu wählen aus der Gruppe der Ester aus gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkancarbonsäuren einer Kettenlänge von 12 bis 24 C-Atomen und den gesättigten verzweigten oder unverzweigten Alkoholen einer Kettenlänge von 16 bis 50 C-Atomen, die einen Schmelzpunkt > 50°C haben. Insbesondere können als Wachskomponente C_16-36-Alkylstearate und C_18-38-Alkylhydroxystearoylstearate, C_20-40-Alkylerucate sowie Cetearylbehenat vorteilhaft sein. Das Wachs oder die Wachskomponenten weisen einen Schmelzpunkt > 50°C, bevorzugt > 60°C, auf. Eine besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthält als Wachskomponente ein C₂₀-C₄₀-Alkylstearat. Dieser Ester ist unter den Namen Kesterwachs^® K82H oder Kesterwachs^® K80H bekannt und wird von Koster Keunen Inc. vertrieben. Es handelt sich um die synthetische Nachahmung der Monoesterfraktion des Bienenwachses und zeichnet sich durch seine Härte, seine Ölgelierfähigkeit und seine breite Kompatibiltät mit Lipidkomponenten aus. Dieses Wachs kann als Stabilisator und Konsistenzregulator für W/O- und O/W-Emulsionen verwendet werden. Kesterwachs bietet den Vorteil, dass es auch bei geringen Konzentrationen eine exzellente Ölgelierfähigkeit aufweist und so die Stiftmasse nicht zu schwer macht und einen samtigen Abrieb ermöglicht. Eine weitere besonders bevorzugte Ausführungsform der Erfindung enthält als Wachskomponente Cetearylbehenat, d. h. Mischungen aus Cetylbehenat und Stearylbehenat. Dieser Ester ist unter dem Namen Kesterwachs^® K62 bekannt und wird von Koster Keunen Inc. vertrieben. Weitere bevorzugte Lipid- oder Wachskomponenten mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C sind die Triglyceride gesättigter und gegebenenfalls hydroxylierter C_12-30-Fettsäuren, wie gehärtete Triglyceridfette (hydriertes Palmöl, hydriertes Kokosöl, hydriertes Rizinusöl), Glyceryltribehenat (Tribehenin) oder Glyceryltri-12-hydroxystearat, weiterhin synthetische Vollester aus Fettsäuren und Glycolen oder Polyolen mit 2-6 Kohlenstoffatomen, solange sie einen Schmelzpunkt oberhalb von 50°C aufweisen, beispielsweise bevorzugt C₁₈-C₃₆ Acid Triglyceride (Syncrowax^® HGL-C). Erfindungsgemäß ist als Wachskomponente hydriertes Rizinusöl, erhältlich z.B. als Handelsprodukt Cutina^® HR, besonders bevorzugt. Weitere bevorzugte Lipid- oder Wachskomponenten mit einem Schmelzpunkt > 50°C sind die gesättigten linearen C₁₄-C₃₆-Carbonsäuren, insbesondere Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure und Behensäure sowie Mischungen dieser Verbindungen, z. B. Syncrowax^® AW 1C (C₁₈-C₃₆-Fettsäuren) oder Cutina^® FS 45 (Palmitin- und Stearinsäure).
• k) Emulgatoren/Dispergatoren Hierbei handelt es sich um oberflächenaktive Substanzen, die vorzugsweise im Stande sind, nicht mischbare Flüssigkeiten wie Öl und Wasser stabil ineinander zu verteilen bzw. die das Dispergieren eines pulverförmigen Feststoffes in einem flüssigen Medium verbessern. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen, die als Wasser-in-Öl-Emulsion konfektioniert sind, enthalten bevorzugt mindestens einen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator. Der mindestens eine Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator ist bevorzugt in einer Menge von 0,5-5 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1,0-1,5-2,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Emulsion, enthalten. Eine erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Gruppe von Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren sind die Poly-(C₂-C₃)-alkylenglycol-modifizierten Silicone, deren frühere INCI-Bezeichnung Dimethicone Copolyol lautete, mit den aktuellen INCI-Bezeichnungen PEG-x Dimethicone (mit x = 2-20, bevorzugt 3-17, besonders bevorzugt 11-12), Bis-PEG-y Dimethicone (mit y = 3-25, bevorzugt 4-20), PEG/PPG a/b Dimethicone (wobei a und b unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 2-30, bevorzugt 3-30 und besonders bevorzugt 12-20, insbesondere 14-18, stehen), Bis-PEG/PPG-c/d Dimethicone (wobei c und d unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 10-25, bevorzugt 14-20 und besonders bevorzugt 14-16, stehen) und Bis-PEG/PPG-e/f PEG/PPG g/h Dimethicone (wobei e, f, g und h unabhängig voneinander für Zahlen von 10-20, bevorzugt 14-18 und besonders bevorzugt 16, stehen). Besonders bevorzugt sind PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, das in einer 1:9-Mischung mit Cyclomethicone als DC 3225 C bzw. DC 5225 C im Handel erhältlich ist, PEG/PPG-4/12 Dimethicone, das unter der Bezeichnung Abil B 8852 erhältlich ist, sowie Bis-PEG/PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, das in einer Mischung mit Cyclomethicone als Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt) im Handel erhältlich ist, Bis-PEG/PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, das unter der Bezeichnung Abil B 8832 erhältlich ist, PEG/PPG-5/3 Trisiloxane (Silsoft 305), sowie PEG/PPG-20/23 Dimethicone (Silsoft 430 und Silsoft 440). Weitere erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte W/O-Emulgatoren sind Poly-(C₂-C₃)alkylenglycol-modifizierte Silicone, die mit C₄-C₁₈-Alkylgruppen hydrophob modifiziert sind, besonders bevorzugt Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone (früher: Cetyl Dimethicone Copolyol, erhältlich als Abil EM 90 oder in einer Mischung aus Polyglyceryl-4-isostearat, Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1 Dimethicone und Hexyllaurat unter der Handelsbezeichnung Abil WE 09), weiterhin Alkyl Methicone Copolyole und Alkyl Dimethicone Ethoxy Glucoside. Die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen, die als Emulsion, insbesondere als Öl-in-Wasser-Emulsion oder Polyol-in-Wasser-Emulsion, formuliert sind, enthalten bevorzugt mindestens einen nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert von mehr als 7. Hierbei handelt es sich um dem Fachmann allgemein bekannte Emulgatoren, wie sie beispielsweise in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3. Aufl., 1979, Band 8, Seite 913-916, aufgelistet sind. Für ethoxylierte Produkte wird der HLB-Wert nach der Formel HLB = (100 – L):5 berechnet, wobei L der Gewichtsanteil der lipophilen Gruppen, das heißt der Fettalkyl- oder Fettacylgruppen, in den Ethylenoxidaddukten, ausgedrückt in Gewichtsprozent, ist. Bei der Auswahl erfindungsgemäß geeigneter nichtionischer Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren ist es besonders bevorzugt, ein Gemisch von nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren einzusetzen, um die Stabilität der erfindungsgemäßen Stiftzusammensetzungen optimal einstellen zu können. Die einzelnen Emulgatorkomponenten liefern dabei einen Anteil zum Gesamt-HLB-Wert oder mittleren HLB-Wert des Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches gemäß ihrem Mengenanteil an der Gesamtmenge der Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren. Erfindungsgemäß beträgt der mittlere HLB-Wert des Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemisches 10-19, bevorzugt 12-18 und besonders bevorzugt 14-17. Um derartige mittlere HLB-Werte zu erzielen, werden bevorzugt Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren aus den HLB-Wertbereichen 10-14, 14-16 und gegebenenfalls 16-19 miteinander kombiniert. Selbstverständlich können die Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatorgemische auch nichtionische Emulgatoren mit HLB-Werten im Bereich von > 7-10 und 19-20 enthalten; derartige Emulgatorgemische können erfindungsgemäß ebenfalls bevorzugt sein. Die erfindungsgemäßen Hautbehandlungsmittel können aber in einer anderen bevorzugten Ausführungsform auch nur einen einzigen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert im Bereich von 10-19 enthalten. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass die nichtionischen Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren ausgewählt sind aus ethoxylierten C₈-C₂₄-Alkanolen mit durchschnittlich 10-100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol, ethoxylierten C₈-C₂₄-Carbonsäuren mit durchschnittlich 10-100 Mol Ethylenoxid pro Mol, Silicon-Copolyolen mit Ethylenoxid-Einheiten oder mit Ethylenoxid- und Propylenoxid-Einheiten, Alkylmono- und -oligoglycosiden mit 8 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen im Alkylrest und deren ethoxylierten Analoga, ethoxylierten Sterinen, Partialestern von Polyglycerinen mit 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten und mit 1 bis 4 gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäureresten verestert, sofern sie einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 aufweisen, sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Die ethoxylierten C₈-C₂₄-Alkanole haben die Formel R¹O(CH₂CH₂O)_nH, wobei R¹ steht für einen linearen oder verzweigten Alkyl- und/oder Alkenylrest mit 8-24 Kohlenstoffatomen und n, die mittlere Anzahl der Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, für Zahlen von 10-100, vorzugsweise 10-30 Mol Ethylenoxid an 1 Mol Caprylalkohol, 2-Ethylhexylalkohol, Caprinalkohol, Laurylalkohol, Isotridecylalkohol, Myristylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Palmitoleylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Isostearylalkohol, Oleylalkohol, Elaidylalkohol, Petroselinylalkohol, Arachylalkohol, Gadoleylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Erucylalkohol und Brassidylalkohol sowie deren technische Mischungen. Auch Addukte von 10-100 Mol Ethylenoxid an technische Fettalkohole mit 12-18 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie beispielsweise Kokos-, Palm-, Palmkern- oder Talgfettalkohol, sind geeignet. Die ethoxylierten C₈-C₂₄-Carbonsäuren haben die Formel R¹(OCH₂CH₂)_nOH, wobei R¹ steht für einen linearen oder verzweigten gesättigten oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 8-24 Kohlenstoffatomen und n, die mittlere Anzahl der Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, für Zahlen von 10-100, vorzugsweise 10-30 Mol Ethylenoxid an 1 Mol Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Cetylsäure, Palmitoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure, Erucasäure und Brassidinsäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Auch Addukte von 10-100 Mol Ethylenoxid an technische Fettsäuren mit 12-18 Kohlenstoffatomen, wie Kokos-, Palm-, Palmkern- oder Talgfettsäure, sind geeignet. Besonders bevorzugt sind PEG-50-monostearat, PEG-100-monostearat, PEG-50-monooleat, PEG-100-monooleat, PEG-50-monolaurat und PEG-100-monolaurat. Besonders bevorzugt eingesetzt werden die C₁₂-C₁₈-Alkanole oder die C₁₂-C₁₈-Carbonsäuren mit jeweils 10-30 Einheiten Ethylenoxid pro Molekül sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen, insbesondere Ceteth-12, Ceteth-20, Ceteth-30, Steareth-12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Laureth-12 und Beheneth-20. Weiterhin werden vorzugsweise C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside eingesetzt. C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside stellen bekannte, handelsübliche Tenside und Emulgatoren dar. Ihre Herstellung erfolgt insbesondere durch Umsetzung von Glucose oder Oligosacchariden mit primären Alkoholen mit 8-22 Kohlenstoffatomen. Bezüglich des Glycosidrestes gilt, dass sowohl Monoglycoside, bei denen ein cyclischer Zuckerrest glycosidisch an den Fettalkohol gebunden ist, als auch oligomere Glycoside mit einem Oligomerisationsgrad bis etwa 8, vorzugsweise 1-2, geeignet sind. Der Oligomerisierungsgrad ist dabei ein statistischer Mittelwert, dem eine für solche technischen Produkte übliche Homologenverteilung zugrunde liegt. Produkte, die unter dem Warenzeichen Plantacare^® erhältlich sind, enthalten eine glucosidisch gebundene C₈-C₁₆-Alkylgruppe an einem Oligoglucosidrest, dessen mittlerer Oligomerisationsgrad bei 1-2, insbesondere bei 1,1-1,4, liegt. Besonders bevorzugte C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside sind ausgewählt aus Octylglucosid, Decylglucosid, Laurylglucosid, Palmitylglucosid, Isostearylglucosid, Stearylglucosid, Arachidylglucosid und Behenylglucosid sowie Mischungen hiervon. Auch die vom Glucamin abgeleiteten Acylglucamide sind als nicht-ionische Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren geeignet. Auch ethoxylierte Sterine, insbesondere ethoxylierte Sojasterine, stellen erfindungsgemäß geeignete Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgatoren dar. Der Ethoxylierungs grad muss größer als 5, bevorzugt mindestens 10 sein, um einen HLB-Wert größer 7 aufzuweisen. Geeignete Handelsprodukte sind z. B. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol und PEG-25 Soy Sterol. Weiterhin werden vorzugsweise Partialester von Polyglycerinen mit 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten und mit 1 bis 4 gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäureresten verestert, eingesetzt, sofern sie einen HLB-Wert von mehr als 7 aufweisen. Besonders bevorzugt sind Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, Diglycerinmonolaurat, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, Triglycerinmonolaurat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, Decaglycerinmonolaurat, Decaglycerinmonomyristat, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, Decaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonooleat, Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglycerintrioleat und Decaglycerintrihydroxystearat. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass der nichtionische Öl-in-Wasser-Emulgator in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,5-10 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 1-4 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 1,5-3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten ist. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen, die als Emulsion oder Stift formuliert sind, enthalten bevorzugt weiterhin mindestens einen nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0, ausgewählt aus den Mono- und Diestern von Ethylenglycol und den Mono-, Di-, Tri- und Tetraestern von Pentaerythrit mit linearen gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, die hydroxyliert sein können, sowie Mischungen hiervon, als Konsistenzgeber und/oder Wasserbinder. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt sind die Mono- und Diester. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäurereste sind ausgewählt aus Laurinsäure-, Myristinsäure-, Palmitinsäure-, Stearinsäure-, Arachinsäure- und Behensäure-Resten; besonders bevorzugt ist der Stearinsäurerest. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte nichtionische Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 sind ausgewählt aus Pentaerythritylmonostearat, Pentaerythrityldistearat, Pentaerythrityltristearat, Pentaerythrityltetrastearat, Ethylenglycolmonostearat, Ethylenglycoldistearat sowie Mischungen hiervon. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 sind zum Beispiel als Handelsprodukte Cutina^® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina^® AGS (INCI: Glycol distearate) oder Cutina^® EGMS (INCI: Glycol stearate) erhältlich. Diese Handelsprodukte stellen bereits Mischungen aus Mono- und Diestern (bei den Pentaerythritylestern sind auch Tri- und Tetraester enthalten) dar. Erfindungsgemäß kann es bevorzugt sein, nur einen einzigen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator einzusetzen. In einer anderen bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Mischungen, insbesondere technische Mischungen, von mindestens zwei Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren. Unter einer technischen Mischung wird beispielsweise ein Handelsprodukt wie Cutina^® PES verstan den. Außer den genannten Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren auf Basis der Ethylenglycol- oder Pentaerythritylester kann in einer bevorzugten Ausführungsform auch noch mindestens ein weiterer nichtionischer Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 enthalten sein, dessen Anteil an dem Gesamtgewicht an nichtionischen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 bevorzugt allerdings nicht größer als 80 % sein sollte. In einer besonders bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen den mindestens einen zusätzlichen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator mit einem HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 nur in einem Gewichtsanteil von maximal 10 % beziehungsweise sind frei von zusätzlichen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren. Einige dieser zusätzlichen geeigneten Emulgatoren sind beispielsweise in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3. Aufl., 1979, Band 8, Seite 913 , aufgelistet. Für ethoxylierte Addukte lässt sich der HLB-Wert, wie bereits erwähnt, auch berechnen. Als Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator bevorzugt geeignet sind: lineare gesättigte Alkanole mit 12-30 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere mit 16-22 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere Cetylalkohol, Stearylalkohol, Arachidylalkohol, Behenylalkohol und Lanolinalkohol oder Gemische dieser Alkohole, wie sie bei der technischen Hydrierung von pflanzlichen und tierischen Fettsäuren erhältlich sind, Ester und insbesondere Partialester aus einem Polyol mit 3-6 C-Atomen und linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten Fettsäuren mit 12-30, insbesondere 14-22 C-Atomen, die hydroxyliert sein können. Solche Ester oder Partialester sind z. B. die Mono- und Diester von Glycerin oder die Monoester von Propylenglycol mit linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen mit Palmitin- und Stearinsäure, die Sorbitanmono-, -di- oder -triester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können, insbesondere diejenigen von Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Stearinsäure oder von Mischungen dieser Fettsäuren und die Methylglucosemono- und -diester von linearen gesättigten und ungesättigten C₁₂-C₃₀-Carbonsäuren, die hydroxyliert sein können; Sterine, also Steroide, die am C3-Atom des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine, z. B. Cholesterin, Lanosterin) wie auch aus Pflanzen (Phytosterine, z. B. Ergosterin, Stigmasterin, Sitosterin) und aus Pilzen und Hefen (Mykosterine) isoliert werden und die niedrig ethoxyliert (1-5 EO) sein können; Alkanole und Carbonsäuren mit jeweils 8-24 C-Atomen, insbesondere mit 16-22 C-Atomen, in der Alkylgruppe und 1-4 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten pro Molekül, die einen HLB-Wert größer 1,0 und kleiner/gleich 7,0 aufweisen; Glycerinmonoether gesättigter und/oder ungesättigter, verzweigter und/oder unverzweigter Alkohole einer Kettenlänge von 8-30, insbesondere 12-18 Kohlenstoffatomen; Partialester von Polyglycerinen mit n = 2 bis 10 Glycerineinheiten und mit 1 bis 5 gesättigten oder ungesättigten, linearen oder verzweigten, gegebenenfalls hydroxylierten C₈-C₃₀-Fettsäureresten verestert, sofern sie einen HLB-Wert von kleiner/gleich 7 aufweisen, sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Erfindungsgemäß kann es bevorzugt sein, nur einen einzigen zusätzlichen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator einzusetzen. In einer anderen bevorzugten Ausführungsform enthalten die erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen Mischungen, insbesondere technische Mischungen, von mindestens zwei zusätzlichen Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren. Unter einer technischen Mischung wird beispielsweise ein Handelsprodukt wie Cutina^® GMS verstanden, das eine Mischung aus Glycerylmonostearat und Glyceryldistearat darstellt. Besonders vorteilhaft einsetzbare zusätzli che Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgatoren sind Stearylalkohol, Cetylalkohol, Glycerylmonostearat, insbesondere in Form der Handelsprodukte Cutina^® GMS und Cutina^® MD (ex Cognis), Glyceryldistearat, Glycerylmonocaprinat, Glycerylmonocaprylat, Glycerylmonolaurat, Glycerylmonomyristat, Glycerylmonopalmitat, Glycerylmonohydroxystearat, Glycerylmonooleat, Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, Glyceryldioleat, Propylenglycolmonostearat, Propylenglycolmonolaurat, Sorbitanmonocaprylat, Sorbitanmonolaurat, Sorbitanmonomyristat, Sorbitanmonopalmitat, Sorbitanmonostearat, Sorbitansesquistearat, Sorbitandistearat, Sorbitandioleat, Sorbitansesquioleat, Saccharosedistearat, Arachidylalkohol, Behenylalkohol, Polyethylenglycol(2)stearylether (Steareth-2), Steareth-5, Oleth-2, Diglycerinmonostearat, Diglycerinmonoisostearat, Diglycerinmonooleat, Diglycerindihydroxystearat, Diglycerindistearat, Diglycerindioleat, Triglycerindistearat, Tetraglycerinmonostearat, Tetraglycerindistearat, Tetraglycerintristearat, Decaglycerinpentastearat, Decaglycerinpentahydroxystearat, Decaglycerinpentaisostearat, Decaglycerinpentaoleat, Soy Sterol, PEG-1 Soy Sterol, PEG-5 Soy Sterol, PEG-2-monolaurat und PEG-2-monostearat. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass mindestens ein Wasser-in-Öl-Emulgator in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,1-15 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,5-8,0 Gew.-%, und besonders bevorzugt 1-4 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten sind. Weiterhin können auch Mengen von 2-3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, erfindungsgemäß außerordentlich bevorzugt sein.
• l) Emulsionsstabilisatoren Diese können den Prozeß der Emulgierung (vgl. Emulgatoren) noch weiter unterstützen und auf diese Weise die Stabilität und Haltbarkeit des Produktes weiter verbessern.
• m) Enthaarungsmittel und Wirkstoffe mit Haarwuchs inhibierender Wirkung. Diese dienen der vorzugsweise selektiven Entfernung von Körperbehaarung beziehungsweise der Verhinderung des Nachwachsens von entferntem, beispielsweise rasiertem oder epiliertem, Haar. Bevorzugte Substanzen, die den Haarwuchs inhibieren, sind insbesondere ausgewählt aus Eflornithin, Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Sojaproteinhydrolysat, Harnstoff, Menthol, Salicylsäure und Extrakten aus Hypericum Perforatum, Hamamelis Virginiana, Arnica Montana und der Rinde von Salix Alba, wie sie beispielsweise und bevorzugt in dem Rohstoff Pilinhib^® Veg IS 9109 von Laboratoires Sérobiologiques mit der INCI-Deklaration „Propylene glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic acid" enthalten ist, weiterhin Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Extrakten aus Epilobium Angustifolium, den Samen von Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, Zucchini) und den Früchten von Serenoa serrulata, wie sie beispielsweise und bevorzugt in den Rohstoffen ARP 100 von Greentech S.A./Rahn mit der INCI-Deklaration „Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract" und ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), enthalten sind, weiterhin Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Xylitol und Extrakten von Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit, Carica Papaya (Papaya) und Olivenblättern, wie sie beispielsweise und bevorzugt in dem Rohstoff Xyleine von Impag/Seporga mit der INCI-Deklaration „Xylitol and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (olive) leaf extract" enthalten sind, weiterhin Wirkstoffkombinationen aus Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya und Thuya Occidentalis, wie sie beispielsweise und bevorzugt in dem Rohstoff Plantafluid Komplex AH der Firma Plantapharm mit der INCI-Deklaration „Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya, Thuya Occidentalis" enthalten sind, sowie Extrakten aus Larrea divaricata, wie sie beispielsweise und bevorzugt in dem Rohstoff Capislow von Sederma, der Lecithinvesikel mit einem hydroglycolischen Extrakt aus Larrea divaricata enthält, enthalten sind. Weitere bevorzugte Haarwuchs-inhibierende Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus Substanzen, die die Protein-Tyrosinkinase hemmen, insbesondere aus Lavendustin-A, Erbstatin, Tyrphostin, Piceatannol, 4-Hydroxybenxylidenmalononitril, 3,5-Di-tert-butyl-4- hydroxybenzylidenmalononitril, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-cinnamonitril, α-Cyano-(3,4,5-trihydroxy)cinnamonitril, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)cinnamid, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)thiocinnamid, 2-Amino-4-(4'-hydroxyphenyl)-1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-dien, 2-Amino-4-(3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl)-1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-dien, 2-Amino-4-(1H-alphaindol-5-yl)-1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-dien, 4-Hydroxy-3-methoxy-5-(benzothiazolylthiomethyl)benzylidencyanoacetamid, 4-Amino-N-(2,5-dihydroxybenzyl)methylbenzoat, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-cinnamonitril, 4-(3-Chloranilino)-6,7-dimethoxychinazolin, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-N-benzylcinnamid, (–)-R-N-(a-Methylbenzyl)-3,4-dihydroxybenzylidencyanoacetamid, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-N-(3-phenylpropyl)-cinnamid, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-N-phenylcinnamid, α-Cyano-(+)-(S)-N-(alpha-phenethyl)-(3,4-dihydroxy)cinnamid, α-Cyano-(3,4-dihydroxy)-N-(phenylbutyl)cinnamid, Herbimycin A, Thiazolidindion, Phenazocin, 2,3-Dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indol-3-Alkansäuren, 2,2'-Dithiobis-(1H-indol-3-Alkansäuren), Sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrol, Methylcaffeat, HNMPA(AM)₃(hydroxy-2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonsäure-tris-acetoxymethylester) und N-Acetyl-Asp-Tyr-(2-malonyl)-Val-Pro-Met-Leu-NH₂. Weitere bevorzugte Haarwuchs-inhibierende Wirkstoffe sind ausgewählt aus den in WO 2006/ 130330 A2 offenbarten Substanzen, nämlich Agonisten des Farnesoid X-Rezeptors, bevorzugt ausgewählt aus Gallensäuren, wie insbesondere Lithocholsäure, Cholsäure, Deoxycholsäure, Chenodeoxycholsäure, Ursodeoxycholsäure und 6-alpha-Ethylchenodeoxycholsäure, weiterhin aus Farnesoiden, insbesondere Farnesol (3,7,11-Trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), Farnesal, Farnesylacetat, 3,7,11-Trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatrien-1-carbonsäure, Methylfarnesylether, Methylfarnesoat, Ethylfarnesylether, Ethylfarnesoat, weiterhin aus 7-Methyl-9-(3,3-dimethyloxivanyl)-3-methyl-2,6-nonadiensäuremethylester (Juvenilhormon III), 7-Methyl-9-(3,3-dimethyloxivanyl)-3-methyl-2,6-nonadiensäureethylester, 3-alpha, 7-alpha-Dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-säure, 7-alpha-Dihydroxy-6-alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-säure, 7-alpha-Dihydroxy-6-alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-säure, N-(2,2,2-trifluoroethyl)-N-[4-[2,2,2-trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1-(trifluoromethyl)-ethyl]phenyl]-benzolsulfonanilid, 3-[2-[2-Chloro-4-[3-(2,6-dichlorophenyl)-5-(1-methylethyl)-4-isoxazolyl]methoxy]-phenylethenyl]-benzoesäure, [3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]ethenyliden]bisphosphonsäuretetraethylester, [2-[3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]ethyliden]bisphosphonsäuretetrakis(1-methylethyl)ester, [2-[3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl)-4-hydroxyphenyl]ethyliden]bisphosphonsäuretetraethylester und [3,5-bis(1,1-dimethylethyl-4-hydroxyphenyl]ethenyliden]bisphosphonsäuretetrakis(1-methylethyl)ester. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzungen enthalten mindestens eine den Haarwuchs inhibierende Substanz in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001-5 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 0,001-2 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,01-1 Gew.-%, und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,1-0,5 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gewicht an Aktivsubstanz des/der Haarwuchs inhibierenden Wirkstoffs/e und das Gesamtgewicht der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung.
• n) Feuchtigkeitsspender Diese können einen Beitrag zur Erhaltung oder Wiederherstellung der Hautfeuchtigkeit leisten und dem Austrocknen der Haut entgegenwirken. Neben den oben erwähnten Emollients eignen sich hierzu vor wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanole mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen und/oder wasserlösliche Polyethylenglycole mit 3-20 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten sowie Mischungen hiervon. Bevorzugt sind diese Komponenten ausgewählt aus 1,2-Propylenglycol, 2-Methyl-1,3-propandiol, Glycerin, Butylenglycolen wie 1,2-Butylenglycol, 1,3-Butylenglycol und 1,4-Butylenglycol, Pentylenglycolen wie 1,2-Pentandiol und 1,5-Pentandiol, Hexandiolen wie 1,6-Hexandiol, Hexantriolen wie 1,2,6-Hexantriol, 1,2-Octandiol, 1,8-Octandiol, Dipropylenglycol, Tripropylenglycol, Diglycerin, Triglycerin, Erythrit, Sorbit sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Geeignete wasserlösliche Polyethylenglycole sind ausgewählt aus PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 und PEG-20 sowie Mischungen hiervon, wobei PEG-3 bis PEG-8 bevorzugt sind. Auch Zucker und bestimmte Zuckerderivate wie Fucose, Rhamnose, Fructose, Glucose, Maltose, Maltitol, Mannit, Inosit, Sucrose, Trehalose und Xylose sind erfindungsgemäß geeignet. Bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen und/oder mindestens eine wasserlösliche Polyethylenglycol mit 3-20 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten ausgewählt ist aus 1,2-Propylenglycol, 2-Methyl-1,3-propandiol, Glycerin, Butylenglycolen wie 1,2-Butylenglycol, 1,3-Butylenglycol und 1,4-Butylenglycol, Pentylenglycolen wie 1,2-Pentandiol und 1,5-Pentandiol, Hexandiolen wie 1,6-Hexandiol, Hexantriolen wie 1,2,6-Hexantriol, 1,2-Octandiol, 1,8-Octandiol, Dipropylenglycol, Tripropylenglycol, Diglycerin, Triglycerin, Erythrit, Sorbit sowie Mischungen der vorgenannten Substanzen. Besonders bevorzugte erfindungsgemäße Hautbehandlungsmittel sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass das mindestens eine wasserlösliche mehrwertige C₂-C₉-Alkanol mit 2-6 Hydroxylgruppen und/oder mindestens eine wasserlösliche Polyethylenglycol mit 3-20 Ethylenoxid-Einheiten insgesamt in Mengen von 3-30 Gew.-%, bevorzugt 8-25 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 10-18 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf die Gesamtzusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• o) Filmbildner Diese sind dazu im Stande, einen schützenden, stabilisierenden Film auf Oberflächen, vorzugsweise Haut, Haar oder Nägeln, zu erzeugen. Mit Bezug auf die erfindungsgemäßen Mittel wirkt dieser Film vorzugsweise feuchtigkeitsspeichernd. Bevorzugte feuchtigkeitsspeichernde Filmbildner sind ausgewählt aus Polysacchariden, die mindestens einen Desoxyzucker-Baustein enthalten, besonders bevorzugt aus den Handelsprodukten Fucogel^® (INCI-Bezeichnung Biosaccharide Gum-1) von Solabia, Rhamnosoft^® (INCI-Bezeichnung Biosaccharide Gum-2) von Solabia, Fucogenol^® (INCI-Bezeichnung Biosaccharide Gum-3) von Solabia und Glycofilm^® (INCI-Bezeichnung Biosaccharide Gum-4) von Solabia, weiterhin Mischungen der vorgenannten, mindestens einen Desoxyzucker-Baustein enthaltenden Polysaccharide, beispielsweise der Mischung aus Biosaccharide Gum-2 und Biosaccharide Gum-3, erhältlich als Handelsprodukt Elastinol plus^® von Solabia, Glycosamino glycanen, besonders bevorzugt Hyaluronsäure, Dextran, Dextransulfat, Chondroitin-4-sulfat und Chondroitin-6-sulfat.
• p) Farbstoffe Diese werden kosmetischen Produkten zugesetzt, um eine Produkffärbung zu erzeugen,
• q) Konservierungsstoffe Diese werden kosmetischen Mitteln zugesetzt, um sie vor der schadhaften Einwirkung von Mikroorganismen (Bakterien, Pilze, Hefen) zu bewahren und damit ihren Verderb zu vermeiden. Zahlreiche Konservierungsstoffe haben zwangsläufig auch desodorierende Eigenschaften, da sie auch gegen geruchsverursachende Bakterien antimikrobiell wirken, so dass einige Stoffe beiden Gruppen angehören. Für Kosmetika als Konservierungsstoffe bevorzugt geeignet sind beispielsweise Benzoesäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Propyl-, Phenyl- und Butylbenzoat, Ammonium-, Natrium, Kalium- und Magnesiumbenzoat), Propionsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Ammonium-, Natrium-, Kalium-, und Magnesiumpropionat), Salicylsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Natrium-, Kalium- und Magnesiumsalicylat), 4-Hydroxybenzoesäure und deren Ester und Alkalimetallsalze (z. B. Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, Butyl-, Isobutyl-, Isodecyl-, Phenyl-, Phenoxyethyl- und Benzylparaben, Hexamidinparaben und -diparaben, Natrium- und Kaliumparaben, Natrium- und Kaliummethylparaben, Kaliumbutylparaben, Natrium- und Kaliumpropylparaben), Alkohole und deren Salze (z.B. Ethanol, Propanol, Isopropanol, Benzylalkohol, Phenethylalkohol, Phenol, Kaliumphenolat, Phenoxyethanol, Phenoxyisopropanol, o-Phenylphenol), Guajacol und dessen Derivate, Chlorhexidin und dessen Derivate (z. B. Chlorhexidindiacetat, -digluconat, und -dihydrochlorid), Hydantoin und dessen Derivate (z. B. DEDM- und DMDM-Hydantoin, DEDM-Hydantoindilaurat), Harnstoff und Harnstoffderivate (z. B. Diazolidinylharnstoff, Imidazolidinylharnstoff), Ferulasäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Ethylferulat), Sorbinsäure und deren Derivate (z. B. Isopropylsorbat, TEA-Sorbat, Natrium-, Kalium-, und Magnesiumsorbat), Isothiazol- und Oxazolderivate (z. B. Methylisothiazolinon, Methylchloroisothiazolinon, Dimethyloxazolidin), quartäre Ammoniumverbindungen (z. B. Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15), Carbamate (z. B. Iodopropynylbutylcarbamat), Formaldehyd und Natriumformat, Glutaraldehyd, Glyoxal, Hexamidin, Dehydracetsäure, 2-Bromo-2-nitropropan-1,3-diol, Isopropylkresol, Methyldibromoglutaronitril, Polyaminopropylbiguanid, Natriumhydroxymethylglycinat, Natriumphenolsulfonat, Triclocarban, Triclosan, Zinkpyrithion sowie diverse Peptid-Antibiotika (z. B. Nisin). Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Konservierungsmittel sind Phenoxyethanol, die Ester der 4-Hydroxybenzoesäure, insbesondere Methyl-, Ethyl-, Propyl-, Isopropyl-, Butyl- und Isobutylparaben sowie Iodopropynylbutylcarbamat. Die Menge der Konservierungsmittel in den bevorzugten erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen beträgt 0,001-10 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,01-5 Gew.-% und insbesondere 0,1-3 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung.
• r) Korrosionsschutzmittel Diese können z.B. dazu dienen, die Korrosion der Verpackung z.B. eines kosmetischen Mittels zu verhindern oder aber auch die Korrosion von Teilen, die mit dem Mittel ansonsten in Kontakt treten.
• s) Hautkühlende Wirkstoffe Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen enthalten weiterhin bevorzugt mindestens einen hautkühlenden Wirkstoff. Erfindungsgemäß geeignete hautkühlende Wirkstoffe sind beispielsweise Menthol, Isopulegol sowie Mentholderivate, z. B. Menthyllactat, Menthylglycolat, Menthylpyrrolidoncarbonsäure, Menthylmethylether, Menthoxypropandiol, Menthonglycerinacetal (9-Methyl-6-(1-methylethyl)-1,4-dioxaspiro(4.5)decan-2-methanol), Monomenthylsuccinat und 2-Hydroxymethyl-3,5,5-trimethylcyclohexanol. Als hautkühlende Wirkstoffe bevorzugt sind Menthol, Isopulegol, Menthyllactat, Menthoxypropandiol und Menthylpyrrolidoncarbonsäure sowie Mischungen dieser Substanzen, insbesondere Mischungen von Menthol und Menthyllactat, Menthol, Mentholglycolat und Menthyllactat, Menthol und Menthoxypropandiol oder Menthol und Isopulegol. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt ist, dass mindestens ein hautkühlender Wirkstoff in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,01-1 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 0,02-0,5 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 0,05-0,2 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• t) pH-Wert-Regler/Puffersubstanzen Diese können z.B. in Kosmetika dazu dienen, um einen gewünschten pH-Wert einzustellen bzw. zu stabilisieren.
• u) Tenside/Waschaktive Substanzen Dies sind grenzflächenaktive Verbindungen, die Reinigungszwecken oder aber der besseren Abwaschbarkeit der erfindungsgemäßen Mittel dienen.
• v) Treibgase Dies sind gasförmige Substanzen, mit denen die erfindungsgemäßen kosmetischen Mittel unter Druck in druckbeständigen Behältern gesetzt werden können, um den Inhalt dann bei Druckentlastung hervorzubringen. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen, die als treibgasgetriebenes Aerosol konfektioniert sind, enthalten mindestens ein Treibmittel. Bevorzugte Treibmittel (Treibgase) sind Propan, Propen, n-Butan, iso-Butan, iso-Buten, n-Pentan, Penten, iso-Pentan, iso-Penten, Methan, Ethan, Dimethylether, Stickstoff, Luft, Sauerstoff, Lachgas, 1,1,1,3-Tetrafluorethan, Heptafluoro-n-propan, Perfluorethan, Monochlordifluormethan, 1,1-Difluorethan, und zwar sowohl einzeln als auch in Kombination. Auch hydrophile Treibgase, wie z. B. Kohlendioxid, können vorteilhaft im Sinne der vorliegenden Erfindung eingesetzt werden, wenn der Anteil an hydrophilen Gasen gering gewählt wird und lipophiles Treibgas (z. B. Propan/Butan) im Überschuss vorliegt. Besonders bevorzugt sind Propan, n-Butan, iso-Butan sowie Mischungen dieser Treibgase. Es hat sich gezeigt, dass der Einsatz von n-Butan als einzigem Treibgas erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt sein kann. Die Menge der Treibmittel beträgt bevorzugt 20-80 Gew.-%, besonders bevorzugt 30-70 Gew.-% und außerordentlich bevorzugt 40-50 Gew.-%, jeweils bezogen auf das Gesamtgewicht der Zubereitung, bestehend aus der erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzung und dem Treibmittel
• w) Trübungsmittel Diese kann man vorzugsweise durchsichtigen oder durchscheinenden Produkten beigeben, um sie undurchdringlicher für sichtbares Licht oder lichtnahe Strahlung zu machen. Dies kann zum Schutz des photokatalytischen Wirkstoffs während der Lagerung in transparenten oder transluzenten Behältern gegebenenfalls von Vorteil sein; die Schichtdicke, die später auf die auf die Haut appliziert wird, ist so gering, dass der Zusatz eines Trübungsmittels die Wirksamkeit des photokatalytischen Wirkstoffs nicht beeinträchtigt.
• x) UV-Absorber/Lichtfiltersubstanzen Sie sind im Stande, bestimmte UV-Strahlen zu filtern und können auf diese Weise z.B. die Haut vor vorzeitiger, lichtbedingter Alterung sowie vor Sonnenbrand schützen. UV-Absorber können in geringen Mengen aber auch als Produktschutz eingesetzt werden.
• y) Vergällungsmittel Diese werden kosmetischen Mitteln, die Ethanol enthalten, zugesetzt, um sie ungenießbar zu machen.
• z) Viskositätsregler Diese sind im Stande, die Zähflüssigkeit eines Produkts zu erhöhen oder auch zu verringern.

Preferred optional ingredients of the cosmetic compositions of the invention can be defined by their function. Of course, some ingredients can also be multifunctional. Preferred ingredients of the compositions according to the invention, preferably cosmetic products, can be:

• a) Absorbents These preferably have the task of absorbing water and / or oil-soluble dissolved or finely divided substances.
• b) Antimicrobials These may be added to the products to generally reduce the activities of microorganisms, especially the microorganisms responsible for the formation of acne. These germs include, among others, various species from the group of staphylococci, the group of Corynebacteria, anaerococci and micrococci, in particular Corynebacterium acnes, Corynebacterium granulosum, Propionibacterium acnes, Propionibacterium avidum and Propionibacterium granulosum. Preferred antimicrobial or antimicrobial agents according to the invention are in particular organohalogen compounds and halides, quaternary ammonium compounds, a number of plant extracts and zinc compounds. These include triclosan, chlorhexidine and chlorhexidine gluconate, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, bromochlorophene, dichlorophen, chlorothymol, chloroxylenol, hexachlorophene, dichloro-m-xylenol, dequalinium chloride, domiphenbromide, ammonium phenolsulfonate, benzalkonium halides, benzalkonium cetyl phosphate, benzalkonium saccharinates, benzethonium chloride, cetylpyridinium chloride, Laurylpyridinium chloride, laurylisoquinolinium bromide, methylbenzedonium chloride. Furthermore, phenol, phenoxyethanol, disodium dihydroxyethylsulfosuccinylundecylenate, sodium bicarbonate, zinc lactate, sodium phenolsulfonate and zinc phenolsulfonate, ketoglutaric acid, terpene alcohols such as. As farnesol, chlorophyllin copper complexes, α-monoalkyl glycerol ether with a branched or linear saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C ₆ -C ₂₂ alkyl, particularly preferably α- (2-ethylhexyl) glycerol ether, commercially available as Sensiva ^® SC 50 (ex Schülke & Mayr), carboxylic esters of mono-, di- and triglycerin (eg glycerol monolaurate, diglycerol monocaprinate), lantibiotics and plant extracts (eg green tea and components of lime blossom oil). Further preferred active substances against acne and impure skin are selected from so-called prebiotically active components, which according to the invention are to be understood as meaning those components which inhibit only or at least predominantly the odor-causing germs of the skin microflora, but not the desired ones, that is, the non-odor-forming germs. that belong to a healthy skin microflora. Explicitly here are the active substances, which are in the publications DE 10333245 and DE 10 2004 011 968 are disclosed as being prebiotic effective; these include conifer extracts, in particular from the group of Pinaceae, and plant extracts from the group of Sapindaceae, Araliaceae, Lamiaceae and Saxifragaceae, in particular extracts from Picea spp., Paullinia sp., Panax sp., Lamium album or Ribes nigrum and mixtures of these substances.
• c) Antiperspirants These are preferably used in antiperspirants and reduce the sweat delivery. Antiperspirant active ingredients have a pore-astringent action and are therefore frequently used in skin treatment preparations for sebum suppression. The amounts used for sebum suppression are usually lower than the amounts used for sweat inhibition and are in the range of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 2-3 wt .-%. Preferred agents according to the invention contain - to support the overall performance of the product - at least one astringent antiperspirant active ingredient selected from the water-soluble astringent inorganic and organic salts of aluminum, zirconium and zinc or any mixtures of these salts. Particularly preferred antiperspirant active ingredients are selected from the aluminum chlorohydrates, in particular the aluminum chlorohydrates having the general formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl. 2-3 H ₂ O] _n , which may be present in unactivated or in activated (depolymerized) form , further aluminum sesquichlorohydrate, aluminum chlorohydrex propylene glycol (PG) or polyethylene glycol (PEG), aluminum sesquichlorohydrex PG or PEG, aluminum PG dichlorohydrex or aluminum PEG dichlorhydrate, aluminum hydroxide towards selected from the Aluminiumzirconiumchlorhydraten as Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrat, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrat, the aluminum-zirconium chlorohydrate glycine complexes, such as Aluminiumzirconiumtrichlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumtetrachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumpentachlorhydrexglycin, Aluminiumzirconiumoctachlorhydrexglycin, potassium aluminum sulphate (KAl (SO _{4) 2} · 12 H ₂ O, alum) , Aluminum undecylenoyl collagen amino acid, sodium aluminum lactate + aluminum sulfate, sodium aluminum chlorhydroxylactate, aluminum bromohydrate, aluminum chloride, the complexes of zinc and sodium salts, the complexes of lanthanum and cerium, the aluminum salts of lipoamino acids, aluminum sulfate, aluminum lactate, aluminum chlorohydrate, sodium aluminum chlorohydroxactate, zinc chloride, zinc sulfocarbolate, zinc sulfate and zirconium chlorohydrate. According to the invention, water solubility is understood as meaning a solubility of at least 5% by weight at 20 ° C., that is to say amounts of at least 5 g of the antiperspirant active are soluble in 95 g of water at 20 ° C. The antiperspirant active ingredients can be used as an aqueous solution. Preferred anhydrous agents according to the invention preferably contain at least one activated aluminum chlorohydrate, preferably a raw material from the series ^REACH® from Reheis.
• d) Antifoaming agents These may be added, for example to remove foam during manufacture or to reduce the tendency of finished products to over-foam.
• e) Binders They ensure, for example, the cohesion of powdered and powdered cosmetic products.
• f) Substances of biological origin These are eg certain phytonutrients, eg green tea extract. They are intended to impart certain desired properties to a product which are related to the corresponding biological material, or to further improve existing properties or to suppress undesirable properties or reduce them as much as possible.
• g) Bleaching agents These can be used, for example, to lighten the color of the hair or the skin.
• h) Chelating agents These are added, for example, to cosmetics to form complexes with metal ions, for example to improve the storage stability of the compositions according to the invention. Particularly preferred as a complex-forming substance is ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA) and its sodium salts, such as those available under the trade name Trilon B from BASF, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA) and its sodium salts, β-alaninediacetic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids and their salts. The at least one complex-forming substance is preferably contained in a total amount of 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.08-0.2 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
• i) deodorant active ingredients, in a further preferred embodiment, the agents according to the invention may contain at least one deodorant active ingredient. This may preferably be selected from the already mentioned antimicrobial agents. Furthermore, it may be preferable to use an active substance which inhibits the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition, in particular the arylsulfatase, β-glucuronidase, aminoacylase, esterases, lipases and / or lipoxigenase, for. B. trialkylcitric acid, in particular triethyl citrate, or zinc glycinate. Further inhibitors of the enzymes responsible for the sweat decomposition enzymes and germs are disclosed in WO 03/039505 A2 . WO 01/99376 A2 . EP 1430879 A2 . EP 1428520 A2 . EP 1738803 A1 . EP 1576946 A1 and DE 102 16 368 A1 , Further preferred deodorant active ingredients are odor absorbers and deodorizing ion exchangers. Silicates serve as odor absorbers, which at the same time advantageously support the rheological properties of the composition according to the invention. Among the silicates which are particularly advantageous according to the invention are, in particular, phyllosilicates and, among these, in particular montmorillonite, kaolinite, IIit, beidellite, nontronite, saponite, hectorite, bentonite, smectite and talcum. Further advantageous odor absorbers are, for example, zeolites, Zinkricinoleat, Cyclodex trine, certain metal oxides, such as. As alumina, and chlorophyll. They are preferably used in an amount of 0.1-10% by weight, more preferably 0.5-7% by weight and most preferably 1-5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition.
• j) Emollients These have the task of smoothing and smoothing the skin. Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are present as an emulsion, suspension, spray or stick, comprise as emollient at least one oil which is liquid at 20 ° C. and which does not constitute a fragrance component and does not represent an essential oil. Oils preferred according to the invention are selected from branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms. These alcohols are also often referred to as Guerbet alcohols, as they are obtainable by the Guerbet reaction. Preferred oils are alcohol Hexyldecanol (Eutanol ^® G 16, Guerbitol ^® T 16) Octyldodecanol (Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 20), 2-ethylhexyl alcohol and the commercial products Guerbitol ^® 18, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb ^® 12, Isocarb ^® 16 or Isocarb ^® 24. Further preferred oil components are mixtures of Guerbet alcohols and Guerbet alcohol esters, for example the commercial product Cetiol ^® PGL (hexyldecanol and hexyldecyl laurate. Further according to the invention, preferred emollient oils are selected from the triglycerides of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, optionally hydroxylated C _8-30 fatty acids. particularly suitable, the use of natural oils such as soybean oil, cottonseed oil, sunflower oil , Palm oil, palm kernel oil, linseed oil, almond oil, castor oil, corn oil, olive oil, rapeseed oil, sesame oil, thistle oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil, and the liquid portions of coconut oil, etc. However, synthetic triglyceride oils, in particular Capric / Caprylic triglycerides, e.g. the commercial products myritol ^® 318 ^® myritol. 331 (Cognis) or Miglyol ^® 812 (Hüls) using unbranched fatty acid residues as well as glyceryl and the commercial products Estol ^® GTEH 3609 (Uniqema) or Myritol ^® GTEH (Cognis) with branched fatty acid residues. Further oils which are particularly preferred according to the invention are selected from the dicarboxylic acid esters of linear or branched C ₂ -C ₁₀ -alkanols, in particular diisopropyl adipate, di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, dioctyl adipate, diethyl / di-n-butyl / Dioctyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, dioctyl malate, dioctyl maleate, dicaprylyl maleate, diisooctyl succinate, di-2-ethylhexyl succinate and di- (2-hexyldecyl) succinate. Further oils which are particularly preferred _{according to the} invention are selected from the addition products of 1 to 5 propylene oxide units of mono- or polyhydric C _8-22 -alkanols, such as octanol, decanol, decanediol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. B. PPG-2 myristyl ether and PPG-3 myristyl ether (Witconol APM ^®). Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the esters of linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty alcohols having 2-30 carbon atoms with linear or branched saturated or unsaturated fatty acids having 2-30 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated. These include, hexyldecyl stearate (Eutanol ^® G 16 S), hexyldecyl laurate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® C 24) and 2-ethylhexyl stearate (Cetiol ^® 868). Also conditionally suitable are isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl, isopropyl oleate, isooctyl, Isononylstearat, isocetyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl, cetearyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, 2-ethylhexyl cocoate, 2-octyldodecyl, butyloctanoic-2-butyl octanoate, Diisotridecylacetat, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate, ethylene glycol dioleate and dipalmitate. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from the adducts of at least 6 ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide units with monohydric or polyhydric C _3-22 alkanols, such as butanol, butanediol, myristyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol, eg. As PPG-14 butyl ether (Ucon Fluid ^® AP), PPG-9-butyl ether (Breox ^® 625), PPG-10 butanediol (Macol ^® 57) and PPG-15 stearyl ether (Arlamol ^® E). Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the C ₈ -C ₂₂ fatty alcohol esters of monohydric or polyhydric C ₂ -C ₇ hydroxycarboxylic acids, in particular the esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid and salicylic acid. Such esters based on linear C _14/15 alkanols, eg. B. C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl lactate, and branched in the 2-position C _12/13 alkanols can be obtained under the trademark Cosmacol ^® by the company Nordmann, Rassmann GmbH & Co, Hamburg, in particular the commercial products Cosmacol ^® ESI , Cosmacol® ^® EMI and Cosmacol® ^® EIT. Further inventively preferred oil components are selected from the symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, eg. As glycerol carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC) or the esters of DE 197 56 454 A1 , Further preferred oil components according to the invention are selected from the esters of dimers of unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acids (dimer fatty acids) with monovalent linear, branched or cyclic C ₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or with polyvalent linear or branched C ₂ -C ₆ -alkanols. It may be extraordinarily preferred according to the invention to use mixtures of the abovementioned oils. Further oil components preferred according to the invention are selected from silicone oils and hydrocarbon oils. Silicone oils preferred according to the invention are selected from among dialkyl and alkylaryl siloxanes, such as, for example, cyclopentasiloxane, cyclohexasiloxane, dimethylpolysiloxane and methylphenylpolysiloxane, but also include hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyltetrasiloxane. Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from volatile silicone oils which may be cyclic, such as. For example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane and dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane and mixtures thereof, as described for. B. in the commercial products DC 244, 245, 344 and 345 of Dow Corning, or linear, z. As hexamethyldisiloxane (L ₂ ), octamethyltrisiloxane (L ₃ ), decamethyltetrasiloxane (L ₄ ), any two and three mixtures of L ₂ , L ₃ and / or L ₄ , as described, for. B. in the commercial products DC 2-1184, Dow Corning ^® 200 (0.65 cSt), and Dow Corning ^® 200 (1.5 cSt) from Dow Corning are included. Further inventively preferred silicone oils are selected from non-volatile higher molecular weight linear dimethylpolysiloxanes, commercially available z. Example under the name Dow Corning ^® 190, Dow Corning ^® 200 fluid having viscosities in the range of 5-100 cSt, preferably 5-50 cSt, or even 5-10 cSt, and Baysilon ^® 350 M. According to the invention preferred natural and synthetic hydrocarbons are selected from paraffinic oils, isohexadecane, isoeicosane, (optionally hydrogenated) polyisobutenes and polydecenes, for example, under the designation Emery ^® 3004, 3006, 3010 or under the name ^® from Albemarle Ethylflo or Nexbase ^® 2004G available from Nestle, and 1,3-di- (2-ethylhexyl) -cyclohexane (Cetiol ^® S). Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the oil (s) liquid at 20 ° C. in a total amount of 0.1-80% by weight, preferably 2-20% by weight, particularly preferably 3-15 Wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the composition, is / are included. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, a proportion of the oil components of at least 80% by weight has a refractive index n _D of 1.39-1.51. It is particularly preferred if 5-40-50 wt .-%, most preferably 10-12-25-30 wt .-% of the oil components has a refractive index n _D of 1.43-1.51, preferably 1.44-1 , 49, more preferably 1.45-1.47-1.485, at 20 ° C (measured at λ = 589 nm). In addition to the oils, that is to say the substances which are liquid under normal conditions, it is also possible to use solid lipid or wax components as emollients under normal conditions. Particularly preferred lipid or wax components are selected from coconut fatty acid glycerol mono-, di- and triesters, Butyrospermum Parkii (shea butter) and esters of saturated, monohydric C ₈ -C _{t 8 alcohols} with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof Substances contained. These lower melting lipid or wax components allow for consistency optimization of the product and a minimization of the visible residue on the skin. Especially preferred are products sold under the INCI name Cocoglycerides, in particular the commercial products Novata ^® (ex Cognis), particularly preferably Novata AB ^®, a mixture of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ mono-, di- and triglycerides, which in the range of 30- 32 ° C, as well as the products of the Softisan series (Sasol Germany GmbH) with the INCI name Hydrogenated Cocoglycerides, in particular Softisan 100, 133, 134, 138, 142. Further preferred esters of saturated, monohydric C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ - alcohols with saturated C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ monocarboxylic acids are stearyl laurate, cetearyl (z. B. Crodamol ^® CSS), cetyl palmitate (z. B. Cutina ^® CP) and myristyl myristate (z. B. Cetiol ^® MM). Emollients preferred according to the invention are furthermore natural vegetable waxes, eg. Candelilla wax, carnauba wax, Japan wax, sugarcane wax, ouricoury wax, cork wax, sunflower wax, fruit waxes such as orange waxes, lemon waxes, grapefruit wax, and animal waxes, e.g. Beeswax, shellac wax and spermaceti. For the purposes of the invention, it may be particularly preferred to use hydrogenated or hardened waxes. As a wax component and chemically modified waxes, especially the hard waxes, such as. As montan ester waxes, hydrogenated jojoba waxes and Sasol waxes used. The synthetic waxes which are likewise preferred according to the invention include, for example, polyalkylene waxes and polyethylene glycol waxes, C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ -dialkyl esters of dimer acids, C _30-50 -alkyl beeswax and alkyl and alkylaryl esters of dimer fatty acids. A particularly preferred wax component is selected from at least one ester of a saturated, monohydric C ₁₆ -C ₆₀ -alcohol and a saturated C ₈ -C ₃₆ -monocarboxylic acid. According to the invention, lactides, the cyclic double esters of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids of the corresponding chain length, also belong thereto. Esters of fatty acids and long-chain alcohols have proved to be particularly advantageous for the composition according to the invention, because they give the skin treatment compositions of the invention excellent sensory properties and (for pens) high stability. The esters are composed of saturated branched or unbranched monocarboxylic acids and saturated branched or unbranched monohydric alcohols. Esters of aromatic carboxylic acids or hydroxycarboxylic acids (eg 12-hydroxystearic acid) and saturated branched or unbranched alcohols can also be used according to the invention. It is particularly preferred to choose the wax components from the group of esters of saturated branched or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 12 to 24 carbon atoms and the saturated branched or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 16 to 50 carbon atoms and having a melting point> 50 ° C have. In particular, C _{16-36 alkyl} stearates and C _18-38 alkyl hydroxystearoyl stearates, C _20-40 alkyl erucates and cetearyl behenate may be advantageous as the wax component. The wax or the wax components have a melting point> 50 ° C, preferably> 60 ° C, on. A particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K82H or Kesterwachs ^® K80H and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. It is the synthetic imitation of the monoester fraction of beeswax and is characterized by its hardness, oil gelability and broad compatibility with lipid components. This wax can be used as a stabilizer and consistency regulator for W / O and O / W emulsions. Kester wax has the advantage that it has an excellent oil gelability even at low concentrations and so does not make the pencil mass too heavy and allows a velvety abrasion. A further particularly preferred embodiment of the invention contains as wax component cetearyl behenate, ie mixtures of cetyl behenate and stearyl behenate. This ester is known under the name Kester ^® K62 and is sold by Koster Keunen Inc.. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the triglycerides of saturated and optionally hydroxylated C _12-30 fatty acids, such as hardened triglyceride fats (hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated castor oil), glyceryl tribehenate (tribehenin) or glyceryl tri-12- hydroxystearate, furthermore synthetic full esters of fatty acids and glycols or polyols with 2-6 carbon atoms, as long as they have a melting point above 50 ° C, for example, preferably C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ Acid triglycerides (Syncrowax ^® HGL-C). According to the hydrogenated castor oil as a wax component, available for example as a commercial product Cutina ^® HR, is particularly preferred. Further preferred lipid or wax components with a melting point> 50 ° C are the saturated linear C ₁₄ -C ₃₆ carboxylic acids, in particular myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid and behenic acid and mixtures of these compounds, eg. B. Syncrowax ^® AW 1C (C ₁₈ -C ₃₆ fatty acids) or Cutina ^® FS 45 (palmitic and stearic acid).
• k) Emulsifiers / Dispersants These are surface-active substances which are preferably capable of stably dispersing immiscible liquids such as oil and water or of improving the dispersion of a pulverulent solid in a liquid medium. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a water-in-oil emulsion, preferably contain at least one water-in-oil emulsifier. The at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is preferably in an amount of 0.5-5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1.0-1.5-2.5 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of Emulsion, included. A particularly preferred group of water-in-oil emulsifiers according to the invention are the poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) -alkylene glycol-modified silicones whose earlier INCI name was dimethicone copolyol, with the current INCI names PEG-x dimethicone ( with x = 2-20, preferably 3-17, more preferably 11-12), bis-PEG-y dimethicones (with y = 3-25, preferably 4-20), PEG / PPG a / b dimethicones (where a and b independently of one another represent numbers of 2-30, preferably 3-30 and particularly preferably 12-20, in particular 14-18,), bis-PEG / PPG-c / d dimethicones (where c and d independently of one another represent numbers of 10 -25, preferably 14-20 and more preferably 14-16) and bis-PEG / PPG-e / f PEG / PPG g / h dimethicones (where e, f, g and h independently represent numbers of 10-20 , preferably 14-18 and more preferably 16, stand). Particular preference is given to PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicones, which are commercially available in a 1: 9 mixture with cyclomethicone as DC 3225 C or DC 5225 C, PEG / PPG-4/12 dimethicone, sold under the name Abil B 8852 is available as well as Bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, which is commercially available in a mixture with Cyclomethicone as Abil EM 97 (Goldschmidt), Bis-PEG / PPG-20/20 Dimethicone, under the name Abil B 8832 is available, PEG / PPG-5/3 trisiloxanes (Silsoft 305), and PEG / PPG-20/23 dimethicones (Silsoft 430 and Silsoft 440). Further preferred W / O emulsifiers according to the invention are poly (C ₂ -C ₃ ) alkylene glycol-modified silicones which are hydrophobically modified with C ₄ -C ₁₈ -alkyl groups, particularly preferably cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicones (previously: Cetyl dimethicone copolyol, available as Abil EM 90 or in a mixture of polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone and hexyl laurate under the trade name Abil WE 09), furthermore alkyl methicone copolyols and alkyl dimethicone ethoxy glucosides. The compositions according to the invention which are formulated as an emulsion, in particular as an oil-in-water emulsion or a polyol-in-water emulsion, preferably comprise at least one nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB value of more than 7 These are emulsifiers which are generally known to the person skilled in the art and are listed, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd edition, 1979, Volume 8, pages 913-916. For ethoxylated products, the HLB value is calculated according to the formula HLB = (100-L): 5, where L is the weight fraction of the lipophilic groups, that is the fatty alkyl or fatty acyl groups, in the ethylene oxide adducts, expressed in weight percent. In selecting nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers which are suitable according to the invention, it is particularly preferable to use a mixture of nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers in order to optimally adjust the stability of the stick compositions according to the invention. The individual emulsifier components thereby deliver a proportion to the total HLB value or average HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture in accordance with their proportion of the total amount of the oil-in-water emulsifiers. According to the invention, the mean HLB value of the oil-in-water emulsifier mixture is 10-19, preferably 12-18 and particularly preferably 14-17. In order to achieve such average HLB values, preference is given to combining oil-in-water emulsifiers from the HLB value ranges 10-14, 14-16 and optionally 16-19. Of course, the oil-in-water emulsifier mixtures may also contain nonionic emulsifiers with HLB values in the range of> 7-10 and 19-20; Such emulsifier mixtures may also be preferred according to the invention. However, in another preferred embodiment, the skin treatment agents of the invention may also contain only a single oil-in-water emulsifier having an HLB in the range of 10-19. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifiers are selected from ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkanols with an average of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids with an average of 10 100 moles of ethylene oxide per mole, silicone copolyols having ethylene oxide units or with ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units, alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides having 8 to 22 carbon atoms in the alkyl radical and their ethoxylated analogs, ethoxylated sterols, partial esters of polyglycerols having 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7, and mixtures of the above substances. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ alkanols have the formula R ¹ O (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n H, where R ¹ is a linear or branched alkyl and / or alkenyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the middle Number of ethylene oxide units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, Petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures. Adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty alcohols having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty alcohol, are suitable. The ethoxylated C ₈ -C ₂₄ -carboxylic acids have the formula R ¹ (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH, where R ¹ is a linear or branched saturated or unsaturated acyl radical having 8-24 carbon atoms and n, the average number of ethylene oxide Units per molecule, for numbers of 10-100, preferably 10-30 moles of ethylene oxide to 1 mole of caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, cetylic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, arachidic acid, Gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid and brassidic acid and their technical mixtures. Also adducts of 10-100 moles of ethylene oxide with technical fatty acids having 12-18 carbon atoms, such as coconut, palm, palm kernel or tallow fatty acid, are suitable. Particularly preferred are PEG-50 monostearate, PEG-100 monostearate, PEG-50 monooleate, PEG-100 monooleate, PEG-50 monolaurate and PEG-100 monolaurate. Particular preference is given to using the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -alkanols or the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ -carboxylic acids with in each case 10-30 units of ethylene oxide per molecule and mixtures of these substances, in particular ceteth-12, ceteth-20, ceteth-30, steareth- 12, Steareth-20, Steareth-30, Laureth-12 and Beheneth-20. Furthermore, preference is given to using C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides. C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkyl mono- and -oligoglycosides are known, commercially available surfactants and emulsifiers. They are prepared in particular by reacting glucose or oligosaccharides with primary alcohols having 8-22 carbon atoms. With regard to the glycoside radical, both monoglycosides in which a cyclic sugar radical is glycosidically linked to the fatty alcohol and oligomeric glycosides having a degree of oligomerization of up to about 8, preferably 1-2, are suitable. The degree of oligomerization is a statistical mean, which is based on a homolog distribution typical for such technical products. Products which are obtainable under the trademark Plantacare ^®, a glucosidically bonded C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkyl group containing at an oligoglucoside whose average degree of oligomerization at 1-2, particularly at 1.1-1.4, is located. Particularly preferred C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl mono- and oligoglycosides are selected from octyl glucoside, decyl glucoside, lauryl glucoside, palmityl glucoside, isostearyl glucoside, stearyl glucoside, arachidyl glucoside and behenyl glucoside and mixtures thereof. The glucamine-derived acylglucamides are also suitable as non-ionic oil-in-water emulsifiers. Ethoxylated sterols, in particular ethoxylated soy sterols, are also suitable oil-in-water emulsifiers according to the invention. The degree of ethoxylation must be greater than 5, preferably at least 10, in order to have an HLB value greater than 7. Suitable commercial products are, for. PEG-10 Soy Sterol, PEG-16 Soy Sterol and PEG-25 Soy Sterol. Furthermore, preferably partial esters of polyglycerols with 2 to 10 glycerol units and with 1 to 4 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters esterified used, provided that they have an HLB value of more than 7. Particularly preferred are Diglycerinmonocaprylat, Diglycerinmonocaprat, diglycerol, Triglycerinmonocaprylat, Triglycerinmonocaprat, triglycerol, Tetraglycerinmonocaprylat, Tetraglycerinmonocaprat, Tetraglycerinmonolaurat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprylat, Pentaglycerinmonocaprat, Pentaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprylat, Hexaglycerinmonocaprat, Hexaglycerinmonolaurat, Hexaglycerinmonomyristat, Hexaglycerinmonostearat, Decaglycerinmonocaprylat, Decaglycerinmonocaprat, decaglyceryl monolaurate, decaglyceryl monomyristate, Decaglycerinmonoisostearat, decaglycerol monostearate, Decaglycerinmonooleat , Decaglycerinmonohydroxystearat, Decaglycerindicaprylat, Decaglycerindicaprat, Decaglycerindilaurat, Decaglycerindimyristat, Decaglycerindiisostearat, Decaglycerindistearat, Decaglycerindioleat, Decaglycerindihydroxystearat, Decaglycerintricaprylat, Decaglycerintricaprat, Decaglycerintrilaurat, Decaglycerintrimyristat, Decaglycerintriisostearat, Decaglycerintristearat, Decaglycer intrioleate and decaglycerol trihydroxystearate. Particularly preferred skin treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that the nonionic oil-in-water emulsifier in a total amount of 0.5-10 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-4 wt .-% and exceptionally preferably 1.5-3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as an emulsion or stick, preferably further comprise at least one nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, selected from the mono- and diesters of Ethylene glycol and the mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters of pentaerythritol with linear saturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 carbon atoms, which may be hydroxylated, and mixtures thereof, as consistency regulator and / or water binder. According to the invention, the mono- and diesters are preferred. C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ fatty acid radicals preferred according to the invention are selected from lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, arachic acid and behenic acid re-radicals; particularly preferred is the stearic acid residue. Nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers particularly preferred according to the invention having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 are selected from pentaerythrityl monostearate, pentaerythrityl distearate, pentaerythrityl tristearate, pentaerythrityl tetrastearate, ethylene glycol monostearate, ethylene glycol distearate and mixtures thereof. According to the invention, particularly preferred water-in-oil emulsifiers having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than / equal to 7.0, for example as commercial products Cutina ^® PES (INCI: Pentaerythrityl distearate), Cutina ^® AGS (INCI: Glycol Distearate) or Cutina ^® EGMS (INCI: glycol stearate) available. These commercial products are already mixtures of mono- and diesters (in the pentaerythrityl esters are also tri- and tetraester contained). According to the invention it may be preferable to use only a single water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina ^® PES is understood to mean a technical mixture. In addition to the stated water-in-oil emulsifiers based on the ethylene glycol or pentaerythrityl esters, in a preferred embodiment, at least one further nonionic water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7, 0 should be included, the proportion of the total weight of nonionic water-in-oil emulsifiers with an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0, but preferably should not be greater than 80%. In a particularly preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain the at least one additional water-in-oil emulsifier having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 only in a proportion by weight of not more than 10% or are free of additional water -in-oil emulsifiers. Some of these additional suitable emulsifiers are, for example, in Kirk-Othmer, "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology", 3rd Ed., 1979, Vol. 8, page 913 , listed. For ethoxylated adducts, the HLB value, as already mentioned, can also be calculated. Suitable water-in-oil emulsifiers are preferably: linear saturated alkanols having 12-30 carbon atoms, in particular 16-22 carbon atoms, in particular cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl and lanolin or mixtures of these alcohols, as in the industrial hydrogenation of vegetable and animal fatty acids are obtainable, esters and in particular partial esters of a polyol having 3-6 C-atoms and linear saturated and unsaturated fatty acids having 12-30, in particular 14-22 C-atoms, which may be hydroxylated. Such esters or partial esters are, for. The mono- and diesters of glycerol or the monoesters of propylene glycol with linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, especially those with palmitic and stearic acid, the sorbitan mono-, di- or triesters linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated, in particular those of myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or mixtures of these fatty acids and the methyl glucose mono- and diesters of linear saturated and unsaturated C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids which may be hydroxylated; Sterols, ie steroids, which carry a hydroxyl group at the C3 atom of the steroid skeleton and both from animal tissue (zoosterols, eg cholesterol, lanosterol) as well as from plants (phytosterols, eg ergosterol, stigmasterol, sitosterol) and from fungi and yeasts (mycosterols) which may be low ethoxylated (1-5 EO); Alkanols and carboxylic acids each having 8-24 C atoms, in particular having 16-22 C atoms, in the alkyl group and 1-4 ethylene oxide units per molecule having an HLB value greater than 1.0 and less than or equal to 7.0 exhibit; Glycerol monoethers of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols of a chain length of 8-30, in particular 12-18 carbon atoms; Partial ester of polyglycerols having n = 2 to 10 glycerol units and esterified with 1 to 5 saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally hydroxylated C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty acid residues, if they have an HLB value of 7 or less, and mixtures of aforementioned substances. According to the invention, it may be preferable to use only a single additional water-in-oil emulsifier. In another preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise mixtures, in particular technical mixtures, of at least two additional water-in-oil emulsifiers. For example, a commercial product such as Cutina GMS ^® is understood to be a technical mixture, which is a mixture of glyceryl monostearate and glyceryl distearate. Particularly advantageous usable zusätzli che water-in-oil emulsifiers are stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, glyceryl monostearate, particularly in the form of the commercial products Cutina ^® GMS and Cutina ^® MD (ex Cognis), glyceryl Glycerylmonocaprinat, glyceryl monocaprylate, glyceryl monolaurate, glyceryl monomyristate, glyceryl monopalmitate, Glycerylmonohydroxystearat, glyceryl monooleate, Glycerylmonolanolat, Glyceryldimyristat, Glyceryldipalmitat, glyceryl dioleate, propylene glycol monostearate, propylene glycol monolaurate, sorbitan monocaprylate, sorbitan monolaurate, sorbitan monomyristate, sorbitan monopalmitate, sorbitan monostearate, Sorbitansesquistearat, sorbitan distearate, sorbitan dioleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sucrose distearate, arachidyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, polyethylene glycol (2) stearyl ether (steareth-2), steareth -5, oleth-2, diglycerol monostearate, diglycerol monoisostearate, diglycerol monooleate, diglycerol dihydroxystearate, diglycerol distearate, diglycerol dioleate, triglycerol distearate, tetraglyce rinmonostearate, tetraglycerol distearate, tetraglycerol tristearate, decaglycerol pentastearate, decaglycerin pentahydroxystearate, decaglycerin pentaisostearate, decaglycerol pentaoleate, soy sterol, PEG-1 soy sterol, PEG-5 soy sterol, PEG-2 monolaurate and PEG-2 monostearate. Particularly preferred skin-treatment agents according to the invention are characterized in that at least one water-in-oil emulsifier is present in a total amount of 0.1-15% by weight, preferably 0.5-8.0% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-5% by weight. 4 wt .-%, based on the total composition, are included. Furthermore, amounts of 2-3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, according to the invention may also be extremely preferred.
• l) Emulsion stabilizers These can further support the process of emulsification (see emulsifiers) and in this way further improve the stability and durability of the product.
• m) depilatories and agents with hair growth inhibiting effect. These serve the preferably selective removal of body hair or the prevention of regrowth of removed, for example shaved or epilated, hair. Preferred substances which inhibit hair growth are, in particular, selected from eflornithine, active ingredient combinations of soy protein hydrolyzate, urea, menthol, salicylic acid and extracts of hypericum perforatum, hamamelis virginiana, arnica montana and the bark of salix alba, as used for example and preferably in the raw material Pilinhib ^® Veg IS 9109 from Laboratoires Sérobiologiques with the INCI declaration "Propylene Glycol, Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hypericum Perforatum Extract, Hamamelis Virginiana Extract, Arnica Montana Flower Extract, Urea, Salix Alba Bark Extract, Menthol, Salicylic Acid", continues to contain drug combinations from extracts of Epilobium angustifolium, the seeds of Cucurbita pepo (pumpkin, zucchini) and the fruits of Serenoa serrulata, as for example and preferred in the raw materials ARP 100 from Greentech SA / Rahn with the INCI Declaration "Water, Alcohol, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Extract, Cucur Bita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract "and ARP 100 Huileux (ex Greentech, INCI: Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride, Serenoa Serrulata Fruit Extract, Epilobium Angustifolium Flower / Leaf / Stem Extract, Cucurbita Pepo (Pumpkin) Seed Extract), are still included Active ingredient combinations of xylitol and extracts of Citrus Medica Limonum (lemon) Fruit, Carica papaya (papaya) and olive leaves, as for example and preferably in the raw material Xyleine of Impag / Seporga with the INCI declaration "Xylitol and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Fruit Extract and Carica Papaya (Papaya) Fruit Extract and Olea europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract "also contain drug combinations from Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya and Thuya Occidentalis, as exemplified and preferred in the Plantafluid Complex AH raw material Plantapharm with the INCI Declaration "Aqua, Propylene Glycol, Humulus Lupulus, Viscum Album, Salvia Officinalis, Carica Papaya, Thuya Occi dentalis "are included, as well as extracts of Larrea divaricata, as for example and preferably in the raw material Capislow of Sederma, which contains lecithin vesicles with a hydroglycolic extract of Larrea divaricata contained. Further preferred hair growth inhibiting active substances are selected from substances which inhibit the protein tyrosine kinase, in particular from lavendustin A, erbstatin, tyrphostin, piceatannol, 4-hydroxybenxylidenmalononitrile, 3,5-di-tert-butyl-4-hydroxybenzylidenemalononitrile, α- Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4,5-trihydroxy) cinnamonitrile, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy ) thiocinnamide, 2-amino-4- (4'-hydroxyphenyl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (3,4,5'-trihydroxyphenyl) -1,1 , 3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 2-amino-4- (1H-alphaindol-5-yl) -1,1,3-tricyanobuta-1,3-diene, 4-hydroxy-3-methoxy-5 - (benzothiazolylthiomethyl) benzylidenecyanoacetamide, 4-amino-N- (2,5-dihydroxybenzyl) methyl benzoate, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -cinnamonitrile, 4- (3-chloroanilino) -6,7-dimethoxyquinazoline, α -Cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N-benzylcinnamide, (-) - RN- (α-methylbenzyl) -3,4-dihydroxybenzylidenecyanoacetamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (3 phenylpropyl) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydrox y) -N-phenylcinnamide, α-cyano - (+) - (S) -N- (alpha-phenethyl) - (3,4-dihydroxy) cinnamide, α-cyano- (3,4-dihydroxy) -N- (phenylbutyl) cinnamide, herbimycin A, thiazolidinedione, phenazocine, 2,3-dihydro-2-thioxo-1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids, 2,2'-dithiobis (1H-indole-3-alkanoic acids), sulfonylbenzoylnitrostyrene, methyl caffeate , HNMPA (AM) ₃ (tris-acetoxymethyl hydroxy-2-naphthalenylmethylphosphonic acid) and N-acetyl-Asp-Tyr- (2-malonyl) -Val-Pro-Met-Leu-NH ₂ . Further preferred hair growth inhibiting agents are selected from those in WO 2006/130330 A2 disclosed substances, namely agonists of the farnesoid X receptor, preferably selected from bile acids, in particular lithocholic acid, cholic acid, deoxycholic acid, chenodeoxycholic acid, ursodeoxycholic acid and 6-alpha-ethylchenodeoxycholic acid, furthermore from farnesoids, in particular farnesol (3,7,11-trimethyl-2 , 6,10-dodecatrien-1-ol), farnesal, farnesyl acetate, 3,7,11-trimethyl-2,6,10-dodecatriene-1-carboxylic acid, methyl farnesyl ether, methyl farnesoate, ethyl farnesyl ether, ethyl farnesoate, furthermore from 7-methyl- Methyl 9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoate (juvenile hormone III), 7-methyl-9- (3,3-dimethyloxivanyl) -3-methyl-2,6-nonadienoic acid, 3 alpha, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-ethyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6-alpha-propyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, 7-alpha-dihydroxy-6- alpha-allyl-5p-cholan-24-acid, N- (2,2,2-trifluoroethyl) -N- [4- [2,2,2-trifluoro-1-hydroxy-1- (trifluoromethyl) -ethyl] phenyl] -benzenesulfonanilide, 3- [2- [2-chloro-4- [3- (2,6-dichlorophenyl ) -5- (1-methylethyl) -4-isoxazolyl] methoxy] phenylethenyl] benzoic acid, [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4-hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester, [2- [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl) -4- hydroxyphenyl] ethylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetraethyl ester and [3,5-bis (1,1-dimethylethyl-4-hydroxyphenyl] ethenylidene] bisphosphonic acid tetrakis (1-methylethyl) ester Preferred compositions of the invention contain at least one hair growth inhibiting substance in a total amount of 0.0001 -5 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-2 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, and most preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the weight of active substance the hair growth inhibiting agent / s and the total weight of the composition according to the invention.
• n) Moisturizers These can contribute to the maintenance or restoration of skin moisture and counteract the drying out of the skin. In addition to the emollients mentioned above, water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanols with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or water-soluble polyethylene glycols with 3-20 ethylene oxide units and mixtures thereof are suitable for this purpose. Preferably, these components are selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, glycerol, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2- Pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and Mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Suitable water-soluble polyethylene glycols are selected from PEG-3, PEG-4, PEG-6, PEG-7, PEG-8, PEG-9, PEG-10, PEG-12, PEG-14, PEG-16, PEG-18 and PEG-20 and mixtures thereof, with PEG-3 to PEG-8 being preferred. Also sugars and certain sugar derivatives such as fucose, rhamnose, fructose, glucose, maltose, maltitol, mannitol, inositol, sucrose, trehalose and xylose are suitable according to the invention. Preferred skin-treating agents according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units is selected from 1,2-propylene glycol, 2- Methyl 1,3-propanediol, glycerin, butylene glycols such as 1,2-butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol and 1,4-butylene glycol, pentylene glycols such as 1,2-pentanediol and 1,5-pentanediol, hexanediols such as 1,6-butanediol Hexanediol, hexanetriols such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol, 1,2-octanediol, 1,8-octanediol, dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, diglycerol, triglycerol, erythritol, sorbitol and mixtures of the aforementioned substances. Particularly preferred skin treatment compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one water-soluble polyhydric C ₂ -C ₉ -alkanol with 2-6 hydroxyl groups and / or at least one water-soluble polyethylene glycol with 3-20 ethylene oxide units in total in amounts of 3-30% by weight. %, preferably 8-25 wt .-%, particularly preferably 10-18 wt .-%, each based on the total composition is included.
• o) Film Formers These are capable of producing a protective, stabilizing film on surfaces, preferably skin, hair or nails. With regard to the agents according to the invention, this film preferably has a moisture-storing effect. Preferred moisture-film formers are selected from polysaccharides which contain at least one deoxy-block, particularly preferably from the commercial products Fucogel ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-1) from Solabia, Rhamnosoft ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2) from Solabia, Fucogenol ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-3) of Solabia and Glycofilm ^® (INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-4) of Solabia, furthermore mixtures of the aforementioned polysaccharides containing at least one deoxy sugar building block, for example the mixture of biosaccharides Gum-2 and biosaccharides Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia, glycosaminoglycans, more preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate, chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.
• p) Dyes These are added to cosmetic products to produce a product dyeing,
• q) Preservatives These are added to cosmetic products to protect them from the harmful effects of microorganisms (bacteria, fungi, yeasts) and thus to prevent their spoilage. Many preservatives inevitably have deodorizing properties, as they also have antimicrobial effects against odor causing bacteria, so that some substances belong to both groups. Benzoic acid and its derivatives (for example propyl, phenyl and butyl benzoate, ammonium, sodium, potassium and magnesium benzoate), propionic acid and derivatives thereof (for example ammonium, sodium and potassium) are particularly suitable as preservatives for cosmetics. , Potassium and magnesium propionate), salicylic acid and its derivatives (eg sodium, potassium and magnesium salicylate), 4-hydroxybenzoic acid and its esters and alkali metal salts (eg methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl). , Butyl, isobutyl, isodecyl, phenyl, phenoxyethyl and benzylparaben, hexamidineparaben and -diparaben, sodium and potassiumparaben, sodium and potassium methylparaben, potassiumbutylparaben, sodium and potassiumpropylparaben), alcohols and their salts (eg, ethanol, propanol , Isopropanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenol, potassium phenolate, phen oxyethanol, phenoxyisopropanol, o-phenylphenol), guaiacol and its derivatives, chlorhexidine and its derivatives (eg, chlorhexidine diacetate, digluconate, and dihydrochloride), hydantoin and its derivatives (e.g., DEDM and DMDM hydantoin, DEDM Hydantoindilaurate), urea and urea derivatives (eg diazolidinyl urea, imidazolidinyl urea), ferulic acid and its derivatives (eg ethyl ferulate), sorbic acid and its derivatives (eg isopropyl sorbate, TEA sorbate, sodium, potassium, and magnesium sorbate), isothiazole and oxazole derivatives (e.g., methylisothiazolinone, methylchloroisothiazolinone, dimethyloxazolidine), quaternary ammonium compounds (e.g., Polyquaternium-42, Quaternium-8, Quaternium-14, Quaternium-15), carbamates (e.g. Iodopropanol butylcarbamate), formaldehyde and sodium formate, glutaraldehyde, glyoxal, hexamidine, dehydroacetic acid, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol, isopropylcresol, methyldibromo-glutaronitrile, polyaminopropyl-biguanide, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, sodium phenol sulfonate, triclocarban, triclosan, zinc pyrithione and various peptide antibiotics (e.g. Nisin). Preservatives preferred according to the invention are phenoxyethanol, the esters of 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, in particular methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl and isobutylparaben and iodopropynyl butylcarbamate. The amount of preservatives in the preferred compositions of the present invention is 0.001-10 wt.%, Preferably 0.01-5 wt.%, And more preferably 0.1-3 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the composition.
• r) Corrosion inhibitors These can serve, for example, to prevent the corrosion of the packaging, for example of a cosmetic product, or else the corrosion of parts which otherwise come into contact with the agent.
• s) Skin-Cooling Active Ingredients Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention furthermore preferably contain at least one skin-cooling active ingredient. Skin-cooling active ingredients suitable according to the invention are, for example, menthol, isopulegol and menthol derivatives, eg. Menthyl lactate, menthyl glycolate, menthyl pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, menthyl methyl ether, menthoxypropanediol, menthone glycerol acetal (9-methyl-6- (1-methylethyl) -1,4-dioxaspiro (4.5) decane-2-methanol), monomethyl succinate and 2-hydroxymethyl-3,5 , 5-trimethylcyclohexanol. Preferred skin-cooling active ingredients are menthol, isopulegol, menthyl lactate, menthoxypropanediol and menthylpyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, and mixtures of these substances, in particular mixtures of menthol and menthyl lactate, menthol, menthol glycolate and menthyl lactate, menthol and menthoxypropanediol or menthol and isopulegol. It is particularly preferred according to the invention for at least one skin-cooling active substance to be present in a total amount of 0.01-1% by weight, more preferably 0.02-0.5% by weight and most preferably 0.05-0.2% by weight. %, in each case based on the total weight of the composition.
• t) pH regulator / buffer substances These can be used, for example, in cosmetics to adjust or stabilize a desired pH.
• u) Surfactants / Washing-Active Substances These are surface-active compounds which serve cleaning purposes or else the better washability of the agents according to the invention.
• v) propellant gases These are gaseous substances with which the cosmetic compositions according to the invention can be placed under pressure in pressure-resistant containers in order to produce the contents when pressure is relieved. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention, which are formulated as a propellant-driven aerosol, contain at least one propellant. Preferred propellants (propellants) are propane, propene, n-butane, isobutane, isobutene, n-pentane, pentene, isopentane, isopentene, methane, ethane, dimethyl ether, nitrogen, air, oxygen, nitrous oxide, 1,1,1,3-tetrafluoroethane, heptafluoro-n-propane, perfluoroethane, monochlorodifluoromethane, 1,1-difluoroethane, both individually and in combination. Also hydrophilic propellants, such. As carbon dioxide, can be used advantageously in the context of the present invention, when the proportion of hydrophilic gases is selected low and lipophilic propellant gas (eg., Propane / butane) is present in excess. Particularly preferred are propane, n-butane, isobutane and mixtures of these propellants. It has been found that the use of n-butane as the only propellant gas according to the invention can be particularly preferred. The amount of blowing agent is preferably 20-80 wt .-%, more preferably 30-70 wt .-% and most preferably 40-50 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the preparation consisting of the composition of the invention and the blowing agent
• w) opacifiers These may be added preferably to translucent or translucent products to make them more impermeable to visible light or near-infrared radiation. This may be useful for protecting the photocatalytic agent during storage in transparent or translucent containers, where appropriate; the layer thickness later applied to the skin is so low that the addition of a clouding agent does not affect the effectiveness of the photocatalytic agent.
• x) UV absorbers / light filter substances They are able to filter certain UV rays and can thus protect the skin, for example, from premature light-induced aging as well as from sunburn. UV absorbers can also be used in small quantities as product protection.
• y) Denaturants These are added to cosmetics containing ethanol to render them inedible.
• z) Viscosity regulators These are capable of increasing or decreasing the viscosity of a product.

The aforementioned Ingredients can according to others preferred embodiments as the sole additive or in any combination in the inventive compositions be included.

The (preferably modified) metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, is in the agent according to the invention in a total amount of preferably 0.000001 to 25% by weight, especially preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, based on the total agent. The lower limit for the (preferably modified) metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, may also be 0.00001 wt%, 0.00005 wt%, 0.0001 wt%, 0.0005 Wt .-%, 0.001 wt .-% or 0.005 wt .-%, based on the total Medium. The upper limit for the (preferably modified) metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, can also be at 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight, 5% by weight, 1% by weight, 0.5% by weight, 0.1% by weight, 0.05% by weight, 0.01% by weight, 0.005% by weight, 0.001% by weight, 0.0005% by weight, 0.0001 wt%, 0.00005 wt%, 0.00001 wt% or 0.000005 wt% relative to the entire remedy.

The in the agent according to the invention contained, preferably modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, may advantageously have a particle size in the range between 2 to 600 nm, ie z. B. 3 to 150 nm or z. B. 4 to 100 nm or z. B. 5 to 75 nm or z. B. 10 to 30 nm or z. B. 200 to 400 nm. The particle size of preferably Although modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, may preferably in the range of 100-500 nm, advantageously 200-400 nm. It may also be preferred that the particle size is very small, e.g. in the Range of 2-150 nm, preferably 3-100 nm, advantageously 4-80 nm or e.g. 5-50 nm or e.g. 8-30 nm or e.g. 10-20 nm. The particle size can e.g. advantageously at values such as 5 nm, 10 nm, 15 nm, 20 nm, 25 nm, 30 nm, 35 nm, 40 nm, 45 nm, 50 nm or 60 nm. Especially very small particle sizes below 50 nm, below 40 nm, below 30 nm or below 20 nm may be preferred be.

It may be advantageous in the preparation of the modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, of micronised metal oxide, in particular Titanium dioxide, ie metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, with very small particle size, e.g. between 2 and 150 nm or z.b. between 5 and 100 nm. The particle size can then e.g. advantageously at values such as 5 nm, 10 nm, 15 nm, 20 nm, 25 nm, 30 nm, 35 nm, 40 nm, 45 nm, 50 nm or 60 nm. Such values are preferred.

The BET specific surface area for the preferably modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, is advantageously 50-500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, more preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g, in particular 250 to 300 m ² / g.

The bulk density of the preferably modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, is preferably in the range of 100 to 800 g / l, advantageously from 200 to 600 g / l, especially from 300 to 500 g / l. For example can the bulk density 350 g / l, 400 g / l or 500 g / l.

To a particularly preferred embodiment is the (preferably modified) metal oxide, especially titanium dioxide, to a carbon-modified metal oxide, especially titanium dioxide. It can but also differently modified metal oxides, in particular titanium dioxides, be used, for example, with nitrogen-modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, or e.g. with rhodium and / or platinum ions doped metal oxide, especially titanium dioxide. However, it is particularly preferred according to the invention that it is metal oxide modified with non-metals, in particular Titanium dioxide, acts.

The carbon content of the advantageously carbon-modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, in a preferred embodiment may range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0% by weight, advantageously from 0.3 to 1 , 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-% are. Advantageously, the TiO ₂ content of the carbon-modified titanium dioxide is, for example, more than 95% by weight, 96% by weight, 97% by weight, 98% by weight or 99% by weight, based on the total with carbon modified titanium dioxide.

If the carbon only in a surface layer of the metal oxide particles, in particular titanium dioxide particles, is embedded, so is a preferred embodiment. The modified one Metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, can advantageously additionally nitrogen contain.

If the specific surface of the titanium dioxide, preferably of the modified titanium dioxide, according to BET (BET advantageously determined according to DIN ISO 9277: 2003-05, preferably also simplified according to DIN 66132: 1975-07) preferably 50 to 500 m ² / g, advantageously 100 to 400 m ² / g, in a further advantageous manner 200 to 350 m ² / g, in particular 250 to 300 m ² / g, so is also a preferred embodiment.

The carbon-modified titanium dioxide can be obtained according to a preferred embodiment, for example, by intimately mixing a titanium compound having a specific surface area of preferably at least 50 m ² / g according to BET, with an organic carbon compound and the mixture at a temperature of up to is thermally treated to 350 ° C.

The thereby usable carbonaceous substance can according to a preferred Embodiment one Be carbon compound, which is at least one functional group contains preferably selected from OH, CHO, COOH, NHx, SHx. In particular, it may be in the carbon compound a compound from the group consisting of ethylene glycol, glycerol, succinic acid, pentaerythritol, Carbohydrates, sugar, starch, Alkyl polyglucosides, organoammonium hydroxides or mixtures thereof act. It is also possible, used as the carbonaceous substance soot or activated carbon becomes.

It may also be preferred that the carbonaceous substance, which is advantageously mixed with the titanium compound, after the thermal treatment to the modified titanium dioxide to reach a decomposition temperature of at most 400 ° C, preferably <350 ° C. and particularly preferably <300 ° C.

The Preferably used for the preparation of the modified titanium dioxide Titanium compound, which according to above said preferred embodiment is intimately mixed with an organic carbon compound, may be an amorphous, semi-crystalline or crystalline titanium oxide or hydrous titanium oxide or a titanium hydrate or a titanium oxyhydrate which in turn corresponds to a preferred embodiment.

The thermal treatment of the mixture of the titanium compound and the Carbon compound can according to a preferred embodiment advantageously in a continuously operated calcining unit, preferably a rotary kiln are performed.

The modified titanium dioxide can be, especially in the context of what has been described above, preferably e.g. obtained by reacting a metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide (e.g., having a particle size in the range between 2 to 600 nm or e.g. 3 to 150 nm or or e.g. 4 to 100 nm or e.g. 5 to 75 nm or e.g. 10 to 30 nm or e.g. 200 to 400 nm), such as commercially available available in powder or slurry form, a suspension in a liquid, as preferably water, produces. To the suspension is then advantageously added a carbonaceous substance and it is mixed. The mixing can be supported by the use from ultrasound. The mixing process (e.g., stirring) may preferably be several Hours, preferably 2, 4, 6, 8, 10 or 12 hours or even longer.

Based on the solids of the suspension is the amount of the carbon compound advantageously 1-40% by weight, accordingly the amount of metal compound, in particular titanium compound, preferably 60-99 wt .-%.

After that becomes the liquid removed, for example by filtration, evaporation in vacuo or Decant, and the residue is preferably dried (e.g., preferably at temperatures of 70-200 ° C, advantageously over several Hours, for example at least 12 hours) and then calcined, for example at a temperature of at least 260 ° C, preferably e.g. at 300 ° C, preferably over a period of several hours, preferably 1-4 hours, in particular 3 hours. The calcination can advantageously be in a closed Vessel take place. It may be advantageous that the calcination temperature, e.g. 300 ° C, within one hour is reached (slow heating to 300 ° C).

In this case, a color change of the powder from white to dark brown to beige or slightly yellowish-brownish is preferably observed. Too long a heating leads to inactive, colorless powders. The expert can estimate this with a few routine experiments. The calcination can, for example, advantageously be carried out until, after a color change of the powder from white to dark brown, a further color change to beige or slightly yellow-brownish takes place.

A maximum temperature of 350 ° C should preferably not be exceeded become. Thermal treatment causes decomposition the organic carbon compound on the surface of the Metal compound, in particular titanium compound, so that preferably a modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, arises, which preferably contains 0.005-4 wt .-% carbon.

After the thermal treatment, the product is advantageously deagglomerated by known methods, for example in a pin mill, jet mill or counter-jet mill. The grain fineness to be achieved depends on the grain size of the starting titanium compound. The particle size or specific surface area of the product is only slightly lower, but of the same order of magnitude as that of the educt. The desired grain fineness of the photocatalyst depends on the field of application of the photocatalyst. It is usually in the range as with TiO ₂ pigments, but may also be below or above.

The Particle size of the modified Metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, may preferably be in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 100-500 nm, advantageously 200-400 nm. It may also be preferred that the particle size is very high is small, e.g. in the range of 2-150 nm, preferably 3-100 nm, advantageously 4-80 nm or e.g. 5-50 nm or e.g. 8-30 nm or e.g. 10-20 nm.

It may be advantageous in the preparation of the modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, of micronised metal oxide, in particular micronized titanium dioxide to go out, so of metal oxide, in particular Titanium dioxide, with very small particle size, e.g. between 2 and 150 nm or e.g. between 5 and 100 nm. The particle size can then e.g. advantageously at values such as 5 nm, 10 nm, 15 nm, 20 nm, 25 nm, 30 nm, 35 nm, 40 nm, 45 nm, 50 nm or 60 nm. Such values are preferred.

The BET specific surface area for the preferably modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, is advantageously 50-500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, more preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g, in particular 250 to 300 m ² / g.

The bulk density of the preferably modified metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, is preferably in the range of 100 to 800 g / l, advantageously from 200 to 600 g / l, especially from 300 to 500 g / l. For example can the bulk density 350 g / l, 400 g / l or 500 g / l.

To a preferred embodiment is the (preferably modified) titanium dioxide in the crystal modification Anatas in front.

Under photocatalytically active metal oxide is understood to mean a metal oxide, that absorbs light and converts it into reaction energy, with the the substrate is then reacted.

in the The following are preferred ingredients of the compositions of the invention described in more detail.

Anionic surfactants are preferably contained in the agents according to the invention. As anionic surfactants, for example, those of the sulfonate type and sulfates are used. The surfactants of the sulfonate type are preferably C _9-13 -alkylbenzenesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, ie mixtures of alkene and hydroxyalkanesulfonates and disulfonates, as are obtained, for example, from C _12-18 -monoolefins having terminal or internal double bonds by sulfonation with gaseous sulfur trioxide and subsequent alkaline or acid hydrolysis of the sulfonation products into consideration. Also suitable are alkanesulfonates which are obtained from C _12-18 alkanes, for example by sulfochlorination or sulfoxidation with subsequent hydrolysis or neutralization. Likewise, the esters of α-sulfo fatty acids (ester sulfonates), for example the α-sulfonated methyl esters of hydrogenated coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids are suitable.

Further Suitable anionic surfactants are sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters. Among fatty acid glycerol esters are to understand the mono-, di- and triesters and their mixtures, such as they are produced by suppuration of a monoglycerine with 1 to 3 moles of fatty acid or in the transesterification of triglycerides with 0.3 to 2 moles of glycerol to be obtained. Preferred sulfated fatty acid glycerol esters are included the sulphonated products of saturated fatty acids with 6 to 22 carbon atoms, for example the caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, myristic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid or Behenic acid.

Alk (en) ylsulfates are the alkali metal salts and in particular the sodium salts of the sulfuric monoesters of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohols, for example coconut fatty alcohol, tallow fatty alcohol, lauryl, myristyl, cetyl or stearyl alcohol or the C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ oxo alcohols and those half-esters of secondary alcohols of these chain lengths are preferred. Also preferred are alk (en) ylsulfates of said chain length, which contain a synthetic, produced on a petrochemical basis straight-chain alkyl radical, which have an analogous degradation behavior as the adequate compounds based on oleochemical raw materials. Of washing technology interest, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₂ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates and C ₁₄ -C ₁₅ alkyl sulfates are preferred. 2,3-alkyl sulfates can be obtained as commercial products from Shell Oil Company under the name DAN ^®, are suitable anionic surfactants.

The sulfuric acid monoesters of straight-chain or branched C _7-21 -alcohols ethoxylated with from 1 to 6 mol of ethylene oxide, such as 2-methyl-branched C _9-11- alcohols having on average 3.5 mol of ethylene oxide (EO) or C _12-18 . Fatty alcohols with 1 to 4 EO are suitable. Due to their high foaming behavior, they are preferably used only in relatively small amounts, for example in amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight, in detergents in particular. The agents according to the invention may preferably be free of sulfuric acid monoester.

Another class of anionic surfactants is the class of ether carboxylic acids obtainable by the reaction of fatty alcohol ethoxylates with sodium chloroacetate in the presence of basic catalysts. They have the general formula: R ¹⁰ O- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ -O) _p CH ₂ -COOH with R ¹⁰ = C ₁ -C ₁₈ and p = 0.1 to 20. Ethercarboxylic acids are water hardness insensitive and have excellent surfactant properties ,

suitable anionic surfactants are, for example, the partial esters of Di- or polyhydroxyalkanes, mono- and disaccharides, polyethylene glycols with the EO adducts of maleic anhydride at least monounsaturated carboxylic acids with a chain length from 10 to 25 carbon atoms with an acid number of 10 to 140.

preferred anionic surfactants have, in addition to an unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or aromatic, acyclic or cyclic, optional alkoxylated alkyl radical having 4 to 28, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18, more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms, two or more anionic, in particular two, acid groups, preferably carboxylate, Sulfonate and / or sulfate groups, in particular a carboxylate and a sulfate group. Examples of these compounds are the alpha-sulfofatty acid salts, the acylglutamates, the monoglyceride disulfates and the alkyl ethers Glycerindisulfats and in particular those described below monoesterified sulfosuccinates.

Particularly preferred anionic surfactants are the sulfosuccinates, sulfosuccinamates and sulfosuccinamides, especially sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates, most preferably sulfosuccinates. The sulfosuccinates are the salts of the mono- and di-esters of sulfosuccinic acid HOOCCH (SO ₃ H) CH ₂ COOH, while the sulfosuccinamates are the salts of the monoamides of sulfosuccinic acid and the sulfosuccinamides are the salts of the diamides of sulfosuccinic acid ,

at the salts are preferably alkali metal salts, ammonium salts and mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalze, for example, mono-, Di- or triethanolammonium salts, in particular to lithium, sodium, Potassium or ammonium salts, more preferably sodium or ammonium salts, most preferably Sodium salts.

In the sulfosuccinates, one or both carboxyl groups of the sulfosuccinic acid is preferably with one or two identical or different unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alcohols having 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, in particular 8 to 18 , more preferably 10 to 16, most preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms esterified. Particularly preferred are the esters of unbranched and / or saturated and / or acyclic and / or alkoxylated alcohols, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alcohols and / or unbranched, saturated, with ethylene and / or propylene oxide, preferably ethylene oxide, alk oxylierter fatty alcohols having a degree of alkoxylation of 1 to 20, preferably 1 to 15, in particular 1 to 10, more preferably 1 to 6, most preferably 1 to 4. The monoesters are preferred in the context of the present invention over the diesters. A particularly preferred sulfosuccinate is Sulfobernsteinsäurelaurylpolyglycolester-di-sodium salt (lauryl EO sulfosuccinate, di-sodium salt; INCI Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate), for example, as Tego ^® sulfosuccinate F 30 (Goldschmidt) with a sulfosuccinate of 30 parts by weight % is commercially available.

In form the sulfosuccinamates or sulfosuccinamides or form both carboxyl groups of sulfosuccinic acid preferably with a primary or secondary Amin, one or two identical or different, unbranched or branched, saturated or unsaturated, acyclic or cyclic, optionally alkoxylated alkyl radicals with 4 to 22, preferably 6 to 20, especially 8 to 18, especially preferably 10 to 16, most preferably Bears 12 to 14 carbon atoms, a carboxylic acid amide. Particular preference is given to unbranched and / or saturated and / or Acyclic alkyl radicals, in particular unbranched, saturated fatty alkyl radicals.

Also suitable are, for example, the following sulfosuccinates and sulfosuccinamates designated according to INCI: ammonium dinonyl sulfosuccinates, ammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium dimethicone copolyol sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauramido-MEA sulfosuccinates, diammonium lauryl sulfosuccinates, diammonium oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Diamyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicapryl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dicyclohexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diheptyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dihexyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Diisobutyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Dioctyl Sodium Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocamido Glucoside Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Cocoyl Butyl Gluceth-10 sulfosuccinates, disodium C12-15 pareth sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-5 sulfosuccinates, disodium deceth-6 sulfosuccinates, disodium dihydroxyethyl sulfosuccinyl undecylenates, disodium dimethi Disodium Isostearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearamido MIPA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Isostearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laneth-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauramido PEG-5 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-6 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-9 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Laureth-12 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Lauryl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Myristamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Nonoxynol-10 Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Oleamido MIPA- Sulfosuccinates, disodium oleamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleth-3 sulfosuccinates, disodium oleyl sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium palmitoleeamido PEG-2 sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-4 cocamido MIPA sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-5 lauryl citrate sulfosuccinates, disodium PEG-8 Palm Gl Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallowamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Tallow Sulfosuccinamate, Disodium Tridecyl Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Undecylenamido, Disodium Stearamido MEA Sulfosuccinate, Disodium Stearamido MEA Sulphosuccinates, Disodium Undecylenamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Wheat Germamido MEA Sulfosuccinates, Disodium Wheat Germamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Di-TEA-Oleamido PEG-2 Sulfosuccinates, Ditridecyl Sodium Sulfosuccinates, Sodium Bisglycol Ricinosulfosuccinates, Sodium / MEA Laureth- 2 sulfosuccinates and tetrasodium dicarboxyethyl stearyl sulfosuccinamate. Yet another suitable sulfosuccinamate is disodium C _16-18 alkoxypropylene sulfosuccinamate.

Another suitable class of compounds are anionic surfactant-cation complexes, the cation itself initially having surfactant properties. Examples are transesterification products of LAS acid with amines, amine derivatives containing a C chain with> 2 C atoms, preferably C ₁₂ -C ₁₆ . These can be oxidized, for example, on the nitrogen, ie for example transesterification of LAS acid with amine oxide C _12-14 .

Of the Content of the agent according to the invention to anionic surfactants, preferably to said anionic Surfactants, can vary widely, depending on which Purpose serves the means in question. Thus, an agent according to the invention very big Amounts of anionic surfactant, preferably up to an order of magnitude up to 40, 50 or 60 parts by weight or more. Likewise, an inventive means only contain very small amounts of anionic surfactant, for example less as 15 or 10 wt% or less than 5 wt% or even less. Advantageously, however, anionic surfactants are in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.1 to 40% by weight and in particular from 5 to 30% by weight containing concentrations above 10 wt% and even above 15% by weight find particular preference. After a preferred embodiment contains the agent of the invention anionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.01% by weight, based on the total mean. According to another preferred embodiment can the agent of the invention be free of anionic surfactant.

In addition to the anionic surfactants mentioned, but also independently of these, soaps may be present in the compositions according to the invention. Particularly suitable are saturated fatty acid soaps, such as the salts of lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, hydrogenated erucic acid and behenic acid and, in particular, soap mixtures derived from natural fatty acids, for example coconut, palm kernel or tallow fatty acids. The content of the soap soaps is preferably independent of other anionic surfactants not more than 3% by weight and especially 0.5 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total agent. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention is free of soap.

The anionic surfactants and soaps in the form of their sodium, potassium or ammonium salts and as soluble salts organic bases, such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine. Preferably, they are in the form of their sodium or potassium salts, especially in the form of the sodium salts. Anionic surfactants and Soaps can also be prepared in situ by being spray dried Composition of the anionic surfactant acids and optionally fatty acids are introduced, which then by the alkali carriers in the spray-drying Composition be neutralized.

advantageously, can nonionic surfactants in the inventive compositions also included be both solid and liquid Means. For example, their content may be up to 2 or 3 or 5 wt .-%. It can also larger quantities be contained in nonionic surfactant, for example up to 5 wt .-% or 10% by weight or 15% by weight or 20% by weight, 30% by weight, 40% by weight, 50% by weight or even above out, if appropriate. Meaningful lower limits can at values of 0.01, 0.1, 1, 2, 3 or 4 wt .-% are.

Preferably However, the nonionic surfactants are in larger quantities, ie up to 50 Wt .-%, advantageously from 0.1 to 40 wt .-%, more preferably from 0.5 to 30 and in particular from 2 to 25 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy, included. According to a preferred embodiment contains that inventive agent nonionic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. After another preferred embodiment can the agent of the invention be free of nonionic surfactant.

advantageously, can all known from the prior art nonionic surfactants in the inventive compositions be included. Preferred nonionic surfactants are presented below.

The Skin treatment agent according to the invention can preferably also contain at least one cationic surfactant. Suitable cationic surfactants are, for example, surface-active quaternary Compounds, in particular with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, Iodonium or arsonium group. Through the use of quaternary surface active Compounds with antimicrobial activity may be the agent with a antimicrobial effect be designed or its optionally due to other ingredients already existing antimicrobial Effect can be improved.

Particularly preferred cationic surfactants are the quaternary, partially antimicrobial ammonium compounds (QAV, INCI quaternary ammonium compounds) according to the general formula (R ^I ) (R ^II ) (R ^III ) (R ^IV ) N ⁺ X ^- , in which R ^I to R ^IV identical or different C _1-22 alkyl radicals C _7-28 aralkyl radicals or heterocyclic radicals, where two or in the case of an aromatic inclusion as in pyridine even three radicals together with the nitrogen atom, the heterocycle, for example a pyridinium or Imidazoliniumverbindung , form, represent and X ^{- are} halide ions, sulfate ions, hydroxide ions or similar anions. For optimum antimicrobial activity, preferably at least one of the radicals has a chain length of 8 to 18, in particular 12 to 16, carbon atoms.

QAC are tertiary by implementation Amines with alkylating agents, e.g. Methyl chloride, benzyl chloride, Dimethyl sulfate, dodecyl bromide, but also ethylene oxide produced. The alkylation of tertiary Amines with a long alkyl radical and two methyl groups succeed especially easy, also the quaternization of tertiary amines with two long residues and one methyl group can help with Methyl chloride be carried out under mild conditions. Amines, over three long alkyl radicals or hydroxy-substituted Have alkyl radicals, are less reactive and are preferably quaternized with dimethyl sulfate.

Suitable QAVs are, for example, benzalkonium chloride (N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylbenzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 8001-54-5), benzalkone B (m, p-dichlorobenzyl-dimethyl-C ₁₂ -alkylammonium chloride, CAS No. 58390 -78-6), benzoxonium chloride (benzyldodecyl-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) ammonium chloride), cetrimonium bromide (N-hexadecyl-N, N-trimethyl-ammonium bromide, CAS No. 57-09-0), benzetonium chloride (N , N-dimethyl-N- [2- [2- [p- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenoxy] ethoxy] ethyl] benzylammonium chloride, CAS No. 121-54-0), dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides as described Di-n-decyldimethylammonium chloride (CAS No. 7173-51-5-5), didecyldimethylammonium bromide (CAS No. 2390-68-3), dioctyldimethylammoniumchloric, 1-cetylpyridiniumchloride (CAS No. 123 -03-5) and thiazoline iodide (CAS No. 15764-48-1) and mixtures thereof. Preferred QACs are the benzalkonium chlorides having C ₈ -C ₁₈ -alkyl radicals, in particular C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ -alkyl-benzyl-dimethylammonium chloride. A particularly preferred QAC cocospentaethoxymethylammonium methosulfate (INCI PEG-5 Cocomonium Methosulfate; Rewoquat ^® CPEM).

to Avoidance of possible incompatibilities the antimicrobial cationic surfactants with in the agent according to the invention anionic surfactants contained as possible anionic surfactant and / or possibly as possible little cationic surfactant used or in a particular embodiment the invention entirely dispensed with cationic surfactants.

Further below will be particularly related to conditioning agents and plasticizers further cationic surfactants, including quaternary ammonium compounds described. These too can preferably in the inventive compositions be included.

The Skin treatment agent according to the invention can contain one or more cationic surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, from 0 to 30% by weight, even more advantageously greater than 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight. Suitable minimum values may also be 0.5, 1, 2 or 3 wt .-% are. According to a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains cationic surfactants, preferably in amounts of at least 0.1% by weight, based on the total mean. According to another preferred embodiment can the agent of the invention be free from cationic surfactant.

As well can the skin treatment compositions of the invention also contain at least one amphoteric surfactant. These will continue below in particular in connection with conditioning agents and plasticizers even closer described.

The Skin treatment agent according to the invention can contain one or more amphoteric surfactants, advantageously in amounts, based on the total composition, from 0 to 30% by weight, even more advantageously greater than 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, in particular 0.1 to 5% by weight. According to another preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention free from amphoteric surfactants.

To a particular embodiment can the agents according to the invention contain only very little total surfactant, e.g. can the total amount of surfactant below 20% by weight, 15% by weight, 10% by weight or 5% by weight, advantageously even below 3 wt .-% or below 1 wt .-%, in particular even below 0.5 wt .-% or less than 0.1 wt .-%, wt .-% in each case on the entire remedy. Preferably, however, the total surfactant content is at least 0.01 wt .-%, 0.1 wt% or 1 wt .-%, based on the entire means.

Soluble complexing agents can the agent of the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably 5 Wt .-% to 25 wt .-% and particularly preferably 10 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the agent, with ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid and their sodium salts as soluble Complexing agents are particularly preferred. But it can be advantageous also be provided that the agent according to the invention less than 10 wt .-%, For example, less than 5 wt .-% soluble complexing agent contains. Suitable For example, citrates, SKS-6, citric acid, MGDA (methyl glycine di-acetetic acid), triphosphates, phosphonates, aliphatic dicarboxylic acids (e.g. Adipic, glutaric, succinic acid).

To another preferred embodiment can the agent of the invention free from soluble Be complexing agents.

Further suitable organic complexing agents are dextrins, for example oligomers or polymers of carbohydrates, which can be obtained by partial hydrolysis of starches. The hydrolysis can be carried out by customary, for example acid or enzyme catalyzed processes. Preferably, it is hydrolysis products having average molecular weights in the range of 400 to 500,000 g / mol. In this case, a polysaccharide with a dextrose equivalent (DE) in the range from 0.5 to 40, in particular from 2 to 30 is preferred, DE being a common measure of the reducing action of a polysaccharide compared to dextrose, which has a DE of 100 , is. Usable are both maltodextrins with a DE between 3 and 20 and dry glucose syrups with a DE between 20 and 37 and so-called yellow dextrins and white dextrins with higher molecular weights in the range from 2000 to 30,000 g / mol. A preferred dextrin is in the British Patent Application 94 19 091 described. The oxidized derivatives of such dextrins are their reaction products with oxidizing agents which are capable of oxidizing at least one alcohol function of the saccharide ring to the carboxylic acid function.

Also Oxydisuccinates and other derivatives of disuccinates, preferably Ethylenediamine disuccinate are other suitable cobuilders. there becomes ethylenediamine-N, N'-di-succinate (EDDS) preferably used in the form of its sodium or magnesium salts. Also preferred in this context are glycerol disuccinates and glycerol trisuccinates. Suitable amounts are, for example at 3 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Further useful organic co-complexing agents are, for example, acetylated hydroxy or their salts, which may also be present in lactone form can and which at least 4 carbon atoms and at least one hydroxy group and a maximum of two acid groups contain.

A provide further substance class with co-complexing agent properties the phosphonates. These are in particular hydroxyalkane or aminoalkanephosphonates. Among the hydroxyalkane phosphonates is the 1-hydroxyethane-1,1-diphosphonate (HEDP) of particular importance as a co-complexing agent. It is preferably used as the sodium salt, wherein the disodium salt neutral and the tetrasodium salt alkaline (pH 9). When Aminoalkane phosphonates are preferably ethylenediamine tetramethylene phosphonate (EDTMP), Diethylentriaminpentamethylenphosphonat (DTPMP) and their higher Homologous in question. They are preferably in the form of neutral reacting Sodium salts, e.g. as the hexasodium salt of EDTMP or hepta- and octa-sodium salt of DTPMP. As a builder will be there from the class of phosphonates preferred HEDP used. The aminoalkane phosphonates also have a pronounced Heavy metal binding capacity. Accordingly, it may, especially if the means also bleach be preferred, Aminoalkanphosphonate, in particular DTPMP, to use or mixtures of the phosphonates mentioned.

preferred For example, organic complexing agents are those in the form of theirs Alkali and in particular sodium salts usable polycarboxylic acids, such as citric acid, adipic acid, Succinic acid, Glutaric acid, tartaric acid, sugar acids, aminocarboxylic acids, nitrilotriacetic acid (NTA), if such an application for ecological reasons not is objectionable, as well as mixtures of these. Preferred salts are the salts of polycarboxylic acids like citric acid, adipic acid, Succinic acid, glutaric, Tartaric acid, sugar acids and mixtures of these. The acids themselves can also be used become. The acids In addition to their complexing effect, they typically also the property of an acidifying component and thus serve to set a lower and milder one pH more preferable Inventive skin treatment agent. In particular, citric acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, gluconic acid and to name any mixtures of these.

complexing (INCI chelating agents), also called sequestering agents, are ingredients, to complex and inactivate the metal ions, for example their adverse effects on the stability or appearance of the products, for example, cloudiness, to prevent. On the one hand, it is important to deal with many Ingredients incompatible calcium and magnesium ions of the water hardness to complex. The complexation of the ions of heavy metals such as iron or copper delayed the oxidative decomposition of the finished agents.

Suitable are, for example, the following complexing agents designated according to INCI, for example, in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook closer described: aminotrimethylene phosphonic acid, beta-alanines Diacetic Acid, Calcium Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Cyclodextrin, Cyclohexanediamine Tetraacetic Acid, Diammonium Citrate, Diammonium EDTA, diethylenetriamine pentamethylene phosphonic acid, dipotassium EDTA, disodium azacycloheptane diphosphonate, disodium EDTA, disodium Pyrophosphates, EDTA, etidronic acid, galactic acid, gluconic acid, Glucuronic acid, HEDTA, hydroxypropyl cyclodextrin, methyl cyclodextrin, Pentapotassium triphosphates, pentasodium aminotrimethylene phosphonates, Pentasodium Ethylenediamine Tetramethylene Phosphonate, Pentasodium Pentetates, pentasodium triphosphates, pentetic acid, phytic acid, Potassium Citrate, Potassium EDTMP, Potassium Gluconate, Potassium Polyphosphates, Potassium Trisphosphonomethylamine Oxides, Ribonic Acid, Sodium Chitosan Methylene Phosphonates, Sodium Citrate, Sodium Diethylenetriamine Pentamethylene phosphonates, Sodium dihydroxyethyl glycinates, Sodium EDTMP, Sodium Gluceptate, Sodium Gluconate, Sodium Glycereth-1 Polyphosphates, Sodium Hexametaphosphate, Sodium Metaphosphate, Sodium Metasilicate, Sodium Phytate, Sodium Polydimethylglycinophenolsulfonate, Sodium trimetaphosphate, TEA-EDTA, TEA-polyphosphate, tetrahydroxyethyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrahydroxypropyl Ethylenediamine, Tetrapotassium Etidronates, tetrapotassium pyrophosphates, tetrasodium EDTA, tetrasodium Etidronates, Tetrasodium pyrophosphates, Tripotassium EDTA, Trisodium Dicarboxymethyl Alaninate, Trisodium EDTA, Trisodium HEDTA, Trisodium NTA and trisodium phosphates.

preferred Complexing agents are tertiary Amines, especially tertiary Alkanolamines (amino alcohols). The alkanolamines have both Amino as well as hydroxy and / or ether groups as functional groups. Particularly preferred tertiary Alkanolamines are tri-ethanolamine and tetra-2-hydroxypropyl-ethylenediamine (N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxy-pro-pyl) ethylenediamine). Particularly preferred combinations of tertiary amines with Zinkricinoleat and one or more ethoxylated fatty alcohols as nonionic solubilizers and optionally solvents are described in the prior art.

One particularly preferred complexing agent is the etidronic acid (1-hydroxyethylidene-1,1-diphosphonic acid, 1-hydroxy-ethane-1,1-diphosphonic acid, HEDP, acetophosphonic, INCI Etidronic Acid) including their salts. In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains accordingly as a complexing agent etidronic and / or one or more of their salts.

In a particularly preferred embodiment contains the agent of the invention a complexing agent combination of one or more tertiary amines and one or more further complexing agents, preferably one or more complexing acids or their salts, in particular triethanolamine and / or tetra-2-hydroxypropylethylenediamine and etidronic acid and / or one or more of their salts.

The inventive agent contains preferably at least one complexing agent in a total amount of usually 0 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 10% by weight, more preferably 1 to 8% by weight, most preferably 1.5 to 6 wt .-%, based on the total agent.

It It should be noted at this point that the statement wt .-%, Unless otherwise indicated, each to the entire mean refers.

Of the The content of water in preferred agents according to the invention depends i.a. after that, whether the agent is in liquid or solid form is Therefore, preferably 0 to less than 100 wt .-% and in particular 0.5 to 95 wt .-%, with values of at most 5 wt .-% in particular for solid or non-aqueous liquids find special preference. Not included was this that in individual raw materials, in particular the antiperspirant Aluminum and / or zirconium compounds, Crystal water available.

in the Trap liquid Contains funds the agent of the invention according to a preferred embodiment, water in an amount of more than 20% by weight, advantageously more than 30 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner more than 40 wt .-%, still more preferably more than 50% by weight, in particular 60 to 99% by weight, more preferably 70 to 98% by weight and most preferably 80 to 95% by weight, based on the total mean.

The The upper limit of water may also be 80% by weight, 70% by weight, 60% by weight, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt%, or 10 wt% wt% relative to the entire remedy.

The Lower limit of water may e.g. even at 80 wt%, 70 wt%, 60 Wt%, 50 wt%, 40 wt%, 30 wt%, 20 wt% or 10 wt% relative to the entire remedy.

The mentioned upper and lower limits can of course be meaningfully combined, e.g. to water contents of 60-80 wt.% or 10-30 wt.%, etc.

Lies the agent of the invention in particulate Form, for example, as an anti-acne powder or as a mattifying Powder, so can the particles are post-treated, for example by the Particles of the agent rounded. The rounding can be done in a usual way Run rounder. Preferably, the rounding time is included no longer than 4 minutes, especially not more than 3.5 minutes. rounding of not more than 1.5 minutes or less are particularly preferred. The rounding becomes a further standardization of the grain spectrum achieved, since any resulting agglomerates are crushed.

One Composition according to the invention in particulate form, in particular with nonionic surfactants, perfume oil and / or Foam inhibitors or preparation forms containing these ingredients contain, preferably with amounts up to 20 wt .-% of active substance, in particular with amounts of 2 to 18 wt .-% of active substance, respectively based on the post-treated product, in per se conventional Way, preferably in a mixer or possibly a fluidized bed, post-treated.

Especially may be an inventive agent also with solids, preferably in amounts of up to 15% by weight, especially in amounts of 2 to 15 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the post-treated agent, aftertreated or be powdered.

When Solids for post-treatment can be preferably bicarbonate, Carbonate, zeolite, silicic acid, Citrate, urea or mixtures thereof, in particular in quantities from 2 to 15 wt .-%, based on the total weight of the aftertreated Products, use. The aftertreatment can be advantageously in a mixer and / or by means of mills.

In a further preferred embodiment, the skin treatment agent according to the invention contains at least one UV-absorbing substance. When used in small amounts (up to about 1 wt .-%), the UV-absorbing substance is used to advantageously improve the light resistance of other formulation ingredients (product protection). When used in higher amounts (greater than 1% by weight), the UV-absorbing substance serves to protect the treated skin from the harmful effects of UV radiation. Under UV-absorbing substance are organic and inorganic substances (sunscreen) to understand, which are able to absorb ultraviolet rays and the absorbed energy in the form of longer-wave radiation, eg heat to give back. Compounds having these desired properties include, for example, the non-radiative deactivating compounds and derivatives of benzophenone having substituents in the 2- and / or 4-position. Also suitable are substituted benzotriazoles, phenyl-substituted acrylates (cinnamic acid derivatives) in the 3-position, optionally with cyano groups in the 2-position, salicylates and natural substances such as umbelliferone and the endogenous urocanic acid. The biphenyl and especially stilbene derivatives, commercially available as Tinosorb ^® FD or Tinosorb ^® FR available ex Ciba. 3-benzylidene camphor or 3-benzylidene norcamphor and derivatives thereof, for example 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, may be mentioned as UV-B absorbers; 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 2-octyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate and 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid ester; Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 4-methoxycinnamic acid propyl ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid iso-amyl ester, 2-cyano-3,3-phenylcinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (octocrylene); Esters of salicylic acid, preferably 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, homomenthyl salicylate; Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone; Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzmalonate; Triazine derivatives, such as 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine and Octyl Triazone or Dioctyl Butamido Triazone (Uvasorb HEB ^®); Propane-1,3-diones such as 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione; Ketotricyclo (5.2.1.0) decane derivatives. Also suitable are 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its alkali metal, alkaline earth metal, ammonium, alkylammonium, alkanolammonium and glucammonium salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of benzophenones, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its salts; Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as 4- (2-oxo-3-boryl-nylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid and 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidene) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

As a typical UV-A filter in particular derivatives of benzoylmethane are suitable, such as 1- (4'-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4'-methoxyphenyl) propane-1,3-dione, 4-tert-butyl 4'-methoxydibenzoylmethane (Parsol 1789), 1-phenyl-3- (4'-isopropylphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione and enamine compounds. Of course, the UV-A and UV-B filters can also be used in mixtures. In addition to the soluble substances mentioned, insoluble photoprotective pigments, namely finely dispersed, preferably nano-metal oxides or salts, are also suitable for this purpose. Examples of suitable metal oxides are in particular zinc oxide and titanium dioxide and, in addition, oxides of iron, zirconium, silicon, manganese, aluminum and cerium and mixtures thereof. As salts silicates (talc), barium sulfate or zinc stearate can be used. The oxides and salts are already used in the form of the pigments for skin-care and skin-protecting emulsions and decorative cosmetics. The particles should have an average diameter of less than 100 nm, preferably from 5 to 50 nm and in particular from 15 to 30 nm. They may have a spherical shape, but it is also possible to use those particles which have an ellipsoidal or otherwise deviating shape from the spherical shape. The pigments can also be surface-treated, ie hydrophilized or hydrophobized. Typical examples are coated titanium dioxides, for example Titandioxid T 805 (Degussa) or Eusolex ^® T2000 (Merck). Suitable hydrophobic coating agents are in particular silicones and in particular trialkoxyoctylsilanes or simethicones. Also preferably, micronized zinc oxide can be used. Further suitable UV light protection filters can be found in the relevant prior art.

The at least one UV-absorbing substance is in preferred skin treatment according to the invention agents in a total amount of 0.01 wt .-% to 20 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-10 wt .-%, most preferably 2 wt .-% to 7 wt .-%, included. These amounts do not include the at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention which can also absorb in the UV range.

In a further preferred embodiment are the agents of the invention in liquid Form before. To achieve a liquid Consistency can be the use of both liquid organic solvents, such as also be indicated by water. Preferred agents according to the invention therefore optionally contain at least one solvent.

Solvent, the preferred agents according to the invention can be used are for example from the group monohydric or polyhydric alcohols, Alkanolamines or glycol ethers, provided that they are within the specified concentration range are miscible with water. Preferably, the solvents selected from ethanol, n- or i-propanol, butanols, glycol, propane or Butanediol, glycerol, diglyol, propyl or butyl diglycol, hexylene glycol, Ethylene glycol methyl ether, ethylene glycol ethyl ether, ethylene glycol propyl ether, Ethylene glycol mono-n-butyl ether, diethylene glycol methyl ether, diethylene glycol ethyl ether, Propylene glycol methyl, ethyl or propyl ether, butoxy-propoxy-propanol (BPP), dipropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, di-isopropylene glycol monomethyl, or ethyl ether, methoxy, ethoxy or butoxytriglycol, 1-butoxyethoxy-2-propanol, 3-methyl-3-methoxybutanol, propylene glycol t-butyl ether and mixtures of these Solvent.

Some glycol ethers are available under the trade names Arcosolv ^® (Arco Chemical Co.) or Cellosolve ^®, carbitol ^® or propanol ^® (Union Carbide Corp.); this includes for example ButylCarbitol® ^®, hexyl carbitol ^®, MethylCarbitol® ^®, and carbitol ^® itself, (2- (2-ethoxy) ethoxy) ethanol. The choice of glycol ether can be readily made by one skilled in the art on the basis of its volatility, water solubility, weight percent of the total dispersion, and the like. Pyrrolidone solvents, such as N-alkyl-pyrrolidones, for example N-methyl-2-pyrrolidone or NC ₈ -C ₁₂ -alkyl-pyrrolidone, or 2-pyrrolidone, may also be used. Also preferred as the sole solvent or as part of a solvent mixture are glycerol derivatives, in particular glycerol carbonate.

Among the alcohols which may be preferably used as cosolvents in the present invention are low molecular weight liquid polyethylene glycols, for example, polyethylene glycols having a molecular weight of 200, 300, 400 or 600. Further suitable cosolvents are other alcohols, for example (a) lower alcohols such as ethanol, propanol, isopropanol and n-butanol, (b) ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone, (c) C ₂ -C ₄ polyols such as a diol or a triol, for example ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerol or mixtures thereof. Especially preferred is 1,2-octanediol from the class of diols.

In a preferred embodiment, the agent according to the invention contains one or more solvents from the group comprising C ₁ to C ₄ monoalcohols, C ₂ to C ₆ glycols, C ₃ to C ₁₂ glycol ethers and glycerol, in particular ethanol , The C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers according to the invention contain alkyl or alkenyl groups having less than 10 carbon atoms, preferably up to 8, in particular up to 6, more preferably 1 to 4 and most preferably 2 to 3 carbon atoms.

Preferred C ₁ to C ₄ monohydric alcohols are ethanol, n-propanol, isopropanol and tert-butanol. Preferred C ₂ to C ₆ glycols are ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-propylene glycol, 1,5-pentanediol, neopentyl glycol and 1,6-hexanediol, especially ethylene glycol and 1,2-propylene glycol. Preferred C ₃ - to C ₁₂ glycol ethers are di-, tri-, tetra- and pentaethylene glycol, di-, tri- and tetrapropylene glycol, propylene glycol monotertiary butyl ether and propylene glycol monoethyl ether and the solvents designated according to INCI butoxydiglycol, butoxyethanol, butoxyisopropanol, butoxypropanol, butyloctanol, ethoxydiglycol, Ethoxyethanol, ethyl hexanediol, isobutoxypropanol, isopentyldiol, 3-methoxybutanol, methoxyethanol, methoxyisopropanol and methoxymethylbutanol.

preferred inventive agent contain one or more solvents in a total of usually up to 90% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 30% by weight, in particular 2 to 20% by weight, more preferably 3 to 15% by weight, most preferably 5 to 12 wt .-%, for example, 5.3 or 10.6 wt .-%, each based on the entire remedy.

In a further preferred embodiment contains the agent of the invention at least one viscosity regulator, which preferably acts as a thickener.

The viscosity the agents according to the invention can with usual Standard methods (for example Brookfield viscometer RVD-VII at 20 rpm and 20 ° C, Spindle 3) are measured and is preferably in the range of 10 to 5000 mPas. Preferred liquid to gelatinous Means have viscosities from 20 to 4000 mPas, with values between 40 and 2000 mPas especially are preferred.

suitable Thickeners are inorganic or polymeric organic compounds. It can also mixtures of several thickeners are used.

To counting the inorganic thickeners for example polysilicic acids, Clay minerals such as montmorillonites, zeolites, silicas, aluminum silicates, Phyllosilicates and bentonites.

The Organic thickeners come from the groups of natural Polymers, modified natural Polymers and fully synthetic polymers.

Out naturally derived polymers used as thickeners, are, for example, xanthan gum, agar, carrageenan, gum tragacanth, gum arabic, alginates, pectins, polyoses, guar flour, gellan gum, locust bean gum, Strength, Dextrins, gelatin and casein.

modified Natural products come mainly from the group of modified starches and Celluloses, examples being carboxymethylcellulose and others Cellulose ethers, hydroxyethyl and propylcellulose, highly etherified Methylhydroxyethylcellulose and Kernmehlether called.

A size Group of thickeners, the most widely used in the most diverse Fields of application are the fully synthetic polymers such as Polyacrylic and polymethacrylic compounds which are crosslinked or uncrosslinked and optionally cationically modified, vinyl polymers, polycarboxylic acids, polyethers, activated Polyamide derivatives, castor oil derivatives, Polyimines, polyamides and polyurethanes. Examples of such polymer are acrylic resins, ethyl acrylate-acrylamide copolymers, acrylic ester-methacrylic acid-ester copolymers, Ethyl acrylate-acrylic acid-methacrylic acid copolymers, N-methylolmethacrylamide, maleic anhydride-methyl vinyl ether copolymers, Polyether-polyol copolymers and butadiene-styrene copolymers.

Further suitable thickeners are derivatives of organic acids and their alkoxide adducts, for example aryl polyglycol ethers, carboxylated nonylphenol ethoxylate derivatives, sodium alginate, diglycerol monoisostearate, nonionic ethylene oxide adducts, coconut fatty acid diethanolamide, isododecenylsuccinic anhydride and galactomannan. Thickener from the mentioned classes of substances are commercially available and, for example, under the trade names Acusol ^® -820 (methacrylic acid (stearyl alcohol 20 EO) ester-acrylic acid copolymer, 30% in water, Rohm & Haas), Da-Pral ^® -GT -282-S (alkyl polyglycol ethers, Akzo), DEUTEROL ^® polymer-11 (dicarboxylic acid co-polymer, Schoner GmbH) deuteron ^® -xg (anionic heteropolysaccharide based on β-D-glucose, D-mannose, D-glucuronic acid , Schoner GmbH), -XN deuteron ^® (non-ionic polysaccharide, Schoner GmbH), DICRYLAN ^® -Verdicker-O (ethylene oxide adduct, 50% solution in water / isopropanol, Pfersse Chemie), EMA ^® -81 and EMA ^® - 91 (ethylene-maleic anhydride copolymer, Monsanto), thickener QR-1001 (polyurethane emulsion, 19-21% in water / diglyme, Rohm & Haas), Mirox ^® -AM (anionic acrylic acid-acrylate copolymer dispersion, 25% in water, Stockhausen), SER-AD FX 1100 (hydrophobic urethane polymer, servo Delden), Shellflo ^® -S (high-molecular Po charide stabilized with formaldehyde, Shell), Shellflo XA ^® (xanthan biopolymer, stabilized with formaldehyde, Shell), Kelzan, Keltrol T (Kelco) is.

dyes can optional in the agent according to the invention be used, the amount of one or more dyes so low to choose is that after application of the agent no visible residues remain. Preferably, the agent according to the invention is free of dyes.

The inventive agent may preferably contain one or more antimicrobial agents or preservatives in an amount of usually 0.0001 to 3 wt .-%, preferably from 0.0001 to 2% by weight, in particular from 0.0002 to 1% by weight, more preferably 0.0002 to 0.2 wt%, more preferably 0.0003 to 0.1 wt .-%, contained.

Antimicrobial agents or preservatives are differentiated depending on the antimicrobial spectrum and mechanism of action between bacteriostats and bactericides, fungistatics and fungicides, etc. Important substances from these groups are, for example, benzalkonium chlorides, alkylarylsulfonates, halophenols and phenol mercuriacetate. The terms antimicrobial action and antimicrobial agent have the usual meaning within the scope of the teaching according to the invention. Suitable antimicrobial agents Materials are preferably selected from the groups of alcohols, amines, aldehydes, antimicrobial acids or their salts, carboxylic acid esters, acid amides, phenols, phenol derivatives, diphenyls, diphenylalkanes, urea derivatives, oxygen, nitrogen acetals and formals, benzamidines, isothiazolines, phthalimide derivatives , Pyridine derivatives, antimicrobial surface active compounds, guanidines, antimicrobial amphoteric compounds, quinolines, 1,2-dibromo-2,4-di-cyanobutane, iodo-2-propyl-butyl-carbamate, iodine, iodophores, peroxo compounds, halogen compounds and any mixtures of above.

The antimicrobial agent may be selected from ethanol, n-propanol, i-propanol, 1,3-butanediol, phenoxyethanol, 1,2-propylene glycol, glycerol, undecylenic acid, benzoic acid, salicylic acid, dihydracetic acid, o-phenylphenol, N-propanol. Methylmorpholine-acetonitrile (MMA), 2-benzyl-4-chlorophenol, 2,2'-methylenebis (6-bromo-4-chlorophenol), 4,4'-di-chloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether ( Dichlosan), 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (trichlosan), chlorhexidine, N- (4-chlorophenyl) -N- (3,4-dichlorophenyl) -urea, N, N '- (1, 10-decanediyldi-1-pyridinyl-4-ylidene) bis- (1-octanamine) dihydrochloride, N, N'-bis (4-chlorophenyl) -3,12-di-imino-2,4, 11,13-tetraaza-tetradecandiimidamide, glucoprotamines, antimicrobial quaternary surfactants, guanidines, including the di- and polyguanidine diols, such as 1,6-bis (2-ethylhexyl-biguanido-hexane) -dihydrochloride, 1,6- Di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-N ₁ , N ₁ -methyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -o-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,6-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- [N ₁ , N ₁ '-beta (p-methoxyphenyl) diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ '] -hexanes-dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -alpha-methyl-.beta.-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -hexane dihydrochloride , 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-nitro-phenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -di-n-propyl ether dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -p-chlorophenyl-nigiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -di-n-propyl ether tetrahydrochloride, 1 , 6-di (N ₁ , N ₁ '-2,4-dichlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-p-methylphenyl-nigiguanidido) N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -2,4,5-trichlorophenyldi guanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, 1.6- Di- [N ₁ , N ₁ '-alpha- (p -chlorophenyl) ethyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ '] hexane dihydrochloride, omega: omega-di (N ₁ , N ₁ 'p-ch lorophe-nyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') m-xylenedihydrochloride, 1,12-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ ' -p-chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') dodecane dihydrochloride, 1, 10-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -decane-tetrahydrochloride, 1,12-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-phenyl-diguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') -dodecane tetrahydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-o-chlorophenyldi-guanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-dihydrochloride, 1,6-di- (N ₁ , N ₁ '-o- chlorophenyldiguanido-N ₅ , N ₅ ') hexane-tetrahydrochloride, ethylene-bis (1-tolyl biguanide), ethylene-bis- (p-tolyl biguanide), ethylene-bis- (3,5-dimethylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis - (p-tert-amylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis- (nonylphenylbiguanide), ethylene-bis (phenylbifluoride), ethylene-bis- (N-butylphenylbioguanide), ethylene bis (2,5-diethoxyphenylbiguanide), Ethylene bis (2,4-dimethylphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (o-diphenyl biguanide), ethylene bis (mixed amyl naphthyl biguanide), N-butyl ethylene bis (phenyl biguanide), trimethylene bis (o-tolyl biguanide), N Butyl trimethyl-bis- (phenyl biguanide) and the corresponding salts such as Ace tate, gluconates, hydrochlorides, hydrobromides, citrates, bisulfites, fluorides, polymaleates, N-cocoalkyl sarcosinates, phosphites, hypophosphites, perfluorooctanoates, silicates, sorbates, salicylates, maleates, tartrates, fumarates, ethylenediaminetetraacetates, iminodiacetates, cinnamates, thiocyanates, arginates, pyromellitates, Tetracarboxybutyrates, benzoates, glutarates, monofluorophosphates, perfluoropropionates and any mixtures thereof. Also suitable are halogenated xylene and cresol derivatives, such as p-chloromethacresol or p-chlorometaxylene, as well as natural antimicrobial agents of plant origin (eg from spices or herbs), of animal and microbial origin. Preferably, antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compounds, a natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin and / or a natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin, most preferably at least one natural antimicrobial agent of plant origin from the group comprising caffeine, theobromine and theophylline and essential oils such as eugenol, thymol and geraniol, and / or at least one natural antimicrobial agent of animal origin from the group, comprising enzymes such as protein from milk, lysozyme and lactoperoxidase, and / or at least one antimicrobial surface-active quaternary compound with an ammonium, sulfonium, phosphonium, iodonium - or Arsoniumgruppe, peroxo compounds and chlorine compounds are used. Also substances of microbial origin, so-called bacteriocins, can be used. Glycine, glycine derivatives, formaldehyde, compounds which readily split off formaldehyde, formic acid and peroxides are preferably used.

The suitable as antimicrobial agents quaternary ammonium compounds (QAV) have been described above. Is particularly suitable, for example, benzalkonium chloride, etc. Benzalkonium halides and / or substituted benzalkonium halides are for example commercially available as Barquat ^® ex Lonza, Marquat® ^® ex Mason, Variquat ^® ex Witco / Sherex and Hyamine ^® ex Lonza and as Bardac ^® ex Lonza. Other commercially obtainable antimicrobial agents are N- (3-chloroallyl) hexaminium chloride such as Dowicide and Dowicil ^{® ®} ex Dow, benzethonium chloride such as Hyamine ^® 1622 ex Rohm & Haas, methylbenzethonium as Hyamine ^® 10X ex Rohm & Haas, cetylpyridinium chloride such as Cepacol ex Merrell Labs ,

in der R₁, R₂, R₃ und R₄ unabhängig voneinander für ein Wasserstoffatom, eine Methyl-, Ethyl-, n-Propyl-, Isopropyl-, n-Butyl-, sek.-Butyl-, tert. Butyl- oder C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, stehen, mit der Maßgabe, dass mindestens einer der Reste R₁-R₄ eine C₂-C₆-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppe, die mit 1 bis 5 Hydroxylgruppen oder C₁-C₄-Hydroxyalkyl-Gruppen substituiert ist, darstellt.Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is present to improve skin moisture while omitting comedogenic substances.

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea of the general formula (A) is selected from compounds in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl , Ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ and R ₂ and simultaneously at least one of R ₃ and R _{4 is} a C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups.

Further preferred compositions of the invention are characterized in that the at least one alkyl or Hydroxyalkylsubstituierte urea of the general formula (A) is selected from bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urea according to formula (A), in particular N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, in a total amount of 0.01-50% by weight, preferably 0.1-20% by weight, more preferably 1-10% by weight and most preferably 2-5 Wt .-%, based on the total composition. N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, a crystalline solid at room temperature, for example as the Hydrovance commercial product of the National Starch and Chemical Company as about 45-55% aqueous solution available with a content of urea and ammonium lactate.

In a preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances, as well as mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, Hydroxyproline, isodesmosine, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, taurine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, Sodium decanoyl glutamate, sodium lauroyl glutamate, sodium myristoyl glutamate, sodium cetoyl glutamate and sodium stearoyl glutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

With the aforementioned C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radicals, the amino acids which carry an OH group may also be esterified to this OH group. A preferred example of this according to the invention is hydroxyproline, which is N-acylated and esterified with two, preferably linear, C ₂ -C ₂₂ fatty acid residues, more preferably dipalmitoylhydroxyproline, which is e.g. B. Sepilift DPHP available from the company Seppic.

The physiologically compatible Salts of the invention preferred Active substances, the acid groups contain and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, Zinc and manganese salts. Preferably, the sodium, potassium, magnesium, Aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol with the INCI name Acetyl Citrull Amido Arginine), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val- Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn-Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (e.g., Calmosensine from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His). His) and N-palmitoyl-Pro-Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component of the product Matrixyl 3000 from Sederma The tripeptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ^{2 +} ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogues of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable for the substitution of Gly.The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: Tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, the z. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ .

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides selected from rigine and rigine-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, especially the particularly according to the invention preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, e.g. B. under the name Eyeliss available from Sederma is, but also part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma represents. The Rigin analogues include those in which the four amino acids rearranged and / or in which Rigin substituted a maximum of two amino acids are, for. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably has at least one of the amino acids the sequence is a Pro or Arg, and more preferably this includes Tetrapeptide both Pro and Arg, their order and Position may vary. The substituting amino acids can from every amino acid, which is defined below, can be selected. Especially preferred Rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa, Xbb and Xcc are the same or different amino acids can and where Xaa is selected is made of Gly and the amino acids, which can substitute Gly, Xbb selected is made of Gln and the amino acids, who can substitute Gln, Xcc selected is Pro or Arg and the amino acids that substitute Pro and Arg can.

The preferred amino acids, which can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 mostly charged, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. According to the invention, Rigin analogs are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro prefers.

ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides that contain at least one amino acid with an aliphatic side chain included, for. B. β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile). Farther ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid a side chain with an amino group which at neutral pH (pH 6-7) mostly uncharged, e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-Hydroxyproline, Citrulline and canavanine. Furthermore, ALAMCAT tetrapeptides include at least an amino acid having a side chain with a nitrogen atom predominantly at pH 6 loaded present, z. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid can ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain any amino acid; is preferred but also the fourth amino acid selected from the three aforementioned groups.

Preferred according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, especially preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, sold under the name Matrixyl available from the company Sederma, furthermore N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (The latter two provide serine proteinase inhibitors Inhibition of desquamation). According to the invention preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly, available under the name Biopeptide EL from Sederma, also acetyl-hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala-Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), Acetyl hexapeptide-1 (eg, modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl Hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (e.g. Melanostatine-DM from Vincience), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, z. Peptide 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, hexapeptide-4 (eg Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (eg Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-Trp Methylnorleucin-homophenylalanine (Hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl Hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (e.g. Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptide-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience or seriseline from Lipotec) and hexapeptide-11 (e.g., peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol).

Particularly according to the invention preferred is the combination of N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys and N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, as for example in the raw material Matrixyl 3000 from the company Sederma is available.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk, conchiolin and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, more preferably soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 1200-1800 daltons, preferably in the range of 1400-1700 daltons, e.g. B. under the trade name Ridulisse C ^{® available} from the company Silab, and soy protein hydrolysates having an average molecular weight in the range of 600-1000 Dalton, preferably 800 Dalton, z. As available under the trade name Phytokine ^® from Coletica. with coconut fatty acids N-acylated and / or esterified Soyaproteinhydrolysaten in the form of their alkali metal salts. Coconut fatty acids include predominantly alkanecarboxylic acids having a number of carbon atoms of 8-18, especially caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic and stearic acids. Preferred alkali metal salts are selected from lithium, sodium and potassium salts, the Potassium salts are particularly preferred.

One further, according to the invention especially preferred soy protein hydrolyzate is one that is N-acylated with coconut fatty acids and / or esterified soy protein hydrolyzate in the form of the potassium salt, under the trade name Coccopolipeptide di Soya of the Company Sinerga available is.

Farther preferred according to the invention are keratin hydrolysates, in particular Wollkeratinhydrolysate. One particularly preferred Wollkeratinhydrolysat is under the name Keratec Pep from the company Croda available. Keratec Pep has one smaller molecular weight fraction with an average Molecular weight of 150 daltons and a larger molecular weight fraction with an average molecular weight of 1265 daltons. Further preferred according to the invention are conchiolin hydrolysates, especially those under the names Pearl Protein Extract and Pearl Protein Extract BG from the company Maruzen available are. Conchiolin is a complex protein that comes from the outer epithelium of molluscs, in particular of pearl shells and various types of snails, is generated and by the incorporation of calcium carbonate crystals the very stable shell of these mollusks.

protein can naturally also monomers amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually not defined.

Also preferred is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon ^® (Cognis), Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^{® ®} or Crotein (Croda).

One further preferred according to the invention Active substance whose action in the presence of the invention used photocatalytically active metal oxide, is the peptide derivative L-Glutamylaminoethyl-indole (available z. Under the trade name Glistin exsymol).

Also preferred according to the invention are cationized protein hydrolysates. Particularly preferred are cationic protein hydrolysates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives used in the present invention, some of them are listed under the INCI names in "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook," (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association 1101 17th Street, NW, suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment are the polymers of the amino acids selected from DNA repair enzymes.

According to the invention preferred DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter further abbreviated to "T4N5". These Both enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes known. By DNA repair is by definition the cleavage or removal of UV-induced Pyrimidindimeren from the DNA to understand.

photolyase is the short name for Deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient Photolyase is derived from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine Microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is in technical In the meantime, relevant quantities have been extracted from E. coli. photolyase is dependent on light for activation.

The Enzyme T4 Endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and heard to the phosphodiesterases, which hydrolyze the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond columns. T4N5 is also active without the influence of light.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosome ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. Available under the name Ultrasome ^™ from AGI Dermatics, USA.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one of the commercial products Photosomes ^™ or Ultrasomes ^™ in total amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and particularly preferably 1.0 -4.0 wt .-%, based on the total composition of the invention.

Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they comprise at least one monomer, oligomer or polymer of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances in total amounts of 0.0000001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001-5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-1-2-3 wt .-%, each based on the active substance content in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids are linked by phosphoric acid diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), Pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic Binding to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, especially CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (Uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).

One particularly according to the invention the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one DNA oligonucleotide and / or one RNA oligonucleotide in total amounts of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds of the invention are naturally occurring compounds having the atomic group R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. According to the invention preferred betaine are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^-) carnitine and (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^-), each with Me = methyl and X = C-C single bond (in Case of betaine) or X = -CHOH-CH ₂ - (in the case of carnitine).

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one natural one Betaine compound in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one vitamin, provitamin or one as a vitamin precursor designated compound from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. Particularly preferred vitamin A components according to the invention are vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol, and also esters thereof, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, they contain at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin group A or at least one ester thereof in total amounts of 0.001-2 Wt .-%, preferably 0.05-0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]-pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Zusammensetzungen bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0005 bis 0,1-1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die gesamte erfindungsgemäße Zusammensetzung, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugte Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung werden an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (VIT-I) eingesetzt.
  

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , trivial name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , common name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) -benzo [g] -pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0005 to 0.1-1% by weight, based on the total composition according to the invention.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Preferred derivatives of panthenol according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (VIT-I) are used instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol.
  

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Vitamin B₆-Komponente in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S,6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Biotin und den Biotinestern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Folsäure (Vitamin B₉, Vitamin B_c). Internationaler Freiname für N-[4-(2-Amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino)-benzoyl]-L-glutaminsäure (N-Pteroyl-L-glutaminsäure, PteGlu). Folgt wird synonym zu Pteroylglutamat gebraucht, Folate ist der Sammelbegriff für alle Folsäure-wirksamen Verbindungen und bezeichnet eine Substanzklasse, die einen mit 4-Aminobenzoesäure und L-Glutaminsäure verbundenen Pteridin-Ring enthält. Folsäure ist ein Wachstumsfaktor für verschiedene Mikroorganismen und eine Verbindung mit Vitamincharakter, die in der Natur meist als Polyglutamat und in reduzierter Form (7,8-Dihydrofolsäure, H₂Folat, DHF; Tetrahydrofolsäure, H₄Folat, THF; 5'-Methyl-Tetrahydrofolsäure, CH₃-H₄Folat, MeTHF) vorkommt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Folsäure, Folaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01 bis 0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.
• – Orotsäure (Vitamin B₁₃, 1,2,3,6-Tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidin-carbonsäure, Uracil-6-carbonsäure, Molkensäure). Orotsäure, ihr Cholinester oder Orotsäure-Metallsalze (Orotate von Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) sind erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugt. Erfindungsgemäß besonders bevorzugte Zusammensetzungen sind dadurch gekennzeichnet, dass sie mindestens eine Komponente, ausgewählt aus Orotsäure, Orotaten und deren Estern, in einer Gesamtmenge von 0,0001-1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere 0,01-0,5 Gew.-%, bezogen auf die Zusammensetzung, enthalten.

Particularly preferred are the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R ¹ to R ^{6 are} independently a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy, aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono , Di- or triamino-C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one of the said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and of the 2-furanone derivatives in a total amount of 0.05 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.1 to 3% by weight. , Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin B ₆ component in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from biotin and the biotin esters in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.
• - Folic acid (Vitamin B ₉ , Vitamin B _c ). International generic name for N- [4- (2-amino-3,4-dihydro-4-oxo-6-pteridinylmethylamino) -benzoyl] -L-glutamic acid (N-pteroyl-L-glutamic acid, PteGlu). Following is used synonymously with pteroylglutamate, folate is the collective term for all folic acid-active compounds and refers to a class of substances containing a 4-aminobenzoic acid and L-glutamic acid associated pteridine ring. Folic acid is a growth factor for various microorganisms and a verbin vitamin-containing compounds, which are normally found in nature as polyglutamate and in reduced form (7,8-dihydrofolic acid, H ₂ folate, DHF, tetrahydrofolic acid, H ₄ folate, THF, 5'-methyl-tetrahydrofolic acid, CH ₃ -H ₄ folate, MeTHF) occurs. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from folic acid, folates and their esters, in a total amount of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular from 0.01 to 0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.
• - Orotic acid (vitamin B ₁₃ , 1,2,3,6-tetrahydro-2,6-dioxo-4-pyrimidine-carboxylic acid, uracil-6-carboxylic acid, molar acid). Orotic acid, its choline ester or orotic acid metal salts (orotates of Ca, Cr, Fe, K, Co, Cu, Li, Mg, Mn, Na, Zn, Sn) are particularly preferred according to the invention. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one component selected from orotic acid, orotates and their esters, in a total amount of 0.0001-1.0% by weight, in particular 0.01-0.5% by weight. %, based on the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one substance which is selected from the vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of the group B ₁ , B ₂ , B ₃ , B ₆ , B ₇ , B ₈ , B ₁₃ and their esters and from pantolactone.

preferred Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of group C and their Esters are Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and Magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, Chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside. The combination with tocopherols may also be preferred. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they at least one of said Compounds of the vitamin C type in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included. Count to the vitamin E group Tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, Tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one substance, selected from tocopherol and its derivatives, in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one vitamin K in a total amount of from 0001 to 1.0% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 0.01% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 0.5 Wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

vitamin A-palmitate (retinyl palmitate), pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbyl acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate and the tocopherol esters, especially tocopheryl acetate, are particularly preferred in the invention prefers.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain, in addition to the active ingredient combination according to the invention, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or their ester, lactone or salt form. Preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids or α-ketocarboxylic acids according to the invention are glycolic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2,3-dihydroxypropanoic acid, 2-hydroxypentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2- Hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, mandelic acid, 4-hydroxymandelic acid, malic acid, erythraric acid, threaric acid, glucaric acid, galactaric acid, mannaric acid, gular acid, 2-hydroxy-2-methylsuccinic acid, gluconic acid, pyruvic acid, glucuronic acid and galacturonic acid. Particularly preferred α-hydroxycarboxylic acids are lactic acid, citric acid, glycolic acid and gluconic acid. A particularly preferred β-hydroxycarboxylic acid is salicylic acid. The esters of said acids are selected from the methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, amyl, pentyl, hexyl, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl, decyl, dodecyl and hexadecyl esters. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain, in addition to the combination of active substances according to the invention, at least one .alpha.-hydroxy carboxylic acid, α-ketocarboxylic acid and / or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or a derivative, in particular an ester, a lactone or a salt thereof, in a total amount of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight , Particularly preferably 0.5-1-2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich Plant extract.

The preferred according to the invention Flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), aurones and isoflavones. Especially preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, Naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Dihydroquercetin (Taxifolin), hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, Hesperidin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, Quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)), Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside).

Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, Naringin and Apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. in gingko species occurrence. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, above all phloricin, hesperidin methyl chalcone and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one flavonoid in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Flavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich Plant extract. To the isoflavonoids at this point the Isoflavones and the isoflavone glycosides are counted.

Under Isoflavones are substances for the purposes of the present invention, the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran represent, wherein a hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton are present may be an oxidation to form a carbonyl group in the 4-position, and substitution substitute one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. Examples of preferred isoflavones according to the invention include Daidzein, Genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and Formononetin. As isoflavones Daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin are particularly preferred.

In the invention preferred Isoflavone glycosides are the isoflavones via at least one hydroxy group linked glycosidically with at least one sugar. Mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose into consideration. Particularly according to the invention preferred isoflavone glycosides are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be found in the person skilled in the art For example, by squeezing or extracting from plants such as soy, red clover or chickpeas are obtained. Especially preferred be in the preparations of the invention Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soy-derived Extracts used, such as under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) commercially available are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one isoflavonoid in a total of .00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire cosmetic composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one polyphenol or polyphenol-rich plant extract.

Under Polyphenols are aromatic according to the invention Understand compounds containing at least two phenolic hydroxy groups in the molecule contain. Which includes the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, furthermore phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In the Naturally, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example flower pigments (Anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives on. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and Digalloylgallic. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, the is called the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is the derivatives leucoanthocyanidins, which are preferably in 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 Position carry phenolic hydroxy groups, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, as well as those from self-condensation resulting tannins. Such tanning agents are preferably not in isolated pure substance, but as extracts tanneriferreicher Plant parts used, z. B. Extracts from Catechu, Quebracho, Oak bark and pine bark as well as other tree bark, leaves of green Tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

One particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from the company Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay L, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, available from the company Croda.

According to the invention preferred are the polyphenols in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, particularly preferred 0.005 to 5% by weight and extraordinarily preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, each based on the weight of Commercial product containing at least one polyphenol in which entire composition according to the invention, used.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (UBI-I):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one ubiquinone, ubiquinol or a derivative thereof in a total amount of 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 Wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain silymarin. According to the invention, silymarin is an active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum) which was formerly regarded as a uniform substance. The main constituents of the sily marins are Silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, which belong to the group of flavanolignans.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they Silymarin in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001 bis 0.01 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one of course occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, Theobromine and aminophylline. According to the invention, the naturally occurring ones are preferred Xanthine derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, more preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt% and extraordinarily preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. According to the invention preferred Ectoin is in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferred 0.001 to 0.5 wt% and extraordinarily preferably 0.005 to 0.01 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Creatine. Creatine is the common name for N-methyl-guanidino-acetic acid or N-amidinosarcosine. According to the invention preferred is creatine in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, particularly preferred 0.001 to 0.5 wt% and extraordinarily preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract). An invention particularly preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Oleanoline DPG available from Vincience. Another invention especially preferred olive leaf extract is under the trade name Olea europ Fol extr. S. sicc. available from Fruitarom.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one olive leaf extract in a total amount of 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.5 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the extract as a commercial product Tel quel in the entire composition of the invention included.

Olive leaf extracts can a high content of oleanolic acid and / or oleanol. In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention oleanolic acid, Oleanol and / or oleuropein. Particularly preferred compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they are oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or oleuropein in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based to the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Ursolic acid. Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they ursolic in a total amount of 0.00001 to 2% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 1 wt .-% and especially preferably 0.05 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition of the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one active ingredient selected from mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters. Polyhydroxystilbenes according to the invention are stilbenes understood as having 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10 hydroxy groups substituted on the two phenyl radicals, which esterified could be. Increase mono- and polyhydroxystilbene and their esters and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Hydroxystilbene particularly preferred according to the invention and their esters are selected from resveratrol (trans-stilbene-3,4'-5-triol), the resveratrol mono-, di- and -triphosphoric acid esters and their salts. A resveratrol phosphoric acid ester which is particularly preferred according to the invention is Trisodium resveratrol triphosphates, e.g. Available from Ajinomoto.

Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, in a total amount of 0.000001-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.00001-1 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt .-% and most preferably 0.005-0.05 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of active substance in the total composition.

• – sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate (Algisium C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC powder^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH^®, Exsymol)
• – dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC^®, Exsymol)
• – methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium^®, Exsymol)
• – lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C^®, Exsymol)
• – dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate^®, Exsymol)
• – pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane^®, Exsymol)
• – methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane C^® Exsymol)
• – methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane^®, Exsymol)
• – copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C^®, Exsymol).

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one derivative of methylated silanol, preferably at least one ester of methylated silanol. Preferred derivatives of methylated silanol are selected from:

• - sodium mannuronate methylsilanol (algisium, exsymol)
• - Mannuronate methylsilanol (Algisium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol Mannuronate Nylon-12 (Algisium C powder ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol (Ascorbosilane concentrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - ascorbylmethylsilanol pectinate (Ascorbosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxsilane (DSBC ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethyl oxobenzodioxasilane Nylon-12 (DSBC ^® powder, Exsymol)
• - sodium hyaluronate dimethylsilanol (DSH ^®, Exsymol)
• - dimethylsilanol hyaluronate (DSHC ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methysilanol glycyrrhizinate (Glysinol ^® , exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline (Hydroxyprolisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolhydroxyproline aspartate (Hydroxyprolisilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - sodium lactate methylsilanol (Lasilium ^® , exsymol)
• - lactoylmethylsilanol elastinate (Lasilium C ^®, Exsymol)
• - dioleyl tocopheryl methylsilanol (Liposiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetylmethionate (Methiosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - acetylmethionylmethylsifanol elastinate (Methiosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanol tri PEG 7 glyceryl cocoate (Monosiliol C ^®, Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol elastinate (Proteosilane C ^®, Exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate caustic methylsilanol (Silhydrate ^® , exsymol)
• - pyrollidone carboxylate copper methylsilanol (Silhydrate C ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilanolcarboxymethyl theophylline (Theophyllisilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - methylsilancarboxymethyl theophylline alginate (Theophyllisilane ^® C Exsymol)
• - Methylsilanol acetyltyrosine (Tyrosilane ^®, Exsymol)
• - copper acetyl tyrosinate methylsilanol (Tyrosilane C ^®, Exsymol).

Especially Sodium hyaluronates are preferably dimethylsilanol, dimethylsilanol Hyaluronates, Methylsilanol Mannuronate, Methylsilanol Hydroxyproline and methylsilanol hydroxyproline aspartates. In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one derivative of methylated silanol in total of 0.001-5 wt.%, preferably 0.005-1 wt.%, and more preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-%, each based on the active substance in the whole composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention Phytic acid. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains phytic acid in a total amount of 0.001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.01-0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.05-0.1 wt .-% contained, in each case based on the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one corn kernel extract (Zea mays kernel Extract). An invention particularly preferred extract of corn kernels is under the trade name Deliner of the company Coletica available. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient selected from extracts of maize kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract) in a total amount of 0.01-5% by weight, preferably 0 , 1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the content of extract tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance which is selected from extracts of corn kernels (Zea mays (Corn) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt.%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt. %, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one extract of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel Extract). An invention particularly preferred extract from oat grains is under the trade name Drago Beta Glucan (02/060800) from available from Symrise. This extract increases and / or improves the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the selected is made from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) kernel extract), in a total of 0.01-5 Wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, particularly preferably 1-2 wt .-%, in each case based on the content of extract tel quel throughout Composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the selected is made from extracts of oat grains (Avena sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract), in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt%, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight contained, in each case based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one product produced by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter ylinum is referred to as Kombucha and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment. Increase and / or increase such products improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred product is under the trade name Kombuchka of the company Sederma available (INCI name: Saccharomyces / xylinum / black tea ferment, glycerol, hydroxyethylcellulose).

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the selected is made from products obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea ferment, in a total amount of 0.01-5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1-3 wt .-%, more preferably 1-2 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of product tel quel in the entire composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one active ingredient, the selected is made from products obtained by fermentation of sugared black tea with the two symbiotic microorganisms Saccharomyces and Acetobacter Xylinum and the INCI name Saccharomyces / Xylinum / Black Tea Ferment, in a total amount of 0.00001-1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, respectively based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one extract of apple seed extracts (Pyrus malus (Apple) Fruit extract. Such extracts increase and / or improve the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. Particularly according to the invention preferred apple seed extracts are under the trade name Ederline available from the company Seporga. The product contains Ederline Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes. Ederline is once in water-soluble form as Ederline-H (INCI: PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PPG-2-Ceteareth-9, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract), on the other in fat-soluble Form as Ederline-L (INCI: Hexyldecanol, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract) available.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains the raw material Ederline in quantities from 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 1-8% by weight and more preferably 3-5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions are thereby in that it contains at least one apple seed extract in quantities of 0.00001-2% by weight, preferably 0.001-1.6% by weight and more preferably 0.03-1 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention contain at least one extract of lotus nuclei (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract). Increase such extracts and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred lotus germ extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Lotus Germ Extract with the INCI name Water, Butylene Glycol, Nelumbo Nucifera Germ Extract from Maruzen.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of lotus seeds (Nelumbo nucifera germ extract) in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of lotus seeds in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance throughout the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one extract of red wine. Increase such extracts and / or improve the interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. A particularly preferred red wine extract according to the invention is available under the trade name Sepivinol R from Seppic.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and particularly preferably 2-3 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition, included. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of red wine in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance throughout the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one grape seed extract (Vitis vinifera (Grape) Seed extract). Such extracts increase and / or improve the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. The grape seed extracts are particularly preferably derived from the Chardonnay grape. Particularly preferred according to the invention Grape seed extracts are under the trade name Herbalia Grape from Cognis or under the trade name Crodarom Chardonnay available from Croda.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of grape seeds in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-8 wt .-% and especially preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it contains at least one extract of grape seeds in amounts of 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt.% and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance throughout the composition.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one extract of black elderflower (Sambucus Nigra Flower Extract). Such extracts increase and / or improve the Interaction between the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts. One particularly according to the invention preferred extract of black elderflower is under the trade name Sambucus AO available from Alpaflor / Centerchem or Permcos.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of blacks elderflower in amounts of 0.1-10 wt .-%, preferably 1-5 wt .-% and especially preferably 2-3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain. Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one extract of black elderflower in quantities from 0.00001-1 wt.%, preferably 0.0001-0.1 wt.%, and especially preferably 0.001-0.05 wt .-%, each based on the content of active substance in the entire composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one agent that inhibits beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes stimulated.

Particularly according to the invention preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are selected from Mixtures of at least one extract of the leaves of the Mentha piperita and at least one extract of cocoa beans, being aqueous glycolic or aqueous-glycolic Preparations of these extract mixtures under the trade names Caomint, Caophenol, Caobromine, Caospice and Caoorange from the company Solabia available are, are particularly preferred. Another particularly preferred stimulator Beta-endorphin synthesis is the dipeptide derivative N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester with the INCI name acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester, the z. B. as aqueous Preparation under the trade name Calmosensine by the company Sederma available is.

Further preferred stimulators of beta-endorphin synthesis are extracts of Helichrysum italicum, e.g. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Perpetua from Codif, extracts from Crithmum Maritimum, z. B. available under the trade names Areaumat Samphira and Aroleat Samphira by Codif, extracts of Lavendula stoechas, z. B. available under the trade name Areaumat Lavanda by the company Codif, extracts of Mentha piperita, as z. Available under the trade names Authenticals of Peppermint (Solabia) and Calmiskin (Silab), glutamylamidoethyl indoles, e.g. B. available under the trade name Glistin exsymol, obtained by microbial fermentation branched polysaccharide with rhamnose, galactose and glucuronic acid units with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-2, z. B. available under the trade name Rhamnosoft from the company Solabia, extracts from the seeds of Tephrosia Purpurea with the INCI name Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract, z. B. available under the trade name Tephroline from Vincience, mixtures of the oil of Mentha arvensis leaves, lime skin oil, cypress oil, lavender oil and Cistus Ladaniferus oil with the INCI name Mentha Arvensis Leaf Oil and Citrus Medica Limonum (Lemon) Peel Oil and Cupressus Sempervirens Oil and Lavandula Hybrida Oil and Cistus Ladaniferus Oil, eg. B. available under the trade name V-Tonic (Gattefossé), and hexasaccharides according to FR 2842201 as well as any mixtures of these active ingredients. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions which are particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active substance for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.01-10% by weight, preferably 0.1-5% by weight, and particularly preferably 1-3 wt .-%, each based on the commercial product containing the active ingredient, in the entire composition of the invention included. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one active ingredient for stimulating beta-endorphin synthesis in total amounts of 0.00001-1% by weight, preferably 0.0001-0.1% by weight and particularly preferably 0.001-0.05% by weight, based in each case on the content of active substance in the total composition according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention for supporting the action of the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, comprise at least one sebum-regulating active ingredient. Sebum-regulating active substances preferred according to the invention are selected from 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, azelaic acid and the esters of azelaic acid, in particular potassium azeloyl diglycinate, 1,10-decanediol and at least one extract of Spiraea ulmaria, glycyrrhizin, which is also referred to as glycyrrhizic acid or glycyrrhetinic acid glycoside and the beta-glucuronido-alpha-glucuronide of glycyrrhetinic acid, and their salts, tannic acid and its salts, gallotannins, naringin, mixtures of glycyrrhizin (salts), tannic acid (salts) and / or gallotannins and naringin, as for example as a commercial product BiSCos Glynarin PF (INCI: Aqua (Water), Alacohol, Ohenoxyethanol, Ammonium Glycyrrhizate, Tannic Acid, Naringine) are available from the company Biesterfeld, further from water and oil-soluble extracts of witch hazel, burdock root and stinging nettle, Zimtbaumextract (z. (B. Sepicontrol A5 ^® by the company SEPPIC), chrysanthemum extract eg Laricyl ^®, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques), Hefeproteinhydrolysaten as ^® series, ex Laboratoires Serobiologiques are available, for example in the commercial products the Asebiol, particularly Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 2 (INCI:. Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerine, panthenol, allantoin, biotin) and Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT (Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, glycerin, panthenol, propylene glycol, allantoin, Disodium azelates, biotin), and PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether as such. B. in the commercial product "Antifettfaktor ^® COS-218/2-A" of Cosmetochem is included (INCI: Aqua, Cetyl-PCA, PEG-8 Isolauryl thioether, PCA, Cetyl Alcohol), and mixtures of the aforementioned substances For example, available as a commercial product Acnacidol PG (propylene glycol, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, sebacic acid, 1,10-decanediol) from Vincience.A preferred extract from Spiraea Ulmaria is, for example, contained in the product Seboregul 2 from the company Silab.A potassium azeloyl diglycinate For example, the cosmetic or dermatological compositions particularly preferred according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one sebum-regulating active compound in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1-2 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition of the invention, ent hold.

To support the photocatalytically active metal oxide used according to the invention, in particular titanium dioxide, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one particulate, sebum-sorbing agent, in particular talc, starch and other particles. Cosmetic or dermatological compositions preferred according to the invention are characterized in that the particulate, sebum-sorbing active ingredient is selected from inorganic and organic cosmetic adsorbents having average particle diameters of 0.1-100 μm, preferably 0.5-50 μm, particularly preferably 5-30 μm and extraordinarily preferably 10-25 μm. Particularly preferred inorganic adsorbents are selected from silicas, particularly Aerosil ^® grades, silica gels, silica, clays and layered silicates, in particular bentonite or kaolin, magnesium aluminum silicates, in particular talc, and boron nitride, and mixtures of said substances. Particularly preferred organic adsorbents are selected from starches and starch derivatives, which may be chemically and / or physically modified, in particular modified starch derivatives of type DRY FLO ^® of National Starch and Chemical Company, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin, particularly sodium C _8-16 -Isoalkylsuccinyllactoglobulinsulfonat, z. B. available as a commercial product Biopol ^® OE Brooks Industries, polymer powders of polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyamides, polyesters, polystyrenes, polyacrylates, polymethacrylates, polymethyl methacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers, Teflon or silicones , Wherein said polymer powders may be crosslinked in a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, and mixtures of said substances.

Polymer powder based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are z. B. as a commercial product Polytrap ^® 6603 (Dow Corning) available. Other polymer powders, e.g. Example based on polyamides, obtainable under the name Orgasol ^® 1002 (polyamide-6) and Orgasol ^® 2002 (polyamide-12) from Elf Atochem. Further according to the invention particularly preferred polymer powders are crosslinked polymethacrylates (Micro Pearl ^® M from SEPPIC or Plastic Powder A of NIKKOL), cross-linked polymethyl (Micro Pearl ^® M 305 and Micro Pearl ^® M 310 from SEPPIC), styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (e.g., B. Plastic Powder FP (of NIKKOL), polyethylene and polypropylene powder z. B. ACCUREL EP 400 ^® (ex AKZO) or silicone polymers z. B. silicone powder X2-1605 from Dow Corning).

In a further preferred embodiment The invention features the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent cavities on. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention the particulate, sebumsorbierende drug on hemispherical particles, especially preferably at least 50% by weight of the particles are hemispherical. In a further preferred embodiment The invention features the particulate, sebumsorbierende agent hemispherical Particles with cavities on, particularly preferred are at least 50 wt .-% of the particles hemispherical with cavities.

Particularly preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, in particular the commercial products Micropearl ^® M 305 and Micropearl ^® M 310 SEPPIC. Extremely preferred particulate, sebumsorbierende agents are crosslinked polymethyl methacrylates with average particle diameters of 5-50 microns, which include hemispherical particles with cavities, more preferably at least 50 wt .-% of the particles are hemispherical with cavities, such as the commercial product Micropearl ^® M 310 of SEPPIC.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one particulate sebumsorbierenden agent in a total amount of 0.5 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 1 to 5% by weight and more preferably 1.5 to 3% by weight, in each case based on the total composition.

to support of the invention used photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, contain the skin treatment agents according to the invention furthermore prefers at least one astringent active substance, the to a temporary Narrowing of the skin pores leads, for example tannins or tannins or polyphenols in general, continue to use aluminum salts, as well as anti-perspirant agents Find use. These agents regulate the amount of sebum the skin surface by delay the sebum outlet.

In order to support the photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular titanium dioxide, used according to the invention, the skin treatment compositions according to the invention preferably further comprise at least one sebum-regulating active substance which contains the enzyme 5-alpha-reducta which is involved in the activity of the sebaceous glands se inhibited. Preferred inhibitors of 5-alpha-reductase are selected from finasteride ^®, 4-androstene-3-one-17β-carboxylic acid, (4R) -5,10-seco-19-norpregna-4,5-diene-3,10, 20-trian, (5-alpha, 20-R) -4-diazo-21-hydroxy-20-methylpregnan-3-one, 4-azasteroid, especially 17β-N, N-diethylcarbamoyl-4-methyl-4-aza 5-alpha-androstan-3-one, 17-alpha-acetoxy-6-methylene pregn-4-ene-3,20-dione, 3-carboxyandrosta-3,5-diene steroid derivatives and 3-carboxy A ring-aryl steroids, 3-androstene-3-carboxylic acids, 3-carboxy-17β-substituted steroids, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5-α-androst-1-en-4-aza-3-one, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide ) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-carboxylic acid, 17β- (N, N -diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-sulfonic acid, 17β- (N , N-diisopropylcarboxamide ) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphonic acid, 17β- (N, N -diisopropylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -estra-1,3,5 (10) -triene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt -butylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-3,5-diene-3-phosphinic acid, 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -androst-3, 5-diene-3-phosphonic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -androst-4-en-3-ylidene acetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-2- en-3-acetic acid, (Z) -17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-3-ylidene acetic acid, 17β- (N, N-diisopropylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-3-ene-3 acetic acid and 17β- (Nt-butylcarboxamide) -5α-androst-2-ene-3-acetic acid and the physiologically acceptable salts of the aforementioned acids.

Particularly according to the invention preferred compositions are characterized in that they at least one inhibitor of 5-alpha reductase in a total amount from 0.0001 to 1% by weight, preferably 0.001 to 0.5% by weight, and especially preferably 0.01 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention at least one deoxy sugar or at least one deoxy sugar building block containing polysaccharide.

Preferred deoxysugars according to the invention are selected from rhamnose and fucose. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product fucogel ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum -1. Another inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Rhamnosoft ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-2. An inventively particularly preferred, deoxy devices containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Fucogenol ^® from Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharide Gum-third An inven tion according to particularly preferred, deoxy sugar building blocks containing polysaccharide is the commercial product Glycofilm ^® of Solabia with the INCI name Biosaccharides Gum-4. According to the invention furthermore given to mixtures of the above, containing at least one deoxy-block polysaccharides, for example the mixture of Biosaccharide Gum-2 and Biosaccharide Gum-3, available as a commercial product Elastinol plus ^® from Solabia are.

Particularly according to the invention preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions characterized in that it comprises at least one deoxy sugar and / or at least one polysaccharide containing deoxy sugar building blocks in total amounts of 0.001 to 5% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 2% by weight and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the entire composition according to the invention, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one organic skin lightening agent. Skin-lightening active ingredients preferred according to the invention are selected individually or in mixtures from hydroquinone, kojic acid, arbutin, extracts from licorice root (Glycyrrhiza glabra), extracts from different parts of the mulberry tree (Morus spp., In particular from Morus alba and in particular extracts from the bark, the strain , leaves and fruits), extracts of Scutellaria spp. (Home herb), in particular from Scutellaria baicalensis (Baikal home herb) and in particular extract from the root, extracts from Waltheria indica ("Sleepy Morning") and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of bearberry (Arctostaphylos uva-ursi (L. ), Ericaceae) and in particular extracts from the leaves, extracts of cranberry (leaves and flowers), extracts of blueberry (fruits), extracts of leaf buds of pear trees, aniseed oil, extracts of blackberry leaves, furthermore extracts of Pyrola rotundifolia (round-leaved wintergreen), Cucumber and / or lime, furthermore ascorbic acid, coumaric acid ((Z) -2-hydroxycinnamic acid) and cis-9-octadecenedioic acid (other nomenclature: cis-8-hexadecenedicarboxylic acid), the latter being commercially available, for example, from US Pat Designation Arlatone DIOIC DCA from Uniqema, and the esters and / or salts of these acids. Particularly preferred cosmetic or dermatological compositions according to the invention are characterized in that they contain at least one organic skin lightening agent in total amounts of from 0.00001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.1 to 1. 2 wt .-%, each based on the active ingredient in the total composition according to the invention.

advantageously, are the skin treatment compositions of the invention in the form of a liquid, flowable or solid oil-in-water emulsion, Water-in-oil emulsion, Multiple emulsion, especially an oil-in-water-in-oil or Water-in-oil-in-water emulsion, Macroemulsion, miniemulsion, microemulsion, PIT emulsion, nanoemulsion, Pickering emulsion, hydrodispersion, hydrogel, lipogel, a single or multi-phase solution, a foam, a powder or a mixture with at least a polymer suitable as a medical adhesive. The means can also in anhydrous form, such as an oil or a Balm, to be presented. Here, the carrier may be a vegetable or animal oil, a mineral oil, a synthetic oil or a Mixture of such oils be.

In a particular embodiment the agents according to the invention the agents are present as a microemulsion. Be under microemulsions in the context of the invention in addition to the thermodynamically stable microemulsions also understood the so-called "PIT" emulsions. These emulsions are systems with the 3 components Water, oil and emulsifier which are at room temperature as an oil-in-water emulsion. When heating this Systems form in a certain temperature range (as phase inversion temperature or "PIT") microemulsions from, which in further warming in Water-in-oil emulsions convert. When followed cooling down again O / W emulsions are formed, but also at room temperature as microemulsions or as very finely divided emulsions with a middle Particle diameter below 400 nm and in particular from about 100-300 nm, are present. According to the invention, such Micro or "PIT" emulsions preferred be, which have a mean particle diameter of about 200 nm.

With the term perfume oil are preferred meant self-contained fragrance compositions commonly known be used for product scenting and in particular for human Discretion are fragrant. This will be explained with an example. Want a professional, e.g. to make a deodorant fragrant, so he adds to it usually not only a (well) smelling substance, but a collective (well) smelling Substances. Such a collective usually consists of a plurality of individual fragrances, e.g. more than 10 or 15, preferably up to 100 or more. These fragrances form cooperatively a desired one fragrant, harmonious smell.

One Perfume oil according to the invention can be individual Fragrance compounds, e.g. the synthetic products of the type the esters, ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons contain. Fragrance compounds of the ester type are known e.g. benzyl acetate, Phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, Dimethylbenzylcarbinylacetate (DM BOA), phenylethylacetate, benzylacetate, Ethylmethylphenylglycinate, allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, Benzyl salicylate, cyclohexyl salicylate, Floramat, Melusat and Jasmecyclat. Count to the Ethern for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxane, to the aldehydes e.g. the linear alkanals with 8-18 carbon atoms, citral, citronellal, citronellyloxy-acetaldehyde, Cyclamenaldehyde, lilial and bourgeonal, to the ketones e.g. the Jonone, α-isomethylionone and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, to the hydrocarbons belong mainly the terpenes like limonene and pinene. However, mixtures are preferred different fragrances used, which together create an appealing Generate fragrance of the perfume oil formed.

The But perfume oils can also natural Contain fragrance mixtures, as they are accessible from plant sources, e.g. Pine, citrus, jasmine, patchouly, rose or ylang-ylang oil. Also suitable are Muscat sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Melissa oil mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, olibanum oil, galbanum oil and labdanum oil, as well as Orange blossom oil, neroliol, Orange peel oil and sandalwood oil.

In order to be perceptible, a fragrance must be volatile, whereby besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure of the chemical compound, the molecular weight also plays an important role. For example, most odorants have molecular weights up to about 200 daltons, while molecular weights of 300 daltons and above are more of an exception. Due to the different volatility of fragrances fen the odor of a perfume composed of several fragrances during evaporation, changing the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" and " Ba sisnote "(end note or dry out).

Tenacious Fragrances, in the context of the present invention advantageously can be used in perfume oils are, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, Bayöl, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannenöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce almond oil, galbanum oil, geranium oil, ginger grass oil, guaiac wood oil, Gurjunbalsamöl, Helichrysumöl, Ho oil, ginger oil, Iris Oil, Cajuput Oil, Calamus Oil, Chamomile Oil, Camphor Oil, Kanaga Oil, Cardamom Oil, Cassia Oil, Pine Needle Oil, Kopaïva Balsam Oil, Coriander Oil, Spearmint Oil, Cumin Oil, Cumin Oil, Lemongrass Oil, Musk Grain Oil, Myrrh Oil, Clove Oil, Neroli Oil, Niaouli Oil, Olibanum Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain oil, pepper oil, peppermint oil, pimento oil, pine oil, rose oil, rosemary oil, sandalwood oil, celery oil, star aniseed oil, thuja oil, thyme oil, verbena oil, vetiver oil, juniper berry oil, wormwood oil, wintergreen oil, ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon oil and Cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling ones or solid odoriferous natural or of synthetic origin in the context of the present invention vorortihafterweise as adherent Fragrances or fragrance mixtures are used in the perfume oils. To this Counting connections the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, α-amylcinnamaldehyde, Anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, methyl anthranilate, Acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, Benzyl alcohol, borneol, bornyl acetate, α-bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, Fenchone, fenchyl acetate, geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, Heptincarbonsäuremethylester, Heptaldehyde, hydroquinone di-methyl ether, hydroxycinnamaldehyde, hydroxycinnamyl alcohol, Indole, iron, isoeugenol, isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, Camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-cresol methyl ether, coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, Methyl n-amyl ketone, Methylanthranilsäuremethylester, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methyl-β-naphthylketone, Methyl-n-nonylacetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muskon, β-naphthol ethyl ether, β-naphthol methyl ether, Nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, β-phenylethyl alcohol, phenylacetaldehyde dimethyl acetal, phenylacetic acid, Pulegone, safrol, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, methyl salicylate, Salicylsäurehexylester, Salicylsäurecyclohexylester, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, γ-undelactone, vaniline, veratrum aldehyde, Cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamate, Zimtsäurebenzylester.

To the more volatile Fragrances which are advantageous in the perfume oil in the context of the present invention can be used count especially the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, used alone or in mixtures can be. examples for more volatile fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, Linalyl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All The above-mentioned fragrances are used alone or as a mixture in the perfume oils according to the present invention Invention can be used with the advantages already mentioned.

Especially can also fragrances from the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols, Ester tertiary Alcohols, allylic ketones, acetals, ketals, condensation products of amines and aldehydes and / or mixtures thereof in the perfume oil be.

In a preferred embodiment contains the agent of the invention certain minimum values of perfume oil, namely at least 0.00001 wt .-%, advantageously at least 0.0001 wt .-%, in considerably more advantageous Way at least 0.001 wt .-%, more preferably at least 0.01% by weight, more preferably at least 0.1% by weight, in a further advantageous manner at least 0.2 wt .-%, in very advantageous Way at least 0.3 wt .-%, in a particularly advantageous manner at least 0.4 wt .-%, in a particularly advantageous manner at least 0.45 Wt .-%, in a significantly advantageous manner at least 0.5 wt .-%, in whole considerably advantageously at least 0.55 wt .-%, in extremely advantageous Way at least 0.6 wt .-%, in the highest advantageously at least 0.65% by weight, most advantageously at least 0.7% by weight, in an exceptionally advantageous manner at least 0.75% by weight, in exceptionally advantageous Way at least 0.8 wt .-%, in extremely advantageous Way at least 0.85 wt .-%, in particular at least 0.9 wt .-% of Perfume oil, based on the entire remedy.

In a preferred embodiment, the perfume oils contain less than 8, advantageously less than 7, more preferably less than 6, more preferably less than 5, more preferably less than 4, even more preferably less than 3, preferably less than 2, especially no fragrances from the list Amylcinnamal, Amylcinnamylalkohol, Benzylalkohol, Benzylsalicylat, Cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamal, citral, coumarin, eugenol, geraniol, hydroxycitronellal, hydroxymethylpentylcyclohexenecarboxaldehyde, isoeugenol, anisyl alcohol, benzyl benzoate, benzyl cinnamate, citronellol, farnesol, hexylcinnamaldehyde, lilial, d-limonene, linalool, methylheptincarbonate, 3-methyl-4- (2,6 , 6-trimethyl-2-cyclohexen-1-yl) -3-buten-2-one, oak moss extract, tree moss extract.

To a further preferred embodiment is the agent of the invention free of perfume oil components, in particular in products for sensitive skin.

embodiments

The following formulation examples are intended to illustrate the subject matter of the invention without limiting it thereto. The quantities are based on wt .-%. 1. Oil-in-Water Emulsions 1. Example Series 1 2 3 safflower oil 3.00 3.00 3.00 Myritol 318 5.00 5.00 5.00 Novata AB 2.00 2.00 2.00 Lanette 22 1.00 1.00 1.00 Cutina MD 2.00 2.00 2.00 Stenol 1618 1.00 1.00 1.00 Baysilon M350 1.00 1.00 1.00 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dry Flo Plus 1.00 2.00 3.00 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 glycerin 5.00 3.00 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 phenoxyethanol 0.9 0.5 0.9 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 - 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 - 1.0 D-panthenol 0.7 0.525 0.6 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - DSH-C N 5.0 3.0 - Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.1 0.5 1 Perfume 0.10 - - Aqua ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 2nd example series: 1 2 3 4 Lipoid S75-3 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 tocopheryl acetate 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Cutina MD 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 Lanette 22 2.00 2.00 2.00 2.00 Baysilone M 350 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Propylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Dow Corning 9040 1.00 1.00 1.00 1.00 glycerin 4.50 3.00 3.00 3.00 hexanediol 6.00 3.00 - 3.00 methylparaben 0.20 0.20 0.20 0.20 Tego Carbomer 140 0.30 0.30 0.30 0.30 DSH CN 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 propylene glycol 5.00 5.00 5.00 5.00 Simulgel NS 1.50 1.50 1.50 1.50 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.50 0.50 0.50 0.50 Herbasol distillate sage - 1.0 - - Herbasol distillate witch hazel - 1.0 - - D-panthenol - 0.525 0.3 0.3 Acnacidol PG - - 1.0 2.0 Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - - 0.45 0.45 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 3 example series: 1 2 3 Sisterna SP30-C 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sisterna SP70-C 0.8 0.8 0.8 Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 ethanol 5.0 3.0 - Dry Flo Plus 1.0 1.0 1.0 Perfume - - 0.3 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Fucogel 1000 2.0 1.0 0.5 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 0.5 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 0.5 - D-panthenol 0.7 - - Glycyrrhiza Glycolic Extract 1: 2 - 1 1 Hydroqlycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 0.45 Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT 1.0 - 1.0 Spirulina Extract 3002 1.00 1.00 1.00 DSH-C N 5.0 3.0 - Keltrol SF 0.2 - 0.2 Aristoflex AVC - 0.5 - Biopeptide CL 1.0 - 0.5 1,6-hexanediol 5.0 - - glycerin 10.0 5.0 10.0 Dow Corning 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt 7.0 - - Dow Corning 245 - 5.0 5.0 Cetiol 868 2.0 - 2.0 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.1 0.1 0.3 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 4 example series: 1 2 3 Dow Corning 245 Fluid 25 25 25 Abil EM 90 2 2 2 Belsil DM 100 2.5 2.5 2.5 Hydrogenated Castor Oil 2 2.5 2 glycerin 5 5 5 NaCl 2 2.1 2 Symdiol 68 0.5 0.5 0.5 phenoxyethanol 0.4 0.4 0.4 Caomint - 2.0 - D-panthenol 0.45 0.45 0.45 D, L-alpha-bisabolol 0.1 0.1 0.1 Seboregul 2 - 1.0 2.0 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.2 0.5 0.1 Perfume - 0.3 - water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 5th example series: 1 2 3 Montanov 202 5.0 5.0 5.0 Cutina MD 2.0 2.0 2.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Cetiol B 9.0 9.0 9.0 Controx KS 0.05 0.05 0.05 Dow Corning 245 - 7.0 3.0 Dow Corning 9040 1.0 1.0 - Fucogel 1000 - 2.0 - Herbasol distillate sage - - 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel - - 1.0 D-panthenol - 0.7 0.7 Herbasol distillate white tea - 0.5 - Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng - 0.45 - DSH-C N 5.0 5.0 - Keltrol SF - 0.2 0.2 Aristoflex AVC - - 0.5 1,6-hexanediol 6.0 6.0 - glycerin 3.0 5.0 10.0 Dow Corning 200 Fluid 7.0 7.0 - Dow Corning 245 - 5.0 3.0 Dow Corning 9040 1.0 - 1.0 propylene glycol 2.0 2.0 - Tego Carbomer 140 0.3 0.3 0.3 Phenonip 0.5 0.5 0.5 Hydro Vance 3.0 4.0 6.5 Dry Flo Plus 1.0 1.0 1.0 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.2 0.5 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 6th example series: 1 2 3 Glucamate SSE-20 2.0 2.0 2.0 Sympatens-BS / 080 2.0 2.0 2.0 Dry Flo Plus 1.0 1.0 Silicone oil 350 0.3 0.3 Cutina MD 2.0 2.0 2.0 paraffin oil 2.0 1.0 Cetearyl Alcohol 1.0 1.5 1.25 Caprylic / capric acid triglyceride 3.5 3.0 Herbasol distillate sage 1.0 1.0 Herbasol distillate witch hazel 1.0 1.0 D-panthenol 0.7 1.0 D, l-bisabolol 0.1 0.1 phenoxyethanol 0.98 0.5 0.9 Symdiol 68 0.5 DSH-C N 5.0 Keltrol SF 0.2 Aristoflex AVC 0.5 0.5 1,6-hexanediol 5.0 5.0 glycerin 2.0 5.0 10.0 Culminal MHPC 100 0.1 0.1 0.1 Micro Pearl ^® M 310 1.0 0.5 - propylene glycol 2.0 5.0 3.0 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.05 1.0 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 7. Example series: Skin treatment gels 1 2 3 Carbopol ETD 2020 0.5 0.5 0.5 NaOH 0.19 0.19 0.19 Sodium EDTA 0.1 0.1 0.1 phenoxyethanol 1.0 1.0 1.0 Titanium dioxide (Kronos vlp 7000) 0.05 1.0 0.1 water ad 100 ad 100 ad 100

The Example compositions according to the invention are on skin affected by acne and / or impurities, in particular the facial skin, the skin of the décolleté and / or the back, applied.

In order to Another object of the present application is a method for non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of the skin that characterized in that a composition according to the invention according to one the claims 1-10 on the skin, especially the facial skin, the skin of the décolleté and / or of the back, is applied.

The compositions of the invention are characterized by a high skin compatibility. List of raw materials used trade name INCI name Supplier / Manufacturer Abil EM 90 CETYL PEG / PPG-10/1 DIMETHICONE Degussa Acnacidol PG Aqua (Water), Propylene glycol, Sebacic acid, 10-hydroxydecanoic acid, 1,10-decanediol Vincience Aristoflex® ^® AVC Ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP copolymer, t-butyl alcohol Clariant Asebiol ^® LS 2539 BT Aqua, Hydrolyzed Yeast Protein, Pyridoxine, Niacinamide, Glycerol, Panthenol, Propylene Glycol, Allantoin, Disodium Azelate, Biotin Laboratoires Sérobiologiques Baysilone oil M 350 Dimethicone GE Bayer Silicones Belsil DM 100 Dimethicone brave Biopeptide CL Glyceryl polymethacrylates, propylene glycol, N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys Sederma Caomint Propylene Glycol, Aqua, Mentha piperita, Theobroma cacao Solabia Carbopol ETD 2020 Acrylates / C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer Noveon Cetiol 868 2-ethylhexyl stearate Cognis Cetiol ^® B Dibutyl adipate Cognis Controx KS Tocopherol, Hydrogenated Palm Glycerides Citrate Cognis Culminal MHPC 100 Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose Hercules Cutina MD Glyceryl stearate (mixture of glyceryl mono- and distearate) Cognis DERMOSOFT OCTIOL 1,2-octanediol Dr. Straetmans Dow ^Corning® 200 Fluid, 0.65 cSt Dimethicone Dow Corning Dow ^Corning® 245 Fluid Cyclomethicone Dow Corning Dow Corning 9040 Cyclomethicone / Dimethicone Crosspolymer Dow Corning Dry Flo Plus Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate National Starch DSH CN Water, Dimethylsilanol Hyaluronate Exsymol Fucogel 1000 Aqua (Water), Biosaccharides Gum-1, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben Solabia Glucamate ^® SSE 20 PEG-20 methyl glucose sesquistearate Noveon Glycyrrhiza Glycolic Extract 1: 2 Proylene Glycol, Aqua Pylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Glycyrrhiza Glabra (Licorice) Root Extract ACEFSpA (Azienda chimica e farmaceutica) Herbasol distillate witch hazel Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Hamamelis Virginiana (Wich Hazel) Extract Cosmetochem Herbasol distillate sage Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Salvia Officinalis (Sage) Leaf Extract Cosmetochem Herbasol distillate white tea Propylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Camellia sinensis Leaf Extract Cosmetochem Hydroglycolic Extract of Ginseng Aqua (Water), Propylene Glycol, Panax Ginseng Root Extract Greentech Hydro Vance Water, bis-N, N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, urea, ammonium lactate National Starch Keltrol SF Xanthan gum Kelco LANETTE ^® 22 Behenyl alcohol Cognis Lipoid S 75-3 Aqua, lecithin Lipoid GmbH Matrixyl 3000 Glycerin, Aqua, Butylene Glycol, Carbomer, Sederma Polysorbate 20, Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-1 Micro Pearl ^® M 310 Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer SEPPIC Montanov 202 Arachidyl Alcohol, Behenyl Alcohol, Arachidyl Glucoside Seppic Montanov 68 Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Glucoside Seppic Myritol 318 Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides Cognis Novata AB Cocoglycerides Cognis Phenonip ^® Phenoxyethanol, methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, about 28% active ingredient NIPA Seboregul 2 Butylene Glycol, Aqua (Water), Spiraea Ulmaria Extract Silab Sensiva ^® SC 50 2-ethyl hexyl glycerin Schülke & Mayr Symdiol 68 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-octanediol Symrise Simulgel NS Aqua (water) / hydroxyethyl acrylate / sodium acryloyl dimethyl taurate copolymer / squalane / polysorbate 60 Seppic Sisterna SP 30-C Sucrose distearate sisterna Sisterna SP 70-C Sucrose stearate / palmitate sisterna Sympatens-BS / 080 PEG-8 stearates Dr. W. Kolb Spirulina Extract 3002 Aqua (Water), Algae Extract IGV GmbH, Bergholz Stenol 16/18 cetearyl Cognis Symdiol 68 1,2-octanediol, 1,2-hexanediol Symrise Tego Carbomer 140 Carbomer Degussa

Claims (17)

Cosmetic or dermatological skin treatment agent, containing in a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable carrier at least one photocatalytically active metal oxide as the active ingredient against acne and blemished skin. Means according to claim 1, characterized in that the photocatalytically active metal oxide photocatalytically active Includes titanium dioxide. Agent according to claim 1 or 2, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide chemically modified is. Agent according to one of claims 1-3, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is chemically modified, photocatalytically active titanium dioxide. Agent according to one of claims 1-4, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is modified with carbon, photocatalytically active titanium dioxide. Means according to claim 5, characterized in that the carbon content of the carbon-modified photocatalytic effective metal oxide, in particular of the carbon-modified photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, ranging from 0.01 to 10 wt .-%, preferably from 0.05 to 5.0 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.3 to 1.5 % By weight, extraordinary preferably from 0.4 to 0.8 wt .-%, each based on the total weight of the modified metal oxide. Agent according to one of claims 1-6, characterized in that the specific surface of the photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular of the - optionally carbon-modified - photocatalytically active titanium dioxide, according to BET 50 to 500 m ² / g, preferably 100 to 400 m ² / g, more preferably 200 to 350 m ² / g. Agent according to one of claims 1-7, characterized that the particle size of the photocatalytic effective metal oxide, in particular of - optionally with carbon modified - photocatalytic effective titanium dioxide, in the range of 2-600 nm, preferably in the range of 200-400 nm. Agent according to one of claims 1-8, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide, in particular the - optionally carbon-modified - photocatalytic effective titanium dioxide, in a total amount of from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5 wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.05-1.0 wt .-%, extraordinarily preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the entire means. Agent according to one of claims 1-9, characterized in that it comprises in addition to the photocatalytically active metal oxide at least one further, preferably several, ingredients selected from absorbents, antimicrobials, antiperspirants, antifoaming agents, binders, substances of biological origin, bleaching agents, chelating agents, Deodorant active ingredients, emollients, emulsifiers / dispersants, emulsion stabilizers, depilatories and agents with hair growth inhibiting action, moisturizers, film formers, dyes, preservatives, corrosion inhibitors, skin cooling agents, pH regulators / buffer substances, surfactants / detergent substances, propellants, opacifiers, UV absorbers / light filter substances, denaturants, viscosity regulators, sebum-regulating active ingredients, organic skin lightening agents, hydrogel formers, solvents, at least one alkyl- or hydroxyalkyl-substituted urine substance of the general formula (A),

in which R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ independently of one another represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, sec-butyl, tert. Butyl or C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group which is substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, provided that at least one of R ₁ -R _{4 is} a C C ₂ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl group substituted with 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups or C ₁ -C ₄ hydroxyalkyl groups, further selected from at least one further cosmetic active ingredient selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids , NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, and mixtures of these agents, at least one DNA oligonucleotide or at least one RNA oligonucleotide, at least one natural Betainverbindung, at least one vitamin, provitamin or a compound designated as vitamin precursor from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the abovementioned substances, at least one α-hydroxycarboxylic acid, α-ketocarbo acid or β-hydroxycarboxylic acid or its ester, lactone or salt form, at least one flavonoid or at least one flavonoid-rich plant extract, at least one isoflavonoid or at least one isoflavonoid-rich plant extract, at least one polyphenol or a polyphenol-rich plant extract, at least one ubiquinone or a ubiquinol or its derivatives, silymarin, at least one naturally occurring xanthine derivative selected from caffeine, theophylline, theobromine and aminophylline, ectoine, creatine, at least one olive leaf extract (Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), oleanolic acid, oleanol and / or Oleuropein, ursolic acid, at least one active ingredient selected from the mono- and polyhydroxystilbenes and their esters, at least one derivative of methylated silanol, phytic acid, at least one drug which stimulates beta-endorphin synthesis in keratinocytes, at least one sebum-regulating drug, at least one a particulate, sebumsorbierenden agent and at least one astringent agent. Process for the non-therapeutic, cosmetic treatment of the skin, characterized in that an agent according to any one of claims 1-10 at and / or followed by an exposure of the body surface to light having a wavelength in the range of 300-1200 nm, preferably 380-800 nm, to the skin, in particular the facial skin, the skin of the Cleavage and / or of the back and / or skin areas affected by acne and / or impurities. Use of a photocatalytically active metal oxide as an active ingredient against acne and / or impure skin or for the production a remedy for the therapeutic treatment of acne. Use according to claim 12, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide photocatalytically active Includes titanium dioxide. Use according to claim 12 or 13, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide chemically modified is. Use according to any one of claims 12-14, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is chemically modified, photocatalytically active titanium dioxide. Use according to any one of claims 12-15, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide is modified with carbon, photocatalytically active titanium dioxide. Use according to any one of claims 12-16, characterized that the photocatalytically active metal oxide in a total amount from 0.000001 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 5% by weight, especially preferably 0.05-1.0% by weight, extremely preferably 0.1-0.5 wt .-%, in each case based on the entire means.