DE102006002767A1 - Cosmetic agent useful for increasing the effectiveness of protective ultraviolet filters on the hair comprises a combination of a polysiloxane and an ester oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic agent comprises a combination of a polysiloxane with a viscosity of 0.1-5000 cSt and an ester oil derived from a C6-C30 fatty acid and a C2-C30 alcohol. An independent claim is also included for treating the skin or hair by applying the above combination to the skin and/or hair and leaving it on until the next wash.

Description

The The invention relates to cosmetic compositions containing at least one Polysiloxane compound and at least one other synergistically acting ester oil and the use of these agents for cleaning and / or care of skin and hair.

So for example, through the intensive benefits of tanning salons Skin and hair in their structure more sustainable by UV light impaired. These impairments show up on the skin as the hair, for example, by a Loss of elasticity.

Farther leads the extensive physical activity in the free time to a frequent intensive cleansing of skin and hair. This allows the protective film from sebum, which produces continuously from the numerous sebaceous glands or sebum production of the sebaceous glands themselves will be severely impaired. When The result is a greasy skin and greasy hair.

Fashion trends with current colors for "make-up", lipsticks for To dye the lips and mascara as well as hair coloring and waving in stressed skin and preloaded hair a rest to impairment of the natural Condition of skin and hair. It is not surprising if the proportion of consumers with sensitive, less elastic, dryness and irritated skin as well as one in combability, the shine, the elasticity, the brittleness and the maximum tensile strength impaired Hair increases greatly.

The Cosmetic treatment of skin and hair is therefore an important Part of human body care. There has been no lack of attempts to remedy these shortcomings. In the skin care u.a. Emulsions for the care of their Stimulation potential by selecting suitable emulsifiers on optimized. To cleanse the skin and hair become mild surfactants used to not burden the skin and hair additionally. With moisturizing Substances are being tried to stimulate sebum production in the To avoid cleaning. UV protectants and vitamins such as Vitamin E is said to reduce the adverse effects of UV light. Protein hydrolysates are used to balance the internal structure of Skin and hair used. With plant and algae extracts can For example, the moisture balance of skin and hair are affected.

Furthermore, human hair is today treated in a variety of ways with hair cosmetic preparations. These include, for example, the cleansing of hair with shampoos, the care and regeneration with rinses and cures and the bleaching, dyeing and shaping of the hair with dyes, tinting agents, waving agents and styling preparations. In this case, means for changing or nuancing the color of the head hair play a prominent role. Apart from the bleaching agents that cause an oxidative lightening of the hair by degradation of the natural hair dyes, so in the field of hair coloring essentially three types of hair dye are of importance:
For permanent, intensive colorations with corresponding fastness properties, so-called oxidation colorants are used. Such colorants usually contain oxidation dye precursors, so-called developer components and coupler components. The developer components form the actual dyes under the influence of oxidizing agents or of atmospheric oxygen with one another or with coupling with one or more coupler components. The oxidation stains are characterized by excellent, long lasting staining results. For naturally acting dyeings but usually a mixture of a larger number of oxidation dye precursors must be used; In many cases, direct dyes are still used for shading. If the dyes formed or used directly in the course of color formation have significantly different fastnesses (eg UV stability, perspiration fastness, washfastness, etc.), then a noticeable and therefore undesirable color shift can occur over time. This phenomenon occurs more frequently when the hairstyle has hair or hair zones of different degrees of damage. An example of this is long hair, in which the hair tips exposed for a long time to all sorts of environmental influences are usually much more damaged than the relatively newly regrown hair zones.

For temporary dyeings usually dyeing or tinting agents are used which contain so-called direct drawers as a coloring component. These are dye molecules that grow directly on the hair and do not require an oxidative process to form the color. These dyes include, for example, the henna already known from antiquity for coloring body and hair. These dyeings are usually much more sensitive to shampooing than the oxidative dyeings, so that then much more quickly a much undesirable nuance shift or even a visible "discoloration" occurs.

Finally has in the most recent Time a novel dyeing process size Attention found. In this process, precursors of the natural Hair dye melanin applied to the hair; these form then in the context of oxidative processes in the hair natural analog dyes. In such processes, for example, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline as Dye precursor used. In, in particular multiple, application By means of 5,6-dihydroxyindoline it is possible to give people with graying Hair the natural Reproduce hair color. The coloration can be done with atmospheric oxygen take place as the sole oxidant, so that no further oxidizing agents resorted must become. In persons with original Medium-blond to brown hair, indoline can be the sole dye precursor be used. For the application in persons with originally red and in particular Dark to black hair color, on the other hand, can be satisfying Results frequently only by the concomitant use of other dye components, in particular special oxidation dye precursors can be achieved.

Not lastly by the heavy use of the hair, for example by coloring or perms as well as by cleaning the hair with shampoos and by environmental pollution, the importance of care products is decreasing with as possible long-lasting effect too. Such care agents affect the natural Structure and properties of hair. So can subsequently such treatments include wet and dry combability of the hair, the hold and the fullness hair or be protected from increased splitting hair.

It has therefore been common for a long time to subject the hair to a special aftertreatment. It will, usually in the form of a conditioner, the hair with special active ingredients, such as quaternary ammonium salts or special polymers. Through this treatment will be depending on the formulation, the combability, the stop and the fullness improves the hair and reduces the splitting rate.

Farther have been in recent Time so-called combination preparations designed to be the effort of the usual Multi-stage process, especially for direct application by consumers, to decrease.

These preparations included in addition to the usual Components, for example for cleaning the hair, in addition active ingredients, the sooner the hair aftertreatment agents were reserved. The consumer saves thus an application step; at the same time the packaging costs reduced because a product is needed less.

The to disposal standing agents for both separate aftertreatment agents as well as for combination preparations act generally preferred to the hair surface. Thus, active ingredients are known which the hair shine, hold, fullness, better wetness or dry combing lend or prevent the splits. As important as the external appearance hair, however, is the internal structural cohesion of the hair fibers, in particular in oxidative and reductive processes such as staining and Permanent waves strongly influenced can be.

The known active ingredients can but not all needs sufficiently cover. There is therefore still a need for active ingredients or drug combinations for cosmetic products with good nourishing properties and good biodegradability. In particular in dye and / or electrolyte-containing Formulations there is a need for additional skin care ingredients, which can be easily incorporated into known formulations.

The The object of the present invention was to provide the previously to remedy the disadvantages of the prior art.

In cosmetics, among other things, silicones are used more recently. Among the silicones, the amino-functional silicones have become established as suitable agents with good properties. However, these have an often unpleasantly blunted feel with regard to the feel and feel of wet skin and hair as well as the feel and feel of the re-dried skin or hair, which is also perceived as "squeaky" audible The desired substantivity on the skin and the hair, on the other hand, may be troublesome for subsequent treatments, for example removal of the skin and hair may be a major problem at the time of the next cleansing and, after several treatment cycles, the skin may have an undesirably high gloss It can even happen that make-up and / or lipstick no longer adhere to the skin, which can impair the appearance of corrugated or stained hair Fullness and volume of the hairstyle can be adversely affected.

First since recently are completely novel polyammonium polysiloxane compounds are known in which the Siloxane substructures optionally via ammonium substructures with each other are connected. Such compounds and their use in cosmetic Means are described, for example, in published patent application WO 02/10257 described. Except the principal use of these new amino-functional silicones and quite general examples, in which generally the most important Representatives of the raw materials used in cosmetic products like a list listed are not the slightest indication of the synergistic Effects of the present invention, in particular the synergistic Effect with ester oils.

It has now, however, completely surprising shown that a drug combination of at least one silicone and at least one other ester oil the disadvantages described of the prior art in an excellent way fixes and completely achieved particularly advantageous effects. This can be the effect the active ingredient combination according to the invention still be substantially increased if continued to select a raw material Groups of polymers, natural products and natural analogues Substances, fatty substances or surface-active substances, in particular the mild surfactant Substances, is used. When using this combination it comes to a surprise good properties of the treated skin and hair, in particular to improved combabilities of wet and dry hair, to improved shine of skin and hair, to an improved elasticity of skin and hair, to a significantly increased wash resistance colored Hair, as well as a longer one Durability of the hairstyles with a simultaneous better forming performance in corrugations like water wave and perm, to a long-lasting increase the volume of treated hair, to a significantly better Deposition of polymers, in particular cationic and amphoteric Polymers on the skin and hair, significantly increased deposition of agents such as antidandruff agents, metal amino acid complexes and UV filters on the skin and hair, for increased deposition and extended at the same time Effect of perfume oils on the skin and the hair, to smooth the outer structure of the skin and Hair, for an improved and long-lasting regulation of moisture content of skin and hair, to an increased Penetration of drugs with a molecular weight less than 1000 D in skin and hair, to an increased compatibility of cosmetic formulations, to influence the foam structure, the foam density, the foam volume and the foam feel of foaming cosmetic preparations. This is even more surprising than any before mentioned care substances, such as UV protectants, polymers, surfactants, etc. complain and strain the hair. It arises so despite a good care after a short while, the impression that the hair is strained greasy, stringy and without volume and elasticity. It is here that the active ingredient combination according to the invention is quite distinctive especially out. Active ingredients such as UV protection filters, etc. are good on the hair or skin, but that does not happen previously described effect of the stressed hair. Much more No greasy-looking, over-care hair is obtained.

• a) mindestens einer Polysiloxan Verbindung mit einer Viskosität von 0,1 cSt bis 5000 cSt und
• b)mindestens einem Esteröl, welches aus einer C6 bis C30 Fettsäure und einem C2 bis C30 Alkohol aufgebaut ist.

A first subject of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising a combination of active ingredients

• a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and
• b) at least one ester oil, which is composed of a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol.

One further outstanding effect of the active ingredient combination according to the invention shows The fact that in particular UV protection filter particularly evenly Tighten the hair or skin without causing a strain of skin or hair comes. The effect of the UV protection filter is thereby elevated, so that while maintaining the UV-protective effect a lower Concentration of UV protection filter can be used. At the same time, especially the hair becomes clear better maintained without being burdened. The hair does not look greasy or oily, and although both active ingredients clearly have a fatty, oily character exhibit. This is precisely why in the past such Combinations avoided. At the same time, the treated with it Hair despite the applied UV filter fabrics both in dry as well as easy to comb in wet hair and easy to style with a long-lasting volume and elasticity without one brittle Appearance.

• a) mindestens einer Polysiloxan Verbindung mit einer Viskosität von 0,1 cSt bis 5000 cSt und
• b) mindestens einem Esteröl, welches aus einer C6 bis C30 Fettsäure und einem C2 bis C30 Alkohol aufgebaut ist,

zur Erhöhung der Wirkung von UV-Schutzfiltern auf Haaren.A second subject of the present invention is therefore the use of a drug combination containing

• a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and
• b) at least one ester oil which is composed of a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol,

to increase the effect of UV protection filters on hair.

The Ingredients a) and b) are described in detail below. As far as below the active ingredient complex (A) is spoken refers this statement on the two in the inventive compositions mandatory ingredients from a) and b).

When Ingredient a) the agents according to the invention contain at least one Polysiloxane compound, which is constructed as described below is.

The first class of substances which is contained in the described synergistic combination of active substances (A) according to the invention as active ingredient a) are polysiloxane compounds or, more simply, also silicone oils (S). Silicone oils cause a wide variety of effects. For example, at the same time they influence the dry and wet combability, the grip of dry and wet hair and the shine. The term silicone oils is understood by the person skilled in the art to mean several structures of organosilicon compounds. Initially, these are understood to mean the dimethiconols (S1). Dimethiconols form the first group of silicones which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethiconols according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethiconols can be represented by the following structural formula (S1-I): (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiOHR ¹ ₂ ) (S1-I)

Branched dimethiconols can be represented by the structural formula (S1-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cSt measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt. The most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt. The most preferred range is between 1 cSt and 50 cSt.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the dimethiconols may already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethiconols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethiconols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of the dimethiconols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Vol lume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

If the dimethiconols of the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethiconols, this is to be understood as meaning that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethiconols understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched Dimethiconole very particularly be preferred.

When examples for Such products are called the following commercial products: Botanisil NU-150M (Botanigenics), Dow Coming 1-1254 Fluid, Dow Corning 2-9023 Fluid, Dow Coming 2-9026 Fluid, Ultrapure Dimethiconol (Ultra Chemical), Unisil SF-R (Universal Preserve), X-21-5619 (Shin-Etsu Chemical Co.), Abil OSW 5 (Degussa Care Specialties), ACC DL-9430 Emulsion (Taylor Chemical Company), AEC Dimethiconol & Sodium Dodecylbenzenesulfonate (A & E Connock (Perfumery & Cosmetics) Ltd.), B C Dimethiconol Emulsion 95 (Basildon Chemical Company, Ltd.), Cosmetic Fluid 1401, Cosmetic Fluid 1403, Cosmetic Fluid 1501, Cosmetic Fluid 1401DC (all of the aforementioned Chemsil Silicones, Inc.), Dow Corning 1401 Fluid, Dow Corning 1403 Fluid, Dow Corning 1501 Fluid, Dow Corning 1784 HVF Emulsion, Dow Corning 9546 Silicone Elastomer Blend (all aforementioned Dow Corning Corporation), Dub Gel SI 1400 (Stearinerie Dubois Fils), HVM 4852 Emulsion (Crompton Corporation), Jeesilc 6056 (Jeen International Corporation), Lubrasil, Lubrasil DS (both Guardian Laboratories), Nonychosine E, Nonychosine V (both Exsymol), SanSurf Petrolatum-25, Satin Finish (both Collaborative Laboratories, Inc.), Silatex-D30 (Cosmetic Ingredient Resources), Silsoft 148, Silsoft E-50, Silsoft E-623 (all previously mentioned Crompton Corporation), SM555, SM2725, SM2765, SM2785 (all previously mentioned GE Silicones), Taylor T-Sil CD-1, Taylor TME-4050E (all Taylor Chemical Company), TH V 148 (Crompton Corporation), Tixogel CYD-1429 (Sud-Chemie Performance Additives), Wacker-Belsil CM 1000, Wacker-Belsil CM 3092, Wacker-Belsil CM 5040, Wacker-Belsil DM 3096, Wacker-Belsil DM 3112 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 8005 VP, Wacker-Belsil DM 60081 VP (all aforementioned Wacker-Chemie GmbH).

The Dimethiconols (S1) are present in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight Dimethiconol based on the composition.

It is according to the invention also possible, the dimethiconols have their own phase in the compositions according to the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition is immediate before use by shaking homogenized at short notice. In this case, the amount may be Dimethiconol up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 % By weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicones (S2) form the second group of silicones, which are particularly preferred according to the invention. The dimethicones according to the invention can be both linear and branched as well as cyclic or cyclic and branched. Linear dimethicones can be represented by the following structural formula (S2-I): (SiR ¹ ₃ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₃ ) (S2-I)

Branched dimethicones can be represented by the structural formula (S2-II):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 0.1 and 500 cSt measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities lie between 0 , 1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt. The most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt. The most preferred range is between 1 cSt and 50 cSt.

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also that the dimethicones can already be present as an emulsion. there the corresponding emulsion of dimethicones can be used both after Preparation of the corresponding dimethicones from these and the Professional known usual Process for emulsification are produced. For this purpose, as Auxiliaries for producing the corresponding emulsions both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers are used as adjuvants. Of course, the Emulsions of Dimethicone also directly by an emulsion polymerization getting produced. Such methods are also well-known to those skilled in the art known. For example, refer to the "Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, Pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated by reference.

If the dimethicones of the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, most preferably 0.01 to 20 microns, and most preferably 0.01 up to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicones, so to understand it that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethicones understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1% and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention both Low branched as well as highly branched dimethicones in particular be preferred.

The Dimethicones (S2) are present in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight Dimethiconone based on the composition.

According to the invention, it is also possible that the dimethicones have their own phase in the erfindungsge form compositions. In this case, it may be appropriate to homogenize the composition shortly before use by shaking it in the short term. In this case, the amount of dimethicone may be up to 40% by weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition.

Dimethicone copolyols (S3) form another group of preferred silicones. Dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the following structural formulas: (SiR ¹ ₃₎ -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (Sirpe-O-) _y (SiR ¹ ₃₎ (S3-I) or by the following structural formula: PE- (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -O- (SiR ² ₂ -O-) _x - (SiR ¹ ₂ ) -PE (S3-II)

oder durch die Strukturformel (S3-IV):

Branched dimethicone copolyols can be represented by the structural formula (S3-III):

or by the structural formula (S3-IV):

The radicals R ¹ and R ² are each independently hydrogen, a methyl radical, a C ² to C 30 linear, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon radical, a phenyl radical and / or an aryl radical. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R ¹ and R ² include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, pentyl, isopentyl, neopentyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; Preferably, R ¹ and R ^{2 is} an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R ¹ and R ^{2 are} methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ - , -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, C ₆ Ha ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -. Preferred as R ¹ and R ² are methyl, phenyl and C ² to C 22 alkyl radicals. Of the C2 to C22 alkyl radicals, lauryl, stearyl and behenyl radicals are particularly preferred. PE stands for a polyoxyalkylene radical. Preferred polyoxyalkylene radicals are derived from ethylene oxide, propylene oxide and glycerol. The numbers x, y and z are integers and each run independently from 0 to 50,000. The molecular weights of the dimethicones are between 1000 D and 10,000,000 D. The viscosities are between 100 and 10,000,000 cSt measured at 25 ° C. with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer according to the Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM 0004 of 20 July 1970. Preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt. The most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt. The most preferred range is between 1 cSt and 50 cSt.

Of course, the teaching of the invention also includes that the Dimethiconcopolymere be can already be present as an emulsion. In this case, the corresponding emulsion of the dimethicone copolyols can be prepared both after the preparation of the corresponding dimethicone copolyols from these and the usual methods of emulsification known to the person skilled in the art. For this purpose, both cationic, anionic, nonionic or zwitterionic surfactants and emulsifiers can be used as auxiliaries for the preparation of the corresponding emulsions. Of course, the emulsions of dimethicone copolyols can also be prepared directly by an emulsion polymerization process. Such methods are also well known to the person skilled in the art. For example, reference may be made to the Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pages 204 to 308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc. 1989. This reference is expressly incorporated herein by reference.

If the dimethicone copolyols according to the invention used as an emulsion, then the droplet size of the emulsified particles According to the invention 0.01 microns to 10,000 microns, preferably 0.01 to 100 μm, whole more preferably 0.01 to 20 microns and most preferably 0.01 to 10 μm. The particle size is determined by the method of light scattering.

Become used branched dimethicone copolyols, it is to be understood as that the branching is bigger, as a random one Branching caused by contamination of the respective monomers fortuitously arises. In the sense of the present connection is therefore under branched Dimethicone copolyols understand that the degree of branching is greater than 0.01% is. Preferably, a degree of branching is greater than 0.1 % and most preferably greater than 0.5%. The degree of Branching is calculated from the ratio of unbranched monomers, this means the amount of monofunctional siloxane, to the branching monomers, this means the amount of tri- and tetrafunctional siloxanes. According to the invention, both low-branched as well as highly branched dimethicone copolyols very particularly preferred be.

The Dimethicone copolyols (S3) are in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.01 to 8% by weight, particularly preferably 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 5 % By weight of dimethicone copolyol based on the composition.

It is according to the invention also possible, the dimethicone copolyols have their own phase in the compositions according to the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition Homogenized by shaking briefly before use becomes. In this case, the amount of dimethicone copolyol can be up to 40 wt.%, Preferably in amounts of up to 25 wt.% Based on the Total composition.

Amino-functional Silicones or amodimethicones (S4) are called silicones which have at least one (optionally substituted) amino group.

Such silicones may, for. By the formula (S4-I) M (R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-AA) / 2x} (R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2) y} M (S4-I)

Will be described, wherein in the above formula R is a hydrocarbon or a hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, Q is a polar radical of the general formula -R ¹ HZ, wherein R ^{1 is} a divalent connecting group attached to hydrogen and the Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one amino-functional group, carbon and hydrogen atoms, carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms or carbon, hydrogen and nitrogen atoms; "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 1 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c" is a number in the range from about 1 to about 3, and x is a number ranging from 1 to about 2,000, preferably from about 3 to about 50, and most preferably from about 3 to about 25, and y is a number ranging from about 20 to about 10,000 , preferably from about 125 to about 10,000, and most preferably from about 150 to about 1,000, and M is a suitable silicone end group as known in the art, preferably trimethylsiloxy. Non-limiting examples of the groups represented by R include alkyl groups such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, isopropyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl, amyl, isoamyl, hexyl, isohexyl and the like; Alkenyl radicals such as vinyl, halovinyl, alkylvinyl, allyl, haloallyl, alkylallyl; Cycloalkyl radicals such as cyclobutyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl and the like; Phenyl radicals, benzyl radicals, halohydrocarbon radicals such as 3-chloropropyl, 4-bromobutyl, 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl, chlorocyclohexyl, bromophenyl, chlorophenyl and the like, and sulfur-containing radicals such as mercaptoethyl, mercaptopropyl, mercaptohexyl, mercaptophenyl and the like; preferably R is an alkyl radical containing from 1 to about 6 carbon atoms, and most preferably R is methyl. Examples of R ¹ include methylene, ethylene, propylene, hexamethylene, decamethylene, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ -, phenylene, naphthylene, -CH ₂ CH ₂ SCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -OCH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) C (O) OCH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CC (O) OCH ₂ CH ₂ -, -C ₆ H ₄ C ₆ H ₄ -, -C ₆ H ₄ CH ₂ C ₆ H ₄ -; and - (CH ₂ ) ₃ C (O) SCH ₂ CH ₂ -.

Z is an organic, amino-functional radical containing at least one functional amino group. A possible formula for Z is NH (CH ₂ ) _z NH ₂ , wherein z is 1 or more. Another possible formula for Z is -NH (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NH, wherein both z and zz are independently 1 or more, which structure includes diamino ring structures, such as piperazinyl. Z is most preferably a -NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ radical. Another possible formula for Z is -N (CH ₂ ) _z (CH ₂ ) _zz NX ₂ or -NX ₂ , wherein each X of X _{2 is} independently selected from the group consisting of hydrogen and alkyl groups of 1 to 12 carbon atoms, and zz is 0.

Q is most preferably a polar, amino-functional radical of the formula -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCH ₂ CH ₂ NH ₂ . In the formulas, "a" assumes values in the range of about 0 to about 2, "b" assumes values in the range of about 2 to about 3, "a" + "b" is less than or equal to 3, and "c "is a number in the range of about 1 to about 3.

The molar ratio of the R _a Q _b SiO _{(4-ab) / 2} units to the R _c SiO _{(4-c) / 2} units is in the range of about 1: 2 to 1:65, preferably about 1: From 5 to about 65:15 and most preferably from about 1:15 to about 1:20. When one or more silicones of the above formula are employed, then the various variable substituents in the above formula may be for the various silicone components present in the silicone blend , to be different.

• – G ist -H, eine Phenylgruppe, -OH, -O-CH₃, -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃;
• – a steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 3, insbesondere 0;
• – b steht für eine Zahl zwischen 0 und 1, insbesondere 1,
• – m und n sind Zahlen, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt,
• – R' ist ein monovalenter Rest ausgewählt aus – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N(R'')₂ – -N(R'')₂ – -N⁺(R'')₃A^- – -N⁺H(R'')₂A^- – -N⁺H₂(R'')A^- – -N(R'')-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺R''H₂A^-, wobei jedes R'' für gleiche oder verschiedene Reste aus der Gruppe-H, -Phenyl, -Benzyl, der C_1-20-Alkylreste, vorzugsweise -CH₃, -CH₂CH₃, -CH₂CH₂CH₃, -CH(CH₃)₂, -CH₂CH₂CH₂H₃, -CH₂CH(CH₃)₂, -CH(CH₃)CH₂CH₃, -C(CH₃)₃, steht und A ein Anion repräsentiert, welches vorzugsweise ausgewählt ist aus Chlorid, Bromid, Iodid oder Methosulfat.

Preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-II) R _'a G _3-a -Si (OSiG _{2) n} - (OSiG _b R' _{2-b) m} -O-SiG _3-a -R _'a (S4-II), contain, in which means:

• G is -H, a phenyl group, -OH, -O-CH ₃ , -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ ;
• A is a number between 0 and 3, in particular 0;
• B is a number between 0 and 1, in particular 1,
• M and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n is preferably values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10,
• R 'is a monovalent radical selected from --N (R'') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N (R'') ₂ - -N (R'') ₂ - -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^{- -} - N ⁺ H (R '') ₂ A ^{- -} - N ⁺ H ₂ (R '') A ^- - - N (R '') - CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N ⁺ R''H ₂ A ^- , wherein each R '' represents the same or different radicals from the group -H, -phenyl, -benzyl, the C _1-20 -alkyl radicals, preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , -CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ H ₃ , -CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) ₂ , -CH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ CH ₃ , -C (CH ₃ ) ₃ and A represents an anion, which is preferably selected from chloride, bromide, iodide or methosulfate.

enthalten, worin m und n Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei n vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Particularly preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-III)

in which m and n are numbers whose sum (m + n) is between 1 and 2000, preferably between 50 and 150, where n preferably values of 0 to 1999 and in particular of 49 to 149 and m preferably values of 1 to 2000 , in particular from 1 to 10 assumes.

These Silicones are classified as trimethylsilylamodimethicones according to the INCI declaration designated.

enthalten, worin R für -OH, -O-CH₃ oder eine -CH₃-Gruppe steht und m, n1 und n2 Zahlen sind, deren Summe (m + n1 + n2) zwischen 1 und 2000, vorzugsweise zwischen 50 und 150 beträgt, wobei die Summe (n1 + n2) vorzugsweise Werte von 0 bis 1999 und insbesondere von 49 bis 149 und m vorzugsweise Werte von 1 bis 2000, insbesondere von 1 bis 10 annimmt.Agents according to the invention which are characterized in that they contain an amino-functional silicone of the formula (S4-IV) are also particularly preferred.

in which R is -OH, -O-CH ₃ or a -CH ₃ group and m, n1 and n2 are numbers whose sum (m + n1 + n2) is between 1 and 2,000, preferably between 50 and 150 , where the sum (n1 + n2) preferably assumes values from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m preferably values from 1 to 2000, in particular from 1 to 10.

These Silicones are called amodimethicones according to the INCI declaration.

Independently of, which amino-functional silicones are used are agents according to the invention preferred in which the amino-functional silicone is an amine number above 0.25 meq / g, preferably above 0.3 meq / g and especially above 0.4 meq / g. The amine number is for the milli equivalents Amine per gram of amino-functional silicone. It can be done by titration determined and also in the unit mg KOH / g.

The Amodimethicones (S4) are present in the compositions of the invention in amounts from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight Amodimethicone based on the composition.

It is according to the invention also possible, the amodimethicones have their own phase in the compositions according to the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition Homogenized by shaking briefly before use becomes. In this case, the amount of amodimethicone can reach up to 40 % By weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition be.

The Invention includes of course also the finding that in the compositions according to the invention a Mixture of at least 2 different silicones used can be. Preferred mixtures of different silicones are, for example Dimethicones and dimethiconols, linear dimethicones and cyclic ones Dimethiconole. A very particularly preferred mixture of silicones consists of at least one cyclic dimethiconol and / or dimethicone, at least one other non-cyclic dimethicone and / or dimethiconol and at least one amino-functional silicone. Be different Silicones used as a mixture, so the mixing ratio is broad variable. However, all are preferably used for the mixture Silicones in a ratio from 5: 1 to 1: 5 in the case of a binary mixture. One relationship from 3: 1 to 1: 3 is particularly preferred. Very particularly preferred mixtures contain all the silicones contained in the mixture as much as possible in a relationship of about 1: 1, in each case based on the amounts used in wt.%.

If a mixture of at least two silicones is used so is this mixture in the compositions of the invention in amounts from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 8% by weight, especially preferably from 0.1 to 7.5% by weight and in particular from 0.1 to 5% by weight Silicone mixture based on the composition included.

It is according to the invention also possible, that the mixture of silicones has its own phase in the compositions according to the invention form. In this case, it may be appropriate if the composition Homogenized by shaking briefly before use becomes. In this case, the amount of silicone mixture can reach up to 40 % By weight, preferably in amounts of up to 25% by weight, based on the total composition be.

Under Polysiloxane according to the invention is also a Polyammonium polysiloxane compound Understood.

• a1) mindestens eine Polyalkylenoxid-Struktureinheit der allgemeinen Formeln: -A-E-, -E-A-, -A-E-A'- und/oder -A'-E-A-, worin: A steht für eine der Gruppen: -CH₂C(O)O-, -CH₂CH₂C(O)O-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂C(O)O-, -OC(O)CH₂-, -OC(O)CH₂CH₂- und/oder -OC(O)CH₂CH₂CH₂-, A' bedeutet: -CH₂C(O)-, -CH₂CH₂C(O)-, -CH₂CH₂CH₂C(O)-, -C(O)CH₂-, -C(O)CH₂CH₂- und/oder -C(O)CH₂CH₂CH₂- und E steht für eine Polyalkylenoxidgruppe der allgemeinen Formeln: -[CH₂CH₂O]_q-[CH₂CH(CH₃)O]_r- und/oder -[OCH(CH₃)CH₂]_r,-[OCH₂CH₂]_q-, mit q = 1 bis 200 und r = 0 bis 200, wobei das endständige Sauerstoffatom der Gruppe A an die endständige -CH₂-Gruppe der Gruppe E, und das endständige Carbonylkohlenstoffatom der Gruppe A' an das endständige Sauerstoffatom Gruppe E jeweils unter Ausbildung von Estergruppen binden, und/oder mindestens eine endständige Polyalkylenoxid-Struktureinheit der Formel -A-E-R², worin A und E die oben genannte Bedeutung aufweisen, und R² steht für H, geradkettiger, cyclischer oder verzweigter C₁-C₂₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, oder -C(O)unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert und acetylenisch, olefinisch oder aromatisch sein kann,
• a2) mindestens ein zweiwertiger oder dreiwertiger organischer Rest, der mindestens eine Ammoniumgruppe enthält,
• a3) mindestens eine Polysiloxan-Struktureinheit der allgemeinen Formel: -K-S-K-, worin S steht für -Si(R¹)₂-O[-Si(R¹)₂-O]_n-Si(R¹)₂- und worin R¹ steht für C₁-C₂₂-Alkyl, C₁-C₂₂-Fluoralkyl oder Aryl, n steht für 0 bis 1000, und wenn mehrere Gruppen S in der Polysiloxanverbindung vorliegen, diese gleich oder verschieden sein können, worin K ein zweiwertiger oder dreiwertiger geradkettiger, cyclischer oder verzweigter C₂-C₄₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, -N-, -NR¹-, -C(O)-, -C(S)-, -N⁺(R³)- und -N⁺(R¹)(R³)- unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert sein kann, worin R¹ wie oben definiert ist, oder gegebenenfalls eine Bindung zu einem zweiwertigen Rest R³ darstellt, und worin R³ einen einwertigen oder zweiwertigen geradkettigen, cyclischen oder verzweigten C₁-C₂₀-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, der durch -O-, -NH-, -C(O)-, -C(S)- unterbrochen und mit -OH substituiert sein kann, oder -A-E-R² darstellt, worin A, E und R wie oben definiert ist, wobei die Reste K gleich oder verschieden voneinander sein können, und im Falle, dass K einen dreiwertigen Rest darstellt, die Absättigung der dritten Valenz über eine Bindung an den vorstehend genannten organischen Rest, der mindestens eine Ammoniumgruppe enthält, erfolgt,
• a4) einen organischen oder anorganischen Säurerest zur Neutralisation der aus der(n) Ammoniumgruppe(n) resultierenden Ladungen.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds contain:

• a1) at least one polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA-, wherein: A is one of the groups: -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, A 'means: -CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C ( O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and E is a polyalkylene oxide group of the general formulas: [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] _r , - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q -, with q = 1 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, wherein the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ group of the group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A 'to the terminal oxygen atom group E each with formation of Bind ester groups, and / or at least one terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER ² , wherein A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ² is H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, by -O-, or -C (O) may be interrupted and substituted with -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic,
• a2) at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical containing at least one ammonium group,
• a3) at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-, in which S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - and in which R ¹ is C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ - C _{22 is} fluoroalkyl or aryl, n is 0 to 1000, and when there are several groups S in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different, where K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical, represented by -O-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) - and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ¹ is as defined above, or optionally a bond to a bivalent radical R ³ represents and wherein R ³ is a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R are as defined above, wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K represents a trivalent radical, the saturation of the third valence via a bond to the abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group takes place,
• a4) an organic or inorganic acid radical for neutralizing the charges resulting from the (n) ammonium group (s).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are characterized in that they are as defined above Components a1) to a4) have. The polysiloxane compounds are thereby by binding of the mentioned structural units or residues a1) to a3) formed together. Component a4) serves for neutralization the positive charges resulting from component a2).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can Be oligomeric or polymeric compounds. Oligomeric compounds shut down also the case described below, wherein the polysiloxane compound has only one repeat unit.

polymers polysiloxane compounds according to the invention naturally arise through alternating linkage of divalent radicals.

in the Case of the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention result in the terminal atomic groupings from the terminal Atomic groupings of the starting materials used. This is the person skilled in the known.

In a preferred embodiment, the polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are linear polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are composed of the structural components a1) to a3). Thus, the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, in particular dere whose formed from the repeat units linear polymeric backbone, by alternating juxtaposition of polyalkylene oxide structural units a1), organic radicals containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium group a2) and polysiloxane structural units a3) are constructed. That is, the optionally present in the structural components beyond free valences (as may occur in trivalent radicals as component a2) or trivalent radicals K) are preferably not used to build polymeric side chains or polymeric branches.

In a further embodiment may be the backbone of the linear polymeric polysiloxane compounds of this invention of the organic radicals containing at least one ammonium group a2) and the polysiloxane structural units a3), and the polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) bind as side chains to the trivalent organic ammonium group residue.

For example, the following structures can result:
- (polyalkylene oxide structural unit-polysiloxane structural unit-polyalkylene oxide structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium ammonium radical) _x -
- (polysiloxane structural unit - preferably quaternary ammonium group radical) x-polyalkylene oxide structural unit) _x -

Depending on the molar ratio of the monomeric starting compounds, polysiloxane compounds according to the invention may result which have only one repeating unit. This is known per se to the person skilled in the art. This case leads, for example, to inventive polysiloxane compounds of the structure:
(terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit-quaternary ammonium group-residual polysiloxane structural unit-quaternary ammonium group-terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit).

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention preferably consist essentially of the components a1) to a4), wherein the polymeric polysiloxane compounds of the invention naturally from the Reaction of the monomeric starting materials resulting terminal Have groups. It can but also monofunctional chain terminator can be used.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a) may be divalent radicals of the general formulas: -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A'- and / or -A'-EA- act.

The rest A means:
-CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-, -OC (O) CH ₂ -, -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -OC (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -

The rest A 'means:
-CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) -, -C (O) CH ₂ -, -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ - and / or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -.

The polyalkylene oxide group E of the general formulas: - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r and / or - [OCH (CH ₃ ) CH ₂ ] _r - [OCH ₂ CH ₂ ] _q with q = 1 or 2 to 200 and r = 0 to 200, include all possible ethylene oxide / propylene oxide groups. Such may be random ethylene oxide / propylene oxide copolymer groups or ethylene oxide / propylene oxide block copolymer groups with any arrangement of one or more ethylene oxide or propylene oxide blocks.

The attachment of the radicals A or A 'to the group E is carried out so that the terminal oxygen atom of group A to the terminal -CH ₂ group of group E, and the terminal carbonyl carbon of group A' to the terminal oxygen atom Group E, each training Es bind tergruppen.

The polyalkylene oxide structural units a1) can furthermore be a monovalent, ie terminal polyalkylene oxide structural unit of the formula -AER ² in which A and E have the abovementioned meaning, and R ^{2 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ - C ₂₀ - hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted with -OH and acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The component a2) from which the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention are composed is at least one divalent or trivalent organic radical which contains at least one ammonium group. The bond of the radical to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention is preferably carried out via the nitrogen atom of one or more ammonium groups in the organic radical. The term "divalent" or "trivalent" means that the organic ammonium radical to form bonds in particular to the other components of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention has two or three free valences. The ammonium radical is expediently represented by an NH ₄ ⁺ group in which at least two hydrogen atoms are substituted by organic groups. Preferably, it is a secondary or quaternary, more preferably a quaternary ammonium group. A quaternary ammonium group is by general definition (see, for example, Römpp Chemie Lexikon) a group in which all four hydrogen atoms of an NH ₄ ⁺ group are replaced by organic radicals.

The component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention is at least one polysiloxane structural unit of the general formula: -KSK-,

S is a polysiloxane group of the general formula -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -, wherein R1 is C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl or aryl, preferably phenyl, n = 0 to 1000, and when there are several S groups in the polysiloxane compound, they may be the same or different.

R ¹ is preferably C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₁₈ fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R1 is preferably C ₁ -C ₁₈ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -fluoroalkyl and aryl. Furthermore, R ^{1 is} preferably C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -fluoroalkyl, more preferably C ₁ -C ₄ -fluoroalkyl, and phenyl. More preferably, R ^{1 is} methyl, ethyl, trifluoropropyl and phenyl.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl" in the context of the present invention means that the aliphatic hydrocarbon groups have 1 to 22 carbon atoms, which may be straight-chain or branched. Examples include methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, iso-propyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3 trimethylhexyl listed.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl" in the context of the present invention means aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2-trifluorobutyl.

The term "aryl" in the context of the present invention means unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF ₃ C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ -C ₇ -cycloalkyl C ₂ C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

K represents a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, C (O) -, -C (S) -, -N ⁺ (R ³ ) -, -NR ¹ -, and -N ⁺ (R ¹ ) (R ³ ) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

"Interrupted" means that in the case of divalent radicals a -CH ₂ grouping in the case of the trivalent radicals a -CH grouping of the hydrocarbon radical are replaced by said groups. This also applies to the rest of the description, if this name is used.

The Group K binds over a carbon atom to the silicon atom of the group S.

The group K can, as seen above, also preferably have quaternary ammonium groups, so that ammonium groups in addition to the ammonium groups in said component a2) result in the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can, such as in the. Have radical K, amino groups. The implementation the polysiloxane compounds of the invention with acids leads to their protonation. Such protonated amino groups having Polysiloxane compounds are within the scope of the present invention contain.

The Binding of component a3), the polysiloxane structural unit -K-S-K-, to the rest Construction components over the rest K preferably does not take place via a nitrogen atom of the Remainder K.

R ¹ is as defined above or optionally represents a bond to a divalent radical R ³ , so that a cycle results.

R ³ represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may be, or -AER ² , wherein A, E and R ^{2 are} as defined above.

The Remains K can be the same or different from each other, and in the case that K is one represents trivalent residue, the saturation of the third valence occurs via a Binding to the above-mentioned organic radical which is at least contains an ammonium group.

The polysiloxane compounds according to the invention also contain the component a4), at least one organic or inorganic anionic acid radical for the neutralization of the ammonium group (s) resulting from the (n) Charges. Organic or inorganic acid radicals are radicals that are formal from the cleavage of one or more protons from organic or inorganic acids result and close for example, a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide, sulfates, Nitrates, phosphates, carboxylates such as formate, acetate, propionate etc., sulfonates, sulfates, polyether carboxylates and polyether sulfates etc. Chloride is preferred. The organic or inorganic anionic acid residues as component a4) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention can be the same or different from each other. So result from the Reaction of the amines with alkyl halides preferably halide ions, while for example, carboxylates from the carboxylic acids used in the reaction of bisepoxides with amines can result.

In a preferred embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention, K is a bivalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -NR ¹ -, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above, and wherein the radicals K may be the same or different from each other.

The abovementioned organic radical which contains at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group is preferably a radical of the general formula: -N ¹ -FN ¹ -, wherein N ¹ is a quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ⁴⁾ N ⁺ (R ⁵⁾ -, wherein R ⁴ represents a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, and R ⁵ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O -, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁴ or a tetravalent radical F, and the radicals R ⁴ and R ⁵ within the group -N ¹ -FN ¹ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S , wherein for S the above-mentioned references apply, can be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula -N ¹ -FN ¹ - (preferred embodiments, etc.), refer to the explanations of the first embodiment of the present invention for component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds in which this group is realized. which are also valid in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, group may further preferably a radical of the general formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - be, in which R ^{6 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-,
-C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, or R ⁶ represents a single bond to a trivalent radical K.

R ⁷ is a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH- -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning, or a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁶ or to a trivalent radical K.

The radicals R ⁶ and R ⁷ may be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the quaternary ammonium group of formula - (R ⁶ ) N ⁺ (R ⁷ ) - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the second, third and fourth embodiment to the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, component a), of Reference is made to present active substance complex according to the invention, in which this group is realized, and which also have validity in this more general context.

The aforementioned organic radical containing at least one ammonium group may further preferably be a radical of the general formula: Be -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - wherein N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²⁵ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) - is in which R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH or is a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - and in the polysiloxane compound may be identical or different from each other,
F ^{1 represents} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched -N hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -N-, -C (S) - or by a group -E- can be,
and wherein a plurality of the groups N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

For further details of the definitions of the ammonium group of formula -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - (preferred embodiments), reference is made to the explanations of the fifth embodiment of component a, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds of the present invention, in which this group is exemplified is, and which are also valid in this more general context.

in the the following are the components a) of the active substance complex according to the invention, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, based on five preferred embodiments closer to these connections described.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds (which will be referred to as the first embodiment of component a) of the active ingredient complex), wherein the aforementioned organic radical containing at least one, preferably quaternary ammonium, as component a2) of the polysiloxane compounds according to the invention a radical the general formula: -N ¹ -FN ¹ is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the following general formula (I): - [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ] m- (I) where m = 2 to 500,
B is -AEKSKEA- and additionally, if appropriate, -AE-A'- or -A'-EA-,
wherein S, K, -AE-, -EA-, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA and -N ¹ -FN ¹ - are as defined above, and the proportion of the group -AE-A' - or -A'-EA- in the group B may be chosen so that the mass of -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- from 0 to 90%, preferably 0% or 0.1 to 50% of the mass of the polysiloxane S in the polymer.

The first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds preferably relates to linear alkylene-oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (I ') - [BN ¹ -FN ¹ ], - (I) where m is 2 to 500,
B-EKSKEA,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -
R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n 0 to 1000,
K is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH can
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -,
q 1 to 200,
r 0 to 200 and
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-,
N ^{1 is} a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ⁴ ) N ⁺ (R ⁵ ) -
R ^{4 represents} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by O-, -NH, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and. may be substituted with -OH
R ^{5 represents} R ⁴ or a single bond to R ⁴ or F,
F is a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -, a siloxane chain S where S is the same as above, interrupted and substituted with -OH
can.

The possibility of a tetravalent substructure for F means that F can form a branched or ring system with the limiting N ¹ , so that F then participates with two bonds at each quaternization of both limiting N ¹ . For a more detailed illustration, reference is made to the published patent application WO 02/10257, in particular to Example 1 therein.

In a further embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds, the possibility of a divalent substructure for R ^{4 means} that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure in which R ⁵ in this case is a single bond to R ⁴ . Examples are morpholinyl and piperidinyl structures.

More preferred embodiments this so-called first embodiment of the invention and process for the preparation of said polysiloxane compounds of the formula (I) or (I ') are described below.

R ⁴ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁴ , wherein R ^{14 is} a straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbyl radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

bilden.As mentioned above, R ⁴ and R ⁵ can also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

form.

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds can be referred to the above statements.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{4 is} preferably a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ , more preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ , hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O may be interrupted and substituted by -OH, more preferably a C ₃ - -) -, -C (S) C ₁₆ hydrocarbon radical, interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ - (, -C O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 has} the abovementioned meaning.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, F is preferably a divalent or tetravalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S), a siloxane chain S, where S is the above-mentioned references, interrupted and can be substituted with -OH.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₄ -, - (CH ₂ ) ₆ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ -, and - CH = CHCH ₂ -.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, R ^{14 is} preferably unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₁₇ -hydrocarbon radicals derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

In the so-called first embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds which are used in the present invention as active ingredients a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, R ¹⁴ furthermore preferably represents hydroxylated radicals from the group consisting

In the so-called first embodiment the polysiloxane compounds is m 2 to 100, preferably 2 to 50.

In the so-called first embodiment the polysiloxane compound is n 0 to 1000, preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 80 and more preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention q is 1 to 200, preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20 and more preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called first embodiment of the invention is from 0 to 200, preferably from 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20.

to Preparation of the polysiloxane-polyammonium according to the invention Compounds of both this first embodiment and all others preferred embodiments the polysiloxane-polyammonium compounds according to the invention a) the active substance complex according to the invention be explicitly referred to the publication WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (II), R ² -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ² (II) wherein
S, K, -AE-, -EA- and R ^{2 have} the meanings given above, and
N ^{2 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) - is in which R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH .
R ^{9 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH, or represents a single bond to a divalent radical R ⁸ or to a trivalent radical K, and the radicals R ⁸ and R ⁹ within the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (II) may be identical or different from one another.

Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the second embodiment are (α, ω-alkylene oxide and polyquaternary modified polysiloxanes of the general formula (II '), R ¹⁶ -EAN ² -KSKN ² -AER ¹⁶ (II ')

What the names stand for,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) -
with R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n is 0 to 1000,
K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -N-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -C (O) -, -C (S) - interrupted and substituted with -OH,
N ^{2 is} a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ⁸ ) N ⁺ (R ⁹ ) - R ^{8 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
R ⁹ R ⁸ or a single bond to K or R ⁸ ,
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r - q 1 to 200
r 0 to 200 and
R ¹⁶ H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and -OH and be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means here that K can be branched and then participates with two bonds in the quaternization of N ² . The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ⁸ means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{9 is} then a single bond to R ² .

R ⁸ is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCO-R ¹⁷ ,
wherein R ^{17 is} a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH ,

bilden.As mentioned above, R ⁸ and R ⁹ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

form.

Among the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds may be to the above. to get expelled.

In the so-called second embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ₁ -, -N-, -C (O ) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, wherein R ^{1 is} as defined above.

Preferred for K are, for example, radicals of the following structures: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

R ⁸ is preferably a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O), -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can.

R ¹⁶ is preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic or olefinic.

Furthermore, R ^{16 is} preferably C ₅ -C ₁₇ -alkyl, -CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ , -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .

R ¹⁷ preferably represents unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₁₇ -hydrocarbon radicals which are derived from the corresponding fatty acids or hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals which can be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably to saccharidecarboxylic acids.

ausgewählt.R ¹⁷ is particularly preferably selected from the group

selected.

In the so-called second embodiment Of the polysiloxane compounds, n is preferably 0 to 200, more preferably 0 to 80, more preferably 10 to 80.

In the so-called second embodiment Of the polysiloxane compounds, q is preferably 1 to 50, more preferably 2 to 20, and more preferably 2 to 10.

In the so-called second embodiment Of the polysiloxane compounds, r is preferably 0 to 100 and more preferably 0 to 50.

In the so-called second embodiment of the invention, r is preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably 0 to 10.

to Preparation of the polysiloxane compounds of the invention the so-called second embodiment be on the explanations to the first preferred embodiment directed.

A particular embodiment of the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) as an essential constituent of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (III): - [KSKN ³ ] m- (III) where S, K and m are as defined above,
N ^{3 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹⁰ ) -N ⁺ (R ¹¹ ) wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
R ¹¹ is -AER ² , wherein -AER ^{2 has} the abovementioned meaning.

The polysiloxane compounds of the third embodiment are preferably alkylene oxide-modified polyparternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (III ') - [KSKN ³ ] m- (III '), where m is 2 to 500,
S is -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O- [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] _n -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -
with R ^{1 is} C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n = 0 to 1000,
N ^{3 is} a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ¹⁰ ) N ⁺ (R ¹¹ ) - wherein R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH may or is a single bond to K,
R ³ -AE- is, with
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- and
E for a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -R ¹⁸ q from 1 to 200,
r from 0 to 200,
R ^{18 is} H, straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and may be acetylenic, olefinic or aromatic, and
K is a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₄₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH or contains a quaternary ammonium structure N ⁵ , with
N ⁵ in the meaning of - (R ¹⁹ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁰ ) -
R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH or a single bond to R ¹⁰ , and R ^{20 is} -AE-, as defined above.

to Production of the Preferred Embodiments the so-called third embodiment the polysiloxane compounds should be explicitly as before Publication WO 02/10257 referenced.

R ¹⁰ and R ¹⁹ are independently of one another preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²¹ , wherein R ^{21 is} a straight, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

In one embodiment of the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds when a bivalent substructure for R ¹⁰ is a cyclic system-forming structure wherein R ¹⁰ then has a single bond to K, preferably to a tertiary amino structure or to the quaternary structure N ⁵ via R ¹⁹ .

The preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes can be referred to the above statements.

Preferably R ^{10 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can be.

Preferably, R ^{19 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₅ hydrocarbon radical which is interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH can be.

worin R²⁰ wie oben definiert ist.In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds, K is furthermore preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C ( O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is

wherein R ^{20 is} as defined above.

In the so-called third embodiment of the polysiloxanes, R ² or R ^{18 is} preferably a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O- or -C (O) - and substituted by -OH and by acetylenic or olefinic radicals can be. More preferably R ² or R ^{18 is} C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, -CH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CH (OH) CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH = CH ₂ , -CH ₂ CCH, -C (O) CH ₃ or -C (O) CH ₂ CH ₃ .

Preferably, R ^{21 is} an unsubstituted C ₅ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ₃ -C ₁₇ radicals derived from the group of hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

For example, R ²¹ is:

In the so-called third embodiment the polysiloxanes m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferred 2 to 50, n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferred 10 to 80, q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50 particularly preferred 2 to 20, and more preferably q is 2 to 10, r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, more preferably 0 to 20, and more preferably is r 0 to 10.

to Preparation of the invention in the Active ingredient combination to be used polysiloxane compounds of so-called third embodiment will be useful again refer to published patent application WO 02/10257.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes (which is referred to below as the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes to be used according to the invention) is represented by the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (IV): - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AE-A '] _m - or - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -A'-EA] _m - (IV) wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, and
N ^{4 is} an organic radical containing at least one quaternary ammonium group of the general formula - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - wherein R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH,
R ^{13 may have} the meanings of R ¹² , or represents a single bond to K or R ¹² , and the radicals R ¹² and R ^{13 may be the} same or different from each other.

Preferably, the polysiloxane compounds of the fourth embodiment are alkylene oxide-modified polyquaternary polysiloxanes of the general formula (IV '), - [N ⁴ -KSKN ⁴ -AEA] m- (IV ') where m = 2 to 500,
S -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O [-Si (R ¹ ) ₂ -O] -Si (R ¹ ) ₂ - wherein
R ¹ is C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₂₂ -fluoroalkyl or aryl,
n 0 to 1000,
K is a bivalent one. or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ , -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH can be substituted,
N is a quaternary ammonium structure - (R ¹² ) N ⁺ (R ¹³ ) - where R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ hydrocarbon radical represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted by -OH,
R ¹³ is R ¹² or a single bond to K or R ¹² ,
A is -CH ₂ C (O) O-, -CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O- or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ C (O) O-
E is a polyalkylene oxide unit of the structure - [CH ₂ CH ₂ O] _q - [CH ₂ CH (CH ₃ ) O] _r -
with q = 1 to 200 and
r = 0 to 200.

To the manufacturing process is referred to the previously executed.

More preferred embodiments this so-called fourth embodiment Polysiloxanes of the formula (IV) or (IV ') are described below.

The possibility of a trivalent substructure for K means that K can be branched and then be involved with two bonds in the quaternization of N ⁴ .

The possibility of a divalent substructure for R ¹² means that in these cases it is a cyclic-structure-forming structure, where R ^{13 is} then a single bond to R ¹² .

R ¹² is preferably -CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₂ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₃ CH ₃ , - (CH ₂ ) ₅ CH ₃ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, -CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² or -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ NHCOR ²² , in which R ²² denotes a straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH.

As mentioned above, R ¹² and R ¹³ may also together form a cyclic structure of the formulas

For the preferred meanings of R ¹ in the so-called fourth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, reference may be made to the above statements.

Preferably, R ^{12 is} a monovalent or divalent straight chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₁₆ hydrocarbyl radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted with -OH can be.

In the so-called fourth embodiment, K is preferably a divalent or trivalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₃ -C ₁₆ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -NR ¹ -, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - may be interrupted and substituted with -OH, more preferably K is -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CHOHCH ₂ - or

Preferably, R ^{22 is} an unsubstituted C ⁵ -C ¹⁷ hydrocarbon radical derived from the corresponding fatty acids or having hydroxylated C ³ -C ¹⁷ radicals which may be attributed to hydroxylated carboxylic acids, preferably saccharide carboxylic acids.

m ist bevorzugt 2 bis 100, und besonders bevorzugt 2 bis 50. n ist 0 bis 100, bevorzugt 0 bis 80, und besonders bevorzugt 10 bis 80. q ist 1 bis 50, bevorzugt 2 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 2 bis 20, noch bevorzugter ist q 2 bis 10. r ist 0 bis 100, bevorzugt 0 bis 50, und besonders bevorzugt 0 bis 20, noch bevorzugter ist r 0 bis 10.More preferred is R ²² :

m is preferably 2 to 100, and particularly preferably 2 to 50. n is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 80, and particularly preferably 10 to 80. q is 1 to 50, preferably 2 to 50, and particularly preferably 2 to 20, more preferably q is 2 to 10. r is 0 to 100, preferably 0 to 50, and more preferably 0 to 20, more preferably r is 0 to 10.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ -alkyl or C ₁ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms or 1 to 30 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched can. Examples which may be mentioned are methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, pentyl, hexyl, heptyl, nonyl, decyl, undecyl, isopropyl, neopentyl, and 1,2,3-trimethylhexyl.

The term "C ₁ -C ₂₂ fluoroalkyl" as used above means in the context of the present invention aliphatic hydrocarbon compounds having 1 to 22 carbon atoms which may be straight-chain or branched and are substituted by at least one fluorine atom. Examples include monofluoromethyl, monofluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoroethyl, perfluoroethyl, 1,1,1-trifluoropropyl, 1,2,2 trifluorobutyl listed.

The term "aryl" as used above means in the context of the present invention unsubstituted or mono- or polysubstituted by OH, F, Cl, CF 3 C ₁ -C ₆ -alkyl, C ₁ -C ₆ -alkoxy, C ₃ - C ₇ -Cycloalkyl, C ₂ -C ₆ alkenyl or phenyl substituted phenyl. The term may optionally also mean naphthyl.

A particular embodiment of the polysiloxanes according to the invention as constituent a) of the invention The active ingredient complex according to the invention (which is referred to below as the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes) is represented by the polysiloxanes of the general formula (n: [-N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -Y-] _m wherein
Y is a group of the formula -KSK- and -AE-A'- and -A'-EA-, respectively,
wherein m, K, S, -AE-A 'and -A'-EA- are as defined above, the groups K, S, -AE-A'- and -A'-EA- within the polysiloxanes of the general formula (V) may be the same or different from each other, and the molar ratio of the group -KSK- and the group -AE-A'- or -A'-EA- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) of 100: 1 to 1: 100,
N ^{5 is} an ammonium group of the general formula - (R ²³ ) N ⁺ (R ²⁴ ) -, in which
R ^{23 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and with -OH may be substituted
R ^{24 represents} hydrogen, a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, C (S) - and substituted by -OH or is a single bond to a divalent radical R ²³ , and the radicals R ²³ and R ²⁴ within the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
F ^{1 represents} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) - or -C (S) - or by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein a plurality of N ⁵ and F ^{1 may} each be the same or different from each other.

The molar ratio the group -K-S-K- and the group -A-E-A'- and -A'-E-A- in the polysiloxane compound of the general formula (V) lies between 100: 1 and 1: 100. This molar ratio can be as in the published patent application WO 02/10257, by the choice of the molar ratio the starting compounds, in particular the ratio of the invention preferred used (α, α-Halogencarbonsäurepalkalkyloxide ester compounds and the polysiloxane bisepoxide compounds are controlled. The properties of the products much of the ratio used the starting materials, as well as the length of the polyalkylene oxide or polysiloxane blocks contained therein.

In a preferred embodiment the so-called fifth embodiment the polysiloxanes K is a divalent hydrocarbon radical with at least 4 carbon atoms having a hydroxyl group and which may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.

In a preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, F1 is a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₂ -C ₃₀ -hydrocarbon radical which is represented by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - or may be interrupted by a group -E-, wherein E is as defined above, and wherein the carbon atoms resulting from the radical E are not counted among the 2 to 30 carbon atoms of the C ₂ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon radical ,

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of formula: -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) + - F ² -N (R ²⁵ R ²⁶ ) ⁺ wherein
R ^{25 is} a monovalent or divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) - and substituted by -OH , particularly preferably methyl,
R ^{26 is} a monovalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched C ₁ -C ₂₀ -hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -C (O) -, -C (S) and substituted by -OH, particularly preferably Is methyl, or is a single bond to a divalent radical R ²⁵ , and the radicals R ²⁵ and R ²⁶ within the group -N ⁵ -F ² -N ⁵ - as well as in the polysiloxane compound may be the same or different from each other,
and
F ^{2 is} a divalent straight-chain, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical which may be interrupted by -O-, -NH-, -N-, -C (O) -, -C (S) -.

In an even more preferred embodiment, F ^{2 is} a branched, preferably straight-chain C ₁ -C ₆ -alkanediyl group, of which a 1,6-hexanediyl (or hexamethylene) group is preferred.

In a further preferred embodiment. the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxane compounds -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ - a group of formula: -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ -F 3 -N (R ²⁷ R ²⁸ ) ⁺ wherein
R ²⁷ and R ^{28 are} each hydrogen, C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl or hydroxy (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alkyl, preferably hydrogen, methyl or -CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, and
F ^{3 is} a divalent straight, cyclic or branched hydrocarbon radical interrupted by a group -E- wherein E is as defined above.

F ³ is particularly preferably a group of the formula -DED wherein E is as defined above and D is each a single bond or a straight or branched C ¹ -C ⁶ alkanediyl group, provided that D is not a single bond when it binds to a terminal E group oxygen atom.

Preferably, the group -DED- is replaced by a group of the formula -D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _v (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _w -OD wherein D is a straight or branched C ₁ -C ₆ alkanediyl group and r and q are as defined above. In the group -D- (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _q (OCH ₂ CH (CH ₃ )) _r -OD- the ethylene oxide and propylene oxide units may be arranged arbitrarily, for. B. as a random copolymer unit or as a block copolymer unit.

v is preferably 1 to 100, more preferably 1 to 70, more preferably 1 to 40.

w is preferably 0 to 100, more preferably 0 to 70, even more preferably 0 to 40.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the invention, the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ by a group of the formula: -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ and a group of the formula: -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ wherein the substituents each have the above meanings.

This means that the polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) are composed of two different types of the group -N ⁵ -F ¹ -N ⁵ -.

In this embodiment, the molar ratio of the group -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ -F ² -N ⁺ R ²⁵ R ²⁶ to the group -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ -F ³ -N ⁺ R ²⁷ R ²⁸ preferably 70:30 to 95: 5, preferably 80:20 to 90:10.

The Polysiloxane compounds of the general formula (V) can be cyclic or be linear. In the case of linear connections result the terminal ones Groups either from the for the preparation used bifunctional described below Monomers or their functionalized derivatives or monoamines, the while be added to the polymerization as a chain stopper. The resulting from the use of the monoamine chain stopper Terminal groups are preferably as ammonium groups, either by quarternization or protonation.

In a further preferred embodiment of the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, K is one of the groups of the formula:

In the so-called fifth embodiment of the polysiloxanes, q is preferably in the range from 1 to 50, in particular 2 to 50, especially 2 to 20 and especially 2 to 10, and r is in the range of 0 to 100, in particular 0 to 50, especially 0 to 20 and especially 0 to 10.

In the so-called fifth embodiment The invention is the organic or inorganic acid radical for the neutralization of the ammonium group (s) resulting from the (n) Charges suitably selected from inorganic radicals, such as chloride, bromide, hydrogen sulfate, sulfate, or organic radicals, such as acetate, propionate, octanoate, decanoate, Dodecanoate, tetradecanoate, hexadecanoate, octadecanoate and oleate, wherein as mentioned above Chloride and bromide are preferred from the reaction of the alkyl halide groups with amine groups result.

Farther the polysiloxanes are the fifth embodiment in protonated form as amine salts or as amines.

The Polysiloxanes of the fifth embodiment the invention are advantageously prepared by one of the methods disclosed in the publication WO 02/10257 are described.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above can be obtained for example under the tradename Baysilone ^® from GE Bayer Silicones. The products named Baysilone TP 3911, SME 253 and SFE 839 are preferred. Very particular preference is given to the use of Baysilone TP 3911 as component a) of the active ingredient combination according to the invention.

The polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds described above in the active ingredient complex according to the invention in an amount of 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.01 to 7.5, particularly preferably from 0.01 to 5.0% by weight, very particularly preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, based on the total composition used.

preferred viscosities the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds are between 0.1 and 5000 cSt, very particularly preferred viscosities are between 0.1 and 3000 cSt. The most preferred range is between 0.5 and 200 cSt. The highest most preferred range is between 1 cSt and 50 cSt.

Within the ingredients a) of the active ingredient combination according to the invention preferably dimethicones, dimethiconols, amodimethicones and polyammonium-polysiloxanes and mixtures thereof used. Particularly preferred is the use of dimethicones and dimethiconols and mixtures thereof. All particularly preferred is the use of dimethicones. Of course it is according to the invention maximum preferred when these substances in the molecular weight ranges already described and viscosity ranges be used. This means for the mixtures of at least two silicones that it is most preferred according to the invention, if in In this case, the aforementioned properties in the same molecular weights and viscosity ranges lie. Nevertheless, it is also possible in the case of mixtures of at least two silicones, only one Silicone compound in the preferred range of molecular weight distribution and the viscosity to use. In this case, especially the group of dimethicones used in the preferred range of molecular weight distribution and viscosity. A supreme preferred dimethicone is the commercial product Dow Corning 200 with a viscosity between 0.1 and 50 cSt.

The Ingredients b) are the active ingredient combination according to the invention selected from the group of ester oils.

Ester oils are to be understood as meaning the esters of C ₆ -C ₃₀ fatty acids with C ₂ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols. Both the fatty acids and the fatty alcohols can be linear, saturated or unsaturated, as well as branched, saturated or unsaturated. The monoesters of the fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 24 carbon atoms are preferred. Particularly preferred are the esters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 16 carbon atoms. Very particular preference is given to the esters of fatty acids with alcohols having 2 to 6 C atoms. Most preferred are the esters of fatty acids having 2 to 4 carbon atoms. The fatty acids preferably have 6 to 22 C atoms. Particularly preferably, the fatty acids have a C chain of 6 to 18 carbon atoms. Most preferably, the fatty acids have a C chain of 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Most preferred are ester oils having a C chain length of the fatty acid of 12 to 18 C atoms and a C chain length of the alcohol of 2 to 6 C atoms. Examples of fatty acid components used in the esters are caproic acid, caprylic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, isotridecanoic acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselinic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and Erucic acid and their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids.

Examples of the fatty alcohol components in the ester oils are isopropyl alcohol, caproic alcohol, capryl alcohol, 2-ethylhexyl alcohol, capric alcohol, lauryl alcohol, isotridecyl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, linolyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, elaeostearyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, Behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol and brassidyl alcohol and their technical mixtures, the z. B. incurred in the high-pressure hydrogenation of technical methyl esters based on fats and oils or aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis and as a monomer fraction in the dimerization of unsaturated fatty alcohols. According to the invention, particularly preferred are isopropyl myristate (IPM Rilanit ^®), isononanoic acid C16-18 alkyl ester (Cetiol ^® SN), 2-ethylhexyl palmitate (Cegesoft ^® 24), stearic acid-2-ethylhexyl ester (Cetiol ^® 868), cetyl oleate, glycerol tricaprylate, Kokosfettalkohol- caprate / caprylate (Cetiol ^® LC), n-butyl stearate, oleyl erucate (Cetiol ^® J 600), isopropyl palmitate (IPP Rilanit ^®), oleyl Oleate (Cetiol ^®), hexyl laurate (Cetiol ^® A), di-n-butyl adipate (Cetiol ^® B), myristyl myristate (Cetiol ^® MM), cetearyl isononanoate (Cetiol ^® SN), oleic acid decyl ester (Cetiol ^® V).

The Ester oils according to the invention are in an amount of 0.01 to 20% by weight in the compositions according to the invention used. Amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight are preferred. Especially preferred are amounts of 0.1 to 7.5 wt.%. Very particularly preferred are amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt.%.

The mixing ratio of polysiloxane compound to ester oil is according to the invention 10: 1 to 1:10. Preference is given to a mixing ratio from 5: 1 to 1: 5. Particularly preferred is a mixing ratio of 2.5: 1 to 1: 2.5. Most preferred is a mixing ratio of 1.5: 1 to 1: 1.5.

The Total amount of polysiloxane compound and ester oil in the inventive compositions is 0.1 up to 20% by weight. Preference is given to amounts of from 0.1 to 10% by weight. Especially Preferably, amounts of 0.2 to 7.5 wt.% And most preferably are amounts of 0.3 to 5 wt.%.

Further particularly preferred ingredients c), which with the active ingredient combination according to the invention work together in an excellent way, are selected from at least one of the groups of polymers, natural products or natural substances, fatty substances and surfactants Compounds, in particular the mild surface-active compounds.

The first group of ingredients c) are polymers (G). In a first preferred embodiment the invention used As a result, polymers have been added, both cationic, anionic, amphoteric as well as nonionic polymers are suitable in principle have proven. Within the group of polymers turn out the charged polymers are more advantageous over the nonionic polymers. Preferred within the charged polymers are again the cationic ones and the amphoteric polymers.

in the The following are some examples of particularly preferred polymers described.

Under Cationic polymers are understood to mean polymers which are used in the Main and / or Side chain have a group which may be "temporary" or "permanent" cationic. As "permanently cationic" according to the invention such Polymers referred to independently have a cationic group from the pH of the agent. This are usually polymers containing a quaternary nitrogen atom, for example in the form of an ammonium group. Preferred cationic Groups are quaternary Ammonium groups. In particular, such polymers in which the quaternary ammonium group over a C1-4 hydrocarbon group to one of acrylic acid, methacrylic acid or whose derivatives are attached to a polymer backbone, have proven to be particularly suitable.

in der R¹=-H oder -CH₃ ist, R², R³ und R⁴ unabhängig voneinander ausgewählt sind aus C1-4-Alkyl-, -Alkenyl- oder -Hydroxyalkylgruppen, m = 1, 2, 3 oder 4, n eine natürliche Zahl und X^- ein physiologisch verträgliches organisches oder anorganisches Anion ist, sowie Copolymere, bestehend im wesentlichen aus den in Formel (G1-I) aufgeführten Monomereinheiten sowie nichtionogenen Monomereinheiten, sind besonders bevorzugte kationische Polymere. Im Rahmen dieser Polymere sind diejenigen erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt, für die mindestens eine der folgenden Bedingungen gilt:

• – R¹ steht für eine Methylgruppe
• – R², R³ und R⁴ stehen für Methylgruppen
• – m hat den Wert 2.

Homopolymers of the general formula (G1-I),

in which R ¹ = -H or -CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ^{4 are} independently selected from C 1-4 -alkyl, -alkenyl or -hydroxyalkyl groups, m = 1, 2, 3 or 4, n is a natural number and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable organic or inorganic anion, as well as copolymers consisting essentially of the monomer units listed in formula (G1-I) and nonionic monomer units, are particularly preferred cationic polymers. In the context of these polymers, preference is given to those according to the invention for which at least one of the following conditions applies:

• - R ¹ is a methyl group
• - R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are methyl groups
• - m has the value 2.

Suitable physiologically tolerated counterions X ^- include, for example, halide ions, sulfate ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ions and organic ions such as lactate, citrate, tartrate and acetate ions. Preference is given to halide ions, in particular chloride.

A particularly suitable homopolymer is, if desired, crosslinked, poly (methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride) with the INCI name Polyquaternium-37. Such products are available, for example under the names Rheocare ^® CTH (Cosmetic Rheologies) and Synthalen® ^® CR (Ethnichem) in trade. If desired, the crosslinking can be carried out with the aid of poly olefinically unsaturated compounds, for example divinylbenzene, tetraallyloxyethane, methylenebisacrylamide, diallyl ether, polyallylpolyglyceryl ethers, or allyl ethers of sugars or sugar derivatives such as erythritol, pentaerythritol, arabitol, mannitol, sorbitol, sucrose or glucose. Methylenebisacrylamide is a preferred crosslinking agent.

The homopolymer is preferably used in the form of a nonaqueous polymer dispersion which should not have a polymer content of less than 30% by weight. Such polymer dispersions are (under the names Salcare ^® SC 95 about 50% polymer content, additional components: mineral oil (INCI name: Mineral 0il) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene-ether (INCI name: PPG-1 trideceth-6) ) and Salcare ^® SC 96 (about 50% polymer content, additional components: mixture of diesters of propylene glycol with a mixture of caprylic and capric acid (INCI name: Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate) and tridecyl-polyoxypropylene-polyoxyethylene ether (INCI name: PPG-1-trideceth-6)) commercially available.

Copolymers having monomer units of the formula (G1-I) contain as nonionic monomer units preferably acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters and methacrylic acid-C _1-4 -alkyl esters. Among these nonionic monomers, the acrylamide is particularly preferred. These copolymers can also be crosslinked, as described above in the case of the homopolymers. A copolymer preferred according to the invention is the crosslinked acrylamide-methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride copolymer. Such copolymers in which the monomers are present in a weight ratio of about 20:80, are commercially available as approximately 50% non-aqueous polymer dispersion 92 under the name Salcare ^® SC.

• – quaternisierte Cellulose-Derivate, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Celquat^® und Polymer JR^® im Handel erhältlich sind. Die Verbindungen Celquat^® H 100, Celquat^® L 200 und Polymer JR^®400 sind bevorzugte quaternierte Cellulose-Derivate,
• – kationische Alkylpolyglycoside gemäß der DE-PS 44 13 686,
• – kationiserter Honig, beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Honeyquat^® 50,
• – kationische Guar-Derivate, wie insbesondere die unter den Handelsnamen Cosmedia^®Guar und Jaguar^® vertriebenen Produkte,
• – polymere Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze und deren Copolymere mit Estern und Amiden von Acrylsäure und Methacrylsäure. Die unter den Bezeichnungen Merquat^®100 (Poly(dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid)) und Merquat^®550 (Dimethyldiallylammoniumchlorid-Acrylamid-Copolymer) im Handel erhältlichen Produkte sind Beispiele für solche kationischen Polymere,
• – Copolymere des Vinylpyrrolidons mit quaternierten Derivaten des Dialkylaminoalkylacrylats und -methacrylats, wie beispielsweise mit Diethylsulfat quaternierte Vinylpyrrolidon-Dimethylaminoethylmethacrylat-Copolymere. Solche Verbindungen sind unter den Bezeichnungen Gafquat^®734 und Gafquat^®755 im Handel erhältlich,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylimidazoliummethochlorid-Copolymere, wie sie unter den Bezeichnungen Luviquat^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 und HM 552 angeboten werden,
• – quaternierter Polyvinylalkohol,
• – sowie die unter den Bezeichnungen Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 und Polyquaternium 27 bekannten Polymeren mit quartären Stickstoffatomen in der Polymerhauptkette,
• – Vinylpyrrolidon-Vinylcaprolactam-Acrylat-Terpolymere, wie sie mit Acrylsäureestern und Acrylsäureamiden als dritter Monomerbaustein im Handel beispielsweise unter den Bezeichnungen Gaffix^® VC 713 oder Aquaflex^® SF 40 angeboten werden.

Further preferred cationic polymers are, for example

• - Quaternized cellulose derivatives, such as those under the names Celquat ^® and Polymer JR ^® commercially available. The compounds Celquat ^® H 100, Celquat L 200 and Polymer JR ^{® ®} 400 are preferred quaternized cellulose derivatives
• Cationic alkyl polyglycosides according to DE-PS 44 13 686,
• - cationized honey, for example the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50,
• - cationic guar derivatives, such as in particular the products sold under the trade names Cosmedia® ^® Guar and Jaguar ^®,
• - Dimethyldiallylammoniumsalze polymeric and their copolymers with esters and amides of acrylic acid and methacrylic acid. Under the names Merquat ^® 100 (Poly (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride)) and Merquat ^® 550 (dimethyldiallylammonium chloride-acrylamide copolymer) are examples of such cationic polymers,
• - Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone with quaternized derivatives of dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate and methacrylate, such as diethyl sulfate quaternized vinylpyrrolidone-dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate copolymers. Such compounds are sold under the names Gafquat ^® 734 and Gafquat ^® 755 commercially,
• - vinylpyrrolidone vinylimidazoliummethochloride copolymers, such as those offered under the names Luviquat.RTM ^® FC 370, FC 550, FC 905 and HM 552,
• - quaternized polyvinyl alcohol,
• - as well as the polymers known under the names Polyquaternium 2, Polyquaternium 17, Polyquaternium 18 and Polyquaternium 27 with quaternary nitrogen atoms in the polymer main chain,
• - vinylpyrrolidone-vinyl caprolactam-acrylate terpolymers, such as those offered by Acrylsäureestern and acrylamides as the third monomer commercially, for example under the names Gaffix ^® VC 713 or Aqua Flex ^® SF 40th

Can be used as cationic polymers are sold under the names Polyquaternium-24 (commercial product z. B. Quatrisoft ^® LM 200), known polymers. , Gaffix ^® VC 713 (manufactured by ISP): Also according to the invention can be used the copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, such as the commercial products Copolymer 845 (ISP manufacturer) are Gafquat ^® ASCP 1011, Gafquat ^® HS 110, Luviquat ^® 8155 and Luviquat ^® MS 370 available are.

Other cationic polymers which can be used in the agents according to the invention are the so-called "temporary cationic" polymers. These polymers usually contain an amino group which, at certain pH values, is present as quaternary ammonium group and thus cationic. For example, chitosan and its derivatives are preferred as Hydagen CMF ^®, Hydagen HCMF ^®, Kytamer ^® PC and Chitolam ^® NB / 101 are freely available commercially, for example under the trade names.

According to the invention preferred cationic polymers are cationic cellulose derivatives and chitosan and its derivatives, in particular the commercial products Polymer ^® JR 400, Hydagen ^® HCMF and Kytamer ^® PC, cationic guar derivatives, cationic honey derivatives, in particular the commercial product Honeyquat ^® 50, cationic Alkylpolyglycodside according to DE-PS 44 13 686 and polymers of the type Polyquaternium-37.

Furthermore, cationized protein hydrolyzates are to be counted among the cationic polymers, wherein the underlying protein hydrolyzate from the animal, for example from collagen, milk or keratin, from the plant, for example from wheat, corn, rice, potatoes, soy or almonds, marine life forms, for example from fish collagen or algae, or biotechnologically derived protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolyzates on which the cationic derivatives according to the invention are based can be prepared from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis an enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis are obtained. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those cationic protein hydrolyzates whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 5000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Hair Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Gelatin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Casein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Collagen, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Conchiolin Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Keratin, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Rice Bran Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Laurdimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein / Siloxysilicate, Lauryldimony Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Casein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Keratin, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein, Steardimoni Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein, Steartrimonium Hydroxyethyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-76 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Collagen, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Keratin, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Milk Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein.

All particularly preferred are the cationic protein hydrolysates and Derivatives on a vegetable basis.

The cationic polymers are preferred in amounts in the compositions according to the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Farther is it preferred according to the invention if cationic polymers as ingredient c) of the active ingredient complex A used when the ratio between the ingredients b) and c) 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 and most preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1.

Very particularly preferred cationic polymers are cationic polymers based on cellulose, starch and / or guar. Such polymers are sold, for example with the trade names Polymer JR ^{®, ®} Cosmedia Guar, Jaguar® or Structure ^® commercially. Furthermore, it is very particularly preferred if the ratio of the two active substances with one another, the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) and the cationic polymers b), is 1: 1 to 1: 5.

at the anionic polymers (G2) are anionic polymers, which have carboxylate and / or sulfonate groups. Examples for anionic Monomers from which such polymers may consist are Acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic, maleic anhydride and 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid. there can the acidic groups in whole or in part as sodium, potassium, ammonium, Mono- or triethanolammonium salt present. Preferred monomers are 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and acrylic acid.

When anionic polymers have proven to be particularly effective containing as sole or co-monomer 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group wholly or partly as sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or Triethanolammonium salt may be present.

More preferably, the homopolymer of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropansulfon acid, which is available for example under the name Rheothik ^® 11-80 is commercially.

Within this embodiment For example, it may be preferable to use copolymers of at least one anionic Use monomer and at least one nonionic monomer. In terms of The anionic monomers are based on the substances listed above directed. Preferred nonionic monomers are acrylamide, methacrylamide, acrylate, methacrylates, Vinyl pyrrolidone, vinyl ethers and vinyl esters.

Preferred anionic copolymers are acrylic acid-acrylamide copolymers and in particular polyacrylamide copolymers with sulfonic acid-containing monomers. A particularly preferred anionic copolymer consists of 70 to 55 mol% of acrylamide and 30 to 45 mol% of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid, wherein the sulfonic acid group is wholly or partly in the form of sodium, potassium, ammonium, mono- or triethanolammonium Salt is present. This copolymer may also be crosslinked, with crosslinking agents preferably polyolefinically unsaturated compounds such as tetraallyloxyethane, allylsucrose, allylpentaerythritol and methylene-bisacrylamide are used. Such a polymer is contained in the commercial product Sepigel ^® 305 from SEPPIC. The use of this compound, which in addition to the polymer component contains a hydrocarbon mixture (C ₁₃ -C ₁₄ isoparaffin) and a nonionic emulsifier (laureth-7), has proved to be particularly advantageous within the scope of the teaching according to the invention.

Also sold under the name Simulgel ^® 600 as a compound with isohexadecane and polysorbate-80 Natriumacryloyldimethyltaurat copolymers have proved to be particularly effective according to the invention.

Likewise preferred anionic homopolymers are uncrosslinked and crosslinked polyacrylic acids. Allyl ethers of pentaerythritol, sucrose and propylene may be preferred crosslinking agents. Such compounds are for example available under the trademark Carbopol ^® commercially.

Copolymers of maleic anhydride and methyl vinyl ether, especially those with crosslinks, are also color-retaining polymers. A 1.9-decadienes crosslinked maleic acid-methyl copolymer available under the name Stabileze® ^® QM.

The Anionic polymers are preferred in amounts in the inventive compositions from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Farther is it preferred according to the invention if anionic polymers as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex A used when the ratio between the ingredients b) and c) 1:10 to 1: 5, preferably 1: 5 to 1: 3, particularly preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1.

Furthermore, amphoteric polymers (G3) can be used as polymers. The term amphoteric polymers includes both those polymers which contain in the molecule both free amino groups and free -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and are capable of forming internal salts, as well as zwitterionic polymers which in the molecule have quaternary ammonium groups and -COO ^- or -SO ₃ ^- groups, and summarized those polymers containing -COOH or SO ₃ H groups and quaternary ammonium groups.

amphoteric Polymers, like the cationic polymers, are very particular preferred polymers.

An example of the present invention amphopolymer suitable is the acrylic resin commercially available as Amphomer ^® is a copolymer of tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylate, N- (1,1,3,3-tetramethylbutyl) -acrylamide and two or more monomers from the group of acrylic acid, Represents methacrylic acid and its simple esters.

• (a) Monomeren mit quartären Ammoniumgruppen der allgemeinen Formel (G3-I), R¹-CH=CR²-CO-Z-(C_nH_2n)-N⁽⁺⁾R³R⁴R⁵A^(-) (G3-I)in der R¹ und R² unabhängig voneinander stehen für Wasserstoff oder eine Methylgruppe und R³, R⁴ und R⁵ unabhängig voneinander für Alkylgruppen mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen, Z eine NH-Gruppe oder ein Sauerstoffatom, n eine ganze Zahl von 2 bis 5 und A^(-) das Anion einer organischen oder anorganischen Säure ist, und
• (b) monomeren Carbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (G3-II), R⁶-CH=CR⁷-COOH (G3-II)in denen R⁶ und R⁷ unabhängig voneinander Wasserstoff oder Methylgruppen sind.

Preferably used amphoteric polymers are those polymers which are composed essentially

• (a) monomers having quaternary ammonium groups of the general formula (G3-I), R ¹ -CH = CR ² -CO-Z- (C _n H _2n ) -N ⁽⁺⁾ R ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ A ^(-) (G ³ -I) in which R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are hydrogen or a methyl group and R ³ , R ⁴ and R ⁵ independently of one another are alkyl groups having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Z is an NH group or an oxygen atom, n is an integer from 2 to 5 and A ^{(-) is} the anion of an organic or inorganic acid, and
• (b) monomeric carboxylic acids of the general formula (G3-II), R ⁶ -CH = CR ⁷ -COOH (G3-II) in which R ⁶ and R ^{7 are} independently hydrogen or methyl groups.

These compounds can be used both directly and in salt form, which is obtained by neutralization of the polymers, for example with an alkali metal hydroxide, according to the invention. Very particular preference is given to those polymers in which monomers of the type (a) are used in which R ³ , R ⁴ and R ^{5 are} methyl groups, Z is an NH group and A ^{(-) is} a halide, methoxysulfate or ethoxysulfate Ion is; Acrylamidopropyl trimethyl ammonium chloride is a particularly preferred monomer (a). Acrylic acid is preferably used as monomer (b) for the stated polymers.

The Amphoteric polymers are preferred in amounts in the compositions of the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Farther is it preferred according to the invention if amphoteric polymers as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex A used when the ratio between the ingredients a) and b) 5: 1 to 1: 5, preferably 3: 1 to 1: 3, more preferably 2: 1 to 1: 2 and most preferably 1: 2 to 1: 1.

Especially preferred amphoteric polymers are available under the trade name Merquat ^®. Within these types, the cationic charge varies in different products, so this range includes both cationic and amphoteric polymers. A particularly preferred amphoteric polymer of this series is the product Merquat 280.

The agents according to the invention can as ingredient b) in a further embodiment nonionogenic polymers (G4).

• – Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylester-Copolymere, wie sie beispielsweise unter dem Warenzeichen Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden. Luviskol^® VA 64 und Luviskol® VA 73, jeweils Vinylpyrrolidon/Vinylacetat-Copolymere, sind ebenfalls bevorzugte nichtionische Polymere.
• – Celluloseether, wie Hydroxypropylcellulose, Hydroxyethylcellulose und Methylhydroxypropylcellulose, wie sie beispielsweise unter den Warenzeichen Culminal^® und Benecel^® (AQUALON) und Natrosol^®-Typen (Hercules) vertrieben werden.
• – Stärke und deren Derivate, insbesondere Stärkeether, beispielsweise Structure^® XL (National Starch), eine multifunktionelle, salztolerante Stärke;
• – Schellack
• – Polyvinylpyrrolidone, wie sie beispielsweise unter der Bezeichnung Luviskol^® (BASF) vertrieben werden.
• – Siloxane. Diese Siloxane können sowohl wasserlöslich als auch wasserunlöslich sein. Geeignet sind sowohl flüchtige als auch nichtflüchtige Siloxane, wobei als nichtflüchtige Siloxane solche Verbindungen verstanden werden, deren Siedepunkt bei Normaldruck oberhalb von 200 °C liegt. Bevorzugte Siloxane sind Polydialkylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polydimethylsiloxan, Polyalkylarylsiloxane, wie beispielsweise Polyphenylmethylsiloxan, ethoxylierte Polydialkylsiloxane sowie Polydialkylsiloxane, die Amin- und/oder Hydroxy-Gruppen enthalten.
• – Glycosidisch substituierte Silicone.

Suitable nonionic polymers are, for example:

• - Vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl ester copolymers, such as those sold under the trademark Luviskol ^® (BASF). Luviskol ^® VA 64 and Luviskol VA 73, each vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate copolymers, are also preferred nonionic polymers.
• - cellulose ethers such as hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl cellulose and methylhydroxypropyl cellulose, as for example under the trademark Culminal® ^® and Benecel ^® (AQUALON) and Natrosol ^® grades (Hercules) are distributed.
• - starch and its derivatives, in particular starch, such as Structure XL ^® (National Starch), a multifunctional, salt-tolerant starch;
• - shellac
• - polyvinylpyrrolidones, as for example under the name Luviskol ^® (BASF).
• - siloxanes. These siloxanes can be both water-soluble and water-insoluble. Both volatile and nonvolatile siloxanes are suitable, nonvolatile siloxanes being understood as meaning those compounds whose boiling point is above 200 ° C. under normal pressure. Preferred siloxanes are polydialkylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polydimethylsiloxane, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, such as, for example, polyphenylmethylsiloxane, ethoxylated polydialkylsiloxanes and polydialkylsiloxanes which contain amine and / or hydroxyl groups.
• - Glycosidically substituted silicones.

The Nonionic polymers are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

It According to the invention it is also possible that the used Preparations several, especially two different polymers same Charge and / or in each case an ionic and an amphoteric and / or not contain ionic polymer.

According to the invention, the term polymer also means special preparations of polymers, such as spherical polymer powders. Various methods are known for producing such microspheres from different monomers, e.g. Example by special polymerization or by dissolving the polymer in a solvent and spraying in a medium in which the solvent can evaporate or diffuse out of the particles. Such a method is z. B. off EP 466 986 B1 known. Suitable polymers are z. As polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, polyolefins, polyesters or polyamides. Particularly suitable are those spherical polymer powders whose primary particle diameter is less than 1 micron. Such products based on a polymethacrylate copolymer are, for. B. under the trademark Polytrap ^® Q5-6603 (Dow Corning) in the trade. Other polymer powders, e.g. Based on polyamides (nylon 6, nylon 12) are having a particle size of 2-10 microns (90%) and a specific surface area of about 10 m ² / g under the trade name Orgasol ^® 2002 DU Nat Cos (Atochem SA , Paris) available. Other spherical polymer powders which are suitable for the purpose according to the invention are, for. NIKKOL's polymethacrylates (Micropearl M) or NIKKOL's (Plastic Powder A) copolymers, NIKKOL's styrene-divinylbenzene copolymers (Plastic Powder FP), AKZO's polyethylene and polypropylene powders (ACCUREL EP 400), or also Silicone polymers (Silicone Powder X2-1605) from Dow Corning or spherical cellulose powders.

The Polymer powders described above are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total Means, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

Polymers, regardless of their chemical structure and charge, can also be characterized by their function in cosmetic agents. In particular, a distinction is made in:
Antistatic polymers: With the help of the electrical properties of these polymers, the surfaces of the cosmetic-treated substrates skin, nails and keratinic fibers are influenced in their electrical potential. In hair care, for example, this effect reduces the effect known as "fly-away effect" and is based on the electrostatic repulsion of the hair fibers, but it also affects the skin surface on the skin surface, and some of these polymers have their optimum effect in a certain pH range.

firming Polymers: Polymers that fix the hair, the so-called firming polymers; contribute to the maintenance and / or development of the hair volume, the hair fullness the total hairstyle at. Film forming polymers and gums are therefore generally typical substances for Hair treatment products such as hair fixatives, hair foams, hair waxes, hair sprays. Substances which continue to impart hydrophobic properties to the hair, are preferred because they dampen the tendency of the hair, so absorb water, reduce it. This is the flabby Hang down the strands of hair diminished and thus a long-lasting hairstyle structure and preservation guaranteed. As a test method for this becomes common the so-called curl retention test applied. These polymeric substances can Continue to be successful in leave-on and rinse-off hair treatments or shampoos be incorporated.

Film-forming Polymers: Among film-forming polymers such polymers are too understand which on drying a continuous film the skin, hair or nails leave. Such film formers can be used in many different ways cosmetic products such as face masks, make-up, Hair fixatives, hair sprays, hair gels, hair waxes, hair treatments, shampoos or nail polishes are used.

emulsion stabilizing Polymers: Of course counting also the emulsion-stabilizing polymers to the inventively preferred Polymers. These are understood to mean polymers which have the structure and the stabilization of emulsions (O / W and W / O and multiple Emulsions) significantly support. Surfactants and emulsifiers are of course the essential ingredients, however, the stabilizing polymers carry a positive Influencing the continuous or disperse phase to one Reduction of coalescence of the emulsified droplets. This positive Influencing may be due to an electrical repulsion, an increase in the viscosity or film formation on the droplet surface.

Lipidverdickende Polymers: For this purpose, polymers are used which are not water-soluble but compatible with lipids are. They are also used for gelation of cosmetic Agents with high lipid levels used.

suspending: Another essential function of polymers in cosmetic Means is the function as suspending aid.

suspending facilitate the distribution of solids in liquids. Hereby prove the polymers by adsorption the surface of the solid particles and change thereby the surface characteristics the solids.

Aqueous phases thickening polymers: polymers can the viscosity of aqueous and non-aqueous phases increase in cosmetic preparations. In aqueous phases based their the Viscosity increasing function on their solubility in water or its hydrophilic nature. They are both surfactant as well as in emulsion-shaped Systems applied.

The Choice of the suitable polymer also depends on the use the composition of the invention. For example, particularly preferred is a film-forming cationic or amphoteric polymer selected, when the composition is used as a styling agent or stiffener shall be.

The Polymers (G) are preferred in amounts in the agents according to the invention from 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1 to 5, in particular from 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, are particularly prefers.

Especially when using the ionic polymers, very particularly preferred when using the cationic and / or the amphoteric polymers is the cosmetic composition of a significantly increased amount deposited on other active ingredients on the skin or hair. Experimental results show that both the amount of deposited Polysiloxane a) as well as the deposited amount of other active ingredients such as anti-dandruff agents such as octopirox, metal amino acid complexes such as Mg, Zn, Ca, Mn, Fe complexes of glutamine, asparagine, Arginine, cysteine, methionine, alanine, lysine, histidine, ornithine, Citrulline, serine, proline, hydroxyproline etc. clearly through the Active ingredient composition according to the invention from the polysiloxane compounds a) and the ester oils b) is increased.

At the same time, this combination of active ingredients increases the penetration of active ingredients into the hair up to a molecular weight of about 1000 daltons. This has been found in particular for amino acids, biotin, panthenol, pantolactone, niacinamide, organic acids with a molecular weight of up to 1000 daltons and salts thereof, in particular their Na, K, Mg, Ca, Zn, Cu, Fe and ammonium salts N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ R ⁴ . The radicals R ¹ to R ⁴ are each independently H, -CH ₃ , -C ₂ H ₅ , -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , iso-propyl, -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₃ , iso-butyl and Pentyl, iso-pentyl and neo-pentyl.

Farther it was found that the outer skin and hair structure is much smoother and less rough. That was both in a test panel of trained persons, as well as objectively detected using the AFM (atomic force microscopy) method.

Finally show experimental findings that the drug combination according to the invention particularly is well suited to perfume oils or To remove fragrances on the skin and hair in an increased amount. simultaneously remain the perfume oils and perfumes much longer stick to the skin or hair. This leads to increased acceptance such compositions in the consumer. These results are particularly relevant to Such as shower, bubble bath, shampoo, facial cleanser, deodorant and antiperspirants, corrugators, styling agents and skin and skin Hair products.

by virtue of Of these results, it may be most preferred if not only one further ingredient c) in the active ingredient complex according to the invention is used, but at least two further ingredients c), especially when the second ingredient c) is selected from the natural substances and / or the natural analogous substances and in this case again particularly clearly preferred if at least one the other ingredients of group c) is selected from the group of Protein hydrolysates, vitamins or plant extracts, being the highest Favoring a choice of the amino acids, the vitamins of the A, B and E series and a 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylic acid derivative.

When further ingredient c) of the active ingredient complex A according to the invention are suitable outstanding natural products and / or natural analogues.

To The natural substances and the nature-analogous substances include 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and their Derivatives, protein hydrolysates and their derivatives, vitamins, their Derivatives and precursors, and finally plant extracts.

2-Pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and its derivatives (J) is a further substance group which is suitable as ingredient b) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention. Preference is given to the sodium, potassium, calcium, magnesium or ammonium salts in which the ammonium ion carries, in addition to hydrogen, one to three C ₁ - to C ₄ -alkyl groups. The sodium salt is most preferred. The amounts used in the compositions according to the invention are preferably from 0.05 to 10% by weight, based on the total composition, particularly preferably from 0.1 to 5 and in particular from 0.1 to 3% by weight.

If the active ingredient combination according to the invention containing a polysiloxane compound a) and an ester oil b) and as further ingredient c) a 2-pyrrolidinone-5-carboxylic acid and whose derivatives contain (J), The moisture of skin and hair treated with it as well the skin and hair feeling significantly increased in the wet and in the dry state. This effect is confirmed experimentally as well as in the panel test with volunteers.

Of the Inventive ingredient c) the additional for the Wirkstoffkompiexes invention (A) can be further used a protein hydrolyzate and / or its derivative (P) be.

These Synergistic according to the invention Combination causes in particular an increase of the mildness and the skin compatibility but also a fine creamy foam. This one in its structure very fine, creamy and extremely pleasant more sensitive Foam is achieved in all compositions in which surfactants Substances are included. In particular, however, in surface-active compositions. The effectiveness of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention can continue to do so by the simultaneous use of polymers and / or penetration and swelling aids. In these cases remains even after the application of the respective composition significantly more protein hydrolyzate or its derivative on the surface of Skin or hair back, which leads to an improved effect. Skin and hair are thereby clearly strengthened in their structure and smoothed. This effect is also clear with objective evidence such as measuring the combing forces of wet and dry Haares, measuring the tear forces or the measurement of the torsion angle on the skin detectable. A confirmation of this Results are also found in the results of the consumer tests again.

protein are product mixtures that are acidic, basic or enzymatic catalyzed degradation of proteins (proteins) can be obtained. Under The term protein hydrolyzates according to the invention also Totalhydrolysate as well as individual amino acids and their derivatives as well as mixtures of different amino acids understood. Furthermore, according to the invention from amino acids and amino acid derivatives understood polymers understood by the term protein hydrolysates. The latter include, for example, polyalanine, polyasparagine, polyserine etc. to count. Further examples of usable according to the invention Compounds are L-alanyl-L-proline, polyglycine, glycyl-L-glutamine or D / L-methionine-S-methylsulfonium chloride. Of course, according to the invention also β-amino acids and their derivatives, such as β-alanine, anthranilic or hippuric acid be used. The molecular weight of the present invention can be used Protein hydrolysates is between 75, the molecular weight of glycine, and 200,000, preferably the molecular weight 75 to 50,000 and most preferably 75 to 20000 daltons. Of course The present invention also teaches that in the case of of the amino acids these in the form of derivatives, such as the N-acyl derivatives, N-alkyl or O-esters may be present. In the case of N-acyl derivatives the acyl group is a formyl radical, an acetyl radical, a propionyl radical, a butyryl radical or the radical of a straight-chain, branched or unbranched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acid with a chain length from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of an N-alkyl derivative, the alkyl group linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated and has a C-chain length from 1 to 30 carbon atoms. In the case of O-esters are those of esterification underlying alcohols methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, Isobutanol, pentanol, neopentanol, isopentanol, hexanols, heptanols, Caprylic or caproic alcohol, octanols, nonanols, decanols, dodecanols, Lauranole, especially saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alcohols with a C chain length of 1 to 30 carbon atoms. Of course can the amino acids both at the N atom and at the O atom be derivatized simultaneously. Of course, the amino acids can also in salt form, used in particular as mixed salts together with edible acids become. This may be preferred according to the invention be.

Examples of amino acids and their derivatives as protein hydrolysates according to the invention are: alanine, arginine, carnitine, creatine, citrulline, cystathionine, cysteine, cystine, cystic acid, glycine, histidine, homocysteine, homoserine, isoleucine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, methionine, norleucine , Norvaline, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, hydroxyproline, sarcosine, serine, threonine, tryptophan, thyronine, tyrosine, valine, aspartic acid, asparagine, glutamic acid and glutamine. Preferred amino acids are alanine, arginine, glycine, histidine, lanthionine, leucine, lysine, proline, hydroxyproline serine and asparagine. Alanine, glycine, histidine, lysine, serine and arginine are very particularly preferably used. Most preferred are glycine, histidine, lysine and Serine used.

According to the invention, protein hydrolysates both herbal and animal or marine or synthetic Origin are used.

Animal protein hydrolysates are, for example, elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Dehylan ^® (Cognis), Promois® ^® (Interorgana) Collapuron ^® (Cognis), Nutrilan® ^® (Cognis), Gelita-Sol ^® (German Gelatinefabriken Stoess & Co), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and kerasol tm ^® (Croda) sold.

Preferred according to the invention is the use of protein hydrolysates of plant origin, eg. Soybean, almond, pea, potato and wheat protein hydrolysates. Such products are, for example, under the trademarks Gluadin ^® (Cognis), diamine ^® (Diamalt) ^® (Inolex), Hydrosoy ^® (Croda), hydro Lupine ^® (Croda), hydro Sesame ^® (Croda), Hydro tritium ^® (Croda) and Crotein ^® (Croda) available.

Further according to the invention preferred Protein hydrolysates are of maritime origin. These include, for example Collagen hydrolysates of fish or algae as well as protein hydrolysates of mussels or pearl hydrolyzates.

beads of mussels consist essentially of inorganic and organic Calcium salts, trace elements and proteins. Pearls can be Easily gain from cultivated mussels. The cultivation The shells can be fresh in both as well as in seawater. This can affect the ingredients affect the beads. Preferred according to the invention is a pearl extract, which originates from marine or saltwater cultured mussels. The pearls consist to a large extent of aragonite (calcium carbonate), Conchiolin and an albuminoid. The latter components are proteins. Furthermore, in pearls are still magnesium and sodium salts, inorganic Silicon compounds and phosphates included.

to Preparation of the pearl extract, the beads are pulverized. Thereafter, the pulverized beads are extracted by the usual methods. As extraction agent for the production of the pearl extracts, water, Alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Under water are as well as demineralized water as well as seawater understand. Among the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as glycerol, Diglycerin, triglycerin, polyglycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol and butylene glycol, both as the sole extractant as well in admixture with demineralized water or seawater, preferred. Pearl extracts based on water / glycerin mixtures have become proved to be particularly suitable. Depending on the extraction conditions can they Pearl proteins (conchiloin and albuminoid) largely in native Condition or already partially or largely protein hydrolysates available. Preference is given to a pearl extract in which conchiolin and albumin already present partially hydrolyzed. The essential amino acids these proteins are glutamic acid, Serine, alanine, glycine aspartic acid and phenylalanine. In a further particularly preferred embodiment It may be advantageous if the pearl extract additionally with at least one or more of these amino acids enriched these amino acids becomes. In the most preferred embodiment The pearl extract is enriched with glutamic acid, serine and leucine.

Farther is found depending on the extraction conditions, in particular depending from the choice of the extractant a more or less large proportion on minerals and trace elements in the extract again. A preferred one Contains extract organic and / or inorganic calcium salts and magnesium and Sodium salts, inorganic silicon compounds and / or phosphates. A most preferred pearl extract contains at least 75%, preferably 85%, more preferably 90%, and most preferably 95% of all ingredients of course occurring pearls.

Examples of pearl extracts according to the invention are the commercial products Pearl Protein Extract BG ^® or Crodarom ^® Pearl.

In the cosmetic compositions is one of those previously described Pearl extracts in an amount of at least 0.01 up to 20% by weight contain. Preferably, amounts of the extract are from 0.01 up to 10 wt.%, Very particularly preferably amounts of 0.01 to 5 wt.% Related used on the entire cosmetic composition.

One Another very special protein hydrolyzate is extracted from the silk.

silk is a cosmetically very interesting fiber protein silk. Under Silk is the fiber of the cocoon of the mulberry silkworm (Bombyx mori L.). The raw silk fiber consists of a double thread Fibroin. As putty substance holds Sericin this double thread together. Silk consists of 70-80% by weight Fibroin, 19-28 % By weight sericin, 0.5-1 % By weight of fat and 0.5-1 % By weight of dyes and mineral constituents.

The Essential components of sericin are with about 46 wt.% Hydroxyamino acids. The Sericin consists of a group of 5 to 6 proteins. The essential amino acids of the sericin are serine (Ser, 37% by weight), aspartate (Asp, 26% by weight), Glycine (Gly, 17% by weight), alanine (Ala), leucine (Leu) and tyrosine (Tyr).

The water Fibroin is a scleroprotein with a long-chain molecular structure to count. The Main components of fibroin are glycine (44% by weight), alanine (26 % By weight), and tyrosine (13% by weight). Another essential structural feature of the fibroin is the hexapeptide sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly.

Technically, it is possible in a simple manner to separate the two silk proteins from each other. It is therefore not surprising that both sericin and fibroin are known on their own as raw materials for use in cosmetic products. Furthermore, protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on the respective individual silk proteins are known raw materials in cosmetic products. For example, sericin as such is available from Pentapharm ltd. sold as a commercial product called Sericin Code 303-02. Far more often, fibroin is offered as a protein hydrolyzate with different molecular weights in the market. These hydrolyzates are understood in particular as "silk hydroylates". Thus hydrolyzed fibroin is distributed with average molecular weights from 350 to 1000, for example, under the trade designation Promois ^® Silk. The DE 31 39 438 A1 describes colloidal fibroin solutions as an additive in cosmetic products.

The positive properties of the silk protein derivatives of sericin and fibroin are known per se in the literature. Thus, the sales brochure of the company Pentapharm describes the cosmetic effects of sericin on the skin as soothing, hydrating and film-forming. The properties of a shampoo containing sericin as a caring component are described in "Ärztlichen Kosmetologie 17, 91-110 (1987)" by W. Engel et al. referenced. The effect of a fibroin derivative, for example, in the DE 31 39 438 A1 described as caring and conditioning for the hair. In none of the cited documents, however, is there even the slightest indication of a synergistic increase in the positive effects of the silk proteins and their derivatives in a simultaneous use of sericin and fibroin or their derivatives and / or hydrolyzates in a simultaneous use of polyammonium polysiloxane according to the invention Connection.

• – natives Sericin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Sericin, wie beispielsweise Handelsprodukte mit den INCI-Bezeichnungen Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, oder Hydrolyzed Silk,
• – eine Mischung aus den Aminosäuren Serin, Aspartat und Glycin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Serin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 20 bis 60 Gew.%, das Aspartat und/oder dessen Derivate zu 10–40 Gew.% und das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate zu 5 bis 30 Gew.% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, daß sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

According to the invention, it is possible as active substances b) to be used in the active substance complex (A):

• - native sericin,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized sericin, such as commercial products with the INCI names Sericin, Hydrolyzed Sericin, or Hydrolyzed Silk,
• - A mixture of the amino acids serine, aspartate and glycine and / or their methyl, propyl, iso-propyl, butyl, iso-butyl esters, their salts such as hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, wherein in this mixture the serine and % or its derivatives to 20 to 60 wt.%, The aspartate and / or its derivatives to 10-40 wt.% And the glycine and / or its derivatives to 5 to 30 wt.% Are included, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their derivatives are preferably added to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

• – natives, in eine lösliche Form überführtes Fibroin,
• – hydrolysiertes und/oder weiter derivatisiertes Fibroin, besonders teilhydrolisiertes Fibroin, welches als Hauptbestandteil die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly enthält,
• – die Aminosäuresequenz Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• – eine Mischung der Aminosäuren Glycin, Alanin und Tyrosin und/oder deren Methyl, Propyl, iso-Propyl, Butyl, iso-Butylestern, deren Salze wie beispielsweise Hydrochloride, Sulfate, Acetate, Citrate, Tartrate, wobei in dieser Mischung das Glycin und/oder dessen Derivate in Mengen von 20–60 Gew.%, das Alanin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 10–40 Gew,% und das Tyrosin und dessen Derivate in Mengen von 0 bis 25 Gew.% enthalten sind, mit der Maßgabe, daß sich die Mengen dieser Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate vorzugsweise zu 100 Gew.% ergänzen,
• – sowie deren Mischungen.

According to the invention as active ingredients b) can further be used in the active ingredient complex (A):

• Native fibroin converted into a soluble form,
• Hydrolyzed and / or further derivatized fibroin, especially partially hydrolyzed fibroin, which contains as its main constituent the amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• The amino acid sequence Ser-Gly-Ala-Gly-Ala-Gly,
• A mixture of the amino acids glycine, alanine and tyrosine and / or their methyl, propyl, isopropyl, butyl, isobutyl esters, their salts such as, for example, hydrochlorides, sulfates, acetates, citrates, tartrates, in which mixture the glycine and / or or its derivatives in amounts of 20-60% by weight, the alanine and its derivatives in amounts of 10-40% by weight, and the tyrosine and its derivatives in amounts of 0-25% by weight, with the proviso that the amounts of these amino acids and / or their de preferably to 100% by weight,
• - And their mixtures.

If in the compositions of the invention containing the active substance complex (A) simultaneously both silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives are used, it may be preferred according to the invention be that at least one of the two silk components, fibroin or sericin in the native or at most soluble made form is used. According to the invention, it is also possible to have a Mixture of several silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives use.

If a mixture of at least two silk hydrolyzates and / or their Derivatives is used, it may be preferred according to the invention that the two Silk protein hydrolysates in proportion from 10:90 to 70:30, especially 15:85 to 50:50 and especially 20:80 to 40:60 based on their respective levels of active substance in the preparations according to the invention be used.

The derivatives of sericin and fibroin hydrolysates include both anionic and cationized protein hydrolysates. The protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin according to the invention and the derivatives prepared therefrom can be obtained from the corresponding proteins by chemical, in particular alkaline or acid hydrolysis, by enzymatic hydrolysis and / or a combination of both types of hydrolysis. The hydrolysis of proteins usually results in a protein hydrolyzate having a molecular weight distribution of about 100 daltons up to several thousand daltons. Preference is given to those protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin and / or derivatives thereof, whose underlying protein content has a molecular weight of 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably 250 to 10,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolysates of sericin and fibroin also mean quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. The quaternization of the protein hydrolyzates or amino acids is often carried out using quaternary ammonium salts such as N, N-dimethyl-N- (n-alkyl) -N- (2-hydroxy-3-chloro-n-propyl) ammonium halides. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of the cationic protein hydrolyzates and derivatives according to the invention, those listed under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook", (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxyproypltrimonium Hydrolyzed Silk, Lauryldimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Quaternium-79 Hydrolyzed Silk. As typical examples of the invention anionic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association had 1101 17 ^th Street, NW, Suite 300 Potassium Cocoyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Sodium Lauroyl Hydrolyzed Silk, or Sodium Stearoyl Hydrolyzed Silk. Finally, typical examples of the derivatives of sericin and fibroin which can be used according to the invention are the products available commercially under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol. Also useful in the present invention, although not necessarily preferred, are the commercially available products having the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1 , Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk.

In the invention used Agents are the silk protein hydrolysates and / or their derivatives in amounts of 0.001-10 Wt .-% based on the total agent. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

Although the use of the protein hydrolysates is preferred as such, amino acid mixtures otherwise obtained may be used in their place, if appropriate. Also possible is the use of derivatives of protein hydrolysates, for example in the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Such products are sold, for example, under the names Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Lexein® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® (Croda) or crotein ^® (Croda).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.

It is according to the invention also possible, to use a mixture of several protein hydrolysates (P).

The Protein hydrolysates (P) are present in the compositions in concentrations of 0.001% by weight up to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.05 wt.% To to 5% by weight.

Finally is under the component c), which in an outstanding way additionally in active ingredient complex according to the invention (A) can be used as natural and / or natural substance can also understand a plant extract (L).

Also through the use of plant extracts (L) together with the polysiloxanes a) and the ester oils b) a synergistic effect is achieved. This drug combination creates a pleasant scent of both the molded cosmetic Composition, as well as the skin and the treated hair. It may possibly even on the addition of other perfume oils and Fragrances are dispensed with.

Farther influences this combination of active substances according to the invention also the moisture balance of the skin favorable. It also shows an anti-inflammatory and the skin soothing effect if, for example, chamomile or Valerian can be used.

Usually These extracts are produced by extraction of the whole plant. It may, however, in individual cases also be preferred, the extracts exclusively from flowers and / or Scroll to produce the plant.

Regarding the invention usable Plant extracts are particularly pointed to the extracts, in the on page 44 of the 3rd edition of the Guidance on the declaration of ingredients Cosmetic agent, published by the Industrieverband Körperpflege- and Detergents e.V. (IKW), Frankfurt, beginning table are listed.

According to the invention are available especially the extracts of green Tea, Oak bark, Stinging nettle, Hamamelis, Hops, Henna, Chamomile, Burdock root, horsetail, hawthorn, lime blossom, almond, Aloe vera, spruce needle, horse chestnut, Sandalwood, juniper, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Mallow, Valerian, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, thyme, lemon balm, toadstool, coltsfoot, marshmallow, meristem, Ginseng, coffee, cocoa, moringa and ginger root are preferred.

Especially preferred are the extracts of green tea, oak bark, stinging nettle, Witch hazel, hops, chamomile, burdock root, horsetail, lime blossom, almond, Aloe vera, coconut, Mango, Apricot, Lime, Wheat, Kiwi, Melon, Orange, Grapefruit, Sage, Rosemary, Birch, Meadowfoam, Quendel, Yarrow, Valerian, coffee, cocoa, moringa, home toe, meristem, ginseng and Ginger root.

All especially for the use according to the invention suitable are the extracts of green tea, almond, aloe vera, Coconut, Mango, apricot, lime, wheat, kiwi and melon.

When Extraction agent for the preparation of said plant extracts can Water, alcohols and mixtures thereof are used. Under the alcohols are lower alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, but especially polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, both as sole extractant and in mixture with Water, preferably. Plant extracts based on water / propylene glycol in relation to 1:10 to 10: 1 have proven to be particularly suitable.

The Plant extracts can according to the invention both in pure as well as in diluted Form are used. If used in dilute form, they usually contain about 2-80 Wt .-% of active substance and as a solvent the extractant or extractant mixture used in their extraction.

Farther it may be preferred in the inventive compositions of several, especially from two, different plant extracts use.

A another group of natural substances and / or nature-analogous ingredients are vitamins, their derivatives and precursors. Vitamins, pro-vitamins and vitamin precursors are particularly preferred that the groups A, B, C, E, F and H are assigned.

Also as very particularly advantageous in all means has the combination the polyammonium-polysiloxane compounds a) with vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors and their derivatives (K) as an active ingredient group c) proved. The skin leaves behind the treatment with these most preferred components a much nicer, more vital, stronger impression with clear improved gloss and a very good grip both in the wet and also in the dry state. Furthermore, this active ingredient complex influences the regeneration and restructuring of the affected skin and of strained hair, leads to a regulation of the fat balance, so that the thus treated Smooth the skin and hair more slowly and not for overhydration inclines. additionally This drug complex shows an anti-inflammatory and the skin calming effect.

These Effects can for example, objectively using so-called DSC measurements as well be detected in the consumer test.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As vitamin A component according to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters such as the palmitate and the acetate into consideration. The agents according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total preparation.

• – Vitamin B₁ (Thiamin)
• – Vitamin B₂ (Riboflavin)
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden häufig die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäß verwendeten Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure, Panthenol und Pantolacton). Im Rahmen dieser Gruppe wird bevorzugt das Panthenol und/oder Pantolacton eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. Einzelne Vertreter sind beispielsweise das Panthenoltriacetat, der Panthenolmonoethylether und dessen Monoacetat sowie die in der WO 92/13829 offenbarten kationischen Panthenolderivate. Die genannten Verbindungen des Vitamin B₅-Typs sind in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05–10 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten. Mengen von 0,1–5 Gew.-% sind besonders bevorzugt.
• – Vitamin B₆ (Pyridoxin sowie Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal).

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ (thiamine)
• - Vitamin B ₂ (riboflavin)
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are often performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide which is contained in the agents used according to the invention preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid, panthenol and pantolactone). Panthenol and / or pantolactone are preferably used in the context of this group. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. Individual representatives are, for example, the panthenol triacetate, the panthenol monoethyl ether and its monoacetate and also the cationic panthenol derivatives disclosed in WO 92/13829. The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type are preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of 0.05-10% by weight, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.1-5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.
• - Vitamin B ₆ (pyridoxine and pyridoxamine and pyridoxal).

vitamin C (ascorbic acid). Vitamin C is preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total agent used. The Use in the form of palmitic acid ester, the glucoside or phosphates may be preferred. The usage in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

vitamin E (tocopherols, especially α-tocopherol). Tocopherol and its derivatives, including in particular the esters such as the acetate, the nicotinate, the phosphate and the succinate fall, are in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.05-1 Wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

vitamin F. By the term "vitamin F "are usually essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, linolenic and arachidonic acid, Understood.

vitamin H. The vitamin H is the compound (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid, for the But in the meantime, the trivial name Biotin has prevailed. biotin is in the inventive compositions preferably in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%.

Prefers contain the agents of the invention Vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors from groups A, B, E and N. Panthenol, pantolactone, pyridoxine and its derivatives as well nicotinamide and biotin are particularly preferred.

Farther are the naturally-analogous substances short-chain carboxylic acids (N) to count.

Advantageous in the context of the invention, short-chain carboxylic acids (N) as ingredient c) additionally in the active ingredient complex (A) can be used. Short-chain carboxylic acids and their derivatives in the context of the invention are understood to mean carboxylic acids which may be saturated or unsaturated and / or straight-chain or branched or cyclic and / or aromatic and / or heterocyclic and have a molecular weight of less than 750. For the purposes of the invention, preference may be given to saturated or unsaturated straight-chain or branched carboxylic acids having a chain length of from 1 to 16 C atoms in the chain, very particular preference being given to those having a chain length of from 1 to 12 C atoms in the chain.

A Use of the short chain carboxylic acids is the setting of the pH of the cosmetic according to the invention Compositions. However, the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention leads to an improved skin smoothness and to an improved skin texture and a smoothed hair structure.

Next the example listed above short-chain according to the invention carboxylic acids yourself can also their physiologically compatible Salts used according to the invention become. examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, Within the scope of the present application, the mono-, di- and trimethyl, ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are. In addition, you can but also with alkaline amino acids, such as arginine, Lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids are used. The Sodium, potassium, ammonium and arginine salts are preferred Salts. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons, the carboxylic acid as Active ingredient (c) from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

To the invention very particularly preferred active ingredients (c) count the hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxycarboxylic and the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids.

Examples for special suitable hydroxycarboxylic acids are glycolic acid, Glycerin acid, Lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or Citric acid. Of course includes the teaching of the invention also that these acids in the form of mixed salts, for example with amino acids become. This may be preferred according to the invention be.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers and chiral Isomers.

It is according to the invention also possible to use a mixture of several active substances (b).

The short-chain carboxylic acids in the sense of the invention have one, two, three or more carboxy groups. Preferred in Purpose of the invention are carboxylic acids with several carboxy groups, in particular di- and tricarboxylic acids. The Carboxy groups can in whole or in part as ester, acid anhydride, lactone, Amide, imidic acid, Lactam, lactim, dicarboximide, carbohydrazide, hydrazone, hydroxam, Hydroxime, amidine, amidoxime, nitrile, phosphonic or phosphate ester available. The carboxylic acids according to the invention may of course along be substituted the carbon chain or the ring skeleton. To the substituents of the carboxylic acids according to the invention are, for example, too counting C1-C8-alkyl, C2-C8-alkenyl, aryl, aralkyl and aralkenyl, hydroxymethyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkyl, C2-C8-hydroxyalkenyl, aminomethyl, C2-C8-aminoalkyl-, Cyano, formyl, oxo, thioxo, hydroxy, mercapto, amino, carboxy or imino groups. Preferred substituents are C 1 -C 8 -alkyl-, hydroxymethyl-, Hydroxy, amino and carboxy groups. Particularly preferred are substituents in α-position. Very particularly preferred substituents are hydroxy, alkoxy and Amino groups, where the amino function is optionally substituted by alkyl, Aryl, aralkyl and / or alkenyl radicals may be further substituted. Furthermore, also preferred carboxylic acid derivatives are the phosphonic and Phosphatester.

in der Z steht für eine lineare oder verzweigte Alkyl- oder Alkenylgruppe mit 4 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen, n für eine Zahl von 4 bis 12 sowie eine der beiden Gruppen X und Y für eine COOH-Gruppe und die andere für Wasserstoff oder einen Methyl- oder Ethylrest, Dicarbonsäuren der allgemeinen Formel (N-I), die zusätzlich noch 1 bis 3 Methyl- oder Ethylsubstituenten am Cyclohexenring tragen sowie Dicarbonsäuren, die aus den Dicarbonsäuren gemäß Formel (N-I) formal durch Anlagerung eines Moleküls Wasser an die Doppelbindung im Cyclohexenring entstehen.Examples of carboxylic acids according to the invention include formic acid, acetic acid, propionic acid, butyric acid, isobutyric acid, valeric acid, isovaleric acid, pivalic acid, oxalic acid, malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, glyceric acid, glyoxylic acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, propiolic acid, crotonic acid, isocrotonic acid , Elaidic, maleic, fumaric, muconic, citraconic, mesaconic, camphoric, benzoic, o, m, p-phthalic, naphthoic, toluoic, hydratropic, atropic, cinnamic, isonicotinic, nicotinic, bicarbamic, 4,4'-dicyano-6, 6'-binicotinic acid, 8-carbamoyloctanoic acid, 1,2,4-pentanetricarboxylic acid, 2-pyrrolecarboxylic acid, 1,2,4,6,7-naphthalene pentaacetic acid, malonaldehyde acid, 4-hydroxyphthalamic acid, 1-pyrazolecarboxylic acid, gallic acid or propane tricarboxylic acid, a dicarboxylic acid from the group formed by connections de r general formula (NI),

in the Z is a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl group having 4 to 12 carbon atoms, n is a number from 4 to 12 and one of the two groups X and Y is a COOH group and the other is hydrogen or a methyl or Ethyl radical, dicarboxylic acids of the general formula (NI), which additionally carry 1 to 3 methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexene ring and dicarboxylic acids formed formally from the dicarboxylic acids according to formula (NI) by addition of a molecule of water to the double bond in the cyclohexene ring.

Dicarboxylic acids of Formula (N-I) are known in the literature.

The dicarboxylic acids of the formula (N-I) for example, by reaction of polyunsaturated dicarboxylic acids with unsaturated Monocarboxylic acids be prepared in the form of a Diels-Alder cyclization. Usually one is called by a polyunsaturated fatty acid as Dicarboxylic acid go out. Preferably, the natural Fats and oils accessible Linoleic acid. As monocarboxylic acid component are in particular acrylic acid, but also z. For example, methacrylic acid and crotonic acid prefers. Usually occur in reactions according to Diels-Alder isomer mixtures, at which is a component in excess. These isomer mixtures can also according to the invention how the pure compounds are used.

Usable according to the invention in addition to the preferred dicarboxylic acids according to formula (N-I) are also dicarboxylic acids, from the compounds of the formula (N-I) by 1 to 3 differentiate methyl or ethyl substituents on the cyclohexyl ring or formally from these compounds by addition of one molecule of water be formed on the double formation of the cyclohexene ring.

The dicarboxylic acid (mixture), which is obtained by reacting linoleic acid with acrylic acid, has proved to be particularly effective according to the invention. It is a mixture of 5- and 6-carboxy-4-hexyl-2-cyclohexene-1-octanoic acid. Such compounds are commercially available under the designations Westvaco Diacid 1550 Westvaco Diacid ^{® ®} 1595 (manufacturer: Westvaco).

Next the example listed above short-chain according to the invention carboxylic acids yourself can also their physiologically compatible Salts used according to the invention become. examples for such salts are the alkali, alkaline earth, zinc salts and ammonium salts, Within the scope of the present application, the mono-, di- and trimethyl, ethyl and hydroxyethyl ammonium salts are. Very particularly preferred in the context of the invention, however, with alkaline-reacting amino acids, such as For example, arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine, neutralized acids be used. Furthermore, it may be preferred for formulation reasons be the carboxylic acid from the water-soluble Representatives, in particular the water-soluble salts.

Furthermore, it is preferred according to the invention to use hydroxycarboxylic acids and here again in particular the dihydroxy-, trihydroxy- and polyhydroxycarboxylic acids as well as the dihydroxy, trihydroxy and polyhydroxy di-, tri- and polycarboxylic acids together with the active compound (A). It has been found that in addition to the hydroxycarboxylic acids, the hydroxycarboxylic acid esters and the mixtures of hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters as well as polymeric hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters can be very particularly preferred. Preferred hydroxycarboxylic acid esters are, for example, full esters of glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or citric acid. Further basically suitable hydroxycarboxylic esters are esters of β-hydroxypropionic acid, tartronic acid, D-gluconic acid, sugar acid, mucic acid or glucuronic acid. As the alcohol component of these esters are primary, linear or branched aliphatic alcohols having 8-22 C atoms, ie, for. As fatty alcohols or synthetic fatty alcohols. The esters of C12-C15 fatty alcohols are particularly preferred. Esters of this type are commercially available, e.g. B. under the trademark Cosmacol ^® the EniChem, Augusta Industriale. Particularly preferred polyhydroxypolycarboxylic acids are polylactic acid and polyuric acid and their esters.

Very particular according to the invention Preferred are short-chain carboxylic acids in the context of the invention the so-called pleasure acids to use.

The active ingredients according to the invention (b) are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20 % By weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most especially preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight up to 5% by weight.

Further very particularly preferred nature-analogous substances of the compositions according to the invention are polyhydroxy compounds.

• – Polyole mit mindestens zwei Hydroxygruppen, wie beispielsweise Trimethylolpropan,
• – Kohlenhydrate, Zuckeralkohole und Zucker sowie deren Salze,
• – insbesondere Monosaccharide, Disaccharide, Trisaccharide und Oligosaccharide, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH- Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können,
• – Aminodesoxyzucker, Desoxyzucker, Thiozucker, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen, sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH- Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können, Ganz besonders bevorzugt sind hierunter Monosaccharide mit 3 bis 8 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Triosen, Tetrosen, Pentosen, Hexosen, Heptosen und Octosen, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH- Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können, weiterhin sind ganz besonders bevorzugt Oligosaccharide mit bis zu 50 Monomereinheiten, wobei diese auch in Form von Aldosen, Ketosen und/oder Lactosen sowie geschützt durch übliche und in der Literatur bekannte -OH- und -NH- Schutzgruppen, wie beispielsweise die Triflatgruppe, die Trimethylsilylgruppe oder Acylgruppen sowie weiterhin in Form der Methylether und als Phosphatester, vorliegen können.

For the purposes of the invention, polyhydroxy compounds (C) are understood as meaning all substances which fulfill the definition in Rompp's Lexikon der Chemie of 1999, Verlag Georg Thieme. Accordingly, polyhydroxy compounds are understood as meaning organic compounds having at least two hydroxyl groups. In particular, for the purposes of the present invention, this is to be understood as meaning:

• Polyols having at least two hydroxyl groups, such as, for example, trimethylolpropane,
• Carbohydrates, sugar alcohols and sugars and their salts,
• - In particular, monosaccharides, disaccharides, trisaccharides and oligosaccharides, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or Acyl groups and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters, may be present,
• - Aminodeoxyzucker, deoxysugars, thioxides, which also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses, as well as protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and further Monosaccharides having 3 to 8 C atoms, such as, for example, trioses, tetroses, pentoses, hexoses, heptoses and octoses, which are also present in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or in the form of methyl ethers and phosphate esters, are very particularly preferred. or lactoses and protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups, and furthermore in the form of the methyl ethers and as phosphate esters, are still very particularly preferred oligosaccharides with bis to 50 monomer units, these also in the form of aldoses, ketoses and / or lactoses and ge protected by conventional and known in the literature -OH and -NH protecting groups, such as the triflate, the trimethylsilyl or acyl groups and also in the form of methyl ethers and as a phosphate ester may be present.

exemplary for the polyols of the invention be mentioned Sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, tetrite, pentite, hexite, threitol, erythritol, Adonite, arabitol, xylitol, dulcitol, erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, Xylose, lyxose, glucose, galactose, mannose, allose, altrose, gulose, Idose, talose, fructose, sorbose, psicose, tegatose, deoxyribose, Glucosamine, galactosamine, rhamnose, digitoxose, thioglucose, sucrose, Lactose, trehalose, maltose, cellobiose, melibiose, gestiobiose, Rutinose, raffinose and cellotiose. Furthermore, please refer to the relevant specialist literature such as Beyer-Walter, textbook of organic chemistry, S. Hirzel Verlag Stuttgart, 19th edition, section III, pages 393 and following referenced.

preferred Polyhydroxy compounds are sorbitol, inositol, mannitol, threitol, erythride, Erythrose, threose, arabinose, ribose, xylose, glucose, galactose, Mannose, allose, fructose, sorbose, deoxyribose, glucosamine, galactosamine, Sucrose, lactose, trehalose, maltose and cellobiose. Especially preferred are glucose, galactose, mannose, fructose, deoxyribose, Glucosamine, sucrose, lactose, maltose and cellobiose used. However, very particular preference is the use of glucose, Galactose, mannose, fructose, sucrose, lactose, maltose or Cellobiose.

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes all isomeric forms, such as cis-trans isomers, diastereomers, epimers, Anomeric and chiral isomers.

It is according to the invention also possible, to use a mixture of several active substances (C).

The active ingredients according to the invention (C) are in the compositions in concentrations of 0.01% by weight up to 20 % By weight, preferably from 0.05% by weight up to 15% by weight and most especially preferably in amounts of from 0.1% by weight up to 10% by weight.

In a particularly preferred embodiment is as active ingredient c) at least one polyhydroxy compound having at least Contain 2 OH groups. Among these compounds are those with 2 to 12 OH groups and especially those with 2, 3, 4, 5, 6 or 10 OH groups are preferred.

Polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are, for example, glycol (CH ₂ (OH) CH ₂ OH) and others re 1,2-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13 , 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20. Also 1,3-diols such as H- (CH ₂ ) _n -CH (OH) CH ₂ CH ₂ OH with n = 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20 can be used according to the invention. The (n, n + 1) or (n, n + 2) diols with non-terminal OH groups can also be used.

Important Representatives of polyhydroxy compounds having 2 OH groups are also the polyethylene and polypropylene glycols.

Under The glycerol has a polyhydroxy compounds having 3 OH groups outstanding importance.

In summary are agents according to the invention preferred in which the polyhydroxy compound is selected from ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, Glycerol, glucose, fructose, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, mannitol, xylitol and their mixtures.

Independent of Type of polyhydroxy compound used having at least 2 OH groups are agents according to the invention preferably, which, based on the weight of the agent, 0.01 to 5 % By weight, preferably 0.05 to 4 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.05 to 3.5% by weight and in particular 0.1 to 2.5% by weight of polyhydroxy compound (s) contain.

With particular preference, the agents according to the invention may additionally comprise polyethylene glycol ethers of the formula (IV) H (CH ₂ ) _k (OCH ₂ CH ₂ ) _n OH (IV) in which k is a number between 1 and 18, with particular preference given to the values 0, 10, 12, 16 and 18 and n is a number between 2 and 20 with particular preference given to the values 2, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 , 10, 12 and 14 means. Preferred among these are the alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentahylene glycol, hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol and tetradecaethylene glycol, and the alkyl derivatives of dipropylene glycol, tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol, of pentapropylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol and tetradecapropylene glycol, of which the methyl, ethyl, propyl, n-butyl, n-pentyl, n-hexyl, n-heptyl, n-octyl, n-nonyl, n-decyl, n-undecyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

It It has been found that mixtures of "short chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers with such "long-chain" polyalkylene glycol ethers Have advantages. "Short- or long-chain "refers in this context, the degree of polymerization of the polyalkylene glycol. Particularly preferred are mixtures of polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 5 or less with polyalkylene glycol ethers with a degree of oligomerization of 7 or more.

Prefers are mixtures of alkyl derivatives of diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, tetraethylene glycol, pentathylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, of tripropylene glycol, tetrapropylene glycol or pentapropylene glycol with alkyl derivatives of hexaethylene glycol, heptaethylene glycol, of octaethylene glycol, nonaethylene glycol, decaethylene glycol, dodecaethylene glycol, hexapropylene glycol, heptapropylene glycol, octapropylene glycol, nonapropylene glycol, decapropylene glycol, dodecapropylene glycol or tetradecapropyolene glycol, wherein in both cases the n-octyl, n-decyl, n-dodecyl and n-tetradecyl derivatives are preferred.

Especially preferred agents according to the invention are characterized in that it at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV a) of the formula (IV), in the n for the numbers 2, 3, 4 or 5 and at least one polyalkylene glycol ether (IV b) of the formula (IV) contains, in the n for the numbers 10, 12, 14 or 16, wherein the weight ratio (IV b) to (IV a) 10: 1 to 1:10, preferably 7.5: 1 to 1: 5 and in particular 5: 1 to 1: 1.

A another group of ingredients which act as synergists c) for the polysiloxane Compounds a) in the active ingredient complex according to the invention (A) can be advantageously used, is the group of fatty substances (D).

Under Fats are understood to be fatty acids, fatty alcohols, natural and synthetic waxes. The fatty substances can both in solid form as well as liquid in aqueous dispersion may be present. Finally are natural under fatty substances and synthetic cosmetic oil components to understand.

As fatty acids (D1) it is possible to use linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms. Preferred are fatty acids with 10-22 carbon atoms. Among these could be mentioned, for example, isostearic as the commercial products Emersol ^® 871 and Emersol ^® 875, and isopalmitic acids such as the commercial product Edenor® IP 95, and all other products sold under the trade names Edenor ^® (Cognis) fatty acids. Further typical examples of such fatty acids are caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitoleic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic as well as their technical mixtures, the z. As in the pressure splitting of natural fats and oils, in the oxidation of aldehydes from the Roelen oxo synthesis or the dimerization of unsaturated fatty acids. Particularly preferred are usually the fatty acid cuttings obtainable from coconut oil or palm oil; In particular, the use of stearic acid is usually preferred.

The Amount used is thereby 0,1-15 % By weight, based on the total mean. The amount is preferably 0.5-10 % By weight, very particularly preferably amounts of from 1 to 5% by weight. could be.

As fatty alcohols (D2) it is possible to use saturated, mono- or polyunsaturated, branched or unbranched fatty alcohols with C ₆ -C ₃₀ -, preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₂ - and very particularly preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -carbon atoms. Decanols, octanols, dodecadienol, decadienol, oleyl alcohol, eruca alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, arachidyl alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol are, for example, decanol, octanolol, dodecadienol, decadienol , as well as their Guerbet alcohols, this list should have exemplary and non-limiting character. However, the fatty alcohols are derived from preferably natural fatty acids, which can usually be based on recovery from the esters of fatty acids by reduction. Also usable according to the invention are those fatty alcohol cuts which are produced by reducing naturally occurring triglycerides such as beef tallow, palm oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil and linseed oil or fatty acid esters formed from their transesterification products with corresponding alcohols, and thus represent a mixture of different fatty alcohols. Such substances are, for example, under the names Stenol ^® , z. B. Stenol ^® 1618 or Lanette ^®, z. B. Lanette ^® 0 or Lorol ^® , z. B. Lorol® ^® C8, Lorol® ^® C14, C18 Lorol® ^{®, ®} Lorol® C8-18, HD Ocenol ^®, Crodacol ^®, z. B. Crodacol CS ^{®, ®} Novol, Eutanol ^® G, Guerbitol ^® 16, Guerbitol ^® 18, Guerbitol® 20, Isofol ^® 12, Isofol ^® 16, Isofol ^® 24, Isofol ^® 36, Isocarb 12 ^{®, ®} Isocarb 16 or Isocarb ^® 24 for sale. Of course, wool wax alcohols, as are commercially available, for example under the names of Corona ^®, White Swan ^®, Coronet ^® or Fluilan ^® can be used according to the invention. The fatty alcohols are used in amounts of 0.1-30 wt .-%, based on the total preparation, preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%.

When natural or synthetic waxes (D3) used according to the invention be solid paraffins or isoparaffins, carnauba waxes, bee waxes, Candelilla, ozokerite, ceresin, spermaceti, sunflower wax, Fruit waxes such as apple wax or citrus wax, Microwachse made of PE or PP. Such waxes are available for example via the Fa. Kahl & Co., Trittau.

The Amount used is 0.1-50 Wt.% Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt.% And more preferably 0.1-15 % By weight relative to the total mean.

• – pflanzliche Öle. Beispiele für solche Öle sind Sonnenblumenöl, Olivenöl, Sojaöl, Rapsöl, Mandelöl, Jojobaöl, Orangenöl, Weizenkeimöl, Pfirsichkernöl und die flüssigen Anteile des Kokosöls. Geeignet sind aber auch andere Triglyceridöle wie die flüssigen Anteile des Rindertalgs sowie synthetische Triglyceridöle.
• – flüssige Paraffinöle, Isoparaffinöle und synthetische Kohlenwasserstoffe sowie Di-n-alkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether, Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether. Die als Handelsprodukte erhältlichen Verbindungen 1,3-Di-(2-ethyl-hexyl)-cyclohexan (Cetiol^® S) und Di-n-octylether (Cetiol^® OE) können bevorzugt sein.
• – Dicarbonsäureester wie Di-n-butyladipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-adipat, Di-(2-ethylhexyl)-succinat und Di-isotridecylacelaat sowie Diolester wie Ethylenglykol-dioleat, Ethylenglykol-di-isotridecanoat, Propylenglykol-di(2-ethylhexanoat), Propylenglykol-di-isostearat, Propylenglykol-di-pelargonat, Butandiol-di-isostearat, Neopentylglykoldicaprylat,
• – symmetrische, unsymmetrische oder cyclische Ester der Kohlensäure mit Fettalkoholen, beispielsweise beschrieben in der DE-OS 197 56 454, Glycerincarbonat oder Dicaprylylcarbonat (Cetiol^® CC),
• – Trifettsäureester von gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten linearen und/oder verzweigten Fettsäuren mit Glycerin,
• – Fettsäurepartialglyceride, das sind Monoglyceride, Diglyceride und deren technische Gemische. Bei der Verwendung technischer Produkte können herstellungsbedingt noch geringe Mengen Triglyceride enthalten sein. Die Partialglyceride folgen vorzugsweise der Formel (D4-I),
  
  in der R¹, R² und R³ unabhängig voneinander für Wasserstoff oder für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22, vorzugsweise 12 bis 18, Kohlenstoffatomen stehen mit der Maßgabe, daß mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für einen Acylrest und mindestens eine dieser Gruppen für Wasserstoff steht. Die Summe (m + n + q) steht für 0 oder Zahlen von 1 bis 100, vorzugsweise für 0 oder 5 bis 25. Bevorzugt steht R¹ für einen Acylrest und R² und R³ für Wasserstoff und die Summe (m + n + q) ist 0. Typische Beispiele sind Mono- und/oder Diglyceride auf Basis von Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, 2-Ethylhexansäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Isotridecansäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Elaeostearinsäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure und Erucasäure sowie deren technische Mischungen. Vorzugsweise werden Ölsäuremonoglyceride eingesetzt.

The natural and synthetic cosmetic oil bodies (D4), which can increase the action of the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention, include, for example:

• - vegetable oils. Examples of such oils are sunflower oil, olive oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, jojoba oil, orange oil, wheat germ oil, peach kernel oil and the liquid portions of coconut oil. Also suitable, however, are other triglyceride oils such as the liquid portions of beef tallow as well as synthetic triglyceride oils.
• Liquid paraffin oils, isoparaffin oils and synthetic hydrocarbons and di-n-alkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as, for example, di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n- nonyl ether, di-n-undecyl ether, di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di-tert-butyl ether, di-iso-pentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl-pentyl-n-octyl ether. The compounds 1,3-di- (2-ethyl-hexyl) -cyclohe available as commercial products xan (Cetiol ^® S), and di-n-octyl ether (Cetiol ^® OE) may be preferred.
• Dicarboxylic acid esters such as di-n-butyl adipate, di (2-ethylhexyl) adipate, di- (2-ethylhexyl) succinate and di-isotridecyl acelate, and diol esters such as ethylene glycol dioleate, ethylene glycol diisotridecanoate, propylene glycol di (2 ethylhexanoate), propylene glycol diisostearate, propylene glycol di-pelargonate, butanediol diisostearate, neopentyl glycol dicaprylate,
• - symmetrical, asymmetrical or cyclic esters of carbonic acid with fatty alcohols, for example described in DE-OS 197 56 454, glycerol carbonate or dicaprylyl carbonate (Cetiol ^® CC),
• Triflic acid esters of saturated and / or unsaturated linear and / or branched fatty acids with glycerol,
• - fatty acid partial glycerides, ie monoglycerides, diglycerides and their technical mixtures. With the use of technical products production reasons may still contain small amounts of triglycerides. The partial glycerides preferably follow the formula (D4-I),
  
  in which R ¹ , R ² and R ³ are each independently hydrogen or a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22, preferably 12 to 18, carbon atoms, with the proviso that at least one of these groups represents a Acyl radical and at least one of these groups is hydrogen. The sum (m + n + q) is 0 or numbers from 1 to 100, preferably 0 or 5 to 25. Preferably, R ^{1 is} an acyl radical and R ² and R ^{3 are} hydrogen and the sum (m + n + q) is 0. Typical examples are mono- and / or diglycerides based on caproic, caprylic, 2-ethylhexanoic, capric, lauric, isotridecanoic, myristic, palmitic, palmitic, stearic, isostearic, oleic, elaidic, petroselic, linoleic, linolenic , Elaeostearic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid and erucic acid and their technical mixtures. Preferably, oleic acid monoglycerides are used.

The Use amount of natural and synthetic cosmetic oil body in the agents according to the invention is usually 0.1-30 Wt.%, Based on the total agent, preferably 0.1-20 wt .-%, and in particular 0.1-15 Wt .-%.

Of course it includes the teaching of the invention also that a mixture of several fatty substances (D) from different Classes of fatty substances, at least two different classes of fat in the compositions of the invention can be used. The preferred mixtures of at least two oil and fat components in this case necessarily contain at least another silicone component. The silicone component is preferred selected in this case from the dimethiconols and the amodimethicones.

The Total amount of oil and fat components in the compositions of the invention is usually 0.5-75 Wt .-%, based on the total agent. Amounts of 0.5-35% by weight are preferred according to the invention.

A another group of ingredients that act as synergists c) in the active ingredient complex according to the invention (A) can be advantageously used, the group of the surface-active Substances. Among the surface active Substances are in particular surfactants and emulsifiers and solubilizers Understood.

The term surfactants (E) is understood to mean surface-active substances which can form adsorption layers on upper and boundary surfaces or which can aggregate in volume phases to give micelle colloids or lyotropic mesophases. A distinction is made between anionic surfactants consisting of a hydrophobic radical and a negatively charged hydrophilic head group, amphoteric surfactants which carry both a negative and a compensating positive charge, cationic surfactants which, in addition to a hydrophobic radical, have a positively charged hydrophilic group, and nonionic surfactants which have no charges but strong dipole moments and are highly hydrated in aqueous solution. Further definitions and properties of surfactants can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- and colloid chemistry, VCH Verlag society mbH. Weinheim, 1994. "The definition given above can be found in this document from page 190. The surfactants mentioned in the following are exclusively known compounds With regard to the structure and preparation of these substances, J.Falbe (ed. ), "Surfactants in Consumer Products", Springer Verlag, Berlin, 1987, pp. 54-124 or J.Falbe (ed.), "Catalysts, Surfactants and Mineral Oil Additives", Thieme Verlag, Stuttgart, 1978, pp. 123-217 directed.

• – lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen (Seifen),
• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe, sind seit langem bekannte, hautfreundliche oberflächenaktive Stoffe, die durch Veresterung von Fettsäuren mit dem Natriumsalz der 2-Hydroxyethan-sulfonsäure (Isethionsäure), z. B. nach dem Verfahren, das in US 3,320,292 beschrieben ist, zugänglich sind. Wenn man für diese Veresterung Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen, also z. B. Laurin-, Myristin-, Palimitin- oder Stearinsäure oder auch technische Fettsäurefraktionen, z. B. die aus Kokosfettsäure erhältliche C₁₂-C₁₈-Fettsäurefraktion einsetzt, erhält man die erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt geeigneten C₁₂-C₁₈ Acylisethionate. Es ist bekannt, die Natriumsalze von C₁₂-C₁₈-Acylisethionaten ähnlich wie Seifen auf Fettsäurebasis durch Kneten, Pilieren, Strangpressen, Extrudieren, Schneiden und Stückpressen in eine geeignete Form für den Transport und für die Anwendung zu bringen. Auf diese Weise lassen sich Nadeln, Granulate, Nudeln, Riegel und handliche Toilettenseifen-Stücke erzeugen.
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen. Die Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl(C₈-C₂₄)-ester-dinatriumsalze werden nach bekanntem Verfahren z. B. dadurch hergestellt, daß man Maleinsäureanhydrid mit einem Fettalkohol mit 8–24 C-Atomen zum Maleinsäuremonoester des Fettalkohols umsetzt und diesen mit Natriumsulfit zum Sulfobernsteinsäureester sulfitiert. Besonders geeignete Sulfobernsteinsäureester leiten sich von Fettalkoholfraktionen mit 12–18 C-Atomen ab, wie sie z. B. aus Kokosfettsäure oder Kokosfettsäuremethylester durch Hydrierung zugänglich sind.
• – lineare Alkansulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – lineare Alpha-Olefinsulfonate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen,
• – Alpha-Sulfofettsäuremethylester von Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen,
• – Alkylsulfate und Alkylpolyglykolethersulfate der Formel R-O(CH₂-CH₂O)_x OSO₃H, in der R eine bevorzugt lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 12 ist,
• – Gemische oberflächenaktiver Hydroxysulfonate gemäß DE-A-37 25 030,
• – sulfatierte Hydroxyalkylpolyethylen- und/oder Hydroxyalkylenpropylenglykolether gemäß DE-A-37 23 354,
• – Sulfonate ungesättigter Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen und 1 bis 6 Doppelbindungen gemäß DE-A-39 26 344,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
  
• – in der R¹ bevorzugt für einen aliphatischen Kohlenwasserstoffrest mit 8 bis 30 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff, einen Rest (CH₂CH₂O)_nR² oder X, n für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 und X für Wasserstoff, ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall oder NR³R⁴R⁵R⁶, mit R³ bis R⁶ unabhängig voneinander stehend für Wasserstoff oder einen C₁ bis C₄-Kohlenwasserstoffrest, steht,
• – sulfatierte Fettsäurealkylenglykolester der Formel (E1-II) R⁷CO(AlkO)_nSO₃M (E1-II) in der R⁷CO-für einen linearen oder verzweigten, aliphatischen, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 C-Atomen, Alk für CH₂CH₂, CHCH₃CH₂ und/oder CH₂CHCH₃, n für Zahlen von 0,5 bis 5 und M für ein Kation steht, wie sie in der DE-OS 197 36 906.5 beschrieben sind,
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III)
  
• – in der R⁸CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, x, y und z in Summe für 0 oder für Zahlen von 1 bis 30, vorzugsweise 2 bis 10, und X für ein Alkali- oder Erdalkalimetall steht. Typische Beispiele für im Sinne der Erfindung geeignete Monoglycerid(ether)sulfate sind die Umsetzungsprodukte von Laurinsäuremonoglycerid, Kokosfettsäuremonoglycerid, Palmitinsäuremonoglycerid, Stearinsäuremonoglycerid, Ölsäuremonoglycerid und Talgfettsäuremonoglycerid sowie deren Ethylenoxidaddukte mit Schwefeltrioxid oder Chlorsulfonsäure in Form ihrer Natriumsalze. Vorzugsweise werden Monoglyceridsulfate der Formel (E1-III) eingesetzt, in der R⁸CO für einen linearen Acylrest mit 8 bis 18 Kohlenstoffatomen steht, wie sie beispielsweise in der EP-B1 0 561 825, der EP-B1 0 561 999, der DE-A1 42 04 700 oder von A.K.Biswas et al. in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 37, 171 (1960) und F.U.Ahmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990) beschrieben worden sind,
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes. Diese werden durch Kondensation von C8–C30 Fettsäuren, bevorzugt von Fettsäuren mit 12–18 C-Atomen mit Aminosäuren, Mono-, Di- und wasserlöslichen Oligopeptiden und Gemischen solcher Produkte hergestellt, wie sie bei der Hydrolyse von Proteinen anfallen. Diese Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsprodukte werden mit einer Base neutralisiert und liegen dann bevorzugt als Alkali-, Ammonium-, Mono-, Di- oder Trialkanolammoniumsalz vor. Solche Produkte sind unter dem Warenzeichen Lamepon^®, Maypon^®, Gluadin^®, Hostapon^® KCG oder Amisoft^® seit langem im Handel erhältlich.

Suitable anionic surfactants (E1) in preparations according to the invention are all anionic surfactants suitable for use on the human body. These are characterized by a water-solubilizing, anionic group such as. As a carboxylate, sulfate, sulfonate or phosphate group and a lipophilic alkyl group having about 8 to 30 carbon atoms. In addition, glycol or polyglycol ether groups, ester, ether and amide groups and hydroxyl groups may be present in the molecule. Typical examples of anionic surfactants are alkylbenzenesulfonates, alkanesulfonates, olefinsulfonates, alkyl ether sulfonates, glycerol ether sulfonates, α-methyl ester sulfonates, sulfo fatty acids, alkyl sulfates, fatty alcohol ether sulfates, glycerol ether sulfates, hydroxy mixed ether sulfates, monoglyceride (ether) sulfates, fatty acid amide (ether) sulfates, mono- and dialkyl sulfosuccinates, mono- and Dialkyl sulfosuccinamates, sulfotriglycerides, amide soaps, ether carboxylic acids and their salts, fatty acid isethionates, fatty acid sarcosinates, fatty acid taurides, acyl lactylates, acyl tartrates, acyl glutamates, acyl aspartates, alkyl oligoglucoside sulfates, protein fatty acid condensates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and alkyl (ether) phosphates. If the anionic surfactants contain polyglycol ether chains, these may have a conventional, but preferably a narrow homolog distribution. Examples of particularly suitable anionic surfactants are, in each case in the form of the sodium, potassium and ammonium as well as the mono-, di- and trialkanolammonium salts having 2 to 4 C atoms in the alkanol group,

• - linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms (soaps),
• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group, are long known, skin-friendly surfactants by esterification of fatty acids with the sodium salt of 2-hydroxyethane-sulfonic acid (isethionic acid), eg. B. according to the method, in US 3,320,292 is described, are accessible. If you for this esterification fatty acids with 8 to 24 carbon atoms, ie z. As lauric, myristic, palmititic or stearic or technical fatty acid fractions, eg. For example, if the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acid fraction obtainable from coconut fatty acid is used, the C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates which are preferably suitable according to the invention are obtained. It is known that the sodium salts of C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acyl isethionates similar to fatty acid-based soaps by kneading, pilching, extrusion, extrusion, cutting and piece pressing in a suitable form for transport and for use to bring. In this way, needles, granules, noodles, bars and handy toilet soap pieces can be produced.
• - Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups. The Sulfobernsteinsäuremonoalkyl (C ₈ -C ₂₄ ) ester dinatrium salts are prepared by known methods z. B. prepared by reacting maleic anhydride with a fatty alcohol having 8-24 carbon atoms to maleic acid monoester of the fatty alcohol and sulfites this with sodium sulfite to Sulfobernsteinsäureester. Particularly suitable sulfosuccinic acid esters are derived from fatty alcohol fractions having 12-18 C atoms, as z. B. from coconut oil or Kokosfettsäuremethylester are accessible by hydrogenation.
• - linear alkanesulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• - linear alpha-olefin sulfonates having 8 to 24 carbon atoms,
• Alpha-sulfofatty acid methyl esters of fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms,
• Alkyl sulfates and alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates of the formula RO (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x OSO ₃ H, in which R is a preferably linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 12,
• Mixtures of surface-active hydroxysulfonates according to DE-A-37 25 030,
• Sulfated hydroxyalkylpolyethylene and / or hydroxyalkylene-propylene glycol ethers according to DE-A-37 23 354,
• Sulfonates of unsaturated fatty acids having 8 to 24 C atoms and 1 to 6 double bonds according to DE-A-39 26 344,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
  
• In which R ^{1 is} preferably an aliphatic hydrocarbon radical having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ^{2 is} hydrogen, a radical (CH ₂ CH ₂ O) _n R ² or X, n is from 1 to 10 and X is hydrogen, an alkali or alkaline earth metal or NR ³ R ⁴ R ⁵ R ⁶ , where R ³ to R ⁶ independently of one another represent hydrogen or a C ₁ to C ₄ -hydrocarbon radical,
• Sulfated fatty acid alkylene glycol esters of the formula (E1-II) R ⁷ CO (AlkO) _n SO ₃ M (E1-II) in the R ⁷ CO- for a linear or branched, aliphatic, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 C atoms, Alk for CH ₂ CH ₂ , CHCH ₃ CH ₂ and / or CH ₂ CHCH ₃ , n is a number from 0.5 to 5 and M is a cation, as described in DE-OS 197 36 906.5,
• Monoglyceride sulfates and monoglyceride ether sulfates of the formula (E1-III)
  
• - In which R ⁸ CO is a linear or branched acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, x, y and z in total is 0 or for numbers from 1 to 30, preferably 2 to 10, and X is an alkali or alkaline earth metal. Typical examples of monoglyceride (ether) sulfates suitable for the purposes of the invention are the reaction products of lauric acid monoglyceride, coconut fatty acid monoglyceride, palmitic acid monoglyceride, stearic acid monoglyceride, oleic acid monoglyceride and tallow fatty acid monoglyceride and their ethylene oxide adducts with sulfur trioxide or chlorosulfonic acid in the form of their sodium salts. Preferably, monoglyceride sulfates of the formula (E1-III) are used in which R ⁸ CO is a linear acyl radical having 8 to 18 carbon atoms, as described for example in EP-B1 0 561 825, EP-B1 0 561 999, DE -A1 42 04 700 or by AKBiswas et al. in J.Am.Oil. Chem. Soc. 37, 171 (1960) and FUAhmed in J.Am.Oil.Chem.Soc. 67, 8 (1990),
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• - Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product. These are prepared by condensation of C8-C30 fatty acids, preferably fatty acids with 12-18 C atoms with amino acids, mono-, di- and water-soluble oligopeptides and mixtures of such products as obtained in the hydrolysis of proteins. These protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation products are neutralized with a base and are then preferably present as alkali metal, ammonium, mono-, di- or Trialkanolammoniumsalz. Such products are available under the trademark Lamepon® ^®, Maypon ^®, Gluadin® ^®, Hostapon® ^® KCG or Amisoft ^® long been commercially.

preferred anionic surfactants are alkyl sulfates, alkyl polyglycol ether sulfates and ether carboxylic acids with 10 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and up to 12 glycol ether groups in the molecule, sulfosuccinic and -dialkylester having 8 to 18 C-atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic monoalkylpolyoxyethylester having 8 to 18 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups, Monoglycerisulfates, alkyl and Alkenyletherphosphate and protein fatty acid condensates.

Zwitterionic surfactants (E2) are those surface-active compounds which carry in the molecule at least one quaternary ammonium group and at least one -COOL ^(-) or -SO ₃ ^(-) group. Particularly suitable zwitterionic surfactants are the so-called betaines such as N-alkyl-N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoalkyl dimethylammonium glycinate, N-acylaminopropyl N, N-dimethylammonium glycinates, for example cocoacylaminopropyl-dimethylammonium glycinate, and 2-alkyl 3-carboxymethyl-3-hydroxyethyl-imidazolines having in each case 8 to 18 carbon atoms in the alkyl or acyl group and the Kokosacylaminoethylhydroxyethylcarboxymethylglycinat. A preferred zwitterionic surfactant is the fatty acid amide derivative known by the INCI name Cocamidopropyl Betaine.

Ampholytic surfactants (E3) are understood as meaning those surface-active compounds which contain, in addition to a C ₈ -C ₂₄ -alkyl or -acyl group, at least one free amino group and at least one -COOH or -SO ₃ H group in the molecule and are capable of forming internal salts. Examples of suitable ampholytic surfactants are N-alkylglycines, N-alkylpropionic acids, N-alkylaminobutyric acids, N-alkyliminodipropionic acids, N-hydroxyethyl-N-alkylamidopropylglycines, N-alkyltaurines, N-alkylsarcosines, 2-alkylaminopropionic acids and alkylaminoacetic acids each having about 8 to 24 C Atoms in the alkyl group. Typical examples of amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants are alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, amino-propionates, aminoglycinates, imidazolinium betaines and sulfobetaines.

Particularly preferred ampholytic surfactants are N-cocoalkylaminopropionate, cocoacylaminoethylaminopropionate and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ acylsarcosine.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettalkoholpolyglykolether bzw. die Fettalkoholpolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettalkoholpolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 6 bis 30 C-Atomen, die Fettsäurepolyglykolether bzw. die Fettsäurepolypropylenglykolether bzw. gemischte Fettsäurepolyether,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, die Alkylphenolpolyglykolether bzw. die Alkylpolypropylenglykolether, bzw. gemischte Alyklphenolpolyether,
• – mit einem Methyl- oder C₂-C₆-Alkylrest endgruppenverschlossene Anlagerungsprodukte von 2 bis 50 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare und verzweigte Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe, wie beispielsweise die unter den Verkaufsbezeichnungen Dehydol^® LS, Dehydol^® LT (Cognis) erhältlichen Typen,
• – C₁₂-C₃₀-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Glycerin,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol – Typen (Cognis),
• – alkoxilierte Triglyceride,
• – alkoxilierte Fettsäurealkylester der Formel (E4-I) R¹CO-(OCH₂CHR²)_wOR³(E4-I) in der R¹CO für einen linearen oder verzweigten, gesättigten und/oder ungesättigten Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R² für Wasserstoff oder Methyl, R³ für lineare oder verzweigte Alkylreste mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und w für Zahlen von 1 bis 20 steht,
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II), R⁴O-[G]_p (E4-II)in der R⁴ für einen Alkyl- oder Alkenylrest mit 4 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, G für einen Zuckerrest mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen und p für Zahlen von 1 bis 10 steht. Sie können nach den einschlägigen Verfahren der präparativen organischen Chemie erhalten werden. Stellvertretend für das umfangreiche Schrifttum sei hier auf die Übersichtsarbeit von Biermann et al. in Starch/Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) sowie J. Kahre et al. in SCOFW-Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995) verwiesen.

Nonionic surfactants (E4) contain as hydrophilic group z. A polyol group, a polyalkylene glycol ether group or a combination of polyol and polyglycol ether groups. Such compounds are, for example

• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide onto linear and branched fatty alcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty alcohol polyglycol ethers or the fatty alcohol polypropyleneglycol ethers or mixed fatty alcohol polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty acids having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the fatty acid polyglycol ethers or the fatty acid polyethers or mixed fatty acid polyethers,
• Addition products of 2 to 50 mol of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear and branched alkylphenols having 8 to 15 C atoms in the alkyl group, the alkylphenol polyglycol ethers or the alkylpolypropylene glycol ethers, or mixed alkylpolyolpolyethers,
• - with a methyl or C ₂ -C ₆ alkyl radical end-capped addition products of 2 to 50 moles of ethylene oxide and / or 0 to 5 moles of propylene oxide to linear and branched fatty alcohols having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 8 to 30 C atoms and onto alkylphenols having 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group, such as those available under the trade names Dehydol ^® LS, LT Dehydol ^® types (Cognis),
• C ₁₂ -C ₃₀ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide with glycerol,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol - types (Cognis),
• - alkoxylated triglycerides,
• - alkoxylated fatty acid alkyl esters of the formula (E4-I) R ¹ CO- (OCH ₂ CHR ² ) _w OR ³ (E4-I) in the R ¹ CO for a linear or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms R ^{2 is} hydrogen or methyl, R ^{3 is a} linear or branched alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and w is a number from 1 to 20,
• - amine oxides,
• Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II), R ⁴ O- [G] _p (E4-II) in which R ^{4 is} an alkyl or alkenyl radical having 4 to 22 carbon atoms, G is a sugar radical having 5 or 6 carbon atoms and p is a number from 1 to 10. They can be obtained by the relevant methods of preparative organic chemistry. Representative of the extensive literature is here on the review by Biermann et al. in Starch / Stärke 45, 281 (1993), B. Salka in Cosm.Toil. 108, 89 (1993) and J. Kahre et al. in SCOFW Journal Heft 8, 598 (1995).

• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide, ein nichtionisches Tensid der Formel (E4-III),
  
  in der R⁵CO für einen aliphatischen Acylrest mit 6 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen, R⁶ für Wasserstoff, einen Alkyl- oder Hydroxyalkylrest mit 1 bis 4 Kohlenstoffatomen und [Z] für einen linearen oder verzweigten Polyhydroxyalkylrest mit 3 bis 12 Kohlenstoffatomen und 3 bis 10 Hydroxylgruppen steht. Bei den Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamiden handelt es sich um bekannte Stoffe, die üblicherweise durch reduktive Aminierung eines reduzierenden Zuckers mit Ammoniak, einem Alkylamin oder einem Alkanolamin und nachfolgende Acylierung mit einer Fettsäure, einem Fettsäurealkylester oder einem Fettsäurechlorid erhalten werden können. Hinsichtlich der Verfahren zu ihrer Herstellung sei auf die US-Patentschriften US 1,985,424 , US 2,016,962 und US 2,703,798 sowie die Internationale Patentanmeldung WO 92/06984 verwiesen. Eine Übersicht zu diesem Thema von H.Kelkenberg findet sich in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). Vorzugsweise leiten sich die Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide von reduzierenden Zuckern mit 5 oder 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere von der Glucose ab. Die bevorzugten Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide stellen daher Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide dar, wie sie durch die Formel (E4-IV) wiedergegeben werden: R¹CO-(NR⁸)-CH₂-[CH(OH)]₄-CH₂OH (E4-IV)
• Vorzugsweise werden als Fettsäure-N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamide Glucamide der Formel (E4-IV) eingesetzt, in der R⁸ für Wasserstoff oder eine Alkylgruppe steht und R⁷CO für den Acylrest der Capronsäure, Caprylsäure, Caprinsäure, Laurinsäure, Myristinsäure, Palmitinsäure, Palmoleinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Ölsäure, Elaidinsäure, Petroselinsäure, Linolsäure, Linolensäure, Arachinsäure, Gadoleinsäure, Behensäure oder Erucasäure bzw. derer technischer Mischungen steht. Besonders bevorzugt sind Fettsäure-N-alkylglucamide der Formel (E4-IV), die durch reduktive Aminierung von Glucose mit Methylamin und anschließende Acylierung mit Laurinsäure oder C12/14-Kokosfettsäure bzw. einem entsprechenden Derivat erhalten werden. Weiterhin können sich die Polyhydroxyalkylamide auch von Maltose und Palatinose ableiten.

The alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycosides can be derived from aldoses or ketoses with 5 or 6 carbon atoms, preferably glucose. The preferred alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides are thus alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglucosides. The index number p in the general formula (E4-II) indicates the degree of oligomerization (DP), ie the distribution of mono- and oligoglycosides and stands for a number between 1 and 10. While p in the individual molecule must always be integer and here before For all given values p = 1 to 6, the value p for a given alkyloligoglycoside is an analytically determined arithmetic size, which usually represents a fractional number. Preferably, alkyl and / or Alkenyloligoglyko used side with a mean degree of oligomerization p of 1.1 to 3.0. From an application point of view, those alkyl and / or alkenyl oligoglycosides whose degree of oligomerization is less than 1.7 and in particular between 1.2 and 1.4 are preferred. The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ⁴ can be derived from primary alcohols having 4 to 11, preferably 8 to 10 carbon atoms. Typical examples are butanol, caproic alcohol, caprylic alcohol, capric alcohol and undecyl alcohol and technical mixtures thereof, as obtained, for example, in the hydrogenation of technical fatty acid methyl esters or in the hydrogenation of aldehydes from Roelen's oxo synthesis. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides of the chain length C ₈ -C ₁₀ (DP = 1 to 3) which are obtained as a feedstock in the distillative separation of technical C ₈ -C ₁₈ coconut fatty alcohol and in a proportion of less than 6% by weight C ₁₂ - Alcohol may be contaminated as well as alkyl oligoglucosides based on technical C _9/11 oxo alcohols (DP = 1 to 3). The alkyl or alkenyl radical R ¹⁵ can also be derived from primary alcohols having 12 to 22, preferably 12 to 14 carbon atoms. Typical examples are lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, palmoleyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, elaidyl alcohol, petroselinyl alcohol, arachyl alcohol, gadoleyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, erucyl alcohol, brassidyl alcohol, and technical mixtures thereof which can be obtained as described above. Preference is given to alkyl oligoglucosides based on hydrogenated C _12/14 coconut alcohol having a DP of 1 to 3.

• Sugar surfactants of the fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamide type, a nonionic surfactant of the formula (E4-III),
  
  R ^{5 is} CO for an aliphatic acyl radical having 6 to 22 carbon atoms, R ^{6 is} hydrogen, an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and [Z] is a linear or branched polyhydroxyalkyl radical having 3 to 12 carbon atoms and 3 to 10 hydroxyl groups stands. The fatty acid N-alkyl polyhydroxyalkylamides are known substances which can usually be obtained by reductive amination of a reducing sugar with ammonia, an alkylamine or an alkanolamine and subsequent acylation with a fatty acid, a fatty acid alkyl ester or a fatty acid chloride. For the methods for their preparation, see the US patents US 1,985,424 . US 2,016,962 and US 2,703,798 and International Patent Application WO 92/06984. An overview of this topic by H.Kelkenberg can be found in Tens. Surf. Det. 25, 8 (1988). The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are preferably derived from reducing sugars having 5 or 6 carbon atoms, in particular from glucose. The preferred fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides are therefore fatty acid N-alkylglucamides as represented by the formula (E4-IV): R ¹ CO- (NR ⁸ ) -CH ₂ - [CH (OH)] ₄ -CH ₂ OH (E4-IV)
• The fatty acid N-alkylpolyhydroxyalkylamides used are preferably glucamides of the formula (E4-IV) in which R ^{8 is} hydrogen or an alkyl group and R ^{7 is} CO for the acyl radical of caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, palmitic acid, Stearic acid, isostearic acid, oleic acid, elaidic acid, petroselic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid or erucic acid or their technical mixtures. Particular preference is given to fatty acid N-alkylglucamides of the formula (E4-IV) which are obtained by reductive amination of glucose with methylamine and subsequent acylation with lauric acid or C 12/14 coconut fatty acid or a corresponding derivative. Furthermore, the polyhydroxyalkylamides can also be derived from maltose and palatinose.

The Sugar surfactants can in the invention used Agents preferably in amounts of 0.1-20 wt .-%, based on the entire means, be included. Amounts of 0.5-15 wt .-% are preferred, and very particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.5 to 7.5% by weight.

Further typical examples of nonionic surfactants are fatty acid amide polyglycol ethers, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, mixed ethers or mixed formals, protein hydrolysates (especially wheat-based vegetable products) and polysorbates.

As preferred nonionic surfactants, the alkylene oxide adducts to saturated linear fatty alcohols and fatty acids having in each case 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide per mole of fatty alcohol or fatty acid and the sugar surfactants have proven. Preparations with excellent properties are also obtained when they contain fatty acid esters of ethoxylated glycerol as nonionic surfactants.

These Connections are identified by the following parameters. The alkyl radical R contains 6 to 22 carbon atoms and can be both linear and branched be. Preference is given to primary linear and methyl-branched in the 2-position aliphatic radicals. Such Examples of alkyl radicals are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl, 1-cetyl and 1-stearyl. Particularly preferred are 1-octyl, 1-decyl, 1-lauryl, 1-myristyl. When using so-called "oxo-alcohols" as starting materials, compounds predominate an odd number of carbon atoms in the alkyl chain.

at it may be the compounds with alkyl groups used as surfactant each are uniform substances. It is, however, in usually preferred in the preparation of these substances by native vegetable or animal raw materials, so that you substance mixtures obtained with different, depending on the raw material alkyl chain lengths.

at the surfactants, the adducts of ethylene and / or propylene oxide represent fatty alcohols or derivatives of these addition products, can both products with a "normal" homolog distribution as well as those with a narrow homolog distribution become. Under "normal" homolog distribution are understood to mean mixtures of homologs which are used in the Reaction of fatty alcohol and alkylene oxide using alkali metals, Alkali metal hydroxides or alkali metal alcoholates as catalysts receives. Narrowed homolog distributions are obtained when, for example Hydrotalcites, alkaline earth metal salts of ether carboxylic acids, alkaline earth metal oxides, hydroxides or alcoholates are used as catalysts. The use of products with narrow homolog distribution may be preferred.

As additives for further improving the creaminess of the foam and the feel on the skin during and after use, nonionic surfactants have also proven useful, the additional use of which may be recommended for preparing the compositions according to the invention. Particular preference is therefore given to compositions according to the invention having an additional content of 0.1 -20% by weight of nonionic surfactants having an HLB value of 2-18. Such products can be prepared by addition of ethylene oxide to z. B. fatty alcohols having 6-30 carbon atoms, to fatty acids having 6-30 carbon atoms or to glycerol or sorbitan fatty acid partial esters based on C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty acids or produced on Fettsäurealkanolamide. The HLB value means the proportion of hydrophilic groups, eg. As to glycol ether or polyol groups based on the total molecule and it is calculated by the relationship HLB = 1/5 × (100 wt% L), where wt .-% L of the proportion by weight of lipophilic groups, ie z. B. to alkyl or acyl groups having 6-30 carbon atoms in the surfactant molecule represents.

Usable according to the invention are also cationic surfactants (E5) of the quaternary ammonium type, the esterquats, the imidazolines and the amidoamines. Preferred quaternary ammonium compounds are ammonium halides, especially chlorides and bromides, such as Alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, dialkyldimethylammonium chlorides and trialkylmethylammonium chlorides, e.g. Cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride, distearyldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylammonium chloride, Lauryldimethylbenzylammoniumchlorid and tricetylmethylammonium chloride, as well as those under the INCI names Quaternium-27 and quaternium-83 known imidazolium compounds. The long alkyl chains of the above surfactants are preferred 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typical examples of cationic Surfactants are quaternary Ammonium compounds and esterquats, in particular quaternized fatty acid trialkanolamine ester salts.

According to the invention, cationic compounds containing behenyl radicals, in particular the substances known as behentrimonium chloride or bromide (docosanyltrimethylammonium chloride or bromide), can be used with particular preference. Other preferred QAVs have at least two behenyl residues. Commercially available, these substances are, for example, under the designations Genamin ^® KDMP (Clariant).

Esterquats are known substances which contain both at least one ester function and at least one quaternary ammonium group as a structural element. Preferred ester quats are quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with triethanolamine, quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with diethanolalkylamines and quaternized ester salts of fatty acids with 1,2-dihydroxypropyldialkylamines. Such Products are marketed under the trade names Stepantex® ^{®, ®} and Dehyquart® Armocare® ^®. The products Armocare ^® VGH-70, a N, N-bis (2-palmitoyloxyethyl) dimethylammonium chloride, as well as Dehyquart ^® F-75, Dehyquart ^® C-4046, Dehyquart ^® L80 and Dehyquart ^® AU-35 are examples of such esterquats.

When other cationic surfactants can the agents according to the invention at least one quaternary Imidazoline compound, d. H. a compound that has a positively charged Imidazoline ring has included. The following Formula (E5-V) shows the structure of these compounds.

The Radicals R are independent each other for each a saturated one or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical with a chain length of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The preferred compounds of the formula I contain for Each R is the same hydrocarbon radical. The chain length of the radicals R is preferably 12 carbon atoms. Particularly preferred are compounds with a chain length of at least 16 carbon atoms, and most preferably with at least 20 carbon atoms. A very particularly preferred Compound of formula I has a chain length of 21 carbon atoms. A commercial product of this chain length is, for example, under the name Quaternium-91 known. In the formula (E5-V) is represented as the counterion methosulfate. According to the invention However, as counterions, the halides such as chloride, fluoride, Bromide, or phosphates.

The Imidazolines of the formula (E5-V) are in the compositions of the invention in amounts of from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably in amounts of from 0.05 to 10 wt.% And most preferably in amounts of 0.1 to 7.5 % By weight. The best results are with quantities from 0.1 to 5% by weight, based in each case on the total composition of the respective agent.

The alkylamidoamines are usually prepared by amidation of natural or synthetic fatty acids and fatty acid cuts with dialkylaminoamines. A according to the invention particularly suitable compound from this group of substances under the name Tegoamid ^® S 18 commercially available stearamidopropyl dimethylamine. The alkylamidoamines can be present both as such and converted by protonation in accordance acid solution into a quaternary compound in the composition, they Of course, they can also be used as a permanent quaternary compound in the compositions according to the invention. Examples of permanently quaternized amidoamines include the raw materials with the trade name Rewoquat ^® UTM 50, Lanoquat ^® DES-50 or Empigen CSC.

The cationic surfactants (E5) are used in the invention Agents preferably in amounts of 0.05 to 10 wt .-%, based on the entire remedy, included. Amounts of 0.1 to 5 wt .-% are particularly preferred.

anionic, nonionic, zwitterionic and / or amphoteric surfactants as well their mixtures can preferred according to the invention be.

The Surfactants (E) are used in amounts of 0.1-45% by weight, preferably 0.5-30% by weight. and most preferably from 0.5 to 25% by weight, based on the entire used in the invention Medium, used.

• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 4 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid und/oder 0 bis 5 Mol Propylenoxid an lineare Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen, an Fettsäuren mit 12 bis 22 C-Atomen und an Alkylphenole mit 8 bis 15 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe,
• – C₁₂-C₂₂-Fettsäuremono- und -diester von Anlagerungsprodukten von 1 bis 30 Mol Ethylenoxid an Polyole mit 3 bis 6 Kohlenstoffatomen, insbesondere an Glycerin,
• – Ethylenoxid- und Polyglycerin-Anlagerungsprodukte an Methylglucosid-Fettsäureester, Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettsäureglucamide,
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine. Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),
• – Lineare und verzweigte Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und deren Na-, K-, Ammonium-, Ca-, Mg- und Zn-Salze.

Furthermore, the surface-active substances include emulsifiers (F). Emulsifiers effect at the phase interface the formation of water- or oil-stable adsorption layers, which protect the dispersed droplets against coalescence and thus stabilize the emulsion. Emulsifiers are therefore constructed like surfactants from a hydrophobic and a hydrophilic part of the molecule. Hydrophilic emulsifiers preferably form O / W emulsions and hydrophobic emulsifiers preferably form W / O emulsions. U.N An emulsion is a droplet-like distribution (dispersion) of a liquid in another liquid with the expenditure of energy to create stabilizing phase interfaces by means of surfactants. The selection of these emulsifying surfactants or emulsifiers depends on the substances to be dispersed and the respective outer phase and the fineness of the emulsion. Further definitions and properties of emulsifiers can be found in "H.-D.Dörfler, Grenzflächen- und Kolloidchemie, VCH Verlagsgesellschaft mbH, Weinheim, 1994". Emulsifiers which can be used according to the invention are, for example

• Addition products of from 4 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide and / or from 0 to 5 mol of propylene oxide onto linear fatty alcohols having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, to fatty acids containing from 12 to 22 carbon atoms and to alkylphenols having from 8 to 15 carbon atoms in the alkyl group,
• C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ -fatty acid mono- and diesters of addition products of from 1 to 30 mol of ethylene oxide onto polyols having from 3 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular to glycerol,
• Ethylene oxide and polyglycerol addition products to methyl glucoside fatty acid esters, fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty acid glucamides,
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - sterols. Sterols are understood to mean a group of steroids which have a hydroxyl group on C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated both from animal tissue (zoosterols) and from vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),
• - Linear and branched fatty acids with 8 to 30 carbon atoms and their Na, K, ammonium, Ca, Mg and Zn salts.

When Particularly advantageous is also an addition of a known per se Emulsifier of the water-in-oil type in an amount of about 1-5 % By weight proved. It is a mixed ester, the a condensation product of a pentaerythritol di-fatty acid ester and a citric acid di-fatty alcohol ester, as in DE-PS 11 65 574 closer is described. The addition of such mixed esters becomes a special one Creamy, fine-bubble foam and a pleasant feeling on the skin Application of body cleanser reached.

The agents according to the invention contain the emulsifiers preferably in amounts of 0.1-25 wt .-%, in particular 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total agent.

Prefers can the compositions of the invention at least one nonionic emulsifier having an HLB value of 8 to 18, according to the im Römpp-Lexikon Chemistry (ed. J. Falbe, M. Regitz), 10th edition, Georg Thieme Verlag Stuttgart, New York, (1997), page 1764, listed definitions. Nonionic emulsifiers with an HLB value of 10-15 can be particularly preferred according to the invention be preferred.

According to the invention preferred surfactants Substances are the so-called mild surfactants. The Mildness of surfactants and emulsifiers can be achieved with different methods be determined. For example, the neutral red test, the HET-CAM test, the human skin model or the so-called BUS (bovine udder skin) model used. Common to all testing methods that in principle is measured against a standard on which the results are obtained.

• – Ethercarbonsäuren der Formel R-O-(CH₂-CH₂O)_x-CH₂-COOH, in der R eine lineare Alkylgruppe mit 8 bis 30 C-Atomen und x = 0 oder 1 bis 16 ist,
• – Acylsarcoside mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acyltauride mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe,
• – Acylisethionate mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Acylgruppe
• – Sulfobernsteinsäuremono- und -dialkylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und Sulfobernsteinsäuremono-alkylpolyoxyethylester mit 8 bis 24 C-Atomen in der Alkylgruppe und 1 bis 6 Oxyethylgruppen,
• – Ester der Weinsäure und Zitronensäure mit Alkoholen, die Anlagerungsprodukte von etwa 2–15 Molekülen Ethylenoxid und/oder Propylenoxid an Fettalkohole mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen darstellen,
• – Alkyl- und/oder Alkenyletherphosphate der Formel (E1-I),
• – Monoglyceridsulfate und Monoglyceridethersulfate der Formel (E1-III),
• – Amidethercarbonsäuren wie sie in der EP 0 690 044 beschrieben sind,
• – Kondensationsprodukte aus einem wasserlöslichen Salz eines wasserlöslichen Eiweißhydrolysat-Fettsäure-Kondensationsproduktes,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Polyolfettsäureester, wie beispielsweise das Handelsprodukt Hydagen^® HSP (Cognis) oder Sovermol-Typen (Cognis),
• – Aminoxide,
• – Hydroxymischether, wie sie beispielsweise in der DE-OS 19738866 beschrieben sind,
• – Sorbitanfettsäureester und Anlagerungeprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Sorbitanfettsäureester wie beispielsweise die Polysorbate,
• – Zuckerfettsäureester und Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Zuckerfettsäureester,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von Ethylenoxid an Fettsäurealkanolamide und Fettamine,
• – Zuckertenside vom Typ der Alkyl- und Alkenyloligoglykoside gemäß Formel (E4-II),
• – Esterquats,
• – Alkylamidoamine und quaternierte Alkylamidoamine.
• – C₈-C₂₂-Alkylmono- und -oligoglycoside und deren ethoxylierte Analoga, wobei Oligomerisierungsgrade von 1,1 bis 5, insbesondere 1,2 bis 2,0, und Glucose als Zuckerkomponente bevorzugt sind,
• – Gemische aus Alkyl-(oligo)-glucosiden und Fettalkoholen zum Beispiel das im Handel erhältliche Produkt Montanov^®68,
• – Anlagerungsprodukte von 5 bis 60 Mol Ethylenoxid an Rizinusöl und gehärtetes Rizinusöl,
• – Partialester von Polyolen mit 3–6 Kohlenstoffatomen mit gesättigten Fettsäuren mit 8 bis 22 C-Atomen,
• – Sterine, Als Sterine wird eine Gruppe von Steroiden verstanden, die am C-Atom 3 des Steroid-Gerüstes eine Hydroxylgruppe tragen und sowohl aus tierischem Gewebe (Zoosterine) wie auch aus pflanzlichen Fetten (Phytosterine) isoliert werden. Beispiele für Zoosterine sind das Cholesterin und das Lanosterin. Beispiele geeigneter Phytosterine sind Ergosterin, Stigmasterin und Sitosterin. Auch aus Pilzen und Hefen werden Sterine, die sogenannten Mykosterine, isoliert.
• – Phospholipide. Hierunter werden vor allem die Glucose-Phospolipide, die z. B. als Lecithine bzw. Phospahtidylcholine aus z. B. Eidotter oder Pflanzensamen (z. B. Sojabohnen) gewonnen werden, verstanden.
• – Fettsäureester von Zuckern und Zuckeralkoholen, wie Sorbit,
• – Polyglycerine und Polyglycerinderivate wie beispielsweise Polyglycerinpoly-12-hydroxystearat (Handelsprodukt Dehymuls^® PGPH),

According to these test methods, the following preferred surfactants have been found to be mild to particularly mild:

• Ether carboxylic acids of the formula RO- (CH ₂ -CH ₂ O) _x -CH ₂ -COOH, in which R is a linear alkyl group having 8 to 30 C atoms and x = 0 or 1 to 16,
• Acylsarcosides having 8 to 24 C atoms in the acyl group,
• Acyltaurides having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group,
• - Acylisethionate having 8 to 24 carbon atoms in the acyl group
• Sulfosuccinic acid mono- and dialkyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and sulfosuccinic acid monoalkyl polyoxyethyl esters having 8 to 24 C atoms in the alkyl group and 1 to 6 oxyethyl groups,
• Esters of tartaric acid and citric acid with alcohols which are adducts of about 2-15 molecules of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with fatty alcohols containing 8 to 22 carbon atoms,
• Alkyl and / or alkenyl ether phosphates of the formula (E1-I),
• Monoglyceride sulphates and monoglyceride ether sulphates of the formula (E1-III),
• Amide ether carboxylic acids as described in US Pat EP 0 690 044 are described
• Condensation products of a water-soluble salt of a water-soluble protein hydrolyzate-fatty acid condensation product,
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• - polyol, such as the commercially available product ^® Hydagen HSP (Cognis) or Sovermol types (Cognis),
• - amine oxides,
• Hydroxy mixed ethers, as described, for example, in DE-OS 19738866,
• Sorbitan fatty acid esters and adducts of ethylene oxide with sorbitan fatty acid esters such as the polysorbates,
• Sugar fatty acid esters and addition products of ethylene oxide with sugar fatty acid esters,
• Adducts of ethylene oxide with fatty acid alkanolamides and fatty amines,
• Sugar surfactants of the alkyl and alkenyl oligoglycoside type of formula (E4-II),
• - Esterquats,
• - Alkylamidoamines and quaternized alkylamidoamines.
• C ₈ -C ₂₂ -alkylmono- and -oligoglycosides and their ethoxylated analogues, preference being given to degrees of oligomerization of from 1.1 to 5, in particular from 1.2 to 2.0, and glucose as the sugar component,
• Glucosides mixtures of alkyl (oligo) and fatty alcohols, for example, the commercially available product ^® Montanov 68, -
• Adducts of 5 to 60 moles of ethylene oxide with castor oil and hydrogenated castor oil,
• Partial esters of polyols having 3-6 carbon atoms with saturated fatty acids having 8 to 22 C atoms,
• - Sterols, Sterols is a group of steroids that carry a hydroxyl group at C-atom 3 of the steroid skeleton and are isolated from animal tissue (zoosterols) as well as vegetable fats (phytosterols). Examples of zoosterols are cholesterol and lanosterol. Examples of suitable phytosterols are ergosterol, stigmasterol and sitosterol. Mushrooms and yeasts are also used to isolate sterols, the so-called mycosterols.
• - Phospholipids. These include, above all, the glucose phospholipids, which are z. B. as lecithins or Phospahtidylcholine from z. Egg yolks or plant seeds (eg soybeans) are understood.
• Fatty acid esters of sugars and sugar alcohols, such as sorbitol,
• - polyglycerols and polyglycerol derivatives such as polyglycerol poly-12-hydroxystearate (commercial product Dehymuls ^® PGPH),

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes also that these particularly mild surface-active Substances used both individually and mixed in the combination of active substances according to the invention can be.

One very special advantage in the use of this particular surface-active Substances as active component c) together with the active substance complex (A) is that the cosmetic products produced therewith, in particular foaming Medium, a very good foaming behavior, an excellent Creaminess, excellent foam stability and a very high foam volume exhibit. This is the case even if so-called strong foaming surfactants Substances such as alkyl sulfates or alkyl ether sulfates largely dispensed with. A far-reaching abandonment Alkyl ether sulfates and alkyl sulfates means that the proportion of these surfactants Substances at most 8 wt.% Based on the total composition. Prefers is the proportion of alkyl ether sulfate and / or alkyl sulfate only 5 wt.%.

in the Following are special and preferred additional ingredients of the present invention.

Furthermore, an agent according to the invention may also contain UV filters (I). The UV filters to be used according to the invention are not subject to any general restrictions with regard to their structure and their physical properties. On the contrary, all UV filters that can be used in the cosmetics sector are suitable sorption maximum in UVA (315-400 nm) -, in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in the UVC (<280 nm) range. UV filters with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, in particular in the range from about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

The Inventive drug combination (A) increased clearly the deposition of UV filters on the skin and hair. This has significant consequences. On the one hand, with the same concentration in comparison to prior art compositions, the SPF elevated become. On the other hand, the sun protection factor can become a usual Composition with a lower concentration of UV filter be achieved. This has a commercial advantage as well less stress on the skin and hair of the consumer. UV protection compositions are thus much more compatible.

The used according to the invention UV filters can for example, selected are substituted benzophenones, p-aminobenzoic acid esters, diphenylacrylates, cinnamic, salicylates, Benzimidazoles and o-aminobenzoic acid esters.

Examples of UV filters which can be used according to the invention are 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline-methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate (homosalates), 2- hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone (benzophenone-3; Uvinul ^® M 40, Uvasorb MET ^{®, ®} Neo Heliopan BB, Eusolex ^® 360), 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts (phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Parsol ^® HS; Neo Heliopan Hydro ^®), 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo [2.2.1] hept-1-yl methane-sulfonic acid) and salts thereof, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) Methoxydibenzoylmethane -propane-1,3-dione (butyl; Parsol ^® 1789 Eusolex ^® 9020), α- ( 2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and salts thereof, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester (PEG-25 PABA; Uvinul ^® P 25), 4-dimethylaminobenzoic acid 2-ethylhexyl (octyl dimethyl PABA; Uvasorb ^® DMO, Escalol ^® 507, Eusolex ^® 6007), salicylic acid-2-ethylhexyle ster (octyl salicylate; Escalol ^® 587, Neo Heliopan OS ^®, Uvinul ^® 018), 4-methoxycinnamate (Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate; Neo Heliopan ^® E 1000), 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester (Octyl Methoxycinnamate; Parsol ^® MCX, Escalol ^® 557, Neo Heliopan ^® AV), 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt (Benzophenone -4; Uvinul ^® MS 40; Uvasorb S 5 ^®), 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor (4-methylbenzylidene camphor; Parsol ^® 5000, Eusolex ^® 6300), 3-benzylidene camphor (3 Benzylidene camphor), 4-isopropylbenzyl salicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and their ethyl esters, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} -acrylamids, 2,4-dihydroxy (benzophenone-1; Uvasorb ^® 20 H, Uvinul ^® 400) 1 , 1'-Diphenylacrylonitrilsäure-2-ethylhexyl ester (Octocrylene; Eusolex ^® OCR, Neo Heliopan ^® Type 303, Uvinul ^® N 539 SG), o-aminobenzoic acid menthyl ester (menthyl Anthranilate; Neo Heliopan MA ^®), 2,2 ' , 4,4'-tetrahydroxy benzophenone (benzophenone-2; Uvinul ^® D-50), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxyben zophenone (benzophenone-6), 2,2'-dihydroxy-4,4'-dimethoxybenzophenone-5-sodium sulfonate and 2-cyano-3,3-diphenylacrylic acid 2'-ethylhexyl ester. Preference is given to 4-aminobenzoic acid, N, N, N-trimethyl-4- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidenemethyl) aniline methylsulfate, 3,3,5-trimethylcyclohexyl salicylate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2 Phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 3,3 '- (1,4-phenylenedimethylene) -bis (7,7-dimethyl-2-oxo-bicyclo- [2.2.1] hept- 1-yl-methanesulfonic acid) and its salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, α- (2-oxoborn-3-ylidene) toluene-4-sulfonic acid and its salts, ethoxylated 4-aminobenzoic acid ethyl ester, 2-ethylhexyl 4-dimethylaminobenzoate, 2-ethylhexyl salicylate, isopentyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxycinnamate, 2-hydroxy-4 -methoxybenzophenone-5-sulfonic acid and its sodium salt, 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor, 3-benzylidene-camphor, 4-isopropylbenzylsalicylate, 2,4,6-trianilino- (p-carbo-2 'ethylhexyl-1'-oxi) -1,3,5-triazine, 3-imidazol-4-yl-acrylic acid and its ethyl ester, polymers of N - {(2 and 4) - [2-ox Oborn-3-ylidenemethyl] benzyl} acrylamide. Very particularly preferred according to the invention are 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulfonic acid and its potassium, sodium and triethanolamine salts, 1- (4-tert-butylphenyl) -3- (4-methoxyphenyl) -propane-1,3-dione, 4-methoxycinnamic acid 2-ethylhexyl ester and 3- (4'-methylbenzylidene) -D, L-camphor.

Prefers are those UV filters whose molar extinction coefficient at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Furthermore, it has been found that structurally similar UV filters in many cases, the water-insoluble compound in the teaching of the invention has the higher effect compared to such water-soluble compounds that differ from it by one or more additional ionic groups. In the context of the invention, water-insoluble are to be understood as meaning those UV filters which dissolve in water at 20 ° C. to not more than 1% by weight, in particular not more than 0.1% by weight. Furthermore, should these compounds in conventional cosmetic oil components at room temperature to at least 0.1, in particular at least 1 wt .-% be soluble). The use of water-insoluble UV filters may therefore be preferred according to the invention.

According to one another embodiment the invention, those UV filters are preferred which are cationic Group, in particular a quaternary Ammonium group.

These UV filters have the general structure U-Q.

Of the Structural part U stands for a UV-absorbing group. This group can work in principle from the known, usable in the cosmetics sector, mentioned above Derive UV filters in which a group, usually a hydrogen atom, of the UV filter by a cationic group Q, in particular with a quaternary Amino function, is replaced.

• – substituierte Benzophenone,
• – p-Aminobenzoesäureester,
• – Diphenylacrylsäureester,
• – Zimtsäureester,
• – Salicylsäureester,
• – Benzimidazole und
• – o-Aminobenzoesäureester.

Compounds from which the structural part U can derive are, for example

• Substituted benzophenones,
• P-aminobenzoic acid ester,
• - diphenylacrylic acid ester,
• - cinnamic acid ester,
• Salicylic acid ester,
• Benzimidazoles and
• O-aminobenzoic acid ester.

structural parts U, derived from cinnamamide or derived from N, N-dimethylaminobenzoic acid amide are preferred according to the invention.

The Structural parts U can chosen in principle be that Absorption maximum of UV filters in both UVA (315-400 nm) -, as well as in the UVB (280-315nm) - or in UVC (<280 nm) range can be. UV filter with an absorption maximum in the UVB range, especially in the range of about 280 to about 300 nm, are particularly preferred.

Farther is the structural part U, also in dependence on structural part Q, preferably chosen that the molar extinction coefficient of the UV filter at the absorption maximum above 15,000, especially above 20,000.

Of the Structure part Q contains as a cationic group, a quaternary ammonium group is preferred. This quaternary ammonium group can in principle be connected directly to the structural part U, so that the Structural part U one of the four substituents of the positively charged Represents nitrogen atom. However, one of the four is preferred Substituents on the positively charged nitrogen atom is a group, in particular an alkylene group having 2 to 6 carbon atoms, which as a compound between the structural part U and the positively charged nitrogen atom acts.

Advantageously, the group Q has the general structure - (CH ₂ ) _x -N ⁺ R ¹ R ² R ³ X ^- , in which x is an integer from 1 to 4, R ¹ and R ² independently of one another are C _{1 -4} alkyl groups, R ³ is a C _1-22 alkyl group or a benzyl group and X ^{- is} a physiologically acceptable anion. In the context of this general structure, x preferably represents the number 3, R ¹ and R ² each represent a methyl group and R ^{3 represents} either a methyl group or a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon chain having 8 to 22, in particular 10 to 18, carbon atoms.

physiological compatible Anions are, for example, inorganic anions such as halides, in particular chloride, bromide and fluoride, sulfate ions and phosphate ions and organic anions such as lactate, citrate, acetate, tartrate, methosulfate and tosylate.

Two preferred UV filters with cationic groups are the commercially available compounds cinnamic acid trimethyl ammonium chloride (Incroquat ^® UV-283), and dodecyl-dimethylaminobenzamidopropyldimethylammoniumtosylat (Escalol ^® HP 610).

Of course, the teaching of the invention includes also the use of a combination of several UV filters. in the Frame of this embodiment is the combination of at least one water-insoluble UV filter with at least a UV filter with a cationic group is preferred.

The UV filters (I) are customary in the compositions used according to the invention in amounts of 0.1-5% by weight, based on the total mean, included. Amounts of 0.4-2.5% by weight are preferred.

Further optional ingredients of the compositions of the invention are Deodorizers.

The Inventive drug combination (A) increased Clearly analytically verifiable the deposition of Deowirkstoffen on the skin. In the panel test, this also goes through, among other things a significantly extended lasting effect noticeable.

As Deowirkstoffe come z. As antiperspirants such as aluminum chlorohydrates in question. These are colorless, hygroscopic crystals which easily deliquesce in the air and are formed on evaporation of aqueous aluminum chloride solutions. Aluminum chlorohydrate is used for the preparation of antiperspirant and deodorant preparations and probably acts by partially blocking the sweat glands through Eiweiβ- and / or Polysaccharidfällung (see FIG. J.Soc.Cosm.Chem. 24, 281 (1973)]. Under the mark Locron ^® Hoechst AG, Frankfurt / FRG, for example, is an aluminum chlorohydrate commercially, which corresponds to the formula [Al ₂ (OH) ₅ Cl] * 2.5 H ₂ O and whose use is particularly preferred (see J.Pharm.Pharmacol 26, 531 (1975)] .Otherhydroxylactates and acidic aluminum / zirconium salts can be used in addition to the chlorohydrates, esterase inhibitors may also be added as further deodorizing agents, these are preferably trialkyl citrates such as trimethyl citrate, tripropyl citrate, triisopropyl citrate, tributyl citrate and in particular triethyl citrate (US Pat. Hydagen ^® CAT, COGNIS) The substances inhibit the enzyme activity and thereby reduce the formation of odors einlich is thereby released by the cleavage of the citric acid ester, the free acid that lowers the pH on the skin so far that thereby the enzymes are inhibited. Further substances which are suitable as esterase inhibitors are dicarboxylic acids and their esters, for example glutaric acid, glutaric acid monoethyl ester, glutaric acid diethyl ester, adipic acid, adipic acid monoethyl ester, diethyl adipate, malonic acid and diethyl malonate, hydroxycarboxylic acids and their esters, for example citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid or diethyl tartrate. Antibacterial agents that affect the bacterial flora and kill sweat-degrading bacteria or inhibit their growth may also be included in the stick formulations. Examples of these are chitosan, phenoxyethanol and chlorhexidine gluconate. Particularly effective are also 5-chloro-2- (2,4-dichlorophenoxy) phenol has proven that is marketed under the brand name Irgasan ^® by Ciba-Geigy, Basle / CH.

Further most preferred optional ingredients of the compositions, which the active ingredient combination according to the invention (A) are dye precursors. Among dye precursors are Developer (X1) and coupler type oxidation dye precursors (X2), natural and synthetic direct dyes (Y) and precursors of natural analogue Dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of Representatives of one or more of these groups

When such can Developer (X1) and coupler type oxidation dye precursors (X2), natural and synthetic direct dyes (Y) and precursors of natural analogue Dyes, such as indole and indoline derivatives, and mixtures of Representatives of one or more of these groups.

As developer-type oxidation dye precursors (X1) are usually primary aromatic amines having a further, in the para or ortho position, free or substituted hydroxy or amino group, diaminopyridine derivatives, heterocyclic hydrazones, 4-aminopyrazole derivatives and 2,4,5, 6-tetraaminopyrimidine and its derivatives used. Suitable developer components are, for example, p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, o-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) -p phenylenediamine, 2- (2,5-diaminophenoxy) ethanol, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2,4,5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2 , 5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2,4-dihydroxy-5,6-diaminopyrimidine, 2-dimethylamino-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxymethylamino-4-amino-phenol, bis (4-aminophenyl) amine, 4-amino-3-fluorophenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2-hydroxymethyl-4-aminophenol, 4-amino-2 - ((diethylamino) -methyl) -phenol, bis (2-hydroxy-5-aminophenyl ) -methane, 1,4-bis (4-aminophenyl) -diazacycloheptane, 1,3-bis (N (2-hydroxyethyl) -N (4-aminophenylamino)) - 2-propanol, 4-amino-2- ( 2-hydroxyethoxy) phenol, 1,10-bis (2,5-diaminophenyl) -1,4,7,10-tetraoxadecane and 4,5-diaminopyrazole derivatives EP 0 740 741 or WO 94/08970 such. B. 4,5-diamino-1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) pyrazole. Particularly advantageous developer components are p-phenylenediamine, p-toluenediamine, p-aminophenol, 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) -2,5-diaminobenzene, 4-amino-3-methylphenol, 2-aminomethyl-4-aminophenol, 2,4 , 5,6-tetraaminopyrimidine, 2-hydroxy-4,5,6-triaminopyrimidine, 4-hydroxy-2,5,6-triaminopyrimidine.

As coupler-type oxidation dye precursors (X2), m-phenylenediamine is usually used derivatives, naphthols, resorcinol and resorcinol derivatives, pyrazolones and m-aminophenol derivatives. Examples of such coupler components are m-aminophenol and its derivatives such as 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 5- (3-hydroxypropylamino) -2-methylphenol, 3-amino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 2-hydroxy-4 -aminophenoxyethanol, 2,6-dimethyl-3-aminophenol, 3-trifluoroacetylamino-2-chloro-6-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-chloro-2-methylphenol, 5-amino-4-methoxy-2-methylphenol, 5 - (2'-hydroxyethyl) -amino-2-methylphenol, 3- (diethylamino) -phenol, N-cyclopentyl-3-aminophenol, 1,3-dihydroxy-5- (methylamino) -benzene, 3- (ethylamino) - 4-methylphenol and 2,4-dichloro-3-aminophenol, o-aminophenol and its derivatives, m-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 2,4-diaminophenoxyethanol, 1,3-bis (2,4-diaminophenoxy) -propane , 1-Methoxy-2-amino-4- (2'-hydroxyethylamino) benzene, 1,3-bis- (2,4-diaminophenyl) -propane, 2,6-bis (2-hydroxyethylamino) -1-methylbenzene and 1-amino-3-bis (2'-hydroxyethyl) aminobenzene, o-diaminobenzene and its derivatives such as 3,4-diaminobenzoic acid and 2,3-diamino-1-met hylbenzene, di- or trihydroxybenzene derivatives such as resorcinol, resorcinol monomethyl ether, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol, 2-chlororesorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, pyrogallol and 1,2,4-trihydroxybenzene, pyridine derivatives such as 2 , 6-dihydroxypyridine, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, 2-amino-5-chloro-3-hydroxypyridine, 3-amino-2-methylamino-6-methoxypyridine, 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine, 2 , 6-dihydroxy-4-methylpyridine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 2,3-diamino-6-methoxypyridine and 3,5-diamino-2,6-dimethoxypyridine, naphthalene derivatives such as 1-naphthol, 2-methyl-1 naphthol, 2-hydroxymethyl-1-naphthol, 2-hydroxyethyl-1-naphthol, 1,5-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,6-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 1,8-dihydroxynaphthalene, 2,7-dihydroxynaphthalene and 2, 3-Dihydroxynaphthalene, morpholine derivatives such as 6-hydroxybenzomorpholine and 6-aminobenzomorpholine, quinoxaline derivatives such as 6-methyl-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Pyra zolderivate such as 1-phenyl-3-methylpyrazol-5-one, indole derivatives such as 4-hydroxyindole, 6-hydroxyindole and 7-hydroxyindole, methylenedioxybenzene derivatives such as 1-hydroxy-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene, 1-amino-3,4 -methylenedioxybenzene and 1- (2'-hydroxyethyl) amino-3,4-methylenedioxybenzene.

Especially suitable coupler components are 1-naphthol, 1,5-, 2,7- and 1,7-dihydroxynaphthalene, 3-aminophenol, 5-amino-2-methylphenol, 2-amino-3-hydroxypyridine, resorcinol, 4-chlororesorcinol, 2-chloro-6-methyl-3-aminophenol, 2-methylresorcinol, 5-methylresorcinol, 2,5-dimethylresorcinol and 2,6-dihydroxy-3,4-dimethylpyridine.

Substantive Dyes are common Nitrophenylenediamines, nitroaminophenols, azo dyes, anthraquinones or indophenols. Particularly suitable substantive dyes are those under the international names or trade names HC Yellow 2, HC Yellow 4, HC Yellow 5, HC Yellow 6, Basic Yellow 57, Disperse Orange 3, HC Red 3, HC Red BN, Basic Red 76, HC Blue 2, HC Blue 12, Disperse Blue 3, Basic Blue 99, HC Violet 1, Disperse Violet 1, Disperse Violet 4, Disperse Black 9, Basic Brown 16 and Basic Brown 17 known compounds and 1,4-bis (β-hydroxyethyl) amino-2-nitrobenzene, 4-amino-2-nitrodiphenylamine-2'-carboxylic acid, 6-nitro-1,2,3,4-tetrahydroquinoxaline, Hydroxyethyl 2-nitro-toluidine, picramic acid, 2-amino-6-chloro-4-nitrophenol, 4-ethylamino-3-nitrobenzoic acid and 2-chloro-6-ethylamino-1-hydroxy-4-nitrobenzene.

In the naturally occurring direct dyes are, for example Henna red, henna neutral, chamomile flower, sandalwood, black tea, Buckthorn bark, sage, bluewood, madder root, Catechu, Sedre and Contain alcano root.

It is not required that the Oxidation dye precursors or direct dyes each represent uniform connections. Rather, in the hair colorants according to the invention, due to the production process for the individual dyes, be contained in minor amounts still other components as far as these are not the dyeing result adversely affect or for other reasons, eg. B. toxicological, must be excluded.

When Precursors of naturally-analogous dyes are, for example, indoles and indolines and their physiologically acceptable salts. Prefers Such indoles and indolines are used, the at least one Hydroxy or amino group, preferably as a substituent on the six-membered ring, exhibit. These groups can bear further substituents, for. B. in the form of an etherification or Esterification of the hydroxy group or alkylation of the amino group. Particularly advantageous properties have 5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, 5,6-dihydroxyindoline-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindoline, 6-aminoindoline and 4-aminoindoline and 5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, 5,6-dihydroxyindole-2-carboxylic acid, 6-hydroxyindole, 6-aminoindole and 4-aminoindole.

Especially noteworthy within this group are N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindoline and in particular 5,6-dihydroxyindoline and N-methyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-ethyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-propyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole, N-butyl-5,6-dihydroxyindole and in particular the 5,6-dihydroxyindole.

The Indoline and indole derivatives in the context of the inventive method used colorants both as free bases and in the form of their physiologically acceptable Salts with inorganic or organic acids, e.g. The hydrochlorides, the sulfates and hydrobromides used.

at the use of dye precursors of the indoline or indole type For example, it may be preferred to combine them with at least one amino acid and / or to use at least one oligopeptide. Preferred amino acids are amino carboxylic acids, in particular α-aminocarboxylic acids and ω-aminocarboxylic acids. Under the α-aminocarboxylic acids are arginine, lysine, ornithine and histidine are particularly preferred. A most preferred amino acid is arginine, especially in free form, but also as hydrochloride used.

Either the oxidation dye precursors as well as the substantive Dyes and the precursors of naturally occurring dyes are in the agents according to the invention preferably in amounts of 0.01 to 20 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 5 wt .-%, each based on the total agent included.

Of the Advantage which is achieved by the active ingredient combination (A) according to the invention achieved in conjunction with the dye precursors, is a significantly improved deposition of dye precursors on the hair. additionally to an increased Deposition on the hair causes the active substance complex according to the invention also a faster penetration into the hair. Furthermore, the desirable Hair color trained faster. The application time of the composition can be shortened by at least 10% for the same dyeing result. A shortening the application time is up to 40% with the combination according to the invention same coloring result is possible. All of these effects are combined with increased wash resistance achieved the trained hair color. The invention concludes the teaching on the other hand, because of the effects achieved, on the other hand, the Concentration of dyes can be significantly reduced. This On the one hand, it is of great economic importance, on the other hand but this also means a significant improvement of the dermatological compatibility the entire composition.

A very particularly preferred composition of the invention therefore cosmetic means for coloring of skin and hair containing the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention and a dye precursor, as well as the use of this agent and a method of hair coloring with this remedy.

hair dyes, especially if the coloration oxidative, be it with atmospheric oxygen or other oxidizing agents such as hydrogen peroxide, usually become weakly acidic to alkaline, d. H. to pH values in the range of about 5 to 11, set. For this purpose, the colorants contain alkalizing agents, usually Alkali or alkaline earth hydroxides, ammonia or organic amines. Preferred alkalizing agents are monoethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol, Z-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-ethyl-1,3-propanediol, 2-amino-2-methylbutanol and triethanolamine and alkali and alkaline earth metal hydroxides. In particular, monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and 2-amino-2-methyl-propanol and 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol are within this group prefers. Also, the use of ω-amino acids such as ω-aminocaproic acid as Alkalizing agent is possible.

He follows the training of the actual hair colors in the context of an oxidative Process, so common oxidants, in particular hydrogen peroxide or its addition products be used on urea, melamine or sodium borate. The oxidation however, with atmospheric oxygen as the sole oxidant be preferred. Furthermore, it is possible to use the oxidation to carry out enzymes, the enzymes being used both to produce oxidizing per-compounds be used as well as to enhance the effect of a low Amount of existing oxidizing agents, or even enzymes are used the electrons from suitable developer components (reducing agent) transferred to atmospheric oxygen. Oxidases such as tyrosinase, ascorbate oxidase and Laccase but also glucose oxidase, uricase or pyruvate oxidase. Farther be the procedure mentioned, the effect of small amounts (eg 1% and less, based on total agent) of hydrogen peroxide to amplify by peroxidases.

Conveniently, the preparation of the oxidizing agent is then mixed with the preparation with the dye precursors immediately prior to dyeing the hair. The resulting ready-to-use Hair dye preparation should preferably have a pH in the range of 6 to 10. Particularly preferred is the use of the hair dye in a weakly alkaline medium. The application temperatures may range between 15 and 40 ° C, preferably at the temperature of the scalp. After a contact time of about 5 to 45, especially 15 to 30, minutes, the hair dye is removed by rinsing of the hair to be dyed. The washing with a shampoo is eliminated if a strong surfactant-containing carrier, eg. As a dyeing shampoo was used.

Especially in hard-to-dye Hair can prepare with the dye precursors without prior Mixing with the oxidation component applied to the hair become. After an exposure time of 20 to 30 minutes then - if necessary after an intermediate rinse - the oxidation component applied. After another exposure time of 10 to 20 minutes is then rinsed and if desired shampooed. In this embodiment, according to a first variant, in which the previous application of the dye precursors to effect a better penetration into the hair, the corresponding Medium adjusted to a pH of about 4 to 7. According to one second variant is first a Air oxidation, with the applied agent being preferred has a pH of 7 to 10. At the subsequent accelerated Post-oxidation may be the use of acidified peroxydisulfate solutions as Oxidizing agent may be preferred.

Furthermore, the formation of the coloration can be supported and increased by adding certain metal ions to the agent. Such metal ions are, for example, Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ , Fe ²⁺ , Fe ³⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Mn ²⁺ , Li ⁺ , Mg ²⁺ , Ca ²⁺ and Al ³⁺ . Particularly suitable are Zn ²⁺ , Cu ²⁺ and Mn ²⁺ . The metal ions can in principle be used in the form of any physiologically acceptable salt. Preferred salts are the acetates, sulfates, halides, lactates and tartrates. By using these metal salts, both the formation of the dyeing can be accelerated and the color shade can be specifically influenced.

In a further embodiment the teaching of the invention It may be preferable to use the active ingredient complex (A) directly in dyeing or tint to incorporate, that means the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention in Use combination with dyes and / or dye precursors.

• – aromatische Alkohole, wie beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Benzylalkohol, Phenethylalkohol, Phenoxyisopropanol,
• – Aldehyde wie beispielsweise Formaldehydlösung und Paraformaldehyd, Glutaraldehyd
• – Parabene, beispielsweise Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben
• – 1,2-Alkandiole mit 5 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kohlenstoffkette, wie beispielsweise 1,2-Pentandiol, 1,2-Hexandiol, 1,2-Heptandiol, 1,2-Dekandiol, 1,2-Dodekandiol, 1,2-Hexadekandiol,
• – Formaldehyd abspaltende Verbindungen, wie beispielsweise DMDM Hydantoin, Diazolidinyl Urea
• – Halogenierte Verbindungen wie beispielsweise Isothiazolinone, wie beispielsweise Methylchloroisothiazolinon/Methylisothiazolinone, Triclosan, Triclocarban, Iodopropynylbutylcarbamat, 5-Bromo-5-Nitro-1,3-Dioxan, Chlorhexidindigluconat und Chlorhexidinacetat, 2-Bromo-2-Nitropropan-1,3-diol, Methyldibromoglutaronitril,
• – Anorganische Verbindungen wie beispielsweise Sulfite, Borsäure und Borate, Bisulfite,
• – Kationische Substanzen wie beispielsweise Quaternium-15, Benzalkoniumchlorid, Benzethoniumchlorid, Polyaminopropylbiguanid,
• – Organische Säuren und deren physiologisch verträgliche Salze wie beispielsweise Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Essigsäure, Benzoesäure, Sorbinsäure, Salicylsäure, Dehydroacetsäure
• – Aktive Wirkstoffe mit zusätzlichen Wirkungen wie beispielsweise Zink-Pyrithion, Piroctonolamin,
• – Antioxidantien wie beispielsweise BHT (butyliertes Hydroxytoluol), BHA (butyliertes Hydroxyanisol), Propylgallat, t-Butylhydrochinon,
• – Komplexbildner wie beispielsweise EDTA und dessen Derivate, HEDTA und dessen Derivate, Etidronic Acid und deren Salze,
• – Sowie Mischungen der zuvor aufgeführten Stoffe.

Further optional ingredients which can be used in cosmetic compositions together with the active ingredient complex (A) according to the invention are preservatives. Suitable preservatives are, for example:

• Aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
• - Aldehydes such as formaldehyde solution and paraformaldehyde, glutaraldehyde
• Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
• 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2 -Hexadekandiol,
• Formaldehyde releasing compounds such as DMDM hydantoin, diazolidinyl urea
• - Halogenated compounds such as isothiazolinones such as methylchloroisothiazolinone / methylisothiazolinone, triclosan, triclocarban, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 5-bromo-5-nitro-1,3-dioxane, chlorhexidine digluconate and chlorhexidine acetate, 2-bromo-2-nitropropane-1,3-diol , Methyldibromoglutaronitrile,
• Inorganic compounds such as sulfites, boric acid and borates, bisulfites,
• Cationic substances such as quaternium-15, benzalkonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, polyaminopropyl biguanide,
• - Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid
• Active agents with additional effects such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine,
• Antioxidants such as BHT (butylated hydroxytoluene), BHA (butylated hydroxyanisole), propyl gallate, t-butylhydroquinone,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA and its derivatives, HEDTA and its derivatives, Etidronic Acid and salts thereof,
• - As well as mixtures of the substances listed above.

• – aromatische Alkohole, wie beispielsweise Phenoxyethanol, Benzylalkohol, Phenethylalkohol, Phenoxyisopropanol,
• – Parabene, beispielsweise Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Propylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben
• – 1,2-Alkandiole mit 5 bis 22 Kohlenstoffatomen in der Kohlenstoffkette, wie beispielsweise 1,2-Pentandiol, 1,2-Hexandiol, 1,2-Heptandiol, 1,2-Dekandiol, 1,2-Dodekandiol, 1,2-Hexadekandiol,
• – Organische Säuren und deren physiologisch verträgliche Salze wie beispielsweise Citronensäure, Milchsäure, Essigsäure, Benzoesäure, Sorbinsäure, Salicylsäure, Dehydroacetsäure.

Furthermore, the substance classes listed in Appendix 6, Part A and B of the Cosmetics Regulation are used. Particularly preferred is a mild preservation. For this the following substances and their mixtures are used:

• Aromatic alcohols, such as, for example, phenoxyethanol, benzyl alcohol, phenethyl alcohol, phenoxyisopropanol,
• Parabens, for example methylparaben, ethylparaben, propylparaben, butylparaben, isobutylparaben
• 1,2-alkanediols having 5 to 22 carbon atoms in the carbon chain, such as 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-heptanediol, 1,2-decanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,2 -Hexadekandiol,
• - Organic acids and their physiologically acceptable salts such as citric acid, lactic acid, acetic acid, benzoic acid, sorbic acid, salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid.

In Another particularly preferred type of composition according to the invention can also affect the water activity in the compositions of the invention as far as that growth of microorganisms is not reduced more can take place. In particular, glycerin and sorbin are used for this purpose used.

Of the active ingredient complex according to the invention (A) carries in the inventive compositions with help to preserve that in an excellent way with the mild preservative additives is possible. But also the complete one Dispensing with preservatives is possible and preferred according to the invention.

The Amounts of preservative are from 0 to 5 wt.%, Preferably from 0-2 % By weight, more preferably from 0 to 1% by weight, and most especially preferably from 0 to 0.8% by weight, based on the total amount of the composition.

A another group of very particularly preferred further ingredients cosmetic compositions containing the combination of active substances according to the invention (A) are perfumes. The outstanding and completely surprising positive results of compositions containing the active ingredient combination according to the invention (A) and perfumes, has been detailed before described.

With the term perfume are perfume oils, perfumes and fragrances meant. As perfume oils are called mixtures of natural and synthetic fragrances.

Natural fragrances are extracts of flowers (Lily, lavender, roses, jasmine, neroli, ylang-ylang), stems and leaves (Geranium, patchouli, petitgrain), fruits (aniseed, coriander, caraway, juniper), fruit peel (Bergamot, lemon, oranges), roots (macis, angelica, celery, Cardamom, Costus, Iris, Calmus), Woods (Pine, Sandal, Guajac, Cedar, rosewood), herbs and grasses (Tarragon, lemongrass, sage, thyme, chamomile), needles and twigs (Spruce, fir, pine, pines), resins and balsams (galbanum, Elemi, Benzoe, Myrrh, Olibanum, Opoponax).

Farther come from animal raw materials, such as civet and Castoreum.

typical synthetic fragrance compounds are products of the ester type, Ethers, aldehydes, ketones, alcohols and hydrocarbons. fragrance compounds the type of ester are z. Benzyl acetate, phenoxyethyl isobutyrate, p-tert-butylcyclohexyl acetate, linalyl acetate, dimethylbenzylcarbinyl acetate, Phenylethyl acetate, linalyl benzoate, benzyl formate, ethylmethylphenyl glycinate, Allylcyclohexylpropionate, styrallylpropionate, cyclohexylsalicylate, Floramat, Melusat, Jasmecyclat and Benzylsalicylat. To the Ethern counting for example, benzyl ethyl ether and ambroxan, to the aldehydes z. B. the linear alkanals of 8 to 18 carbon atoms, citral, Citronellal, citronellyloxyacetaldehyde, cyclamenaldehyde, hydroxycitronellal, Lilial and Bourgeonal, to the ketones z. As the Jonone, α-Isomethylionon and methyl cedryl ketone, to the alcohols anethole, citronellol, eugenol, Isoeugenol, geraniol, linalool, phenylethyl alcohol and terpineol, belong to the hydrocarbons mainly the terpenes and balms like limonene and pinene.

Prefers However, mixtures of different fragrances are used, the together create an appealing scent. Also essential oils lesser Volatility, which are mostly used as aroma components, are suitable as Perfume oils, e.g. B. Sage oil, Chamomile oil, Clove oil, Balm oil, Mint oil, Cinnamon leaf oil, lime blossom oil, juniper berry oil, vetiver oil, oliban oil, galbanum oil, labolanum oil and lavandin oil. Preferably be bergamot oil, Dihydromyrcenol, Lilial, Lyral, Citronellol, Phenylethylalcohol, α-Hexylcinnamaldehyde, Geraniol, benzylacetone, cyclamenaldehyde, linalool, Boisambrene Forte, Ambroxan, indole, hedione, sandelice, lemon oil, tangerine oil, orange blossom oil, orange peel oil, sandalwood oil, neroliol allylamylglycolate, Cyclovertal, lavandin oil, Muscat sage oil, β-damascone, geranium Bourbon, cyclohexyl salicylate, Vertofix Coeur, Iso-E-Super, fixolide NP, Evernyl, Iraldeine gamma, Phenylacetic acid, Geranyl acetate, Benzyl acetate, Rose oxide, romilllate, irotyl and floramate alone or in mixtures, used.

Further examples of fragrances which may be in the compositions according to the invention can be found z. In S. Arctander, Perfume and Flavor Materials, Vol. I and II, Montclair, NJ, 1969, Selbstverlag or K. Bauer, D. Garbe and H. Surburg, Common Fragrance and Flavor Materials, 3 ^rd . Ed., Wiley-VCH, Weinheim 1997.

Around To be perceptible, one must Perfume volatile being, besides the nature of the functional groups and the structure the molecular weight of the chemical compound also plays an important role plays. So most perfumes have molecular weights up to about 200 Dalton, while Molar masses of 300 daltons and above constitute an exception. Due to the different volatility changed by fragrances the smell of a compound of several fragrances perfumes or perfume during vaporizing, whereby the odor impressions in "top note", "middle note or body" as well as "base note" (end note or dry divided out). Because the smell perception to a large extent too on the smell intensity is based, the top note of a perfume or fragrance is not alone from volatile Connections while the base note for the most part from less volatile, d. H. adherent fragrances.

Tenacious Fragrances, in the context of the present invention advantageously can be used, for example, the essential oils such as angelica root oil, aniseed oil, arnica blossom oil, basil oil, bay oil, bergamot oil, Champacablütenöl, Edeltannöl, Edeltannenzapfenapfen, Elemiöl, eucalyptus oil, fennel oil, spruce alder oil, galbanum, geranium oil, ginger grass, guaiac wood, Gurjunbalsamöl, Helichrysumöl, Ho oil , Ginger oil, iris oil, cajeput oil, calamus oil, chamomile oil, camphor oil, kanaga oil, cardamom oil, cassia oil, pine oil, copaiba balsam, coriander oil, spearmint oil, caraway oil, cumin oil, lavender oil, lemongrass oil, lime oil, tangerine oil, lemon balm oil, musk kernel oil, myrrh oil, clove oil, neroli oil, niaouli oil , Olibanum Oil, Orange Oil, Origanum Oil, Palmarosa Oil, Patchouli Oil, Peru Balsam Oil, Petitgrain Oil, Pepper Oil, Peppermint Oil, Pimento Oil, Pine Oil, Rose Oil, Rosemary Oil, Sandalwood Oil, Celery Oil, Spik Oil, Star Aniseed Oil, Turpentine Oil, Thuja Oil, Thyme Oil, Verbena Oil, Vetiver Oil, Juniper Berry Oil, Vermouth Oil , Wintergreen oil , Ylang-ylang oil, hyssop oil, cinnamon oil, cinnamon leaf oil, lemon oil, lemon oil as well Cypress oil.

But also the higher-boiling ones or solid odoriferous natural or of synthetic origin in the context of the present invention advantageously as adherent Fragrances or fragrance mixtures, ie fragrances used become. These connections include the following compounds as well as mixtures of these: Ambrettolide, amyl cinnamaldehyde, anethole, anisaldehyde, anisalcohol, anisole, anthranilate, Acetophenone, benzylacetone, benzaldehyde, ethyl benzoate, benzophenone, Benzyl alcohol, benzyl acetate, benzyl benzoate, benzyl formate, benzyl valerate, Borneol, bornyl acetate, bromostyrene, n-decyl aldehyde, n-dodecyl aldehyde, Eugenol, eugenol methyl ether, eucalyptol, farnesol, fenchone, fenchyl acetate, Geranyl acetate, geranyl formate, heliotropin, heptincarboxylic acid methyl ester, Heptaldehyde, hydroquinone di-methyl ether, Hydroxycinnamaldehyde, Hydroxyzimtalcohol, Indole, Iron, Isoeugenol, Isoeugenol methyl ether, isosafrole, jasmon, camphor, Karvakrol, Karvon, p-Kresolmethylether, Coumarin, p-methoxyacetophenone, methyl n-amyl ketone, methyl anthranilate, p-methylacetophenone, methylchavikole, p-methylquinoline, methylnaphthylketone, Methyl n-nonyl acetaldehyde, methyl n-nonyl ketone, muscone, naphthol ethyl ether, Naphthol methyl ether, nerol, nitrobenzene, n-nonylaldehyde, nonyl alcohol, n-octylaldehyde, p-oxy-acetophenone, pentadecanolide, phenylethyl alcohol, Phenylacetaldehyde dimethyacetal, phenylacetic acid, pulegone, safrole, salicylic acid isoamyl ester, methyl salicylate, Salicylsäurehexylester, Salicylsäurecyclohexylester, Santalol, skatole, terpineol, thymen, thymol, -undelactone, vanilin, Veratrumaldehyde, cinnamaldehyde, cinnamyl alcohol, cinnamic acid, cinnamic acid ethyl ester, Zimtsäurebenzylester.

To the more volatile Fragrances that are advantageous in the context of the present invention can be used count especially the lower-boiling fragrances natural or synthetic origin, used alone or in mixtures can be. examples for more volatile Fragrances are alkyl isothiocyanates (alkyl mustard oils), butanedione, limonene, linalool, Linayl acetate and propionate, menthol, menthone, methyl-n-heptenone, Phellandrene, phenylacetaldehyde, terpinyl acetate, citral, citronellal.

All The above-mentioned fragrances are alone or in a mixture according to the present invention Invention can be used with the advantages already mentioned.

Lie the boiling points of the individual fragrances substantially below 300 ° C, such is a preferred embodiment the invention, wherein preferably at least 50% of the contained Fragrances have a boiling point below 300 ° C, advantageously at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, in even more advantageously at least 80%, in a very advantageous manner at least 90%, in particular even 100%.

boiling below 300 ° C are therefore advantageous because the fragrance in question at higher boiling points too low a volatility would have. But in order to be able to "flow out" of the particle at least partially and to develop fragrance, is a certain volatility the fragrances of advantage.

It was earlier observed that some, unstable perfume ingredients with carrier material sometimes not well compatible and after incorporation into the carrier at least partially decompose, especially if the carrier a porous mineral carrier is, such as clay, or zeolite, especially dehydrated and / or activated zeolite. Unstable fragrances in the sense of this Invention can thereby be identified that one a perfume composition, comprising at least 6 fragrances in activated / dehydrated Zeolite X incorporated and the resulting sample for 24 hours stored at room temperature. Then the perfumes are made with acetone extracted and analyzed by gas chromatography to determine the stability. A fragrance is then considered unstable in the sense of this invention, if at least 50% by weight, preferably at least 65% by weight, advantageously at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 95 wt .-% of this perfume decomposed into degradation products and in the extraction can not be provided again.

are in the agent according to the invention less than 15% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight, advantageously less than 6% by weight, more preferably less than 3% by weight unstable perfume contained, based on the total amount of perfume, which in / on the particle ad / absorbed, it is a preferred embodiment of the invention, being the unstable perfume in particular the group of allyl alcohol esters, esters of secondary alcohols Esters of tertiary Alcohols, allylic ketones, condensation products of amines and Aldehydes, acetates, ketals and mixtures of the foregoing.

If the perfume, which is adsorbed in / on the particle ad / at least 4, advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6, in still more advantageously at least 7, in even more advantageous Way at least 8, preferably at least 9, in particular at least Contains 10 different fragrances, so is a preferred embodiment of the invention.

If the logP value of the perfume components, which are ad / absorbed in / on the particle, essentially at least 2, preferably at least 3 or greater, so that at least 40%, advantageously at least 50%, in a further advantageous manner at least 60%, more preferably at least 70%, preferably at least 80%, especially 90% of the perfume components of this log requirement fulfill, such is a preferred embodiment of the invention.

Of the logP value is a measure of hydrophobicity the perfume components. It is the decadic logarithm of the distribution coefficient between n-octanol and water. The octanol / water partition coefficient a perfume ingredient is the relationship between its equilibrium concentrations in water and octanol. A perfume ingredient with higher Partition coefficient P is more hydrophobic. The mentioned Conditions for The logP are advantageous because it ensures will that the Fragrance better retained in the pores of the substrate can be and also better on objects that deal with the particles (for example indirectly by treatment with a detergent formulation, which particles of the invention contains) knock down. The logP value of many perfume ingredients is given in the literature; for example contains the Pomona 92 database, available from Daylight Chemical Information Systems, Inc. (Daylog CIS), Irvine, California, many such values along with references on the original literature. The logP values can also be calculated for example with the "CLOG P "program of just mentioned company Daylight CIS. For calculated logP values speaks you usually get ClogP values. Within the scope of this invention are the concept of logP values also includes the clog P values. Preferably should then clog P values are used for hydrophobicity estimation, if no experimental logP values for certain Perfume ingredients available.

If he wishes, can the perfume also with a perfume fixative be combined. It is assumed that perfume fixative the exhalation of the higher volatile Proportions of perfumes can slow down.

According to one another preferred embodiment includes the perfume, which in / on the carrier material from / adsorbed, a perfume fixative, preferably in the form of diethyl phthalates, musk (derivatives) and mixtures thereof, wherein the fixative preferably 1 to 55 wt .-%, advantageously 2 to 50 wt .-%, even more advantageous 10 to 45 wt .-%, in particular 20 to 40 wt .-% of the total amount of perfume.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the particles contain a viscosity of liquids Preferably, in particular perfume-increasing agent, preferably PEG (polyethylene glycol), advantageously having a molecular weight of 400 to 2000, wherein the viscosity-increasing agent in a preferred manner in amounts of 0.1 to 20 wt .-%, advantageously of 0.15 to 10 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner from 0.2 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.25 to 3 wt .-%, based on the particles.

It it turned out that the viscosity of liquids, especially of perfume raising funds another contribution to the stabilization of the perfume in the Provide particles if nonionic surfactant is present at the same time is.

The viscosity-increasing agents are preferably polyethylene glycols (PEG for short) which can be described by the general formula I: H- (O-CH 2 -CH 2) n -OH (I), in the degree of polymerization n of about 5 to> 100,000, corresponding to molecular weights of 200 to 5,000,000 gmol-1, may vary. The products with molecular weights below 25,000 g / mol are referred to as actual polyethylene glycols, while higher molecular weight products are often referred to in the literature as polyethylene oxides (PEOX for short). The polyethylene glycols preferably used may have a linear or branched structure, with particular preference being given to linear polyethylene glycols and end-capped.

To the particularly preferred polyethylene glycols include those with relative molecular masses between 400 and 2000. It can In particular, polyethylene glycols are used which an at room temperature and a pressure of 1 bar in the liquid state available; Here is mainly of polyethylene glycol with a relative Molecular mass from 200, 400 and 600 the speech.

The perfumes are generally in an amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably from 0.1 to 2.5 wt .-%, particularly preferably from 0.2 to 1.5 wt .-%, based on the Total composition, the total composition added.

The perfumes can in liquid Form, undiluted or with a solvent dilute for perfumes be added to the compositions. Suitable solvents therefor are z. Ethanol, isopropanol, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether, Glycerine, propylene glycol, 1,2-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethyl phthalate, Triethyl citrate, isopropyl myristate, etc.

Of others can the perfumes for the Compositions of the invention to a carrier be adsorbed for both a fine distribution of the fragrances in the product as well as for a controlled Release during use ensures. Such carriers can be porous inorganic Materials such as light sulphate, silica gels, zeolites, gypsum, clays, clay granules, Aerated concrete, etc. or organic materials such as wood and cellulose-based Be substances.

The Perfume oils for the compositions according to the invention can also micro-encapsulated, spray-dried, as inclusion complexes or as extrusion products and in this form the one to be perfumed Added compositions become.

Possibly can the properties of such modified perfume oils by so-called "coating" with suitable materials further optimized with a view to a more targeted fragrance release are, preferably waxy plastics such. B. polyvinyl alcohol be used.

Of the Consumers may like to perceive the cosmetic compositions, in particular caused by an aesthetically appealing packaging, optionally in combination with aromatic fragrances, the composition according to the invention with a stimulant such as Sweets or drinks get in touch. Through this association, in particular in children, an oral intake or a swallowing of the cosmetic composition in principle can not be excluded. In a preferred embodiment Therefore, the compositions of the invention contain a bitter substance, to prevent swallowing or accidental ingestion. In this case, according to the invention are bitter substances preferably, in water at 20 ° C to at least 5 g / l soluble are.

With regard to an undesirable interaction with optionally contained in the cosmetic compositions fragrance components, in particular a change of the consumer true The scent note has shown that the ionogenic bitter substances have proved superior to the non-ionic ones. Ionogenic bitter substances, preferably consisting of organic cation (s) and organic anion (s), are therefore preferred for the preparations according to the invention.

Quaternary ammonium compounds which contain an aromatic group both in the cation and in the anion are outstandingly suitable as bitter substances. Such a compound is the commercially z. B. under the trade name Bitrex ^® and Indige-stin ^® available Benzyldiethyl ((2,6-xylylcarbamoyl) methyl) ammonium benzoate. This compound is also known by the name Denatonium Benzoate.

Of the Bitter is in the moldings of the invention in amounts of 0.0005 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total composition. Particular preference is given to amounts of from 0.001 to 0.05% by weight.

In addition, can prove to be beneficial and the synergistic effects the active ingredient combination according to the invention (A) further increase if penetration aids and / or Swelling agent (M) are included. These substances can provide better penetration of active ingredients in the skin to be treated or the treatment to be treated Cause hair. These include, for example, urea and urea derivatives, Guanidine and its derivatives, arginine and its derivatives, water glass, Imidazole and its derivatives, histidine and its derivatives, benzyl alcohol, Glycerol, glycol and glycol ethers, propylene glycol and propylene glycol ethers, for example, propylene glycol monoethyl ether, carbonates, hydrogencarbonates, Diols and triols, and especially 1,2-diols and 1,3-diols such as 1,2-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, 1,2-dodecanediol, 1,3-propanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, 1,5-pentanediol, 1,4-butanediol.

When Dyes for staining of the compositions the for used for cosmetic purposes suitable and approved substances as described, for example, in the publication "Cosmetic Colorants" of the Dye Commission the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft, Verlag Chemie, Weinheim, 1984, S.81-106 are compiled. These dyes are usually in concentrations from 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, based on the total mixture used.

Of the pH of the preparations according to the invention can in principle be at values of 2-11. The pH is depending on the purpose and use of the composition of the invention selected specifically and set. For dye For example, it is preferably between 5 and 11, where values from 6 to 10 are particularly preferred. For cleansing compositions For example, it is between 4 and 7.5, preferably between 4 and 6.

to Setting this pH can be virtually any for cosmetic Purpose usable acid or Base can be used. Preferred bases are ammonia, alkali hydroxides, Monoethanolamine, triethanolamine and N, N, N ', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxypropyl) ethylenediamine.

Usually be called acids Consumed acids. Be under enjoyment of acids such acids understood that under the usual Food intake and positive effects to have the human organism. Acetic acids are, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, malic acid, ascorbic acid and Gluconic. In the context of the invention is the use of citric acid and lactic acid particularly preferred.

It was further found that the Effect of the active ingredient according to the invention in the inventive compositions in combination with substances containing primary or secondary amino groups contain, can be further increased. As examples of such Amino compounds may be mentioned ammonia, monoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, 2-amino-2-methylpropanediol and basic amino acids such as For example, lysine, arginine or histidine. Of course, these can Amines also in the form of the corresponding salts with inorganic and / or organic acids be used, such as ammonium carbonate, ammonium citrate, Ammonium oxalate, ammonium tartrate or lysine hydrochloride. The amines will be with the active ingredient according to the invention together in circumstances from 1:10 to 10: 1, preferably from 3: 1 to 1: 3, and most preferably in stoichiometric Amounts used.

Protic solvents, such as, for example, water, and alcohols can also be present in the compositions according to the invention. The alcohols used are all physiologically unsuitable alcohols, for example methanol, ethanol, isopropanol, propanol, butanol, isobutanol, glycol, glycerol and mixtures thereof with one another. The proportion of protic solvents in each case complements the Composition according to the invention per 100 parts by weight. At least 30% by weight of protic solvents, particularly preferably at least 50% by weight and very particularly preferably at least 75% by weight, and most preferably at least 85% by weight, protic solvents are preferably present in the cosmetic compositions.

Regarding further optional components as well as the amounts of these components used expressly on the specialist manuals known to those skilled in the art, eg. B. the above Monograph by K. H. Schrader referenced.

Next the invention mandatory Required active ingredient complex (A) and the other, mentioned above preferred components can these preparations in principle all others, the skilled person for such cosmetic agent known components.

• – Verdickungsmittel wie Agar-Agar, Guar-Gum, Alginate, Xanthan-Gum, Gummi arabicum, Karaya-Gummi, Johannisbrotkernmehl, Leinsamengummen, Dextrane, Cellulose-Derivate, z. B. Methylcellulose, Hydroxyalkylcellulose und Carboxymethylcellulose, Stärke-Fraktionen und Derivate wie Amylose, Amylopektin und Dextrine, Tone wie z. B. Bentonit oder vollsynthetische Hydrokolloide wie z. B. Polyvinylalkohol,
• – haarkonditionierende Verbindungen wie Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecitin und Kephaline,
• – Dimethylisosorbid und Cyclodextrine,
• – symmetrische und unsymmetrische, lineare und verzweigte Dialkylether mit insgesamt zwischen 12 bis 36 C-Atomen, insbesondere 12 bis 24 C-Atomen, wie beispielsweise Di-n-octylether, Di-n-decylether, Di-n-nonylether, Di-n-undecylether und Di-n-dodecylether, n-Hexyl-n-octylether, n-Octyl-n-decylether, n-Decyl-n-undecylether, n-Undecyl-n-dodecylether und n-Hexyl-n-Undecylether sowie Di-tert-butylether, Di-iso-pentylether, Di-3-ethyldecylether, tert.-Butyl-n-octylether, iso-Pentyl-n-octylether und 2-Methyl-pentyl-n-octylether,
• – faserstrukturverbessernde Wirkstoffe, insbesondere Mono-, Di- und Oligosaccharide, wie beispielsweise Glucose, Galactose, Fructose, Fruchtzucker und Lactose,
• – Phospholipide, beispielsweise Sojalecithin, Ei-Lecithin und Kephaline,
• – quaternierte Amine wie Methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium-methosulfat,
• – Antischuppenwirkstoffe wie Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine und Climbazol,
• – Wirkstoffe wie Allantoin und Bisabolol,
• – Cholesterin,
• – Komplexbildner wie EDTA, NTA, β-Alanindiessigsäure, Iminodibersnsteinsäure und derne Salze, Etidronic acid und deren Salze und Phosphonsäuren,
• – Quell- und Penetrationsstoffe wie primäre, sekundäre und tertiäre Phosphate,
• – Trübungsmittel wie Latex, Styrol/PVP- und Styrol/Acrylamid-Copolymere
• – Perlglanzmittel wie Ethylenglykolmono- und -distearat sowie PEG-3-distearat,
• – Pigmente,
• – Reduktionsmittel wie z. B. Thioglykolsäure und deren Derivate, Thiomilchsäure, Cysteamin, Thioäpfelsäure und α-Mercaptoethansulfonsäure,
• – Antioxidantien.

Other active ingredients, auxiliaries and additives are, for example

• Thickeners such as agar-agar, guar gum, alginates, xanthan gum, gum arabic, karaya gum, locust bean gum, linseed gums, dextrans, cellulose derivatives, e.g. For example, methylcellulose, hydroxyalkylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, starch fractions and derivatives such as amylose, amylopectin and dextrins, clays such. As bentonite or fully synthetic hydrocolloids such. For example, polyvinyl alcohol,
• Hair-conditioning compounds such as phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Dimethylisosorbide and cyclodextrins,
• - symmetrical and unsymmetrical, linear and branched dialkyl ethers having a total of from 12 to 36 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 24 carbon atoms, such as di-n-octyl ether, di-n-decyl ether, di-n-nonyl ether, di-n -undecyl ether and di-n-dodecyl ether, n-hexyl n-octyl ether, n-octyl n-decyl ether, n-decyl n-undecyl ether, n-undecyl n-dodecyl ether and n-hexyl n-undecyl ether and di tert-butyl ether, di-isopentyl ether, di-3-ethyldecyl ether, tert-butyl n-octyl ether, iso-pentyl n-octyl ether and 2-methyl pentyl n-octyl ether,
• Fiber-structure-improving active substances, in particular mono-, di- and oligosaccharides, such as, for example, glucose, galactose, fructose, fructose and lactose,
• Phospholipids, for example soya lecithin, egg lecithin and cephalins,
• Quaternized amines such as methyl-1-alkylamidoethyl-2-alkylimidazolinium methosulfate,
• Antidandruff active ingredients such as Piroctone Ölamine, Zink Omadine and Climbazole,
• - active substances such as allantoin and bisabolol,
• - cholesterol,
• Complexing agents such as EDTA, NTA, β-alaninediacetic acid, iminodisuccinic acid and salts thereof, Etidronic acid and its salts and phosphonic acids,
• - swelling and penetrating substances such as primary, secondary and tertiary phosphates,
• Opacifiers such as latex, styrene / PVP and styrene / acrylamide copolymers
• Pearlescing agents such as ethylene glycol mono- and distearate and PEG-3-distearate,
• - pigments,
• - Reducing agents such. B. thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, thiolactic acid, cysteamine, thiomalic acid and α-mercaptoethanesulfonic acid,
• - antioxidants.

in the The following will be further preferred embodiments of the present invention Invention described. One embodiment is the Compositions of the invention comprising formulating the active substance complex (A) as a shaped body. Hereinafter Therefore, this embodiment of the molded body will be described in detail.

to Application of the compositions according to the invention as aerosol sprays need Propellants are used. The propellant gases preferred according to the invention are selected from the hydrocarbons having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, such as propane, n-butane, iso-butane, n-pentane and iso-pentane, dimethyl ether, carbon dioxide, Nitrous oxide, fluorohydrocarbons and chlorofluorocarbons as well as mixtures of these substances. Very particularly preferred propellant gases are propane, butane, isobutane, pentane, isopentane, dimethyl ether and the mixtures of these aforementioned propellant gases each with each other. Most preferred according to the invention Propellant gases are the mixtures of dimethyl ether with hydrocarbons. Within the group of hydrocarbons as propellants are preferred are n-butane and propane.

Advantageously, the blowing agent is selected so that it can simultaneously serve as a solvent for other ingredients such as oil and wax components, the fatty substances (D). The propellant can then serve as a solvent for these latter components, if they are soluble at 20 ° C to at least 0.5 wt .-%, based on the blowing agent, in this.

According to one preferred embodiment contain the preparations according to the invention the said hydrocarbons or mixtures of said hydrocarbons with dimethyl ether as sole blowing agent. However, the invention includes expressly the concomitant use of chlorofluorocarbon blowing agent, but especially the fluorocarbons.

The Propellant gases are in quantities of 5-98 % By weight, preferably 10-98 % By weight, and more preferably 20-98% by weight, most preferably from 40 to 98% by weight, based in each case on the total aerosol composition, contain.

The Compositions of the invention can in commercial Be packed aerosol cans. The cans can be made of tinplate or be made of aluminum. Furthermore you can The cans can be coated inside to reduce the risk of corrosion low as possible to keep.

If the compositions of the invention as a non-aerosol spray application is applied, of course no propellant gas included. However, the spray heads in each case after the to select the appropriate spray rates.

The Cans are equipped with a suitable spray head. Depending on spray nozzle are output rates, based to full Cans, from 0.1 g / s to 5.0 g / s possible. The spray rate is determined so that one with propellant gas and the corresponding Composition filled and with the valve in question sealed aerosol can at room temperature (about 23 ° C) first is weighed. The can, including its contents 10 times strong Hand shaken, so that the content mixes well. Then, for 10 seconds, the valve becomes vertical standing can pressed. Thereafter, weigh again. The process is 5 times in a row carried out and the statistical mean of the results. The difference the two weighings is the spray rate per 10 s. Leave it Simply determine the spray rate per second by simply dividing. In the case of non-aerosol becomes the spray mechanism operated accordingly 10 times. Under the spray rate in the latter case, the average amount applied per spray (pump surge) to understand. Spraying data of 0.1 to 0.5 g / s are preferred. Spray rates from 0.1 to 0.4 g / s are particularly preferred.

Regarding the way in which the active substance complex according to the invention on the keratinic fiber, especially human hair, applied there are no fundamental restrictions.

When Formulation of these preparations are, for example, creams, Lotions, solutions, Waters, emulsions such as W / O, O / W, PIT emulsions (emulsions according to the teaching of phase inversion, Called PIT), microemulsions and multiple emulsions, gels, sprays, Aerosols and foam aerosols suitable.

On the hair remaining preparations have been found to be effective and can therefore preferred embodiments the teaching of the invention represent. Under remaining on the hair according to the invention are such preparations understood, not in the context of treatment after a period of time from a few seconds to an hour with the help of water or an aqueous solution again rinsed out of the hair become. Rather, the preparations remain until the next hair wash, d. H. usually more than 12 hours, on the hair.

According to one another preferred embodiment These formulations are formulated as a hair conditioner or hair conditioner. The preparations according to the invention according to this embodiment can after Expiration of this exposure time with water or at least predominantly rinsed with water-containing agent become; you can however, as stated above, to be left on the hair. It may be preferred, the inventive preparation before using a cleansing agent, a waving agent or to apply other hair treatment products to the hair. In this Trap is the preparation of the invention as structural protection for the following applications.

According to others preferred embodiments it may, however, for example, in the inventive compositions including cleansing products such as shampoos, nourishing products such as rinses, Firming agents such as hair fixative, mousse, styling gels and hair drier, permanent deformation agents such as perming and fixing agents as well as in particular in the context of a permanent wave process or dyeing process used pre-treatment or rinsing act.

In another particular embodiment the compositions of the invention These consist of at least one transparent to clear phase and at least one non-transparent, not clear phase.

Under Transparency in the sense of the invention becomes permeability the composition of the invention across from understood the visible light. For this the permeability the composition of the invention measured at a layer thickness of 1 cm. This one is in a usual Measure the measuring arrangement with visible light. From a permeability of at least 20% of the visible light is thereby of transparency within the meaning of the present invention. From a permeability at least 60% is spoken clearly within the meaning of the invention. A permeability of at least 40% is preferred according to the invention. A permeability of at least 60% is particularly preferred, a permeability for visible Light of at least 75% is most preferred. And a Permeability of at least 85% is highest prefers.

Further objects The present invention relates to the use of a preparation according to the invention for the cleansing of the skin and hair as well as the use of a preparation according to the invention for the restructuring of keratinic fibers, in particular human Hair.

One Another object of the present invention is a method for the treatment of skin or hair, in which a preparation according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or hair, the preparation is rinsed again after a contact time of 0 to 45 minutes.

alternative The preparation may also be applied to the skin and / or the hair and there to the next Skin or hair wash be left. Another object of the present invention is therefore a method of treating skin or hair in which a preparation according to the invention applied to the skin and / or hair and left there until the next wash becomes.

preferred Processes of the latter type are characterized in that the next wash longer than 24 hours after the application of the composition according to the invention to the skin and / or the hair is done.

Examples:

• ¹ Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO (INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
• ² Dimethyldistearylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
• ³ Mischung aus Esterquat und Fettalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

2. Haarspülung, Rinse-Off: C_16-18-Fettalkohol 5,00 Eumulgin^® B2¹ 0,03 Genamin^® DSAC20² 1,20 Trideceth-10 0,19 Trideceth-5 0,11 Dow Corning 200, 5 cSt 1,5 Dehyquart F 75³ 1,20 Amodimethicone 0,48 Glycerin 0,135 Pantholacton 0,5 Methylparaben 0,20 Parfüm 0,30 Phenoxyethanol 0,40 Isopropylmyristat 1,0 Wasser ad 100

• ¹ Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO (INCI-Bezeichnung: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
• ² Dimethyldistearylammoniumchlorid (INCI-Bezeichnung: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
• ³ Mischung aus Esterquat und Fettalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

3. Sprühkur, Rinse-Off: Cetyltrimethylammoniumbromid 1,00 Dow Corning 200, 20 cSt 0,60 Glycol 0,15 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C_12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Ethylhexylpalmitat 0,5 Cremophor^® CO-40¹ 0,60 Panthenol 0,50 Methylparaben 0,20 Parfüm 0,30 Phenoxyethanol 0,40 Wasser ad 100

• ¹ PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (COGNIS)

4. Sprühkur, Leave-On: Dehyquart F 75¹ 1,50 Amodimethicone 0,48 Glycerin 0,135 Trideceth-10 0,19 Trideceth-5 0,11 Cremophor^® CO-40¹ 0,80 Sonnenblumenöl 0,10 Dow Corning 2-1491 0,8 Niacinamid 0,10 Methylparaben 0,20 Parfüm 0,30 Phenoxyethanol 0,40 Laurinsäurehexylester 0,8 Wasser ad 100

• ¹ Mischung aus Esterquat und Fettalkohol (INCI-Bezeichnung Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosulfate (and) Cetearyl Alcohol) (COGNIS)

5. Haarkur, Rinse-Off: C_16-18-Fettalkohol 7,00 Eumulgin^® B2 0,03 Genamin^® DSAC20 1,20 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C_12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Dehyquart F 75 1,20 Amodimethicone 0,60 Dimethiconol 0,60 Glycol 0,15 Baysilone^® TP 3911 2,5 Panthenol 0,5 Tocopherylacetat 0,1 Methylparaben 0,20 Parfüm 0,30 Phenoxyethanol 0,40 2-Ethylhexylstearat 1,2 Wasser ad 100 All quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight. 1. Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C _16-18 fatty alcohol 7.00 Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.03 Genamin ^® DSAC20 ² 1.20 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C _12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Dow Corning 200, 1 cSt 1.00 Dehyquart F 75 ³ 1.20 amodimethicone 0.60 glycol 0.15 panthenol 0.5 tocopheryl acetate 0.1 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 isopropyl palmitate 0.7 water ad 100

• ¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
• ² Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
• ³ mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)

2. Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C _16-18 fatty alcohol 5.00 Eumulgin ^® B2 ¹ 0.03 Genamin ^® DSAC20 ² 1.20 Trideceth-10 0.19 Trideceth-5 0.11 Dow Corning 200, 5 cSt 1.5 Dehyquart F 75 ³ 1.20 amodimethicone 0.48 glycerin 0.135 Pantholacton 0.5 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 isopropyl 1.0 water ad 100

• ¹ cetylstearyl alcohol + 20 EO (INCI name: Ceteareth-20) (COGNIS)
• ² Dimethyldistearylammonium chloride (INCI name: Distearyldimonium Chloride) (CLARIANT)
• ³ mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name distearoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)

3. Spray cure, rinse-off: cetyltrimethylammonium 1.00 Dow Corning 200, 20 cSt 0.60 glycol 0.15 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C _12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 ethylhexyl palmitate 0.5 Cremophor ^® CO-40 ¹ 0.60 panthenol 0.50 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 water ad 100

• ¹ PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (COGNIS)

4. Spray cure, leave-on: Dehyquart F 75 ¹ 1.50 amodimethicone 0.48 glycerin 0.135 Trideceth-10 0.19 Trideceth-5 0.11 Cremophor ^® CO-40 ¹ 0.80 Sunflower oil 0.10 Dow Corning 2-1491 0.8 niacinamide 0.10 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 laurate 0.8 water ad 100

• ¹ mixture of esterquat and fatty alcohol (INCI name Distearoylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium Methosul fate (and) cetearyl alcohol) (COGNIS)

5. Hair Conditioner, Rinse-Off: C _16-18 fatty alcohol 7.00 Eumulgin ^® B2 0.03 Genamin ^® DSAC20 1.20 Laureth-4 0,075 Laureth-6 0,075 C _12-14 Sec-Pareth-9 0,075 PEG-8 0,075 Dehyquart F 75 1.20 amodimethicone 0.60 Dimethiconol 0.60 glycol 0.15 Baysilone® ^® TP 3911 2.5 panthenol 0.5 tocopheryl acetate 0.1 methylparaben 0.20 Perfume 0.30 phenoxyethanol 0.40 2-ethylhexyl 1.2 water ad 100

to Determination of subjective differences, all recipes were the same in each case once with the active ingredient complex according to the invention, respectively only one component of the active ingredient complex according to the invention against each other tested in half-page comparison. The evaluation was made by 10 people, all of them trained specialist personnel were.

• a) mindestens einer Polyammonium-Polysiloxan Verbindung und
• b) mindestens einem weiteren kosmetischen Inhaltsstoff, ausgewählt aus mindestens einer Verbindung der Gruppe der Polymere, der Naturstoffe sowie der naturanalogen Stoffe, der Fettstoffe oder der oberflächenaktiven Substanzen und/oder deren Mischungen.

nicht enthalten, durchweg wesentlich besser beurteilt. Die erfindungsgemäßen Produkte werden bei Vergleichstests gegenüber Produkten, die nur die Komponente a) des erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkomplexes enthalten durchweg besser beurteilt. Gegenüber Produkten, die nur die Komponente b) des erfindungsgemäßen Wirkstoffkomplexes enthalten, werden deutliche Leistungsvorteile beobachtet.The products according to the invention were compared with the products containing the active ingredient complex according to the invention in these comparative tests

• a) at least one polyammonium-polysiloxane compound and
• b) at least one further cosmetic ingredient selected from at least one compound of the group of polymers, the natural substances and the nature-analogous substances, the fatty substances or the surface-active substances and / or mixtures thereof.

not included, consistently rated much better. The products according to the invention are consistently better evaluated in comparison tests with products which contain only component a) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention. Compared to products containing only component b) of the active ingredient complex according to the invention, significant performance advantages are observed.

Further examples:

All Quantities are, unless otherwise stated, parts by weight.

6. Sprayable hair conditioner, leave-on

7. Leave-on hair cure

8. Leave-on hair cure

Claims (7)

Cosmetic agent containing a combination of active ingredients out a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and b) at least one ester oil which from a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol is built up. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized in that further comprises an ingredient c) selected from at least one of the groups of polymers, natural products or natural analogues, fatty substances and surface-active compounds. Use of a drug combination containing a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity of 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and b) at least one ester oil which from a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol is built up, to increase the Effect of UV protection filters on hair. Method of treating skin or hair, at to a preparation of the invention containing a) at least one polysiloxane compound having a viscosity from 0.1 cSt to 5000 cSt and b) at least one ester oil which from a C6 to C30 fatty acid and a C2 to C30 alcohol on the skin and / or the hair applied and there until the next Laundry is left. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized the polysiloxane compound a) is selected from the dimethicones and the dimethiconols. Cosmetic composition according to claim 1, characterized that the ester oil selected is from the ester oils, which consists of an alcohol with a number of C atoms from 2 to 16 and a fatty acid with a number of carbon atoms are built from 6 to 18. Cosmetic compositions according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that further comprises at least one UV filter is included.