DE102005035864A1 - Use of xanthohumol or isoxanthohumol to prepare cosmetic or dermatological compositions for treating or preventing symptoms of skin aging and the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin - Google Patents

Abstract

Use of xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol for the production of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for the treatment and prophylaxis of the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

Description

The The present invention relates to cosmetic or dermatological Preparations containing xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol Care and protection of the skin, especially the sensitive skin as well as in the foreground standing by the intrinsic and / or extrinsic factors, aged or aging skin as well the use of such agents and combinations of such agents in the field of cosmetic and dermatological skin care.

Under Cosmetic skin care is first and foremost to understand that natural function the skin as a barrier against environmental influences (for example dirt, chemicals, Microorganisms) and against the loss of endogenous substances (e.g. natural Fats, electrolytes) or restored.

Becomes this function disturbed, it can be overpowered Absorption of toxic or allergenic substances or infestation of Microorganisms and as a result to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

at old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, in particular, the water-binding capacity of the horny layer decreases. she becomes therefore inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the consequence. The skin becomes vulnerable for negative environmental influences like the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. When It can even lead to toxic or allergic skin reactions come.

at Pathologically dry and sensitive skin is a barrier damage a priori. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or in insufficient Quantity or composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss hygroscopic substances and water.

The Barrier effect of the skin can over the determination of transepidermal water loss (TEWL - transepidermal water loss). This is the evaporation of water from inside the body without the inclusion of water loss during sweating. The determination the TEWL value has turned out to be extraordinary has proved informative and may be more chapped or crippled for diagnosis Skin, to determine the tolerability chemically diversified surfactants and the like be used.

• a) Trockenheit, Rauhigkeit und Ausbildung von Trockenheitsfältchen,
• b) Juckreiz und
• c) verminderte Rückfettung durch Talgdrüsen (z.B. nach Waschen).

The chronological skin aging is caused eg by endogenous, genetically determined factors. In the epidermis and dermis, aging causes, for example, the following structural damage and dysfunctions, which may also fall under the term "senile xerosis":

• a) dryness, roughness and formation of dryness wrinkles,
• b) itching and
• c) diminished fatty tissue suppression through sebaceous glands (eg after washing).

• d) Sichtbare Gefäßerweiterungen (Teleangiektasien, Cuperosis);
• e) Schlaffheit und Ausbildung von Falten;
• f) lokale Hyper-, Hypo- und Fehlpigmentierungen (z.B. Altersflecken) und
• g) vergrößerte Anfälligkeit gegenüber mechanischem Stress (z.B. Rissigkeit).

Exogenous factors, such as UV light and chemical noxae, can be cumulatively effective and, for example, accelerate or supplement endogenous aging processes. In the epidermis and dermis, the following structural and functional disorders in the skin occur, in particular due to exogenous factors, which go beyond the extent and quality of the damage caused by chronological aging:

• d) Visible vascular dilations (telangiectasias, cuperosis);
• e) slackness and formation of wrinkles;
• f) local hyper-, hypo- and false pigmentation (eg age spots) and
• g) increased susceptibility to mechanical stress (eg cracking).

The The present invention particularly relates to care products the natural one Way of aging skin, as well as to treat the sequelae of Photoaging, in particular the phenomena listed under a) to g).

Products For the care of aged skin are known. They contain e.g. Retinoids (vitamin A acid and / or their derivatives) or vitamin A and / or its derivatives. Their effect on the structural damage is but limited in scope. Daüber There are also significant difficulties in product development, the active ingredients sufficiently against oxidative decay to stabilize. The use of vitamin A acid-containing products conditioned about that In addition, often strong erythematous Skin irritation. Retinoids are therefore only in low concentrations used.

Especially The present invention relates to cosmetic preparations with effective protection against harmful Oxidation processes in the skin, but also to protect cosmetic Preparations themselves or to protect the ingredients of cosmetic Preparations against harmful Oxidation processes.

The The present invention further relates to antioxidants, preferably those which are used in skin care cosmetic or dermatological Preparations are used. In particular, the invention also relates cosmetic and dermatological preparations, such antioxidants containing. In a preferred embodiment, the present invention relates Invention cosmetic and dermatological preparations for prophylaxis and treatment of cosmetic or dermatological lesions such as. Skin aging, especially that caused by oxidative processes caused skin aging.

Farther the present invention relates to active substances and preparations, containing such active ingredients, for cosmetic and dermatological Treatment or prophylaxis erythematous, inflammatory, allergic or autoimmune reactive phenomena, especially dermatoses.

The The present invention relates in a further advantageous embodiment Active substance combinations and preparations for prophylaxis and Treatment of photosensitive skin, especially photodermatoses, serve.

The damaging Effect of the ultraviolet part of solar radiation on the skin is common knowledge. While Beams with one wavelength, which is less than 290 nm (the so-called UVC range), from the Ozone layer in the earth's atmosphere be absorbed, causing rays in the range between 290 nm and 320 nm, the so-called UVB range, an erythema, a simple Sunburn or even more or less severe burns.

When a maximum of the erythema efficiency of sunlight becomes the tighter Range indicated around 308 nm.

To the Protection against UVB radiation, numerous compounds are known which are derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, 4-aminobenzoic acid, the cinnamic acid, salicylic acid, benzophenone and 2-phenylbenzimidazole.

Also for the Range between about 320 nm and about 400 nm, the so-called UVA range, it is important Filter substances available to have since its rays cause reactions in photosensitive skin can. It has been proven that UVA radiation to injury the elastic and collagen fibers of the connective tissue performs what the skin ages prematurely, and that she as the cause of numerous phototoxic and photoallergic reactions you can see. The injurious Influence of UVB radiation can be amplified by UVA radiation.

To the Protection against the rays of the UVA range therefore become certain Derivatives of dibenzoylmethane used whose photostability (Int. J. Cosm. Science 10, 53 (1988)), is not given sufficiently is.

The UV radiation can also lead to photochemical reactions, wherein then the photochemical reaction products in the skin metabolism intervention.

mainly are such photochemical reaction products to radical compounds, for example hydroxyl radicals, singlet oxygen. Also undefined radical photoproducts, which are in the skin can arise yourself because of their high reactivity uncontrolled follow-up reactions to the day. But also singlet oxygen, a non-radical excited state of the oxygen molecule can with UV irradiation occur, as are short-lived epoxides and many others. singlet in example is distinguished from the normally present Triplet oxygen (radical ground state) by increased Reactivity out. However, there are also excited, reactive (radical) triplet states of the oxygen molecule.

Further counts UV radiation to ionizing radiation. So there is a risk that even ionic species at UV exposure, which in turn oxidative in to be able to intervene in the biochemical processes.

To prevent these reactions, cosmetic or dermatological formulations may be used additional antioxidants and / or radical scavengers are incorporated.

It has already been suggested vitamin E, a substance with known to use antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations, Nevertheless, the achieved effect remains far behind the hoped for back.

task The invention was therefore also cosmetic, dermatological and pharmaceutical active ingredients and preparations as well as sunscreen formulations to provide for the prophylaxis and treatment of photosensitive Skin, especially photodermatoses, preferably PLD serve.

Further Designations for the polymorphic light dermatosis are PLD, PLE, Mallorca acne and a variety of other designations as described in the literature (e.g., A. Voelckel et al, Zentralblatt Skin and venereal diseases (1989), 156, P.2).

Mainly Antioxidants as protective substances against the spoilage of preparations containing them used. Nevertheless, it is known that also in the human and animal skin unwanted Oxidation processes can occur. Such processes play an essential role in skin aging.

in the Essay "Skin Diseases Associated with Oxidative Injury "in" Oxidative Stress in Dermatology ", P. 323 ff. (Marcel Decker Inc., New York, Basel, Hong Kong, publisher: Jürgen Fuchs, Frankfurt, and Lester Packer, Berkeley, California) oxidative damage the skin and its closer Causes listed.

Also For the reason, to prevent such reactions can be cosmetic or dermatological formulations additionally antioxidants and / or radical scavengers be incorporated.

Though Some antioxidants and radical scavengers are known. That's already in US Pat. Nos. 4,144,325 and 4,248,861, as well as numerous others other documents have been proposed, vitamin E, a substance with known antioxidant activity in sunscreen formulations nevertheless, the effect achieved here remains wide behind the hoped-for back.

task The present invention thus seeks to find ways that the Avoid disadvantages of the prior art. In particular, should Effect of remedying the endogenous, chronological and exogenous Skin aging related damage and the prophylaxis lasting, sustainable and without the risk of Be side effects.

According to the invention the evils of the Prior art eliminated by the use of xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological Preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and treatment and prophylaxis of harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin.

• – besser die Barriereeigenschaften der Haut erhalten oder wiederherstellen,
• – besser der Hautaustrocknung entgegenwirken,
• – besser gegen Pigmentstörungen wirken,
• – besser gegen die Hautalterung wirken und
• – die Haut besser vor Umwelteinflüssen schützen als die Zubereitungen des Standes der Technik.

Cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention, containing xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol, are extremely satisfactory preparations in every respect. It was not foreseeable for the skilled person that the preparations according to the invention

• - better maintain or restore the barrier properties of the skin,
• - better counteract skin dehydration,
• - better against pigment disorders,
• - Act better against aging skin and
• - Protect the skin better from environmental influences than the preparations of the prior art.

• – von defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen oder defizitären, sensitiven oder hypoaktiven Zustände von Hautanhangsgebilden
• – von Erscheinungen vorzeitiger Alterung der Haut (z.B. Falten, Altersflecken, Teleangiektasien) und/oder der Hautanhangsgebilde,
• – von umweltbedingten (Rauchen, Smog, reaktive Sauerstoffspecies, freie Radikale) und insbesondere lichtbedingten negativen Veränderungen der Haut und der Hautanhangsgebilde.
• – von lichtbedingten Hautschäden
• – von Pigmentierungsstörungen,
• – von Juckreiz,
• – von trockenen Hautzuständen und Hornschichtbarrierestörungen,
• – von Haarausfall und für verbessertes Haarwachstum
• – von entzündlichen Hautzuständen sowie atopischem Ekzem, seborrhoischem Ekzem, polymorpher Lichtdermatose, Psoriasis, Vitiligo möglich. Der erfindungsgemäße Wirkstoffes bzw. kosmetischer oder topischer dermatologischer Zubereitungen mit einem wirksamen Gehalt an erfindungsgemäßem Wirkstoff dient aber auch in überraschender Weise
• – zur Beruhigung von empfindlicher oder gereizter Haut
• – zur Stimulation der Kollagen-, Hyaluronsäure-, Elastinsynthese
• – zur Stimulation der Ceramidsynthese der Haut
• – zur Stimulation der intrazellulären DNA-Synthese, insbesondere bei defizitären oder hypoaktiven Hautzuständen.
• – zur Steigerung der Zellerneuerung und Regeneration der Haut
• – zur Steigerung der hauteigenen Schutz- und Reparaturmechanismen (beispielsweise für dysfunktionelle Enzyme, DNA, Lipide, Proteine)
• – zur Vor- und Nachbehandlung bei topischer Anwendung von Laser- und Abschleifbehandlungen, die z. B. der Reduzierung von Hautfalten und Narben dienen, um den resultierenden Hautreizungen entgegenzuwirken und die Regenerationsprozesse in der verletzten Haut zu fördern.

When applying the active ingredient combinations used according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of active compound combinations used according to the invention is in a surprising manner an effective treatment me, but also a prophylaxis

• - of deficient, sensitive or hypoactive skin conditions or deficient, sensitive or hypoactive states of skin appendages
• - signs of premature aging of the skin (eg wrinkles, age spots, telangiectasias) and / or skin appendages,
• - of environmental factors (smoking, smog, reactive oxygen species, free radicals) and in particular light-induced negative changes in the skin and the appendages.
• - of light-induced skin damage
• - pigmentation disorders,
• - from itching,
• Dry skin conditions and corneal barrier disorders,
• - from hair loss and for improved hair growth
• - of inflammatory skin conditions as well as atopic eczema, seborrheic eczema, polymorphic photodermatosis, psoriasis, vitiligo possible. The active ingredient according to the invention or cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of the active ingredient according to the invention, however, also serves in a surprising manner
• - to soothe sensitive or irritated skin
• - To stimulate collagen, hyaluronic acid, elastin synthesis
• - to stimulate the ceramide synthesis of the skin
• - To stimulate intracellular DNA synthesis, especially in deficient or hypoactive skin conditions.
• - to increase the cell renewal and regeneration of the skin
• - to increase the skin's own protective and repair mechanisms (eg for dysfunctional enzymes, DNA, lipids, proteins)
• - For pre- and post-treatment in topical application of laser and Abschleifbehandlungen z. As the reduction of skin wrinkles and scars serve to counteract the resulting skin irritation and promote the regeneration processes in the injured skin.

The in the lupulin glands the hops cones occurring xanthohumol is yellowish in the pure state and is under the influence of temperature, e.g. during the brewing process and rearranged to isoxanthohumol in the alkaline environment. In hop cones 0.2 to 1.0% by weight of xanthohumol has been detected.

In commercial Beers could be detected up to 0.7 mg / l xanthohumol. Modifications in the brewing process by using special hop products and yeast strains, late addition of the hop while brewing and rapid cooling the wort enable Meanwhile, in compliance with the German Purity Law, the Xanthohumol content depending on beer type to several mg per liter too increase.

xanthohumol is characterized by the structural formula

isoxanthohumol is characterized by the structural formula

Prefers contain cosmetic or dermatological preparations according to the invention 0.001 - 10 Wt .-%, particularly preferably 0.01-1 wt .-%, of xanthohumol and / or Isoxanthohumol, based on the total composition of the preparations.

The Preparations according to the invention contain beneficial substances that UV radiation in the UV-A and / or Absorb UV-B range, the total amount of Filterubstan zen z. 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 20% by weight, especially 1.0 to 15.0 wt .-%, based on the total weight preparations to make cosmetic preparations available put the hair or the skin in front of the entire area of the Protect ultraviolet radiation. You can also as a sunscreen for Hair or the skin serve.

• • 3-Benzylidencampher-Derivate, vorzugsweise 3-(4-Methylbenzyliden)campher, 3-Benzylidencampher;
• • 4-Aminobenzoesäure-Derivate, vorzugsweise 4-(Dimethylamino)-benzoesäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-(Dimethylamino)benzoesäureamylester;
• • 2,4,6-Trianilino-(p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy)-1,3,5-triazin;
• • Ester der Benzalmalonsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxybenzalmalonsäuredi(2-ethylhexyl)ester;
• • Ester der Zimtsäure, vorzugsweise 4-Methoxyzimtsäure(2-ethylhexyl)ester, 4-Methoxyzimtsäureisopentylester;
• • Derivate des Benzophenons, vorzugsweise 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon, 2-Hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenon, 2,2'-Dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenon
• • sowie an Polymere gebundene UV-Filter.

The UV-B filters may be oil-soluble or water-soluble. Advantageous oil-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:

• 3-benzylidene camphor derivatives, preferably 3- (4-methylbenzylidene) camphor, 3-benzylidene camphor;
• 4-aminobenzoic acid derivatives, preferably 2-ethylhexyl 4- (dimethylamino) benzoate, 4- (dimethylamino) benzoic acid amyl ester;
• 2,4,6-trianilino (p-carbo-2'-ethyl-1'-hexyloxy) -1,3,5-triazine;
• Esters of benzalmalonic acid, preferably di-2-ethylhexyl 4-methoxybenzalmalonate;
• Esters of cinnamic acid, preferably 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, 4-methoxycinnamic acid isopentyl ester;
• Derivatives of benzophenone, preferably 2-hydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-4'-methylbenzophenone, 2,2'-dihydroxy-4-methoxybenzophenone
• • as well as UV-bound polymers.

• • Salze der 2-Phenylbenzimidazol-5-sulfonsäure, wie ihr Natrium-, Kalium- oder ihr Triethanolammonium-Salz, sowie die Sulfonsäure selbst;
• • Sulfonsäure-Derivate des 3-Benzylidencamphers, wie z. B. 4-(2-Oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)benzolsulfonsäure, 2-Methyl-5-(2-oxo-3-bornylidenmethyl)sulfonsäure und deren Salze.

Advantageous water-soluble UV-B filter substances are z. B .:

• Salts of 2-phenylbenzimidazole-5-sulphonic acid, such as its sodium, potassium or its triethanolammonium salt, and the sulphonic acid itself;
• Sulfonic acid derivatives of 3-Benzylidencamphers, such as. B. 4- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) benzenesulfonic acid, 2-methyl-5- (2-oxo-3-bomylidenemethyl) sulfonic acid and salts thereof.

The List of said UV filters, for the purposes of the present invention can be used Of course not limiting.

According to the invention advantageous can Preparations containing the active compound combinations according to the invention included, usual Antioxidants are used.

Advantageously, the antioxidants are selected from the group consisting of amino acids (eg glycine, histidine, tyrosine, tryptophan) and their derivatives, imidazoles (eg urocanic acid) and their derivatives, peptides such as D, L-carnosine, D-carnosine, L-carnosine and their derivatives (eg anserine), carotenoids, carotenes (eg α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, aurothioglucose, propylthiouracil and other thiols (eg thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, Acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleyl, cholesteryl and glyceryl esters) and their salts, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and derivatives thereof ( Esters, ethers, peptides, lipids, nucleotides, nucleosides and salts) as well as sulfoximine compounds (eg buthionine sulfoximines, homocysteinsulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta, hexa, heptathionine sulfoximine) in very low tolerated dosages (eg pmol to μmol / kg), f Nuclear (metal) chelators (eg α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (eg citric acid, lactic acid, malic acid), humic acid, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, EDTA, EGTA and their derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives (for example γ-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid), folic acid and derivatives thereof, alaninediacetic acid, Flavonoids, polyphenols, catechins, vitamin C and derivatives (eg ascorbyl palmitate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl acetate), tocopherols and derivatives (eg vitamin E acetate), as well as coniferyl benzoate of benzoin, rutinic acid and its derivatives, ferulic acid and its derivatives, butylhydroxytoluene, Butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiacetic acid, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (eg ZnO, ZnSO ₄ ) selenium and its derivatives (eg selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives (eg stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide) and the inventively suitable derivatives (salts, esters, ethers, sugars, nucleotides, nucleosides, peptides and lipids) of these active substances.

The Amount of antioxidants (one or more compounds) in the Preparations is preferably from 0.001 to 30% by weight, particularly preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, especially 1-10 Wt .-%, based on the total weight of the preparation.

The Prophylaxis or the cosmetic or dermatological treatment with the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with an effective content of xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol takes place in the usual Manner, in such a way that the cosmetic or topical dermatological preparations with a Effect of Xanthohumol and / or Isoxanthohumol on the is applied to affected skin areas.

Advantageous Xanthohumol and / or Isoxanthohumol can be incorporated into conventional cosmetic and dermatological preparations which are in various forms can. So can they e.g. a solution, an emulsion of the water-in-oil type (W / O) or oil-in-water type (O / W), or a multiple emulsions, for example of the water-in-oil-in-water type (W / O / W) or oil-in-water-in-oil (O / W / O), a hydrodispersion or lipodispersion, a gel, a solid Pen or even an aerosol pose.

Inventive emulsions in the sense of the present invention, e.g. in the form of a cream, a lotion, of a cosmetic milk are advantageous and contain e.g. Fats, oils, waxes and / or other fatty bodies, and water and one or more emulsifiers, as is customary for one such type of formulation can be used.

It is possible, too and advantageous for the purposes of the present invention, the invention used Active substance in aqueous systems or to add surfactant preparations for cleansing the skin and hair.

It is natural to the expert known to be demanding Cosmetic compositions usually not without the usual Auxiliaries and additives are conceivable. The cosmetic according to the invention Preparations can therefore contain cosmetic adjuvants, as they usually do used in such preparations, e.g. Preservatives, Bactericides, deodorants, antiperspirants, Insect repellents, vitamins, antifoaming agents, dyes, Pigments with coloring Effect, thickener, softening substances, moisturizing and / or moisturizing substances, fats, oils, waxes or other common ingredients a cosmetic formulation such as alcohols, polyols, polymers, Foam stabilizers, electrolytes, organic solvents or silicone derivatives.

mutatis Mutandis are subject to appropriate formulation requirements medical preparations.

medical Topical compositions according to the present invention contained in usually one or more drugs in effective concentration. For the sake of simplicity, a clear distinction is made between cosmetic and medical use and corresponding products to the statutory provisions of the Federal Republic of Germany (eg Cosmetics Regulation, Food and Drug Act).

The oil phase of the emulsions of the present invention is advantageously selected from the group of esters of saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms, from the group of esters of aromatic carboxylic acids and saturated and / or unsaturated, branched and / or unbranched alcohols having a chain length of 3 to 30 carbon atoms. Such ester oils may then be advantageously selected from the group isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, isopropyl oleate, n-butyl stearate, n-hexyl laurate, n-decyl oleate, isooctyl stearate, isononyl stearate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl laurate, 2-hexyl decyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl palmitate, oleyl oleate, oleyl erucate, erucyl oleate, erucyl erucate and synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural mixtures of such esters, eg jojoba oil.

Further can the oil phase chosen favorably are from the group of branched and unbranched hydrocarbons and waxes, the silicone oils, the dialkyl ether, the group of saturated or unsaturated, branched or unbranched alcohols, as well as the fatty acid triglycerides, namely the triglycerol esters of saturated and / or unsaturated branched and / or unbranched alkanecarboxylic acids of a chain length of 8 to 24, especially 12-18 C-atoms. The fatty acid triglycerides can for example, advantageously chosen are selected from the group of synthetic, semi-synthetic and natural oils, e.g. Olive oil, sunflower oil, soybean oil, peanut oil, rapeseed oil, almond oil, palm oil, coconut oil, palm kernel oil and the like more.

Also any mixtures of such oil and wax components are advantageous in the sense of the present Use invention. It may also be advantageous if Waxes, for example cetyl palmitate, as the sole lipid component the oil phase use.

Inventive as emulsions Present compositions particularly advantageously comprise an or several hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can be chosen favorably from the group of gums, polysaccharides, cellulose derivatives, phyllosilicates, Polyacrylates and / or other polymers.

According to the invention as hydrogels present preparations contain one or more hydrocolloids. These hydrocolloids can advantageously be selected from the aforementioned group.

Claims (2)

Use of xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol for the preparation of cosmetic or dermatological preparations for the treatment and / or prophylaxis of the symptoms of intrinsic and / or extrinsic skin aging and for treatment and prophylaxis the harmful Effects of ultraviolet radiation on the skin. Use according to claim 1, characterized that she 0.001-10 Wt .-% of xanthohumol and / or isoxanthohumol, based on the total weight of the preparations.