DE102005022626A1 - Cosmetic agent for treating stressed skin comprises an oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing taurine and a long-chain linear primary fatty or wax alcohol - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of oil-in-water (O/W) emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol with an alkyl chain-length of 20-40C, is new. ACTIVITY : Dermatological; Antiinflammatory. No biological data is given. MECHANISM OF ACTION : None given in the specification.

Description

The Skin is the largest organ of the human. Among its many functions (for example, the heat control and as sensory organ) is the barrier function, the one that the Drying of the skin (and ultimately of the entire organism) prevents, probably the most important. At the same time the skin acts as Protective device against penetration and reception from outside Substances. This barrier function is caused by the epidermis, which as the outermost layer the actual protective cover across from of the environment. It is about one tenth of the total thickness at the same time the thinnest Layer of the skin.

The Epidermis is a stratified tissue in which the outer layer, the horny layer (stratum corneum), which is important for the barrier function Part represents.

she gets worn out in contact with the environment and is therefore located in a permanent Renewal process, with outward continuously fine scales released and reproduced from the inside keratinized cell and lipid material becomes.

The Skin model of Elias (P. M. Elias, Structure and Function of the Stratum Corneum Permeability Barrier, Drug Dev. Res. 13, 1988, 97-105) describes the horny layer as a two-component system, similar to one Brick Wall (Brick Mortar Model). In this model, the horny cells (corneocytes) correspond to the bricks, corresponds to the complex composite lipid membrane in the intercellular spaces the mortar. This system essentially provides a physical barrier against hydrophilic substances, but due to its narrow and multilayer structure alike of lipophilic substances just hard to be passed. The special structure of the horny layer protects on the one hand the skin and on the other hand it stabilizes its own flexibility Binding of a defined amount of water.

Also mechanical loads, such as pressure, shock or Shear forces, can in amazing measure through the horny layer alone or in combination with the deeper skin layers be intercepted. Larger print, Turning or shearing forces be over the interlocking of the epidermis with the corium to deeper skin layers passed. The regulation of water and moisture content is one of the most important functions of the epidermal lipid membrane. However, it not only has a barrier against external but also contributes to chemical and physical influences to the cohesion of the horny layer at.

The Lipids of the horny layer consist essentially of ceramides, free fatty acids, Cholesterol as well as cholesterol sulfate and are over the entire horny layer distributed. The composition of these lipids is for the intact Function of the epidermal barrier and thus for impermeability to water the skin of vital importance.

Already when cleaning the skin with the help of a simple water bath - without addition of surfactants - comes it first to a swelling of the horny layer of the skin. The degree of this swelling depends u. a. from the duration of the bath and its temperature. simultaneously become water-soluble Cloths washed or washed out, such as. B. water-soluble soil constituents, but also the skin's own substances, which are responsible for the water-binding capacity of the Horn layer are responsible. By the skin's own surface-active Fabrics will also Skin fats also dissolved and washed out to a certain extent. This conditionally after initial swelling a subsequent dehydration of the skin, by washing-active additives still be significantly strengthened can.

In healthy skin, these processes are generally irrelevant, as the protective mechanisms of the skin can readily compensate for such minor disorders of the upper layers of the skin. But even in the case of non-pathological deviations from the normal status, eg. B. by environmental wear damage or irritation, photodamage, aging skin, etc., the protective mechanism is disturbed on the skin surface. In the case of old skin, for example, the regenerative renewal slows down, whereby in particular the water-binding capacity of the horny layer subsides. It therefore becomes inflexible, dry and cracked ("physiologically" dry skin). A barrier damage is the result. The skin becomes susceptible to negative environmental influences such as the invasion of microorganisms, toxins and allergens. As a result, even toxic or allergic skin reactions may occur. Dry skin has a lack of barrier lipids (ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids) in the horny layer. The reduced integrity and repair performance of the skin barrier leads to an increased transepidermal water loss. The skin becomes rough, dry, flaky and prone to tense as well as itching.

at pathologically dry and sensitive skin or atopic Dermatitis of affected skin is a priori barrier damage. Epidermal intercellular lipids become defective or in insufficient quantity or composition formed. The consequence is an increased permeability the horny layer and insufficient protection of the skin from loss on hygroscopic substances and water.

in the State of the art various skin care products are known in are able to improve the epidermal barrier function. These Skin care products, however, are usually occlusive in nature, e.g. As Vaseline and Vaseline-containing creams, and are common sticky skin feeling and / or uncomfortable wearing comfort. The ointment or cream represents, as it were, a (second) artificial one Barrier that is supposed to prevent the loss of water from the skin. Corresponding This physical barrier - for example, with cleaning agents - can easily again be removed, causing the original, impaired State is reached again. In addition, the skin care effect with regular treatment ease up. After stopping the product application, the skin returns very quickly back to the state before treatment. A Sustainable product effect is usually not or only achieved to a limited extent. To the skin at its natural Support regeneration and to strengthen their physiological function become the topical preparations More recently, intercellular lipid mixtures such as ceramides have become increasingly common or ceramide analogues, added by the skin to rebuild the natural one Barrier should be used. However, it is These lipids are mostly very expensive raw materials, which also due to their high melting point are difficult to formulate. moreover Their effect is limited because the topically applied lipids only to a small extent in the barrier-relevant lipid membranes in the middle Stratum corneum penetrate and only to a small extent in this Structures are integrated.

the The prior art therefore lacks preparations which have the barrier function and positively influence the hydration of the horny layer and the physico-chemical properties of the horny layer and in particular strengthen or even restore lamellae from intercellular lipids.

Recent investigations have shown that under dry conditions the organic osmolyte taurine in the outer granule keratinocyte layer accumulated (J. Invest Dermatol., 121, 354-361 (2003)). Was continued shown to be in dry conditions or under UV irradiation Mechanisms of barrier repair are stimulated (J. Invest. Dermatol. 111, 858-863 (1998) J. Invest. Dermatol. 109, 783-787 (1997), J. Lipid Res. 32, 1151-1158 (1991)).

in the Under the present invention, the question was, to what extent these two different epidermal reactions to environmental influences in association with. This was done by repeated treatment the skin with sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) an increase in transepidermal Water loss (TEWL), inflammation and induced hyperplasia. The subsequent topical application Taurine significantly reduced TEWL. Farther stimulated taurine on skin models to a significant extent the synthesis all three classes of barrier lipids, namely ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids.

It also became surprising found that cytotoxic in the incubation of skin models with taurine and proinflammatory processes were inhibited. In particular, the release of interleukin-1-alpha decreased and from prostaglandin E2, the integrity of the keratinocyte membrane stabilized and improved the vitality of the keratinocytes yourself.

epidermal Interleukin-1-alpha (IL-1 alpha) is a significant proinflammatory Cytokine involved in the development of inflammation and hyperproliferation involved in a sodium dodecyl sulfate (SDS) -induced barrier disorder is. IL-1 alpha can be the payout induce other cytokines, including IL-6 and IL-8, and is found in expressed throughout the epidermis when epidermal Hyperplasia has been induced.

Based on these skin and skin model studies, it was an object of the present invention to develop topical compositions which enhance the barrier function of the skin, for example against transepidermal water loss, while reducing further adverse skin reactions to environmental stress. Another object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin and at the same time soothes the skin and / or have an anti-inflammatory effect. A further object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin and at the same time have a skin calming and / or anti-inflammatory effect, without bringing about side effects such as can occur, for example, in corticosteroid-based anti-inflammatory agents. A further object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin and at the same time have a pleasant, non-occlusive and / or non-sticky feel on the skin. Another object of the present invention was to develop topical compositions that strengthen the barrier function of the skin with a longer lasting effect than the prior art compositions. A further object of the present invention was to develop cost-effective and production-optimized topical compositions which strengthen the barrier function of the skin.

Surprisingly has been shown to regenerate the skin barrier function after SDS damage significantly accelerated when taurine (2-aminoethanesulfonic acid) is used becomes. Surprisingly Taurine was found to be significant in skin models Extent the Synthesis of all three classes of barrier lipids, namely ceramides, Cholesterols and fatty acids, stimulated. Taurine increases the levels of ceramides, cholesterol and free fatty acids to the same extent. This property is central because it applies correct mixing ratio of the three barrier lipids (M.M. Man et al., Optimization of physiological lipid mixtures for barrier repair, J. Invest. Dermatol. 106, 1096-101, 1996). The condition of dry skin, sensitive skin and aging skin will be sustainably improved. Taurine is also especially for treatment suitable for atopic dermatitis. In contrast to the previously in the state the art known barrier lipid-containing skin treatment agents the use according to the invention results of taurine to stimulate epidermal barrier lipid synthesis in providing the barrier lipids via the secretory mechanism the keratinocytes. In this way, the barrier lipids are correct enzymatically processed and functional in the multilamellar lipid membranes built-in. The barrier function is permanently improved in this way. The effect is especially still present when the product for some Days is no longer applied. Furthermore, the use of Taurine opposite the expensive synthetic ceramides economic benefits. Further economic and procedural benefits arise as taurine is easy can be incorporated into the water phase, while (synthetic) barrier lipids due to its high melting point only below (cost-increasing) Energy entry can be processed.

Farther was surprisingly found that taurine at the biochemical level by anionic Surfactants inhibited release of inflammatory mediators and the cellular vitality and integrity clearly improved. In particular, the effect on prostaglandin E2 was for the expert unexpected, since the chemical structure of taurine no similarities to known NSAIDs (non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs) shows.

The described effects are particularly observed when taurine in an oil-in-water emulsion, the at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol with a chain length of Alkyl group of 20-40 Contains carbon atoms. It is particularly preferred if the at least one linear primary fatty or waxy alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms in contained in such an amount that in the emulsion at least a lamellar liquid crystal phase is present. Based on the biological described here for the first time Effects of taurine and known biophysical effects The lamellar emulsion gives rise to unexpected synergism in terms of improving the barrier integrity as well an acceleration of the barrier regeneration. Such oil-in-water emulsions, the taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or waxy alcohol with a chain length the alkyl group of 20-40 Contain carbon atoms, more preferably at least a linear primary Fatty or waxy alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms contained in such an amount that at least one lamellar liquid crystal phase present, solve the invention provided Tasks and strengths the barrier function of the skin, especially against the transepidermal water loss. At the same time they reduce further Negative skin reactions to environmental stress, in particular, act they are soothing and / or anti-inflammatory, without causing any side effects, as they do for example in anti-inflammatory drugs can occur on corticoid basis. Furthermore At the same time, they are pleasant, non-occlusive and non-sticky skin feel on. They cause a long-lasting strengthening of the barrier function of the skin.

The present invention therefore relates to a cosmetic skin treatment composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in A form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for the regeneration of the skin barrier function. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for acceleration the regeneration of the skin barrier function. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms to improve the Appearance of dry skin. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms to improve the Radiation of the skin. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms for dry maintenance and chapped lips. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment composition in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for stimulation the epidermal synthesis of barrier lipids. Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for regeneration the skin barrier function, to accelerate the regeneration of the skin barrier function or to stimulate the epidermal synthesis of barrier lipids and at the same time for skin calming and / or anti-inflammatory. Another object of the present invention is the use of a skin-treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for the preparation of a therapeutic composition for Regeneration of the skin barrier function and, if appropriate, at the same time for skin calming and / or anti-inflammatory action. Another object of the present invention is the use of a skin-treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms, for the preparation of a therapeutic composition for Treatment of atopic dermatitis.

The Compositions of the invention contain taurine in an amount of 0.001-5.0 wt .-%, preferably 0.05-3.0 wt .-% and more preferably 0.1-1.0 Wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

The Compositions of the invention contain at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol with a chain length the alkyl group of 20-40 Carbon atoms in an amount of 0.5-15% by weight, preferably 0.8-10% by weight, particularly preferred 1-8 Wt .-% and extraordinary preferably 1.5-5 Wt .-%, each based on the weight of the total composition.

Preferred linear primary fatty or waxy alcohols having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms are selected from arachidyl alcohol (1-eicosanol), behenyl alcohol, lignoceryl alcohol (1-tetracosanol, C ₂₄ H ₅₀ O), ceryl alcohol (C ₂ H ₅₄ O) , Myricyl alcohol (1-triacontanol, C ₃₀ H ₆₂ O) and melissyl alcohol (C ₃₀ H ₆₄ O, 1-hentriacontanol). Particularly preferred are arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol. In a preferred embodiment of the invention, arachidyl alcohol is present in amounts of 0.05-5% by weight, more preferably 0.1-4% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, behenyl alcohol is present in amounts of 0.5-4% by weight, more preferably 1-2% by weight, based in each case on the weight of the total composition. In a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a mixture of arachidyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol is contained, wherein the preferred quantities mentioned for the individual substances are also considered to be preferred for the mixture.

According to the invention, it is crucial that the at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol with a chain length the alkyl group of 20-40 Carbon atoms contained in such an amount that in the emulsion is at least one lamellar liquid crystal phase.

Furthermore, it has surprisingly been found that by the presence of the lamellar liquid crystal phases generating linear primary fatty or wax alcohols having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms and the barrier function of the skin taurine strengthening also the effect of other cosmetic active ingredients selected from monomers, oligomers and Polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ - acyl amino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, is increased in a synergistic manner.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention therefore additionally contain at least one further cosmetic active ingredient which is selected from monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically tolerable metal salts of these substances , natural betaine compounds, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, N and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts. Ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, ectoine, skin-soothing and moisturizing agents and mixtures of these agents.

The monomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from alanine, arginine, asparagine, aspartic acid, canavanine, citrulline, cysteine, cystine, desmosine, glutamine, glutamic acid, glycine, histidine, homophenylalanine, hydroxylysine, hydroxyproline, Isodesmosin, isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, methylnorleucine, ornithine, phenylalanine, proline, pyroglutamic acid, sarcosine, serine, threonine, thyroxine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine, zinc pyroglutamate, sodium octanoylglutamate, sodium decanoylglutamate, sodium lauroylglutamate, sodium myristoylglutamate, sodium cetoylglutamate and sodium stearoylglutamate. Particularly preferred are lysine, serine, zinc and sodium pyroglutamate and sodium lauroylglutamate.

The C ₂ -C ₂₄ acyl radical with which the said amino acids are derivatized on the amino group is selected from an acetyl, propanoyl, butanoyl, pentanoyl, hexanoyl, heptanoyl, octanoyl, nonanoyl, decanoyl , Undecanoyl, lauroyl, tridecanoyl, myristoyl, pentadecanoyl, cetoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl, elaidoyl, arachidoyl or behenoyl radical. Mixtures of C ₈ -C ₁₈ acyl radicals are also referred to as cocoyl radical and are likewise preferred substituents.

The physiologically compatible Salts of the invention preferred Active substances, the acid groups contain and can form salts, are selected from the ammonium, alkali metal, magnesium, calcium, aluminum, Zinc and manganese salts. Preferably, the sodium, potassium, magnesium, Aluminum, zinc and manganese salts.

According to the invention, amino acid oligomers are peptides having 2-30, preferably 2-15, amino acids. The oligomers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are preferably selected from di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, hexa- or pentadecapeptides which may be N-acylated and / or esterified. Many of these amino acid oligomers stimulate collagen synthesis or are able to recruit immune system cells, such as mast cells and macrophages, which then induce tissue repair processes via the release of growth factors, eg, collagen synthesis, or are able to sequence them To bind Arg-Phe-Lys in thrombospondin I (TSP-1) and thus to release active TGF-β (tissue growth factor), which induces the synthesis of collagen in dermal fibroblasts. Such amino acid oligomers can be used as anti-aging agents.

According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified dipeptides are acetyl-citrullyl-arginine (eg Exsy-algins of exsymol), Tyr-Arg (dipeptide-1), Val-Trp (dipeptide-2), Asn Phe, Asp-Phe, N-palmitoyl-β-Ala-His, N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-hexyldecyl ester (eg, calmosensins from Sederma), carnosine (β-Ala-His), and N-palmitoyl pro- Arg. According to preferred, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tripeptides are Gly-His-Lys, z. B. under the name "Omega-CH activator" from GfN or in acylated form (N-palmitoyl-Gly-His-Lys) under the name Biopeptide CL is available from Sederma, but (in acylated form) also a component The tri-peptide Gly-His-Lys can also be used as a copper salt (Cu ²⁺ ) and as such can be obtained from ProCyte Corporation, and analogs of Gly-His-Lys can be used According to the invention, Ala, Leu and Ile are suitable for the substitution of Gly.The preferred amino acids according to the invention which can replace His or Lys include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is predominantly charged at pH 6, e.g. B. Pro, Lys, Arg, His, desmosine and isodesmosine Lys is particularly preferably replaced by Arg, Orn, or citrulline Another preferred tripeptide according to the invention is Gly-His-Arg (INCI name: Tripeptide-3) and its derivative N-myristoyl-Gly-His-Arg, z. B. available under the name Collasyn 314-GR from Therapeutic Peptide Inc.; Further preferred tripeptides according to the invention are selected from Lys-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Dab (Dab = diaminobutyric acid), Lys-Phe-Lys, Lys-Ile-Lys, Dab-Val-Lys, Lys-Val-Orn, Lys- Val-Dap (Dap = diaminopropionic acid), Dap-Val-Lys, palmitoyl-Lys-Val-Lys, e.g. As sold by the company Pentapharm under the name ^® SYN -COLL, Lys-Pro-Val, Tyr-Tyr-Val, Tyr-Val-Tyr, Val-Tyr-Val (Tripeptide-2), Tripeptide-4 (z. ATPeptides, via IMPAG), His-Ala-Orn N -elaidoyl-Lys-Phe-Lys and N-acetyl-Arg-Lys-Arg-NH ₂ . Preference according to the invention, optionally N-acylated and / or esterified tetrapeptides are selected from Rigin and Rigin-based tetrapeptides and ALAMCAT tetrapeptides. Rigin has the sequence Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg. Rigin-based tetrapeptides include the Rigin analogs and Rigin derivatives, in particular the invention particularly preferred N-palmitoyl-Gly-Gln-Pro-Arg, z. B. is available under the name Eyeliss of Sederma, but also forms part of the product Matrixyl 3000 of Sederma. The Rigin analogs include those in which the four amino acids are rearranged and / or in which a maximum of two amino acids are substituted to Rigin, z. For example, the sequence Ala-Gln-Thr-Arg. Preferably, at least one of the amino acids of the sequence has a Pro or Arg, and more preferably, the Tetrapeptide includes both Pro and Arg, and their order and position may vary. The substituting amino acids can be selected from any amino acid defined below. Particularly preferred rigin-based tetrapetides include: Xaa-Xbb-Arg-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Pro, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Arg, Xaa-Xbb-Pro-Xcc, Xaa-Xbb-Xcc-Arg, where Xaa , Xbb and Xcc may be the same or different amino acids and wherein Xaa is selected from Gly and the amino acids that can substitute Gly, Xbb is selected from Gln and the amino acids that can substitute for Gln, Xcc is selected from Pro or Arg and the Amino acids that can substitute Pro and Arg.

The preferred amino acids, which can replace Gly, include an aliphatic side chain, e.g. Β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and isoleucine (Ile).

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Gln, include a side chain with an amino group that is neutral pH (pH 6-7) predominantly uncharged, e.g. Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

The preferred amino acids, can replace the Arg, include a side chain with a nitrogen atom which is at pH 6 mostly charged, e.g. Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin.

When Rigin analogs according to the invention are Gly-Gln-Arg-Pro and Val-Val-Arg-Pro are preferred. ALAMCAT tetrapeptides are tetrapeptides, the at least one amino acid containing an aliphatic side chain, for. For example, β-Ala, Ala, Val, Leu, Pro, Sarcosine (Sar) and Isoleucine (Ile). Furthermore include ALAMCAT tetrapeptides having at least one amino acid with a side chain an amino group which is predominantly uncharged at neutral pH (pH 6-7), e.g. Gln, Asn, Lys, Orn, 5-hydroxyproline, citrulline and canavanine.

Farther ALAMCAT tetrapeptides contain at least one amino acid a side chain with a nitrogen atom, which at pH 6 predominantly loaded present, z. Arg, Pro, Lys, His, Desmosin and Isodesmosin. As the fourth amino acid can ALAMCAT tetrapeptides any amino acid contain; however, the fourth amino acid is also preferred the three aforementioned groups selected.

Optionally N-acylated and / or esterified pentapeptides which are preferred according to the invention are selected from Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Lys-Thr-Thr-Lys-Ser, which can be obtained under the Matrixyl is available from Sederma, further N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Met, Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro, N-palmitoyl-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-Leu, Gly- Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu and N-benzyloxycarbonyl-Gly-Pro-Phe-Pro-Leu (the latter two are serine proteinase inhibitors for desquamation inhibition). Preferred, if appropriate, N-acylated and / or esterified hexapeptides according to the invention are Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly and its N-acylated derivatives, particularly preferably N-palmitoyl-Val-Gly-Val-Ala-Pro-Gly Acetyl-Hexapeptide-3 (Argireline from Lipotec), Hexapeptide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), Hexapeptide-5 (e.g. Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-6 (e.g., Collasyn 614VG from TPI), hexapeptide-8 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from TPI ), Myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptide-9 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience) and hexapeptide-10 (eg Collaxyl from Vincience or Seriseline from Lipotec), Ala -Arg-His-Leu-Phe-Trp (hexapeptide-1), acetyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., modulene from Vincience), acetyl glutamyl hexapeptide-1 (e.g., SNAP-7 from Centerchem), hexapeptide-2 (eg, melanostatine-DM from Vinci ence), Ala-Asp-Leu-Lys-Pro-Thr (hexapeptide-3, e.g. Peptides 02 from Vincience), Val-Val-Arg-Pro-Pro-Pro, Hexapep tide-4 (e.g., Collasyn 6KS from Therapeutic Peptide Inc. (TPI)), hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 6VY from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-5 (e.g., Collasyn 614VY from TPI), myristoyl Hexapeptide-6 (eg Collasyn 614VG from TPI), Ala-Arg-His-methylnorleucine-homophenylalanine-Trp (hexapeptide-7), hexapeptide-8 (eg Collasyn 6KS from TPI), myristoyl hexapeptide-8 (e.g. e.g., Collasyn Lipo-6KS from TPI), hexapeptides-9 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), hexapeptides-10 (e.g., Collaxyl from Vincience), and hexapeptides-11 (e.g., Peptamide-6 from Arch Personal Care). An inventively preferred pentadecapeptide is z. As the raw material Vinci 01 by Vincience (Pentadecapeptide-1). Another preferred optional amino acid oligomer is the peptide derivative L-glutamylaminoethyl-indole (glistin from exsymol).

Another object of the present invention is the non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion containing taurine, at least one linear primary fatty or wax alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms and at least one cosmetic active ingredient selected from oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, for the treatment of skin aging symptoms.

The polymers of the amino acids and / or the NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids are selected from vegetable and animal protein hydrolysates and / or proteins. Animal protein hydrolysates are z. B. elastin, collagen, keratin, silk and milk protein protein hydrolysates, which may also be in the form of salts. Vegetable protein hydrolysates, eg. Soy, wheat, almonds, peas, potato and rice protein hydrolysates. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. DiaMin® ^® (Diamalt) Gluadin ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex) and Crotein ^® (Croda). Particularly preferred are soy protein hydrolysates, e.g. For example, the commercial products Phytokine from Coletica or Ridulisse C from Silab. Naturally, protein hydrolysates may also contain monomeric amino acids and oligopeptides; their composition is usually undefined.

Also possible is the use of acyl derivatives of protein hydrolysates, z. In the form of their fatty acid condensation products. Corresponding commercial products are z. B. Lamepon® ^® (Cognis), Gluadin® ^® (Cognis), Lexein ^® (Inolex), Crolastin ^® or crotein ^© (Croda).

Cationized protein hydrolysates can also be used according to the invention. Preference is given to cationic protein hydrolysates whose protein content on which they are based has a molecular weight of from 100 to 25,000 daltons, preferably from 250 to 5,000 daltons. Furthermore, cationic protein hydrolyzates are to be understood as meaning quaternized amino acids and mixtures thereof. Furthermore, the cationic protein hydrolysates may also be further derivatized. As typical examples of inventively used cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives are some of ^th under the INCI names in the "International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook" (seventh edition 1997, The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association 1101 17 Street, NW, Suite 300, Washington, DC 20036-4702) and listed on the market: Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Steardimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Collagen, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Cocodimoium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Silk, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Soy Protein, Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein , Cocodimonium Hydroxypropyl Silk Amino Acids, Hydroxypropyl Arginine Lauryl / Myristyl Ether HCl. Very particular preference is given to the cationic protein hydrolysates and derivatives based on plants.

In a further preferred embodiment are the polymers of the amino acids selected from DNA repair enzymes.

According to the invention preferred DNA repair enzymes are photolyase and T4 endonuclease V, the latter further abbreviated to "T4N5". These Both enzymes are already known in the art as so-called DNA repair enzymes known. By DNA repair is by definition the cleavage or removal of UV-induced Pyrimidindimeren from the DNA to understand.

photolyase is the short name for Deoxyribodipyrimidine photolyase or DNA photolyase, an enzyme with the classification number EC 4.1.99.3. A particularly efficient photolyase is from Anacystis nidulans, a phototrophic marine microorganism. The photolyase from A. nidulans is now in technically relevant quantities obtained from E. coli. Photolyase relies on light for activation.

The enzyme T4 endonuclease V is produced by the denV gene of bacteriophage T4 and belongs to the phosphodiesterases which hydrolytically cleave the nucleic acids at the (5'-3 ') bond. T4N5 is too without the influence of light active.

Particularly preferred according to the invention is the use of liposome-encapsulated DNA repair enzymes. Liposome-encapsulated photolyase is commercially available for. B. under the product name Photosomes ^TM , liposome-encapsulated T4N5 z. B. under the name Ultrasomes ^TM from AGl Dermatics, USA, available.

In the compositions according to the invention, the Photosome ^™ or Ultrasome ^{™ are present} in amounts of 0.1-10% by weight, preferably 0.5-5.0% by weight and more preferably 1.0-4.0% by weight. , based on the total mean.

In the compositions according to the invention are the monomers, oligomers or polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances in amounts of 0.00001-10 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 -5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01-3 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

In a further preferred embodiment, the monomers, oligomers and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids, the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances are present in supported form, in particular applied to finely divided, powdery substrates such as silica gel, in particular Aerosil types, talc, microsponges, modified starches and starch derivatives, crystalline cellulose, cellulose powders, lactoglobulin derivatives, nylon polymer particles, polyolefins, polycarbonates, polyurethanes, polyacrylates, (meth) acrylate or (meth) acrylate-vinylidene copolymers which are crosslinked may, polyesters, polyamides, polystyrenes, Teflon and silicones. A particularly preferred raw material of this type are the Vegetal Filling Spheres of Coletica.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one DNA oligonucleotide or an RNA oligonucleotide.

According to the invention under an oligonucleotide polymers from 2 to 20, preferably From 2 to 10 mononucleotides understood as well as polynucleotides and nucleic acids are linked by phosphoric acid diester bridges. The nucleotides consist of nucleobases (usually pyrimidine or purine derivatives), Pentoses (usually D-ribofuranose or 2-deoxy-D-ribofuranose in β-N-glycosidic Binding to the nucleobase) and phosphoric acid. The mononucleotides are for example, adenosine phosphates, cytidine phosphates, guanosine phosphates, Uridine phosphates and thymidine phosphates, especially CMP (cytidine 5'-monophosphate), UDP (Uridine 5'-diphosphate), ATP (adenosine 5'-triphosphate) and GTP (guanosine 5'-triphosphate).

One particularly according to the invention the preferred oligonucleotide is the thymidine dinucleotide. In the Compositions of the invention are the DNA oligonucleotides or RNA oligonucleotides in amounts of 0.00001 to 5 % By weight, preferably 0.0001-1.0 % By weight and especially preferably 0.0005-0.5 Wt .-%, based on the total agent included.

In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally comprise at least one natural betaine compound. Natural betaine compounds used according to the invention are naturally occurring compounds with the atomic grouping R ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -X-COO ^- according to IUPAC Rule C-816.1. So-called betaine surfactants (synthetic) do not fall under the betaine compounds used according to the invention, nor any other zwitterionic compounds in which the positive charge on N or P and the negative charge formally reside on O, S, B or C, but which are not of the IUPAC Comply with rule C-816.1. Betaine compounds preferred according to the invention are betaine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -COO ^- ) and carnitine (Me ₃ N ⁺ -CH ₂ -CHOH-CH ₂ -COO ^- ), each with Me = methyl.

The Betaine compounds are in the compositions of the invention in one Total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, especially preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, contain.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one vitamin, provitamin or one as a vitamin precursor designated compound from the vitamin groups A, B, C, E, H and K or the esters of the aforementioned substances.

The group of substances called vitamin A includes retinol (vitamin A ₁ ) and 3,4-didehydroretinol (vitamin A ₂ ). The β-carotene is the provitamin of retinol. As a vitamin A component According to the invention, for example, vitamin A acid and its esters, vitamin A aldehyde and vitamin A alcohol and its esters, such as retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate into consideration. The preparations according to the invention preferably contain the vitamin A component in amounts of 0.05-1% by weight, based on the total composition.

• – Vitamin B₁, Trivialname Thiamin, chemische Bezeichnung 3-[(4'-Amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl)-methyl]-5-(2-hydroxyethyl)-4-methylthiazoliumchlorid. Bevorzugt wird Thiaminhydrochlorid in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₂, Trivialname Riboflavin, chemische Bezeichnung 7,8-Dimethyl-10-(1-D-ribityl)-benzo[g]pteridin-2,4(3H,10H)-dion. Bevorzugt werden Riboflavin oder seine Derivate in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, eingesetzt.
• – Vitamin B₃. Unter dieser Bezeichnung werden die Verbindungen Nicotinsäure und Nicotinsäureamid (Niacinamid) geführt. Erfindungsgemäß bevorzugt ist das Nicotinsäureamid, das in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,05 bis 1 Gew.-%, bezogen auf das gesamte Mittel, enthalten ist.
• – Vitamin B₅ (Pantothensäure und Panthenol). Bevorzugt wird Panthenol eingesetzt. Erfindungsgemäß einsetzbare Derivate des Panthenols sind insbesondere die Ester und Ether des Panthenols sowie kationisch derivatisierte Panthenole. In einer weiteren bevorzugten Ausführungsform der Erfindung können an Stelle von sowie zusätzlich zu Pantothensäure oder Panthenol auch Derivate des 2-Furanon mit der allgemeinen Strukturformel (I) eingesetzt werden.

The vitamin B group or the vitamin B complex include, among others

• - Vitamin B ₁ , common name thiamine, chemical name 3 - [(4'-amino-2'-methyl-5'-pyrimidinyl) methyl] -5- (2-hydroxyethyl) -4-methylthiazolium chloride. Thiamine hydrochloride is preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₂ , trivial name riboflavin, chemical name 7,8-dimethyl-10- (1-D-ribityl) benzo [g] pteridine-2,4 (3H, 10H) -dione. Riboflavin or its derivatives are preferably used in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₃ . Under this name, the compounds nicotinic acid and nicotinamide (niacinamide) are performed. Preferred according to the invention is the nicotinic acid amide, which is preferably present in the agents according to the invention in amounts of from 0.05 to 1% by weight, based on the total agent.
• - Vitamin B ₅ (pantothenic acid and panthenol). Panthenol is preferably used. Derivatives of panthenol which can be used according to the invention are, in particular, the esters and ethers of panthenol and also cationically derivatized panthenols. In a further preferred embodiment of the invention, instead of and in addition to pantothenic acid or panthenol, it is also possible to use derivatives of 2-furanone having the general structural formula (I).

Preference is given to the 2-furanone derivatives in which the substituents R to R independently of one another are a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a methyl, methoxy-aminomethyl or hydroxymethyl radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, linear or branched C ₂ - C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical, a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di-trihydroxy-C ₂ -C ₄ - hydrocarbon radical or a saturated or mono- or diunsaturated, branched or linear mono-, di- or triamino -C ₂ -C ₄ hydrocarbon radical. Particularly preferred derivatives are the commercially available substances dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone with the trivial name pantolactone (Merck), 4-hydroxymethyl-γ-butyrolactone (Merck), 3,3 Dimethyl 2-hydroxy-γ-butyrolactone (Aldrich) and 2,5-dihydro-5-methoxy-2-furanone (Merck), expressly including all stereoisomers. The extremely preferred 2-furanone derivative according to the invention is pantolactone (dihydro-3-hydroxy-4,4-dimethyl-2 (3H) -furanone), where in formula (I) R ^{1 is} a hydroxyl group, R ^{2 is} a hydrogen atom, R ³ and R ^{4 represent} a methyl group and R ⁵ and R ^{6 represent} a hydrogen atom. The stereoisomer (R) -pantolactone is formed during the degradation of pantothenic acid.

• – Vitamin B₆, wobei man hierunter keine einheitliche Substanz, sondern die unter den Trivialnamen Pyridoxin, Pyridoxamin und Pyridoxal bekannten Derivate des 5-Hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols versteht. Vitamin B₆ ist in den erfindungs gemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-%, enthalten.
• – Vitamin B₇ (Biotin), auch als Vitamin H oder "Hautvitamin" bezeichnet. Bei Biotin handelt es sich um (3aS,4S, 6aR)-2-Oxohexahydrothienol[3,4-d]-imidazol-4-valeriansäure. Biotin ist in den erfindungsgemäßen Mitteln bevorzugt in Mengen von 0,0001 bis 1,0 Gew.-%, insbesondere in Mengen von 0,001 bis 0,01 Gew.-% enthalten.

The said compounds of the vitamin B ₅ type and the 2-furanone derivatives are present in the compositions according to the invention in a total amount of 0.05 to 5 wt.%, Preferably 0.1 to 3 wt.%, Particularly preferably 0.5 to 2 wt .-%, each based on the total composition included.

• - Vitamin B ₆ , which is understood hereunder no uniform substance, but the known under the common names pyridoxine, pyridoxamine and pyridoxal derivatives of 5-hydroxymethyl-2-methylpyridin-3-ols. Vitamin B ₆ is in the fiction, contemporary means in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular in amounts of 0.001 to 0.01 wt .-%, included.
• - Vitamin B ₇ (biotin), also known as vitamin H or "skin vitamin". Biotin is (3aS, 4S, 6aR) -2-oxohexahydrothienol [3,4-d] imidazole-4-valeric acid. Biotin is preferably present in the compositions according to the invention in amounts of from 0.0001 to 1.0% by weight, in particular in amounts of from 0.001 to 0.01% by weight.

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) is preferably used in amounts of 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, based on the total composition. The use of the derivatives ascorbyl palmitate, stearate, dipalmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, sodium and magnesium ascorbate, disodium ascorbyl phosphate and sulfate, potassium ascorbyl tocopheryl phosphate, chitosan ascorbate or ascorbyl glucoside may be preferred. The use in combination with tocopherols may also be preferred.

to Counting vitamin E group Tocopherol, in particular α-tocopherol, and its derivatives. Preferred derivatives are in particular the esters, such as tocopheryl acetate, nicotinate, phosphate, succinate, linoleate, oleate, tocophereth-5, tocophereth-10, tocophereth-12, tocophereth-18, Tocophereth-50 and tocopherol. Tocopherol and its derivatives are preferred in amounts of 0.05-1 wt .-%, based on the entire composition, included.

Under Vitamin F will be common essential fatty acids, especially linoleic acid, Linolenic acid and arachidonic acid, Understood.

Vitamin H is another name for biotin or vitamin B ₇ (see above).

The fat-soluble vitamins of the vitamin K group, which are based on the basic structure of 2-methyl-1,4-naphthoquinone, include phylloquinone (vitamin K ₁ ), farnoquinone or menaquinone-7 (vitamin K2) and menadione (vitamin K ₃ ) , Vitamin K is preferably present in amounts of 0.0001 to 1.0 wt .-%, in particular 0.01 to 0.5 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

vitamin A-palmitate (retinyl palmitate), panthenol, pantolactone, nicotinic acid amide, Pyridoxine, pyridoxamine, pyridoxal, biotin, ascorbyl palmitate, acetate, Mg ascorbyl phosphate, Na ascorbyl phosphate, Sodium and magnesium ascorbate and tocopherol esters, especially Tocopheryl acetate are particularly preferred according to the invention.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one flavonoid or a flavonoid-rich plant extract. The inventively preferred Flavonoids include the glycosides of flavones, the flavanones, the 3-hydroxyflavones (flavonols), aurones and isoflavones. Especially preferred flavonoids are selected from naringin (aurantiine, naringenin-7-rhamnoglucoside), α-glucosylrutin, α-glucosylmyricetin, α-glucosylisoquercetin, α-glucosylquercetin, Hesperidin (3 ', 5,7-trihydroxy-4'-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside, Hesperidin-7-O-rhamnoglucoside), neohesperidin, rutin (3,3 ', 4', 5,7-pentahydroxyflavone-3-rhamnoglucoside, quercetin-3-rhamnoglucoside), Troxerutin (3,5-dihydroxy-3 ', 4', 7-tris (2-hydroxyethoxy) flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside) ) Monoxerutin (3,3 ', 4', 5-Tetrahydroxy-7- (2-hydroxyethoxy) -flavone-3- (6-O- (6-deoxy-α-L-mannopyranosyl) -β-D-glucopyranoside)) . Diosmin (3 ', 4', 7-trihydroxy-5-methoxyflavanone-7-rhamnoglucoside), Eriodictin and apigenin-7-glucoside (4 ', 5,7-trihydroxyflavone-7-glucoside). Extraordinarily according to the invention preferred flavonoids are α-glucosylrutin, Naringin and Apigenin-7-glucoside.

Also preferred are the biflavonoids composed of two flavonoid units, the z. B. occur in gingko species. Other preferred flavonoids are the chalcones, especially phloricin and neohesperidin dihydrochalcone.

According to the invention the flavonoids in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.001 to 0.1 wt .-%, respectively based on the flavonoid active substance in the whole composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one isoflavonoid or an isoflavonoid-rich plant extract. To the Isoflavonoid at this point the Isoflavone and the isoflavone glycosides are counted. For the purposes of the present invention, isoflavones are substances to understand the hydrogenation, oxidation or substitution products of 3-phenyl-4H-1-benzopyran represent, wherein a hydrogenation in the 2,3-position of the carbon skeleton are present may be an oxidation to form a carbonyl group in the 4-position, and substitution substitute one or more hydrogen atoms by hydroxy or methoxy groups to understand. Examples of preferred isoflavones according to the invention include Daidzein, Genistein, Prunetin, Biochanin, Orobol, Santal, Pratensein, Irigenin, Glycitein, Biochanin A and Formononetin. As isoflavones Daidzein, genistein, glycitein and formononetin are particularly preferred.

In the isoflavone glycosides preferred according to the invention, the isoflavones are glycosidically linked via at least one hydroxy group to at least one sugar. Suitable sugars are mono- or oligosaccharides, in particular D-glucose, D-galactose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-xylose, D-apiose, L-rhamnose, L-arabinose and rutinose. Isofla particularly preferred according to the invention von glycosides are daidzin and genistin.

According to the invention it is preferred if the isoflavones and / or their glycosides as Constituents of a substance mixture obtained from a plant, in particular a herbal extract, in the preparations are included. Such vegetable substance mixtures can be found in the person skilled in the art For example, by squeezing or extracting from plants like soy, especially from soybean, red clover or chickpeas be won. Particular preference is given in the preparations according to the invention Isoflavones or isoflavone glycosides in the form of soy-derived Extracts used, such as under the product name Soy Protein Isolate SPI (Protein Technology International, St. Louis) or Soy Phytochemicals Concentrate SPC (Archer Daniels Midland, Decatur) commercially available are. Another particularly preferred isoflavonoid-rich plant extract is apple seed extract, in particular the commercial product Ederline of Seporga. Ederline contains Phytohormones, isoflavonoids, phytosterols, triterpenoids, tocopherols and natural Waxes.

According to the invention the isoflavonoids in amounts of 0.00001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.0005 to 0.5% by weight, and more preferably 0.001 to 0.1% by weight, in each case based on the Isoflavonoidaktivsubstanz in the entire Composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one polyphenol or polyphenol-rich plant extract. Under polyphenols according to the invention are aromatic compounds to understand the at least two phenolic hydroxy groups in the molecule contain. Which includes the three dihydroxybenzenes catechol, resorcinol and hydroquinone, furthermore phloroglucin, pyrogallol and hexahydroxybenzene. In the Naturally, free and etherified polyphenols occur, for example flower pigments (Anthocyanidins, flavones), in tannins (catechins, tannins), as lichen or fern ingredients (usnic acid, acylpolyphenols), in lignins and as gallic acid derivatives on. Preferred polyphenols are flavones, catechins, usnic acid, and as tannins the derivatives of gallic acid, digallic acid and Digalloylgallic. Particularly preferred polyphenols are the monomeric catechins, the is called the derivatives of flavan-3-ols, and leucoanthocyanidins, that is the derivatives leucoanthocyanidins, which are preferably phenolic in the 5,7,3 ', 4', 5 'position Carry hydroxy groups, preferably epicatechin and epigallocatechin, and the resulting by self-condensation tannins. Such tanning agents are preferably not in isolated pure substance, but used as extracts of tannin-rich plant parts, z. Extracts of catechu, quebracho, oak bark and pine bark as well as other tree barks, leaves of green Tea (camellia sinensis) and mate. Also particularly preferred are the tannins.

One particularly preferred polyphenol rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Sepivinol R, an extract of red wine, available from the company Seppic. Another particularly preferred polyphenol-rich cosmetic active ingredient is the commercial product Crodarom Chardonnay, an extract from the kernels of the Chardonnay grape, available from the company Croda.

According to the invention the polyphenols in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-%, preferably 0.005 to 5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, respectively based on the total composition used.

mit n = 6, 7, 8, 9 oder 10.In a further preferred embodiment, the compositions according to the invention additionally contain at least one ubiquinone or ubiquinol or derivatives thereof. Ubiquinols are the reduced form of ubiquinones. The preferred ubiquinones according to the invention have the formula (II):

with n = 6, 7, 8, 9 or 10.

Especially Preferably, the ubiquinone of formula (II) with n = 10, also known as coenzyme Q10.

According to the invention the ubiquinones, ubiquinols or their derivatives in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally Silymarin. Silymarin according to the invention is an earlier than uniform substance prestigious active substance concentrate from the fruits of the milk thistle (Silybum marianum). The main constituents of silymarin are silybin (Silymarin I), Silychristin (Silymarin II) and Silydianin, which were added to the Group of Flavanolignane belong. Silymarin is particularly preferred in liposome-encapsulated form used, available z. Under the trade name silymarin phytosome (INCL: Silybum Marianum Extract and Phospholipids) from Indena SpA.

According to the invention is silymarin in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.1 wt .-%, each based on the Active substance in the whole composition, used.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally Ectoin. Ectoin is the common name for 2-methyl-1,4,5,6-tetrahydropyrimidine-4-carboxylate. Ectoin is according to the invention in amounts of 0.0001 to 1 wt .-%, preferably 0.001 to 0.5 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.005 to 0.01% by weight, in each case based on the total Composition, included.

In a further preferred embodiment contain the compositions of the invention additionally at least one skin-soothing or moisturizing agent.

According to the invention preferred Skin soothing agents are selected from allantoin, α-bisabolol, α-lipoic acid, extracts from Centella asiatica, for example, available under the name Madecassicoside of DSM, glycyrrethic acid, which is particularly preferred encapsulated in liposomes and in this form z. More colorful the trade name Calmsphere is available from Soliance, Mixtures of cereal waxes, extracts of shea butter and argania Spinosa Oil with the INCI name "Spent grain wax and butyrospermum parkii (shea butter) extract and Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil ", as they are z. B. under the trade name Stimu-Tex AS of the Company Pentapharm available are, extracts of Vanilla Tahitensis, such as. B. under the Trade name Vanirea (INCl: Vanilla Tahitensis Fruit Extract) available from the company Solabia are, extracts of olive leaves (INCL: Olea Europaea (Olive) Leaf Extract), as they specifically under the trade name Oleanoline DPG from Vincience available are, continue Alginhydrolysaten how they z. B. under the trade name Phycosaccharides, especially phycosaccharides AI, from the company Codif available are extracts of Bacopa Monniera, as z. B. under the trade name Bacocalmine available from the company Sederma are, extracts from the rooibos plant, as z. B. under the trade name Rooibos Herbasec MPE are available from the company Cosmetochem, the physiologically acceptable Salts of sterol sulfates, as z. B. under the trade name Phytocohesins (INCl: Sodium Beta-Sitosteryl Sulfate) from the company Vincience available are, as well as any mixtures of these agents.

The skin-calming active ingredients other than taurine in amounts of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total Composition, included.

According to the invention preferred moisturizing agents are selected from deoxy sugars, particularly preferably rhamnose and fucose, polysaccharides which a deoxy-block contain at least, more preferably the commercial product Fucogel ^®, urea, (2-hydroxyethyl) urea, glycosaminoglycans, particularly preferably hyaluronic acid, dextran, dextran sulfate , Chondroitin 4-sulfate and chondroitin 6-sulfate.

The moisturizing agents are available in quantities of 0.001 to 5 wt .-%, preferably 0.01 to 2 wt .-% and particularly preferably 0.1 to 1 wt .-%, each based on the total composition.

experimental investigations

Tab. 1: Influence of taurine on the epidermal barrier function after repetitive SDS damage in vivo (SDS = sodium dodecyl sulfate)

The barrier of the skin was damaged by occlusive application of 0.75% SDS. Subsequently, oil-in-water emulsions with 1.5 wt .-% behenyl alcohol and 2.75 wt .-% arachidyl alcohol (VAR1: 0 wt .-% taurine, VAR2: 1 wt .-% taurine) applied, or the Skin remained untreated (VAR3). This treatment was performed twice daily for 5 days. Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) was determined in each case before SDS damage with a TEWAMETER (Courage & Khazaka, Cologne, Germany). The data were normalized to the t ₀ values and a dimensionless value "area under the curve" was calculated (see Table 1) The statistical analysis of the data is based on the paired Wilcoxon test The data represent the mean values (n = 18) ,

Tab. 2: Influence of taurine on irritation markers in vitro

Epidermis models were topically incubated for 1 hour with an aqueous solution of 0.18% SDS in water. As expected, this treatment resulted in a marked reduction in cellular vitality, an increased release of LDH (lactate dehydrogenase), interleukin 1-alpha (IL-1alpha) and prostaglandin E2 (PGE2). Subsequently, the epidermis models were rinsed and incubated for an additional 24h under topical application the following emulsions: C: corticosteroid-ratiopharm ^® cream (0.1 wt .-% triamcinolone acetonide); D: 1.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol + 2.75% by weight of arachidyl alcohol; E: 1.5% by weight of behenyl alcohol + 2.75% by weight of arachidyl alcohol + 1% by weight of taurine. For control, epidermis models were cultured untreated (A) or left untreated after rinsing off the SDS solution (B). The data represent the mean +/- SEM (n = 3).

influence of taurine on the epidermal synthesis of barrier lipid epidermis models were cultured for 12 days. After 12 days (t = 0) the individually developed so-called barrier lipids (ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids, Cholesterol sulfates and cholesterol esters). Subsequently, a Part of the epidermis models further cultivated for 5 days without the addition of taurine. Another part of the epidermis models was without supplement for 5 days of 0.3 mM taurine. After a total of 17 days of cultivation (t = 5), the barrier lipids were quantified again. It showed itself, that the addition of taurine causes an increase in the epidermal Synthesis of barrier lipids resulted (see Table 3). The differences shown in Tab. 3 to t = 5 were statistically significant (p <0.05).

Table 3: Influence of taurine on the epidermal synthesis of barrier lipids (data on the amount of barrier lipids in% by weight, based on the total lipid content of the epidermis models, mean values of n = 4 measurements (+/- SD))

The following examples are intended to explain the invention, without restricting it to this.

1. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions as day creams

2. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions as day creams

3. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions with DNA repair enzyme and silymarin

4. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions with sunscreen

5. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions

6. Lamellar oil-in-water emulsions

List of raw materials used

Claims (16)

Cosmetic skin treatment agent in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, containing taurine and at least one linear primary fatty or waxy alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms. Cosmetic skin treatment composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the at least one linear primary fatty or waxy alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms is contained in such an amount that in the emulsion at least a lamellar liquid crystal phase is present. Cosmetic skin treatment composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the at least one linear primary Fatty or waxy alcohol having a chain length of the alkyl group of 20-40 carbon atoms in an amount of 0.5-15 Wt .-%, based on the total composition is included. Cosmetic skin treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the linear primary with a chain length of Alkyl group of 20-40 Carbon atoms selected is from behenyl alcohol and arachidyl alcohol and mixtures of these Substances. Cosmetic skin treatment agent according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that in addition at least one further cosmetic active ingredient selected from monomers, oligo and polymers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, natural betaine compounds, vitamins, provitamins and vitamin precursors of groups A, B, C, E, H and K and the esters of the aforementioned substances, flavonoids and flavonoid-rich plant extracts, isoflavonoids and isoflavonoid-rich plant extracts, polyphenols and polyphenol-rich plant extracts, ubiquinone and ubiquinol and their derivatives, silymarin, ectoine, soothing and moisturizing agents and mixtures of these agents. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic A skin treatment agent according to any one of claims 1-5 for the regeneration of the skin barrier function. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic A skin treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-5 for accelerating regeneration the skin barrier function. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic A skin treatment agent according to any one of claims 1-5 for improving the appearance dry skin. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic Skin treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-5 for improving the appearance of the skin. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic A skin treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-5 for the care of dry and chapped lips. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic A skin treatment composition according to any one of claims 1-5 for stimulating the epidermal Synthesis of barrier lipids. Non-therapeutic use according to any of claims 6-11 for Skin calming and / or anti-inflammatory. Non-therapeutic use of a cosmetic skin treatment composition according to claim 5, wherein the cosmetic active ingredient is selected from oligomers of amino acids, NC ₂ -C ₂₄ -acylamino acids and / or the esters and / or the physiologically acceptable metal salts of these substances, for the treatment of skin aging symptoms , Use of a skin treatment agent after one the claims 1-5 to Preparation of a therapeutic composition for regeneration the skin barrier function. Use of a skin treatment agent after one the claims 1-5 to Preparation of a therapeutic composition for regeneration the skin barrier function and at the same time for skin calming and / or Inflammation. Use of a skin treatment agent after one the claims 1-5 to Preparation of a therapeutic composition for treatment atopic dermatitis.