DE102004037753A1 - Skin cosmetic preparation - Google Patents

Abstract

There are described skin cosmetic preparations which help by their specific active complexes of the skin to many advantages, but in particular improve the moisture accumulation, lipid supply and elasticity of the skin. The active complexes essentially correspond to the complete spectrum of the natural components of healthy skin and, in combination, provide the best possible full skin care. Furthermore, a product, a substrate and a shaped body are described, which contain these preparations.

Description

The The invention relates to a skin cosmetic preparation which, at least includes eight active ingredients in four specific active complexes, as well as the use of this preparation. Furthermore, the invention relates a product, a substrate and a molded article, each of these Preparation included.

The Human skin forms the interface of the human organism to the environment and that's why they have important protective functions, for example, opposite the penetration of foreign substances, against mechanical stress or opposite adverse climatic influences. Furthermore meets the Skin diverse physiological functions, e.g. the temperature regulation, the Regulation of water balance or vitamin D synthesis. Farther the skin is the seat of sensory cells for the perception of pressure, temperature, Pain. A healthy skin is therefore of great importance for humans.

One very important part of the skin is, for example, the so-called Hydrolipid layer. This surface film on the skin (acid mantle) is one of essentially certain fats as well as fatty acids, amino acids, organic and inorganic salts and especially water-formed layer, which have a pH around 5 to 6 and their components, at least in case of healthy skin, constantly be reproduced. This hydrolipid layer forms together with The horny layer is an effective barrier against chemical, microbiological and mechanical actions and also serves as important Lock for the water delivery of the body. Hydrolipid and horny layer contribute significantly in this way Maintenance of functionality of tissues and cells.

The Maintaining this comprehensive skin functions makes it mandatory, their damage and disease, for example, by appropriate Skin protection and optimal cosmetic skin care.

Skin care products are generally used in cosmetics and dermatology, to help the skin, the natural Preservation of equilibrium state or to find this back and to give it advantageously also an even better protection against external influences.

For example by external influences like weather or environmental influences changed Properties of the skin should therefore be restored by means of adequate skincare and potential damage The skin should be prevented by such or other actions.

Of the Skin condition should generally be improved. The natural one Aging process of Skin should be counteracted. Damaged skin should be relieved and be supplied so that they can regenerate again.

Preparations for Skin care and skin protection, which specify parts of previously To serve these objectives are offered in the trade. From qualitative high-quality skincare and treatment products are also expected that she not only protect the skin from adverse effects and maintain it, but that she also endogenous skin damage counteract. At least their application but also for people with endogenous skin damage possible be without a symptom boost to create. This aspect is just for people with a disposition atopic dermatitis, hives, psoriasis, ichthyosis, Dyskeratosis or similar diseases of great importance, as well for those who have a particularly sensitive skin or a predisposition to have skin irritations or irritations or even impurities. For this reason, skin care and treatment agents should also be prepared so that the skin by no means additional to treatment with these agents Is exposed to stress, for example, by certain Ingredients of these funds, and possibly to a new one Skin irritation leads, which is induced by the agent application.

task In the present invention, it was against this background, a hautkosmetische Preparation to meet the aforementioned requirements which, by their application, preserves and restores the barrier function of the skin, the maintenance or the improvement the elasticity of the skin, the sustainable supply of the skin with moisture and fat, the Protection of the skin from dehydration and advantageously the Retardie tion ensures skin aging is achieved, but especially the improvement of the skin elasticity becomes.

• a) Säurepuffer, bestehend aus mindestens einer Säure und einem Salz
• b) Vitaminkomplex, bestehend aus mindestens zwei Vitaminen, Vitaminderivaten und/oder Vitaminvorstufen
• c) Feuchtigkeitsregulans, bestehend aus mindestens zwei nicht-ionischen Wirkstoffen d) mindestens 3 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise mindestens 5 Gew.-% natürliche fette Öle, die Jodzahlen von über 95 und vorzugsweise mehr als 70 % C-18-Fettsäuren aufweisen.

This object is achieved according to the invention by a skin-cosmetic preparation containing at least eight, preferably natural or nature-identical, active ingredients in a total amount of at least 20 wt .-%, advantageously of at least 25 wt .-%, in particular of at least 30 wt .-% and at least the following four active complexes comprise:

• a) acid buffer consisting of at least one acid and one salt
• b) vitamin complex consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors
• c) moisture regulators consisting of at least two nonionic active ingredients d) at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, of natural fatty oils which have iodine numbers of more than 95 and preferably more than 70% C-18 fatty acids.

It was found that the inventive preparation very good for maintaining and protecting the physiological skin balance contributes. It was further found that a such preparation of the skin helps especially to moisturize store so that the Moisture content of the skin improved and sustainable, d. H. for a duration at least about 24 hours after use, advantageously also about that out, is stabilized. The skin moisture decreases overall to. Also the fat content of the skin, surprisingly also that of atopic Skin, increases significantly, but advantageously without the skin externally shine would or greasy, which is surprising is. The preparation also has skin-healing properties, which is especially with regard to atopic skin is beneficial. Skin healing and regeneration are accelerated. The preparation protects the skin, in particular sensitive skin from external influences. The Preparation is very easy to apply and very well distributed on the skin, is absorbed very quickly and does not grease. Elasticity and firmness of the skin will be significantly increased by the preparation.

The Skin feels it punishes without creating a sense of tension. The general Appearance of the skin is improved or beautified, the general skin condition is improved, the skin surface becomes noticeable strengthened and smoothed, Skin roughness is reduced. The skin appears silky, dull and pored. The natural one Metabolism of the skin is activated and supported, resulting in regeneration and (Re) vitalization of the skin leads.

The Skin is not just harmful Environmental influences, from skin irritations and redness, but also protected from visible traces of premature aging. The Skin aging is slowed down. The wrinkling is prevented and existing wrinkles are mitigated or reduced. The skin feels as a result of the application the preparation smooth and supple. Advantageously done the reduction of fine lines, wrinkles or other unwanted Textures of the skin surface rapidly, preferably after a single application with a duration of action advantageously at least 12 hours, in particular at least 24 hours.

Of the Effect thus does not occur after an application of the preparation over a longer Period, for example 1-2 Weeks, but preferably already after the 1st application, so suddenly. So it's going to be a sudden Improvement of the skin surface and skin properties achieved overall. This is especially true for the skin moisture and also and elasticity. Even with a single application, skin moisture improves and skin elasticity. Advantageously, the resilience of the Skin after deformation increased after the first application, preferably with a duration of action of several hours. The overall effect of Preparation is unexpected and shines through the increasing interaction the four active complexes to take place. A preparation according to the invention it is advantageously able to provide the skin with a substantially comprehensive nature To offer complete spectrum of their own components and so one Achieve maximum care without damaging the skin.

Of the Term Wirk- "complex" means in context with the terms acid buffer, Vitamin complex, moisture regulator, fatty oils, each one such Effective complex form that this each consists of at least 2 substances, preferably at least 3 substances which interact.

With Looking at the overall effect of the preparation, it is particularly advantageous if the iodine numbers of the fatty oils are above 105, preferably over 110, advantageously over 115, more preferably over 120, more preferably over 125 and especially about 130 lie.

According to a preferred embodiment, the preparation is present as an emulsion, preferably as an o / w emulsion, in particular as an o / w nanoemulsion, wherein the droplet size d _{50 of} the nanoemulsion is preferably not greater than 700 nm, more preferably not greater than 500 nm, more advantageously Way not greater than 300 nm, more preferably not greater than 250 nm, in a further advantageous manner not large more than 200 nm, most advantageously not greater than 150 nm, in particular not exceeding 120 nm, and / or wherein the droplet size d _{50 of} the nanoemulsion is preferably not less than 10 nm, advantageously not less than 25 nm is advantageously not less than 40 nm, in particular does not fall below a value of 60 nm.

The Droplet size becomes preferably at the diluted one Preparation determined by laser diffraction, advantageously by means of Laser diffraction according to Malvern, for example with a Malvern Mastersizer 2000, the dilution advantageously with water, preferably at a ratio of Preparation to water of 1: 500 in Vol .-%.

D ₅₀ is the feature value at which the distribution sum of droplet diameters becomes 0.5 = 50%. For example, the statement "d ₅₀ = a μm" means that 50 (mass)% of the droplets considered have a diameter greater than a μm and 50 (mass)% a smaller diameter than a μm.

advantageously, penetrates the nanoemulsion even faster into the skin and able It, the active ingredients contained even better in deeper skin layers to transport so that these There can develop an increased effect there. Overall, the described advantages of the present invention with respect to Skin, i. the positive regulation of the skin condition, further amplified, if the preparations as an emulsion, preferably as an o / w emulsion, in particular as an o / w nanoemulsion. In particular, the stability of the preparation and also their dispersibility on the skin are further improved, as well as the skin elasticity is further increased, as well the rapidity of onset is further improved. advantageously, can about this embodiment size Amounts of moisture even in deeper skin layers over many Stored hours, preferably up to 24 hours, especially over 24 hours out, so that the Skin very long, after a single application, elastic and stays soft.

advantageously, If desired, the emulsion may also be present as w / o (nano) emulsion is in contrast but an o / w (nano) emulsion. In w / o emulsions fat remains generally directly on the skin and give an occlusive effect (Seal the skin) and protect so they dehydrate. In general, w / o emulsions So leave a greasy film that can be distracting. On the other hand, the moisture in o / w emulsions in the upper skin layers transported and kept in the skin. An occlusion effect is eliminated. Of the Nursing effect of an o / w-based preparation therefore depends very much on the effectiveness of the moisturizing complex especially from the overall formulation, i. the combined Effect of the active complexes used. As the overall formulation in the case of the invention by the reinforcing Interaction of the active complexes leads to increased effectiveness the requirements made of an o / w emulsion more than fulfilled and A seal of the skin is not required.

• i) der Gruppe der barrierestabilisierenden Säuren, vorzugsweise aus Linolsäure, Linolensäure, 12-Hydroxystearinsäure, Stearinsäure, Isostearinsäure, Palmitinsäure, 11-Hydroxypalmitinsäure, Proteinhydrolysatkondensate (z. B. Palmitoylglutaminsäure), Hyaluronsäure und/oder
• ii) aus der Gruppe der α-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, vorteilhafterweise Fruchtsäuren, insbesondere Milchsäure, Citronensäure, Äpfelsäure und/oder Weinsäure, sowie (β-Hydroxycarbonsäuren, vorteilhafterweise Säuren mit zusätzlich konservierenden Charakter wie Ameisensäure, Salicylsäure, Essigsäure. sowie Sulfonsäure- und/oder deren Derivate oder Mischungen aus diesen,
• iii) aus der Gruppe der Aminosäuren und/oder deren Derivate

dann liegt eine bevorzugte Ausführungsform vor.When the acid buffer of the cosmetic preparation buffers in a pH range of 4.0 to 6.0, wherein at least one acid (and / or salt thereof) is contained, which is preferably selected from

• i) the group of barrier-stabilizing acids, preferably from linoleic, linolenic, 12-hydroxystearic, stearic, isostearic, palmitic, 11-hydroxypalmitic, protein hydrolyzate (e.g.
• ii) from the group of α-hydroxycarboxylic acids, advantageously fruit acids, in particular lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid and / or tartaric acid, and (β-hydroxycarboxylic acids, advantageously acids with additional preserving character such as formic acid, salicylic acid, acetic acid and sulfonic acid and / or their Derivatives or mixtures of these,
• iii) from the group of amino acids and / or their derivatives

then there is a preferred embodiment.

acid buffer this embodiment strengthen the advantages of the present invention with respect to the skin, in particular concerning the regulation of the skin condition, advantageously even with atopic skin.

advantageously, acts such an acid buffer synergistic with the natural Buffer system of the skin, consisting essentially of a lactic acid-lactate system, water-soluble Compounds of horny layer, sebum, numerous amino acids formed will, together and overall there is an improved, very effective buffer system for maintaining the pH of the skin. Surprised will also stability The preparation further improves, just as the skin elasticity continues elevated.

It also gives through the specific acid buffer in particular by combination with γ-linolenic acid-containing oils improved, because faster skin-healing effect of the preparation. Already a minor higher pH, for example of 7, causes a disorder of skin-healing Processes and harms even the skin barrier, as, for example, the new formation skin-sealing Lipids in the horny layer is disturbed at a pH of 7. The acid buffer promotes So in conjunction with the other active complexes the skin healing.

Especially it is preferred if the acid buffer formed by 1 to 4, in particular 2 to 4 acids and 2 to 3 salts becomes.

Also it is particularly preferred if the preparation according to the invention 0.3 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 0.7 to 7 wt .-%, in particular 1 up to 3% by weight of acid buffer contains.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the vitamin complex of the preparation according to the invention contains vitamins and / or derivatives thereof and / or their precursors, which are preferably selected from vitamin A, vitamin A acid, vitamin A acetate, vitamin A palmitate, vitamin A C, vitamin C palmitate, vitamin C dipalmitate, vitamin E, vitamin E acetate, palmitate and linoleate, alfacalcidol, calcitriol, colecalciferol, ergocalciferol, transcalcifediol, calciprotriol, calcifediol, vitamin D ₃ , carotene, panthenol, pantothenic acid , Tocopherols, biotin, vitamin B, niacinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl alcohol, tocopherol nicotinate and / or their derivatives, salts or mixtures.

By Supply of skin with vitamins of vitamin complex becomes advantageously, the skin healing further promoted, skin aging on reduces and also the skin moisture further increased. advantageously, just work the previously enumerated Vitamins very good with the substances of the three other active complexes together and lead overall to a reinforced Active effect. Vitamins (derivatives) of this embodiment enhance overall the advantages of the present invention with respect to the skin, in particular concerning the regulation of the skin condition, advantageously is also the skin elasticity further increased.

Especially it is preferred if 3 to 6 vitamins (derivatives) are contained in the preparations according to the invention are.

there it is very particularly preferred if the preparation according to the invention Contains panthenol. The Combination of panthenol as part of the vitamin complex with the other active complexes leads to significantly improved healing of superficial skin lesions. This beneficial combination calms irritated skin especially good and the moisture binding in the horny layer will continue improved, especially in atopic skin.

According to one preferred embodiment contains the preparation according to the invention 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, advantageously 1 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 9 wt .-%, in particular 4 to 8 wt .-% of vitamin complex, based on the whole preparation.

Also it is highly preferred if the preparation according to the invention also allantoin (5-ureidohydantoin) contains. Its keratolytic, epithelizing and thus wound healing The effect is due to the four active complexes of the preparation according to the invention further strengthened. It is particularly advantageous if panthenol and allantoin together in the preparation according to the invention be used, since the wound healing effect is even greater, especially in atopic skin.

If in a preparation according to the invention as a moisture regulator substances are included which are selected from polyols, preferably glycol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, Pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin, inositol, sorbitol, mannitol, Palatinit, maltodextrin, dextrin, cyclodextrin, glucose, fructose, Lactose, mannose, galactose and / or other saccharides, as well as Urea, amino acids and their salts, here preferably glutamic acid, glycine or glutamates, especially arginine pyroglutamate, lactate, vitamin E, lecithin, glucoronic acid, panthenol, Allantoin, ceramides, chondroitin sulfate, sodium acrylate-vinyl alcohol copolymers, Oligopeptides, 2-pyrrolidone, uronic acids, polysilicones, arginines or mixtures thereof, so is another preferred embodiment in front.

advantageously, just act the substances of this embodiment particularly well with the substances of the other three active complexes together and lead overall to an increased effect effect. The stability of the preparation is also surprising further improved and the skin elasticity further increased.

advantageously, is in this embodiment the moisture binding in the horny layer and in deeper Layers of the dermis even further improved, especially what atopic Skin.

According to one preferred embodiment contains the preparation according to the invention 0.1 to 36 wt .-%, advantageously 3 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% of moisture regulator.

Especially it is preferred if, as a moisture regulator, 2 to 12, preferably 3 to 10, in particular 4 to 7 of the moisture-regulating substances contained in the preparation, it being very advantageous if at least one amino acid and glycerol are included.

According to one another preferred embodiment are plant extracts in the preparation according to the invention the Aloe Vera plant [INCI: Aloe Extract]. These wise moisturizing properties. That was it the thickened juice from the leaves of various aloe species (Liliaceae). Preferably, the leaves of Aloe vera are used Aloe barbadensis Miller, Aloe ferox or Aloe vulgaris.

Of the Aloe vera extract shows in combination with the active complexes of inventive preparation a particularly beneficial effect on restless and irritated Skin conditions. Advantageously, the skin is soothed and irritation of the Skin are advantageously greatly relieved by this combination, preferably already after a single application.

advantageously, leads the Combination of aloe vera extract with the active complexes according to the invention to a further improved smoothing effect the skin over several hours. Skin roughness (minor wrinkles and roughness) and skin depth (overall relief of the skin) are positively influenced and there is an overall improvement in the skin surface texture. Due to the further improved skin surface structure results even better protection against external influences, e.g. physical kind. Besides The combination of Aloe-Vera Extract and skin compatibility further improved, especially in atopic skin.

According to one another preferred embodiment of the invention include the natural ones fatty oils the preparation according to the invention such oils, a high content, preferably at least 7 wt .-%, of esterified polyunsaturated fatty acids include, preferably selected from evening primrose oil, Currant seed oil, Borage oil, echium, trichodesma, Black cumin oil, rose hip seed oil, sea buckthorn oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, sesame oil and / or Sunflower oil.

Just these oils, especially the borage oil, to lead in interaction with the other three active complexes in the preparations according to the invention to particularly good results, in particular surprisingly also in terms the skin elasticity. Advantageously, in cooperation with the other three active complexes the viscoelastic behavior of the skin improves unexpectedly. The Skin returns faster, for example, after a provoked deformation back to their starting position. Oils of this embodiment strengthen Overall, the advantages of the present invention. It turns out also here very advantageously very stable preparations. In addition, will the skin healing further promoted.

advantageously, shines the skin, especially atopic skin, after the application despite the oils contained not and feels not greasy, but supple.

According to one preferred embodiment contains the preparation according to the invention at least 3% by weight, preferably at least 5% by weight, advantageously at least 7.5% by weight, even more preferably at least 10 wt .-%, in even more advantageous Way at least 15 wt .-%, in particular at least 20 wt .-% of natural fatty oils, advantageously those with a C-chain distribution of the bound acids of at least 70% C-18 and advantageously iodine numbers of over 95. Preferably, however, a maximum total content of the natural fatty oils of 45% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, in particular 30% by weight not exceeded.

Advantageously, by maintaining the minimum and maximum amounts mentioned, the balance of the skin surface lipids is influenced even more favorably. The features of this embodiment enhance the overall benefits of the present invention, particularly with regard to the atopic Skin.

A preparation according to the invention, in which at least one, preferably at least two skin-tightening Active ingredients, preferably selected from nettle oil, Carrot seed oil, field horsetail Extract (Equisetum arvense), galbanum oil, green tea extract (Camellia oleifera or Camellia sinensis) and / or apricot kernel oil or mixtures thereof it is most advantageous, if at least 0.1% by weight (based on the total preparation) of green tea Extract, nettle oil and / or carrot seed oil are, represents a further preferred embodiment of the invention.

The Presence of these agents enhances the previously described Effect on the viscoelastic behavior of the skin again. Active ingredients of this embodiment strengthen Overall, the advantages of the present invention.

The Presence of green Tea extract in the preparation is also advantageous because this in combination with the active complexes according to the invention to a reinforcement the overall skin calming effect.

If the preparation according to the invention 20 to 80 wt .-%, preferably 30 to 70 wt .-%, in particular 40 contains up to 60% by weight of water, so is also a preferred embodiment. advantageously, preparations with these water contents are particularly tolerated by the skin and Anti-irritant, have a particularly good spreadability and stability. The water contents according to this embodiment strengthen Overall, the advantages of the present invention.

According to one preferred embodiment The invention is the pH of the preparation according to the invention at a temperature of T = 20 ° C no over 7.0, preferably in the range of 4.0 to 6.0, in particular between 4.5 and 5.5. Advantageously, this is a skin-optimal value range. Another advantage of this pH range is that the preparation in this pH range a very good stability, even with long storage, has, preferably supported through the acid buffer.

According to one another preferred embodiment is the preparation according to the invention dye-free. contains the preparation only natural Aromas or is it preferably free of fragrances, so is also a preferred embodiment in front.

If the preparation contains at least one deodorizing agent is so also a preferred embodiment in front. Particularly suitable in this regard are essential oils such as clove oil (eugenol), mint oil (Menthol) and thyme oil (Thymol) or comparable essential oils and farnesol. As a result of the intense inherent odor of these compounds are these preferably but only added in small doses, advantageously in amounts of less than 5 wt .-%, in more advantageous Way less than 3 wt .-%, in particular less than 1 wt .-%.

As has already been said unfolds the preparation of the invention by the interaction of the active complexes contained an enhanced effect, which is greater as by mere Counting up to was expected.

Especially It is advantageous if the 4 active complexes in certain quantities be used.

• a) 0,3 bis 12 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 0,7 bis 7 Gew.-%, insbesondere 1,0 bis 3,0 Säurepuffer
• b) 0,1 bis 15 Gew.-%, vorteilhafterweise 1 bis 12 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 2 bis 9 Gew.-%, insbesondere 4 bis 8 Gew.-% Vitaminkomplex
• c) 0,1 bis 35 Gew.-%, vorteilhafterweise 3 bis 30 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise 5 bis 25 Gew.-%, insbesondere 10 bis 20 Gew.-% Feuchtigkeitsregulans
• d) mindestens 3 Gew.-%, vorteilhafterweise mindestens 5 Gew.-%, vorzugsweise mindestens 7,5 Gew.-%, vorteilhafterweise mindestens 10 Gew.-%, in vorteilhafterer Weise mindestens 15 Gew.-%, insbesondere mindestens 20 Gew.-% natürliche fette Öle vorzugsweise mit einer C-Kettenverteilung der gebundenen Säuren von mindestens 70 % C-18 sowie vorteilhafterweise Jodzahlen von über 95 aufweist.

According to a further preferred embodiment, a preparation according to the invention is included

• a) 0.3 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 0.7 to 7 wt .-%, in particular 1.0 to 3.0 acid buffer
• b) 0.1 to 15 wt .-%, advantageously 1 to 12 wt .-%, preferably 2 to 9 wt .-%, in particular 4 to 8 wt .-% vitamin complex
• c) 0.1 to 35 wt .-%, advantageously 3 to 30 wt .-%, preferably 5 to 25 wt .-%, in particular 10 to 20 wt .-% moisture regulator
• d) at least 3 wt .-%, advantageously at least 5 wt .-%, preferably at least 7.5 wt .-%, advantageously at least 10 wt .-%, more preferably at least 15 wt .-%, in particular at least 20 wt. % natural fatty oils preferably having a C-chain distribution of the bound acids of at least 70% C-18 and advantageously iodine numbers of over 95.

The coincidence of the active complexes in these advantageous proportions leads to a particularly advantageous enhancement of the effects shown, in particular with regard to skin elasticity and lipid supply, and therefore the skin is even more advantageous in use, advantageously also with regard to atopic skin. Surprisingly, these preparations, especially if they are in the form of nanoemulsions, outstandingly stable and distributable, and are characterized by a further improved rapidity of the onset of action.

According to one another preferred embodiment contain the invention Zube preparations tea tree oil, preferably in an amount of at most 1 wt .-%, advantageously of at most 0.7% by weight, more preferably of maximum 0.5 wt .-%, in particular of at most 0.3 wt .-%.

The Advantages of tea tree oil arise from its fresh smell and its deodorizing, antibacterial and antifungal properties. The in the just-mentioned embodiment designated, advantageous amount range for the tea tree oil leads to preparations with more pronounced Stability.

According to one another preferred embodiment contain the preparations according to the invention Ethanol, preferably in an amount of not more than 10 wt .-%, advantageously of at most 6 wt .-%, in a further advantageous manner of maximum 4 wt .-%, in particular of at most 3 wt .-%.

The Ethanol promotes the destruction of pathogenic microorganisms and is used for disinfection.

The inventive preparation contains advantageously also surfactants. According to a preferred embodiment contains the preparation at least two surfactants, advantageously both a hydrophilic as well as a lipophilic surfactant, preferably in a total of at most 25 wt .-%, advantageously of at most 5 wt .-%, in more advantageous Way of at most 4 wt .-%, more preferably at most 3 wt .-%, in particular from at most 2.5 wt .-%, wherein the hydrophilic surfactant is preferably in an amount of at least 0.1% by weight, advantageously at least 0.5% by weight and the lipophilic surfactant preferably in an amount of at least 0.1 wt .-%, advantageously at least 0.3 wt .-% is included.

in the For the purposes of the present invention, the term surfactants is used also the emulsifiers. A hydrophilic surfactant is essentially water soluble, while a lipophilic surfactant is substantially oil-soluble. A possibility offers categorization of surfactants in water or oil soluble also the HLB system. The term HLB value is known to those skilled in the art known. The HLB value is a measure of the water content introduced by Griffin (1950). or oil solubility of predominantly nonionic surfactants and the stability of emulsions. Experimental can be the HLB value z. B. determined by the phenol titration method, by adding the surfactant solution 5% phenol solution to the pulp added. Furthermore, the HLB value (gas) can be chromatographically, by Determination of the dielectric constant or determined colorimetrically. Detailed information and also lists of HLB values of commercial emulsifiers can be found in the relevant literature or in reference works such. B. Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by John Wiley & Sons. The HLB scale ranges in the Rule from 1 to 20. Low HLB substances (3 to 8) are Lipohil and are generally considered good W / O emulsifiers, while substances with higher HLB value (8 to 18) are hydrophilic and act as O / W emulsifiers.

It was found that in the latter embodiment described Tensidkonstellation very advantageous for the stability of the preparations is, in particular for the stability nanoemulsions according to the invention. Advantageously, the amount of surfactants to be used becomes low kept as surfactants under unfavorable Constellations also blocks of the hydrolipid and fat layer if necessary can solve and thus possibly also to a partial loss of the natural Barrier effect of the skin can. In the case of the preparations according to the invention however, a hypothetical negative effect of the surfactants is far over-compensated by the positive interaction of the four active complexes contained, ensure a full supply of the skin and the natural barrier effect significantly support the skin.

To a further preferred embodiment are in the preparation according to the invention contain nonionic surfactants, preferably at least two nonionic Surfactants, advantageously a hydrophilic and a lipophilic nonionic Surfactant, in particular selected from the group of alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkylphenol polyglycol ethers, fatty acid, Fatty amine polyglycol ethers, alkylpolyglycosides, fatty amine N-oxides, long-chain alkyl sulfoxides, silicone-based nonionic surfactants and / or Polymerization products of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide or propylene glycol.

nonionic Surfactants advantageously have compared to other surfactant types in combination with the 4 active complexes of the preparation according to the invention the skin-friendly properties.

Further the presence advantageously affects a hydrophilic one and a lipophilic nonionic surfactant very positive for the stability of the preparations, in particular the stability of the nanoemulsion according to the invention. The spreadability of the preparation on the skin will continue favored. All in all reinforced the surfactant constellation of the latter embodiment the advantages of the present invention.

According to one another preferred embodiment are those in the preparations of the invention contained lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants in a weight ratio of 0.05 to 10, advantageously from 0.1 to 5, in particular of 0.15 to 1 before. The difference of HLB values of lipophilic and hydrophilic Surfactants is advantageously at least 5, in a further advantageous manner at least 6 and in a very advantageous manner at least 7, in particular at least 10th

The lipophilic surfactants preferably have an HLB value of 1 to 7, especially from 3 to about 5. The hydrophilic surfactants are preferably HLB values above 13, especially above 15. Preferred each nonionic surfactants are used, advantageously those which additionally have a thickening effect, in a further advantageous manner Molecular weight over 1000, in particular 5000 have.

It is preferred if all surfactants contained molecular weights above 500, preferably over 1000 and in particular about 10,000 g / mol.

, ABIL ^® WE 09 (INCI: silicone-containing nonionic lipophilic emulsifiers, preferably strongly lipophilic, such as ABIL ^® EM 90 (cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 Dimethicone INCI): Particularly preferred are Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate; Cetyl PEG / PPG -10/1 dimethicone; hexyl laurate), ABIL ^® EM 97 (INCI: bis-PEG / PPG-14/14 Dimethicone, Cyclopentasiloxane), all available from Degussa AG, Germany, or similar devices.

Are also highly preferred PEG-free non-ionic lipophilic emulsifiers, preferably strongly lipophilic, vegetable-based, such as Isolan ^® PDI (INCI: Diisostearoyl Polyglyceryl-3 Dimer dilinoleate), Isolan GI 34 (INCI: Polyglyceryl-4 Isostearate 5), Isolan ^® IS (INCI: Methyl Glucose Isostearate), all available from Degussa AG, Germany, or similar products.

These just described Tensidkonstellationen lead advantageously to excellent stabilized preparations, with just the Nanoemulsions by an extraordinary stability and extraordinary Characterize rapidity of onset. advantageously, So already very low total amounts of surfactant to the preparation very good to stabilize. From a total of 0.8 inclusive Wt .-% surfactant resulting excellent stable preparations. The described Tensidkonstellationen according to the last-mentioned embodiments enable a very good spreadability of the preparation on the skin with a very good penetration into the skin and strengthen overall the advantages of the present invention.

According to one another preferred embodiment contains the preparation as surfactants only nonionic surfactants. As already mentioned, The presence of surfactants in conventional creams can be the most unfavorable Case also have negative effects on the skin. Although in the inventive case a theoretically conceivable disadvantageous surfactant effect by the interaction the active complexes far overcompensated, nevertheless, it is even more advantageous, entirely on more than the nonionic Avoid surfactants to relieve the skin even further. advantageously, a surfactant system according to the invention, which preferably consists of small amounts of the nonionic surfactants described exists without additional Surfactants get along.

According to one another preferred embodiment contains the preparation according to the invention natural or nature identical antioxidants, advantageously in amounts from 0.03 to 8 wt .-%, preferably 0.05 to 5 wt%, and in particular 0.1 to 1% by weight, in particular selected from terpene-containing antioxidants and / or vitamin E (derivatives), preferably in combination with Vitamin C (derivatives). Preferably, the preparation is free from synthetic antioxidants.

Advantageously, it has been found that, in the presence of the natural or nature-identical antioxidants, the skin compatibility of the preparations according to the invention could be improved even more particularly with regard to skin which is particularly prone to irritation. In addition, it has unexpectedly been found that in the presence of the natural or nature identical antioxidants the skin elasticity continues is improved so that it reaches its initial position after a deformation faster. The stability of the preparations is further improved. The natural or nature-identical antioxidants according to this embodiment enhance the advantages of the present invention as a whole, in particular, they further enhance the duration of action of the preparation.

In a preferred embodiment the preparation of the invention is characterized because of that, at least one of the active ingredients contained is antiseptic or at least contains an antiseptic active ingredient.

in the Context of this invention is under the attribute of antiseptic Effectiveness means an effect that enhances the self-regulatory powers of human beings Skin is useful. This efficacy is not in their expression with that of classic germicides or germicidal agents such. As phenols or halogens, with which one z. B. skin u. mucous membranes, Wounds or even medical instruments are treated to asepsis (Germ-free) to achieve, to compare.

The Includes classic antiseptic antimicrobial measures at the place of departure or at the entrance gate of a possible Infection or at the site of infection on the body surface.

A however, such strong effectiveness is preferred in the context of the invention not aimed at, as it undoubtedly helps to eliminate harmful Germs or similar to lead would, but also the natural one Affect human skin flora would.

The particular advantage of antiseptic agents, which can be used according to the invention, results from a synergistic interaction of these substances with the general functional mechanisms of human skin, since these mild antiseptic substances z. B. germs, including harmful germs reduce, but not completely, so to the sterility, destroy. So there are enough germs on the skin that are enough to kill the self-regulatory forces to train and thereby strengthen human skin. By the interaction of the self-regulating forces of the skin with the antiseptic capital the active substances contained in the preparation become the general ones Functional mechanisms of the skin supported. This is just in view on already irritated and / or otherwise damaged skin of great Advantage. For already irritated and / or sensitized and / or otherwise as damaged or even particularly sensitive skin are the self - regulatory powers of the Skin partially unable, albeit temporarily, to ensure skin health on its own. In the synergistic Interaction with the preparations according to the invention and their use according to the invention These self-regulatory powers are supported, trained and strengthened.

On supported this way and trains the preparation according to the invention The natural Skin flora of humans.

Around The natural Does not affect human skin flora, it is very beneficial To exclude such substances as far as possible, although strongly antiseptic are effective, such. Glutaraldehyde, benzalkonium chloride, 8-hydroxyquinoline, Ethacridine, hexetidine, benzoxonium chloride, bibrocathol, gentamicin, Bezoyl peroxide, but at the same time a high allergy potential bergen and irritate the skin and mucous membranes.

unexpectedly For example, compositions of such an embodiment are particularly useful useful if the antiseptic agent is an oil, preferably an essential oil is.

This antiseptic oil is preferably an essential oil selected in particular from the group of Angelica fine - archangelica, Anis - Pimpinella anisum, Benzoin siam - Styrax tokinensis, Cabreuva - Myrocarpus fastigiatus, Cajeput - Melaleuca leucadendron, Cistrose - Cistrus ladaniferus, Copaiba balm - Copaiba reticulata, Costus root - Saussurea discolor, Edeltann needle - Abies alba, Elemi - Canarium luzonicum, Fennel - Foeniculum dulce, Spruce needle - Picea abies, Geranium - Pelargonium graveolens, Ho leaves - Cinnamonum camphora, Immortelle (Strawflower) Helichrysum ang., Ginger extra - Zingiber often., St. John's wort - Hypericum perforatum, jojoba, chamomile German - Matricaria recutita, chamomile blue fine - Matricaria chamomilla, chamomile rom. - Anthemis nobilis, chamomile wild - Ormensis multicaulis, carrot - Daucus carota, mountain pine - Pinus mugho, Lavandin - Lavendula hybrida, Litsea cube ba - (May Chang), Manuka - Leptospermum scoparium, Melissa - Melissa officinalis, Sea pine - Pinus pinaster, Myrrh - Commiphora molmol, Myrtle - Myrtus communis, Neem - Azadirachta, Niaouli - (MQV) Melaleuca quin. viridiflora, Palmarosa - Cymbopogom martini, Patchouli - Pogostemon patchhuli, Peru balsam - Myroxy lon balsamum var. pereirae, Raventsara aromatica, Rosemary - Rosmarinus officinalis, Rosewood - Aniba pink odora, Sage - Salvia officinalis, Horsetail - Equisetaceae, Yarrow extra - Achillea millefolia, Ribwort plantain - Plantago lanceolata, Styrax - Liquidambar orientalis, Tagetes (Marigold) - Tagetes patula, Toloba Balsam - Myroxylon Balsamum L., Virginia Cedar - Juniperus virginiana, Frankincense (Olibanum) - Boswellia carteri, Silver Fir - Abies alba.

such Preparations are even more skin-friendly and the overall effect the preparation is in particular by said essential oil on strengthened wherein advantageously even in very sensitive skin a very good skin compatibility was found.

One Another advantage of the aforementioned essential oils lies in their special multifunctionality, in addition to the described mild antiseptic activity from a variety of other desirable give organoleptic properties attributable to these oils are. It is these oils in most cases an expectorant Assessed effect, as they affect the mucous membranes of the respiratory system to exert a mild, positive stimulus. Furthermore, a desirable Set warmth. Deodorizing, analgesic, circulation-promoting, soothing effects could in connection with the use according to the invention of these designated oils of the Applicant observed and recognized as particularly advantageous become. The organoleptic properties of these oils in the Usually not from the main components, but from the minor od. Trace components shaped, which can often go into the hundreds and sometimes synergistic interact. Another advantage associated with the oils mentioned is the harmonious fragrance and fragrance emanating from them, the in many cases in people to positive feelings leads.

On supported this way the preparation according to the invention not just the natural one Human skin flora, but helps the human organism to additional Advantages just described type.

In front In this background, especially the patchouli is of great advantage for the Subject of the invention and leads to a further improvement of the skin compatibility. Likewise, the rosemary oil is special advantageous.

According to one preferred embodiment is the composition of the invention free from conventional preservatives, especially free of benzoic acid, Benzyl alcohol, butyl paraben, chloroacetamide, chlorhexidine, diazolidinyl urea, Dipropylene glycol, DMDM hydantoin, ethyl paraben, formaldehyde, hexamidine diisoithionate, iodopropynyl butyl carbamate, isothiazolinone, methyl dibromoglutaronitrile, Methylparaben, polyaminopropyl biguanide, propylparaben, sodium benzoate, Butylhydroxytoluene.

It These are substances that, although sometimes only in rare cases, can be allergic. Therefore, it is advantageous to exclude these substances.

The preparations according to the invention can advantageously generally all contain other ingredients commonly used in cosmetic, preferably skin-care, in particular facial cosmetic preparations Find application. Such ingredients as well as the relevant ones Quantity ranges in which these can be used are well-known to the person skilled in the art or he can read the relevant technical literature take, e.g. "Cosmetics, 2nd Edition, W. Umbach, Wiley-VCH, 1995, or Cosmetic Ingredients, Appraisal cosmetic ingredients, Lehr, Reichelt, BoD GmbH Norderstedt, 2003 "or" The cosmetic Preparations, Volume I-III, Domsch, Andreas, publishing house for chemical industry H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, 1992-1994 ".

To potential Ingredients count in addition to active ingredients, the so-called auxiliaries and additives. Also these can be advantageously included in the preparations. Even more advantageous it is, however, if the preparations according to the invention as far as possible are free of additives and additives.

The water is basic material and no auxiliary or additive. Adjuvants are surfactants, emulsifiers and thickeners, the amount of which should preferably be limited in terms of the number and weight fraction. Active substances within the meaning of the invention are preferably all those substances which can be assigned to the abovementioned active complexes, in particular the substances listed by name in this connection. Active ingredients are preferably further those substances such as aloe vera extract, almond oil, green tea extract, carrot seed oil, mint oil, tea tree oil, essential oil such as patchouli, mimetic peptides, Antarcticine ^® , ie such substances on their positive effect in connection with the preparation of the invention the examples given are for illustrative purposes only and are not complete.

When preservative substances are according to a preferred embodiment only active ingredients in the context of the invention, preferably from the selected by name in this document are selected active ingredients, used, such as. As tea tree oil, ethanol or salicylic acid also an additional have conservative character.

Of the total proportion of the additives is preferably not higher than 10% by weight, advantageously not higher than 7% by weight.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparations according to the invention are largely free of auxiliaries and additives, preferably less than 10 wt .-%, advantageously less than 7 wt .-%, more preferably less than 5 wt .-%, in a more advantageous Way less than 3 wt .-%, more preferably less than 1 wt .-%, in particular no auxiliaries, wherein the group of auxiliary substances and additives preferably comprises the following substances:
Acrylates, especially C _10-30 alkyl acrylate cross-polymer, alpha-dodecyl-omega-hydroxy-poly (oxyethylene) -2, aluminum, aluminum stearate, oatmeal, behenyl alcohol, benzoic acid, benzyl alcohol, butylhydroxytoluene, butyl paraben, C _12-15 alkyl alcohol benzoate, carbomer, Cera alba , Cera microcristallina, Ceresin, PEG-12 Cetyl Ether, Ethoxylated Cetyl Stearyl Ether, PEG-6 Cetyl Stearyl Ether, Cetyl Stearyl Isononanoate, Cetyl Stearyl Octanoate, PEG-20 Cetyl Ether, Cetyl Alcohol, Dyes, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Oleic Acid Ester, Dicaprylyl Ether, Diethylhexyl Butamidotriazone, Dipentaerythrityl Hexacaprylate / Hexacaprate, Dipropylene Glycol, EDTA, Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate, disodium phosphate, corn powder, DMDM hydantoin, ethoxy diglycol, ethyl paraben, glyceryl stearate citrate, stearic acid glycol ester, hexamidine diiso-dionate, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate, PEG-4 lauryl ether, PEG- 9 lauryl ether, magnesium stearate, magnesium sulfate, methoxy PEG-22 dodecyl glycol copolymer, methyl dibromoglutaronitrile, methyl paraben, monoisopropylamine laureth sulfate, myristate myristyl, nitrilotriacetate, octyl triazone, ozokerite, paraffin wax, liquid paraffin, PEG-120 methyl glucose dioleate, PEG-150, PEG-2 hydrogenated castor oil, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-4, PEG-40 Castor Oil, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-45 / Dodecyl Glycol Copolymer, PEG-5 Lanolate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-7 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-8, PEG -150 distearate, PEG dicocoate, PEG monococoate, pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, phenyl trimethicone, poloxamer 101 (PE / PP block polymer), poloxamer 124, polyaminopropyl biguanide, polydecene, diglycerol caprate, diglycerol dipolyhydroxystearate, triglycerol diisostearate, triglycerol methyl glucose distearate, potassium phosphate, hexadecene copolymer, propyl gallate , Propylene glycol octanoate decanoate, propylene glycol, propyl paraben, Silicon dioxide, sodium benzoate, sodium bicarbonate, sodium C14-16 olefin sulfonate, Natriumcarbomer, sodium cetylstearyl sulfate, sodium cocoamphoacetate, Natriumcococylisethionat, Sodium Corn Starch octenylsuccinate, sodium hydroxymethylglycinate, sodium laureth sulfate, sodium lauryl sulfate, sodium, Natriumphenylbenzimidazolsulfonat, sodium polyacrylate, Isostearinsäuresorbitanester, sorbitan stearate, steareth-20, stearyl, tridecyl, tri decyltrimellitate, triisostearin, zinc sulfate.

The as far as possible, in particular complete absence of auxiliary and additives is advantageous because these substances are substantially no or only a relatively small physiological Have effect. In many cases represent the auxiliaries only a ballast, which is the Skin burdened by his presence, without really positive to serve, for. B. in that the Skin completely covered with fats (for example with paraffin, vaseline, Waxes, etc.). According to the invention dispenses with such masking effects, instead a lipid supply takes place the skin over natural oils. In the worst case Fall will be the natural ones Functions of the skin even negatively influenced by the excipients. In any case, must the excipients are broken down by the skin.

According to a further preferred embodiment, the preparation according to the invention therefore has an α-value of greater than 0.5, preferably greater than 0.6, advantageously greater than 0.7, very advantageously greater than 0.75, in a particularly advantageous manner greater than 0.8 , even more advantageously greater than 0.85, more preferably greater than 0.87, wherein the α-value is given by formula (I) α = amount of active substance / (total amount of the preparation - amount of water), formula (I) wherein the quantity is based on wt .-%.

If this constellation according to this embodiment is given, the advantages of the present invention further strengthened especially as regards the rapidity of the onset of action.

there is below the amount of active ingredient, the mass of those ingredients to understand that no auxiliaries, no additives and no Are water.

According to one another preferred embodiment of the invention, the preparations contain small pigment particles, in particular of zinc oxide, zirconium oxide and / or titanium oxide. Such Pigment particles serve the skin protection, since they in particular UV rays reflect. In particular, the zinc oxide also acts slightly disinfecting and skin-tightening. The particle size of the pigment particles is preferably in the range 100 to 300 nm, advantageously 150 to 250 nm, especially 200-250 nm. The refractive index of the pigment particles is preferably at least before 2, in particular he 2 to 3. A hypothetical whitening on the skin, evoked through the pigment particles, is then advantageously no longer perceptible when said particle size criterion and / or the refractive index criterion be respected. Preferably, in the compositions of the invention about 0.05 to 6 wt .-%, preferably 0.1 to 3 wt .-%, in particular 0.5 to 2 wt .-% of the small pigment particles.

It was found that the small pigment particles the advantages of the present invention further strengthen. The stability the preparation is improved. Especially if the preparation is present as a nanoemulsion, results in an excellent dispersibility The preparation and the pigment particles become very uniform the skin deposited so that they, even if the preparation absolutely only very little pigment particles contains nevertheless ensure optimal UV protection. Due to the very uniform deposition the pigment particles on the skin advantageously results in a very even skin and fine lines and wrinkles are no longer visible.

preferred Preparations have an apparent viscosity of from about 3,000 to about 200,000 mPas. For example, preferred formulations have an apparent viscosity from about 3,000 to about 15,000 mPas, preferably from about 6,000 to about 9000 mPas. The apparent viscosity can be determined by the usual methods be determined. The viscosity The preparation is measured after looking at the preparation at least 24 hours since preparation of the preparation under conditions from 25 ° C ± 1 ° C and at Ambient pressure has stabilized. The apparent viscosity is at a temperature of the composition of 25 ° C ± 1 ° C after 30 seconds spindle rotation measured.

According to one preferred embodiment contains the preparation according to the invention also thickeners, preferably in the form of thickening surfactants, in particular fatty alcohol (derivative) s. Less preferred, but also suitable are fatty acids and silicone oil derivatives.

advantageously, can be contained in the preparations and peptides. Peptides exist from individual amino acids. In this case, oligopeptides (2 to 10 amino acids) and polypeptides (10 to 100 amino acids) distinguished. The amino acid sequence (= Primary structure) and the three-dimensional spatial Arrangement of the chain (secondary and tertiary structure) determine the function of the peptide.

preferred Peptides are mimetic peptides. Mimetic peptides are skin-identical Peptides or peptides that occur in the human body. In the organism fulfill the oligo- and polypeptides important tasks, for example as Hormones (peptide hormones) or as neurotransmitters or neuromodulators (neuropeptides). Particularly preferred are mimetic hexapeptides (six amino acids).

One example for a particularly preferred mimetic hexapeptide is collaxyl, available through the IMPAG GmbH, Offenbach, Germany.

The INCI name for Collaxyl is: Water (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Hexapeptide-10. The structure of the synthetic peptide collaxyl is congruent with a section of the amino acid sequence, which is found in human collages IV and XVII. Collages IV and XVII are important proteins of the basement membrane and therefore dermo-epidermal Connection of great Importance. Collaxyl also shows significant effects on the collagen synthesis of the extracellular medium (ECM) and on the regeneration and differentiation of the epidermis. Firming and regeneration of the skin from the inside in turn leads to improved Skin elasticity.

However, other mimetic peptides can advantageously also be used, in particular the commercially available products with the INCI names Palmitoyl Oligopeptide, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-3, Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-2, Acetyl Hexapeptide-1, Acetyl Hexapeptide-3, Copper Tripeptide-1, Hexapeptide-1, Hexapeptide-2, MEA-Hydrolyzed Silk. Derivatives of sericin and fibroin may also be used with advantage, typical examples of which are the following products available under the INCI names: Ethyl Ester of Hydrolyzed Silk and Hydrolyzed Silk PG-Propyl Methylsilanediol.

Another example of a most preferred mimetic peptide is Argireline ^®, available from Lipotec SA, Barcelona Spain.

The INCI name for Argireline is: acetyl hexapeptide-3.

acetyl Hexapetide-3 is a non-toxic alternative to botulinum neurotoxins ("Botox"). The active ingredient reduces excess catecholamine and affects the formation of the important for neurotransmission Snare complex. In this way, the active ingredient reduces with regular use significantly the depth preferably of such wrinkles, which frequent Muscle tension especially on the forehead and around the eyes arise.

The amino acid sequence was mimicked at Argireline at the N-terminal end of SNAP-25. Argireline also inhibits Ca ²⁺ -dependent neurotransmitter release in synapses. Argireline reduces muscle activity, while Botox paralyzes muscle activity. Advantageously, the skin thereby obtains the possibility to regenerate particularly well by supplying the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention. The pleat depth is thereby reduced by up to 50% and even further. The advantage in connection with the preparation according to the invention is that wrinkles preferably only occur with considerable delay as a result of the interaction with the active complexes, and in particular do not even arise at all. This is due to the interaction of acetyl hexapetide-3 with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention.

According to one preferred embodiment According to the invention, the preparations contain at least one mimetic Peptide.

The Mimetic peptides, in particular acetyl hexapetide-3, are preferred in total amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-% based on the total Preparation included. Total amounts of 0.005 to 5 wt .-%, in particular from 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are very particularly preferred.

advantageously, strengthen the mimetic peptides the advantages of the preparation according to the invention even further, especially the elasticity of the skin.

Advantageously, Antarcticine ^®, INCI name is in the preparations: [pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract] included, available from Lipotec SA, Barcelona Spain. This ingredient comes from an Antarctic bacterium. The isolated glycoprotein reduces wrinkles by stimulating the regeneration of collagen I and IV, elastin, and the growth of fibroblasts. In addition, it promotes the cohesion of prickle and basal layers. Advantageously, it provides by the interaction with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention even further improved skin protection even in extremely dry and cold conditions. This is especially true when Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is used together with acetyl hexapetide-3 in the preparations of the invention.

In the preparations according to the invention Pseudoalteromonas Ferment Extract is preferably present in amounts of 0.001 to 10 wt .-% based on the total preparation. Quantities of 0.005 to 5, in particular 0.01 to 3 wt .-%, are quite particularly preferred.

The Preparation of emulsions, including nanoemulsions, is known to those skilled in the art known and he can use the relevant literature; e.g. "The cosmetic preparations, Volume I-III, Domsch, A., publisher for Chemical Industry H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, 1992-1994 ".

One Another object of the present invention is a method for the preparation of a preparation according to the invention, wherein at such a process, the starting mixture comprising at least Water and the 4 active complexes before emulsification preferably with a thickening agent, in particular fatty alcohol and / or nonionic Silicone surfactant is added and pre-emulsified with a stirrer. The Fine emulsification takes place in a 2.

Step, why this mixture a high-pressure homogenizer at least 400 bar, in particular at least 600 bar and at a temperature from below 50 ° C, preferably below 46 ° C supplied becomes.

For the high-pressure homogenization preferably 1 to 5 passes are provided, preferably 2 to 4, so that there is a further improved stability.

advantageously, can be very stable emulsions, in particular Produce nanoemulsions. In particular, the thus prepared Nanoemulsions are not only of outstanding stability, but also have excellent dispersibility on the skin, as well an excellent penetration in the skin.

One Another object of the invention is a product consisting of an application device, preferably a spray applicator and a preparation according to the invention.

One Another object of the invention is a preparation according to the invention soaked substrate.

One Another object of the invention is the use of the preparations according to the invention to improve the skin's vitality.

there it is strong according to the invention preferred, not only with regard to the latter use, but on the entire invention, when the preparation of the invention natural γ-linolenic acid sources contains preferably hemp oil, Borage oil, Evening primrose oil, that seed oil black currant, echium oil, trichoderma oil and / or Black cumin oil as γ-linolenic acid source. The seed oils of another Species from the families of Boraginaceae, Scrophulariaceae, Onagraceae and / or Saxifragaceae are also preferably used as γ-linolenic acid sources. This is most advantageous with regard to the elasticity of the skin Borage oil.

The natural γ-linolenic acid in the form the o.g. oils For example, borage and evening primrose oil engages actively in the metabolism and especially in the prostaglandin synthesis and thus influences the Skin condition positive, in combination with the active complexes of the preparation according to the invention this positive influence is intensified and reinforced as well the natural γ-linolenic acid in the form the o.g. oils the effect of the other active complexes. The capillary blood flow is improved, the natural Hydratationsvermögen increased, the dermal fatigue stimulated and the skin healing, in particular the healing of fine cracks on the skin surface, promoted.

One Another object of the invention are molded articles which contain a preparation according to the invention, for peroral application.

Under moldings In this context, especially tablets, dragees and Capsules understood which are suitable for peroral application.

tablets are prepared by mixing powder mixtures or granules, which the preparation according to the invention at least partially contain under (high) pressure in a mold presses. Dragees are tablet cores that have a coating, preferably digestible Plastic materials are provided. The production of tablets, Capsules and dragees are familiar to the skilled person or he can do this the relevant ones Literature or reference works such as Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology by John Wiley & Sons.

at the capsules are preferred soft gelatin capsules, in particular in Shape round or egg-shaped uniform Hollow body. These contain the preparation according to the invention. Although the moldings are highly preferred, the preparation of the invention are suitable also in flowable form (Drops and juices) for peroral application.

• – Tocomix L70 = Mischung aus alpha-, beta-, gamma-, delta- Tocopherol in Sonnenblumenöl (Tocopherolgehalt 70 Gew.-%) ex Jan Dekker Nederland B.V.
• – Dehydol LS2 DEO N = C_12-14-Fettalkohol + 2-EO ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH
• – Eumulgin B2/B3 = Gemisch aus 50 Gew.-% Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO und 50 Gew.-% Cetylstearylalkohol + 30-EO jeweils ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH
• – Lanette O = C₁₆-Fettalkohol ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH

The following preparation according to the invention was prepared in a high-pressure homogenizer. It is a nanoemulsion. The droplet size d ₅₀ is 180 nm.

• Tocomix L70 = mixture of alpha-, beta-, gamma-, delta- tocopherol in sunflower oil (tocopherol content 70% by weight) ex Jan Dekker Nederland BV
• Dehydol LS2 DEO N = C _12-14 fatty alcohol + 2-EO ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH
• - Eumulgin B2 / B3 = mixture of 50 wt .-% Cetylstearylalkohol + 20 EO and 50 wt .-% Cetylstearylalkohol + 30-EO ex ex Cognis Germany GmbH
• - Lanette O = C ₁₆ fatty alcohol ex Cognis Deutschland GmbH

These Preparation was very stable, even under adverse conditions, eg. B. in storage over 1 week at 50 ° C the preparation was unchanged stable, also after centrifugation at a centrifugal acceleration of 36000 g (at 20 ° C, Duration: 3 minutes) and 15000 g (at 40 ° C, duration: 3 minutes) was the preparation unchanged stable.

The Effect of this preparation according to the invention was against a high quality commercially available facial care product.

In this comparative product it was "5% Urea Face Cream" brand Eucerin ^® from Beiersdorf.

"5% urea Face cream "is also an O / W emulsion. It is intended for the care of dry facial skin. She raises according to manufacturer statement fast and long lasting the moisture binding capacity of Skin, reduces tension and absorbs very quickly and contains no fragrances and dyes. "5% urea Face cream "is suitable according to the manufacturer, especially for preventive use in constitutional, environmental or occupational forms drier Skin and is also for therapy-accompanying care in all dermatoses like ichthyosis, psoriasis, eczema, eczema.

Therefore was "5% Urea Face Cream "as representative Comparison to the preparation according to the invention selected. The comparative product was acquired in April 2004 in the trade. It contains the following Ingredients (INCI): Aqua • Urea • Glycerol • Triisostearin • Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearates • Cyclomethicone • Dimethicone • Caprylic / Capric Triglycerides • cetyl Alcohol • Sodium Lactates • glyceryl Stearates • Biosaccharides Gum-1 • Benzyl Alcohol • PEG-40 Stearate Methylparaben • Lactic Acid • Lanolin Alcohol

These ingredients belong to the following active complexes: Acid Buffer: Lactic acid Feuchtigkeitsregulans: Urea, Glycerin, Biosaccharides Gum-1, Sodium Lactate (Note: Sodium Lactate is also a weak buffer) Hautfettung / emollient: Triisostearin, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, cyclomethicone, dimethicone, caprylic / capric triglyceride, lanolin alcohol preservation: Methylparaben, Benzyl Alcohol emulsifiers: PEG-40 Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate, Bodying: Cetyl Alcohol

Of the Difference to the preparation according to the invention is thus in the active complexes: the vitamin complex according to the invention, consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or Vitamin precursors are completely missing. Furthermore, the lipid supply is different. The active complex of the preparation according to the invention from at least 3% by weight of natural fatty oils, the iodine numbers of over 95 and preferably more than 70% C-18 fatty acids significantly from the skin fatliquoring components in "5% urea Face cream ".

The Cooperation of the individual active complexes according to the constellation according to the invention now leads to an improved overall effect in the sense of an optimal full supply of the skin. Only if all 4 active complexes of the invention at the same time in a preparation and contain at least 8 active ingredients and thus interact with the application unfolds Himself superior Spectrum.

This becomes apparent from the following investigations:

a) moisture content of the skin

The influence of the preparation according to the invention and of "5% urea face cream" on the moisture content of the skin after a single use in comparison was investigated The influence of the single application on skin moisture was examined on the forearm of 20 subjects The skin moisture was measured by means of a corneometer (CM 825, Courage & Khazaka Electronic GmbH, Cologne, Germany) before administration and ½, 1, 2, 4 6, 8 and 24 hours after the application in comparison The results are shown on the drawing sheet 1/1 in 1 shown. In this 1 the starting differences were compared. The starting point differences take into account the different starting values of the individual subjects. It was found that the preparation of the invention compared to the area treated with "5% urea face cream" led at all times to a further improvement of the skin moisture Even after a period of 24 hours after application, the skin moisture was improved.

b) fat content of the skin

The Measurement was carried out with the Sebumeter SM 810 (COURAGE + KHAZAKA ELECTRONIC GMBH, Cologne, Germany). The measuring time (pressure time) on the skin was 30 seconds at one even pressure of 3 N at the delivery point on the skin. The influence of the application on the fat content of the skin was examined on the forearm of 6 subjects, All subjects had atopic skin.

The Septum levels were measured before the first application and after 4 weeks of application certainly. The preparation was over 4 weeks daily in the morning in a defined amount applied to the forearm on 1 test area.

Of the Fat content of the skin, for the natural one Protection was important when using the preparation according to the invention on the 4 weeks more clearly in all subjects than when using 5% urea Face Cream " as the following tables prove. Advantageously, the shone Skin was not feeling well despite the good supply of fat, but not greasy. The participants, who all had atopic skin, also reported one excellent compatibility the preparation according to the invention.

c) elasticity of the skin (Torsion)

The elasticity measurements were carried out with the DTM 310 torsion device (Dia-Stron, England). With a probe weight of 100 g, the measurement was carried out with the following parameters: Gap size: 1 mm torque: 10mNm Twist in Time: 5 sec. Twist off time: 5 sec. cycles: 1

Of the The subject's forearm was during the measurement was stored at right angles to the upper arm, the palms showed up. The measuring point was plan, without hair. With a marked band, that with a Ring was attached to the middle finger of the subject, the measuring point could at each time of measurement be determined exactly.

Of the Quotient Ur / Ue is used as a yardstick for the skin elasticity uses and describes the elastic function (Literature: EEMCO Guidance to the in vivo Assessment of Tensile Functional Properties of the skin. Luis Rodrigues, EEMCO Group, Skin Pharmacol Appl Skin Physiol 2001; 14: 52-67). Ue is the initial extensibility / deformation the skin (Immediate Skin Extensibility) and ur the initial one Skin Recovery / Recovery (Immediate Skin Recovery). In an improvement the skin elasticity Ur / Ue should get bigger.

As clarify the following figures, improved the elasticity of the skin with the preparation according to the invention treated skin stronger than those treated with the Urea 5% face cream.

The Values in parentheses correspond to untreated skin. Both after 90 minutes as well as after 180 minutes the skin elasticity was in the case the preparation of the invention better (each higher Ur / Ue).

The Values indicate the average value resulting from measurements 10 people, with each measurement repeated 4 times on each person has been.

All The above examples have shown that the preparation according to the invention as a result of the interaction of their 4 specific active complexes an overall improved effect over a representative one selected, high quality commercially available facial care product reached. The improved effect affects skin hydration and fat content and skin elasticity. The composition of the invention essentially offers the skin with its 4 active complexes a complete spectrum their own natural Components and enables thereby a best possible Full skin care from the outside. The interaction of the 4 specific active complexes allows a total a maximum of care up to the support of skin healing as on Individual examples concerning psoriasis, atopic dermatitis, sunburn, scars found has been.

Claims (17)

Skin cosmetic preparation containing at least contains eight active ingredients in a total amount of at least 20 wt .-% and the following active complexes comprises: a) Acid buffer consisting of at least one acid and a salt b) vitamin complex consisting of at least two vitamins, vitamin derivatives and / or vitamin precursors c) Moisturizer consisting of at least two non-ionic drugs d) at least 3% by weight of natural fatty oils which Iodine numbers of over 95 have. Preparation according to claim 1, characterized in that that she as an emulsion. Preparation according to one of claims 1 or 2, characterized that the natural fatty oils such oils include a high content of esterified polyunsaturated fatty acids include, preferably selected from evening primrose oil, Currant seed oil, Borage oil, echium, trichodesma, Black cumin oil, rose hip seed oil, sea buckthorn oil, wheat germ oil, apricot kernel oil, almond oil, hemp oil, linseed oil, sesame oil and / or Sunflower oil. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 3, characterized in that Contains plant extracts of the aloe vera plant. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 4, characterized in that contains at least one mimetic peptide. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized that she natural or nature-identical antioxidants. Preparation according to one of Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it has an α-value greater than 0.5, the α-value being given by formula (I) α = amount of active ingredient / (total amount of the preparation - amount of water) (formula (I)) , The quantity is based on wt .-%. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 7, characterized in that at least a skin tightening agent, preferably selected from Nettle oil, Carrot seed oil, field horsetail, galbanum oil, apricot kernel oil and / or Borage oil or mixtures of these, is included. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized that she a minimum content of oils of 8% by weight. Preparation according to one of claims 1 to 8, characterized that she Contains 20 to 80 wt .-% of water. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 10, characterized in that Tea tree oil contains. Preparation according to one of the preceding claims 1 to 11, characterized in that at least two surfactants are included. Preparation according to claim 12, characterized in that that non-ionic Surfactants are included. Product consisting of an application device and a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 13. Substrate, characterized in that it has a with a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 13 soaked substrate is. Moldings, containing a preparation according to any one of claims 1 to 13 for peroral Application. Use of the preparation according to one of claims 1 to 13 for improving skin elasticity.