CZ20013637A3 - Cosmetic preparation providing good resistance and containing a copolymer with structural unit of acid, process of its preparation and use - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition comprises a film-forming polymer (I) where: (a) the material is formed by drying an aqueous or alcoholic solution of (I) at ambient temperature and (b) (I) comprises at least one unsaturated acid monomer having an acid number above 82. Cosmetic composition comprises a film-forming polymer (I) where: (a) the material formed by drying an aqueous or alcoholic solution of (I) at ambient temperature and 50% relative humidity has a breaking elongation of at least 160%, an instantaneous recovery of 25-70% after 150% elongation and a 300-second recovery of 30-100% after 150% elongation; and (b) (I) comprises at least one unsaturated acid monomer having an acid number above 82. Independent claims are also included for the following: (1) an aerosol device containing the composition; (2) a process for producing a film-forming polymer comprising 10-50 wt.% hydrophilic monomer units, 20-50 wt.% hard monomer units and 30-70 wt.% soft monomer units, comprising polymerizing the hydrophilic monomer(s) and polymerizing the product with a mixture of the hard and soft monomers, polymerization being effected in an alcohol or aqueous alcohol solvent at 60-90 degrees C in the presence of a radical initiator; (3) a film-forming polymer produced by the process of (2); (4) a cosmetic composition comprising the polymer of (3).

Description

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COSMETIC PRODUCT FOR GOOD RESISTANCE AND CONTAINING A COPOLYMER WITH A STRUCTURAL UNIT OF ACID, METHOD OF MANUFACTURE AND USE

Technical field

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one polymer (A) having characteristic properties. The invention also relates to a method of shaping or maintaining hair by means of the composition and also to its use in the formulation of hairstyles, such as lacquers, sprays or foams for maintaining or shaping the hairstyle.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

Among the most widespread hair fixation products on the market are aerosol or pump spray spray formulations, such as lacquers, sprays or foams, mainly consisting of a solution most commonly alcoholic or hydroalcoholic and film-forming polymer soluble in water or alcohol, mixed with various cosmetic adjuncts.

However, these hair formulations, such as foams, gels, and in particular sprays and aerosol lacquers designed to maintain the shape of the hair do not yet allow the hairstyle to withstand a variety of natural movements such as walking, head movements or wind shocks in a satisfactory manner.

The polymers used to formulate these hair compositions are film-forming polymers of anionic, amphoteric or nonionic, which result in films having a more or less hard and brittle nature.

When the polymer is too brittle, the fracture elongation measured on the film is small, i.e. generally less than 2%, and the hairstyle resistance is not guaranteed over time.

To improve this problem, these polymers have already been bonded to plasticizers and a flexible and non-brittle coating has been obtained. However, these films are deformable and supple, i.e. they only have very little of their original shape after deformation. If the resistance of the hairstyle is improved, it is still far from satisfactory as the shape of the hairstyle changes over time.

More satisfactory results in terms of resistance have been obtained with compositions comprising a combination of film-forming polymers such as vinylcaprolactam and acrylic polymer. Yet these products do not yet provide complete satisfaction because the hair loses some of its natural cosmetic properties. In addition, it would be desirable to increase the fixation capacity.

Indeed, the polymers currently used in hairstyle compositions may have the disadvantage of being poorly removed during shampooing.

Accordingly, cosmetic maintenance and / or hair styling compositions that provide hair growth, in addition to durable firming, have good cosmetic properties, in particular good combing, softness and a pleasant and natural appearance, and which are more effective than the prior art compositions as a criterion removing them when shampooing.

In a surprising and unexpected way, the applicant has discovered that it is possible to solve the technical problems mentioned above by using specific polymers.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

The present invention provides a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable environment, at least one film-forming polymer (A) selected such that the mass obtained by drying the polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and 50% relative humidity has a mechanical profile defined at least:

(a) an elongation at break (s _r ) greater than or equal to 160%;

(b) an instantaneous recovery of length (K) of from 25 to 70% after elongation of 150%; (c) an instantaneous recovery of length (R 50) of 300 seconds from 25 to 70% after elongation of 150%;

a film-forming polymer (A) comprising at least one monomer having an unsaturated acid structural unit having an acid number greater than 82.

Another object of the invention is a method of creating and maintaining a hairstyle, which comprises using the composition.

Yet another object of the invention is the use of the composition for the manufacture of cosmetic compositions, in particular hair compositions intended to maintain or form a hairstyle.

A further object of the invention is a process for the production of film-forming polymers and cosmetic compositions containing these film-forming polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, a film obtained by drying at an ambient temperature (22 + 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity of 50% ± 5% is understood to be a film obtained under these conditions from a mixture of 6% active material (ma) polymer A with ethanol; With water, the amount of blend is adapted to obtain a film thickness of 500 ± 50 µm in a Teflon matrix. Drying is carried out until the film weight ceases to increase, which is approximately 12 days. Polymers A soluble or partially soluble in ethanol are tested in ethanol. Other polymers are tested in water in soluble or dispersed form.

For the purposes of the present invention, the magnitude of the elongation at break and the magnitude of the instantaneous recovery of length are evaluated by the experiments described below.

• · · · · · ·

For drawing tests, the film is cut into rectangular test pieces of 80 mm length and 15 mm width.

The experiments are carried out on apparatus marketed under the name Llovd, reference LR5K, or apparatus marketed under the name Zwick, under the same temperature and humidity conditions for drying, i.e. at a temperature of 22 ± 2 ° C and a relative humidity of 50 + 5%.

The test pieces are elongated at a speed of 20 mm / mn and the distance between the jaws is 50 ± 1 mm.

To determine the instantaneous recovery of length (R,), proceed as follows:

- the test piece is extended by 150% (ε ^), ie 1,5 times its initial length (lo)

- the tension is released by introducing a return speed equal to the elongation rate of 20 inm / rnn and, after returning to zero load (s,), the elongation of the test piece is measured as a percentage.

The instantaneous recovery of length in% (R,) is expressed by the following formula:

To determine an instantaneous recovery of up to 300 seconds, the test piece is held at zero voltage for 300 seconds in addition after undergoing a previous operation, and the magnitude of percent elongation (sjoo) is measured.

The instantaneous recovery of up to 300 seconds in% (R _t ) is expressed by the following formula:

R300 ((κικ3χ-Cji10)) / (κκίί) X 100

In the compositions of the invention, one or more film-forming polymers (A) are preferably present in concentrations of from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. % and preferably from 0.25 to 10 wt. based on the total weight of the composition.

Suitably, the film-forming polymer (A) is selected from those containing at least one unsaturated carboxylic or sulfonic acid among their monomers.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer (A) contains a cyrboxylic acid structural unit, in particular acrylic or methacrylic acid, as the structural acid unit.

Preferably, the acid number is from 82 to 235, more preferably from 90 to 190, and most preferably from 100 to 130.

Suitably, the elongation at break (s _r ) is between 160 and 10,000%.

Preferably, one (or more) of the film-forming polymers (A) are soluble in an aqueous or aqueous alcoholic medium. One (or more) film-forming polymers (A) may be completely or partially neutralized.

The polymers of this invention can be made in an unrestricted manner by carrying out the following operations in an alcoholic or aqueous-alcoholic solvent environment in the presence of a free radical initiator at a temperature of from 60 ° C to 90 ° C;

- first monomers (i) are fused with one or more structural hydrophilic units to obtain a polymer comprising one or more structural hydrophilic units;

- further polymerizing the thus obtained polymer comprising one or more structural hydrophilic units with a mixture of hard monomers (ii) and soft monomers (iii) to obtain a film-forming polymer;

monomers (i), (ii) and (iii) used in the following proportions defined by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers in the film-forming polymer:

- 10 to 50% of monomers (i) with one or more structural hydrophilic units;

20 to 50% of hard monomers (ii), and

- 30 to 70% of soft monomers (iii).

For the purposes of the present invention, a monomer with one or more structural hydrophilic units is understood to mean monomers with one or more structural units of an acid or mono- and / or dicarboxylic acids containing C3 to C8 carbon atoms, such as mainly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, itaconic acid especially acrylic acid.

By hard monomers is meant the methacrylates of linear C1-C3 alkyls, C8-C8 cyclic and branched, selected among said methacrylates which are formed by polymerization as described in Chimie Macromoleculaire - G.Champetier - Edition Hermann, homopolymer having a glass transition temperature greater than 50 ° C. Methyl methacrylate is particularly preferred as the hard monomer.

By soft monomers is meant linear acrylates containing C 1 to C 12 carbon atoms, cyclic ones containing C 8 to C 12 carbon atoms. and branched carbon atoms selected among said acrylates which are formed by polymerization as described in Chimie Macromoleculaire G.Champetier - Edition Hermann, a homopolymer whose glass transition temperature is greater than 25 ° C. Methyl acrylates and isobutyl acrylates are particularly preferred as the soft monomer.

Suitably the monomers (i), (ii) and (iii) are prepared in the following proportions by weight relative to the total weight of the monomers:

15 to 30% of monomers (i) with one or more structural hydrophilic units;

25 to 40% of hard monomers (ii), and

- 35 to 55% of soft monomers (iii).

The film-forming polymer obtained by polymerizing monomers (i), (ii) and (iii) has a molecular weight of suitably from 40,000 to 150,000 and most preferably from 80,000 to 110,000.

Preferably, 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanoylperoxy) -2,5 dimethylhexane is used as the free radical initiator.

The ratio of the free radical initiator is suitably from 0.6 to 2% by weight. based on the weight of the monomers, and more preferably 1.1%.

The solvent used to carry out the process of the invention is suitably ethanol.

The solvent ratio is preferably from 40 to 60 wt. based on the total weight of the monomers.

According to a particularly suitable method according to the invention, the polymerization is carried out at 78 [deg.] C. under a reflux of ethanol whose concentration is from 30 to 60% and suitably 50% according to the following protocol:

firstly, acrylic acid with 18 to 20% of the total amount of initiator is introduced into the reactor, the introduction time being from 20 to 45 minutes and suitably 30 minutes ,;

- polymerize at 78 ° C for 15 to 45 minutes and suitably for 30 minutes;

introducing into the reactor a mixture of hard and soft monomers with 80 to 82% of the total amount of initiator, the introduction time being from 1 hour to 2 hours and suitably 1 hour 30 minutes;

- allow 3 to 4 hours of extra polymerization to ensure complete consumption of monomers;

- dilute the reaction medium with ethanol to obtain a film-forming polymer of 20% concentration.

A further object of the invention relates to film-forming polymers obtainable in accordance with the process for preparing the film-forming polymers of the invention.

In the compositions according to the invention, the cosmetically suitable medium is preferably formed from water or a plurality of cosmetically acceptable solvents, such as alcohols or water-solvent mixtures (solvents), these solvents being suitably C1-C4 alcohols.

These alcohols include ethanol, isopropanol, and the like. Ethanol is particularly suitable.

The compositions of the invention may also contain at least one additional agent selected from thickeners, anionic, nematic, cationic, or cationic; amphotemimi surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins, fixation or non-fixation anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric polymers, mineral, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides or linear, volatile or volatile silicas, volatile , modified or not, and all other adjuncts conventionally used in cosmetic compositions intended primarily for application to the hair.

Preferably, a silicone-containing anionic polymer is used as an additive or not.

Of course, one of ordinary skill in the art will appreciate the choice of one or more possible compositions to be added to the composition of the invention so that the beneficial properties attributed to the composition of the invention are not or substantially not altered by the intended addition.

These compositions may take various forms, such as lotions, gels, lotions, creams, foams, and may be applied, in particular, from pump bottles or aerosol containers to ensure application of the composition in a sprayed or foam form. These treatment forms are mentioned, for example, when we wish to obtain a spray, a lacquer or a foam for strengthening or maintaining the hair. The compositions of the invention may also be in the form of creams, gels, emulsions, lotions or waxes.

When the composition of the invention is formulated in an aerosol form for obtaining a lacquer or foam, it comprises at least one propellant which may be selected from volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, pentane, chlorine and / or flour containing hydrocarbon, and their We can also use carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, dimethyl ether (DME), nitrogen, compressed air as propellant. Mixtures of propellants may also be used. Suitably dimethyl ether is used.

Suitably, the propellant is present in a concentration of from 5 to 90% by weight. based on the total weight of the composition in the aerosol device, and more preferably in a concentration of 10 to 60%.

The compositions of the invention may be used in hair compositions, lipsticks, nail polishes or skin creams.

Suitably, the compositions of the invention are applied to the hair, whether dry or wet.

The invention will be illustrated more fully by the following non-limiting examples.

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An example of an embodiment of the invention

We prepare three compositions according to the invention.

U Preparation of film forming polymers

1 / Preparation of film-forming polymer PI

To a 1 liter reactor equipped with central mixing, coolant and feed was added 140 g of absolute ethanol, which was fed in the reflux (78 ° C) for 45 minutes. At reflux, the reactor is simultaneously fed for 2 hours:

- 60 g absolute ethanol and 2,2 g 2,5-bis (2-ethylhexanolperoxy) -2,5-dimethylhexane

- 32 g acrylic acid + 68 g methyl methacrylate + 100 g isobutylakiylate.

At the end of the 2 addition, leave for 3 hours at 78 ° C, then set stirring at ambient temperature. We obtain a viscous solution of polymer PI with a 50% concentration in absolute ethanol. The composition of the PI polymer is in weight percent relative to the total polymer weight:

acrylic acid 16% methyl methacrylate 34% isobutyl acrylate 50%

2 / Preparation of film forming polymer P2

We will use the same synthesis path as in the previous case, except for the addition of monomers, which is as follows: 32 g acrylic acid + 70 g rimethylmethacrylate + 29 g methyl acrylate + 20 g isobutylakiylate. We obtain a viscous solution of P2 polymer with a 50% concentration in absolute ethanol. The composition of the PI polymer is in weight percent relative to the total polymer weight:

acrylic acid 16% methyl methacrylate 35% isobutyl acrylate 20% methyl acrylate 29%

3 / Preparation of film-forming polymer P3

Polymer P3 is prepared using the process of the invention for the production of a film-forming polymer. To a 1 liter reactor equipped with central mixing, coolant and feed was added 140 g of absolute ethanol, which was fed in the reflux (78 ° C) for 45 minutes. At reflux, the following mixture was added simultaneously to the reactor for 2 hours; 32 g acrylic acid + 0.4 g initiator + 10 g ethanol. After the addition is complete, allow 15 minutes to reflux. Then, the following mixture is continuously fed for 1 h 30 min: 70 g methyl methacrylate + 58 g methyl acrylate + 40 g isobutyl acrylate + 50 g 510A + 1.8 g initiator. After the addition is complete, allow to reflux for 3 hours and dilute the reaction medium to achieve a final 20% concentration in ethanol. This gives the polymer P3. The composition of polymer P3 is in weight percent based on the total weight of the polymer;

acrylic acid 16% methyl methacrylate 35% isobutyl acrylate 20% methyl acrylate 29% ethanol

11 / Preparation of resources

Composition 1 polymer PI 6% m.a.

-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol qs 100% neutralization qsp 100 g

Composition 2 polymer P2

-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol ethanol

Composition 3 polymer P3

amino-2-methyl-1-propanol ethanol% m.a.

qs 100% neutralization qsp 100 g% m.a.

qs 100% neutralization qsp 100 g

ΠΙ / Characterization of funds

The parameters defining the mechanical profile of the compositions are summarized in the following Table I. The acid number also appears in this Table I.

Table I

Means Number kvselosti Elongation ε (%) Immediate recovery of lengthRi (%) Immediate recovery of length Rjco in 300 seconds (%) 1 124 > 1500 25 35 2 124 1200 35 55 · * » 124 1200 48 61

The compositions 1 to 3 of the present invention are applied to strands of natural brown hair.

After conditioning the compositions in pump bottles and applying 10 compressions to the 5 grams strands of natural hair, prewashed and dried, we note that the compositions strengthen the hair well, give the hair a pleasant protective feel and are easily removed with shampoo.

Claims (9)

PATENT CLAIMS Cosmetic composition, characterized in that it contains at least one film-forming polymer (A) so obtained in a cosmetically suitable environment. that the mass obtained by drying the polymer in an aqueous or alcoholic medium at ambient temperature and a relative humidity of 50% has a mechanical profile determined as defined by at least: (a) an elongation at break (s _r ) greater than or equal to 160%; (b) instantaneous recovery of length (R _t ) from 25 to 70% after elongation of 150%; (c) instantaneous recovery of length (R300) in 300 seconds from 25 to 70% after elongation of 150%; a film-forming polymer (A) comprising at least one monomer having an unsaturated acid structural unit whose acidity value is greater than 82. The composition according to claim 1, wherein the acid number is from 82 to 235, more preferably from 90 to 190, and most preferably from 100 to 130. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that one or more of the polymorphic polymers (A) are preferably present in the compaction of from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. % and preferably from 0.25 to 10 wt. based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the film-forming polymer (A) is selected from those having at least one unsaturated carboxylic or sulfonic acid among their monomers. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition contains, inter alia, conventional cosmetic adjuncts selected from thickeners, anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, perfumes, preservatives, sun filters, proteins, vitamins, provitamins. • · 99 9 9 Fixing or non-fixing anionic, non-ionic, cationic or amtbteric polymers, minerals, vegetable or synthetic oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides, volatile or non-volatile silicones, linear or cyclic, modified or not, and any other adjunct classically used in cosmetic products application on her hair. An aerosol device comprising the composition of any preceding claim. A method of maintaining or shaping a hairstyle comprising forming a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 in cosmetics, in particular hair preparations, lipsticks, nail polishes or skin creams. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5 for the manufacture of a cosmetic composition, in particular a hair composition intended to maintain or form a tea.