CN1961105A - Method and machine for producing knitwear items and products obtained thereby - Google Patents

Abstract

Current knitting production characterized by the combination of a ribbed welt or double bed beside an area of plain knitting or single bed strongly jeopardizes the manufacturing process since it requires a strong take-down, which extends or deforms the stitch and the fabric during the knitting process, also producing an additional, unwanted stress onto the yarn under working. The invention relates to a method and related equipment for producing knitwear items provided with ribbed welt beside plain knitted fabric produced under optimal conditions with knitting sinkers. According to the invention, the quality of plain knitted fabric greatly improves, the single garment or piece of cloth is discharged in an easier way, with various manufacturing, economic, aesthetic and commercial advantages.

Description

Method and machine for producing knitted goods and products made from knitted goods

In recent years, there has been an increased demand for knitwear with double-bed ribbed seams in addition to single-bed jerseys, which are lighter and lighter than double-bed or double-jersey knits. Cheaper and more regular. As a rule, the aforementioned knitwear is produced on a "double-bed" machine, that is, its dial and cylinders have special needles provided with side springs for transferring the stitches from one needle bed to the other bed. This category of "double bed" machines generally includes flat knitting machines (such as Stoll, Shima Seiki, and Protti) and circular knitting machines, which in turn have medium diameter (14-18 inch) circular knitting machines. Machines such as the Santoni SM9 and corresponding knitting machines with large diameters (33-42 inches) also equipped with needles in dials and cylinders, such as the Variatex 1800 produced by Mecmor and by Jumberca, Mayer , the corresponding model produced by Fukuhara. In recent years, manufacturers of these special double-bed knitting machines have gradually increased their fineness (needles per inch), but as is known, jersey fabrics are always produced without knitting sinkers, i.e. only Produced with knitting needles on a bed, the jersey fabric described above is therefore not entirely satisfactory from a technical point of view and from a textile point of view. The above-mentioned circular knitting machines generally operate by transferring loops from one needle bed to another when ribbing, and inserting so-called "separation yarns" between the various parts or garments, which is the term used for this. technology known to those skilled in the art. Current knitting production is characterized by the fact that the combination of rib gussets in the area of plain knitting greatly impairs the manufacturing process, since it systematically requires a considerable reduction in the production rate of the fabric or piece, thus stretching or distorting too many loop structures; Creates additional unwanted stress on the yarn while working; making work recovery more difficult in the event of a yarn break. In the specific case, the above-mentioned rib seams have technical and negative effects on the production of the entire product, although the size concerns only a very small part of the final product. In addition, the main part of the finished product, whether it is a piece of cloth or a piece of clothing, is more and more often knitted with flat knitting, that is, with cylinder needles only and without knitting sinkers; this has a great influence on the overall quality of the product. large impact, which is what the present invention aims to solve. In short, the production of the above-mentioned manufactures does not meet all the requirements of modern textile production, which tends to have ribbed gussets on thinner and suitable jersey fabrics, such products are suitable for warmer seasons and are more suitable than double knit fabrics. Bed of needles are lighter and less expensive. In particular, at higher gauges, the "beauty" or regularity of the knits produced has textile and commercial significance affecting the reputation and fortune of the knitwear factory. It can be said that the present invention aims to reduce or at least partly eliminate the limitations of the aforementioned manufacturing techniques, with original economic, manufacturing, aesthetic and commercial uses. Therefore, the main object of the present invention is to provide a method and related equipment for producing knitwear from yarns commonly used in the textile industry, including natural yarns, synthetic yarns, artificial yarns, elastic yarns , elastomeric yarns (elastomeric yarns) and blends of these yarns. The knitwear has a ribbed seam in addition to a jersey (and related knit construction) and is produced using only one needle bed of needles in combination with a knit sinker. Another principal object is to provide a method and related apparatus for producing knitwear which, in addition to plain knit fabrics (and related knit constructions), is provided with ribbed seams using only cylinder needles and knitting sinkers incorporated therein And work with essentially horizontal or radial alternating motion. A further object is to provide a method and related equipment for the production of knitwear which, in addition to the knitwear produced with only one needle bed of needles in combination with suitable knitting sinkers, has the characteristics of being produced with various alternating needles Ribbed shut edges.

Another object is to produce the above-mentioned knitwear with only one needle bed of needles and the knitting sinkers inserted therein, in a substantially vertical and/or elliptical movement. Another object is to provide a method and related equipment for producing the above-mentioned articles of manufacture, such as pieces of cloth or garments, without separating the yarns, so that the products are discharged individually at the end of each production cycle. Further objects are obtained from the description, the examples and the drawings, and the final claims, alone or in combination. The features and resulting advantages of the present invention will be more apparent from the following description of an embodiment provided as an example, shown in the accompanying drawings, in which:

Figures 1-5 schematically show a pair of knitting needles in different operating steps of a double needle bed machine of known type;

Figure 6 schematically shows a detailed view of a pair of needles and a sinker in a machine according to the invention;

Figure 7 shows a cross-sectional view of a knitted part with an initial double bed shut edge and a jersey knitted part;

Figure 8 schematically shows a detailed view of needles and sinkers in a second type of known machine;

Figure 9 shows a perspective view of a knitted portion, with a double bed closed edge and flat knit portion;

Figures 9A, 10A and 10B illustrate textiles produced according to the present invention;

Figure 10 shows the part knitted in Figure 8 with an initial double bed shut edge and flat knit portion.

It should be noted that, in the present invention, the term "knitwear" refers to any product obtained by knitting, and includes both fabrics and actual finished or semi-finished products. In contrast, the invention does not relate to articles other than "knitwear", such as knitted hosiery produced on small diameter machines.

A medium diameter machine is one having a diameter of 9-24 inches, while a large diameter machine is a machine having a diameter exceeding 24 inches.

The following description relates generally to knitting machines, and in particular to circular knitting machines of medium and large nominal diameters from 9 to 42 inches, said knitting machines being at least equipped with:

- two needle beds;

- or a dial and cylinder that rotate relative to a fixed cam, or a fixed cam that rotates relative to the dial and cylinder;

- one of the needle beds is also equipped with several knitting needles for transporting the stitches to the other needle bed;

- One of the needle beds is also equipped with knitting sinkers;

- one or more complete yarn feeding devices with thread regulator or moving yarn guide;

- knitting cams for fabric manufacturing, which can be automatically adjusted in order to vary their position and knitting density;

- selection means for controlling the knitting elements used to manufacture the fabric according to the pattern program or working program;

- common mechanical or pneumatic opening devices for knitting needles;

- Pneumatic device for fabric removal;

- or a mechanical device for fabric removal;

- Compressed air means on at least one needle bed.

Figures 1 and 2 schematically show an example of the prior art: a general-purpose double-bed knitting machine is equipped with dials and needle cylinders and corresponding knitting needles AP, AC (side springs ML are also provided), and yarn F is obtained so that Production of ribbed border knitted fabric MC-BC. It is a traditional ribbed seam that is conventionally produced at the beginning of a piece of cloth or clothing, and is characterized by knitting needles with different spacing on two needle beds, such as 1:1, 2:1, 2:2, 3:2, etc. form. At the end of the above-mentioned rib seams produced with the usual structure of double-needle-bed knitted fabrics, the knitting loops are transported from one needle-bed to the other by special knitting needles, the above-mentioned special knitting is provided with a side spring, said side spring is provided by ML logo in Figure 4-5. After the step of transferring the stitches from the dial to the cylinder, the dial needles AP in Fig. 3 are idle, while the production of the jersey MR is carried out only with the cylinder needles AC. Figure 7 shows a cross-sectional view of the knitting acquisition part TM mainly consisting of the initial double needle bed closing edge MC-BC, interrupted by the loop transfer along the line LTM after which the jersey MR begins . According to the invention, the exemplary embodiment in Fig. 6 shows a modified cylinder with the addition of knitting sinkers PM alternating with cylinder needles. In this particular case, the sinker PM with the usual sinker surface PIA participates together with the cylinder needles AC in the normal fabric forming process. The aforementioned knitted sinkers are well known to those skilled in the art and therefore do not require any detailed description. However, US Patent Nos. 1388341-2210796-3149483-3643471-4532781 describe their main features in detail and show various configurations on the needle bed and interaction with the needles.

The alternating radial sliding of the sinker PM is conventionally guided by the triangle of the sinker cap or cover CP (or also with an extended centripetal stroke to expel the knitted fabric at the end of the cycle), which can control The newly formed fabric and gradually pushes the fabric into the needle cylinder. In the various embodiments of the invention, considering the variations involving specialized textiles of different diameters and the machine gauge under consideration, for the sinker heels along the runways formed by the fixed triangles of existing single jersey knitting machines The moving sinker and the sinker heel moving along the runway of the moving triangle are also spring-loaded. According to the teaching of the present invention, the knitting sinker PM, fitted inside a suitable groove or recess, can either slide freely or be subjected to the force of a retracting and pushing spring towards the center of the cylinder, especially when small diameter cylinders are involved. In any case, the mechanical weaving combination of knitting needles and corresponding knitting sinkers produces various advantages: it directly and significantly improves the overall quality of knitted fabrics produced in this particular case under optimal conditions. become. Greatly reduces the need for forced fabric removal; obtains thicker or narrower weaves and fabrics; uses cheaper yarns, including low twist yarns: can be easily reworked in case of any yarn break. In more respects, the function of the sinker PM is mainly to also improve the production cycle and the general structure of the above-mentioned conventional machines. At the end of each working cycle involving a single garment or piece of clothing, it is expelled by the centripetal action (if necessary, extended centripetal action) of the sinker PM and, if necessary, by suitable Compressed air jet reinforcement. Especially the existing shape and function of the expensive fabric take-off device equipped on the above-mentioned circular knitting machine is too large; in the present invention, if continuous production, said take-off device becomes a simple warp beam (beamer ). The innovation of ejecting each garment or piece from the needles at the end of the working cycle also eliminates the so-called "separation line" and the associated weaving operations, thus reducing manufacturing time and expense during knitting and subsequent manufacturing.

The present invention also investigates a single-bed knitting machine which obviously relates to a needle bed equipped with hooks in the dial. The prior art example shown in Figure 8 involves a circular "seamless" knitting machine as described in more detail in US Patent No. 5,222,379, see the aforementioned US Patent for more details. It is a medium diameter machine for underwear and knitwear similar to the SM-8 type machine manufactured at Santoni, which does not need any further description as it is well known. The above machines are available in different diameters, with nominal values ranging from 9-24 inches. The example partially shown in FIG. 8 consists of a cylinder with its needles AC equipped with customary knitting sinkers PM with sinker surfaces PIA arranged alternately with the aforementioned needles AC. In its coaxial position above, the needle cylinder rotates integrally with the so-called dial PL, which is equipped with a hook U which cooperates with the needles AC for forming the The double edge (or elastic edge) DB-DBE shown.

It is a traditional double tape or elastic seam obtained by expelling the knitted fabric from the hook U to the needles AC, ending in the usual "horn" or "cup" CU, as can be seen on the reverse side of the knitted fabric in Figure 9. See. The above-mentioned two-layer double-seam DB-DBE is present in the panties 1 of Fig. 9A, and is obtained in the current production of underwear products and knitwear with the above-mentioned machines of the type SM-8 manufactured by the company Santoni or similar with different diameters . The above-described puncture obtained by ejecting knitted fabrics with hooks U has technical, textile, functional and aesthetic disadvantages. The aforementioned "horn" or "cup" CUs are generally fragile and may break easily. Also, the aforementioned "horns" or "cups" are conspicuous and protrude on the knitted fabric, therefore, as a principle, knitted fabrics made in this way should not be designed or used on the opposite side thereof. Jacquard patterns using only cylinder needles must be limited, either because it creates floats that reduce the overall elasticity of the edge, or because it requires precise adjustment of the various yarns (so-called "plating", a type of artisan known technology). During use, the double gusset DB-DBE of the pant 1 in Fig. 9A tends to roll up on itself, thus reducing comfort. Finally, it should be noted that, for aesthetic or commercial reasons, jersey with ribbed gussets is considered the most valuable, with a clear added value. According to the invention, the hooks U of the dial PL in FIG. 8 are thus replaced by needles AP, which basically shows the same technical features as the machine illustrated in FIG. yarn device. It can be considered that, according to the present invention, the textile machine schematically shown in sectional view in Fig. 8 is finally composed of the knitting needles AC and the sinker PM on the needle cylinder, together with the knitting needles AP on the dial PL, the above-mentioned operation combination solves the problem of large Most of the problems associated with the hook U, and thus the ability to produce straps and/or ribbed seams for various uses and applications such as those associated with MC-BC in Figures 10, 10A and 10B. This trim is obviously combined in large quantities with other knitted articles such as corsets, bras, winter shorts, dresses, skirts, trousers, sleeves, hoods and other articles obtained with so-called "seamless" machines, depending on the in various sizes and diameters.

In order to obtain knitwear also with the finest ribbed seams, the invention is preferably limited to only one needle bed (needle disc), utilizing several needles to transfer loops from one needle bed to another, the needles set side springs (but the loops can also be transferred with suitable needles without the aforementioned springs). Whereas the rib seam MC-BC of Fig. 7 represents the lower portion of a typical knitted fabric produced with the above-mentioned double needle bed machine, the corresponding rib seam MC-BC in Fig. 10 can be produced if it is turned upside down and produced with suitable yarns. Serving as an elastic band for the underpants 1 in Figure 10A, or as a multifunctional ribbed seam for the product 1 of Figure 10B, the above-mentioned manufactured product 1 is produced with a single bed of needles machine with different diameters. The great flexibility of the present invention can also change the shape and function of at least some of the current knitwear products to a great extent, with the results and effects mentioned above. There are necessarily limitations to this description, and further changes can be provided by a person skilled in the art, which nevertheless fall within the scope of the invention.

Figures 1-2 show prior art examples related to yarn acquisition and double needle bed knitting structures when forming knitted fabrics with ribs or rib gull MC-BC. In Fig. 2, dial needle AP is equipped with side spring ML.

Figure 3 shows the dial needles AP, stopped after transferring their loops to the cylinder needles AC. The textile machine currently produces jersey fabrics with only one needle bed of knitting needles or cylinder needles AC.

Figure 4 shows a single needle provided with a side spring ML during the loop transfer step, and also shows the needles of the corresponding second needle bed.

Fig. 5 is a front view of a cylinder needle AC provided with a side spring ML into which a dial needle AP is inserted. Figure 6 schematically shows a cross-sectional view of a needle cylinder according to the invention, said cylinder being equipped with knitting sinkers PM alternately arranged and sliding between said needles, and consisting of sinker covers or sinker holders CP and according to The relative triangle described in traditional textile technology is controlled.

Dial needles AP are excluded from the forming fabric process for jersey MR manufactured only with cylinder needles AC together with knitting sinkers PM . FIG. 7 shows a cross-sectional view of a knitted fabric TM consisting of an initial rib seam MC-BC and a plain knitted fabric MR lying thereon. The LTM is the line that ejects or transfers the loop from the dial to the cylinder.

Fig. 8 mainly relates to the above-mentioned Santoni SM-8 type and similar knitting machines with different diameters, which have been equipped with knitting sinkers PM, but without the needles AP with side springs in the dial AL, the above-mentioned dial PL Known to those skilled in the art, it is usually equipped with a hook U that slides radially.

According to the teaching of the invention, the hook U is thus replaced by the above-mentioned transfer needle AP, preferably equipped with side springs, in order to produce known knitwear with valuable ribbed seams for various applications ( Fig. 10B), except that it is used for the underpants 1 in Fig. 10A except that it functions as a belt or a hem. It should be noted that needles AP with side springs (and the like) are much more versatile than hooks U described above, as they are used to produce the valuable rib welts of FIGS. - Double-layer shut edge shown in DBE.

Claims (23)

1. with having two needle-bar (CILINDRO, the method of medium or large diameter circular knitter manufacturing needles fabric PL), comprise: use above-mentioned two needle-bars (CILINDRO, knitting needle PL) (AP, AC) step of manufacturing first two-needle bar limit, pass or the knitting part of tuck welt (MC-BC) simultaneously; Finish the step that above-mentioned first two-needle bar closes limit or the knitting part of tuck welt (MC-BC) by the knitting needle (AC) of the knitting needle (AP) of coil first needle-bar from above-mentioned needle-bar being transferred to second needle-bar in the above-mentioned needle-bar, it is characterized in that it also comprises: the step of making the knitting part of the second single needle bed (MR) with the knitting needle (AC) of above-mentioned second needle-bar and the knitting sinker (PM) that helps fabric to produce.

2. in accordance with the method for claim 1, it is characterized in that the step of the above-mentioned manufacturing second knitting part (MR) is located immediately at after the step of the above-mentioned knitting part of end first two-needle bar (MC-BC).

3. according to claim 1 or 2 described methods, it is characterized in that the above-mentioned second knitting part (MR) comprises jersey.

4. according to the described method of claim 1,2 or 3, it is characterized in that the step of the above-mentioned manufacturing knitting part of the second single needle bed (MR) comprises the step of producing rib stitch, being used to obtain to small part is the fabric of rib stitch.

5. in accordance with the method for claim 4, it is characterized in that above-mentioned jersey can also comprise tucked loop and/or float or close the limit.

6. require one of them described method according to aforesaid right, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned sinker (PM) is contained in the above-mentioned machine, and works between each knitting needle (AC) of above-mentioned second needle-bar (CILINDRO) with level and/or radial motion.

7. according to one of them described method of claim 1-5, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned sinker (PM) is contained in the above-mentioned machine, and is that vertical and/or oval motion is worked between each knitting (AC) of above-mentioned second needle-bar (CILINDRO) basically with what replace.

8. according to one of them described method of claim 1-5, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned sinker (PM) is contained in the above-mentioned machine, and becomes the motion of diagonal angle and/or inclination to work between each knitting needle (AC) of above-mentioned second needle-bar (CILINDRO) with what replace with respect to above-mentioned knitting needle.

9. require one of them described method according to aforesaid right, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned first needle-bar (PL) is horizontal needle-bar or dials, and above-mentioned second needle-bar (CILINDRO) is vertical needle-bar or syringe.

10. according to one of them described method of claim 1-8, it is characterized in that (CILINDRO PL) is vertical needle-bar or syringe to above-mentioned first and second needle-bars.

11. require one of them described method, it is characterized in that it also is included in the step that each manufacturing cycle finishes, discharges above-mentioned knitwear by automatically discharging fabric with suitable moving meter individually according to aforesaid right.

12. in accordance with the method for claim 11, it is characterized in that fabric is discharged by above-mentioned sinker (PM) part.

13. have medium or large diameter circular knitter, comprise at least two needle-bar (CILINDRO, PL), wherein at least one needle-bar also is provided with coverer, be used for coil is transferred to another needle-bar, it is characterized in that,, the sinker (PM) that helps fabric forming is set at least on one of them of above-mentioned needle-bar.

14., it is characterized in that it comprises that also at least one has the complete feed carrier of yarn changing device or mobile thread-carrier according to the described machine of claim 13; Be used for textile stitch cam, described stitch cam can be regulated the density that changes it automatically; Be used to help to make the electronic selection device of the control element of fabric according to decorative pattern program or operation sequence, and the machinery or the pneumatic needle device of opening of knitting needle.

15., it is characterized in that it also comprises the pneumatic or mechanical device that is used for fabric take-down according to claim 13 or 14 described machines.

16., it is characterized in that it also comprises the blowing plant that acts at least one needle-bar according to the described machine of claim 13,14 or 15.

17., it is characterized in that above-mentioned needle-bar comprises dials (PL) and syringe according to one of them described machine of claim 13-16, this syringe rotates with respect to syringe with respect to fixed triangle rotation or fixed triangle.

18., it is characterized in that above-mentioned needle-bar wherein has only a needle-bar equipment to help textile sinker (PM) according to one of them described machine of claim 13-17.

19., it is characterized in that (PL CILINDRO) has equipped help textile sinker (PM) to above-mentioned two needle-bars according to one of them described machine of claim 13-18.

20. according to one of them described machine of claim 13-19, it is characterized in that, above-mentioned needle-bar (PL, CILINDRO) one of at least in sinker play an active part in the discharge textiles, these textiless are discharged separately producing when finishing.

21. according to one of them described machine of claim 13-20, it is characterized in that, the diameter of machine is the 9-24 inch and belongs to " seamless " type, dials (CILINDRO wherein, PL) the suitable knitting needle of packing into, be used for coil is transferred to another needle-bar, this machine is used to make corselet, brassiere, winter underpants, full dress, skirt, trousers, sleeve, scarf etc.

22. the knitwear that utilize medium or large diameter circular knitter to obtain, it is characterized in that, the first knitting part (MC-BC) obtains by the first step and second step, in above-mentioned first step, two-needle bar limit, pass or tuck welt knitted fabric are by two needle-bars (PL, knitting needle CILINDRO) (AP, AC) manufacturing simultaneously, and in above-mentioned second step, the knitting needle (AC) that above-mentioned tuck welt is transferred to another needle-bar with coil from the knitting needle (AP) of a needle-bar finishes; And the second knitting part (MR) obtains by third step, and in above-mentioned third step, machine is only used one of them knitting needle (AC) and help textile sinker (PM) manufacture order needle-bar jersey of above-mentioned needle-bar.

23., it is characterized in that tucked loop and/or limit, pass are also gone up in the above-mentioned second knitting part (MR) and made according to the described knitwear of claim 22.

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