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CN1517038A - Compund fibre for lining cloth and textiles for lining cloth - Google Patents

Compund fibre for lining cloth and textiles for lining cloth Download PDF

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Publication number
CN1517038A
CN1517038A CNA2004100010122A CN200410001012A CN1517038A CN 1517038 A CN1517038 A CN 1517038A CN A2004100010122 A CNA2004100010122 A CN A2004100010122A CN 200410001012 A CN200410001012 A CN 200410001012A CN 1517038 A CN1517038 A CN 1517038A
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China
Prior art keywords
silk
lining cloth
cloth
fiber
core
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Granted
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CNA2004100010122A
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Chinese (zh)
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CN100381623C (en
Inventor
棚濑勉
森元良自
黑田本信
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Faithful Corp
TOKAI THERMO CO Ltd
Toyobo Co Ltd
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Faithful Corp
TOKAI THERMO CO Ltd
Toyobo Co Ltd
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Publication of CN1517038A publication Critical patent/CN1517038A/en
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Publication of CN100381623C publication Critical patent/CN100381623C/en
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  • Details Of Garments (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)

Abstract

This composite yarn for the interlining is constituted by in a plurality of core yarn filaments and a fine filament yarn arranged around the core yarn filaments, and is processed by performing the yarn twisting of the core yarn filaments with the fine filament yarn by 4,500-20,000 twisting factor. The core yarn filaments consist of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having 10-50 decitex single fiber fineness, and the fine filament yarn consists of fine filaments or a spun yarn consisting of a thermoplastic synthetic fiber having <10 decitex single fiber fineness.

Description

Lining cloth is with compound silk and lining cloth cloth and silk
Technical field
The lining cloth that the present invention relates to be mainly used in predecessor's part of heavy clothes such as suit, jacket, overcoat and shoulder with cloth and silk, constitute this lining cloth with the organizine of cloth and silk or the lining cloth compound silk of tram.
Background technology
Generally in order to make clothes have formability and shape-retaining ability, the lining cloth of predecessor's part of heavy clothes etc. uses hymonette with cloth and silk.Require the organizine of formation hymonette or the raw material of tram that appropriate rigidity and resilience are arranged.Therefore use in the animal hair fibre thick in fineness, that tension force is arranged (goat, camel, carat storehouse sheep, yak etc.) and sneak into the animal hair fibre blending weaving silk that artificial silk and wool etc. are made.The thickness of animal hair fibre blending weaving silk is that 9~18 metric counts (are about 550 dtexs (dtex)-1110dtex).In that the grey cloth of being made by animal hair fibre blending weaving silk is put in order in the operation of processing, on grey cloth, adhere to the resin finishing that texture is adjusted agent (for example polyvinyl alcohol vinyl resin or vinyl acetate resinoid etc.).Utilize described resin finishing that the rigidity of grey cloth and resilience are further improved, make hymonette with enough formabilities and shape-retaining ability.
Its surperficial crude fibre of the hymonette of making is outstanding, and touch perception is coarse hard, and resembles paper.In addition, this hymonette produces and adjusts agent because of texture and come off and wait the rigidity reduction that causes after the dry-cleaning of the operational phase of clothes or dress.
In addition, clothes develops to softnessization, lightweight direction in recent years, and " the fastener phenomenon " that part is twined takes place easily for the animal hair fibre of hymonette and the predecessor of clothes part.This fastener phenomenon is to be used for the binding lining of predecessor part and to give prominence to the phenomenon that tangles winding at the animal hair fibre of the fineness degree on hymonette surface slightly.After this phenomenon takes place, promptly use flatiron and forcing press to repair, but because of the moving or dress of clothes, hymonette and predecessor's part move mutually, produce again and twine, and can not reach the purpose of finishing.
In " hymonette " required quality except appropriate rigidity, resilience will be arranged, also require to have smooth texture (perceptual image that does not have paper), variation in rigidity is little, good etc. to the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of moisture and heat etc., prevent that in addition the fastener phenomenon from also being important.In recent years, because environmental problem needn't be dry-cleaned heavy clothes (suit, the jacket etc.) commercialization that can wash cleaning.Existing hymonette produces and shrinks when the washing cleaning, and DIMENSIONAL STABILITY reduces.Therefore also require to improve the DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of hymonette after the washing cleaning.
On the one hand, the lining cloth cloth and silk of described hymonette instead, known have a for example special lining cloth grey cloth that clothes that flat 7-216612 communique delivers is delivered with lining cloth and the flat 9-188938 communique of Te Kai of opening.Use in the clothes lining that Te Kaiping 7-216612 communique is delivered the hollow rate that contains 30 weight %-100 weight % as the polyester fiber silk thread of 10%-50% as organizine and/or tram.With in the lining cloth, be difficult to make its smooth surface at this clothes, particularly can not solve the fastener phenomenon well.It is special on the other hand that to open lining cloth grey cloth that flat 9-188938 communique delivers be to use the cloth and silk of allocating the blended ratio of the core-sheath-type composite fibre of low melting point composition and polyester doughnut in sheath portion at least in part.The core-sheath-type composite fibre accounts for 3 weight % to 40 weight % of whole blended ratio.The hollow rate scope of polyester doughnut is 15%-40%.Compare with above-mentioned hymonette, lining cloth is poor with the rigidity and the resilience of grey cloth sometimes.These clothes are compared with above-mentioned hymonette arbitrarily with grey cloth with lining cloth and lining cloth, all have excellent shape-retaining ability, simultaneously can lightweight, but can not fully satisfy desired in recent years condition.
Summary of the invention
The purpose of this invention is to provide easily to make and keep formability, shape-retaining ability and in the rigidity of operational phase, though wash its DIMENSIONAL STABILITY might as well, and the smooth lining cloth of surface touch is with compound silk and lining cloth cloth and silk.
In order to reach described purpose; the invention provides by many wick fibers and be configured in filament ( yarn around these wick fibers ) the lining cloth compound silk formed.Wick fibers is that the thermoplastic synthetic fiber of 10dtex-50dtex constitutes by the monofilament fineness scope.Filament constitutes less than a kind in the weaving silk of 10dtex by being selected from filament fiber and the monofilament fineness that monofilament fineness forms less than the thermoplastic synthetic fiber of 10dtex at least.Above-mentioned core silk fiber and filament are carried out twisting processing with the twisting coefficient of 4500-20000, make the lining cloth compound silk.
The specific embodiment
Below a specific embodiment of the present invention is elaborated.
It is 50dtex or the filament below the 50dtex that lining cloth contains monofilament fineness with compound silk.Lining cloth contains many core silk fibers more than at least a kind with compound silk and is arranged on these core silk fibers many filaments on every side.By being carried out twisted filament, described core silk fiber and filament be processed into the lining cloth compound silk.Be used for the lining cloth cloth and silk (woven or woven cloth) of heavy clothes such as suit, jacket, overcoat, at least one side of organizine and tram uses the lining cloth compound silk, and preferred lining cloth is used for tram with compound silk.Lining cloth has the described lining cloth of increasing with the good shape-retaining ability energy of cloth and silk with compound silk, has the elastic effect of raising simultaneously.
Lining cloth can use thermoplastic synthetic fibers such as polyester, nylon with the raw material of compound silk.As the raw material of the thick main filametntary core silk fiber of monofilament fineness, most preferably use raw material itself to have the polyester of high rigidity (shape-retaining ability).Constituting lining cloth is 50dtex or below the 50dtex with the silk thickness of compound silk, preferably 0.5dtex-50dtex, more preferably 0.5dtex-40dtex, most preferably 1.0dtex-30dtex.When the filametntary monofilament fineness of wherein bringing into play rigidity surpasses 50dtex,, make and stably carry out twisting processing and become very difficult because lining cloth is too high with the rigidity of compound silk.In addition because the lining cloth of making is too high with the rigidity of cloth and silk, so be unaccommodated.Constitute lining cloth with the lower limit monofilament fineness of the silk of compound silk during less than 0.5dtex, because the price height of silk, cost increases, so do not recommend to use.
In order to make lining cloth have high rigidity (flexural rigidity) with cloth and silk, the monofilament fineness scope of setting each core silk fiber is 10dtex-50dtex, is preferably 20dtex-40dtex, more preferably 20dtex-33dtex.When the monofilament fineness of core silk fiber surpasses 50dtex,, make and stably carry out twisting processing and become very difficult because lining cloth is too high with the rigidity of compound silk.Also make lining cloth too high in addition, so be unaccommodated with the rigidity of cloth and silk.When the monofilament fineness of core silk fiber was less than 10dtex on the other hand, lining cloth can not have enough necessary rigidity with cloth and silk.
As core silk fiber, when using the monofilament fineness scope, can make and keep suitably well-pressed lining cloth cloth and silk of heavy clothes predecessor part as the filament (preferred polyester system) of 10dtex-25dtex.In addition as core silk fiber, when using the monofilament fineness scope, can make and keep suitably well-pressed lining cloth cloth and silk of heavy clothes shoulder pad lining cloth as the filament (preferred polyester system) of 25dtex-50dtex.
Lining cloth preferably contains monofilament fineness less than the thin filament fiber of 10dtex or the filament fiber of weaving silk with in the compound silk around core silk fiber.Filament is processed by twisting with described core silk fiber.Filament has the described core silk fiber twisting of filling and adds the concavo-convex function that form with compound silk surface at lining cloth man-hour.Thereby make lining cloth become smooth with the sense of touch on cloth and silk surface.When filament is the weaving silk, be not easy to come off with compound silk at the lining cloth of cutting out section of lining cloth with cloth and silk.
The monofilament fineness of each filament fiber is set at less than 10dtex, and preferred range is 0.5dtex-10dtex, more preferably 0.5dtex-9dtex, more preferably 1.0dtex-5dtex.At the monofilament fineness of filament fiber under 10dtex or the situation more than the 10dtex, above-mentioned concavo-convex can not fill smooth, so be difficult to make lining cloth to become smooth with the sense of touch on cloth and silk surface.When the monofilament fineness of filament fiber is less than 0.5dtex on the other hand, the price height of silk, cost increases, so do not recommend to use.In addition for the lining cloth that makes formation is smooth with the surface touch of cloth and silk, the monofilament fineness of filament fiber preferably described core silk fiber monofilament fineness 1/30 to 1/3, be more preferably the 1/10-1/5 of the monofilament fineness of described core silk fiber.
In addition, the scope of setting the monofilament fineness of each weaving silk is less than 10dtex, preferred 0.5dtex-5dtex, more preferably 0.5dtex-2.0dtex, more preferably 0.8dtex-1.4dtex.The monofilament fineness of weaving silk is 10dtex or 10dtex when above, and the compound silk surface exceedingly forms concavo-convex.When monofilament fineness was less than 0.5dtex on the other hand, cost increased, so do not recommend to use.
Filament fiber has high loft sense with compound silk and lining cloth with the cloth and silk surface in order to make lining cloth no matter use raw silk or false twist yarn, and preferred filament fiber is made of automatic elongation silk or false twist yarn.The monofilament fineness of each filament fiber should be less than 10dtex.Automatically the elongation silk is in being woven into the arrangement manufacturing procedure of lining cloth after with cloth and silk, utilizes the heat treatment thermoplastic synthetic fiber of elongation automatically, most preferably uses polyester.False twist yarn is to utilize false twisting processing to obtain the multifilament of desirable loftiness, and most preferably using crispaturas produces the false twist yarn of the polyester of curling.
In order to make lining cloth have strong stiffness (elasticity, resilience and recovery), utilize twisting frame that the whole filaments that contain or the whole filaments that contain and weaving silk are carried out twisting and process and make the lining cloth compound silk with cloth and silk.The direction of twisting has no particular limits, and preferably is used alternatingly S sth. made by twisting and Z and twists with the fingers.The twisting coefficient scope of setting this moment be 4500-in 20000, be preferably 6000-15000, more preferably 8000-12000.With the twisting count of lining cloth compound silk (inferior/as m) and the thickness (dtex) of silk, to obtain described twisting coefficient according to following formula:
Twisting coefficient=(twisting count) * (thickness of silk) 1/2
The twisting coefficient is less than 4500 o'clock, and lining cloth may produce irreversible plastic deformation during with the compound silk local buckling, makes lining cloth use with the clothes of cloth and silk or during keeping, the situation of irreversible folding line may occur.The twisting coefficient was less than 4500 o'clock in addition, and lining cloth is not enough with elasticity, resilience and the recovery (waist) of compound silk.On the other hand, the twisting coefficient surpasses at 20000 o'clock, because the moment of torsion of stranded power is excessive, and lining cloth compound silk instability.In addition, lining cloth cloth and silk surface wrinkling causes rough surface hard.For having or not heat setting processing after the twisting without limits.Be suitable for the shape-retaining ability energy of described lining cloth with cloth and silk in order to bring into play, lining cloth is preferably 300dtex-1200dtex with the thickness scope of compound silk integral body, more preferably 500dtex-1000dtex.
Lining cloth uses the filament of colourless, white or monochromatic (dying solid color) to constitute with compound silk in whole or in part.For by in the tone of compound silk, give accompany white point feel to improve design, at least a kind of filament that preferably constitutes this compound silk is made of chromatic thread.This lining cloth is that only core silk fiber is made of chromatic thread with the simple form of compound silk, or at least a kind of filament in many filament fibers is made of chromatic thread.Lining cloth also can be made of the chromatic thread more than 2 kinds or 2 kinds of dying the different colours more than 2 kinds or 2 kinds with compound silk in addition.
Described lining cloth is used as organizine or tram with compound silk, is preferably used as tram and is woven into (be made into or weave into) gray fabric, gray fabric is put in order the lining cloth cloth and silk that processing obtains present embodiment.Also can be used as organizine and tram to described lining cloth with compound silk in addition.In described arrangement processing, coarse hard and have the sensation of paper, the most handy texture to adjust agent (polyvinyl alcohol olefine resin and vinyl acetate are resin) to carry out texture and process with the sense of touch of cloth and silk for fear of lining cloth.As under the situation of lining cloth with the tram of cloth and silk or organizine, the tram that constitutes this lining cloth needn't all be made of with compound silk lining cloth described in addition lining cloth with compound silk, also can contain other the filament (monofilament, non-twist multifilament or weaving silk) less than 50%.
Preferred part or all tram uses described lining cloth compound silk, a part that constitutes organizine (is preferably 3%-30%, 5%-10% more preferably) silk is hot sticky fiber, by add the heat treated that makes described hot sticky fiber surface fusion man-hour in arrangement, obtains the lining cloth cloth and silk simultaneously.Utilize described hot sticky fiber and tram heat bonding, be not easy to cause decoherencing of silk, organizine or the tram of particularly cutting out face are not easy to come off.
The ratio of the hot sticky fiber in the described organizine can not prevent decoherencing of silk effectively less than under 3% the situation.The ratio of hot sticky fiber surpasses under 30% the situation on the other hand, because the binding site (sticky point) of organizine and tram is too much, lining cloth hardens with cloth and silk, and its texture also reduces.The melting range of preferred described hot sticky fiber is 100 ℃-160 ℃.The fusing point of described hot sticky fiber in making the clothes operation, may fusion occur less than under 100 ℃ the situation because of flatiron scalds with hot pressing.The fusing point of described hot sticky fiber surpasses under 160 ℃ the situation on the other hand, adds man-hour in arrangement, must at high temperature carry out heat treated, is uneconomic therefore.
As described hot sticky fiber, in order to add the shape that do not lose this fiber man-hour in arrangement, preferably the core-sheath-type composite fibre by the core sheath structure with core and sheath portion constitutes.The melting range that constitutes the sheath portion of this core-sheath-type composite fibre in addition is preferably 100 ℃-160 ℃, and the core fusing point surpasses the fusing point of sheath portion, preferably surpasses 160 ℃, more preferably more than 180 ℃ or 180 ℃, most preferably is more than 200 ℃ or 200 ℃.The fusing point of described sheath portion is made in the clothes operation during less than 100 ℃, may scald and fusion appear in hot pressing because of flatiron.When the fusing point of described hot sticky fiber surpasses 160 ℃ on the other hand, adding man-hour in arrangement, must at high temperature carry out heat treated, is uneconomic therefore.
Below the manufacture method of described lining cloth with cloth and silk described.
When making described lining cloth and use cloth and silk, at first after the flexural rigidity of having studied warp-wise that lining cloth needs and broadwise and weight etc., the lining cloth of suitable this result of study is used for organizine or tram with compound silk, be made into or weave into cloth and silk (gray fabric).Also can mix as required, for example can consider that 10 these lining cloth are had heat generation with compound silk and 1 or the filament of the various functions such as smelly property that disappear is arranged by rule with other filaments.Put processing in order by the gray fabric that this is woven into and obtain the lining cloth cloth and silk.
As the arrangement manufacturing procedure, generally carry out concise, predetermined fixed, dyeing and each operation of heat setting.But be not limited to these operations, as required, can also increase the operation (operation of for example fluffing and calendering operation etc.) of other functions.In this external this arrangement manufacturing procedure, preferably adjust agent and carry out texture processing with texture.In concise operation, with scouring agent or desizing agent decompose and remove in spinning, finish that each stage of spinning, weave cotton cloth adheres to, slurry agent, stain etc.As the processing equipment that this concise operation is used, can use continous mode processing machine (continous mode scouring machine) or batch type processing machine (wince machine, liquid stream machine etc.).The predetermined fixed operation is used to improve the stability of the gray fabric of dyeing process.Use heat setter, at for example 180~200 ℃, the dry heat of carrying out 30 seconds is handled.Use for example dispersant in the dyeing process, utilize liquid stream machine, package dyeing machine, high pressure wince machine, high pressure jig etc., polyester fiber is dyeed 120 ℃-130 ℃ scopes.In order to make polyester fiber have heat endurance, carry out heat setting in the heat setting operation.Use heat setter, at for example 180 ℃-200 ℃, the dry heat of carrying out 30 seconds is handled.
Present embodiment has the following advantages.
Lining cloth is used to constitute the lining cloth cloth and silk of the high shape-retaining ability energy of needs that uses as predecessor's part and shoulder at heavy clothes with compound silk.Lining cloth is that 50dtex or the filament below the 50dtex constitute with compound silk by having the monofilament fineness scope, and is the core silk fiber that the thermoplastic synthetic fiber of 10dtex-50dtex is formed by containing several more than at least a kind by the monofilament fineness scope, is processed into through twisting.Have, the twisting coefficient scope of setting described twisting processing is 4500-20000 again.Therefore, lining cloth constitutes mutual similar powerful effect of associating between the fiber with in the compound silk by these, improves the boundling effect significantly.Reduced this lining cloth and used compound silk, processed the danger of the plastic deformation that causes because of twisting in the local buckling masterpiece time spent.
As core silk fiber, use the filament of monofilament fineness scope as 10dtex-50dtex, the lining cloth that can easily be used in heavy clothes has suitable stiffness with cloth and silk.In addition,, use the filament of monofilament fineness scope, can easily be used in heavy clothes predecessor lining cloth partly has suitable intensity with cloth and silk stiffness as 10dtex-25dtex as core silk fiber.Particularly lining cloth is proportional with the thickest filametntary core silk fiber thickness with compound silk whole rigidity (flexural rigidity), monofilament fineness scope at core silk fiber is under the situation of 25dtex-50dtex, as heavy clothes shoulder pad lining cloth, can obtain the stiffness of exceptional strength.
With in the compound silk, can contain the filament fiber of monofilament fineness at lining cloth in the filament less than 10dtex.By landfill filament in the concave-convex surface that is processed to form many core silk fiber twistings, reduce lining cloth the concavo-convex of compound silk surface.And then when making lining cloth and use cloth and silk with compound silk, make the surface smoothing of cloth and silk easily with lining cloth, can make feeling good when wearing clothes.Particularly because surface smoothing can reduce the generation of fastener phenomenon very effectively.This external application lining cloth is good with cloth and silk texture, and loftiness has also increased.With in the compound silk, filament is made of automatic elongation silk or false twist yarn, so the loftiness of this compound silk and heat-insulating property are further enhanced at this lining cloth.In addition, in filament, contain when silk weaving, make lining cloth cloth and silk surface smoothing, and have to make on the cutting section of lining cloth with compound silk and be difficult to produce the effect that comes off.
The gray fabric arrangement processing of using lining cloth to be made into or to weave into compound silk by will be in organizine and tram at least one side obtains the lining cloth cloth and silk.Have again, carry out texture processing man-hour owing to adding in the gray fabric arrangement, so lining cloth can be as above-mentioned existing hymonette with cloth and silk, the situation of the bad use that makes the rigidity reduction because of coming off in clothes operational phase texture adjustment agent is even it also keeps high formability and shape-retaining ability easily in operational phase.
Constituting described lining cloth is made of thermoplastic synthetic fiber with whole filaments of compound silk.When the lining cloth that therefore promptly uses lining cloth to make with compound silk is washed cleaning with cloth and silk, needn't worry that also lining cloth shrinks with cloth and silk, can remain on the high DIMENSIONAL STABILITY of operational phase.In addition, adjust agent because this lining cloth need not add texture with cloth and silk, and contain the lining cloth compound silk that the big core silk fiber of all wt ratio helps to improve rigidity, so compare easier lightweight with above-mentioned existing hymonette.
Lining cloth is with in the cloth and silk, and a part of organizine uses hot sticky fiber, and hot sticky fiber and tram heat bonding make silk be difficult to take off pine.Particularly add the silk of adjusting agent without texture man-hour with cloth and silk in arrangement and decoherence easily, but utilize described hot sticky fiber and tram heat bonding, can obtain the very effective effect that prevents that silk from decoherencing at lining cloth.Add described hot sticky fiber is used for the core-sheath-type composite fibre, follow the arrangement of heat treated to add man-hour, be not easy to lose the shape of hot sticky fiber, make high-quality lining cloth cloth and silk easily.
(embodiment)
Specific embodiment and Comparative Examples to described embodiment describes below.
(embodiment 1)
Use 3 kinds of 100% non-twist polyester fiber silk 333dtex/10f (monofilament fineness 33.3dtex) and 167dtex/30f (monofilament fineness 5.6dtex), 100% polyester weaving silk, 40/1 (monofilament fineness 1.3dtex) etc., carry out the twisting coefficient and be 10330 twisting processing, make the lining cloth compound silk.It is core silk fiber that described 333dtex/10f is arranged again, and filament is described 167dtex/30f filament and 40/1 weaving silk.
Organizine only uses 100% polyester weaving silk 40/2, and tram only uses described lining cloth compound silk.With setting density is that the rapier loom of 40/2.54cm of warp, 40/2.54cm of parallel carries out plain weave, makes gray fabric.This gray fabric is carried out the arrangement processing of concise, predetermined fixed, dyeing and heat setting, obtained the lining cloth cloth and silk that clothes is used.Concise operation uses scouring agent to carry out continous mode processing.In the operation that formalizes in advance, use heat setter 180 ℃, carry out 40 seconds dry heat and handle.In the dyeing process, use DISPERSE DYES,, dye at 130 ℃ by dyeing machine.In the heat setting operation, use heat setter, 180 ℃, carry out 40 seconds dry heat and handle.Finishing density is 44/2.54cm of warp, 42/2.54cm of parallel, has suitable rigidity and resilience as the shoulder pad lining cloth.
(embodiment 2)
Use 3 kinds of non-twist 100% polyester fiber silk 333dtex/10f (monofilament fineness 33.3dtex), 167dtex/30f false twist yarn (monofilament fineness 5.6dtex) and 167dtex/48f false twist yarns (monofilament fineness 3.5dtex) etc., carry out the twisting coefficient and be 10330 twisting processing, make the lining cloth compound silk.Have, described 333dtex/10f is a core silk fiber again, and above-mentioned 167dtex/30f and 167dtex/48f are respectively filament fibers.
As organizine, the core-sheath-type composite fibre that uses 7% core to form as polyethylene (fusing point is 130 ℃) as polyester (fusing point is more than 200 ℃ or 200 ℃) and sheath portion, all the other 93% use 100% polyester weaving silk 40/2.Only use described lining cloth compound silk in the tram.With setting density is that the rapier loom of 40/2.54cm of warp, 40/2.54cm of parallel carries out plain weave, makes gray fabric.Carry out the processing identical subsequently with embodiment 1.Finishing density is 44/2.54cm of warp, 42/2.54cm of parallel, has suitable rigidity and resilience as the shoulder pad lining cloth.
(embodiment 3)
All use 3 kinds of non-twist 100% polyester fiber silk 267dtex/12f (monofilament fineness 22.3dtex), 111dtex/30f (monofilament fineness 3.7dtex) and 111dtex/48f (monofilament fineness 2.3dtex) etc., carry out the twisting coefficient and be 8850 twisting processing, make the lining cloth compound silk.Have, described 267dtex/12f is a core silk fiber again, and described 111dtex/30f and 111dtex/48f are respectively filament fibers.
Organizine only uses 100% polyester weaving silk 40/2, and tram only uses described lining cloth compound silk.With setting density is that the rapier loom of 40/2.54cm of warp, 40/2.54cm of parallel carries out plain weave, makes gray fabric.Carry out the processing identical subsequently with embodiment 1.
(comparative example 1)
As a comparative example 1, use general hymonette.Just organizine uses cotton 100% weaving silk 40/2, and tram uses the blended ratio 1/15 of animal hair fibre (goat) 15%, wool 35% and artificial silk 50%.With setting density is that the rapier loom of 42/2.54cm of warp, 42/2.54cm of parallel carries out plain weave, makes gray fabric.The processing of suede, texture processing singed, boils successively by this gray fabric by the conventional manufacturing procedure of hymonette.Described singing is the operation that the main animal hair fibre on outstanding cloth and silk surface is burnt, and boiling suede is to make animal hair, wool fibre fixedly make its stable operation, and texture processing is the operation of stablizing the cotton material of organizine and adjusting whole texture.Finishing density is 44/2.54cm of warp, 42/2.54cm of parallel.
<contrast test 〉
Each the lining cloth cloth and silk that obtains for embodiment 1~3 and comparative example 1, by according to water-wash test, the broadwise flexural rigidity is changed in the dry-cleaning test and size changing rate (%) is estimated.In addition, make the semi-finished product of each lining cloth with cloth and silk, the fastener phenomenon is estimated, the lining cloth cloth and silk after visual observations is cut out simultaneously to bursting forth phenomenon evaluation, has again, by feel loftiness is estimated.Test method is summarized as follows, and provides its result of the test simultaneously in table 1.
Water-wash test: carry out repeatedly 5 times with the JIS.L.0213.103 method.
Dry-cleaning test: carry out repeatedly 5 times with commercial dry cleaner.
Flexural rigidity determination test: with the sample of the square size of combination 20cm of bonding lining cloth and surperficial gray fabric.Sample is fixed on the holder of interval 1cm.The mode of distortion is at curvature-2.5~+ 2.5 (cm with this holder -1) scope, with 0.5cm -1/ second deformation velocity is carried out the pure bending of iso-curvature speed.Flexural rigidity is to be equivalent to the flexural rigidity (cNcm of unit length 2/ cm) expression measured value.
[table 1]
Embodiment 1 Embodiment 2 Embodiment 3 Comparative example 1
Material Warp Polyester weaving silk The hot sticky fiber of polyester Polyester weaving silk Cotton
Latitude Polyester fiber+polyester weaving silk Polyester fiber Polyester fiber Animal hair, wool, artificial silk
The thickness of silk Warp 40/2 ?40/2 ?40/2 ?40/2
Latitude 500dtex+40/1 ?667dtex ?489dtex ?1/15
Density (root/2.54cm) Warp 44 ?44 ?44 ?44
Latitude 42 ?42 ?42 ?42
Flexural rigidity (broadwise) Washing Just 0.78 ?0.83 ?0.50 ?0.80
After 0.74 ?0.76 ?0.49 ?0.45
Dry-cleaning Before 0.78 ?0.83 ?0.50 ?0.80
After 0.75 ?0.77 ?0.49 ?0.55
Size changing rate (broadwise) Washing 0.0 ?0.0 ?0.0 ?2.5
Dry-cleaning 0.0 ?0.0 ?0.0 ?0.5
The fastener phenomenon ?◎ ?◎
Burst forth phenomenon ?◎ ?○ ?◎
Loftiness ?◎ ?◎
Purposes The shoulder pad lining cloth The shoulder pad lining cloth Predecessor's part lining cloth The shoulder pad lining cloth
Overall merit ?◎ ?◎ ?△

Claims (6)

1. lining cloth compound silk, it is characterized in that, described lining cloth compound silk is many core silk fibers and is configured in the lining cloth compound silk that these core silk fibers filament is on every side formed, described core silk fiber is that the thermoplastic synthetic fiber of 10dtex-50dtex constitutes by the monofilament fineness scope, described filament is made of a kind of silk selecting filament fiber of forming less than the thermoplastic synthetic fiber of 10dtex from monofilament fineness and the weaving silk of monofilament fineness less than 10dtex at least, and described lining cloth constitutes by described core silk fiber and filament are carried out twisting processing with the twisting coefficient of 4500-20000 with compound silk.
2. lining cloth compound silk as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, at least a kind of fiber that is selected from described core silk fiber and the filament fiber is dyeed.
3. lining cloth compound silk as claimed in claim 1 is characterized in that, described filament fiber is made of automatic elongation silk or false twist yarn.
4. the lining cloth cloth and silk is characterized in that, described lining cloth cloth and silk is the lining cloth cloth and silk with organizine and tram, as at least a kind of silk that constitutes in described organizine and the tram, uses as each described lining cloth compound silk in the claim 1 to 3.
5. lining cloth cloth and silk as claimed in claim 4 is characterized in that, contains described lining cloth compound silk in described tram, contains the hot sticky fiber of 5%-30% simultaneously in described organizine.
6. lining cloth cloth and silk as claimed in claim 5 is characterized in that, described hot sticky fiber is made of the core-sheath-type compound silk that core and sheath portion form, and the while melting range of described sheath portion is 100 ℃-160 ℃, and the fusing point of described core is than the fusing point height of sheath portion.
CNB2004100010122A 2003-01-16 2004-01-16 Compund fibre for lining cloth and textiles for lining cloth Expired - Fee Related CN100381623C (en)

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CN101268227B (en) * 2005-09-20 2011-05-18 日本海盟工业株式会社 Moldable interlining cloth for clothes
CN103320939A (en) * 2013-06-24 2013-09-25 长兴圣帆纺织有限公司 High-strength environment-friendly lining cloth
WO2018113764A1 (en) * 2016-12-23 2018-06-28 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Filling object
CN114144549A (en) * 2019-08-02 2022-03-04 韩国商东丽先端素材股份有限公司 Core-sheath composite false-twisted yarn and preparation method thereof
CN116080207A (en) * 2022-11-09 2023-05-09 福建德良提花织造科技有限公司 Laminated composite cloth and preparation method thereof

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JP4745791B2 (en) * 2005-10-26 2011-08-10 東洋紡績株式会社 Adhesive interlining fabric, method for producing the same, and adhesive interlining
JP2009167552A (en) * 2008-01-15 2009-07-30 Tokai Thermo Kk Padding cloth fabric for clothes, and clothes
CN114875550B (en) * 2022-04-27 2023-10-03 维柏思特衬布(南通)有限公司 Green garment interlining processing method and processing equipment

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DE69029849T2 (en) * 1989-10-03 1997-06-12 Kanebo Ltd ELASTIC COMPOSITE THREAD AND ITS PRODUCTION METHOD
CN1185816A (en) * 1995-05-25 1998-06-24 美国3M公司 Undrawn, tough, durable fusion bonded, coarse denier thermoplastic multicomponent filament fiber
WO2000036200A1 (en) * 1998-12-16 2000-06-22 Mitsui Chemicals, Inc. Composite-fiber nonwoven fabric
JP3895212B2 (en) * 2002-04-12 2007-03-22 エヌアイ帝人商事株式会社 Standing blank fabric and mop for cleaning

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
CN101268227B (en) * 2005-09-20 2011-05-18 日本海盟工业株式会社 Moldable interlining cloth for clothes
CN103320939A (en) * 2013-06-24 2013-09-25 长兴圣帆纺织有限公司 High-strength environment-friendly lining cloth
WO2018113764A1 (en) * 2016-12-23 2018-06-28 东丽纤维研究所(中国)有限公司 Filling object
CN114144549A (en) * 2019-08-02 2022-03-04 韩国商东丽先端素材股份有限公司 Core-sheath composite false-twisted yarn and preparation method thereof
CN114144549B (en) * 2019-08-02 2023-10-31 韩国商东丽先端素材股份有限公司 Core-sheath type composite false twisted yarn and preparation method thereof
CN116080207A (en) * 2022-11-09 2023-05-09 福建德良提花织造科技有限公司 Laminated composite cloth and preparation method thereof

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JP4460836B2 (en) 2010-05-12
CN100381623C (en) 2008-04-16

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