CN1396817A - Skin care compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to topical liquid cosmetic compositions for causing an immediate improvement in the appearance and feel of the skin, in particular for providing a more even skin tone. The composition contains: a) 0.3% to 1.5% of an optically neutral phyllosilicate; and b) when applied to the skin or a skin substitute at a coverage of 2.4 mg ^cm An effective amount of green pigment with a color shift value of Δa from -1 to -5 and a color shift value of Δb from -2 to -5; wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%. In a second aspect of the invention, the composition contains: a) 0.3% to 1.5% of an optically neutral phyllosilicate; and b) green flake-like interference pigments, the _TiO2 layer having a thickness of 120nm to 160nm or Integer multiples thereof, the content is 0.1% to 0.5% of the weight of the composition; wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%. The composition is preferably an oil-in-water emulsion.

Description

skin care composition

technical field

The present invention relates to the field of topical compositions for improving the appearance and feel of human skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to topical compositions that provide good coverage of skin imperfections such as pores and uneven skin tone while maintaining the natural skin appearance. The compositions of the invention are especially suitable for the cosmetic treatment of non-facial parts of the body, especially the hands.

background

Topical cosmetic compositions, such as skin creams and lotions, and the like, can be designed to provide various post-application benefits to the skin, such as moisturization, skin protection, and improvements in the feel and appearance of the skin. These benefits may be purely cosmetic or may be provided through the use of long-acting active ingredients capable of regulating the condition of the skin including the regulation of fine lines, wrinkles and other forms of uneven or rough surface texture associated with aging or photodamaged skin . Ideally, a skin care product would not only provide longer-term benefits, but would also result in immediate and noticeable improvements such as increased skin smoothness. Commercial success additionally requires that the product have in-use aesthetics, ie, it can be easily rubbed in without feeling greasy or sticky.

It is known to counteract skin redness with green pigments. For example, WO 96/03962 describes a cosmetic composition for this purpose containing _TiO2- coated mica interfering pigments, and US 5,690,916 describes a method for making dark parts of the skin (spots, freckles, etc.) inconspicuous by using the same materials. method.

While prior art compositions and disclosures provide useful suggestions in the field of cosmetic skin treatments, there are many ways to provide skin, especially non-facial parts of the body, especially environmentally affected parts of the body such as the hands and skin. There remains a need for improved compositions with an immediate improvement in appearance. It is also desirable that the composition be non-greasy and easy to spread.

In particular, it has now been found that improved skin feel and appearance for a variety of skin tones can be obtained by using controlled amounts of optically neutral and colored tabular particles in liquid topical compositions, preferably oil-in-water emulsions . It has been found that prior art compositions containing large amounts of interfering pigments or containing no optically neutral tabular particles do not provide the same degree of color control. The skin smoothing effect and in-use aesthetics of compositions according to the invention are particularly enhanced when the composition contains an oil phase with a degree of spreadability and lubricity suitable for tabular particle systems.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic methods of improving the feel and appearance of skin by topical application of the subject compositions, particularly to provide a more even skin tone.

Summary of the invention

In a first aspect, the present invention relates to a topical liquid cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

a) from about 0.3% to about 1.5% optically neutral phyllosilicate; and

b) Color shift values for Δa and -2 to -5 for Δa and -2 to -5 when applied to skin or skin substitutes at a coverage of 2.4 mg cm- ² an effective amount of green pigment;

Wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%.

In a second aspect, the present invention relates to a liquid cosmetic composition for topical application, preferably in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, comprising:

a) from about 0.3% to about 1.5% optically neutral phyllosilicate; and

b) Green flaky interference pigments, the thickness of the _TiO2 layer is 120nm to 160nm or an integer multiple thereof, and the content is 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of the composition;

Wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%.

The compositions are suitable for imparting a substantially immediate visual improvement in skin appearance and feel while maintaining the natural skin appearance.

The present invention also relates to cosmetic methods for improving the appearance and feel of skin by topical application of the subject compositions.

Detailed description of the invention

As used herein, all percentages and ratios are by weight of the total composition and all measurements made are at 25°C, unless otherwise specified. All publications mentioned herein are incorporated herein by reference.

All publications cited herein are incorporated by reference in their entirety.

"Topical liquid cosmetic composition" means a wet or oily composition intended to be rubbed into the skin. Preferred compositions are in the form of lotions, creams or gels.

The term "dermatologically acceptable" herein means that the composition or component is suitable for contact with human skin without undue toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and the like.

Herein the term "safe and effective amount" refers to the amount of the compound or composition used to produce significant beneficial effects, preferably beneficial skin appearance or skin effects, respectively including the various benefits mentioned herein, but avoiding serious side effects, If a reasonable ratio of benefit to harm is produced, the dosage is within the reasonable judgment range of the technical personnel.

The term "optically neutral" means that the material produces no net color change when applied to the skin alone other than the possibility of lightening or darkening the skin tone. Preferably neither Δa nor Δb for an optically neutral material has a color shift value of more than one unit, more preferably no more than half a unit, as defined in the section entitled "Green Pigments". These materials are generally colorless, white or milky white in overall appearance.

Useful active and other ingredients are categorized or described herein by their cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or their postulated mode of action. It should be understood, however, that the active and other ingredients useful herein may in some instances provide more than one cosmetic and/or therapeutic benefit or operate via more than one mode of action. Accordingly, classifications are made herein for convenience and are not intended to limit ingredients to the applications specifically stated or listed.

Topical compositions suitable for use in the subject invention may be formulated in a variety of product forms such as are known in the art. Preferred compositions have sufficient consistency or flow point to impede settling of particles.

Preferred compositions contain a hydrophilic diluent for the skin. Suitable hydrophilic diluents include water, organic hydrophilic diluents such as C ₁ -C ₄ monohydric alcohols and low molecular weight diols and polyols, including propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol (e.g., molecular weight 200-600), polypropylene glycol (e.g. molecular weight 425-2025), glycerol, butanediol, 1,2,4-butanetriol, sorbitol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, ethanol, isopropanol, sorbitol esters, Ethoxylated ethers, propoxylated ethers and mixtures thereof. The diluent is preferably a liquid. Water is a particularly preferred diluent. The compositions preferably comprise at least about 60% hydrophilic diluent.

Highly preferred carriers include emulsions, which contain a hydrophilic phase, especially an aqueous phase, and a hydrophobic phase, such as lipids, oils or oily substances. As is well known to those skilled in the art, the hydrophilic phase is dispersed in the hydrophobic phase, or vice versa, forming a hydrophilic or hydrophobic dispersed continuous phase, respectively, depending on the ingredients of the composition. In emulsion technology, the term "dispersed phase" is a well-known term for those skilled in the art and means that the phase exists in the form of small particles or droplets suspended in and surrounded by the continuous phase. The dispersed phase is also called the internal or discontinuous phase. The emulsion can be or comprise (for example in a three-phase or other multi-phase emulsion) an oil-in-water emulsion or a water-in-oil emulsion, such as a water-in-silicone emulsion. A typical oil-in-water emulsion contains about 1% to about 5% (preferably about 1% to about 30%) of a dispersed hydrophobic phase and about 1% to about 99% (preferably about 40% to about 90%) of a continuous hydrophilic phase. Aqueous phase; a typical water-in-oil emulsion contains from about 1% to about 98% (preferably from about 40% to about 90%) of the dispersed hydrophilic phase and from about 1% to about 50% (preferably from 1% to about 30%) continuous hydrophobic phase. Emulsions can also include gel networks, such as G.M. Eccleston, Application of Emulsion Stability Theories to Mobile and Semisolid O/W Emulsions, Cosmetics and Toiletries (Cosmetics & Toiletries), Vol. 101, November 1996, pp. 73-92, which is incorporated herein by reference. Highly preferred compositions of the present invention are oil-in-water emulsions.

Preferred compositions have an apparent viscosity of from about 5,000 to about 200,000 mPa.s (centipoise). For example, preferred lotions have an apparent viscosity of from about 10,000 to about 40,000 mPa.s; preferred creams have an apparent viscosity of from about 60,000 to about 160,000 mPa.s. Apparent viscosity may be measured with a Brookfield DV11 RV viscometer, spindle TD, at 5 rpm, or using its equivalent. After the prepared composition is stabilized (generally, the composition is stabilized at 25°C±1°C and ambient pressure for 24 hours after preparation), the composition is subjected to a viscosity measurement. Viscosity measurements were performed on the compositions after 30 seconds of spindle rotation at 25°C ± 1°C.

Generally, the compositions of the present invention are formulated to have a pH of 8.5 or lower, and typically have a pH in the range of from about 4.5 to about 7.5, more preferably from about 5 to about 6.5. Some compositions, particularly those containing additional actives such as salicylic acid, require a lower pH for the additional active to be fully effective. Typically, these compositions are formulated to have a pH of from about 2.5 to about 5, more preferably from about 2.7 to about 4. Optically neutral phyllosilicates

An essential ingredient of the compositions of the present invention is an optically neutral phyllosilicate that both enhances skin feel and contributes to the net color change through the action of the composition. Phylosilicates are a subclass of silicates in which the atoms are arranged in weakly bonded layers so that when ground they form layered particles. Phylosilicates, as a class comprising many subclasses, are described, for example, on the Internet at http://mineral.galleries.com/minerals/silicate/phyllosi.htm . A number of individual subclasses are also introduced in the 4th edition of the Kirk-Othmer Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology. Preferred subclasses include kaolinite, montmorillonite, talc and mica. Most preferred are talc and mica, especially mica. The layered structure of phyllosilicates gives a smooth feel when applied to the skin. From appearance and skin feel, the most preferred material is optically neutral titanium-coated mica. These optically neutral titanium-coated micas are commercially available, suitable materials include Microna Matte White from Rona, a division of Merck.

Optically neutral phyllosilicates are typically present at a level of from about 0.3% to about 1.5%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 1.3%, more preferably from about 0.6% to about 1.0%. Lower levels will not impart the skin feel or color conditioning benefits of the present invention, while higher levels will give a heavy feel or appearance.

The largest dimension of all particle sizes of optically neutral phyllosilicates is preferably in the range of about 0.1 to about 100 μm, more preferably in the range of about 0.5 to about 20 μm, and the thickness is preferably about 100 to about 1500 nm . green paint

Another essential ingredient of the composition of the first aspect of the present invention is that when applied to the skin or a skin substitute at a coverage of 2.4 mg cm ^-2 , it can be provided to compositions -1 to -5, preferably -2 An effective amount of a green pigment for a color shift value of Δa to -4 and a color shift value of Δb of -2 to -5, preferably -2 to -4, more preferably -2 to -3. The experimental method for measuring color shift values is detailed below. A color shift within the required range has been found to be effective in reducing skin redness without producing an unnatural green tint on darker skin tones. In this way, the green pigment helps to provide an overall even skin tone. The same Δa color shift without the concomitant Δb color shift is acceptable for normally light colored skin such as Caucasian skin tones, but has been found to give a greenish perception on darker skin tones. Use of the optically neutral phyllosilicates described herein with green pigments can result in desired color shifts that are acceptable to many skin types.

While the desired color shift is undoubtedly that of human skin, it has been found to be closely approximated by in vitro testing. The color shift claimed therefore refers to the color shift determined in the in vitro test described below.

A flat piece of absorbent translucent surgical glove is placed on a standard red tile (absorbent surface facing up), illuminated by a D65 light source at an angle of 25° to the normal, measured at an angle of 10° to the normal A suitable reflection spectrophotometer (eg Minolta CM-512M3) measures the color of the entire system. It has been found that for testing purposes, the glove-on-tile setup mimics the texture and color of human skin very well. The tiles used should be the "red" flakes from the standard color chart (Macbeth Color Checker) supplied by Macbeth Munsell Colour, New York, USA. The type of glove is not particularly critical. However the type used for this application is the Biogel Surgical Glove supplied by Regent Hospital Products of Broxbourne, UK. The measured color of the glove placed on the tile was used to generate a set of baseline L, a, b values. The composition to be tested for color shifting was then applied to the glove at a coverage of 2.4 mg cm ^-2 using a presaturated finger cot and rubbed in for 30 seconds. The product was then dried for 10 minutes, and the color was remeasured in the same manner as before to generate a set of post-treatment L, a, b values. The L, a, b baseline values are subtracted from the post-treatment L, a, b values to obtain the ΔL, Δa, and Δb values for the composition. These values are used exclusively to characterize the color shift. Values from ten replicates should be averaged.

Suitable green pigments include interference and reflective pigments. Suitable reflective pigments include chromium hydroxides such as those available under the tradenames Chroma Lite Aqua 4508 from ISP Van Dyck and H Chrome Green 105 from Presperse, and chromium oxides such as Chroma Lite Green and Gemtone Emerald from Mearl. Preferably the green pigment is a platelet-type interference pigment substance having a _TiO2 layer thickness of about 120 nm to about 160 nm or an integer multiple thereof. Preferably, the interfering pigment substance contains platelet mica surrounded by TiO ₂ . The color of the reflected light differs depending on the thickness of the layer. The interfering pigment material used in the present invention contains at least a portion of the pigment material having a _TiO2 layer thickness of about 120 nm to about 160 nm or integer multiples thereof, so that the pigment itself has an overall green color when applied to the skin due to light reflection of the pigment platelets appearance. Interfering pigment substances preferably used in the compositions according to the invention have a TiO ₂ layer thickness of about 150 nm to about 250 nm, preferably about 150 nm. Suitable examples are supplied by Merck under the trade name Timiron ^® , especially Timiron ^_ Silk Green, or by Mearl under the trade name Flamenco ^_ , especially Flamenco ^_ Satin Green.

The precise amount of pigment necessary to provide the desired color shift will depend to some extent on the particular type of pigment used. Green pigments are generally present in the compositions of the present invention at levels from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, preferably from about 0.15% to about 0.4%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 0.3%.

In the second aspect of the present invention, the composition contains green flaky interference pigments, the thickness of the _TiO2 layer is 120nm to 160nm or its integral multiple, and the content is 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of the composition.

The largest dimension of all particle sizes of the green pigment is preferably in the range of about 0.1 to about 100 μm, more preferably in the range of about 5 to about 50 μm, and the thickness is preferably about 100 to about 1500 nm.

Other pigments including different colored pigments may also be used in the compositions of the invention provided the overall color shift is within the mentioned ranges. optional components

The topical compositions of the present invention may contain a variety of optional ingredients so long as these optional ingredients are physically and chemically compatible with the essential components described herein and do not unduly impair compatibility with the compositions of the present invention. Relevant stability, efficacy or other benefits of use. Optional components can be dispersed or dissolved in the vehicle of the composition.

Optional components include emollients, oil absorbers, antimicrobials, binders, buffers, denaturants, cosmetic astringents, external analgesics, film formers, humectants, opacifiers, fragrances, pigments , skin penetration enhancers, solvents, suspending agents, emulsifiers, cleansers, thickeners, solubilizers, waxes, sunscreens, non-sun tanning agents, antioxidants and/or free radical scavengers, chelating agents , anti-inflammatory agents, peeling/exfoliating agents, organic hydroxy acids, vitamins and natural extracts. Non-exclusive examples of these substances are described in Harry's Cosmetology , 7th Edition, Harry and Wilkinson (Hill Publisher, London, 1982); Pharmaceutical Formulations - Dispersion Systems ; Lieberman, Rieger and Banker, Vol. 1 (1988) and Vol. 2 volumes (1989), Marcel Decker Ltd; Chemistry and Manufacture of Cosmetics , 2nd ed., de Navarre (yan Nostrand 962-1965) and Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology , 1st ed., Knowlton and Pearce (Elsevier 1993). They can also be used in the present invention. 1. Organic granular matter

Preferred compositions of the present invention contain organic particulate material having a refractive index of 1.3-1.7 dispersed in the composition and having a volume average particle size in the range of about 5 to about 30 microns, preferably about 8 to 25 microns. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that the organic particulate particles, having a diameter at least equal to the oil layer produced by the composition of the present invention on the skin, act as a non-greasy emollient, thereby improving overall skin feel. The volume average particle size is determined when the particulate material is in the form of a powder in neat (ie essentially pure) form prior to association with the carrier of the present invention. However, specific methods of measuring particle size may require that the particulate material be dispersed in an inert carrier such as pure oil in order to determine the particle size distribution. Particle size may be determined by any suitable method known in the art, for example by using a Coulter counter or ASTM designation E20-85" Particle Size Analysis Standard for Particulate Matter from 0.2 to 75 microns by Light Microscopy Method (Standard Practice for Particulate Size Analysis of Particulate Substances in the Range of 0.2 to 75 Micrometers by Optical Microscopy)", ASTM Volume 14.02, 1993.

The refractive index can be measured by a conventional method. For example, a method for determining the refractive index suitable for use in the present invention is described in J.A. Dean, edited, Lange's Handbook of Chemistry, 14th Edition, McGraw Hill, New York, 1992 Section 9, Refractive Methods. The refractive index is preferably from about 1.35 to about 1.6, a range that closely matches the refractive index of skin.

The compositions of the present invention preferably contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 5%, especially from about 0.5% to about 2%, of organic particulate material.

Preferred granular materials are free-flowing, porous materials, especially particles having a spherical shape. Suitable organic particulate materials include polymethylsilsesquioxane (mentioned in the above reference), polyamide, polyethylene, polyacrylonitrile, polyacrylic acid, polymethacrylic acid, polystyrene, polytetrahydroethylene (PTFE) and poly(vinylidene chloride) particles. Copolymers produced from monomers of the aforementioned substances can also be used. Polyamides are preferred, especially nylon. Particularly preferred herein are porous nylon particles having a volume average particle size in the range of about 15 to about 25 microns. Suitable nylon particles are commercially available from Elf Atochem SA (Paris, France) under the tradename ^Orgasol® .

The composition may contain other inorganic or organic particulate materials. However, it is preferred that the organic particulate material in the composition of the invention consists essentially of the particulate material described in the section entitled "Organic Particulate Material". 2. Inorganic matting agent

Another optional component of the compositions of the present invention is an inorganic matting agent, such as titanium oxide or zinc oxide. However, when present, matting agents are used at no more than 3% to avoid undesired skin whitening or an unnatural "masked" appearance. Preferred for use in the present invention is titanium dioxide, especially anatase titanium dioxide.

Anatase titanium oxide has a density of about 3.90 g/cm ³ and a tetragonal, cubic close-packed structure. The refractive index of anatase titanium oxide is 2.55. Anatase titanium dioxide is commercially available from Kobo Products, Inc. under the tradename Kobo BTD 11 S2, from Whittaker (Clark, Daniels, South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA) under the product name TiO ₂ 9729, and from Cardre Corporation ( South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA) is commercially available under the tradename Carde 70429.

Matting agents preferred for use in the present invention are encapsulated pigments in view of skin feel, skin appearance and emulsion compatibility. Pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids such as lysine, polysiloxanes, lauroyl compounds, collagen, polyethylene, lecithin and ester oils. Preferred matting agents are silicone (silicone) treated pigments such as silicone treated titanium dioxide. First choice, silicone-treated anatase titanium dioxide.

A highly preferred matting agent is one that has been coated with a silicone component selected from polyorganosiloxanes or silanes, wherein the hydrogen potential of the coated pigment is less than about 2.0, preferably less than about 1.0, more preferably less than about 0.5 ml, especially less than about 0.1 ml H ₂ /g coated pigment. Pigments are added to the oil phase of the compositions herein. The coating used may be bound to the pigment surface by covalent bonding, physisorption or adhesion, preferably by covalent bonding. The function of the encapsulation here is to hydrophobically modify the pigments so that they are "wettable" in the oil phase of the oil-in-water emulsion.

If used, the total concentration of inorganic matting agents may be from about 0% to about 3%, and preferably from about 0.1% to about 2.5%, preferably from about 0.25% to 2%. 3. Active ingredients for long-term conditioning of skin condition

In a highly preferred embodiment, the compositions of the present invention contain a safe and effective amount of an active ingredient selected from the group consisting of vitamin _B3 compounds, retinoids, and combinations thereof for long-term conditioning of the skin condition. The aforementioned compounds can cause a sticky feeling when used alone, especially at high levels. However, it has been found that this sticky feeling can be counteracted by using the organic particles of the present invention. The compositions of the present invention preferably contain from about 0.1% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.3% to about 10%, even more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, active ingredient. Specific examples of these active ingredients include the following compounds. A. Vitamin _B3 Compound

As used herein, "vitamin _B3 compound" refers to a compound having the following formula:

wherein R is _-CONH2 (ie, nicotinamide), -COOH (ie, niacin), or _-CH2OH (ie, nicotinol); derivatives thereof and salts of any of the foregoing.

Exemplary derivatives of the aforementioned vitamin _B3 compounds include nicotinic acid esters, including non-vasodilating esters of nicotinic acid, nicotinyl amino acids, nicotinyl alcohol esters of carboxylic acids, nicotinic acid N-oxide, and nicotinamide N-oxide. As used herein, "non-vasodilating" means that esters do not often produce a visible flushing response following application of the present composition to the skin (most normal people will not experience a visible flushing response, although such compounds may cause invisible flushing to the naked eye. vasodilation, i.e. the ester is non-erythrotic). Non-vasodilating esters of niacin include tocopheryl nicotinate and inositol hexanatinate; tocopheryl nicotinate is preferred.

Other derivatives of vitamin _B3 compounds are nicotinamide derivatives resulting from substitution of one or more amido hydrogens. Examples of nicotinamides suitable for use in the present invention include nicotinyl amino acids (obtained, for example, from the reaction of an activated nicotinic acid compound (such as nicotinic acid azide or nicotinyl chloride) with an amino acid) and organic carboxylic acids (such as C1-C18) of nicotinol esters. Specific examples of such derivatives include nicotinyl glycine (C ₈ H ₈ N ₂ O ₃ ) and nicotinyl hydroxamic acid (C ₆ H ₆ N ₂ O ₂ ). Exemplary nicotinol esters include nicotinol esters of the carboxylates salicylic acid, acetic acid, glycolic acid, palmitic acid, and the like. Other non-limiting examples of vitamin _B3 compounds useful in the present invention are 2-chloronicotinamide, 6-methylnicotinamide, N-methylnicotinamide, and nicotinamide.

Examples of the aforementioned vitamin _B3 compounds are well known in the art and are available from many sources such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louts, MO); ICN Biomedicals Company (Irvin, CA) and Aldrich Chemical Company (Milwaukee, WI).

One or more vitamin _B3 compounds may be used in the present invention. Preferred vitamin _B3 compounds are niacinamide and tocopheryl nicotinate. Niacinamide is more preferred.

Salts of vitamin _B3 compounds may also be used. Examples that can be used in the present invention include organic or inorganic salts such as inorganic salts formed with anionic inorganic substances (eg chlorides) and organic acid carboxylates. These and other salts of vitamin _B3 compounds are readily prepared by those skilled in the art, for example W. Wenner "Reaction of L-ascorbic acid and D-isoascorbic acid with niacin and its amides", Journal of Organic Chemistry, Vol. 14, 22 - as described on page 26 (1949). Wenner describes the synthesis of the ascorbate salt of nicotinamide.

In a preferred embodiment, the ring nitrogen of the vitamin _B3 compound is uncomplexed, or becomes uncomplexed after delivery to the skin. More preferably, the vitamin _B3 compound is essentially uncomplexed. Thus, if a salt or other complexed form of the vitamin _B3 compound is included in the composition, such complexing is preferably substantially reversible when the composition is applied to the skin. This complex should be substantially reversible at a pH of about 5.0 to about 6.0. Such reversibility is readily determined by one of ordinary skill in the art. In preferred embodiments, the vitamin _B3 compound generally contains less than about 50% of the compound in salt form.

The vitamin _B3 compound may be included as substantially pure material, or as an extract by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from a natural (eg plant) source. The vitamin _B3 compound is preferably substantially pure, which means that it is substantially free of impurities when obtained from a natural source. Substantially pure compounds may be provided in solution, optionally containing antioxidants or other stabilizers. B. Retinoids

As used herein, "retinoids" include all natural and/or synthetic analogues of vitamin A or retinol analog compounds having the biological activity of vitamin A in the skin, as well as geometric and stereoisomers of these compounds. things. The retinoid is preferably retinol, retinyl esters (e.g. _C2 - _C22 alkyl esters of retinol, including retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate, retinyl propionate), retinal and/or retinoic acid (including all trans-retinoic acid and/or 13-cis-retinoic acid) or esters thereof, such as tocopheryl retinoate, preferably retinoids other than retinoic acid. These compounds are well known in the art and are commercially available from a number of sources such as Sigma Chemical Company (St. Louts, MO) and Boerhinger Mannheim (Indianapolis, IN). Other retinoids useful in the present invention are described in US Patent 4,677,120 (issued June 30, 1987 to Parish et al); US Patent 4,885,311 (issued December 5, 1989 to Parish et al); issued to Purcell et al. on June 23, 1992); US Patent 5,124,356 (issued to Purcell et al. on June 23, 1992) and US Patent 34,075 (issued to Purcell et al. on September 22, 1992). Preferred retinoids are retinyl esters such as retinyl palmitate, retinyl acetate and retinyl propionate. Retinyl propionate and retinyl palmitate are preferred.

The retinoids may be added as substantially pure starting material, or in a form extracted by suitable physical and/or chemical isolation from natural (eg, plant) sources. The retinoids are preferably substantially pure starting materials.

The compositions of the present invention optionally contain a safe and effective amount of a retinoid, such that the resulting composition safely and effectively regulates the condition of the skin, preferably a visible and/or tactile discontinuity in the skin, more preferably Signs of skin aging, and even more preferably, visible and/or tactile unevenness in skin texture associated with skin aging are addressed. The compositions preferably contain from about 0.005% to about 2%, more preferably from 0.01% to about 2%, of a retinoid. Retinol is preferably used at about 0.01% - or about 0.15%; retinol esters are preferably used at about 0.01% - about 2% (eg, about 1%); retinoic acid is preferably used at about 0.01% % to about 0.25%; tocopheryl retinoate is preferably used in an amount of about 0.01 to about 2%. The composition may contain both a retinoid and a vitamin B3 compound. 4. Skin softener

The topical compositions of the present invention comprise from about 1% to about 50%, preferably from about 3% to about 15%, of a dermatologically acceptable emollient. Emollients tend to lubricate the skin, increase the smoothness and suppleness of the skin, prevent or relieve dryness of the skin and/or protect the skin. Skin emollients are generally oily or waxy substances that are immiscible with water. A wide variety of suitable skin emollients are known and can be used in the present invention. Sagarin, Cosmetics, Science and Technology 2nd Edition, Vol. 1, pp. 32-43 (1972) describes many examples of materials suitable as skin emollients. Illustrative examples of emollients include: i) straight and branched chain hydrocarbons having from about 7 to about 40 carbon atoms, such as dodecane, squalane, cholesterol, hydrogenated polyisobutylene, isohexadecane, and C ₇ -C ₄₀ isoparaffins, which are C ₇ -C ₄₀ branched chain hydrocarbons. ii) C ₁ -C ₃₀ alcohol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and C ₂ -C ₃₀ dicarboxylic acids, such as isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, myristyl propionate, stearyl isopropyl behenate, behenyl behenate, dioctyl maleate, diisopropyl adipate and diisopropyl dilinoleate. iii) Mono-, di- and triglycerides of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids and their ethoxylated derivatives, eg tricaprylic/capric glyceride, PEG-6 tricaprylic/capric glyceride. iv) Alkylene glycol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, such as ethylene glycol mono- and propylene glycol mono- and diesters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acids, for example ethylene glycol distearate. v) C ₁ -C ₃₀ mono- or polyesters of sugars and related substances. These esters consist of a sugar or polyol moiety and one or more carboxylic acid moieties. Depending on the constituent acids and sugars, these esters can be in liquid or solid form at room temperature. Examples thereof include: glucose tetraoleate, galactose tetraoleate of oleic acid, sorbitol tetraoleate, sucrose tetraoleate, sucrose pentaoleate, sucrose hexaoleate, sucrose heptaoleate, Sucrose octaoleate, sorbitan hexaester in which the carboxylate moieties are in a 1:2 molar ratio of palmitoleate and arachidic acid esters and in which the carboxylate moieties used for esterification are in a 1:3:4 molar ratio of lauryl Sucrose octaesters of linoleate, linoleate and behenate. Other materials include cottonseed oil or soybean oil fatty acid esters of sucrose. Further examples of such materials can be found in WO 96/16636, which is hereby incorporated by reference. A particularly preferred material is the INCI name sucrose polycottonate. vi) Organopolysiloxane oils. The organopolysiloxane oil can be a volatile, nonvolatile or a mixture of volatile and nonvolatile silicones. "Non-volatile" herein means that the polysiloxane is liquid at ambient conditions and has a flash point (at one atmosphere) of greater than about 100°C. Herein, the term "volatile" refers to all other silicone oils. Suitable organopolysiloxanes can be selected from a wide variety of polysiloxanes, covering various volatility and viscosity ranges. Non-volatile polysiloxanes are preferred. Suitable polysiloxanes are disclosed in US Patent 5,069,897 (issued December 3, 1991). Preferred organopolysiloxanes for use in the present invention are selected from the group consisting of polyalkylsiloxanes, alkyl-substituted polydimethylsiloxanes, dimethiconols, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and its mixture. More preferred for use herein are polyalkylsiloxanes and cyclomethicones. Polydimethylsiloxane is preferred among the polyalkylsiloxanes. vii) Vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils. Examples of vegetable oils and hydrogenated vegetable oils include safflower oil, castor oil, coconut oil, cottonseed oil, menhaden oil, palm kernel oil, palm oil, peanut oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, linseed oil, rice bran oil, pine oil, sesame oil, Sunflower seed oil, partially or fully hydrogenated oils from the aforementioned sources and mixtures thereof. viii) Animal fats or oils such as cod liver oil, lanolin and their derivatives such as acetylated lanolin and lanolin isopropyl ester. Lanolin oil is preferred. ix) C ₄ -C ₂₀ alkyl esters of polypropylene glycol, C ₁ -C ₂₀ carboxylic acid esters and di-C ₈ -C ₃₀ alkyl esters of polypropylene glycol can also be used, examples of which include PPG-14 butyl ether, PPG-15 stearyl ether, dioctyl ether, dodecyl octyl ether and mixtures thereof.

Highly preferred compositions of the present invention contain from about 2% to about 20%, preferably from about 3% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 8%, of an emollient as an emollient having a contact angle of less than about 40°. High spreading oil. These high spreading oils are suitable for spreading the vitamin _B3 compound over the skin and for providing the proper balance of lubricity and spreading throughout the emollient system. Preferably the relative weights of the total emollient system are selected such that the total oil phase has a contact angle of less than about 40°, preferably less than about 35°, more preferably less than about 30°. Preferred high spreading oils are selected from: i) branched chain hydrocarbons having a weight average molecular weight of from about 100 to about 1000, and ii) liquid ester emollients of formula I below:

Formula I wherein R ¹ is selected from H or CH ₃ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently selected from C ₁ -C ₂₀ straight chain or branched chain alkyl, and x is an integer of 1-20.

Suitable examples of branched chain hydrocarbons include isododecane, isohexadecane and isoeicosane. Isohexadecane is preferred. Herein, poly(alpha-olefin) antiblocking agents also generally belong to branched chain hydrocarbons, which will be described in detail below. When using this anti-adhesive agent, it should be considered that its amount should be included in the content range of the above-mentioned high-spreading oil.

Suitable ester emollient materials of formula I above include methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isostearyl neopentanoate, isononyl isononanoate, isodecyl octanoate, Isodecyl Nonanoate, Tridecyl Isononanoate, Myristyl Caprylate, Octyl Nonanoate, Octyl Isononanoate, Myristyl Myristate, Myristyl Neopentanoate, Isostearyl Neopentanoate Ester, Myristyl Caprylate, Myristyl Propionate, Isopropyl Myristate and mixtures thereof. Preferred ester emollients for use herein are isononyl isononanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate, isopropyl stearate, Isopropyl myristate and mixtures thereof.

Particularly preferred high spreading oils for use herein are isohexadecane, isononyl isononanoate, methyl isostearate, isopropyl isostearate or mixtures thereof. 5. Anti-sticking agent

Especially when compositions of the present invention employ increased levels of glycerin or vitamin B3 compounds, especially niacinamide, comprising from about 0.3% to about 4%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 2.5%, more preferably from about 1% to about 2% The anti-sticking agent is beneficial, and the preferred anti-sticking agent is selected from poly(alpha-olefin) and occlusive agent (occlusive agent) with MW of about 260 to about 1000, wherein said occlusive agent is selected from petrolatum, Cetyl ricinoleate and lanolin. Although not fully understood, it appears that poly(alpha-olefin) antiadhesives and occluded antiadhesives work by different mechanisms. Nonetheless, both are effective in reducing the sticky skin sensation associated with high levels of glycerin or vitamin _B3 compounds. Although mixtures of anti-sticking agents are not excluded, the best results are obtained when the anti-sticking agent is selected from only one of these two types.

Suitable poly(alpha-olefins) as described above can be obtained from 1-alkene monomers having from about 6 to about 14 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms, especially from about 8 to about 12 carbon atoms. The poly(alpha-olefin)s useful in the present invention are preferably hydrogenated poly(alpha-olefin) oligomers. The 1-alkene monomers useful in preparing the poly(alpha-olefin) oligomers of the present invention include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene Alkenes, such as branched isomers of 4-methyl-1-pentene, and combinations thereof. Preferred are oligomers of 1-octene to 1-dodecene or combinations thereof. Polydecene is preferred. Suitable polydecenes are available from Mobil Chemical Company (POBox 3140, Edison, NJ 08818, USA) under the tradename ^Puresyn_4 and from BP Amoco (200 E. Randolph Drive, Chicago, IL 60601-7125) under the tradename ^Silkflo_ 364 NF is commercially available.

The preferred anti-sticking agent is petrolatum. 6. Moisturizer

A highly preferred optional component is a humectant, especially of the polyol type. Typical polyols include polyalkylene glycols, more preferably alkylene glycols and their derivatives, including propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and its derivatives, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol Sugar alcohol, erythritol, threitol, pentaerythritol, xylitol, glucitol, mannitol, hexanediol, butylene glycol (such as 1,3-butanediol), hexanetriol (such as 1,2,6-hexanetriol), glycerin, ethoxylated glycerin and propoxylated glycerin.

The present invention can also use sodium 2-pyrrolidone-5-carboxylate, guanidine; glycolic acid and glycolate (such as ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); lactic acid and lactate (such as ammonium and quaternary alkyl ammonium); forms of Aloe vera (such as Aloe vera gel); hyaluronic acid and its derivatives (such as salt derivatives, such as sodium hyaluronate); lactamide monoethanolamine; acetamide monoethanolamine; urea; alcohol; sodium pyroglutamate (NaPCA), water-soluble glyceryl poly(meth)acrylate lubricants (such as Hispagel ^_ ) and mixtures thereof.

The above-mentioned compounds may be added alone or in combination. Preferred humectants are selected from glycerin, glyceryl polyacrylate, urea, panthenol and mixtures thereof. 7. Emulsifier/surfactant

The compositions of the present invention preferably contain emulsifiers and/or surfactants to assist in dispersing and suspending the discontinuous phase within the continuous phase. Surfactants are also useful if the product is intended for skin cleansing. For convenience below, emulsifiers are included within the term "surfactant" herein, and "surfactant" is therefore used to broadly refer to surfactants that function as emulsifiers or other surfactants such as skin cleansers. Known or conventional surfactants may be used in the composition provided that the agent is selected to be chemically and physically compatible with the essential components of the composition and to provide the desired dispersion characteristics. Suitable agents include silicone materials, non-silicone materials and mixtures thereof.

The compositions of the present invention preferably contain from about 0.05% to about 15% of a surfactant or mixture of surfactants. The exact surfactant or mixture of surfactants will be selected based on the pH of the composition and the other components present.

Preferred hydrophilic surfactants are nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants useful in the present invention are those that can be broadly defined as condensation products of long chain alcohols (eg _C8-30 alcohols) with sugar or starch polymers (ie glycosides). These compounds can be represented by the formula (S)nOR, wherein S is a sugar moiety such as glucose, fructose, mannose, and galactose; n is an integer from about 1 to about 1000 and R is a C8-30 alkyl group. Examples of long chain alcohols from which the alkyl group may be provided include decyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, lauryl alcohol, myristyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol, and the like. Preferred examples of these surfactants include those wherein S is a glucose moiety, R is a _C8-20 alkyl group, and n is an integer from about 1 to about 9. Commercially available examples of these surfactants include decyl polyglucoside (available as APG 325 CS from Henkel), and lauryl polyglucoside (available as APG 600 CS and 625 CS from Henkel).

Other useful nonionic surfactants include condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty acids (ie, alkylene oxide esters of fatty acids). These substances have the general formula RCO(X)nOH, where R is a C _10-30 alkyl group and X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (ie hexanediol or ethylene oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (ie derived from propylene glycol or propylene oxide), n is an integer from about 6 to about 200. Other nonionic surfactants are condensation products of alkylene oxides with 2 moles of fatty acids (ie, alkylene oxide diesters of fatty acids). These materials have the general formula RCO(X)nOOCR, where R is a C _10-30 alkyl group, X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (ie, hexanediol or ethylene oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (ie, derived from propylene glycol or propylene oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100. Other nonionic surfactants are condensation products of alkylene oxides with fatty alcohols (ie, alkylene oxide ethers of fatty alcohols). These substances have the general formula R(X)nOR', where R is a C10-30 alkyl group and X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (ie hexanediol or ethylene oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (ie derived from propylene glycol or propylene oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100, and R' is H or C _10-30 alkyl. Still other non-ionic surfactants are condensation products of alkylene oxides with both fatty acids and fatty alcohols [i.e. where the polyalkylene oxide moiety is esterified at one end with a fatty acid and at the other end with a fatty alcohol etherified (via ether linkage)]. These materials have the general formula RCO(X)nOR', where R and R' are C _10-30 alkyl, and X is -OCH ₂ CH ₂ - (ie, hexanediol or ethylene oxide) or -OCH ₂ CHCH ₃ - (i.e. derived from propylene glycol or propylene oxide), and n is an integer from about 6 to about 100, examples of which include ceteth-6, ceteth-10, ceteth-10, Hexaalkyl polyoxyethylene ether-12, ceteareth-6, ceteareth-10, ceteareth-12, steareth-6, steareth-10, steareth-12, PEG-6 stearate, PEG-10 stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-12 Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-80 Glyceryl Butoleate, PEG-10 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate Esters, PEG-80 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Butanoate, PEG-8 Dilaurate, PEG-10 Distearate, and mixtures thereof.

Still other useful nonionic surfactants include the polyhydroxy fatty acid amide surfactants which are described in detail in WO 98/04241.

Preferred nonionic surfactants are selected from steareth-2, steareth-21, ceteareth-20, ceteareth-12, sucrose cocoate, steareth-100, PEG-100 stearate and mixtures thereof.

Other nonionic surfactants suitable for use herein include sugar esters and polyesters, alkoxylated sugar esters and polyesters, C ₁ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ fatty alcohols, C ₁ -C ₃₀ Alkoxylated derivatives of C ₁ -C ₃₀ fatty acid esters of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated ethers of C ₁ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, polyglycerol esters of C ₁ -C ₃₀ fatty acids, C ₁ -C of polyols ₃₀ esters, C ₁ -C ₃₀ ethers of polyols, alkyl phosphates, polyoxyalkylene fatty ether phosphates, fatty acid amides, acyl lactylates and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of these silicon-free surfactants include: Polysorbate 20, Macrogol 5 Soy Sterol, Steareth-20, Ceteareth-20, PPG-2 Methyl Glucose Distearate, Cetyl polyoxyethylene ether-10, polysorbate 80, polysorbate 60, glyceryl stearate, sorbitan monolaurate, polyoxyethylene 4 lauryl ether sodium stearate, Polyglyceryl-4-isostearate, Hexyl Laurate, PPG-2 Methylgluconate Distearate, PEG-100 Stearate, and mixtures thereof.

Another class of emulsifiers suitable for use in the present invention are fatty acid ester blends based on a mixture of sorbitan or sorbitol fatty acid esters and sucrose fatty acid esters, the fatty acids in each case being preferably C ₈ -C ₂₄ , More preferably C ₁₀ -C ₂₀ . A preferred fatty acid ester emulsifier is a blend of sorbitan or sorbitol C ₁₆ -C ₂₀ fatty acid esters with sucrose C ₁₀ -C ₁₆ fatty acid esters, especially sorbitan stearate and sucrose Cocoate blend. It is commercially available from ICI under the tradename Arlatone 2121.

Hydrophilic surfactants useful in the present invention may alternatively or additionally include any of a variety of cationic, anionic, zwitterionic and amphoteric surfactants known in the art. See, eg, McCutcheon, Detergents and Emulsifiers , North American Edition (1986), published by Allured Publishing Company; and US Patent 5,011,681 (Ciotti et al., issued April 30, 1991).

Preferred emulsions of the present invention include silicone-containing emulsifiers or surfactants. A variety of silicone emulsifiers are useful herein. These silicone emulsifiers are typically organically modified organopolysiloxanes, also known to those skilled in the art as silicone surfactants. Useful silicone emulsifiers include dimethicone copolyols. These materials are polydimethylsiloxanes modified to include polyether side chains such as polyethylene oxide chains, polypropylene oxide chains, mixtures of these chains, and polyether chains containing Polyether chains derived from portions of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide. Other examples include alkyl-modified dimethicone copolyols, ie compounds containing _C2 - _C30 pendant side chains. Other useful dimethicone copolyols include those having various cationic, anionic, amphoteric, and zwitterionic side chain moieties. 8. Thickeners (including thickeners and gelling agents)

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a thickening agent, typically from about 0.1% to about 5%, preferably from about 0.25% to about 2%, of a thickening agent.

Suitable thickeners include cellulose and derivatives such as cellulose, carboxymethyl hydroxyethyl cellulose, cellulose acetate propionate carboxylate, hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxyethyl ethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, microcrystalline cellulose, sodium cellulose sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Other useful thickeners include gum arabic, agar, algin, alginic acid, ammonium alginate, pullulan, calcium alginate, calcium carrageenan, carnitine, carrageenan, dextrin, gelatin, Cold Gum, Guar Gum, Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride, Hectorite, Hyaluronic Acid, Hydrated Silica, Hydroxypropyl Chitosan, Hydroxypropyl Guar Gum, Karaya gum, seaweed, locust bean gum, natto gum, potassium alginate, potassium carrageenan, propylene glycol alginate, sclerotin gum, sodium carboxymethyl dextran, sodium carrageenan , tragacanth gum, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof. Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers commercially available under the tradename Carbopol resins from B.F. Goodrich Company are also useful. Suitable Carbopol resins are described in WO98/22085.

Preferred compositions of the present invention contain a thickener selected from the group consisting of carboxylic acid polymers, cross-linked polyacrylates, polyacrylamides, xanthan gum and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from polyacrylamide polymers, xanthan Glues and their mixtures. The preferred polyacrylamide is predispersed in a water-immiscible solvent such as mineral oil or the like, which contains a surfactant (HLB about 7 to about 10) to help promote the water dispersibility of the polyacrylamide. Preferred for use in the present invention are the nonionic polymers with the CTFA designation polyacrylamide and isoparaffin and lauryl ether-7, which are available from Seppic Corporation under the tradename Sepigel 305. 9. Anti-inflammatory agents

A safe and effective amount of anti-inflammatory agent may be added to the composition of the present invention, preferably about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably about 0.1% to about 2% of the composition. Anti-inflammatory agents can enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention, for example, such agents contribute to a more even and acceptable skin tone or color. The exact amount of anti-inflammatory agent used in the composition will depend on the particular anti-inflammatory agent used, since such agents vary widely in potency.

Anti-inflammatory agents useful in the present invention include steroidal anti-inflammatory agents, such as hydrocortisone; non-steroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDS), such as ibuprofen; panthenol and its ether and ester derivatives, such as panthenol Panthenyl ether, panthenyl triacetate; pantothenic acid and its salt and ester derivatives, especially calcium pantothenate; aloe barbadensis, bisabolol, allantoin and compounds of the Glycyrrhizae family (Glycyrrhiza genus/species), Included are glycyrrhetinic acid, glycyrrhizinic acid and derivatives thereof such as salts (eg, ammonium glycyrrhizinate) and esters (stearyl glycyrrhetinate). 10. Sunscreens and sunblocks

The compositions of the present invention may contain a sunscreen. Suitable sunscreens may be organic or inorganic. Particularly preferred sunscreens include butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, 2-ethylhexyl-p-methoxycinnamate, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and octocrylene. Inorganic sunscreens include zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. The exact amount will vary depending on the sunscreen chosen and the sun protection factor (SPF) desired, but inorganic sunscreens are preferably used only at low levels as described above for matting agents. An agent may also be added to any of the compositions useful in the present invention to improve the skin substantivity of the compositions, in particular to increase their resistance to water wash-off or rub-off. A preferred agent that provides this benefit is a copolymer of ethylene and acrylic acid. Compositions containing such copolymers are disclosed in US Patent 4,663,157 (Brock, issued May 5, 1987). 11. Antioxidant/Free Radical Scavenger

Antioxidants/radical scavengers may also be present in the compositions of the present invention. Antioxidants/radical scavengers are particularly useful for providing protection from UV radiation (which can lead to increased desquamation or texture changes of the stratum corneum) and from other environmental agents that cause skin damage. Suitable amounts are from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, of the composition.

Antioxidants/radical scavengers that can be used are, for example, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) and its salts, ascorbic acid esters of fatty acids, ascorbic acid derivatives (e.g. magnesium ascorbyl phosphate), beta-carotene, tocopherol (vitamin E), tocopherol Sorbate, tocopheryl acetate, other esters of tocopherol, butylated hydroxybenzoic acid and its salts, gallic acid and its alkyl esters, especially propyl gallate, uric acid and its salts and alkyl esters, Sorbic acid and its salts, amines (such as N,N-diethylhydroxylamine, amino-guanidine), sulfhydryl compounds (such as glutathione), dihydroxyfumaric acid and its salts, bioflavonoids, Lysine, Methionine, Proline, SOD, Silymarin, Tea Extract, Grape Skin/Seed Extract, Melanin, and Rosemary Extract. Preferred antioxidants/radical scavengers are selected from tocopheryl acetate, tocopheryl sorbate and other esters of tocopherol, more preferably tocopheryl acetate. 12. Chelating agent

The inclusion of chelating agents is particularly useful for providing protection from UV radiation (which causes excessive peeling or changes in skin texture) and from other environmental agents that cause skin damage (which can cause skin damage). Suitable amounts are from 0.01% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 5%, of the composition. Examples of chelating agents useful in the present invention are those disclosed in US Patent 5,487,884. Preferred chelating agents are ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (EDTA), furildioxime and derivatives thereof. 13. Desquamation agent/stripping agent

A safe and effective amount of desquamation agent can be added in the composition of the present invention, more preferably about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably about 0.2% to about 5%, and more preferably about 0.5% to about 4% of the composition. %. Desquamation agents can enhance the skin appearance benefits of the present invention. For example, desquamation agents tend to improve the texture (eg, smoothness) of the skin. Various desquamation agents are known in the art and are suitable for use in the present invention, including organic hydroxy acids such as salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid, 5-octanoyl salicylic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, hydroxycaprylic acid, and lanolin fatty acids. One suitable desquamation system for use in the present invention comprises a sulfhydryl compound and a zwitterionic surfactant and is described in WO 96/01101. Other suitable desquamation systems contain salicylic acid and zwitterionic surfactants and are described in WO 95/13048. Salicylic acid is preferred. 11. Skin lightening agent

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a skin lightening agent. When used, the compositions preferably contain from about 0.1% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.2% to about 5%, still preferably from about 0.5% to about 2%, of a skin lightening agent. Suitable skin lightening agents include those known in the art, including kojic acid, arbutin, ascorbic acid and derivatives thereof, such as magnesium ascorbyl phosphate. Other skin lightening agents suitable for use in the present invention include those described in WO 95/34280 and WO 95/23780. Preparation of the composition

The compositions of the present invention are generally prepared by conventional methods, such as those known in the art for preparing topical compositions. These methods generally involve mixing the ingredients until the ingredients are brought to a relatively homogeneous state in one or more steps, with or without heating, cooling, vacuuming, and the like. Instructions

The compositions of the present invention are useful for providing a more even skin tone, especially on the hands or other non-facial skin of the body.

Compositions of the present invention may be used in various amounts to provide skin appearance and/or sensory benefits. The amount of the composition of the present invention per application is typically from about 0.1 mg/m ² to about 10 mg/m ² in mg composition/cm ² skin. A particularly effective application rate is about 2 mg/m ² . Typical administration is on the order of about once per day, but the frequency of administration can vary from once per week up to three or more per day.

The compositions of the present invention provide a visible improvement in skin condition substantially immediately after application of the composition to the skin. Such immediate improvement includes covering or masking of skin imperfections such as textural discontinuities, including those associated with skin aging such as enlarged pores, and/or providing a more even skin tone or color.

Compositions of the present invention containing actives for chronic regulation of skin condition may also provide visible improvement in skin condition after chronic topical application of the composition. "Chronic topical administration" and the like include continuous topical administration of the composition over a long period of time during the life of the subject, preferably for a period of at least about one week, more preferably for a period of at least about one month, and still more preferably for at least about A period of three months, more preferably a period of at least about six months, and especially preferably a period of at least about one year. Long-term regulation of skin condition involves improvement in skin condition after multiple skin topical applications of the composition. Typical administration is on the order of about once a day for the extended period in question, however, the number of administrations may vary from about once a week up to about three or more times a day.

Example

The following examples further describe and demonstrate embodiments within the scope of the present invention. They are given for the purpose of illustration and should not be construed as limiting the invention. Ingredients are given by CTFA designation when applicable. All examples are oil-in-water emulsions prepared by applying conventional formulation techniques. Example 1 2 3 Element w/w% w/w% w/w% Nicotinamide 2.0 5.0 6.0 retinyl propionate - - 0.2 Nylon-12 ¹ 2.0 3.0 0.5 Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica ² - Green 0.25 0.1 0.5 Titanium Dioxide (and) Mica ³ - White 0.75 1.5 0.5 Polyacrylamide & Isoparaffin & Laureth-7 2.25 2.0 1.0 xanthan gum - - 0.3 Titanium dioxide ⁴ - - 0.3 glycerin 7.0 5.0 3.0 urea - - 2.0 Panthenol 1.0 0.5 3.0 salicylic acid - 1.5 - Allantoin 0.2 0.1 0.05 aloe vera gel 0.01 - 0.05 Tocopheryl acetate 0.5 - 0.05 cetyl alcohol 2.0 1.0 1.25 stearyl alcohol 2.0 1.0 1.25 Cyclomethicone & Dimethiconol 0.75 1.5 0.50 Stearyl ether-21 0.6 0.4 0.3 Stearyl ether-2 0.1 0.08 0.03 Sorbitan Stearate & Sucrose Cocoate 1.5 - - stearyl alcohol 0.5 1.0 1.5 cetyl alcohol 0.5 1.0 1.5 Docosanol 0.5 1.0 1.5 Isohexadecane 3.0 5.0 7.0 Petrolatum 0.5 1.0 2.0 PPG-15 stearyl ether 3.0 5.0 4.00 Sucrose Polycottonate - 3.0 - Dimethylpolysiloxane (350mm ² s ^-1 ) 0.5 - 1.0 Disodium EDTA 0.02 0.01 0.05 Ethyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.1 0.15 0.2 Propylparaben 0.1 0.15 0.2 Methylparaben 0.1 0.15 0.2 Benzyl alcohol 0.5 0.2 1.0 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 - 1.0 spices Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Appropriate amount Deionized water add up to 100% add up to 100% add up to 100% ^{1 Orgasol_2002} EXD NAT COS. ² green interference pigments. ³ Optically neutral titanium dioxide coated mica. ⁴ polysiloxane coated anatase.

When applied to the hands of a subject at a rate of 2 mg/ ^cm2 of skin, provides substantially immediate improvement in skin appearance, such as reduced visibility of pores and more even skin tone. Continuous application at the same rate once or twice daily for 3-6 months not only improves substantially immediate appearance, but also improves skin surface texture, including the reduction of fine lines and wrinkles.

Claims (9)

1. A liquid cosmetic composition for topical use, comprising: a) 0.3% to 1.5% optically neutral phyllosilicates; and b) When applied to skin or skin substitutes at a coverage of 2.4 mg cm ^-2 , it provides a color shift value of Δa for compositions -1 to -5 and a color shift value of Δb for -2 to -5 an effective amount of green pigment; Wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%. 2. The composition of claim 1, wherein the optically neutral phyllosilicate is mica. 3. The composition of claim 1, wherein the green pigment is a flaky interference pigment, the _TiO2 layer has a thickness of 120nm to 160nm or its integer multiples, and the content is 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of the composition. 4. A liquid cosmetic composition for topical use, comprising: a) 0.3% to 1.5% optically neutral phyllosilicates; and b) Green flaky interference pigments, the thickness of the _TiO2 layer is 120nm to 160nm or an integer multiple thereof, and the content is 0.1% to 0.5% by weight of the composition; Wherein the total content of inorganic particles in the composition is less than 5%. 5. The composition of any preceding claim, comprising an oily phase having a contact angle of less than about 40°. 6. A composition according to any preceding claim which is an oil-in-water emulsion. 7. The composition of any preceding claim, wherein additionally containing 0.1% to 10% of organic particulate material having a refractive index of 1.3 to 1.7, the particulate material being dispersed in the composition and having a volume average particle diameter in the range of 5 to 30 μm . 8. A method of providing a more even skin tone comprising topically applying a composition according to any preceding claim. 9. The method of claim 8, wherein the composition is applied to the hands.