CN1379661A - Hair care composition comprising polypropylene glycol and ester oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Hair care compositions include a polypropylene glycol, an ester oil, and a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound, and water. Hair care compositions also include a polypropylene glycol, an ester oil selected from a pentaerythritol ester oil, a trimethylol ester oil, and mixtures thereof, and a suitable carrier. The polypropylene glycol has a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol. The HLB value of the ester oil is less than about 4.

Description

Hair care composition containing polypropylene glycol and ester oil

field of invention

The present invention relates to hair care compositions. More particularly, the present invention relates to hair care compositions that provide conditioning benefits.

Background of the invention

Human hair can become soiled due to contact with the surrounding environment and due to the sebum production of the scalp. Dirty hair gives it a dirty or greasy feel and is not aesthetically pleasing. Dirty hair needs regular shampooing.

Shampoo cleanses hair by removing dirt and excess sebum. But shampooing leaves hair in a damp, tangled, and generally unmanageable state. After shampooing, hair is often left in a dry, tangled, dull, or frizzy state due to the removal of the hair's natural oils and other natural conditioning ingredients. Also, such hair may lose its softness. Also after drying, the static level of the hair may increase, making the hair difficult to comb and reducing the manageability of the hair. This results in hair in a condition commonly referred to as "flyaway". Some consumers find such flyaway hair and the corresponding increase in overall hair volume to be undesirable. It is therefore necessary to provide smooth, soft, silky feel, and healthy looking hair while reducing flyaway hair volume and total hair volume. Furthermore, there is often a need to increase the biodegradability of hair care compositions.

Various methods have been developed to solve these problems. Such methods are generally achieved by incorporating hair conditioning compounds, typically cationic compounds such as cationic surfactants, into hair care compositions in an attempt to enhance smoothness, softness and shine. Such hair conditioning compounds also reduce static. It is theorized that these cationic compounds, including quaternary ammonium compounds, serve to neutralize the static charge on the hair and thereby reduce flyaway hair volume. However, these hair conditioning compounds do not sufficiently reduce overall hair volume and may roughen the hair, skin, or scalp.

One approach has been to incorporate oily compounds such as silicones, ester oils and/or hydrocarbon oils into hair care compositions to reduce flyaways. However, while these oily compounds can make hair feel smoother, silkier and/or appear shiny, they are not sufficient to satisfy some consumers.

Accordingly, there is a need for hair care compositions that significantly reduce the overall hair volume and are readily biodegradable. There is also a need for hair care compositions that provide smoother, softer, silkier and more lustrous hair. There is also a need for hair care compositions that provide these benefits and are effective for deposition on the hair.

Contents of the invention

The present invention relates to hair care compositions comprising polypropylene glycol, ester oil and a gel base. The polypropylene glycol has a weight average molecular weight of about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol. The ester oil has the formula R ¹ COOR ¹ , wherein each R ¹ is independently C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, and the ester oil has an HLB value of less than about 4. The gel matrix includes cationic surfactants, solid fatty compounds and water.

In another aspect, the invention relates to hair care compositions comprising polypropylene glycol, ester oil and a suitable carrier. The polypropylene glycol has a weight average molecular weight of about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol. The ester oil is selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, and mixtures thereof, wherein the ester oils have an HLB value of less than about 4.

It has now been found that the total hair volume is actually the sum of the "flyaway hair volume" and the "bulk hair volume". It has also been found that measurable reductions in bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area measured by the image analysis protocol described herein correspond to bulk hair volume, flyaway hair area, and flyaway hair area, respectively. Significant reduction in hair volume and total hair volume. Accordingly, it has been found that reducing bulk hair area plays an important role in reducing overall hair volume. While some compounds and compositions are known to reduce flyaway hair volume, for example by reducing hair static charge, these compositions do not significantly reduce bulk hair volume. It has now been found that hair care compositions that moisturize the hair significantly reduce bulk hair volume and also significantly reduce flyaway hair volume. The result is a dramatic, noticeable reduction in total hair volume.

It has now been found that hair care compositions, preferably hair conditioning compositions and/or styling compositions, comprising polypropylene glycol, ester oil and a suitable carrier also deposit more effectively on the hair and provide the significant benefits desired by the consumer Effects such as improved hair look and feel, reduced bulk hair volume, reduced flyaway hair volume and reduced total hair volume. Furthermore, the hair care compositions of the present invention can be formulated at low cost, are readily biodegradable, and have a non-oily feel.

These and other features, aspects, advantages and variations of the present invention, as well as the described embodiments, will become apparent to those skilled in the art from a reading of this application and its claims, and are encompassed by these claims In the range.

Description of drawings

Although this specification includes books that specifically point out and clearly limit the protection scope of the present invention, it is believed that the present invention can be better understood by reading the following description in conjunction with the accompanying drawings, wherein:

Figure 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of an image analysis protocol system.

Detailed ways

Herein, all percentages, ratios and proportions are by weight of the final hair care composition, unless otherwise specified. Herein, all molecular weights are weight average molecular weights unless otherwise stated. All temperatures are in degrees Celsius (° C.) unless otherwise indicated. All cited documents are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety. Citation of any document does not imply an admission that any determination thereof exists as prior invention with respect to the present invention. The drawings herein are not necessarily drawn to scale.

The term "alkyl" as used herein refers to a straight chain, branched chain, or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon group. Unless stated otherwise, an alkyl group is preferably a saturated group or an unsaturated group having a double bond, preferably one or two double bonds. The alkyl portion of an acyl group is also included in the term "alkyl".

The term "hair conditioning benefit" as used herein means conditioning, softening, reduction in bulk hair volume, reduction in flyaway hair volume, reduction in total hair volume, moisturization, improved wet hair when applied to the hair and dry hair feel, lubricate, smooth, soften and/or otherwise. All reductions in bulk hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and/or total hair volume are determined according to the image analysis protocol described herein.

The term "water-insoluble" as used herein means that the compound is substantially insoluble in water at 25°C, and when the compound is mixed with water at a concentration of 1.0% by weight or more, preferably 0.5% by weight or more, the compound temporarily disperses to form an insoluble compound in water. A stable colloid, which then rapidly separates into two phases with water.

polypropylene glycol

The hair care compositions of the present invention contain polypropylene glycol having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, preferably from about 1,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the polypropylene glycols of the present invention deposit on or absorb into the hair to function as humectants/humectants and/or provide one or more other desirable hair conditioning benefits. The term "polypropylene glycol" as used herein includes single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers and multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers. The general structure of branched polymers such as the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers herein is described, for example, in "Principles of Polymerization", pp. 17-19, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., ^3rd ed. ., 1991).

The polypropylene glycols of the present invention are generally polydisperse polymers. The polypropylene glycols useful herein have a polydispersity of from about 1 to about 2.5, preferably from about 1 to about 2, more preferably from about 1 to about 1.5. The term "polydispersity" as used herein refers to the degree of molecular weight distribution of a polymer sample. Specifically, polydispersity is a ratio greater than 1 equal to weight average molecular weight divided by number average molecular weight. For further discussion on polydispersity see "Principles of Polymerization", pp. 20-24, G. Odian, (John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 3 ^rd ed., 1991).

Depending on the degree of polymerization and whether other groups are attached, the polypropylene glycols useful in the present invention can be water soluble, water insoluble, or have limited solubility in water. The desired solubility of polypropylene glycol in water depends largely on the type of hair care composition (eg leave-on or rinse-off). The solubility of the polypropylene glycol used in the present invention in water can be selected by those skilled in the art based on various factors. Water-soluble polypropylene glycols are especially suitable, for example, for leave-on products. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that water-soluble polypropylene glycols may have a number of advantages in such products. For example, such polypropylene glycols can be easily formulated, inexpensive, highly biodegradable, and readily available. Thus, for leave-on hair care compositions, the polypropylene glycol herein is preferably a water-soluble polypropylene glycol. Solubility information is readily available from suppliers of polypropylene glycols such as Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan).

However, the invention may also be in the form of a rinse-off hair care composition. While not wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that in such compositions the water soluble polypropylene glycol may be very easily washed off before it is effectively deposited on the hair and provides the desired benefit. Therefore for such compositions polypropylene glycols with low water solubility, or even water insolubility, are preferred. So for rinse-off hair care compositions, the solubility of polypropylene glycol in water at 25° C. is less than about 1 g/100 g water, more preferably less than about 0.5 g/100 g water, even more preferably less than about 0.1 g/100 g water. 100g of water.

Polypropylene glycol is generally present at levels of from about 0.5% to about 10%, preferably from about 2% to about 6%, by weight of the hair care compositions.

Polypropylene glycol is preferably selected from single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers and mixtures thereof, more preferably selected from the following single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers of formula I , Multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers of the following formula II and mixtures thereof. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that these polypropylene glycols offer a good balance of performance, availability, biodegradability and cost.

Mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer

Thus, a highly preferred mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:

HO—(C ₃ H ₆ O) _a H (Formula I), wherein a is a value from about 4 to about 400, preferably from about 20 to about 100, more preferably from about 20 to about 40.

The mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers useful in the present invention are generally less expensive and are readily available from, for example, Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Jqpan), Dow Chemicals (Midland, Michigan, USA), Calgon Chemical, Inc. (Skokie, Illinois, USA), Arco Chemical Co. (Newton Square Pennsylvania, USA), Witco Chemicals Corp. (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA), and PPG Specialty Chemicals (Gurnee, Illinois, USA).

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that once deposited on a strand of hair, the shape and relatively small size of the single polypropylene glycol chain segment polymer allows it to easily penetrate the hair. While useful in leave-on and rinse-off products, single polypropylene glycol chain segmented polymers are especially preferred when the hair care composition is a leave-on product. Also, the multiple propylene oxide groups attract and hold large amounts of water on the hair to impart significant moisturizing properties. This enhanced moisturization results in reduced flyaway hair volume, reduced bulk hair volume and/or enhanced hair manageability.

Multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer

Highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers have the structure: wherein n is a value from about 0 to about 10, preferably from about 0 to about 7, more preferably from about 1 to about 4. In formula II, each R is independently selected from H and C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, and each R is preferably independently selected from H and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl. In Formula II, each b is independently a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1, more preferably b=0. Likewise, c and d independently have a value from about 0 to about 2, preferably from about 0 to about 1. However, the total value of b+c+d is at least about 2, and the total value of b+c+d is preferably from about 2 to about 3. Each e is independently a value of 0 or 1, preferably equal to 1 if n is from about 1 to about 4. In addition, in formula II, x, y and z independently have values from about 1 to about 120, preferably from about 7 to about 100, more preferably from about 7 to about 100, wherein x+y+z is greater than about 20.

Examples of multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers of formula II which are particularly preferred for use in the present invention include polyoxypropylene glyceryl ethers (n=1, R=H, b=0, c and d=1, e=1 , and x, y and z independently represent the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol-chain segments; available under the trade name New Pol GP-4000 from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan), polypropylene trimethylolpropane (n =1, R=C ₂ H ₅ , b=1, c and d=1, e=1, and x, y and z independently represent the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol-chain segments), polypropylene oxide Sorbitol (n=4, each R=H, b=0, c and d=1, each e=1, and y, z and each x independently represent the degree of polymerization of their respective polypropylene glycol-chain segments; Available under the tradename NewPol SP-4000 from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan), and PPG-10 butanediol (n=0, c and d=2, and y+z=10; available under the tradename Probutyl DB-10 from Croda, Inc., Parsippany, New Jersey, USA).

其中a如上文式I中所定义。类似地，高度优选的多-聚丙二醇-链链段聚合物具有下式：其中n、R、b、c、d、e、x、y和z如上文式II中所定义。应当认识到，异丙基氧化物重复基团也可以单独或者与式IV中描述的异构体一起相应于： In a preferred embodiment, the one or more propylene repeat groups in the polypropylene glycol are isopropyl oxide repeat groups. More preferably, the one or more propylene oxide repeat groups of the polypropylene glycol of formula I and/or the polypropylene glycol of formula II are isopropyl oxide repeat groups. Even more preferably, substantially all of the propylene oxide repeat groups of the polypropylene glycol of formula I and/or the polypropylene glycol of formula II are isopropyl oxide groups. Thus, a highly preferred mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the formula:

wherein a is as defined in formula I above. Similarly, highly preferred multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers have the formula: wherein n, R, b, c, d, e, x, y and z are as defined above in formula II. It should be recognized that the isopropyl oxide repeating group may also correspond alone or with the isomers described in Formula IV to:

Ester oil

Ester oils are also present in the hair care compositions of the present invention. Ester oils useful in the present invention have the formula:

R ¹ COOR ¹ (Formula V), wherein each R ¹ is independently C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, preferably at least one R ¹ is C ₈ -C ₂₂ alkyl. Each R ¹ can be a straight or branched alkyl chain. If R ¹ is a branched group, this R ¹ preferably has 2-4 branches. The ester oil has an HLB value of less than about 4, more preferably from about 0 to about 3. Ester oils useful in the present invention should be easy to formulate and process. Thus, ester oils generally have a melting point below about 40°C and are preferably water-insoluble and liquid at 25°C.

The HLB value is a theoretical index value describing the hydrophilic-lipophilic balance of a particular compound. The HLB index typically ranges from 0 (very hydrophobic) to 40 (very hydrophilic). The HLB values of alkyl alkoxylates can be found in tables and graphs known in the art, or can be calculated according to the following general formula: HLB=7+Σ(hydrophobic group value)+Σ(hydrophilic group value). HLB and methods for calculating HLB of compounds are described in detail in "Surfactant Science Series, Vol. 1: Nonionic Surfactants", pp. 606-13, M.J. Schick (Marcel Dekker, Inc., New York, 1966).

Unless otherwise stated, ester oils useful herein having a weight average molecular weight greater than about 70 g/mol, preferably about 100 g/mol to about 2,000 g/mol, more preferably about 160 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol are especially suitable in the present invention. Preferred ester oils useful herein include pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, citrate ester oils, glyceride ester oils, and mixtures thereof.

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the ester oil is effective in delivering polypropylene glycol to the hair, reducing flyaway hair volume, and/or providing other hair conditioning benefits. In addition, the ester oils useful herein provide moisture, smoothness, and manageability to the hair when the hair dries without leaving the hair with a greasy feel. Thus, by the addition of ester oils, hair care compositions are obtained which provide particularly suitable conditioning benefits when the hair is wet as well as after it has been dried. Ester oil may be present at a level of from about 0.5% to about 20%, preferably from about 2% to about 10%, more preferably from about 3% to about 7%, by weight of the composition.

其中R¹、R²、R³和R⁴独立地为具有1-约30个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和、或不饱和烷基、芳基和烷基芳基。优选地，R¹、R²、R³和R⁴独立地为具有约8-约22个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和或不饱和烷基。更优选地，限定R¹、R²、R³和R⁴的定义使得该化合物的重均分子量为约800g/mol-约1,200g/mol。Pentaerythritol ester oils useful in the present invention are compounds of the formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least 800 g/mol:

wherein R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated, or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to about 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the definitions of R ¹ , R ² , R ³ and R ⁴ are defined such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol.

其中R¹¹是具有1-约30个碳原子的烷基，且R¹²、R¹³和R¹⁴独立地为具有1-约30个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和或不饱和烷基、芳基和烷基芳基。优选地，R¹¹是乙基，且R¹²、R¹³和R¹⁴独立地为具有约8-约22个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和或不饱和烷基。更优选地，限定R¹¹、R¹²、R¹³和R¹⁴的定义使得该化合物的重均分子量为约800g/mol-约1,200g/mol。Trimethylol ester oils useful in the present invention are compounds of the formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least 800 g/mol:

wherein R ¹¹ is an alkyl group having 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, linear, saturated or unsaturated alkyl groups having 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, Aryl and alkylaryl. Preferably, R ¹¹ is ethyl, and R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the definitions of R ¹¹ , R ¹² , R ¹³ and R ¹⁴ are defined such that the weight average molecular weight of the compound is from about 800 g/mol to about 1,200 g/mol.

Particularly preferred ester oils are pentaerythritol and trimethylol ester oils, more preferably pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, pentaerythritol tetraoleate, trimethylolpropane triisostearate, trimethylolpropane Trioleates and their mixtures. Such compounds are available from Kokyo Alcohol (Tokyo, Japan) under the tradenames KAK P.T.I. and KAK T.T.I., and from Shin-nihon Rika (Tokyo, Japan) under the tradenames PTO and ENUJERUBU TP3SO.

Citrate oils useful herein are compounds of the formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 500 g/mol: wherein R ²¹ is OH or CH ₃ COO, and R ²² , R ²³ and R ²⁴ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl having 1 to about 30 carbon atoms base. Preferably, R ²¹ is OH, and R ²² , R ²³ and R ²⁴ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having from about 8 to about 22 carbon atoms . More preferably, the definitions of R ²¹ , R ²² , R ²³ and R ²⁴ are defined such that the compound has a weight average molecular weight of at least about 800 g/mol. Particularly useful citrate oils include: triisocetyl citrate available from Bernel under the tradename CITMOL 316, triisostearyl citrate available under the tradename PELEMOL TISC from Phoenix, and CITMOL 320 Tris(octyldodecyl) citrate was purchased from Bernel.

其中R⁴¹、R⁴²和R⁴³独立地为具有1-约30个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和或不饱和烷基、芳基和烷基芳基。优选地，R⁴¹、R⁴²和R⁴³独立地为具有8-约22个碳原子的支链、直链、饱和或不饱和烷基、芳基和烷基芳基。更优选地，限定R⁴¹、R⁴²和R⁴³的定义使得该化合物的重均分子量为至少约500g/mol。Glyceride oils useful herein are compounds of the formula having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 400 g/mol:

Wherein R ⁴¹ , R ⁴² and R ⁴³ are independently branched chain, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 1 to about 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, R ⁴¹ , R ⁴² and R ⁴³ are independently branched, straight chain, saturated or unsaturated alkyl, aryl and alkylaryl groups having 8 to about 22 carbon atoms. More preferably, the definitions of R ⁴¹ , R ⁴² and R ⁴³ are defined such that the compound has a weight average molecular weight of at least about 500 g/mol.

Particularly useful glyceride oils include: caprylic/capric triglycerides available under the tradename Miglyol 812 from Degussa-Hüls AG (Frankfurt, Germany), tristearin available from Taiyo Kagaku under the tradename SUN ESPOL G-318 Ester, commercially available under the trade name CITHROL GTO from Croda, Inc. (New Jersey, U.S.A.) Triolein, trade name EFADERMA-F available from Vevy (Genova, Italy), or commercially available under the trade name EFA-GLYCERIDES from Glyceryl trilinoleate from Brooks (South Plainfield, New Jersey, USA).

suitable carrier

In an embodiment of the invention, the hair care composition comprises an ester oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils and mixtures thereof, polypropylene glycol and a suitable carrier. Suitable carriers contain a continuous phase, typically water or oil. The continuous phase is preferably water, but even a water continuous phase may contain oil emulsified or dispersed therein, and vice versa. Other carrier components and/or other additional components may also be added to a suitable carrier. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, and mixtures thereof deposit very well on hair when contained in a suitable vehicle, such as an aqueous vehicle. It is believed that this combination of their bulkiness, branching and high molecular weight features significantly enhances their depositability and effectiveness, even in the absence of a gel matrix. Thus, when a gel base is preferred, these ester oils provide significant, desirable benefits, even in the absence of a gel base.

In another embodiment of the present invention, a hair care composition comprises an ester oil of formula V, polypropylene glycol and a gel base. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that for the ester oils of Formula V, the gel matrix significantly improves depositability and effectiveness.

1. water

The hair care compositions of the present invention generally contain at least about 60%, preferably at least about 70%, more preferably from about 75% to about 95% water. Deionized water is preferably used. Depending on the desired properties of the product, natural waters containing inorganic cations can also be used. The amount and type of suitable carrier can be selected based on compatibility with other ingredients, and other desired characteristics of the product.

Suitable carriers may also include lower alkyl alcohols, polyols, and mixtures thereof. The lower alkyl alcohols useful in the present invention are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. Preferred polyhydric alcohols useful in the present invention include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and propylene glycol.

In a preferred embodiment, a suitable carrier is in the form of a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty alcohol, and water, and is generally characterized by , which has a high viscosity of about 5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps, preferably about 10,000 cps to about 30,000 cps, more preferably about 12,000 cps to about 28,000 cps. If present, the gel base comprises from about 60% to about 99%, preferably from about 70% to about 95%, more preferably from about 80% to about 95%, by weight of the hair care composition.

In highly preferred embodiments, the gel base is preferably a lamellar gel base, such gel bases providing improved deposition, wet hair feel, softness, and other substantial benefits. In the lamellar gel matrix, the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is about 1:1 to about 1:20, preferably about 1:2 to about 1:10, more preferably about 1:3 to 1: 5. Preferred cationic surfactants in lamellar gel matrices generally contain one or two long chain (eg _C12-30 ) alkyl groups and tertiary amine or quaternary ammonium groups. Tertiary amine groups with one or two C _16-22 alkyl chains are preferred.

The presence of a lamellar gel matrix can be detected by assaying the compositions of the present invention using differential scanning calorimetry (hereinafter "DSC"). The profile chart obtained by DSC measurements describes the chemical and physical changes of the scanned sample with enthalpy changes or energy gradients as the sample temperature fluctuates. In this way, the phase behavior of the hair care compositions of the invention and the interactions between the individual components can be understood by means of their DSC profile. DSC measurements of compositions of the invention may be performed by any suitable instrument available. For example, DSC assays may suitably be performed by a Seiko DSC6000 instrument available from Seiko Instruments Inc. In a typical assay method, a sample is prepared by sealing an appropriate amount of the composition into a container for DSC assay and sealing it. Record the weight of the sample. Blank samples, ie unsealed samples, were also prepared in the same container. The sample and the blank sample are placed in the instrument, and run at a heating rate of about 1°C/minute to about 10°C/minute under the measurement conditions of about -50°C to about 130°C. The areas of the identified peaks were calculated and divided by the sample weight to obtain the enthalpy change in mJ/mg.

In preferred layered gel matrices, the DSC profile shows a formation peak of greater than about 3 mJ/mg. Determine peak position by peak apex position. The DSC profile of the preferred layered gel matrix shows a single peak with a peak top temperature of about 55°C to about 75°C, about 6mJ/mg to about 10mJ/mg, and no peak between 40°C and 50°C. Any peak greater than 3mJ/mg. Compositions formed primarily with such gel matrices are believed to exhibit relatively stable phase characteristics between about 40°C and about 55°C. In an even more preferred layered gel matrix, the DSC profile exhibits a single peak at about 8 mJ/mg with a peak top temperature of 69°C, and no peaks greater than 3mJ/mg between 40°C and about 65°C peak.

a. Cationic surfactant

其中至少一个R¹⁰¹、R¹⁰²、R¹⁰³和R¹⁰⁴选自具有8-30个碳原子的脂族基团，或具有最高达约22个碳原子的芳族基团、烷氧基、聚氧亚烷基、烷基酰氨基、羟基烷基、芳基或烷基芳基，剩余R¹⁰¹、R¹⁰²、R¹⁰³和R¹⁰⁴独立地选自具有1-约22个碳原子的脂族基团，或具有最高达约22个碳原子的芳族基团、烷氧基、聚氧亚烷基、烷基酰氨基、羟基烷基、芳基或烷基芳基；且X^-是成盐阴离子，例如选自卤离子(例如氯离子、溴离子)、乙酸根、柠檬酸根、乳酸根、甘醇酸根(glycolate)、磷酸根、硝酸根、磺酸根、硫酸根、烷基硫酸根和烷基磺酸根离子。除了碳原子和氢原子以外，脂族基团还可以含有醚键以及诸如氨基的其它基团。长链脂族基团，例如包含约12个或更多碳原子的脂族基团可以被取代或未取代。R¹⁰¹、R¹⁰²、R¹⁰³和R¹⁰⁴优选独立地选自C₁-约C₂₂烷基。可用于本发明的阳离子表面活性剂的非限制性实例包括CTFA命名如下的物质：quaternium-8、quaternium-14、quaternium-18、quaternium-18甲酯硫酸根、quaternium-24和它们的混合物。The cationic surfactant that can be used in the present invention is the cationic surfactant shown in general formula I:

wherein at least one of R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ is selected from aliphatic groups having 8-30 carbon atoms, or aromatic groups having up to about 22 carbon atoms, alkoxy, polyoxy Alkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl, the remaining R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ are independently selected from aliphatic groups having 1 to about 22 carbon atoms , or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, aryl, or alkylaryl group having up to about 22 carbon atoms; and X ^- is a salt-forming anion , for example selected from halides (e.g. chloride, bromide), acetate, citrate, lactate, glycolate (glycolate), phosphate, nitrate, sulfonate, sulfate, alkylsulfate and alkyl Sulfonate ion. In addition to carbon and hydrogen atoms, aliphatic groups may also contain ether linkages and other groups such as amino groups. Long chain aliphatic groups, eg, containing about 12 or more carbon atoms, can be substituted or unsubstituted. R ¹⁰¹ , R ¹⁰² , R ¹⁰³ and R ¹⁰⁴ are preferably independently selected from C ₁ -about C ₂₂ alkyl groups. Non-limiting examples of cationic surfactants that can be used in the present invention include the following CTFA designations: quaternium-8, quaternium-14, quaternium-18, quaternium-18 methyl sulfate, quaternium-24, and mixtures thereof.

Among the cationic surfactants of the general formula (I), preference is given to surfactants which contain at least one alkyl group having at least 16 carbon atoms in the molecule. Non-limiting examples of such preferred cationic surfactants include: behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is available, for example, under the tradename INCROQUATTM MC-80 from Croda and ECONOL TM22 from Sanyo Kasei (Osaka, Japan ); cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, which is commercially available from Nikko Chemicals (Tokyo, Japan), for example, under the tradename CA-2350, hydrogenated tallowalkyltrimethylammonium chloride, dialkyl (14-18) Dimethylammonium Chloride, Ditallowyldimethylammonium Chloride, Dihydrogenated Tallowyldimethylammonium Chloride, Distearyldimethylammonium Chloride, Dicetyldimethylammonium Chloride Ammonium Chloride, Bis(behenyl/eicosyl)dimethylammonium chloride, Bis(behenyl)dimethylammonium chloride, Stearyldimethylbenzylammonium chloride , Stearyl Propylene Glycol Phosphate Dimethyl Ammonium Chloride, Stearoylamidopropyl Dimethyl Benzyl Ammonium Chloride, Stearoylamidopropyl Dimethyl (Myristyl Acetate) Chloride ammonium, and N-(stearylcholecarbamoylmethyl)pyridinium chloride.

其中n¹为8-约28，m¹+m²为约2-约40，Z¹是短链烷基，优选C₁-C₃烷基，更优选甲基，或(CH₂CH₂O)_m3H，其中m¹+m²+m³最高达60，且X^-是如上所定义的成盐阴离子；其中n²是1-5，一个或多个R¹⁰⁵、R¹⁰⁶和R¹⁰⁷独立地为C₁-C₃₀烷基，余下的所述基团为CH₂CH₂OH，R¹⁰⁸、R¹⁰⁹和R¹¹⁰中的一个或两个独立地为C₁-C₃₀烷基，余下的所述基团为CH₂CH₂OH，且X^-是如上所定义的成盐阴离子；其中，下述定义对于式(IV)和(V)是独立的，Z²为烷基，优选C₁-C₃烷基，更优选甲基，且Z³是短链羟基烷基，优选羟基甲基或羟基乙基，n³和n⁴独立地为2-4的整数、并包括2和4，优选为2-3的整数、并包括2和3，更优选为2，R¹¹¹和R¹¹²独立地为取代或未取代的烃基、C₁₂-C₂₀烷基或链烯基，且X^-为如上所定义的成盐阴离子；其中R¹¹³为烃基，优选为C₁-C₃烷基，更优选为甲基，Z⁴和Z⁵独立地为短链烃基，优选为C₂-C₄烷基或链烯基，更优选为乙基，m⁴为2-约40，优选为约7-约30，且X^-为如上所定义的成盐阴离子；

其中R¹¹⁴和R¹¹⁵独立地为C₁-C₃烷基，优选为甲基，Z⁶是C₁₂-C₂₂烃基、烷基羧基或烷基酰氨基，且A是蛋白，优选为胶原、角蛋白、乳蛋白、蚕丝蛋白、大豆蛋白、小麦蛋白、或它们的水解形式，且X-为如上所定义的成盐阴离子；其中n⁵为2或3，R¹¹⁶和R¹¹⁷独立地为C₁-C₃烃基，优选为甲基，且X^-为如上所定义的成盐阴离子。可用于本发明的亲水取代的阳离子表面活性剂的非限制性实例包括具有下述CTFA名称的物质：quaternium-16、quaternium-26、quaternium-27、quaternium-30、quaternium-33、quaternium-43、quaternium-52、quaternium-53、quaternium-56、quaternium-60、quaternium-61、quaternium-62、quaternium-70、quaternium-71、quaternium-72、quaternium-75、quaternium-76水解的胶原、quaternium-77、quaternium-78、quaternium-79水解的胶原、quaternium-79水解的角蛋白、quaternium-79水解的乳蛋白、quaternium-79水解的蚕丝蛋白、quaternium-79水解的大豆蛋白和quaternium-79水解的小麦蛋白、quaternium-80、quaternium-81、quaternium-82、quaternium-83、quaternium-84和它们的混合物。Also preferred cationic surfactants are hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants in which at least one substituent contains one or more aromatic, ether, ester, Amino or amino moieties, wherein at least one R ¹⁰¹ -R ¹⁰⁴ radical contains one or more hydrophilic moieties selected from the group consisting of alkoxy (preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkoxy), polyoxyalkylene ( Preferred are C ₁ -C ₃ polyoxyalkylene), alkylamido, hydroxyalkyl, alkyl ester and combinations thereof. Preferably, the hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants contain from 2 to about 10 of the aforementioned nonionic hydrophilic moieties. Preferred hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactants include cationic surfactants shown in the following formulas (II)-(VIII):

wherein n ¹ is 8 to about 28, m ¹ + m ² is about 2 to about 40, Z ¹ is a short chain alkyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, more preferably methyl, or (CH ₂ CH ₂ O ) _m H, wherein m ¹ +m ² +m ³ up to 60, and X ^- is a salt-forming anion as defined above; wherein n ² is 1-5, one or more of R ¹⁰⁵ , R ¹⁰⁶ and R ¹⁰⁷ are independently C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, and the remaining groups are CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, R ¹⁰⁸ , R ¹⁰⁹ and One or two of R ¹¹⁰ are independently C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, the remaining said groups are CH ₂ CH ₂ OH, and X ^- is a salt-forming anion as defined above; Wherein, the following definitions are independent for formulas (IV) and (V), Z ² is alkyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, more preferably methyl, and Z ³ is short-chain hydroxyalkyl, preferably hydroxy Methyl or hydroxyethyl, n ³ and n ⁴ are independently an integer of 2-4 and include 2 and 4, preferably an integer of 2-3 and include 2 and 3, more preferably 2, R ¹¹¹ and R ¹¹² is independently substituted or unsubstituted hydrocarbyl, C ₁₂ -C ₂₀ alkyl or alkenyl, and X ^- is a salt-forming anion as defined above; Wherein R ¹¹³ is a hydrocarbon group, preferably a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl group, Z ⁴ and Z ⁵ are independently short-chain hydrocarbon groups, preferably a C ₂ -C ₄ alkyl or alkenyl group, more preferably is ethyl, m ⁴ is 2-about 40, preferably about 7-about 30, and X ^- is a salt-forming anion as defined above;

wherein R ¹¹⁴ and R ¹¹⁵ are independently C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, preferably methyl, Z ⁶ is C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon, alkyl carboxyl or alkylamido, and A is protein, preferably collagen, Keratin, milk protein, silk protein, soybean protein, wheat protein, or their hydrolyzed forms, and X- is a salt-forming anion as defined above; wherein n ⁵ is 2 or 3, R ¹¹⁶ and R ¹¹⁷ are independently a C ₁ -C ₃ hydrocarbon group, preferably a methyl group, and X ^- is a salt-forming anion as defined above. Non-limiting examples of hydrophilically substituted cationic surfactants useful in the present invention include materials having the following CTFA designations: quaternium-16, quaternium-26, quaternium-27, quaternium-30, quaternium-33, quaternium-43 , quaternium-52, quaternium-53, quaternium-56, quaternium-60, quaternium-61, quaternium-62, quaternium-70, quaternium-71, quaternium-72, quaternium-75, quaternium-76 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium- 77, quaternium-78, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed collagen, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed keratin, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed milk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed silk protein, quaternium-79 hydrolyzed soybean protein, and quaternium-79 hydrolyzed Wheat protein, quaternium-80, quaternium-81, quaternium-82, quaternium-83, quaternium-84 and mixtures thereof.

Highly preferred hydrophilic substituted cationic surfactants include dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylmonomethylammonium salts, dialkylamidoethyldimethylammonium salts, dialkylamidoethylhydroxyethylmonomethylammonium salts, Methylammonium salts, dialkanoylethyldimethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof; for example, commercially available surfactants under the tradenames: VARISOFT 110, VARISOFT 222, VARIQUAT from Witco Chemicals (Greenwich, Connecticut, USA) K1215 and VARIQUAT 638; MACKPRO KLP, MACKPRO WLW, MACKPRO MLP, MACKPRO NSP, MACKPRO NLW, MACKPRO WWP, MACKPRO NLP, MACKPRO SLP from McIntyre; ETHOQUAD 18/25, ETHOQUAD O/12PG, ETHOQUAD C/ from Akzo 25. ETHOQUAD S/25 and ETHODUOQUAD; DEHYQUAT SP available from Henkel (Germany); and ATLAS G265 available from ICI Americas (Wilmington, Delaware, USA).

Salts of primary, secondary and tertiary fatty amines are also suitable cationic surfactants. The alkyl groups of such amines preferably have about 12-22 carbon atoms and may be substituted or unsubstituted. Particularly useful are amido-substituted tertiary fatty amines. Such amines useful in the present invention include stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl diethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, Palmitoylamine, Palmitoamidopropyl Dimethylamine, Palmitoamidopropyl Diethylamine, Palmitoamidoethyl Diethylamine, Palmitoamidoethyl Dimethylamine, Behenamidopropyl Behenyl dimethylamine, behenyl amidopropyl diethylamine, behenyl amidoethyl diethylamine, behenyl amidoethyl dimethylamine, eicosanamido Propyldimethylamine, eicosanoamidopropyldiethylamine, eicosanoamidoethyldiethylamine, eicosanoamidoethyldimethylamine, diethylaminoethylhard Fatty amide. Also suitable are dimethylstearylamine, dimethylsoyamine, soyamine, tetradecylamine, tridecylamine, ethylstearylamine, N-tallow propylenediamine, ethoxy alkylated (with 5 moles of ethylene oxide) stearylamine, dihydroxyethylstearylamine, and eicosylbehenylamine. These amines are often used in combination with acids to provide cationic species. Preferred acids that can be used include L-glutamic acid, lactic acid, hydrochloric acid, malic acid, succinic acid, acetic acid, fumaric acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, L-glutamic acid hydrochloride and mixtures thereof; more preferably L-glutamic acid Glutamic Acid, Lactic Acid, Citric Acid. Cationic amine surfactants useful herein include those disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,275,055, Nachtigal et al., issued June 23, 1981.

The molar ratio of protonatable amine to acid H ⁺ is preferably from about 1:0.3 to 1:1.2, more preferably from 1:0.5 to about 1:1.1.

b. Solid fatty compounds

The solid fatty compound useful in the present invention has a melting point of 25°C or higher and is selected from fatty alcohols, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. Those skilled in the art can understand that the compounds disclosed in this section of the specification can belong to more than one category in some cases, for example, certain fatty alcohol derivatives can also be classified as fatty acid derivatives. However, a given class is not intended to limit that particular compound, but rather for ease of classification and nomenclature. Furthermore, those skilled in the art will appreciate that some compounds with certain desired carbon atoms may have melting points below 25°C, depending on the number and location of double bonds, and the length and location of branches. Such low melting point compounds are not included in this section. Non-limiting examples of high melting point compounds can be found in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.

Solid fatty compounds are present in the compositions of the present invention at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20% by weight, preferably from about 1% to about 15% by weight, preferably from about 2% to about 10% by weight.

The fatty alcohols useful herein are those having from about 14 to about 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty alcohols are saturated and may be straight or branched chain alcohols. Non-limiting examples of fatty alcohols include cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Fatty acids useful in the present invention are fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are saturated and can be straight chain or branched chain acids. Also included are dibasic acids, tribasic acids, and other polybasic acids that meet the requirements of the present invention. The present invention also includes salts of these fatty acids. Non-limiting examples of fatty acids include lauric acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, sebacic acid, and mixtures thereof.

Solid fatty compounds of high purity single compound are preferred. A single compound of pure fatty alcohols selected from pure cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol is highly preferred. "Pure" herein means that the compound is at least about 90% pure, preferably at least about 95% pure. These single compounds of high purity provide good rinse-off properties from the hair when the consumer washes off the compositions of the present invention.

Commercially available solid fatty compounds that can be used in the present invention include: cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and NAA series available from Shin-nihon Rika (Osaka, Japan) under the trade name KONOL series and NOF (Tokyo, Japan) under the trade name NAA series. Docosanol; pure docosanol available from Wako Chemical (Osaka, Japan) under the trade name 1-DOCOSANOL, commercially available from Akzo (Chicago, Illinois, USA) under the trade name NEO-FAT, commercially available under the trade name HYSTRENE Various fatty acids were purchased from Witco Corp. (Dublin, Ohio, USA) and Vevy (Genova, Italy) under the tradename DERMA.

While polyhydric fatty alcohols can form gel matrices, monohydric fatty alcohols are preferred. When forming the gel matrix, the cationic surfactant and/or the solid fatty compound may first be mixed with, suspended and/or dissolved in water.

2. Oil

In addition to the ester oils described above, oils having a melting point below about 25°C may also be used in the present invention. These oils can provide conditioning benefits such as softness and elasticity to the hair. Non-limiting examples of oils useful in the present invention can be found in the International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Fifth Edition, 1993, and the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Handbook, Second Edition, 1992.

In preferred embodiments comprising alkyl alkoxylates (described below), oil is also present. It has now been found that, when present, these alkyl alkoxylates can undesirably migrate into the aqueous phase, create stability problems, and/or have insufficient deposition efficiency when contained in an aqueous carrier. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that these stability problems are due to differences in solubility between typical manufacturing and typical storage temperatures, chemical degradation of oil-miscible solvents, and the like. In certain instances, it is believed that a phase change in-and-of-itself can affect stability and/or deposition efficiency. For example, the alkoxylates described herein may be more water soluble at lower temperatures (eg, storage temperatures) than at higher temperatures (eg, manufacturing temperatures). If such an alkyl alkoxylate passes from the oil phase to the water phase, its deposition efficiency onto the hair can be significantly reduced. In this case, even if it is not degraded or chemically altered, the alkyl alkoxylate may not be effectively deposited on the hair because it is very easily removed during use. Such low deposition efficiencies are undesirable.

Thus, it has now been found that the stability and deposition of certain alkyl alkoxylates can decrease as they migrate from one phase to another over time (eg, during storage, transport, etc.). Such phase transfer can therefore lead to a significant decrease in the overall properties of the composition. Therefore, there is a need to minimize such unwanted phase transitions. Thus in a preferred embodiment, a suitable carrier comprises an oil having an HLB value of from about 0 to about 3, preferably from about 0 to about 2, more preferably from about 0 to about 1. Without wishing to be bound by theory, it is believed that such oils tend to have an affinity for the hair and thus tend to deposit on the hair. As noted above, the preferred alkyl alkoxylates are miscible in oil. Therefore, when mixed with the alkyl alkoxylate prior to adding it to a suitable carrier, the oil may entrap the alkyl alkoxylate therein. Furthermore, the low HLB values of these oils provide a highly hydrophobic environment which reduces the likelihood of phase transition of the alkyl alkoxylate during storage. This in turn increases the stability of the alkylalkoxylates during storage and prevents them from being easily washed off, eg during shampooing. Accordingly, such oils are especially preferred in rinse-off hair conditioning compositions or shampoo compositions. In addition to trapping the alkyl alkoxylate therein, such oils also act as a vehicle for further enhancing the actual deposition itself. Furthermore, such oils themselves may provide desirable benefits such as improved combability, dry hair feel, shine, softness, smoothness and/or slick feel.

Oils useful in the present invention are generally liquid at room temperature and thus have a melting point below about 25°C. Preferred examples of oils useful in the present invention include liquid fatty alcohols and their derivatives, fatty acids and their derivatives, hydrocarbons, Silicone compounds and mixtures thereof. More preferable examples of oils usable in the present invention include fatty acid esters, liquid fatty alcohols, hydrocarbons and mixtures thereof having the above HLB values. Even more preferred examples of oils that can be used in the present invention include liquid fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof, having the above HLB values.

Unless otherwise specified, oils comprise from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 5%, by weight of the hair care compositions.

a. Liquid fatty alcohols and fatty acids

Liquid fatty alcohols useful in the present invention include liquid fatty alcohols having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These liquid fatty alcohols may be straight chain or branched chain alcohols and may be saturated or unsaturated alcohols, preferably unsaturated alcohols. Solid fatty compounds are those fatty alcohols which, when in their substantially pure form, are solid at 25°C and liquid fatty alcohols are those fatty alcohols which are liquid at 25°C. Non-limiting examples of these compounds include oleyl alcohol, palmitoleyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol, and mixtures thereof. Although polyhydric fatty alcohols are useful in the present invention, monohydric fatty alcohols are preferred.

Fatty acids useful in the present invention include fatty acids having from about 10 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 16 to about 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids can be straight chain or branched chain acids and can be saturated or unsaturated. Suitable fatty acids include, for example, oleic acid, linoleic acid, isostearic acid, linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, ethyl linolenic acid, arachidonic acid and ricinoleic acid.

Fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives as defined herein include, for example, fatty acid esters, alkoxylated fatty alcohols, alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, alkoxylated alkyl ethers of fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. Non-limiting examples of fatty acid derivatives and fatty alcohol derivatives include, for example, methyl linoleate, ethyl linoleate, isopropyl linoleate, isodecyl oleate, isopropyl oleate, ethyl oleate , Octyldodecyl Oleate, Oleyl Oleate, Decyl Oleate, Butyl Oleate, Methyl Oleate, Octyldodecyl Stearate, Octyldodecyl Isostearate Esters, Octyldodecyl Isononanoate, Octyl Isononanoate, Octyl Nonanoate, Hexyl Isostearate, Isopropyl Isostearate, Isodecyl Isononanoate, Isopropyl Isostearate , ethyl isostearate, methyl isostearate and oleth-2.

Commercially available liquid fatty alcohols and derivatives thereof that can be used in the present invention include: oleyl alcohol available from Shin-nihon Rika under the trade name UNJECOL90BHR, various liquid esters available from Scher under the trade name SCHERCEMOL series, and oleyl alcohol available from Kokyu Alcohol Hexyl isostearate with the trade name HIS and isopropyl isostearate with the trade name ZPIS.

b. Hydrocarbons

Hydrocarbons useful in the present invention include linear, cyclic, and branched chain hydrocarbons, which may be saturated or unsaturated, so long as their melting point does not exceed about 25°C. These hydrocarbons have from about 12 to about 40 carbon atoms, preferably from about 12 to about 30 carbon atoms, more preferably from about 12 to about 22 carbon atoms. Also included are polymeric hydrocarbons of alkenyl monomers, such as polymers of _C2-6 alkenyl monomers. These polymers may be linear or branched polymers. Linear polymers are generally shorter in chain length, with a total number of carbon atoms as described above. Branched polymers can have substantially higher chain lengths. The number average molecular weight of such materials can vary within wide ranges, but is generally up to about 500 g/mol, preferably from about 200 g/mol to about 400 g/mol, more preferably from about 300 g/mol to about 350 g/mol. Also useful in the present invention are various grades of mineral oils. Mineral oil is a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum. Specific examples of suitable hydrocarbons include paraffin oil, mineral oil, dodecane, isododecane, hexadecane, isohexadecane, eicosene, isoeicosene, tridecane, tetradecane alkanes, polybutenes, polyisobutenes and mixtures thereof. Preferred for use in the present invention are hydrocarbons selected from the group consisting of mineral oils, polyalphaolefin oils such as isododecane, isohexadecane, polybutene, polyisobutene and mixtures thereof.

The polyalphaolefin oils useful in the present invention are those polyalphaolefin oils derived from 1-olefin monomers having from about 6 to about 16 carbon atoms, preferably from about 6 to about 12 carbon atoms. Non-limiting examples of 1-olefin monomers that can be used to prepare polyalphaolefin oils include 1-hexene, 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1 - Hexadecene, branched isomers such as 4-methyl-1-pentene and mixtures thereof. Preferred 1-olefin monomers useful in the preparation of polyalphaolefin oils are 1-octene, 1-decene, 1-dodecene, 1-tetradecene, 1-hexadecene and mixtures thereof . Polyalphaolefin oils useful in the present invention also have a viscosity of from about 1 to about 35,000 cps, a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol, and a polydispersity of no more than about 3.

Polyalphaolefin oils having a weight average molecular weight of at least about 800 g/mol can be used herein to provide a longer lasting moist feel to the hair. However, polyalphaolefin oils having a weight average molecular weight of less than about 800 g/mol may also be used in the present invention to provide a smooth, shiny, clean feel to the hair. Polyalphaolefin oils particularly useful in the present invention include polydecenes available from Mobil Chemical Co under the trade name PURESYN 6 and having a weight average molecular weight of about 500 g/mol and under the trade name PURESYN 100 and having a weight average molecular weight in excess of 3000 g/mol. .

Commercially available hydrocarbons useful in the present invention include isododecane, isohexadecane, and isoeicosene available from Presperse (South Plainfield New Jersey, USA) under the trade names PERMETHYL 99A, PERMETHYL 101A, and PERMETHYL 1082; Copolymer of isobutene and n-butene under the trade name INDOPOL H-100 available from Amoco Chemicals (Chicago Illinois, USA), mineral oil available from Witco Chemicals under the trade name BENOL, commercially available under the trade name ISOPAR from Exxon Chemical Co. (Houston Texas, USA) ), and polydecene commercially available from Mobil Chemical Co. under the tradename PURESYN 6.

Suitable carriers may also comprise solutions of lower alkyl alcohols and polyols. The lower alkyl alcohols useful in the present invention are monohydric alcohols having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably ethanol and isopropanol. Preferred polyhydric alcohols useful in the present invention include propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and propylene glycol.

Alkyl alkoxylates

Alkyl alkoxylates are preferably included in the hair care compositions of the present invention. Alkyl alkoxylates suitable for use herein can provide, for example, softening, conditioning, reduction in total hair volume, reduction in flyaway hair volume, reduction in bulk hair volume, and/or other benefits. Alkyl alkoxylates suitable for use in the present invention have the formula:

R ³ -O-(R ² -O) _n H wherein each R ² is independently a C ₂ -C ₄ alkyl group, each R ² is preferably independently selected from a saturated C ₂ H ₄ group and a saturated C ₃ H ₆ groups, each R ² is more preferably independently selected from linear saturated C ₂ H ₄ groups and linear saturated C ₃ H ₆ groups; wherein R ³ has about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, preferably An alkyl group of about 6 to about 22 carbon atoms, more preferably about 8 to about 18 carbon atoms; ^R can be branched or linear, saturated or unsaturated, but is preferably linear or saturated or has about 1 double bonded unsaturated group;

n is a value from about 1 to about 10, preferably from about 2 to about 8, more preferably from about 3 to about 6;

The weight average molecular weight of the alkyl alkoxylate is preferably less than about 500 g/mol, more preferably from about 100 to about 500 g/mol, even more preferably from about 200 to about 500 g/mol; and the alkyl alkoxylate preferably has an HLB value of From about 5 to about 12, more preferably from about 6 to about 11, even more preferably from about 6 to about 10.

As can be seen from the HLB value, the alkyl alkoxylate is miscible with both oil and water. In addition, the alkyl alkoxylate typically has a melting point below about 30°C, preferably below about 25°C, even more preferably below about 20°C, and a cloud point (1% solution) below about 50°C, preferably Below about 40°C, even more preferably below about 35°C.

Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the alkyl alkoxylates suitable for use herein provide the bulk hair volume reduction benefit through the following mechanism: These hydrophobic alkyl chains attach to the hair fiber (even under rinse conditions), while The hydrophilic alkoxylate groups attract water molecules and bring them to the hair fiber. This in turn moisturizes the hair fiber and helps keep it supple, supple and manageable. This in turn allows the hair fibers to maintain an aligned morphology (relative to other hair fibers) and to recover easily from the deformed state. This further increases the possibility of keeping the hair fibers parallel and/or hanging. This significantly reduces the space between each hair fiber, thereby reducing bulk hair volume.

Without being bound by theory, it is also believed that the alkyl alkoxylates can substantially reduce flyaway hair volume. By wetting the hair fiber, the alkyl alkoxylates also reduce the static charge and curl of the hair fiber. This in turn reduces electrostatic repulsion as well as the spaces between hair fibers, resulting in a reduction in flyaway volume.

Alkyl ethoxylates are especially preferred alkyl alkoxylates useful herein from the standpoint of cost, availability, and performance, and include, for example, those with the following CTFA designations: oleth-5, oleth -3, steareth-5, steareth-4, ceteareth-5, ceteareth-4 and ceteareth-3, and C _9-11 EO5 mixture, C _9-11 EO2.5 mixture, C _12-13 EO3 mixture, C _{11- 13} EO5 mixtures and mixtures thereof. These alkyl ethoxylates are commercially available from, for example, Croda, Inc. of Parsippany, New Jersey, USA; Shell Chemical of USA; BASF AG of Germany; Mitsubishi Chemical of Tokyo, Japan; and Nikko Chemical of Tokyo, Japan. Such alkyl ethoxylates are especially preferred for use in rinse-off hair conditioning compositions.

Alkyl alkoxylates, if present, are present in the hair care composition at a level of from about 0.1% to about 20%, preferably from about 0.2% to about 15%, more preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the hair care composition. %weight. If the hair care composition is a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, the alkyl alkoxylate is preferably present in an amount of at least about 1%, more preferably from about 2% to about 20%, or even More preferably from about 3% to about 10% by weight.

If the hair care composition is used as a rinse-off hair conditioning composition, it is highly preferred that the alkyl alkoxylate has a cloud point of less than about 40°C. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that this significantly improves the deposition efficiency of the alkyl alkoxylate on the hair.

other additional components

Some other additional components are preferred in the present invention. These components include compounds which when used provide, for example, additional hair care and/or hair conditioning benefits. Preferred other additional ingredients include silicone compounds, hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers, cationic conditioning compounds, antimicrobial agents, herbal extracts, and mixtures thereof. Unless otherwise indicated, these other additional ingredients will generally be used at levels of from about 0.001% to about 10.0%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 5.0%, respectively, by weight of the hair care compositions.

1. Polysiloxane compound

The hair care compositions of the present invention preferably contain silicone compounds. Silicone compounds useful herein include volatile soluble or insoluble, or nonvolatile soluble or insoluble silicone conditioning agents. Soluble means that the silicone compound is miscible with the carrier of the composition to form part of the same phase. Insoluble means that the polysiloxane forms a separate, discontinuous phase from the carrier, for example in the form of an emulsion or suspension of polysiloxane droplets. The polysiloxane compounds of the present invention may be prepared by any suitable method known in the art, including emulsion polymerization. The silicone compound may be incorporated into the compositions of the present invention in the form of an emulsion, with or without the aid of anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, cationic surfactants and their Mixtures of surfactants are formed by mechanical mixing, or by emulsion polymerization at the synthesis stage.

The silicone compounds useful in the present invention preferably have a viscosity at 25°C of from about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 centistokes, preferably from about 10,000 to about 1,800,000, even more preferably from about 100,000 to about 1,500,000. The viscosity can be measured using a glass capillary viscometer according to the method set forth in Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, July 20, 1970. High molecular weight polysiloxane compounds can be prepared by emulsion polymerization. Suitable silicone fluids include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, polyethersiloxane copolymers, and mixtures thereof. Other nonvolatile silicones having hair conditioning properties can also be used.

The silicone compound is preferably present in the compositions of the present invention at a level of from about 0.01% to about 20%, more preferably from about 0.05% to about 10%, by weight.

其中R¹²³是烷基或芳基，且x是约7-约8,000的整数。Z⁸代表封闭聚硅氧烷链末端的基团。在硅氧烷链上取代的烷基或芳基(R¹²³)或在硅氧烷链端部上取代的烷基或芳基Z⁸可具有任何结构，只要所得聚硅氧烷在室温保持流体，是可分散的，当施用在头发上时没有刺激性、毒性或其它有害作用，与组合物的其它组分相容，在正常使用和贮存条件下是化学稳定的，并且能沉积在头发上并调理头发即可。合适的Z⁸基团包括羟基、甲基、甲氧基、乙氧基、丙氧基和芳氧基。在硅原子上的两个R¹²³基团可代表相同或不同基团。优选地，这两个R¹²³基团代表相同基团。合适的R¹²³基团包括甲基、乙基、丙基、苯基、甲基苯基和苯基甲基。优选的聚硅氧烷化合物是聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚二乙基硅氧烷和聚甲基苯基硅氧烷。还称为二甲硅油(dimethicone)的聚二甲基硅氧烷是尤其优选的。可使用的聚烷基硅氧烷包括例如聚二甲基硅氧烷。这些聚硅氧烷化合物可以例如以其Viscasil^和SF 96系列购自General Electric Company，和以其Dow Corning 200系列购自Dow Corning。Polysiloxane compounds in the present invention also include polyalkyl or polyaryl polysiloxanes with the following structure (I):

wherein R ¹²³ is alkyl or aryl, and x is an integer from about 7 to about 8,000. Z ⁸ represents a group blocking the end of the polysiloxane chain. The alkyl or aryl group (R ¹²³ ) substituted on the siloxane chain or the alkyl or aryl group Z ⁸ substituted on the end of the siloxane chain can have any structure as long as the resulting polysiloxane remains fluid at room temperature , is dispersible, has no irritating, toxic or other deleterious effect when applied to the hair, is compatible with the other components of the composition, is chemically stable under normal conditions of use and storage, and deposits on the hair And condition your hair. Suitable ^Z groups include hydroxy, methyl, methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy and aryloxy. The two R ¹²³ groups on the silicon atom may represent the same or different groups. Preferably, the two R ¹²³ groups represent the same group. Suitable ^R123 groups include methyl, ethyl, propyl, phenyl, methylphenyl and phenylmethyl. Preferred silicone compounds are polydimethylsiloxane, polydiethylsiloxane and polymethylphenylsiloxane. Polydimethylsiloxane, also known as dimethicone, is especially preferred. Polyalkylsiloxanes that may be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These silicone compounds are available, for example, from the General Electric Company in their Viscasil ^(R) and SF 96 series, and from Dow Corning in their Dow Corning 200 series.

Polyalkylaryl siloxane fluids may also be used and include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from the General Electric Company as SF 1075 Methylphenyl Fluid, or from Dow Corning as 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid.

Especially preferred are highly arylated polysiloxane compounds, for example highly phenylated polyethylsiloxanes having a refractive index of 1.46 or higher, especially about 1.52 or higher, for enhancing the shine properties of the hair . When these high-refractive-index silicone compounds are used, they should be mixed with spreading agents such as surfactants or silicone resins as described below in order to lower the surface tension of the substance and improve its film-forming ability.

Polysiloxane compounds that may be used include, for example, polypropylene oxide-modified polydimethylsiloxane, although ethylene oxide or a mixture of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide may also be used. The ethylene oxide and propylene oxide levels should be low enough not to affect the dispersibility of the polysiloxane. These substances are also known as dimethicone copolyols.

Other polysiloxane compounds include amino-substituted materials. Suitable alkylamino substituted polysiloxane compounds include those represented by the following structure (II): wherein R ¹²⁴ is H, CH ₃ or OH, p ¹ , p ² , q ¹ and q ² are integers depending on the molecular weight, and the weight average molecular weight is about 5,000-10,000. This polymer is also known as "amodimethicone".

Suitable amino-substituted polysiloxane fluids include those represented by the following formula (III): (R ¹²⁵ ) _a G _3-a -Si-(OSiG ₂ ) _p3 -(OSiG _b (R ¹²⁵ ) _2-b ) _p4 -O-SiG _3-a (R ¹²⁵ ) _a (III), wherein G is selected from hydrogen, phenyl, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, preferably methyl; a means 0 or 1-3 and is preferably 0; b refers to 0 or 1, and is preferably 1; the sum of p ³ +p ⁴ is a value of 0-2000, preferably 50-150, and p ³ refers to 0-1,999, preferably 49- The value of 149, p ⁴ refers to the value of 1-2000, preferably 1-10; R ¹²⁵ is a monovalent group shown in the formula C _q3 H _2q3 L, wherein q ³ is an integer of 2-8, and L is selected from the following Said groups:

-N(R ¹²⁶ )CH ₂ -CH ₂ -N(R ¹²⁶ ) ₂

-N(R ¹²⁶ ) ₂

-N(R ¹²⁶ ) ₃ X'

-N(R ¹²⁶ )CH ₂ -CH ₂ -NR ¹²⁶ H ₂ X' wherein R ¹²⁶ is selected from hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, saturated hydrocarbon groups, preferably alkyl groups having 1-20 carbon atoms, and X' means halide ion.

A particularly preferred amino-substituted polysiloxane of formula (III) is the polymer known as "trimethylsilylamodimethicone", wherein R ¹²⁴ is CH ₃ .

其中R¹²⁸是指具有1-18个碳原子的单价烃基，优选烷基或链烯基例如甲基；R¹²⁹是指烃基，优选C₁-C₁₈亚烷基或C₁-C₁₈，更优选C₁-C₈亚烷基氧基；Q^-是卤离子，优选氯离子；p⁵是指2-20、优选2-8的平均统计值；p⁶是指20-200、优选20-50的平均统计值。优选的这类聚合物以商品名“UCAR SILICONEALE 56”购自Union Carbide。Other amino-substituted polysiloxanes useful in the present invention include cationic amino-substituted polysiloxanes represented by the following formula (V):

Wherein R ¹²⁸ refers to a monovalent hydrocarbon group with 1-18 carbon atoms, preferably an alkyl or alkenyl such as methyl; R ¹²⁹ refers to a hydrocarbon group, preferably a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene or C ₁ -C ₁₈ , more Preferably C ₁ -C ₈ alkyleneoxy; Q ^- is a halide ion, preferably a chloride ion; p ⁵ means the average statistical value of 2-20, preferably 2-8; p ⁶ means 20-200, preferably 20- Average stats of 50. A preferred polymer of this type is available from Union Carbide under the trade designation "UCAR SILICONEALE 56".

References disclosing suitable non-volatile dispersed silicone compounds include U.S. Patent 2,826,551 to Geen; U.S. Patent 3,964,500 to Drakoff, published June 22, 1976; Pader's, published December 21, 1982; U.S. Patent 4,364,837; and Woolston's British Patent 849,433. "Silicon Compounds", published by Petrarch Systems, Inc., 1984, provides an extensive, but not exclusive, list of suitable polysiloxane compounds.

Another non-volatile dispersed silicone that is especially suitable is silicone gum. The term "silicone gum" refers to a polyorganosiloxane having a viscosity at 25°C of greater than or equal to 1,000,000 centistokes. It should be recognized that the silicone gums described herein may also have some overlap with the silicone compounds disclosed above. This overlap is not a limitation to any of these substances. Silicone gums are described by Petrarch and others, including U.S. Patent 4,152,416 to Spitzer et al., published May 1, 1979, and Noll, Walter, Chemistry and Technology of Silicones, New York: Academic Press 1968. General Electric Silicone Rubber Product Data Sheets SE 30, SE 33, SE 54 and SE 76 also describe silicone gums. "Silicone gums" generally have a weight average molecular weight in excess of about 200,000, usually from about 200,000 to about 1,000,000. Specific examples include polydimethylsiloxane, poly(dimethylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) copolymer, poly(dimethylsiloxane diphenylsiloxane methylvinylsiloxane) alkane) copolymers and their mixtures.

It is also possible to use silicone resins which are highly crosslinked silicone systems. The crosslinking is introduced by incorporation of trifunctional and tetrafunctional silanes together with monofunctional or difunctional silanes or both during the production of the polysiloxane resin. As is well known in the art, the degree of crosslinking required to produce a silicone resin will vary depending on the particular siloxane units incorporated into the silicone resin. In general, polysiloxane materials having sufficient levels of trifunctional and tetrafunctional siloxane monomer units, and therefore crosslinking, such that they form hard or strong films when dry, can Considered a polysiloxane resin. The ratio of oxygen atoms to silicon atoms in a particular polysiloxane material is an indicator of the level of crosslinking. Silicone materials having an oxygen atom to silicon atom ratio of at least about 1.1 are typically the silicone resins described herein. Silanes that can be used to prepare polysiloxane resins include monomethyl-, dimethyl-, trimethyl-, monophenyl-, diphenyl-, methylphenyl-, monovinyl-, and methylvinyl methyl substituted silanes, and tetrachlorosilanes, of which methyl substituted silanes are the most commonly used. Preferred resins are available from General Electric as GE SS4230 and SS4267. Commercially available silicone resins are generally supplied in dissolved form in low viscosity volatile or nonvolatile silicone fluids. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the silicone resins useful in the present invention should be provided in such dissolved form and incorporated into the compositions of the present invention. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that the silicone resins enhance the deposition of other silicone compounds on the hair and enhance the shine of hair having high refractive index volume.

Other silicone resins that may be used are silicone resin powders such as the material with the CTFA designation polymethylsilsequoxane available from Toshiba Silicones as Tospearl ^™ .

Methods for preparing these polysiloxane compounds can be found in Encyclopedia of Polymer Science and Engineering, Volume 15, Second Edition, pp. 204-308, John Wiley & Sons, Inc., 1989.

Silicone materials and silicone resins are particularly conveniently denoted according to an abbreviated nomenclature system known to those skilled in the art as the "MDTQ" nomenclature. Under this nomenclature, polysiloxanes are described in terms of the presence of the various siloxane monomer units that make up the polysiloxane. Briefly, the symbol M refers to the monofunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₃ SiO _0.5 ; D refers to the difunctional unit (CH ₃ ) ₂ SiO; T refers to the trifunctional unit (CH ₃ ) SiO _1.5 ; and Q refers to the tetrafunctional unit. Functional unit SiO ₂ . Those unit symbols such as M', D', T' and Q' appended with "prime" refer to substituents other than methyl and must be specifically defined at each occurrence. Typical alternative substituents include groups such as vinyl, phenyl, amino, hydroxy, and the like. Under the MDTQ system, polysiloxanes are completed in terms of symbolic subscripts denoting the total number of the various units in the polysiloxane, or in terms of their average value, or as specifically indicated ratios combined with molar ratios of the different units of weight-average molecular weight. A description of the alkane material. A higher relative molar amount of T, Q, T' and/or Q' relative to D, D', M and/or M' in a polysiloxane resin means a higher level of crosslinking. However, as noted above, the overall level of crosslinking can also be expressed by the ratio of oxygen to silicon.

Preferred polysiloxane resins useful herein are the MQ, MT, MTQ, MDQ and MDTQ resins. Accordingly, the preferred polysiloxane substituent is methyl. Especially preferred are MQ resins wherein the M:Q ratio is from about 0.5:1.0 to about 1.5:1.0 and the resin has a weight average molecular weight from about 1000 to about 10,000.

Commercially available polysiloxane compounds that can be used in the present invention include simethicone with trade name D-130, cetyl dimethicone with trade name DC2502, stearyl dimethicone with trade name DC2503, commercial product Emulsified polydimethylsiloxanes named DC1664 and DC1784, and an alkyl grafted copolymer polysiloxane emulsion with the trade name DC2-2845; all available from Dow Corning Corporation, and as filed in GB Emulsion polymerized Dimethiconol available from Toshiba Silicone as described in 2,303,857.

2. Hydrophobically modified cellulose ether

Hair care compositions of the present invention preferably contain from about 0.01% to about 2%, preferably from about 0.01% to about 1%, more preferably from about 0.1% to about 0.5%, by weight, of a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether.

Hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers increase bulk hair volume. Hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers can provide a balance between reduced flyaway hair and increased bulk hair when combined with the polypropylene glycol and ester oils of the present invention. Controlled levels of hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers in the conditioning compositions of the present invention can also provide acceptable rheological properties so that such compositions can provide satisfactory spreadability on the hair. The hydrophilic cellulose backbone has a weight average molecular weight of less than about 800,000 g/mol, preferably about 20,000 g/mol to about 700,000 g/mol, more preferably about 50,000 g/mol to about 700,000 g/mol. Hydroxyethyl cellulose of this molecular weight is known to be one of the most hydrophilic substances. Thus, hydroxyethyl cellulose can be modified to a greater extent than other hydrophilic cellulose backbones.

The hydrophilic cellulose backbone is further substituted with hydrophobic substituents via ether linkages to obtain a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether having a water solubility of less than 1%, preferably less than 0.2%. The hydrophobic substituent is selected from linear or branched chain alkyl groups with about 10 to about 22 carbon atoms; wherein the ratio of the hydrophilic group to the hydrophobic substituent in the hydrophilic cellulose main chain is about 2:1 to about 1000:1, preferably about 10:1 to about 100:1.

Commercially available hydrophobically modified cellulose ethers useful in the present invention include: cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose with the trade names NATROSOL PLUS 330CS and POLYSURF 67, both available from Aqualon Company, Delaware, USA, and having From about 0.4% to about 0.65% cetyl substitution by weight of the total polymer.

3. Cationic Conditioning Compounds

In the present invention, cationic hair conditioning compounds are preferred and include the above-described cationic surfactants, cationic polymers, the above-described cationic amino-substituted polysiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. If present, cationic hair conditioning compounds will generally be present at a level of preferably from about 0.5% to about 10%, more preferably from about 1% to about 3%, by weight of the composition.

The hair care compositions of the present invention may comprise one or more cationic polymers. The term "polymer" as used herein includes substances obtained by polymerizing one type of monomer or two (copolymer) or more types of monomers. The cationic polymer is preferably a water-soluble cationic polymer. The term "water-soluble" cationic polymer as used herein refers to a cationic polymer which, when in water (distilled or equivalent) at a concentration of 0.1% at 25°C, is sufficiently soluble in water to form a Essentially clear solution. Preferred cationic polymers are sufficiently soluble at a concentration of 0.5%, more preferably at a concentration of 1.0%, to form a substantially clear solution.

Cationic polymers useful in the present invention generally have a weight average molecular weight of at least about 5,000, preferably from about 10,000 to about 10 million, more preferably from about 100,000 to about 2 million. Cationic polymers generally have cationic nitrogen-containing moieties such as quaternary ammonium, cationic amino moieties, and mixtures thereof.

The cationic nitrogen-containing moiety is typically present as a substituent on a portion of the total monomer units of the cationic hair conditioning polymer. Thus, cationic polymers may comprise copolymers, terpolymers, etc. of quaternary ammonium or cationic amine substituted monomer units and other non-cationic units mentioned herein as spacer monomer units. Such copolymers are known in the art, and a variety of such polymers can be found in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, 3rd edition, edited by Estrin, Crosley, and Haynes (The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington , D.C., 1982).

The cationic polymer preferably has a cationic charge density of at least about 0.1 meq/g, more preferably at least about 0.5 meq/g, even more preferably at least about 1.1 meq/g, still more preferably at least about 1.2 meq/g. The cationic charge density of cationic polymers can be determined according to the Kjeldahl method. It will be appreciated by those skilled in the art that the charge density of polymers containing amino groups will vary with pH and the isoelectric point of the amino groups. The charge density should be within the above limits at the pH of the intended use.

Any anionic counterion can be used with the cationic polymer as long as the water solubility criteria are met. Suitable counterions include, for example, halides (eg, Cl, Br, I, or F, preferably Cl, Br, or I), sulfate, and methylsulfate.

Suitable cationic polymers include, for example, vinyl monomers having cationic amine or quaternary ammonium functionality with water soluble spacer monomers such as acrylamides, methacrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl acrylamides, alkyl and dialkyl methacrylamides, Copolymer of alkyl acrylates, alkyl methacrylates, vinylcaprolactone and vinylpyrrolidone. Depending on the particular species and the pH of the composition, the cationic amines can be primary, secondary or tertiary. In general, secondary and tertiary amines, especially tertiary amines, are preferred. Alkyl and dialkyl substituted monomers preferably have C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl groups, more preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl groups. Other suitable spacer monomers include vinyl esters, vinyl alcohol (obtained by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate), maleic anhydride, propylene glycol and ethylene glycol.

Amine-substituted vinyl monomers can be polymerized in the amine form and then optionally converted to ammonium by quaternization. The amines can also be similarly quaternized after the polymer is formed. For example, tertiary amine functional groups can be quaternized by reaction with salts of the formula R'X, where R' is a short chain alkyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₇ alkyl, more preferably C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, and X ^- is Anion that forms water-soluble salts with quaternary ammonium.

Suitable cationic amino and quaternary ammonium monomers include, for example, dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl acrylates, monoalkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, Trialkylmethacryloyloxyalkylammonium salts, trialkylacryloyloxyalkylammonium salts, diallyl quaternary ammonium salts substituted vinyl compounds, and cyclic cationic nitrogen-containing rings such as pyridinium, imidazolium Onium and quaternized vinyl quaternary ammonium monomers of pyrrolidones, such as alkyl vinyl imidazolium, alkyl vinyl pyridinium, alkyl vinyl pyrrolidone salts. The alkyl moiety of these monomers is preferably lower alkyl such as C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl, preferably C ₁ and C ₂ alkyl. Suitable amine-substituted vinyl monomers useful in the present invention include dialkylaminoalkyl acrylates, dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylates, dialkylaminoalkylacrylamides and dialkylaminoalkylisobutylenes. Amides, wherein the alkyl group is preferably a C ₁ -C ₇ hydrocarbon group, more preferably a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group.

Cationic polymers useful in the present invention may comprise mixtures of monomer units derived from amine- and/or quaternary ammonium substituted monomers and/or compatible spacer monomers.

Suitable cationic hair conditioning polymers include, for example: copolymers of 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and 1-vinyl-3-methylimidazolium salts (e.g., chloride salts) (according to the Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, "CTFA ", known in the industry as Polyquaternium-16), such as polymers available from BASF Wyandotte Corp. (Parsippany, NJ, USA) under the tradename LUVIQUAT (e.g. LUVIQUAT FC 370); 1-vinyl-2-pyrrolidone and isobutylene A copolymer of acid dimethylaminoethyl ester (according to CTFA, known in the industry as Polyquaternium-11), such as a polymer commercially available from Gaf Corporation (Wayne, NJ, USA) under the trade name GAFQUAT (eg GAFQUAT 755N); containing Polymers of cationic diallyl quaternary ammonium, including for example dimethyldiallylammonium chloride homopolymers and copolymers of acrylamide and dimethyldiallylammonium chloride (in the industry (CTFA) Polyquaternium 6 and Polyquaternium 7 respectively); and inorganic acid salts of aminoalkyl esters of homopolymers and copolymers of unsaturated carboxylic acids having 3 to 5 carbon atoms, e.g. published on February 22, 1977 Those disclosed in U.S. Patent 4,009,256 to Nowack et al.

其中：A是葡糖酐残基例如淀粉或纤维素葡糖酐残基，R是亚烷基氧化亚烷基、聚氧亚烷基、或羟基亚烷基或它们的组合，R¹、R²和R³独立地为含有最高达约18个碳原子的烷基、芳基、烷基芳基、芳基烷基、烷氧基烷基、或烷氧基芳基，并且每个阳离子部分的碳原子总数目(即R¹、R²和R³中的碳原子之和)优选为约20或更少，且X^-是如上所述的阴离子抗衡离子。Other useful cationic polymers include cationic polysaccharide polymers such as cationic cellulose derivatives and cationic starch derivatives. Cationic polysaccharide polymers suitable for use in the present invention include polymers of the formula:

Wherein: A is anhydroglucose residue such as starch or cellulose anhydroglucose residue, R is alkylene oxide alkylene, polyoxyalkylene, or hydroxyalkylene or their combination, R ¹ , R ² and R are ^{independently} alkyl, aryl, alkylaryl, arylalkyl, alkoxyalkyl, or alkoxyaryl containing up to about 18 carbon atoms, and each cationic moiety The total number of carbon atoms in (ie the sum of the carbon atoms in R ¹ , R ² and R ³ ) is preferably about 20 or less, and X ⁻ is an anionic counterion as described above.

Cationic cellulose is commercially available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) in its Polymet JR® and LR® series of polymers, as salts of hydroxyethylcellulose obtained by reaction with trimethylammonium-substituted epoxides obtained (in the industry (CTFA) known as Polyquaternium 10). Another class of cationic celluloses includes polymeric quaternium salts formed by reacting hydroxyethylcellulose with lauryldimethylammonium substituted epoxides (known in the industry (CTFA) as Polyquaternium 24). These materials are available from Amerchol Corp. (Edison, NJ, USA) under the trade designation Polymer LM-200(R).

Other cationic polymers that may be used include cationic guar derivatives such as guar hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride (available as the Jaguar R series from Celanese Corp.). Other materials include quaternary nitrogen-containing cellulose ethers (as described in U.S. Patent 3,962,418, incorporated herein by reference) and copolymers of etherified cellulose and starch (as described in U.S. Patent 3,958,581, incorporated herein by reference). This article is for reference).

4. Antimicrobial agent

Antimicrobial agents useful in the compositions of the present invention include those used as cosmetic insecticides and anti-dandruff agents, including: water soluble components such as octopyrolamine, water insoluble components such as 3,4 , 4'-trichlorocarbanilide (trichlosan), triclosan, and zinc pyrithione.

5. Herbal extracts

Compositions of the present invention may contain herbal extracts, including water-soluble and water-insoluble herbal extracts. The herbal plant extracts that can be used in the present invention include: Polygonum multiflorum extract, Bougainvillea extract, Phellodendron bark extract, Melilot (melilot) extract, wild sesame (white dead nettle) extract, licorice root extract, herbal Peony flower extract, saponaria extract, loofah extract, cinchona bark (cinchona) extract, creeping saxifrage (creeping saxifrage) extract, cattail grass (Sophora angustifolia) extract, water lily extract, fennel extract , primrose extract, rose flower extract, Rehmannia glutinosa extract, lemon extract, shikon extract, alloe extract, orris root bulb extract, eucalyptus extract, field horsetail Extract, sage extract, thyme extract, tea leaf extract, laver extract, cucumber extract, clove extract, red raspberry extract, melissa extract , Ginseng Extract, Carrot Extract, Horse Chestnut Extract, Peach Extract, Peach Leaf Extract, Mulberry Extract, Cornflower Extract, Hamamelis Extract, Placenta extract, thymus extract, silk extract, seaweed extract, althea extract, angelica dahurica extract, apple extract, almond extract, arnica extract , Artemisia capillaris extract, astragal extract, balm mint extract, perilla extract, birch bark extract, bitter orange peel extract, sweet camellia (Theasinensis ) extract, burdock root extract, burnet extract, butcherbroom extract, stephania cephalantha extract, chamomile extract, chrysanthemum extract, citrus peel (citrus unshiu peel) extract, cnidium (cnidium) extract, coix seed (coix seed) extract, coltsfoot (coltsfoot) extract, comfrey leaf extract, hawthorn extract, evening primrose oil, black catechu extract , ganoderma extract, gardenia extract, gentian extract, geranium extract, ginkgo extract, grape leaf extract, hawthorn extract, henna extract, honeysuckle extract, honeysuckle Flower extract, poria cocos extract, hops (hops) extract, horsetail extract, hydrangea extract, hypericum extract, isodonis extract, ivy extract, Japanese angelica extract, Japanese berberine extract , juniper extract, jujube extract, lady's mantle extract, lavender extract, lettuce extract, licorice extract, linden tree extract, comfrey extract, loquat extract, loofah ( luffa) extract, malloti extract, mallow extract, calendula flower extract, peony bark (moutanbark) extract, mistletoe extract, mukurossi extract, mugwort extract, mulberry root extract extract, nettle extract, nutmeg extract, citrus extract, parsley extract, hydrolyzed conchiorin protein, peony root extract, peppermint extract, Phillips philodendron extract, pine cone extract, bellflower extract, sealwort extract, rehmannia glutinosa extract, rice bran extract, rhubarb extract, rose fruit (rose fruit) extract, rosemary extract, royal jelly (royal jelly) jelly) extract, safflower extract, saffron extract, elderflower extract, soapwort extract, Sasa albo marginata extract, saxifrage extract, skullcap root extract, shiitake mushroom extract, purple Grass Extract, Sophora Extract, Laurel Extract, Calamus Root Extract, Swertia Extract, Thyme Extract, Linden Extract, Tomato Extract, Turmeric Extract, Uncaria Extract, Watercress (watercress) extract, logan extract, grape extract, white lily extract, rose hips (rose hips) extract, wild thyme extract, witch hazel extract, yarrow extract, yeast extract , Yucca extract, Zanthoxylum bungeanum extract and mixtures thereof.

Commercially available herbal extracts that can be used in the present invention include water soluble Polygonum multiflorum extracts available from Institute of Occupational Medicine, CAPM, China National Light Industry and Maruzen, and other herbal extracts listed above available from Maruzen.

The hair care compositions of the present invention may further contain other additional components which may be selected by the skilled artisan according to the desired properties of the final product and which are suitable to make the composition more cosmetically or aesthetically acceptable, or to give the composition The substance provides additional use benefits.

Examples of other preferred additional ingredients that may be formulated into the compositions of the present invention include: other conditioning agents such as hydrolyzed collagen available from Hormel under the tradename Peptein 2000, panthenol available from Roche, panthenol ethyl ether available from Roche , hydrolyzed keratin, proteins, plant extracts and nutrients; vitamins and/or amino acids such as vitamin E available from Eisai under the tradename Emix-d; surfactants such as cationic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, anionic surfactants Active agents, amphoteric surfactants and mixtures thereof; hair fixative polymers such as amphoteric fixative polymers, cationic fixative polymers, anionic fixative polymers, nonionic fixative polymers and silicone graft copolymers; preservatives such as Benzyl alcohol, methylparaben, propylparaben, and imidazolidinyl urea; pH adjusters such as citric acid, sodium citrate, succinic acid, phosphoric acid, sodium hydroxide, sodium carbonate; salts such as potassium acetate and sodium chloride; coloring agents such as any of the FD&C or D&C dyes; hair oxidizing (bleaching) agents such as hydrogen peroxide, perborates, and persulfates; hair reducing agents such as thioglycolates; fragrances; and anti-dandruff agents such as zinc pyrithione.

Preparation

The hair care compositions of the present invention can be formed by methods known in the art. Typically the polypropylene glycol, ester oil and gel base are combined in bulk in batch or continuous mixing equipment, heated, mixed together and/or homogenized, then cooled to room temperature for packaging and storage. Alternatively, the pentaerythritol ester oil and/or the trimethylol ester oil may be combined with a suitable carrier via any suitable mixing device.

To form the highly preferred lamellar gel matrix, the water is generally heated to at least about 70°C, preferably to about 80°C to about 90°C. The cationic surfactant and solid fatty compound are combined with water to form a mixture. The temperature of the mixture is preferably maintained above the melting temperature of the cationic surfactant and the melting temperature of the solid fatty compound and the entire mixture is homogenized. After mixing until no solids are observed, the mixture is gradually cooled (eg, at a rate of about 2°C/minute) to a temperature below 60°C, preferably below 55°C. During this gradual cooling, a significant increase in viscosity was observed from about 55°C to about 75°C. This indicates the formation of a lamellar gel matrix. After the gel matrix has formed, polypropylene glycol is added. It is then cooled to room temperature to form the final hair care composition. This results in hair care compositions containing alkyl ethoxylates with significantly improved stability and good properties.

Alternatively, the polypropylene glycol, ester oil and alkyl alkoxylate (if present) are first combined to form a premix which is then added and mixed into the formed gel matrix. The weight ratio of premix to gel matrix is generally from about 1:1 to about 1:99, preferably from about 1:2 to about 1:80, more preferably from about 1:5 to about 1:50. Without being bound by theory, it is believed that by adding the premix at a lower temperature close to the storage temperature of the final hair care composition, phase change during storage is minimized, viscosity is maintained, and greater stability is obtained. sex.

Instructions

The hair care composition according to the invention is suitable for use as, for example, a hair cosmetic composition, a hair styling composition, a hair conditioning composition, preferably as a leave-in and/or rinse-off hair conditioning composition, more preferably as a rinse-off hair Use in conditioning compositions. These hair care compositions are used in conventional fashion to provide conditioning, styling and/or other benefits of the present invention. Such use depends on the type of composition used, but generally involves applying an effective amount of the product of the present invention to the hair and then rinsing it from the hair (in the case of a conditioner), or allowing it to remain on the hair ( In the case of gels, creams and ointments). By "effective amount" is meant an amount sufficient to provide the desired bulk-reducing benefit. Typically from about 1 g to about 50 g is applied to the hair and/or scalp. Hair care compositions can be distributed throughout the hair, typically by rubbing or rubbing the hair and scalp, or the compositions can be selectively applied to certain sections of the hair. For leave-in applications, the hair care compositions are preferably applied to wet or damp hair before the hair is dried. After applying such hair care compositions to the hair, the hair is dried and styled according to the preference of the user. Alternatively, for example in the case of hair styling compositions, they may be applied to dry hair which is then combed or styled according to the user's preference.

Image Analysis Solution

The Image Analysis Protocol is a system and method designed to digitally determine and analyze the components of bulk hair area and flyaway hair area that form the total hair area. This protocol provides a quantifiable, repeatable method of accurately identifying, measuring, and comparing total hair area, flyaway hair area, and bulk hair area before and after treatment with a hair care composition. The total hair area, flyaway hair area, and bulk hair area are directly related to the total hair volume, flyaway hair volume, and bulk hair volume, respectively. The hair care compositions of the present invention provide a significant, noticeable reduction in bulk hair area, preferably at least about 10%, more preferably at least about 15%, even more preferably Smaller by at least about 25%.

It has been found that a reduction in bulk hair area is associated with one or more significant consumer desired benefits such as improved manageability and/or improved combability. For example, it is believed that reduced bulk hair area is associated with wet hair, which is softer, more sculpted, smoother and more supple than dry hair. When the hair is wet, the bulk hair area is reduced because the hairs are better aligned with each other and there is less space between each hair. Moisturized hair is also easier to comb and manage.

Referring to the accompanying drawings, accompanying drawing 1 is a top view of a preferred embodiment of the image analysis system used by the present invention. The image analysis system 10 is composed of a white screen 12 , an illumination device 14 , a sample holder 16 , a high-resolution digital camera 18 and a personal computer 20 . A sample holder 16 is placed between a white screen 12 and a high resolution digital camera 18 . The sample holder 16 is typically a clip or clamp capable of stably suspending a hair sample 22 about 40 cm in front of the white screen 12 . The sample holder 16 is typically about 80 cm from the high resolution digital camera 18 and is positioned above the field of view of the high resolution digital camera so as not to be visible in the captured image.

The white screen 12 is a rough-surfaced (eg, non-glare) white screen that, when illuminated, provides a constant and repeatable background for the hair sample 22 being measured. Since the difference between bulk hair area and flyaway hair area is judged based on the brightness of the image (see below), it is important to photograph the hair sample in front of a background with constant brightness. As shown in Figure 1, the preferred lighting setup 14 consists of a pair of photographic lights positioned on each side of the sample and directed toward a white screen. Each photographic light is preferably a pair of fluorescent tube lights housed within a lighting fixture, and is generally about 20 cm to about 60 cm from the side of the sample holder 16. This places it far enough away from the hair sample 22 that it will not be captured by the high resolution digital camera 18 . This ensures that the captured image only includes the image of the hair sample 22 and does not include, for example, the back side of the lighting device 14 . Therefore, the lighting device 14 should not interfere with or block the photograph being taken. Also, in such a configuration, the hair sample 22 is not directly illuminated by the lighting device 14 . Instead, the light first reflects off the white screen 12 and then passes through the hair sample 22 to reach the high resolution digital camera 18 . The high resolution camera 18 focuses on the hair sample 22 instead of the white screen 12 . For ease of use, a high resolution digital camera 18 is connected to a personal computer 20 and automatically transfers the captured images to the computer's imaging software. Such an arrangement provides an accurate picture of the outline of the hair sample 22 and avoids any glare and/or shadows that might interfere with the measurement and analysis of the hair sample 22 .

Preferably, the image analysis system should be located away from drafts or other factors that may disturb the hair sample, and in a controlled temperature and humidity environment to ensure reproducible results. A high-resolution digital camera (eg, Model HC-2500 3-CCD available from Fujifilm Co. of Tokyo, Japan) has a resolution of at least 1280 horizontal pixels and 1000 vertical pixels. The high resolution digital camera was calibrated to a linear gain such that the incremental differences between all luminance values (8-bit, 0-255 luminance value scale) were equal. Such calibration can be accomplished, for example, by using a standard grayscale calibration bath and/or an internal look-up table (LUT) of a high-resolution digital camera. For calibration, a white screen (when illuminated with a lighting device) should have a luminance value greater than about 245, preferably about 250 to about 255.

A typical hair sample consists of 15cm (5g) Asian black straight hair switches (hair switches) (purchased from Kawamuraya Co. of Osaka, Japan) or Caucasian brown straight hair switches (purchased from International Hair Importers & products Inc. of Bellerose, New York, USA). Straight black hair tufts for Asians are preferred because their contrast against a white screen is easier to see. Measurements using this image analysis scheme are significantly easier and more reproducible to perform when using black hair switches. However, the hair area reduction benefit, and corresponding hair volume reduction benefit, of the present invention is applicable to all hair types. Furthermore, it has been shown that the results obtained with hair switches do not differ much from those obtained during actual use on humans.

Hair samples were prepared as follows:

1) Wet the hair swatch with warm water (38°C) for 30 seconds.

2) Apply 1 ml of the ammonium lauryl sulfate solution on the hair swatch and lather for 30 seconds.

3) Rinse the hair swatch for 60 seconds.

4) Soak the hair sample in warm water for 24 hours.

5) Apply 1 ml of the ammonium lauryl sulfate solution on the hair swatch and lather for 30 seconds.

6) Rinse the hair swatch for 30 seconds.

7) Apply 1 ml of the ammonium lauryl sulfate solution to the hair swatch and lather for 30 seconds.

8) Rinse the hair swatch for 60 seconds.

9) For treated hair swatches: Apply 1 ml of the hair care composition to be tested to the hair swatch.

10) For treated hair swatches: Rinse the hair swatches for 10 seconds.

11) Comb the hair swatch 5 times starting from the front.

12) Comb the hair swatch 5 times starting from the back.

13) Squeeze out excess water from the hair sample and round the cross-section.

14) Place the hair swatches in a 21°C/65% relative humidity room and dry for 24 hours.

15) The hair sample is then ready to be measured by the image analysis system.

Only the treated hair samples were subjected to steps 9 and 10. To compare the effect of hair care compositions on bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area, "untreated photos" and then "treated photos" of hair samples were taken first. Compare the treated and untreated bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area shown in the photos. According to the method described above, the same hair switch is generally first used on a sample of untreated hair and then on a sample of treated hair. Use the same hair clusters to minimize variance between samples.

Once a hair sample (treated or untreated) 22 has been prepared, it is placed on the sample holder 16 positioned in front of the white screen 12 . The distances from the high-resolution digital camera 18 and the hair sample 22 should be the same for the unprocessed and processed photographs. For unprocessed and processed photographs, the hair samples should be lined up so that the high resolution digital camera can capture the broadest outline (in terms of the bottom end of the hair sample). Such an arrangement approximates the way hair is arranged on the scalp and therefore provides the most accurate view of the effect on hair area (and therefore hair volume) after treatment. This also ensures that the effect of reduction in bulk hair area, reduction in flyaway hair area and/or reduction in total hair area can be accurately measured.

Once the hair is substantially stationary, 8-bit, gray-scale) photographs are taken with a high-resolution digital camera 18 . The high resolution digital camera 18 assigns each pixel a brightness value of 0 (pure black) - 255 (pure white). The photos are then transferred to the personal computer 20 . Alternatively, but not preferably, a personal computer can assign an intensity value of 0-255 to each pixel. Such photographs are also referred to as "captured images" and may be stored electronically, eg, as TIFF (Tagged Image File Format) files for future reference. In captured images, each hair sample appeared to appear gray to black against a white background. Imaging software (eg, Optimas v.6.2, available from Media Cybernetics of Silver Springs, Maryland, USA) then analyzes the captured images pixel by pixel. Imaging software uses the brightness value assigned to each pixel by the camera to classify each pixel as black (brightness value=0-120), gray (brightness value=121-235), or white (brightness value=236 -255). The imaging software then defines "piles of hair" in the captured image as the largest contiguous area bounded by black lines. "Scattered hair" is defined as black, gray, and white areas delimited by one or more gray lines excluding bulked hair. The term "bounded" as used herein in relation to imaging software means that the referenced area is completely surrounded by at least one specified shading.

The imaging software then calculates the area of each region, usually expressed in ^cm2 , to obtain the bulk hair area and flyaway hair area. The total hair area is the sum of the bulk hair area and the flyaway hair area. Thus, bulk hair area and/or flyaway hair area can also be calculated as a percentage of the total hair area. In a preferred embodiment, the imaging software automatically sets the total area of untreated hair to 1.0 and normalizes other values accordingly. The imaging software also maps and/or color codes areas of hair accumulation and/or areas of hair scattering for easy reference.

The reduction in hair volume after treatment is based on data obtained by comparative analysis of treated and untreated hair samples. Calculate the total untreated hair area (UTA), untreated bulk hair area (UBA) and untreated flyaway hair area (UFA). This was then compared to the calculated Total Treated Hair Area (TTA), Treated Bulk Hair Area (TBA) and Treated Hair Area (TFA). The reduction in bulk hair area after treatment is equivalent to the reduction in bulk hair volume and is calculated according to the following formula:

Reduction in bulk hair area = 100*[1-(TBA/UBA)].

Similarly, the percent reduction in flyaway hair area after treatment is equivalent to the reduction in flyaway hair volume and is calculated according to the following formula:

Reduction of flyaway hair area = 100*[1-(TFA/UFA)].

The percentage reduction in total hair area after treatment is equivalent to the reduction in total hair volume and is calculated according to the following formula:

Reduction in total hair area = 100*[1-(TTA/UTA)].

A given hair care composition (or control) is generally tested on at least 3 separate hair samples. The reduction in bulk hair area, the reduction in flyaway hair area, and the reduction in total hair area are then calculated for each hair sample, and the average reduction in bulk hair area, the average reduction in flyaway hair area, and the average total hair area are calculated. decrease.

In a preferred embodiment of the image analysis protocol, 2 pictures are taken for each treated and untreated sample. The first picture corresponds to the widest profile of the hair sample, while the second picture corresponds to the narrowest profile of the hair sample, typically a 90° rotation from the widest profile. Average values for untreated bulk hair area, treated bulk hair area, etc. were then calculated. These averages are then used in the above formula. Such a method may be especially useful for lightly curly hair samples, either due to their natural contour or due to washing.

Examples of the present invention are provided hereinafter, which are illustrative only and are not intended to limit the invention in any way, since various changes may be made therein without departing from the spirit and scope of the invention. Ingredients are identified by chemical name or CTFA name, or as defined below.

Example 1

Hair care compositions are formed by the following method. All percentages are by weight of the final hair care composition.

A suitable carrier is a lamellar gel matrix (all percentages are by weight of the final hair care composition) formed by heating about 78% deionized water to about 85°C and adding 2% stearylaminopropyl Dimethylamine (purchased from Nikko Chemical (Tokyo, Japan)) with 2.5% cetyl alcohol and 4.5% stearyl alcohol (purchased from Shin-nihon Rika (Tokyo, Japan)) and 0.64% L-glutamic acid (purchased from Ajinomoto (Osaka, Japan)) mixed. The aqueous mixture was held at about 85°C for 5 minutes until the components were well mixed and no solids were observed. The aqueous composition was then gradually cooled to about 55°C and maintained at that temperature until a lamellar gel formed. To this gel base were also added about 5% ester oil (caprylic/capric triglyceride, available under the tradename Miglyol 812 from Degussa-Hüls AG (Frankfurt, Germany)) and 1% pentaerythritol tetraisostearate ( KAK P.T.I., available from Koukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Chiba Prefecture, Japan).

5% PPG-34 (New Pol PP-2000, purchased from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan; weight average molecular weight = 2,000 g/mol) was mixed with the lamellar gel matrix and stirred continuously for 15 minutes to ensure homogenization. Perfume, preservatives and other ingredients are added to the hair care composition. During this time, the lamellar gel matrix was maintained at about 55°C. After it has been homogenized, it is allowed to cool to room temperature, packaged and stored.

The hair conditioning compositions are suitable as rinse-off or leave-on forms. The hair conditioning compositions also provide significant reduction in bulk hair area and total hair area when applied and used normally.

Example 2

The following examples demonstrate the beneficial effects of the present invention. Example 2 - A rinse-off conditioning composition of the present invention was prepared following the procedure described in Example 1. Example 2 cetyl alcohol 2.857 stearyl alcohol 5.143 stearamidopropyl dimethylamine 2.000 L-glutamic acid 0.640 PPG-34 5.000 Miglyol 812 5.000 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate 1.000 water, small amount of substance Balance Viscosity (cps) 23900 Volumetric data (vs. unprocessed) % Reduction in Bulk Hair Area 29 % reduction in flyaway hair area 32 % reduction in total hair area 30

Example 2 provided significant reductions in bulk hair area, flyaway hair area, and total hair area.

Example 3

The following hair conditioning compositions containing a lamellar gel base were prepared as described in Example 1: components A B C D. E. f PPG-34 ^* 1 5.0 - - - - 2.0 Polypropylene Glycol ^* 2 - 3.0 - - - 1.0 Polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether ^* 3 - - 4.0 - - - Polyoxypropylene sorbitol ^* 4 - - - 5.0 - - PPG-10 Butanediol ^* 5 - - - - 2.0 1.0 Cetyl Hydroxyethyl Cellulose ^* 6 0.25 - - - - 0.25 Oleyl Alcohol ^* 7 - - - 1.0 - 1.0 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ^* 8 5.0 5.0 3.0 5.0 5.0 - Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate ^* 9 1.0 1.0 1.0 - - 7.5 Mineral oil ^* 10 - - 1.0 - 1.0 - Stearamidopropyldimethylamine ^* 11 2.0 2.0 - - - 1.0 L-glutamic acid 0.6 - - - - 0.3 lactic acid - 1.0 - - - - Behenyltrimethylammonium chloride ^* 12 - - 2.0 - - - Stearyltrimethylammonium chloride ^* 13 - - - 2.0 - - Cetyltrimethylammonium Chloride ^* 14 - - - - - 1.0 Distearyldimethylammonium chloride ^* 15 - - - - 2.0 - Cetyl Alcohol ^* 16 2.5 2.4 5.6 1.8 2.0 3.0 Stearyl Alcohol ^* 17 4.5 3.6 - 2.7 4.0 5.0 Cyclomethicone & Dimethicone ^* 18 4.0 - 8.0 3.0 4.0 2.0 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol ^* 19 - 1.0 - - - 2.0 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol ^* 20 - - - 2.0 - - Hexylene glycol - - - - 2.0 - Polyethylene glycol 200 ^* 21 - 1.0 - - - 1.0 2,4-Dimethoxy-6-(1'-pyrenyl)-1,3,5-triazine ^* 22 - - - - - 0.5 Porphyrin ^* 23 - - - - 0.5 - Benzophenone-4 ^* 24 - - 0.2 - - - Octyl Methoxycinnamate ^* 25 - 0.1 - 1.0 - - Vitamin E - - - - 0.05 - Panthenol ^* 26 0.1 - - - - - Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 EDTA 0.2 0.1 - - 0.1 0.2 EDTA disodium salt - 0.1 0.1 0.2 0.1 - benzyl alcohol 0.4 0.4 0.5 0.4 0.2 0.40 spices 0.2 0.1 0.2 0.2 0.20 0.2 Deionized water Moderate to 100%

Definition of each component

^* 1 New Pol PP-2000, purchased from Sanyo Kasei

^* 2 New Pol PP-4000, purchased from Sanyo Kasei, weight average molecular weight = 4000.

^* 3 New Pol GP-4000 from Sanyo Kasei

^* 4 New Pol SP-4000 from Sanyo Kasei

^* 5 Probutyl DB-10 available from Croda, Inc.

^* 6 NATROSOL PLUS 330CS, available from Aqualon Co., Delaware, USA.

^* 7 UNJECOL 90BHR from Shin-nihon Rika

^* 8 Miglyol 812 available from Degussa-Hüls AG

^* 9 KAK PTI, purchased from Koukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Chiba Prefecture, Japan

^* 10 BENOL, purchased from Witco Chemicals, Greenwich, Connecticut, USA

^* 11 Purchased from Nikko Chemical, Tokyo, Japan

^* 12 Varisoft BT85 from Witco Chemicals

^* 13 Varisoft TSC from Witco Chemicals

^* 14 Varisoft CTB40 from Witco Chemicals

^* 15 Varisoft TA100 from Witco Chemicals

^* 16 KONOL series, purchased from Shin-nihon Rika

^* 17 KONOL series, purchased from Shin-nihon Rika

^* 18 85%/15% D5 cyclomethicone blended with dimethicone gum (weight average molecular weight from about 400,000 to about 600,000) available from General Electric Co.

^* 19 DCQ2-1403 available from Dow Corning

^* 20 DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning

^* 21 Carbowax PEG200 from Union Carbide

^* 22 purchased from Ciba Geigy

^* 23 purchased from Wako Chemical, Osaka, Japan

^* 24 Uvnul MS-40 from BASF

^* 25 Parasol MCX from Roche

^* 26 Available from Roche.

Example 4

Hair care compositions are formed by the following methods. All percentages are by weight of the final hair care composition.

About 2% polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether (trade name New Pol GP-4000, purchased from Sanyo Kasei, Osaka, Japan) was mixed with an aqueous carrier [95% deionized water, 0.5% acrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymer 1 (commercial PEMULEN TR-1, available from B.F. Goodrich, Cleveland, Ohio, U.S.A.), 0.2% Laureth-12 (Nikko Chemical, Tokyo, Japan) and 0.5% dimethicone and dimethiconol (trade name DCQ2-1403, available from Dow Corning, Midland, Michigan, U.S.A.)] mixed at a temperature of about 35°C. 1% trimethylolpropane trioleate (KAKT.T.I., available from Koukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Chiba Prefecture, Japan) was added. Perfume, preservatives and remaining minor components are also added to the hair care composition.

The resulting hair care compositions have significantly improved stability and/or improved deposition efficiency of the alkyl ethoxylates, even when the suitable carrier is not a gel matrix. When applied to the hair as a hair lotion composition and the hair was dried, a significant reduction in bulk hair area and total hair area was observed.

Example 5

The following hair care compositions were formed by the methods described herein: Table 1 A B C D. E. f PPG-34 ^* 1 5.0 - - - - 2.0 Polypropylene Glycol ^* 2 - 3.0 - - - 1.0 Polyoxypropylene glyceryl ether ^* 3 - - 4.0 - - - Polyoxypropylene sorbitol ^* 4 - - - 5.0 - - PPG-10 Butanediol ^* 5 - - - - 2.0 1.0 Oleyl alcohol ^* 6 1.0 - - - - - Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride ^* 7 - - 1.0 0.5 - - Trimethylolpropane Trioleate ^* 8 - 2.0 - 1.0 - 1.5 Pentaerythritol tetraisostearate ^* 9 1.0 - 2.0 - 2.5 - Mineral oil ^* 10 - - - - - 1.0 Carbomer 1 ^* 11 0.1 - 0.2 - 0.1 - Carbomer 2 ^* 12 - - - 0.5 - 0.3 Triethanolamine ^* 13 0.5 0.6 0.7 0.6 0.5 0.5 Dimethicone/Dimethiconol ^* 14 1.0 1.0 - - - 2.0 Cyclomethicone/Dimethiconol ^* 15 - - - 2.0 - - Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone ^* 16 - - 2.0 - 2.0 - Cyclomethicone ^* 17 - - 1.0 - - - Polyquaternium-39 ^* 18 0.2 0.1 - - - - Hexylene glycol - - - - 2.0 - Polyethylene glycol 200 ^* 19 - 2.0 - - - 1.0 2,4-dimethoxy-6-(1'-pyrenyl)-1,3,5-triazine ^* 20 - - - - - 1.0 Porphyrin ^* 21 - - - - 1.0 - Benzophenone-4 ^* 22 0.1 - 0.2 - - - Octyl Methoxycinnamate ^* 23 - 0.1 - 1.0 - - Vitamin E - - - - 0.05 - Panthenol ^* 24 0.1 - - - - - Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 EDTA disodium salt 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 spice solution 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Deionized water Moderate to 100% Definition of each component ^* 1 New Pol PP-2000, available from Sanyo Kasei ^* 2 New Pol PP-4000, available from Sanyo Kasei, weight average molecular weight = 4000. ^* 3 New Pol GP-4000, available from Sanyo Kasei ^* 4 New Pol SP-4000, available from Sanyo Kasei ^* 5 Probutyl DB-10, available from Croda, Inc. ^* 6 UNJECOL 90BHR, available from Shin-nihon Rika ^* 7 Miglyol 812, available from Degussa-Hüls AG ^* 8 KAK TTI, Available from Koukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co., Chiba Prefecture, Japan ^* 9 KAK PTI, available from Koukyu Alcohol Kogyo Co. ^* 10 BENOL, available from Witco Chemicals ^* 11 Carbopol 981, available from BFGoodrich ^* 12 Carbopol Ultrez 10, available from BFGoodrich ^* 13 Available from Nippon Shokubai ^* 14 DCQ2-1403 available from Dow Corning ^* 15 DCQ2-1401 available from Dow Corning ^* 16 Gum/Cyclomethicone blend available from Shin-Etsu ^* 17 DC345 available from Dow Corning ^* 18 Merquat 3330 available from Calgon, Co., Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania, USA. ^* 19 Carbowax PEG200 available from Union Carbide ^* 20 available from Ciba Geigy ^* 21 available from Wako Chemical, Osaka, Japan ^* 22 Uvnul MS- 40, available from BASF ^* 23 Parasol MCX, available from Roche ^* 24 available from Roche.

Claims (10)

1. A hair care composition comprising: A. Polypropylene glycol having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol; B. Ester oil of the following formula: R ¹ COOR ¹ (Formula V), wherein each R ¹ is independently C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, and the ester oil has an HLB value of less than about 4; and C. Gel matrix comprising cationic surfactant, solid fatty compound and water. 2. The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein said hair care composition reduces bulk hair area by at least about 10% as determined by an image analysis protocol. 3. The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein the polypropylene glycol has a solubility in water of less than about 1 g/100 g water. 4. The hair care composition of claim 1, further comprising an alkyl alkoxylate of the formula: R ³ -O-(R ² -O) _n H (formula VI), wherein R ² is independently a C ₂ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ³ is an alkyl group having about 1 to about 30 carbon atoms, and n is A value of from about 1 to about 10, wherein the alkyl alkoxylate has a weight average molecular weight of less than about 500 g/mol, and the alkyl alkoxylate has an HLB value of from about 5 to about 12. 5. The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein the polypropylene glycol has a weight average molecular weight of from about 1,000 g/mol to about 60,000 g/mol. 6. The hair care composition of claim 1, further comprising a hydrophobically modified cellulose ether. 7. The hair care composition of claim 1, wherein said polypropylene glycol is selected from the group consisting of mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymers, and mixtures thereof, Wherein the single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula: HO—(C ₃ H ₆ O) _a H (Formula I), wherein a has a value from about 4 to about 400, and Wherein the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula:

wherein n is from about 0 to about 10, wherein each R is independently selected from H and C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, wherein each b is independently from about 0 to about 2, wherein c and d are independently from about 0 to About 2, b+c+d is at least about 2, wherein each e is independently 0 or 1, wherein each x, y, and z is independently a value from about 1 to about 120. 8. A hair care composition comprising: A. Polypropylene glycol having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol; B. An ester oil selected from the group consisting of pentaerythritol ester oils, trimethylol ester oils, and mixtures thereof, said ester oil having an HLB value of less than about 4; and C. Suitable carrier. 9. A hair care composition according to claim 8, wherein the suitable carrier is a gel matrix comprising a cationic surfactant, a solid fatty compound and water. 10. A hair care composition comprising: A. From about 0.5% to about 10%, by weight of the hair care composition, of polypropylene glycol having a weight average molecular weight of from about 200 g/mol to about 100,000 g/mol, wherein the polypropylene glycol is selected from the group consisting of mono-polypropylene glycol-chain segments polymers, multi-polypropylene glycol chain segment polymers, and mixtures thereof, said polypropylene glycol having a solubility in water of less than about 1 g/100 g water, Wherein the single-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula: HO-(C ₃ H ₆ O) _a H (Formula I), wherein a is from about 4 to about 400, and Wherein the multi-polypropylene glycol-chain segment polymer has the following formula: wherein n is from about 0 to about 10, wherein each R is independently selected from H and C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, wherein each b is independently from about 0 to about 2, wherein c and d are independently from about 0 to About 2, b+c+d is at least about 2, wherein each e is independently 0 or 1, wherein each x, y and z is independently a value of about 1 to about 120; B. From about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition of an ester oil of the formula: R ¹ COOR ¹ (Formula V), wherein each R ¹ is independently C ₁ -C ₂₂ alkyl, and the HLB value of the ester oil is less than about 4; C. A gel matrix containing cationic surfactant, solid fatty compound and water from about 60% to about 99% by weight of the composition, wherein the weight ratio of cationic surfactant to solid fatty compound is from about 1:1 to about 1:20; D. Balanced amounts of other additional components, wherein the hair care composition has a viscosity of from about 5,000 cps to about 40,000 cps and the hair care composition reduces bulk hair area by at least about 10% as determined by an image analysis protocol.

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