The applicant finds, and it also is a purpose of the present invention, promptly use a kind of saturated long-chain fatty alcohol of line style or contain at least 50% weight, have the mixture of aliphatic alcohol of a kind of alcohol of 22 carbon atoms, can produce a kind of pearl effect, be improved so that contain the pearl effect of the compositions of at least a surfactant alkali and at least a opacifier and/or pearling agent.
A theme of the present invention contains at least a surfactant alkali exactly, the fatty alcohol mixture of at least a line style, saturated long-chain fatty alcohol or a kind of alcohol that contains 22 carbon atoms with at least 50% weight and the compositions of at least a opacifier and/or pearling agent.
Can be according to compositions of the present invention as a kind of pearly-lustre basic components of cosmetic composition, the pearl effect that it produced is better than from opacifier and/or pearling agent resulting.
Another theme of the present invention be use the saturated long-chain fatty alcohol of line style or contain the mixture of aliphatic alcohol of a kind of alcohol that contains 22 carbon atoms of at least 50% weight and a kind of opacifier as the pearly-lustre basic components.
Said composition shows splendid uniformity and the stability as pearling agent, and viscosity is also good, and they are applied to keratin substances is gratifying.
Narration and example below having read, all the other themes of the present invention have just come into plain view.
The saturated long-chain fatty alcohol of line style or with respect to the mixture total weight amount contains 22 carbon atoms that have of at least 50% weight, especially contains the C that has of at least 70% weight
22The fatty alcohol mixture of alcohol.
Usually, the saturated long-chain fat alcohol mixture of line style contains C
16-C
24Aliphatic alcohol.For the mixture total weight amount, C
16And C
24Aliphatic alcohol generally all is less than 2% weight, and C
18Chain is less than 10% weight.
This class aliphatic alcohol, particularly Condea company are with trade name Nafol 1822 C product solds, and it contains the 0.5%C that has an appointment
16, 4%-6%C
18, 15%-19%C
20, 74-78%C
22With about 1.5%C
24, or Condea company is with trade name Nafol 2298 product solds, and it contains 98%C
22Alcohol.
Can be selected from according to operable pearling agent of the present invention and/or opacifier:
A) aliphatic dialkyl ether, it is a solid being less than or equal under about 30 ℃ temperature, for example as the dialkyl ether of formula (I):
(I) wherein R and R ' can be identical or different for R-O-R ', represent one saturated or unsaturated, line style or the branched 12-30 carbon atom that contains, the alkyl of preferred 14-24 carbon atom, R and R ' to choose the chemical compound that will make formula (I) be solid when temperature is less than or equal to about 30 ℃.In more detail, R and R ' are equal to.
R and R ' preferably represent stearyl.
According to the adaptable dialkyl ether of the present invention is insoluble in compositions.
These chemical compounds can be according to patent application DE 4,127, the method preparation described in 230.
Operable within the scope of the invention two hard ester acyl group ethers are commercially available, are particularly sold with title Cutina KE3178 by Henkel company.
B) contain 27-48 carbon atom and the alcohol corresponding to formula (II) of 1 or 2 ether and/or thioether or sulfoxide radicals is arranged:
R
1-X-[C
2H
3(OH)]-CH
2-Y-R
2(II) R wherein
1And R
2Be equal to mutually, represent line style C
12-C
24Alkyl; X represents an oxygen atom, sulphur atom or a sulfoxide radicals or a methylene; Y represents an oxygen atom, sulphur atom or sulfoxide radicals or methylene; When Y represents a methylene, at R
1And R
2The summation of carbon number is in the scope of 24-44 in the base, preferred 28-40 (containing);
When Y does not represent a methylene, at R
1And R
2The summation of the carbon atom that exists in the base in the scope of 24-44, preferred 28-40 (containing);
When X or Y represented sulfoxide group, Y or X did not represent sulfur.
According to the preferably such chemical compounds of the applied formula of the present invention (II) chemical compound, wherein X represents oxygen, and Y represents methylene, and R
1And R
2Representative contains the group of 12-22 carbon atom.
These chemical compounds can be according to patent EP 457,688 preparations.
According to the present invention, the line style saturated fatty alcohol that contain at least 50% weight, has 22 carbon atoms can be 0.5%-15% weight for the gross weight of final composition, preferred 0.5%-5% weight, more preferably 0.5%-3% weight.
According to the present invention, pearling agent and/or opacifier can be 0.5%-15% weight for the gross weight of final composition, preferred 0.5%-5% weight, more preferably 1%-3% weight.
Opacifier/C
22The ratio of aliphatic alcohol generally is 0.2-8, preferred 0.3-5.
According to a kind of preferred version of the present invention, cosmetic composition also can contain the conditioner of keratin substances.
Thereby another theme of the present invention is exactly the novel cosmetic compositions, particularly foam is regulated and cleaning composition, in the cosmetics acceptable medium, contain a kind of surfactant alkali, at least a conditioner, the saturated long-chain fatty alcohol of at least a line style or contain fatty alcohol mixture and at least a opacifier and/or the pearling agent of a kind of alcohol with 22 carbon atoms of at least 50% weight.
The compositions that makes so also has good cleaning and foam performance, and can make keratin substances, and especially hair and/or skin feel very soft.
When this polymer is applied to hair, except their cleaning character, also hair there is conditioning performance, the hair of promptly handling smoothly, is easily untied and soft feel.Hair looks nature, no greasy dirt.
According to the present invention, the compositions that contains conditioner is stable.The particularly interior during use situation that does not discharge conditioner or thickening agent in compositions uncontrollably takes place.Finally, compositions has novel and structure fusing.Foam is light, rinsing easily.
Another theme of the present invention is a method of using said composition washing and conditioning.
It is to use a kind of fatty alcohol mixture with a kind of alcohol of 22 carbon atoms that contains the saturated long-chain fatty alcohol of at least a line style or contain at least 50% weight that the present invention also has a theme, with at least a opacifier and/or the pearling agent reagent as the insoluble conditioner that suspends in the cosmetic composition, the foam that particularly contains surfactant alkali in the acceptable water-bearing media of cosmetics is regulated and cleaning compositions.
When compositions contained at least a conditioner, these conditioners generally were selected from poly-alpha-olefin, fluorocarbon oil, and fluorine wax, fluorubber, carboxylate, cationic polymer, siloxanes, mineral, plant or animal oil, ceramide, the false vitalility is through amide and its mixture.
The mixture of cosmetics acceptable medium preferred water or water and cosmetics or Dermatology acceptable solvent (as single alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, glycol ether or fatty acid ester), they can use separately or use as mixture.
To mention lower aliphatic alcohols especially, as ethanol or isopropyl alcohol, polyhydric alcohol, as diethylene glycol, glycerol, sorbitol, the alkyl ether of glycol ether and ethylene glycol or diethylene glycol.
Compositions of the present invention also can contain at least a additive, and it is selected from chelating agen, softening agent, foam conditioner, dyestuff, other pearling agents, hydrating agents, dandruff removing agent or anti-cortex bleeding, other suspending agents, contains line style or the C of branch
16-C
60The fatty acid of chain, hydroxy acid, electrolyte, thickening agent, fatty acid ester, fatty glyceride, surfactant, spice, antiseptic, sunscreen, protein, vitamin, polymer and any other are usually used in the additive of cosmetics.
According to the present invention, the additives ratio that exists in the compositions, for composition total weight, can be in the 0-40% weight range.The accurate consumption of every kind of additive depends on its characteristic, and the people who is familiar with this area is easy to determine.
Much less, those skilled in the art that can be careful and select above-mentioned one or more chemical compounds to be added to according in the compositions of the present invention, like this and compositions of the present invention favourable character that internal relation arranged can (or basically not can) be subjected to the adverse effect of the interpolation of this imagination.
Form according to compositions of the present invention can be the lotion or the foam of gel, Emulsion, butyrous, more or less thickening.
Can be used for the processing angle protein substance according to compositions of the present invention, as hair, skin, eyelashes, eyebrow, fingernail, lip, hair, especially hair.
Said composition also can be used for washing and clean keratin substances, as hair and skin.
,, be shaped generally as product according to compositions of the present invention as hair especially for washing, nurse, nurse one's health or keeping hair style or make keratin substances.
Compositions of the present invention can be, especially the form of shampoo, rinse or built-in (leave in) conditioner, be used to make the composition forms of hair permanent curl, aligning, dyeing or bleaching, or used before or after dyeing, bleaching, permanent curl or straightening hair with the form of compositions, or between two steps of permanent curl and hair straightening, use in addition.Preferred composition is washing and the composition, foam that is used for hair and/or skin.
Especially, be the foaming-detergent compositions according to compositions of the present invention, as shampoo, shower gels or bubble bath.In this specific embodiments of the present invention, compositions contains surface washing activating agent alkali, and it is normally aqueous.
The surfactant that forms washing soda can be selected from anion, both sexes, nonionic, amphion, cationic surfactant, all can separately or as mixture.
The minimum of washing soda should just in time make final composition have enough gratifying foaming and/or washability.
Like this, according to the present invention, for the gross weight of final composition, washing soda can be a 4%-30% weight, preferred 6%-25% weight, more preferably 8%-20% weight.
Be suitable for surfactant of the present invention particularly described as follows these:
(i) anion surfactant:
Within the scope of the invention, its characteristic is not critical feature.
Like this, within the scope of the invention, be adaptable anion surfactant, use separately or as mixture, can mention the salt (especially alkali metal salt, particularly sodium salt, ammonium salt, amine salt, amino alkoxide or magnesium salt) of (non-limitative illustration) following compounds especially: alkyl sulfate, alkyl ether sulfate, alkylamidoalkyl ether sulfate, alkyl aryl polyether sulfate, monoglyceride sulfate; Alkylsulfonate, alkylphosphonic, alkylamidoalkyl sulfonate, alkylaryl sulfonate, alpha-alkene sulfonate, alkane sulfonate; Alkyl sulfo succinate, alkyl ether sulfo succinate, alkylamidoalkyl sulfosuccinate; The alkyl sulphosuccinamate; Alkyl sulfoacetate; Alkyl ether phosphate; Acyl sarcosinates; Acyl isethinate and N-acyl taurine salt, the alkyl of all these different chemical compounds or acyl group preferably contain 8-24 carbon atom, and preferred phenyl of aryl and benzyl.In also applicable anion surfactant, also can point out soap, as oleic acid, castor oil acid, Palmic acid and stearate, cocinic acid or hydrogenated coconut oleic acid; Acyl-lactate, wherein acyl group contains 8-20 carbon atom.Also may use the weak anionic surfactant,, also have poly-alkoxylation (C as D-galactoside alduronic acid and its salt
6-C
24) alkyl ether carboxylic acid, poly-alkoxylation (C
6-C
24) the alkyl aryl ether carboxylic acid, poly-alkoxylation (C
6-C
24) salt of alkylamidoalkyl ether carboxylic acid and they, particularly those contain 2-50 ethylene oxide group, reach their mixture.
According to the present invention, used anion surfactant preferred alkyl sulfate and alkyl ether sulfate and its mixture.
(ii) non-ionic surface active agent:
Non-ionic surface active agent itself be the chemical compound known (particularly referring to M.R.Porter, Blackie ﹠amp; Son (Glasgow and London) publishes, " Handbook ofSurfactants ", 1991, the content of the relevant this respect of pp.116-178 one book), within the scope of the invention, their characteristic is not critical feature.Like this, they can be especially selected from (non-limiting listing) polyethoxylated, poly-propoxylation or bound to polyglycerol fatty acid, alkyl phenol, the salmefamol with an aliphatic chain that contains (for example) 8-10 carbon atom or alcohol, the number of oxirane or propylene oxide group especially can be in the scope of 2-50, and the number of glycerol group especially can be in the scope of 2-30.Also can point out the copolymer of oxirane and expoxy propane, the condensation substance of oxirane and expoxy propane and aliphatic alcohol; The polyethoxylated fatty acid amide preferably has the 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide, and the bound to polyglycerol fatty acid amide on average contains the 1-5 mole, particularly 1.5-4 mole of glycerin group; The polyethoxylated aliphatic amine preferably has 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide group; Ethoxylated fatty acid ester with anhydro sorbitol of 2-30 moles of ethylene oxide; Sucrose fatty acid ester, cithrol, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkylated glucamine derivant, the oxidation amine is as (C
10-C
14) alkyl amine oxide or N-amidopropyl morpholine oxide.Should be noted that alkylpolyglycosides constitutes suitable especially non-ionic surface active in the scope of the invention.
(iii) both sexes or zwitterionic surfactant:
The characteristic of both sexes within the scope of the invention or zwitterionic surfactant is not critical characteristics, can be (non-limiting listing) aliphatic secondary amine or tertiary amines derived thing especially, wherein aliphatic group be line style or the branched chain that contains 8-18 carbon atom and contain at least a water solubilization anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate); Also can point out (C
8-C
20) alkyl betaine, sulfobetaines, (C
8-C
20) alkylamide (C
1-C
6) alkyl betaine or (C
8-C
20) alkylamide (C
1-C
6) the alkyl sulfobetaines.
In amine derivative, can mention the product of selling with title Miranol, as at United States Patent (USP) 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, described in 1982, the corresponding construction of both sexes carboxyl glycinate (Amphocarboxyglycinates) by name and both sexes carboxyl propionate (Amphocarboxypropionates) is as follows:
R
2-CONHCH
2CH
2-N (R
3) (R
4) (CH
2COO-) (2) R wherein
2Represent alkyl (to derive from the sour R that exists in the hydrolysis Oleum Cocois
2-COOR), heptyl, nonyl or undecyl, R
3Represent beta-hydroxyethyl, and R
4Represent carboxymethyl; With
R
2 '-CONHCH
2CH
2(C) (3) wherein for-N (B): B representative-CH
2CH
2OX ', C representative-(CH
2)
z-Y ', z=1 or 2, X ' representative-CH
2CH
2-COOH base or a hydrogen atom, Y ' representative-COOH or-CH
2-CHOH-SO
3The H base, R
2 'Represent the sour R that exists in Oleum Cocois or the hydrolysis Semen Lini oil
9The alkyl of-COOH, alkyl, particularly C
7, C
9, C
11Or C
13Alkyl, C
17Alkyl and isomeric form thereof, or unsaturated C
17Base.
As an example, can point out the Cortex cocois radicis both sexes carboxyl glycinate with trade name MiranolC2M concentrate (concentrate) sale by Rhodia Chimie company.
(IV) cationic surfactant:
Within the scope of the invention, the characteristic of cationic surfactant is not critical characteristics, can be pointed out that (non-limiting listing) especially: optional poly-alkoxylation primary, the salt of Zhongshu aliphatic amine; Quaternary ammonium salt is as tetra-allkylammonium, alkylamide alkyl trialkyl ammonium, triakyl benzyl ammonium, trialkyl hydroxyalkyl ammonium or alkyl pyridine chloride or bromide; Imidazolidine derivatives; Or the amine oxide of cation feature.
Theme of the present invention also relates to the cosmetics processing procedure of a keratin substances such as hair, and it is constructed as follows: compositions defined above is administered on the hair, and then, after making compositions be trapped in the hair arbitrarily, water arbitrarily rinses it.
Compositions of the present invention can mainly prepare according to two processes:
At first under agitation the whole batchings with compositions are heated to about 80 ℃, make mixture be cooled to room temperature then.The secondth, preparation pearly-lustre concentrate, it contains surfactant, opacifier or pearling agent and aliphatic alcohol, water, pH agent and optional antiseptic.Opacifier or pearling agent and aliphatic alcohol under agitation be added to be preheated in about 80 ℃ water and surfactant mixtures.Keep this temperature about 30 minutes, and then mixture was cooled to about 30 ℃.Then with the above-mentioned concentrate of aequum in room temperature, borrow the help of turbo mixer, be added in the shampoo basic components.