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CN111868317A - Multi-length, multi-denier, multi-section fiber blended yarn - Google Patents

Multi-length, multi-denier, multi-section fiber blended yarn Download PDF

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CN111868317A
CN111868317A CN201980019410.1A CN201980019410A CN111868317A CN 111868317 A CN111868317 A CN 111868317A CN 201980019410 A CN201980019410 A CN 201980019410A CN 111868317 A CN111868317 A CN 111868317A
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fibers
inches
staple
polyester
dpf
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小R·A·亚瑟
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Parkdale Inc
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    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/22Yarns or threads characterised by constructional features, e.g. blending, filament/fibre
    • D02G3/24Bulked yarns or threads, e.g. formed from staple fibre components with different relaxation characteristics
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D01NATURAL OR MAN-MADE THREADS OR FIBRES; SPINNING
    • D01GPRELIMINARY TREATMENT OF FIBRES, e.g. FOR SPINNING
    • D01G1/00Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. stapling
    • D01G1/02Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. stapling to form staple fibres not delivered in strand form
    • D01G1/04Severing continuous filaments or long fibres, e.g. stapling to form staple fibres not delivered in strand form by cutting
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02GCRIMPING OR CURLING FIBRES, FILAMENTS, THREADS, OR YARNS; YARNS OR THREADS
    • D02G3/00Yarns or threads, e.g. fancy yarns; Processes or apparatus for the production thereof, not otherwise provided for
    • D02G3/02Yarns or threads characterised by the material or by the materials from which they are made
    • D02G3/04Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials
    • D02G3/045Blended or other yarns or threads containing components made from different materials all components being made from artificial or synthetic material
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D02YARNS; MECHANICAL FINISHING OF YARNS OR ROPES; WARPING OR BEAMING
    • D02JFINISHING OR DRESSING OF FILAMENTS, YARNS, THREADS, CORDS, ROPES OR THE LIKE
    • D02J3/00Modifying the surface
    • D02J3/02Modifying the surface by abrading, scraping, scuffing, cutting, or nicking
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2331/00Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products
    • D10B2331/04Fibres made from polymers obtained otherwise than by reactions only involving carbon-to-carbon unsaturated bonds, e.g. polycondensation products polyesters, e.g. polyethylene terephthalate [PET]
    • DTEXTILES; PAPER
    • D10INDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10BINDEXING SCHEME ASSOCIATED WITH SUBLASSES OF SECTION D, RELATING TO TEXTILES
    • D10B2401/00Physical properties
    • D10B2401/02Moisture-responsive characteristics

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  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Textile Engineering (AREA)
  • Mechanical Engineering (AREA)
  • Yarns And Mechanical Finishing Of Yarns Or Ropes (AREA)
  • Treatment Of Fiber Materials (AREA)
  • Artificial Filaments (AREA)

Abstract

披露了一种由以下三个参数定制的聚酯纤维的共混物形成的纱线:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。

Figure 201980019410

A yarn formed from a blend of polyester fibers customized with the following three parameters is disclosed: (1) a combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches and 0.75 inches; (2) a combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf and 1.5 dpf; and (3) a combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross sections.

Figure 201980019410

Description

多长度、多旦数、多截面纤维混纺纱Multi-length, multi-denier, multi-section fiber blended yarn

背景技术Background technique

本发明涉及工业服(technical wear)、运动服或“运动休闲”服领域中的纤维、纱线和织物。The present invention relates to fibers, yarns and fabrics in the field of technical wear, sportswear or "athleisure" clothing.

运动服和休闲服专用服装的市场近年来显著增长。这进而已经导致了用于此类最终用途的专用织物的开发,以及对于开发所述专用织物的进一步的希望。如纺织技术人员充分理解的,服装的性能基于裁剪和缝制所述服装的织物,其中所述织物反过来反映了织造或针织所述织物的纱线的特性,以及反映形成所述纱线的短纤维的纱线的特性。The market for sportswear and casual apparel has grown significantly in recent years. This, in turn, has led to the development of specialized fabrics for such end-uses, and further hopes for the development of such specialized fabrics. As is well understood by those skilled in the textile industry, the properties of a garment are based on the fabric from which the garment is cut and sewn, wherein the fabric in turn reflects the properties of the yarns from which the fabric is woven or knitted, as well as the properties of the yarns that form the yarns. Properties of short-fiber yarns.

因此,自从20世纪早期开始对聚合物的开发和理解以来,纺织品化学家已寻求模仿天然纤维(棉、羊毛、亚麻)的最佳特性以及根据特定的最终用途调整纤维特性。Thus, since the beginning of the development and understanding of polymers in the early 20th century, textile chemists have sought to mimic the best properties of natural fibers (cotton, wool, linen) and to tailor fiber properties to specific end uses.

棉在许多情况下是非常舒适的纤维,并且棉服装基于其轻的重量、多功能性和良好的手感(hand)而仍然是无处不在。术语“手感”在整个本申请中以技术人员充分理解的意义使用。所述术语可以定义为“通过触摸、挤压或摩擦织物而感知到的织物特征”(Tortora,第262页),或定义为“用于描述对基材的感觉(即,柔软、粗糙、硬等)的术语”(TextileGlossary[纺织品术语表];Cotton Incorporated[棉花公司];www.cottoninc.com;于2018年3月15日访问。Cotton is a very comfortable fiber in many situations, and cotton garments are still ubiquitous based on their light weight, versatility and good hand. The term "hand" is used throughout this application in a sense well understood by the skilled artisan. The term can be defined as “a fabric characteristic perceived by touching, squeezing or rubbing the fabric” (Tortora, p. 262), or as “used to describe the feel of a substrate (i.e., soft, rough, hard etc.)” (TextileGlossary [textile glossary]; Cotton Incorporated [cotton company]; www.cottoninc.com ; accessed March 15, 2018.

虽然如此,并且特别是关于运动服或健身衣,棉具有某些缺点。棉具有很高的吸收性,在水中吸收至最高达其重量的27倍,这在运动服情况下增加不希望的重量。棉在潮湿时还损失其隔热特性并且可能是粗糙的(abrasive)。因此,在寒冷的天气、主动运动(或工作等)中,紧挨着皮肤的棉层很快变得潮湿、重和凉。在炎热和寒冷的天气下,在潮湿时棉质内衣变得粗糙。Nonetheless, and especially with regard to sports or gym wear, cotton has certain disadvantages. Cotton is highly absorbent, absorbing up to 27 times its weight in water, which adds undesired weight in the case of sportswear. Cotton also loses its insulating properties when wet and can be abrasive. Therefore, in cold weather, active exercise (or work, etc.), the cotton layer next to the skin quickly becomes wet, heavy and cool. In hot and cold weather, cotton underwear becomes rough when wet.

羊毛具有优异的隔热特性,可以拉伸超过其松弛长度多达30%,并且可以吸收最高达其干重的50%的水分而不会变得饱和,Tortora,Fairchild’s Dictionary OfTextiles[仙童纺织词典],第七版(2009),第634页。然而,一些类型的羊毛紧挨着皮肤不舒适,并且更舒适的纤维(例如美利奴羊毛)往往更昂贵。丝绸当然是非常舒适的,但是对于在大批量被销售的运动服装中广泛使用而言通常太昂贵。Wool has excellent insulating properties, can stretch up to 30% beyond its relaxed length, and can absorb up to 50% of its dry weight without becoming saturated, Tortora, Fairchild's Dictionary OfTextiles ], Seventh Edition (2009), p. 634. However, some types of wool are uncomfortable next to the skin, and more comfortable fibers, such as merino wool, tend to be more expensive. Silk is of course very comfortable, but is generally too expensive for widespread use in athletic apparel that is sold in large quantities.

因此,已经付出了很多努力(并且取得了一些成功)来由合成纤维或合成纤维与天然纤维的共混物(例如,涤纶和羊毛,棉和聚酯等)开发基于合成物的织物。此外,已作了进一步的努力来开发完全合成的服装,所述服装模仿棉的舒适手感,同时提供比标准棉或普通棉-合成物共混物更好的水分管理。Accordingly, much effort (and some success) has been devoted to developing synthetic-based fabrics from synthetic fibers or blends of synthetic and natural fibers (eg, polyester and wool, cotton and polyester, etc.). In addition, further efforts have been made to develop fully synthetic garments that mimic the comfortable feel of cotton while providing better moisture management than standard cotton or regular cotton-composite blends.

术语水分管理用于描述织物将水分(汗、湿气、雨水)拉或芯吸到水分可从其蒸发的织物的外层的容量或能力。在许多情况下,体温(98.6°F,37°)可以帮助驱动织物服装中的芯吸,特别是考虑到熵通常将有利于蒸气(即,更无规)状态。因此,典型地使用水蒸气透过率来测量水分管理。The term moisture management is used to describe the capacity or ability of a fabric to pull or wick moisture (sweat, moisture, rain) to the outer layer of the fabric from which it can evaporate. In many cases, body temperature (98.6°F, 37°) can help drive wicking in fabric garments, especially given that entropy will generally favor the vapor (ie, more random) state. Therefore, moisture management is typically measured using water vapor transmission rate.

然而,合成物并不是自动的万能药(automatic cure-all),因为过冷可能给予穿用者湿冷的感觉。因此,现代的“工业”服通常由形成为几层的两种类型的纱线组成,这些层布置为使得热力学将汗从皮肤驱逐到第一层并且然后从第一层驱逐到外层。为此目的,现代的工业用织物可具有多达四或五层。However, the composition is not an automatic cure-all, as excessive cold may impart a clammy feeling to the wearer. Therefore, modern "industrial" garments usually consist of two types of yarns formed into several layers arranged such that the thermodynamics expel sweat from the skin to the first layer and then from the first layer to the outer layer. Modern industrial fabrics can have up to four or five layers for this purpose.

此外,因为起始纤维有助于建立所得织物的特性,所以技术人员认识到,关于(例如)棉,较短的纤维产生进而给予织物更好的手感的纱线,而较长的纤维给予更平滑的更加精致的纱线,例如给予棉质商务衬衫(再次,仅作为一个实例)更加精致的外观,但更粗糙的手感的那些纱线。Furthermore, because the starting fibers help to establish the properties of the resulting fabric, the skilled artisan recognizes that, with regard to, for example, cotton, shorter fibers produce yarns that in turn give the fabric a better hand, while longer fibers give more Smoother, more refined yarns, such as those that give a cotton business shirt (again, just as an example) a more refined look, but a rougher hand.

纺制技术(环锭对比自由端)同样在成品服装的外观和手感上产生差异。Spinning technology (ring versus free end) also makes a difference in the look and feel of the finished garment.

因此,目标仍然是设计产生所需的手感和水分管理组合的专用纱线。Therefore, the goal remains to design specialized yarns that produce the desired combination of hand and moisture management.

发明内容SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

在一个实施例中,本发明是一种纱线,所述纱线基本上由以下三个参数定制的(customized)聚酯纤维的共混物组成:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。In one embodiment, the present invention is a yarn consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers customized with the following three parameters: (1) staple fiber length of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches inch, 1.0 inch, and 0.75 inch polyester staple fibers; (2) a combination of polyester staple fibers having a staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and ( 3) A combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种聚酯短纤维的紧密共混的包,其中所述共混物包括(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的短纤维的组合。In another embodiment, the present invention is an intimately blended package of polyester staple fibers, wherein the blend includes (1) staple fibers having lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches Combinations of fibers; (2) combinations of staple fibers having a staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3) staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections The combination.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种织物,所述织物至少包括基本上由以下组成的一些纱线:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合,(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。In another embodiment, the present invention is a fabric comprising at least some yarns consisting essentially of (1) polyester with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches Combinations of staple fibers, (2) combinations of polyester staple fibers having staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3) having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections combination of polyester staple fibers.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种根据选自由以下组成的组的所得织物:织造织物、非织造织物和针织织物。In another embodiment, the present invention is a resulting fabric according to a fabric selected from the group consisting of: woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种制造具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线前体共混物的方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:以至少三个不同的旦数和至少两种不同的截面中的每一个纺制连续的合成长丝,将这些不同的连续长丝聚集成单一丝束,使用普通切刀将所述丝束切成至少四个不同的短纤维长度,以及将这些不同长度、不同旦数和不同截面的短纤维共混成紧密共混的包。In another embodiment, the present invention is a method of making a yarn precursor blend having selected moisture management and hand properties, the method comprising the steps of: at least three different deniers and at least spinning continuous synthetic filaments from each of the two different cross-sections, gathering these different continuous filaments into a single tow, and cutting the tow into at least four different staple fiber lengths using a common cutter, As well as blending these different lengths, different deniers and different cross-sections of staple fibers into tightly blended packages.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种制造纱线前体共混物的方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:将这些连续的合成长丝纺成1.0dpf、1.2dpf和1.5dpf的短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度),以及使用所述普通切刀将所述丝束切成1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维长度。In another embodiment, the present invention is a method of making a yarn precursor blend comprising the steps of spinning these continuous synthetic filaments into staple fibers of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf and 1.5 dpf denier (tex, fineness), and the tow was cut into staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches using the common cutter.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种制造具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线的方法,所述方法包括以下步骤:开松至少三个不同的旦数、至少四个不同的长度和至少两种不同的截面的短纤维的紧密共混的包,并将经开松的短纤维形成丝束,将所述丝束形成粗纱;以及将所述粗纱纺成纱线。In another embodiment, the present invention is a method of making a yarn having selected moisture management and hand characteristics, the method comprising the steps of opening at least three different deniers, at least four different an intimately blended package of staple fibers of length and at least two different cross-sections and forming the opened staple fibers into a tow, forming the tow into a roving; and spinning the roving into a yarn.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种制造纱线的方法,所述方法包括开松基本上由以下组成的紧密共混的包:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。In another embodiment, the present invention is a method of making a yarn comprising opening an intimately blended package consisting essentially of: (1) staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches inch and 0.75 inch polyester staple fibers; (2) combinations of polyester staple fibers having a staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3) having A combination of at least two polyester staple fibers of different staple fiber cross-sections.

在另一个实施例中,本发明是一种用于与短纤维切割设备一起使用的卷筒组件,所述卷筒组件包括:切刀卷筒,其具有一对彼此轴向地间隔开的环形卷筒构件,其中每个卷筒构件限定具有预定直径的面向外的轴向表面和圆周配合接合部分;多个切刀刀片,其安装在所述卷筒构件中用于接合和切割纤维;以及盖构件,其环绕所述卷筒构件之一并且围绕所述卷筒构件之一固定;其中改进包括将切刀刀片间隔开以将合成长丝切成1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的离散短纤维长度。In another embodiment, the present invention is a spool assembly for use with staple fiber cutting equipment, the spool assembly comprising: a cutter spool having a pair of annular rings axially spaced apart from each other spool members, wherein each spool member defines an outwardly facing axial surface having a predetermined diameter and a circumferential mating engagement portion; a plurality of cutter blades mounted in the spool member for engaging and cutting fibers; and a cover member that surrounds and is secured around one of the spool members; wherein the improvement includes spacing the cutter blades to cut synthetic filaments into 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches of discrete staple fiber lengths.

基于以下结合附图的详细描述,本发明的前述和其他目的和优点以及实现其的方式将变得更加清楚。The foregoing and other objects and advantages of the present invention and the manner in which they are achieved will become more apparent from the following detailed description taken in conjunction with the accompanying drawings.

附图说明Description of drawings

图1是根据本发明的具有椭圆形(卵形)截面的纤维的显微照片。Figure 1 is a photomicrograph of a fiber having an elliptical (oval) cross-section according to the present invention.

图2是基于根据本发明的纱线的一个样品的纤维长度柱状图。Figure 2 is a bar graph of fiber length for a sample based on yarns according to the present invention.

图3是基于与图2相同的样品的第二纤维长度柱状图。FIG. 3 is a second fiber length histogram based on the same sample as FIG. 2 .

图4是基于与图2和图3相同的样品的细度(旦尼尔,特克斯)柱状图。FIG. 4 is a bar graph of fineness (denier, tex) based on the same samples as in FIGS. 2 and 3 .

图5是基于根据本发明的纱线的第二样品的纤维长度柱状图。Figure 5 is a histogram of fiber length for a second sample based on a yarn according to the present invention.

图6是基于与图5相同的第二样品的第二纤维长度柱状图。FIG. 6 is a second fiber length histogram based on the same second sample as FIG. 5 .

图7是基于与图5和图6相同的样品的细度(旦尼尔,特克斯)柱状图。FIG. 7 is a bar graph of fineness (denier, tex) based on the same samples as in FIGS. 5 and 6 .

图8是可用于实施本发明的方面的组装的切刀卷筒和分解的切刀卷筒的组合视图。8 is a combined view of an assembled cutter reel and an exploded cutter reel that may be used to practice aspects of the present invention.

具体实施方式Detailed ways

如本文所用,术语聚酯是指通过将烃链与酯基连接而形成的任何聚合物(Tortora,第437页)。美国联邦贸易委员会(US Federal Trade Commission)将聚酯定义为:“[A]制造的纤维,其中形成纤维的物质是任何长链合成聚合物,所述长链合成聚合物由至少85重量%的取代的芳香族羧酸的酯构成,包括但不限于取代对苯二甲酸酯单元。”16C.F.R.§303.7(c)(2018)。As used herein, the term polyester refers to any polymer formed by linking hydrocarbon chains to ester groups (Totora, p. 437). The US Federal Trade Commission defines polyester as: "[A] fibers manufactured in which the fiber-forming substance is any long-chain synthetic polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of Ester formations of substituted aromatic carboxylic acids, including but not limited to substituted terephthalate units." 16 C.F.R. §303.7(c) (2018).

包密度:每单位体积重量的度量单位,通常表示为磅/立方英尺。密度通过将净包重量除以包体积(以立方英尺计)来计算。体积是通过将包长度、宽度和厚度尺寸(以英寸表示)相乘确定的。厚度是通过跨越包的顶部从绳到绳测量确定的。Pack Density: A measure of weight per unit volume, usually expressed as pounds per cubic foot. Density is calculated by dividing net bale weight by bale volume (in cubic feet). Volume is determined by multiplying the bag length, width and thickness dimensions in inches. Thickness is determined by measuring from rope to rope across the top of the bag.

通用密度(UD):棉包密度为至少28磅/立方英尺。Universal Density (UD): The bale density is at least 28 pounds per cubic foot.

标准密度(SD):棉包密度为至少23磅/立方英尺,但小于28磅/立方英尺。Standard Density (SD): The bale density is at least 23 lbs/cubic foot, but less than 28 lbs/cubic foot.

Gin UD:包在gin压缩到至少28磅/立方英尺的密度。Gin UD: Pack in gin compressed to a density of at least 28 lbs/cubic foot.

(包必须用如第1.1和1.2节中定义的捆扎带或线捆扎)。(The bag must be strapped with strapping or wire as defined in Sections 1.1 and 1.2).

(包必须用如第1.1和1.2节中定义的捆扎带或线捆扎)。(The bag must be strapped with strapping or wire as defined in Sections 1.1 and 1.2).

Gin SD:包在gin压缩至至少23磅/立方英尺、但小于28磅/立方英尺的密度。Gin SD: Packs compressed at gin to a density of at least 23 lbs/cubic foot, but less than 28 lbs/cubic foot.

http://www.cotton.org/tech/bale/specs/definitions.cfm;于2018年2月17日http://www.cotton.org/tech/bale/specs/definitions.cfm; accessed February 17, 2018 访问access

来自美国国家棉业总会(National Cotton Council of America,古德利特农场公园路(Goodlett Farms Parkway)7193,科尔多瓦(Cordova),TN 38016)的术语表Glossary from the National Cotton Council of America (7193 Goodlett Farms Parkway, Cordova, TN 38016)

纺制:Spinning:

如在纺织工业中所用,术语“纺制”具有两种不同的含义。在几乎可以追溯到古代的传统含义上,“纺制”是指将纤维捻在一起以制造纱线的步骤。在现代技术中,这(典型地)是使用“环锭”纺制或“自由端”纺制进行的,每种技术都是本领域普通技术人员熟悉的;例如Tortora,Fairchilds Dictionary Of Textiles[仙童纺织词典],第七版(2009)第473和395页。As used in the textile industry, the term "spun" has two different meanings. In a traditional sense dating back almost to ancient times, "spinning" refers to the step of twisting fibers together to make yarn. In modern technology this is (typically) done using "ring" spinning or "open end" spinning, each technique familiar to those of ordinary skill in the art; eg Tortora, Fairchilds Dictionary Of Textiles [sen Children's Textile Dictionary], 7th edition (2009) pp. 473 and 395.

在另一种意义上,词语“纺制”用于是指以下步骤:将聚合物熔体挤出成单根长丝,然后对所述长丝进行进一步处理,典型地包括变形、切成“短纤维”长度并将聚合物短纤维在自由端或环锭纺制意义上纺成纱线。Tortora,第536页。In another sense, the word "spinning" is used to refer to the steps of extruding a polymer melt into individual filaments, which are then subjected to further processing, typically including texturing, cutting into "short" fiber" length and spinning polymer staple fibers into yarn in the free-end or ring spinning sense. Tortora, p. 536.

术语“开松”同样是技术人员充分理解的,并且通常表示将从压缩包中取出的短纤维分离成较松的簇并除去(必要时)较重杂质的预备步骤。Tortora,第395页。The term "opening" is likewise well understood by the skilled person and generally refers to the preliminary step of separating the short fibers taken from the compressed bales into looser clumps and removing (if necessary) heavier impurities. Tortora, p. 395.

如本文所用,术语聚酯是指通过将烃链与酯基连接而形成的任何聚合物(Tortora,第437页)。As used herein, the term polyester refers to any polymer formed by linking hydrocarbon chains to ester groups (Totora, p. 437).

在第一方面,本发明是一种纱线,所述纱线基本上由以下三个参数定制的聚酯纤维的共混物组成:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。In a first aspect, the present invention is a yarn consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers tailored to the following three parameters: (1) staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches and 0.75 inch polyester staple fibers; (2) combinations of polyester staple fibers having a staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3) having at least Combination of polyester staple fibers of two different staple fiber cross sections.

在示例性实施例中,所述纱线基本上由处于以下量的聚酯纤维的共混物组成:20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;其中所有长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。In an exemplary embodiment, the yarn consists essentially of a blend of polyester fibers in the following amounts: 20% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.5 inches or greater; 54% by weight short fibers Polyester fibers having a fiber length of 1.25 inches or greater; 77% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or greater; where all lengths and percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures.

在此类示例性实施例中,所述纱线包括94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。In such exemplary embodiments, the yarn comprises 94 wt% fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87 wt% fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76 wt% fibers having at least 150 mTex and 63% of fibers having at least 175 mTex; wherein all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures.

表1列出了根据本发明的示例性长度和dpf共混物。Table 1 lists exemplary length and dpf blends according to the present invention.

表1(图1)Table 1 (Figure 1)

Figure BDA0002682307670000061
Figure BDA0002682307670000061

如表1中所用,30's SIRO 100%意指30Ne纱线。(英制纱线支数;30×840yds=25,200码的此纱线重1磅)。将其在SIRO环锭纺纱机上纺制,其中2根粗纱筒管牵伸成1根纺纱筒管,并且此纱线以指示比例的100%聚酯纤维制成。As used in Table 1, 30's SIRO 100% means 30Ne yarn. (Imperial yarn count; 30 x 840 yds = 25,200 yards of this yarn weighs 1 lb). It was spun on a SIRO ring spinning machine with 2 roving bobbins drawn into 1 spinning bobbin and this yarn was made of 100% polyester in the indicated proportions.

40's CPRS 60/40意指40Ne纱线(英制纱线支数;40×840yds=33,600码的此纱线重1磅)。CP描述符意指精梳棉,因此此样品表示与40%根据本发明的聚酯共混的60%精梳棉。RS名称意指此纱线是在标准环锭精纺机上纺制的,其中1根粗纱筒管进给1个纺纱位。为了提出替代方案,该命名法将使用首字母缩写词OE,其代表自由端纺纱,也称为转杯纺纱。40's CPRS 60/40 means 40Ne yarn (imperial yarn count; 40 x 840 yds = 33,600 yards of this yarn weighs 1 pound). The CP descriptor means combed cotton, so this sample represents 60% combed cotton blended with 40% polyester according to the invention. The RS designation means that this yarn is spun on a standard ring spinning machine, where 1 roving bobbin feeds 1 spinning position. To suggest an alternative, the nomenclature will use the acronym OE, which stands for Open End Spinning, also known as Rotor Spinning.

以上的纱线支数基于长度/重量以及纱线的码/磅的标准。这是基于重量/长度的旦尼尔体系的倒数。The above yarn counts are based on length/weight and yard/pound standards of yarn. This is the inverse of the weight/length based denier system.

表2和表3中的数据是在根据本发明制成的并在

Figure BDA0002682307670000071
AFIS PRO 2纤维过程控制系统(乌斯特技术公司(Uster Technologies AG),Sonnenbergstrasse 10,8610乌斯特,瑞士;www.uster.comhttps://www.textilemates.com/siro-spinning-application;于2018年2月24日访问)上测试的纱线样品上收集的。列出的值定义如下:The data in Tables 2 and 3 were prepared in accordance with the present invention and in
Figure BDA0002682307670000071
AFIS PRO 2 Fiber Process Control System (Uster Technologies AG, Sonnenbergstrasse 10, 8610 Uster, Switzerland; www.uster.com ; https://www.textilemates.com/siro-spinning-application ; accessed 24 February 2018) on yarn samples tested. The listed values are defined as follows:

表2和表3;结果的数值输出Table 2 and Table 3; Numerical output of results

棉结(棉结被定义为缠结的纤维的小结,通常被认为是缺陷,但有时作为一种效果被引入。http://www.textileglossary.com/terms/nep.html;于2018年2月25日访问)。Neps (neps are defined as small knots of entangled fibers, often considered a defect, but sometimes introduced as an effect. http://www.textileglossary.com/terms/nep.html ; accessed February 2018 Accessed on 25 March).

总棉结计数:样品中所有棉结的计数(纤维和籽屑棉结)。Total Nep Count: The count of all neps (fiber and seed dust neps) in the sample.

总棉结平均尺寸:计数的所有棉结(纤维和籽屑棉结)的平均尺寸(以微米计)。Total Neps Average Size: The average size (in microns) of all neps (fiber and seed dust neps) counted.

纤维棉结计数:所有纤维棉结的计数。Fiber Neps Count: A count of all fiber neps.

纤维棉结平均尺寸:所有纤维棉结的平均尺寸(以微米计)。Fiber Neps Average Size: The average size (in microns) of all fiber neps.

SC棉结计数:所有籽屑棉结的计数。SC Nep Count: Count of all seed dust neps.

SC棉结平均尺寸:所有籽屑棉结的平均尺寸(以微米计)。SC Neps Average Size: The average size of all seed dust neps (in microns).

长度length

L(w)以样品中所有棉纤维的重量计的平均纤维长度。L(w) Average fiber length by weight of all cotton fibers in the sample.

L(w)CV%纤维长度围绕平均值的变化表示为The change in L(w)CV% fiber length around the mean is expressed as

按重量计的长度变化或CV%。CV以其充分理解的统计意义用于表示标准偏差与平均值的比率。Length change or CV% by weight. CV is used in its well-understood statistical significance to express the ratio of the standard deviation to the mean.

SFC(w)%棉样品中所有短于12.7mm(0.5英寸)的纤维的重量百分比。Weight percent of all fibers shorter than 12.7 mm (0.5 inches) in the SFC(w)% cotton sample.

UQL(w)%棉样品中所有纤维的25重量%超过的长度。UQL(w)% Length over which 25 wt% of all fibers in the cotton sample exceed.

L(n)按样品中所有棉纤维的数量计的平均纤维长度。L(n) Average fiber length by number of all cotton fibers in the sample.

纤维长度围绕平均值的变化表示为按数量计的长度变化或CV%。The change in fiber length around the mean is expressed as the change in length by number or CV%.

SFC(n)%棉样品中所有短于12.7mm(0.5英寸)的纤维的数量百分比。Number percent of all fibers shorter than 12.7 mm (0.5 inches) in the SFC(n)% cotton sample.

5%L(n)棉样品中所有纤维中较长的5%的长度。The length of the longer 5% of all fibers in a 5% L(n) cotton sample.

杂质(Trash)Impurities (Trash)

总杂质计数:所有颗粒(粉尘和杂质颗粒)的计数。Total Impurity Count: Count of all particles (dust and foreign particles).

总杂质尺寸:计数的所有颗粒(粉尘和杂质颗粒)的平均尺寸。Total trash size: The average size of all particles (dust and trash particles) counted.

粉尘计数:所有尺寸小于500微米的颗粒的计数。Dust Count: Count of all particles smaller than 500 microns in size.

粉尘平均尺寸:计数的所有粉尘颗粒的平均尺寸。Dust Average Size: The average size of all dust particles counted.

杂质计数:所有尺寸大于500微米的颗粒的计数。Impurity Count: Count of all particles larger than 500 microns in size.

杂质平均尺寸:计数的所有杂质颗粒的平均尺寸,VFM%:考虑粉尘和杂质的含量以及尺寸的计算;涉及重量杂质测量方法,例如雪莉分析仪(Shirley Analyzer)。Mean Impurity Size: Average size of all impurity particles counted, VFM %: Calculation taking into account the content and size of dust and impurities; involves gravimetric impurity measurement methods such as Shirley Analyzer.

统计学统计值:总体测量方案,结果中具有统计数据。 Statistics Statistics: Overall measurement scheme with statistics in the results.

:平均值(Mean/Average),标准偏差,变化系数CV%,99%置信范围,最小值,最大值。 Columns : Mean/Average, Standard Deviation, Coefficient of Variation CV%, 99% Confidence Range, Min, Max.

Figure BDA0002682307670000091
Figure BDA0002682307670000091

Figure BDA0002682307670000101
Figure BDA0002682307670000101

表2和表3中的一些数据作为柱状图示于图2-7中。图2-4对应于表2并且图5-7对应于表3。Some of the data in Tables 2 and 3 are shown in Figures 2-7 as bar graphs. Figures 2-4 correspond to Table 2 and Figures 5-7 correspond to Table 3.

图2是与纤维长度对比累积百分比的曲线图结合的按百分比计的纤维长度的柱状图,两个因子均按重量计表示。如统计列(tally column)进一步指示的,共混物的少于13%(表示为两个有效数字)具有大于1.5英寸的长度,并且只有约2.5%具有小于0.75英寸的长度。Figure 2 is a bar graph of fiber length in percent combined with a graph of fiber length versus cumulative percent, both factors expressed by weight. As further indicated by the tally column, less than 13% of the blends (expressed as two significant figures) had lengths greater than 1.5 inches, and only about 2.5% had lengths less than 0.75 inches.

图3是基于相同样品的第二个柱状图和曲线图,具有几乎相同的结果:小于14%是长度大于1.5英寸,并且只有约5.6%是长度小于0.75英寸。Figure 3 is a second histogram and graph based on the same sample, with nearly identical results: less than 14% are greater than 1.5 inches in length, and only about 5.6% are less than 0.75 inches in length.

图4是基于与图2和3相同的样品和选定的旦数(1、1.2、1.5)共混物的细度柱状图,表示为毫特克斯(即,111、133和167;全部表示至3个有效数字)。图4示出了80%的纤维(表示至两个有效数字)是在250与100毫特克斯之间(包括端值),并且67%(2/3)是在225与125毫特克斯之间(包括端值)。Figure 4 is a bar graph of fineness based on the same samples as Figures 2 and 3 and selected denier (1, 1.2, 1.5) blends, expressed in millitex (ie, 111, 133 and 167; all to 3 significant digits). Figure 4 shows that 80% of the fibers (expressed to two significant figures) are between 250 and 100 mTex (inclusive) and 67% (2/3) are between 225 and 125 mTex between (including endpoints).

图5是根据本发明的第二样品的与纤维长度对比累积百分比的曲线图结合的按百分比计的纤维长度的柱状图,两个因子均按重量计表示。如图5统计列进一步指示的,共混物的8.0%(表示为两个有效数字)具有大于1.5英寸的长度,并且只有约4.8%具有小于0.75英寸的长度。5 is a bar graph of fiber length in percent combined with a graph of fiber length versus cumulative percent for a second sample in accordance with the present invention, both factors expressed by weight. As further indicated in the statistical column of Figure 5, 8.0% of the blends (expressed as two significant figures) had lengths greater than 1.5 inches, and only about 4.8% had lengths less than 0.75 inches.

图6是基于相同样品的第二个柱状图和曲线图,具有几乎相同的结果:小于12%是长度大于1.5英寸,并且只有约4.0%是长度小于0.75英寸。Figure 6 is a second histogram and graph based on the same sample, with nearly identical results: less than 12% are greater than 1.5 inches in length, and only about 4.0% are less than 0.75 inches in length.

图7是基于与图5和6相同的第二样品和选定的旦数(1、1.2、1.5)共混物的细度柱状图,表示为毫特克斯(即,111、133和167;全部表示至3个有效数字)。图7示出了81%的纤维(表示至两个有效数字)是在250与100毫特克斯之间(包括端值),并且68%(稍大于2/3)是在225与125毫特克斯之间(包括端值)。Figure 7 is a bar graph of fineness based on the same second sample as Figures 5 and 6 and selected denier (1, 1.2, 1.5) blends, expressed in millitex (ie, 111, 133 and 167 ; all expressed to 3 significant figures). Figure 7 shows that 81% of the fibers (expressed to two significant figures) are between 250 and 100 mTex (inclusive), and 68% (slightly more than 2/3) are between 225 and 125 mTex tex between (inclusive).

方法method

在另一方面,本发明是一种形成具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线前体共混物的方法。在这方面,本发明包括以下步骤:以至少三个不同的旦数和至少两种不同的截面中的每一个纺制连续的合成长丝,将这些不同的连续长丝聚集成单一丝束,使用普通切刀将所述丝束切成至少四个不同的短纤维长度,以及将这些不同长度、不同旦数和不同截面的短纤维共混成紧密共混的包。特别地,所述方法包括将这些连续的合成长丝纺成1.0dpf、1.2dpf和1.5dpf的短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度);以及使用所述普通切刀将所述丝束切成1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维长度。In another aspect, the present invention is a method of forming a yarn precursor blend having selected moisture management and hand properties. In this regard, the present invention includes the steps of spinning continuous synthetic filaments at each of at least three different deniers and at least two different cross-sections, and gathering these different continuous filaments into a single tow, The tow is cut into at least four different staple fiber lengths using a common cutter, and these different lengths, different deniers, and different cross-sections of the staple fibers are blended into an intimately blended package. In particular, the method includes spinning these continuous synthetic filaments into staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf and 1.5 dpf; and cutting the tow using the common cutter Cut into staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches and 0.75 inches.

在示例性实施例中,长丝(并且然后纤维)截面是圆形和卵形的。相对于其他类似尺寸的圆形长丝或纤维,卵形(或椭圆形)截面提供了增加的表面积,并且因此为水分管理提供了额外的设计因子。In an exemplary embodiment, the filaments (and then fibers) are circular and oval in cross-section. The oval (or elliptical) cross-section provides increased surface area relative to other similarly sized round filaments or fibers, and thus provides an additional design factor for moisture management.

与从多个包(每个包具有单独的特征之一)并条(drawing)相比,普通的切刀允许从一个包中进给和开松。如本领域技术人员所知,将不同的纤维共混得越早(即,在纺制过程中越早;打包,开松,牵伸等),则特征(为其将纱线共混)将越一致。In contrast to drawing from multiple bales (each having one of its individual characteristics), common cutters allow feeding and opening from one bale. As is known to those skilled in the art, the earlier the different fibers are blended (ie, the earlier in the spinning process; baling, opening, drafting, etc.), the sooner the characteristics (for which the yarns are blended) will be. Consistent.

因此,在另一方面,本发明是一种聚酯短纤维的紧密共混的包,所述包包括短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维的组合;短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的短纤维的组合;以及具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的短纤维的组合。因此,这种类型的经开松的包和从此包纺成的纱线共享所述紧密共混的包的长度、旦数和截面特征。Thus, in another aspect, the present invention is an intimately blended package of polyester staple fibers comprising a combination of staple fibers having staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; the staple fibers Combinations of staple fibers having denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and combinations of staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections. Thus, this type of opened bale and the yarn spun from this bale share the length, denier and cross-sectional characteristics of the intimately blended bale.

所述紧密共混的包允许在单个包内进行调节,并且避免了从多个具有不同特征的包中仔细地计量纤维的必要性。结果是纱线并且因此所得的织物,对于重量基础,其是重量上更加一致和精确的,并且同样避免了其他共混方法的一些更麻烦的方面。The intimately blended package allows adjustment within a single package and avoids the need to carefully meter fibers from multiple packages with different characteristics. The result is the yarn, and thus the resulting fabric, that is more consistent and accurate in weight on a weight basis, and likewise avoids some of the more cumbersome aspects of other blending methods.

因此,在另一方面,本发明是一种织物,所述织物至少包括基本上由以下组成的一些纱线:(1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。Thus, in another aspect, the present invention is a fabric comprising at least some yarns consisting essentially of (1) polyester having staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches Combinations of staple fibers; (2) combinations of polyester staple fibers having staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3) having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections combination of polyester staple fibers.

此种织物可以选自由以下组成的组:织造织物、非织造织物和针织织物。Such fabrics may be selected from the group consisting of woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics and knitted fabrics.

示例性的织物实施例包括处于以下量的聚酯纤维的共混物:20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;其中所有长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。Exemplary fabric examples include a blend of polyester fibers in the following amounts: 20% by weight polyester fibers having a staple length of 1.5 inches or greater; 54% by weight staple fibers having a length of 1.25 inches or greater 77% by weight polyester fibers with a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96% by weight polyester fibers with a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or greater; all lengths and percentages are expressed to 2 significant digits.

此类示例性的织物还可以被描述为包括94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。Such exemplary fabrics can also be described as including 94 wt% fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87 wt% fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76 wt% fibers having at least 150 mTex and 63% of fibers having at least 175 mTex; wherein all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures.

在又另一方面,本发明是一种制造具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线的方法。在这个方面,所述方法包括以下步骤:开松至少三个不同的旦数、至少四个不同的长度和至少两种不同的截面的短纤维的紧密共混的包,并将经开松的短纤维形成丝束;将所述丝束形成粗纱;以及将所述粗纱纺成纱线。In yet another aspect, the present invention is a method of making a yarn having selected moisture management and hand characteristics. In this aspect, the method includes the steps of opening at least three different denier, at least four different lengths, and at least two different cross-sections of the closely blended package of staple fibers, and opening the opened The staple fibers are formed into tows; the tows are formed into rovings; and the rovings are spun into yarns.

所述紧密共混的包包括短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;短纤维旦数为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合;20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;其中所有旦数、长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。The intimately blended package includes a combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; polyester staple fibers with staple fiber deniers of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf a combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross-sections; 20 wt% polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.5 inches or greater; 54 wt% staple fibers having a length of 1.25 inches or greater 77% by weight polyester fibers with a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96% by weight polyester fibers with a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or greater; where all denier, length and percentage Both are expressed to 2 significant figures.

在这个方面,所述方法可以包括开松包,所述包包括94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。In this aspect, the method can include opening a package comprising 94 wt% fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87 wt% fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76 wt% fibers having at least 125 mTex Fibers of at least 150 mTex; and 63% of fibers having at least 175 mTex; wherein all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures.

组合线典型地用于梳理合成纤维和天然纤维的混合物。因为根据本发明的纤维共混物具有可变的切割长度,所述切割长度复制皮马棉纤维的累积纤维长度分布曲线(如在Uster AFIS(先进纤维信息系统(Advance Fiber Information System))上测试的),所以使用了带有组合线的梳理机来产生75谷(grain)/码纱条。Combination lines are typically used for carding a mixture of synthetic and natural fibers. Because the fiber blends according to the invention have variable cut lengths that replicate the cumulative fiber length distribution curve of Pima cotton fibers (as tested on Uster AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information System)) ), so a card with a combined thread was used to produce 75 grains/yd sliver.

当纤维在牵伸中仅稍微延伸时,存在高的纤维之间的内聚性导致纤维骤回(snapback)的趋势。为了生产出具有更好的均匀度值和更少的令人讨厌的细和粗的地方的纱线,应使合成纤维延伸经过彼此足够远,以将纤维之间的内聚力降低到消除骤回趋势的水平。There is a tendency for high fiber-to-fiber cohesion to result in fiber snapbacks when fibers are only slightly extended during drafting. In order to produce yarns with better uniformity values and fewer annoying fines and thicks, the synthetic fibers should be extended far enough from each other to reduce the cohesion between the fibers to eliminate the tendency to snap back s level.

当加工100%棉纤维时,并条筒子架(drawing creel)重量典型地较高(500谷或更高)并且并条牵伸通常低(5.0至5.5)(基于棉的低的纤维之间的内聚力)。然而,使用合成纤维的高筒子架谷重可能在钢辊与顶部皮辊(top cot)之间产生太多的体积,从而限制了纤维控制量并降低了品质。When processing 100% cotton fibers, the drawing creel weight is typically high (500 grains or more) and the draw frame draft is generally low (5.0 to 5.5) (between the low fiber based cotton cohesion). However, high creel weights using synthetic fibers can create too much volume between the steel rolls and the top cot, limiting the amount of fiber control and reducing quality.

为了管理纤维之间的内聚力,使用了两步并条工艺来组合不同的纱条,从而产生纤维的更均匀的共混。同时,使用中高的牵伸(6.3至6.9)将单根纤维进一步延伸经过彼此,这降低了纤维之间的内聚性。To manage cohesion between fibers, a two-step draw frame process is used to combine different slivers, resulting in a more uniform blend of fibers. At the same time, the use of medium to high drafts (6.3 to 6.9) extends the individual fibers further past each other, which reduces the cohesion between the fibers.

通过选择更细的1.3HR(亨克粗纱(hank roving)),粗纺中的牵伸向上移向中高范围(9.67),这进一步使纤维延伸经过彼此,并进一步控制了纤维之间的内聚力。By choosing a finer 1.3 HR (hank roving), the draft in the roving is shifted up to the mid-high range (9.67), which further extends the fibers past each other and further controls the cohesion between fibers.

更细的1.3HR降低了环锭纺制牵伸,这进而使环锭精纺机牵伸辊获得了对纤维的更好控制。在纺制合成纤维时,重要的是管理由高的纤维之间的内聚力以及不适当的总牵伸和牵伸分布而产生的辊颤(roll chatter)。高的解捻牵伸(1.4至1.53)导致纤维的滑动粘附牵伸。较低的解捻牵伸(1.20)消除了颤振效应,并产生了更好的纱线均匀度以及更少的瑕疵。The finer 1.3HR reduces the ring spinning draft, which in turn allows better fiber control for the ring spinning machine draft rolls. When spinning synthetic fibers, it is important to manage roll chatter resulting from high fiber-to-fiber cohesion and improper overall draft and draft distribution. High untwisting drafts (1.4 to 1.53) resulted in slip-stick drafts of the fibers. The lower untwisting draft (1.20) eliminates chatter effects and produces better yarn evenness and fewer defects.

在所有牵伸过程、头道并条、末道并条、粗纺和纺制中,基于最长5%长度(如在Uster AFIS(先进纤维信息系统)上测量的)来调整辊间距设置,以防止不想要的纤维损坏并且同时通过去除梳理中形成的钩子(hook)进一步延伸所述最长的纤维。每个过程也在Uster Evennes的测试仪上进行了评估(即CV)。调整了辊间距和解捻牵伸,以获得无粗或细的地方的质量图和无堆积(指示纤维漂浮)或机械故障的光谱图。表4列出了每个过程中的设置。In all drafting processes, first pass draw frame, last pass draw frame, roving and spinning, adjust the roll spacing setting based on the longest 5% length (as measured on Uster AFIS (Advanced Fiber Information System)) to Unwanted fiber damage is prevented and at the same time the longest fibers are further extended by removing hooks formed in carding. Each process was also evaluated on a Uster Evennes tester (i.e. CV). The roll spacing and untwist draft were adjusted to obtain a mass map with no coarse or fine spots and a spectrogram without build-up (indicating fiber floating) or mechanical failure. Table 4 lists the settings in each process.

表4Table 4

Figure BDA0002682307670000141
Figure BDA0002682307670000141

将短纤维引入成品纱的整个过程的其他描述可以在上述Tortora中或从Reiter公司(www.reiter.com/en/rikipedia)或棉花公司(www.cottoninc.com)找到。Additional descriptions of the overall process of introducing staple fibers into finished yarns can be found in Tortora above or from Reiter Corporation ( www.reiter.com/en/rikipedia ) or Cotton Corporation ( www.cottoninc.com ).

在另一方面,本发明是切刀卷筒的改进,其中所述改进包括将刀片间隔在将纤维在单个卷筒上切割成所需长度组合的位置。In another aspect, the present invention is an improvement on the cutter reel, wherein the improvement includes spacing the blades at positions to cut fibers into desired combinations of lengths on a single reel.

图8示出了组装的10和分解的11的切刀卷筒。所述切刀卷筒包括顶部分开的盖12、底部分开的盖13和刀片固定器(blade retainer)14。顶部销夹持器15和底部销夹持器16一起支撑多个刀片支撑销(support pin)17。刀片支撑销17上的狭槽20支撑刀片21,以在切刀卷筒旋转时切割丝束。使用驱动毂22以本领域普通技术人员充分理解的方式来驱动旋转。Figure 8 shows the cutter reel assembled 10 and disassembled 11. The cutter reel includes a top split cover 12 , a bottom split cover 13 and a blade retainer 14 . The top pin holder 15 and bottom pin holder 16 together support a plurality of blade support pins 17 . A slot 20 on the blade support pin 17 supports the blade 21 to cut the tow as the cutter drum rotates. Rotation is driven using the drive hub 22 in a manner well understood by those of ordinary skill in the art.

如所示,切刀卷筒基于美国专利号4497231(其内容通过引用整体并入本文)。As shown, the cutter reel is based on US Patent No. 4,497,231 (the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference in their entirety).

在附图和说明书中,已经阐明了本发明的优选实施例,并且尽管已经采用了特定术语,但是它们仅在一般和描述性意义上使用,而不是为了限制,本发明的范围在权利要求中定义。In the drawings and specification, preferred embodiments of the present invention have been illustrated, and although specific terms have been employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only and not for the purpose of limitation, the scope of the invention is in the claims definition.

Claims (20)

1.一种纱线,所述纱线基本上由以下三个参数定制的聚酯纤维的共混物组成:1. A yarn consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers tailored to the following three parameters: (1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(1) A combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; (2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(2) Combinations of polyester staple fibers having a staple fiber denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。(3) A combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross sections. 2.根据权利要求1所述的纱线,所述纱线包括一些具有圆形截面的短纤维和一些具有卵形截面的短纤维。2. The yarn of claim 1 comprising some staple fibers having a circular cross-section and some staple fibers having an oval cross-section. 3.一种纱线,所述纱线基本上由处于以下量的聚酯纤维的共混物组成:3. A yarn consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers in the following amounts: 20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;20% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.5 inches or more; 54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.25 inches or more; 77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及77% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;96% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or more; 其中所有长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all lengths and percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 4.一种纱线,所述纱线基本上由聚酯纤维的共混物组成,所述共混物包括:4. A yarn consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers, the blend comprising: 94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;94% by weight of fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;87% by weight of fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及76% by weight of fibers having at least 150 mTex; and 63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;63% of fibers with at least 175 mTex; 其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 5.一种聚酯短纤维的紧密共混的包,所述包包括:5. An intimately blended package of polyester staple fibers, the package comprising: (1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维的组合;(1) A combination of staple fibers with staple lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; (2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的短纤维的组合;以及(2) Combinations of staple fibers having short fiber denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的短纤维的组合。(3) A combination of short fibers having at least two different short fiber cross sections. 6.一种根据权利要求5所述的开松的包。6. An opened bag according to claim 5. 7.一种纱线,所述纱线由根据权利要求6所述的开松的包纺成。7. A yarn spun from the open bale of claim 6. 8.一种织物,所述织物至少包括基本上由以下组成的一些纱线:8. A fabric comprising at least some yarns consisting essentially of: (1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(1) A combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; (2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(2) Combinations of polyester staple fibers having a staple fiber denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。(3) A combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross sections. 9.根据权利要求8所述的织物,所述织物选自由以下组成的组:织造织物、非织造织物和针织织物。9. The fabric of claim 8 selected from the group consisting of woven fabrics, non-woven fabrics, and knitted fabrics. 10.根据权利要求8所述的织物,所述织物基本上由处于以下量的聚酯纤维的共混物组成:10. The fabric of claim 8 consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers in the following amounts: 20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;20% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.5 inches or more; 54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.25 inches or more; 77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及77% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;96% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or more; 其中所有长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all lengths and percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 11.根据权利要求8所述的织物,所述织物基本上由聚酯纤维的共混物组成,所述共混物包括:11. The fabric of claim 8 consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers comprising: 94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;94% by weight of fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;87% by weight of fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及76% by weight of fibers having at least 150 mTex; and 63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;63% of fibers with at least 175 mTex; 其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 12.一种制造具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线前体共混物的方法,所述方法包括:12. A method of making a yarn precursor blend having selected moisture management and hand properties, the method comprising: 以至少三个不同的旦数和至少两种不同的截面中的每一个纺制连续的合成长丝;spinning continuous synthetic filaments at each of at least three different deniers and at least two different cross sections; 将这些不同的连续长丝聚集成单一丝束;Gathering these different continuous filaments into a single tow; 使用普通切刀将所述丝束切成至少四个不同的短纤维长度;以及using a common cutter to cut the tow into at least four different staple fiber lengths; and 将这些不同长度、不同旦数和不同截面的短纤维共混成紧密共混的包。These staple fibers of different lengths, different deniers, and different cross-sections are blended into an intimately blended package. 13.根据权利要求12所述的制造纱线前体共混物的方法,所述方法包括13. The method of making a yarn precursor blend according to claim 12, the method comprising 将这些连续的合成长丝纺成1.0dpf、1.2dpf和1.5dpf的短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度);以及Spinning these continuous synthetic filaments into staple denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf and 1.5 dpf; and 使用所述普通切刀将所述丝束切成1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的短纤维长度。The tow was cut into staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches and 0.75 inches using the common cutter. 14.根据权利要求13所述的方法,其中,所述纺制步骤之前是至少一个牵伸步骤,所述牵伸步骤使所述纤维延伸经过彼此足够远以将纤维之间的内聚力降低至使所述纤维之间的骤回最小化的水平。14. The method of claim 13, wherein the spinning step is preceded by at least one drafting step that extends the fibers far enough past each other to reduce cohesion between the fibers to a The level at which snapbacks between the fibers are minimized. 15.根据权利要求12所述的方法,其中,所述开松步骤产生一些具有圆形截面的连续长丝和一些具有卵形截面的连续长丝。15. The method of claim 12, wherein the opening step produces some continuous filaments having a circular cross-section and some continuous filaments having an oval cross-section. 16.一种制造具有选定的水分管理和手感特性的纱线的方法,所述方法包括:16. A method of making a yarn having selected moisture management and hand properties, the method comprising: 开松至少三个不同的旦数、至少四个不同的长度和至少两种不同的截面的短纤维的紧密共混的包,并将经开松的短纤维形成丝束;opening an intimately blended package of staple fibers of at least three different deniers, at least four different lengths, and at least two different cross-sections, and forming the opened staple fibers into a tow; 将所述丝束形成粗纱;以及forming the tow into a roving; and 将所述粗纱纺成纱线。The roving is spun into yarn. 17.根据权利要求16所述的制造纱线的方法,所述方法包括开松基本上由以下组成的紧密共混的包:17. A method of making a yarn according to claim 16, said method comprising opening an intimately blended package consisting essentially of: (1)短纤维长度为1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的聚酯短纤维的组合;(1) A combination of polyester staple fibers with staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches; (2)短纤维旦数(特克斯,细度)为1.0dpf、1.2dpf、和1.5dpf的聚酯短纤维的组合;以及(2) Combinations of polyester staple fibers having a staple fiber denier (tex, fineness) of 1.0 dpf, 1.2 dpf, and 1.5 dpf; and (3)具有至少两种不同短纤维截面的聚酯短纤维的组合。(3) A combination of polyester staple fibers having at least two different staple fiber cross sections. 18.根据权利要求16所述的方法,所述方法包括开松基本上由处于以下量的聚酯纤维的共混物组成的包:18. The method of claim 16, comprising opening a package consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers in an amount of: 20重量%的短纤维长度为1.5英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;20% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.5 inches or more; 54重量%的短纤维长度为1.25英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;54% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1.25 inches or more; 77重量%的短纤维长度为1英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;以及77% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 1 inch or greater; and 96重量%的短纤维长度为0.75英寸或更大的聚酯纤维;96% by weight polyester fibers having a staple fiber length of 0.75 inches or more; 其中所有长度和百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all lengths and percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 19.根据权利要求16所述的方法,所述方法包括开松基本上由聚酯纤维的共混物组成的包,所述共混物包括:19. The method of claim 16, comprising opening a bag consisting essentially of a blend of polyester fibers, the blend comprising: 94重量%的具有至少100毫特克斯的纤维;94% by weight of fibers having at least 100 mTex; 87重量%的具有至少125毫特克斯的纤维;87% by weight of fibers having at least 125 mTex; 76重量%的具有至少150毫特克斯的纤维;以及76% by weight of fibers having at least 150 mTex; and 63%的具有至少175毫特克斯的纤维;63% of fibers with at least 175 mTex; 其中所有百分比均表示至2个有效数字。where all percentages are expressed to 2 significant figures. 20.一种用于与短纤维切割设备一起使用的卷筒组件,所述卷筒组件包括:20. A spool assembly for use with staple fiber cutting equipment, the spool assembly comprising: 切刀卷筒,其具有一对彼此轴向地间隔开的环形卷筒构件,其中每个卷筒构件限定具有预定直径的面向外的轴向表面和圆周配合接合部分;a cutter spool having a pair of annular spool members axially spaced apart from each other, wherein each spool member defines an outwardly facing axial surface having a predetermined diameter and a circumferential mating engagement portion; 多个切刀刀片,其安装在所述卷筒构件中用于接合和切割纤维;以及a plurality of cutter blades mounted in the spool member for engaging and cutting fibers; and 盖构件,其环绕所述卷筒构件之一并且围绕所述卷筒构件之一固定;a cover member surrounding one of the spool members and secured around one of the spool members; 改进包括将切刀刀片间隔开以将合成长丝切成1.5英寸、1.25英寸、1.0英寸和0.75英寸的离散短纤维长度。Improvements included spacing the cutter blades to cut the synthetic filaments into discrete staple fiber lengths of 1.5 inches, 1.25 inches, 1.0 inches, and 0.75 inches.
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