CN111501160A

CN111501160A - Production process of linen-wool interwoven fabric

Info

Publication number: CN111501160A
Application number: CN202010217601.3A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 胡振平
Original assignee: Jiaxing Shibo Textile Co ltd
Current assignee: Jiaxing Shibo Textile Co ltd
Priority date: 2020-03-25
Filing date: 2020-03-25
Publication date: 2020-08-07

Abstract

The invention discloses a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, which comprises the following steps: spinning linen yarns A, spinning wool-acrylic blended single yarns B, preparing wool-acrylic plied yarns C, dyeing wool-acrylic plied yarns D, preparing wool-acrylic plied yarns E, weaving fabrics F, singeing G, setting H, washing I, drying J and setting K. The invention relates to a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, wherein warps and wefts are linen yarns and wool-acrylic plied yarns according to the weight ratio of 2: 1 and the wool acrylic yarn used was a combination of black and white wool acrylic strands twisted together and organized using a combination of 1/1 and 3/3. And corresponding yarn dyeing, weaving and fabric post-treatment processes are combined, so that the fabric has the characteristics of flax compactness and inelasticity, and has the skin-sticking property of wool, namely the smooth and fine characteristic. So that the hemp fabric can meet the requirements of fabrics in autumn and winter.

Description

Production process of linen-wool interwoven fabric

Technical Field

The invention relates to the technical field of textile fabric production, in particular to a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric.

Background

The hemp products are widely applied to ready-made clothes in spring and summer due to the unique moisture absorption, sweat releasing and air permeability of the hemp products, and people are struggling to develop products meeting the requirements of four seasons by breaking through the season limitation of hemp fabrics. Through market research, the material favored by each brand in autumn and winter is wool fiber. The demonstration and analysis show that the development of the hemp wool product by adding the wool element into the hemp product has wide market prospect.

Along with the recovery of the ancient style, the knitted woolen cloth is widely used in various women's clothing brands and even men's clothing brands. The middle-high end brand can use wool material, and the low end brand can use acrylic fiber wool-like material. The soft hand feeling and the boneless feeling of the fabrics are limited by the characteristics of raw materials, and the plasticity of ready-made clothes is not facilitated. Therefore, a development idea of the autumn and winter hemp wool product mainly based on the style of the woven woolen cloth is established, and a product with different hand feeling and surface appearance from the traditional woven woolen cloth is developed.

The designed and developed linen-wool fabric is mainly characterized in that the moisture absorption and air permeability of the linen fiber and the elasticity and heat retention of the wool fiber are organically combined. How to develop a fabric which not only has the performances of smoothness, smoothness and warmth retention of wool, but also has the performances of toughness, roughness and air permeability of hemp, so that the product has higher appearance effect and taking performance, and becomes an urgent need.

Disclosure of Invention

The invention aims to provide a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, and the prepared fabric not only has the moisture absorption and air permeability of linen fibers, but also can keep the elasticity and the heat preservation performance of wool fibers.

In order to solve the technical problem, the invention aims to realize that:

the invention relates to a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, which comprises the following steps:

A. spinning linen yarns: preparing linen yarns with the fineness of 6 Nm;

B. spinning wool-acrylic blended single yarns: selecting wool and bulk acrylic staple fiber which is subjected to anti-pilling processing and finishing; spinning wool and bulk acrylic staple fiber into wool and acrylic blended single yarn according to the wool yarn process for the knitted sweater; the fineness of the wool-acrylic blended single yarn is 28Nm, the twist number is 400 twists/m, and the twist direction is Z twist;

C. preparation of wool nitrile yarn: twisting the two wool/nitrile blended single yarns into 28Nm/2 wool/nitrile plied yarns according to the twist of 225 twists/m; the twisting direction of the wool acrylic compound yarn is S twisting;

D. dyeing of wool nitrile yarn: dyeing the wool acrylic plied yarn in the same bath at the temperature of 30-35 ℃ by adopting a cone yarn dyeing mode, adding a cationic dye, adding a precipitation inhibitor and a deepening agent, adjusting the pH value of a dye solution to 4.5-5 by using acetic acid, heating to 75-80 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 15-20min, adding a neutral dye and thenardite, heating to 100 ℃ within 20-30min, keeping for 30-40min, cooling to 55-60 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 5-10min, and cooling to room temperature; fixing color and cleaning for 20-30min at 40-45 deg.C with anionic soaping agent, and washing with clear water; the used cationic dye and neutral dye are black;

E. preparation of wool-nitrile twisted yarn: twisting the undyed wool acrylic yarn and the dyed wool acrylic yarn into 28Nm/4 wool acrylic plied yarn by S twist at a twist of 120 twists/m;

F. weaving the fabric: warping linen yarns and wool acrylic plied yarns to a beam in a batch warping mode, wherein the linen yarns are warped without tension, and tension rings used by the wool acrylic plied yarns from top to bottom, from front to back during warping are 11.4g, 10.6g, 9.3g and 8.5 g;

G. singeing: the singeing flame temperature is 800-;

H. shaping: the setting temperature is 160-180 ℃, and the vehicle speed is 20-25 m/min;

I. washing with water: the washing temperature is 40-45 deg.C, and the washing time is 20-30 min;

J. drying: the drying temperature is 100-;

K. and (3) sizing: tentering to a set width by using a tenter, wherein the constant-width temperature is 100-115 ℃.

As a further explanation of the above scheme, in the step F, the warping speed of the linen yarn is 700 m/min, and the warping speed of the wool acrylic twisted yarn is 800 m/min; the fabric weave adopts 1/1, 3/3 connection weave.

As a further explanation of the scheme, the dosage of the cationic dye is 2-3% of the weight of the wool, the dosage of the neutral dye is 2-3% of the weight of the acrylic fiber, the dosage of the deepening agent is 9-15 g/L, the dosage of the leveling agent for the wool is 3-5 g/L, the dosage of the thenardite is 3-5 g/L, the dosage of the precipitation inhibitor is 1-2 g/L, and the dosage of the soaping agent is 5-6 g/L.

As a further illustration of the scheme, the deepening agent is a deepening agent TSF-3852 of Yuanming textile technology Co.

As a further explanation of the above scheme, in step F, the weight of the warp stop used for the wool acrylic plied yarn at the time of weaving is 120% to 150% of the weight of the warp stop used for the linen yarn.

The invention has the beneficial effects that: the invention relates to a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, wherein warps and wefts are linen yarns and wool-acrylic plied yarns according to the weight ratio of 2: 1 and the wool acrylic yarn used was a combination of black and white wool acrylic strands twisted together and organized using a combination of 1/1 and 3/3. And corresponding yarn dyeing, weaving and fabric post-treatment processes are combined, so that the fabric has the characteristics of flax compactness and inelasticity, and has the skin-sticking property of wool, namely the smooth and fine characteristic. So that the hemp fabric can meet the requirements of fabrics in autumn and winter.

Drawings

FIG. 1 is a weave diagram of a linen-wool interwoven fabric prepared by the invention.

The designations in the figures illustrate the following: 11-a first warp yarn; 12-a second warp yarn; 13-a third warp yarn; 14-a fourth warp yarn; 15-fifth warp yarns; 16-a sixth warp yarn; 21-a first weft yarn; 22-a second weft yarn; 23-a third weft yarn; 24-a fourth weft yarn; 25-fifth weft yarn; 26-sixth weft yarn.

Detailed Description

The invention is further described with reference to the following figures and specific examples.

Example one

The present invention will be described in detail with reference to fig. 1. The invention relates to a production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric, which comprises the following steps: spinning linen yarns A, spinning wool-acrylic blended single yarns B, preparing wool-acrylic plied yarns C, dyeing wool-acrylic plied yarns D, preparing wool-acrylic plied yarns E, weaving fabrics F, singeing G, setting H, washing I, drying J and setting K.

In the spinning of the linen yarn in the step A, the fineness of the prepared linen yarn is 6 Nm. The flax fiber has a spinnable count of 3.5-36 Nm. The design style of the fabric is considered to be thicker woven wool and the final product is expected to be as light as possible in wearing. The 6Nm full linen yarn is comprehensively considered and selected.

And B, in the spinning of the wool and acrylic blended single yarn in the step B, selecting wool and bulk acrylic staple fiber which is subjected to anti-pilling processing and finishing as raw materials for spinning the wool and acrylic blended single yarn. The wool and bulk acrylic staple fibers are spun into wool and acrylic blended single yarns according to the wool yarn process for the knitted sweater, so the single yarn spinning process is selected to be the wool spinning process for the knitted sweater, and the single yarns prepared by the process can be used for neutralizing the woven fabric with hard hand feeling, so that the produced fabric has soft hand feeling, and the fabric has better skin-attaching wearing performance. The fineness of the wool-acrylic blended single yarn is 28Nm, the twist number is 400 twists/m, and the twist direction is Z twist. The wool acrylic single yarn is blended yarn by 50 percent of wool and 50 percent of acrylic fiber.

In the step C, twisting two wool/nitrile blended single yarns into 28Nm/2 wool/nitrile plied yarns according to the twist of 225 twists/m; the twisting direction of the wool acrylic compound yarn is S twisting. The single yarn is Z-twisted, and the ply yarn is Z-twisted, so that the single yarn has a larger twist, the yarn is easy to self-twist, and the yarn strength is reduced.

In the step D, dyeing the wool acrylic compound yarn in the same bath by adopting a cone yarn dyeing mode at the temperature of 30-35 ℃, adding a cationic dye, adding a precipitation inhibitor and a deepening agent, adjusting the pH value of a dye solution to 4.5-5 by using acetic acid, heating to 75-80 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 15-20min, adding a neutral dye and thenardite, heating to 105 ℃ within 20-30min, keeping for 30-40min, cooling to 55-60 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 5-10min, and cooling to room temperature; fixing color and cleaning for 20-30min at 40-45 deg.C with anionic soaping agent, and washing with clear water; the cationic dye and the neutral dye used were both black.

The using amount of the cationic dye is 2-3% of the weight of the wool, the using amount of the neutral dye is 2-3% of the weight of the acrylic fiber, the using amount of the deepening agent is 9-15 g/L, the using amount of the leveling agent for the wool is 3-5 g/L, the using amount of the thenardite is 3-5 g/L, the using amount of the precipitation inhibitor is 1-2 g/L, the using amount of the soaping agent is 5-6 g/L, and the deepening agent is a deepening agent TSF-3852 of Yuanming textile science and technology Limited.

In step E wool acrylic plied yarn preparation, undyed wool acrylic strands and dyed wool acrylic strands were twisted with S twist at a twist of 120 twists/m to 28Nm/4 wool acrylic plied yarn. The undyed wool acrylic plied yarn is white, the dyed wool acrylic plied yarn is black, and the black and white yarn enables the fabric to have a unique style, so that the aesthetic feeling of the fabric is improved.

In the weaving of the fabric in the step F, the linen yarn and the wool acrylic plied yarn are warped to a beam in a batch warping mode, the linen yarn is warped without tension, and tension rings used from top to bottom, from front to back in the warping process of the wool acrylic plied yarn are 11.4g, 10.6g, 9.3g and 8.5 g; in the step F, the warping speed of the linen yarns is 700 m/min, and the warping speed of the wool acrylic plied yarns is 800 m/min; the fabric weave adopts 1/1, 3/3 connection weave. The weight of the warp stop yarn used by the wool acrylic plied yarn during weaving is 120-150%, preferably 150% of the weight of the warp stop yarn used by the linen yarn, and the test can improve the production efficiency by 30-35%. The warp stop sheet used for selecting the wool acrylic plying yarns is heavy, and the large weight can generate large tension on the wool acrylic plying yarns, so that the openings are clear during weaving, and the weaving is convenient. If the tension of the wool acrylic plied yarns is the same as that of the linen yarns, the linen yarns are easy to brittle fracture when the tension is high, so that broken ends are formed, and the weaving efficiency is influenced. If the tension is small, the wool acrylic twisted yarn is easy to loosen to cause unclear opening, thereby affecting the weaving efficiency. The use of different warp stop strips in the present invention provides different tensions to the yarns, resulting in clear openings and increased weaving efficiency.

The prepared linen-wool interwoven fabric is formed by interweaving warp yarns and weft yarns. The warp yarns include a first warp yarn 11, a second warp yarn 12, a third warp yarn 13, a fourth warp yarn 14, a fifth warp yarn 15 and a sixth warp yarn 16. The weft yarns include first weft yarn 21, second weft yarn 22, third weft yarn 23, fourth weft yarn 24, fifth weft yarn 25, and sixth weft yarn 26.

The weave of the interwoven fabric adopts 1/1 and 3/3 combined weave. The specific yarn interweaving rule is that, based on the weft yarn as a reference, the sinking and floating rule of the first warp yarn 11 is as follows: sink-float; the floating and sinking rule of the second warp yarns 12 is as follows: float-sink-float-sink; the floating and sinking rule of the third warp 13 is as follows: sinking-floating-sinking; the floating and sinking rule of the fourth warp yarn 14 is as follows: sink-float; the floating and sinking rule of the fifth warp yarn 15 is as follows: float-sink-float-sink; the floating and sinking rule of the sixth warp 16 is as follows: float-sink-float. In the invention, floating means that the warp yarn is positioned above the weft yarn and is a warp structure point; sinking means that the warp yarns are located below the weft yarns and are weft organization points.

The first warp yarn 11, the second warp yarn 12, the fourth warp yarn 14, the fifth warp yarn 15, the first weft yarn 21, the second weft yarn 22, the fourth weft yarn 24 and the fifth weft yarn 25 are all linen yarns. The third warp yarn 13, the sixth warp yarn 16, the third weft yarn 23, and the sixth weft yarn 26 are all wool acrylic plied yarns.

Singeing in step G: the singeing flame temperature is 800-.

In the step H, the setting temperature is 160-;

in the step I, the washing temperature is 40-45 ℃ and the washing time is 20-30 min;

in the step J, drying at the temperature of 100-115 ℃ until the water content is 40-50%;

in the step K of tentering, tentering is carried out to a set width by using a tenter, and the tentering temperature is 100-115 ℃.

Example two

The difference between the production process of the linen-wool interwoven fabric related to the embodiment and the embodiment I is that: in the step D, dyeing the wool acrylic compound yarn in the same bath by adopting a cone yarn dyeing mode at the temperature of 30-35 ℃, adding a cationic dye, adding a precipitation inhibitor and a deepening agent, adjusting the pH value of a dye solution to 4.5-5 by using acetic acid, heating to 75-80 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 15-20min, adding a neutral dye and thenardite, heating to 105 ℃ within 20-30min, keeping for 30-40min, cooling to 55-60 ℃ at the speed of 0.5-0.8 ℃/min, keeping for 5-10min, and cooling to room temperature; fixing color and cleaning for 20-30min at 40-45 deg.C with anionic soaping agent, and washing with clear water; the cationic dye and the neutral dye used were both black.

The cationic dye accounts for 2-3% of the weight of the wool, the neutral dye accounts for 2-3% of the weight of the acrylic fiber, the deepening agent accounts for 9-15 g/L, the leveling agent for the wool accounts for 3-5 g/L, the thenardite accounts for 3-5 g/L, the precipitation inhibitor accounts for 1-2 g/L, the soaping agent accounts for 5-6 g/L, and the deepening agent is TSF-3852 of Yuanming textile science and technology Limited.

Singeing in step G: the singeing flame temperature is 800-.

In the step H, the setting temperature is 160-;

Comparative example

The difference from the first embodiment is that no deepening agent is used in dyeing the wool acrylic yarn.

The tests were carried out on the bur interwoven fabrics prepared in examples one, two and comparative examples:

	example one	Example two	Comparison column
				K/S value	37.61	35.34	26.67
Depth increase rate	42.08％	33.51％
				Fastness to dry rubbing	4	4	3-4
Fastness to wet rubbing	4	4	3-4

As can be seen from the above table, the hemp and wool interwoven fabric prepared in the first and second embodiments has a deepening effect. And improves color fastness.

The foregoing detailed description of the preferred embodiments of the invention has been presented. It should be understood that numerous modifications and variations could be devised by those skilled in the art in light of the present teachings without departing from the inventive concepts. Therefore, the technical solutions available to those skilled in the art through logic analysis, reasoning and limited experiments based on the prior art according to the concept of the present invention should be within the scope of protection defined by the claims.

Claims

1. A production process of a linen-wool interwoven fabric is characterized by comprising the following steps:

A. spinning linen yarns: preparing linen yarns with the fineness of 6 Nm;

G. singeing: the singeing flame temperature is 800-;

J. drying: the drying temperature is 100-;

2. The process for producing a linnet interwoven fabric according to claim 1, wherein in the step F, the warping speed of the linen yarn is 700 m/min, and the warping speed of the wool acrylic plied yarn is 800 m/min; the fabric weave adopts 1/1, 3/3 connection weave.

3. The process for producing the linen-wool interwoven fabric according to claim 1, wherein the amount of the cationic dye is 2-3% of the weight of the wool, the amount of the neutral dye is 2-3% of the weight of the acrylic fiber, the amount of the deepening agent is 9-15 g/L, the amount of the leveling agent for the wool is 3-5 g/L, the amount of the thenardite is 3-5 g/L, the amount of the precipitation inhibitor is 1-2 g/L, and the amount of the soaping agent is 5-6 g/L.

4. The process for producing a linen-wool interwoven fabric according to claim 3, wherein the deepening agent is TSF-3852 from Yuanming textile technology, Inc.

5. The process for producing a linnet interwoven fabric according to claim 1, wherein in step F, the weight of the warp stop yarns used for the wool acrylic plied yarns during weaving is 120 to 150% of the weight of the warp stop yarns used for the linen yarns.