CN111329777A - 在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物及烫发方法 - Google Patents
在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物及烫发方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN111329777A CN111329777A CN202010227151.6A CN202010227151A CN111329777A CN 111329777 A CN111329777 A CN 111329777A CN 202010227151 A CN202010227151 A CN 202010227151A CN 111329777 A CN111329777 A CN 111329777A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物及烫发方法，所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物pH值范围为2.0‑6.9，烫发组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物可在40‑140℃的温度下，稳定增稠水相的聚合物，所述烫发组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂，所述烫发组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3，本发明的有益效果在于：本发明的通过加入大量聚合物和表面活性剂的方法，降低了半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸与双硫键的反应速率，并严格控制加热的温度和时间，实现了酸性的半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸在酸性条件下，稳定断开双硫键，同时不对头发造成过度伤害的效果。
Description
【技术领域】
本发明涉及一种化妆品领域，尤其涉及一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物及烫发方法。
【背景技术】
目前消费者对烫发剂的要求越来越高，常用的烫发剂主要成分是半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸，这两种成分只有在碱性的条件下pH值大于7，才能断开头发角蛋白中的双硫键，达到软化头发的作用，然后通过物理手段改变头发形状，如上卷杠，直板夹等，再通过双氧水、溴酸钠等氧化剂重新闭合断开的双硫键，使得头发发生永久变形，实现烫发的效果；
由于碱性物质在高pH会对头发造成伤害，严重影响发质的手感，所以多年来人们试图开发一种酸性的烫发水，比如采用硫代乳酸代替巯基乙酸，由于硫代乳酸可以在酸性条件下断开双硫键，从而可以避免因为pH值过高而伤害头发，但硫代乳酸对皮肤的刺激比半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸大很多，可以造成客户皮肤的红肿，因此始终无法替代半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸。
【发明内容】
本发明的目的在于解决由于碱性物质在高pH会对头发造成伤害，严重影响发质的手感，所以多年来人们试图开发一种酸性的烫发水，比如采用硫代乳酸代替巯基乙酸，由于硫代乳酸可以在酸性条件下断开双硫键，从而可以避免因为pH 值过高而伤害头发，但硫代乳酸对皮肤的刺激比半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸大很多，可以造成客户皮肤的红肿，因此始终无法替代半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸的不足而提供的一种新型的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物及其烫发方法。
本发明是通过以下技术方案来实现的：
在一个方面，本发明提供了一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物pH值范围为2.0- 6.9。
进一步地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物是可在40℃-140℃的温度范围下稳定增稠水相的聚合物。
进一步地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂。
进一步地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3。
进一步地，所述聚合物为淀粉、阿拉伯胶、果胶、海藻胶、角叉胶、糊精、卡波姆、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素、聚乙二醇、聚丙烯酰胺、羧甲基纤维素、丙二醇藻蛋白酸酯、甲基纤维素、淀粉磷酸钠、羧甲基纤维钠、藻蛋白酸钠、酪蛋白、聚丙烯酸钠、聚氧乙烯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中的任意一种。
进一步地，所述还原剂为半胱氨酸及其盐类、巯基乙酸及其盐类，所述还原剂的质量百分比为1％-15％中的任意值。
进一步地，所述表面活性剂为月桂基磺化琥珀酸单酯二钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(3)磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、椰油酸单乙醇酰胺磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、单月桂基磷酸酯、单十二烷基磷酸酯钾、月桂醇醚磷酸酯、月桂醇醚磷酸酯钾、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酸二乙醇酰胺、椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、月桂酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、椰油酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂醇(脂肪醇)硫酸钠、烷基(多)糖苷中的任意一种。
进一步地，所述表面活性剂的质量百分比为0.5％-20％中的任意值。
一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，所述烫发剂组合物直接涂抹与头发表面并加热，所述在烫发过程中进行加热处理，加热温度范围为40℃-140℃、加热时间为5到20分钟，然后使用定型剂，所述定型剂为双氧水、溴酸钠。
进一步地，所述加热方式包括用直板夹、烫发机中的至少一种对头发进行加热造型。
在另一方面，本发明还提供了一种利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，包括如下步骤：
S100：将酸性软发剂，涂抹在头发上进行软化头发，无需停留，直接上卷杠，对头发做出卷发的形状，并加热5到20分钟；
S200再上定型剂，对头发永久定型，其停留时间范围为5到15分钟。
进一步地，所述步骤S100中的所述软发剂为半胱氨酸或巯基乙酸。
本发明的有益效果在于：通常来说半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸，在加热的情况下，会和头发发生急剧反应，虽然能够断开双硫键，软化头发，但同时也会严重破坏头发的角蛋白，对头发造成过度伤害，使头发失去力度，造型无法长期维持，而本发明的通过加入大量聚合物和表面活性剂的方法，降低了半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸与双硫键的反应速率，并严格控制加热的温度和时间，实现了酸性的半胱氨酸和巯基乙酸在酸性条件下，稳定断开双硫键，同时不对头发造成过度伤害的效果。
【附图说明】
下面将结合附图及实施例对本发明作进一步说明，附图中：
图1是本发明较佳实施例提供的利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法的流程框图。
【具体实施方式】
下面结合具体实施方式对本发明做进一步描述：
实施例1:
一种永久酸性烫发剂组合物，所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物pH值范围为2.0。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物可在 40℃-140℃的温度范围下，稳定增稠水相的聚合物。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3。
优选地，所述聚合物为淀粉、阿拉伯胶、果胶、海藻胶、角叉胶、糊精、卡波姆、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素、聚乙二醇、聚丙烯酰胺、羧甲基纤维素、丙二醇藻蛋白酸酯、甲基纤维素、淀粉磷酸钠、羧甲基纤维钠、藻蛋白酸钠、酪蛋白、聚丙烯酸钠、聚氧乙烯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中的任意一种。
优选地，所述还原剂为半胱氨酸及其盐类、巯基乙酸及其盐类，所述还原剂的质量百分比为1％。
优选地，所述表面活性剂为月桂基磺化琥珀酸单酯二钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(3)磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、椰油酸单乙醇酰胺磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、单月桂基磷酸酯、单十二烷基磷酸酯钾、月桂醇醚磷酸酯、月桂醇醚磷酸酯钾、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酸二乙醇酰胺、椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、月桂酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、椰油酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂醇(脂肪醇)硫酸钠、烷基(多)糖苷中的任意一种。
优选地，所述表面活性剂的质量百分比为0.5％。
本发明的优选实施例还提供一种利用永久酸性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，所述烫发剂组合物直接涂抹与头发表面并加热，所述在烫发过程中进行加热处理，加热温度范围为40℃-140℃、加热时间为5到20分钟，然后使用定型剂，所述定型剂为双氧水、溴酸钠。
优选地，所述加热方式包括用直板夹、烫发机中的至少一种对头发进行加热造型。
进一步地，如图1所示，本发明的优选实施例提供的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，具体包括如下步骤：
S100：将酸性软发剂，涂抹在头发上进行软化头发，无需停留，直接上卷杠，对头发做出卷发的形状，并加热5到20分钟；
S200：再上定型剂，对头发永久定型，其停留时间范围为5-15分钟。
优选地，所述步骤(1)中的软发剂为半胱氨酸、巯基乙酸。
实施例2：
一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物pH值范围为4.5。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物可在 40-140℃的温度下，稳定增稠水相的聚合物。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3。
优选地，所述聚合物为淀粉、阿拉伯胶、果胶、海藻胶、角叉胶、糊精、卡波姆、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素、聚乙二醇、聚丙烯酰胺、羧甲基纤维素、丙二醇藻蛋白酸酯、甲基纤维素、淀粉磷酸钠、羧甲基纤维钠、藻蛋白酸钠、酪蛋白、聚丙烯酸钠、聚氧乙烯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中的任意一种。
优选地，所述还原剂为半胱氨酸及其盐类、巯基乙酸及其盐类，所述还原剂的质量百分比为12％。
优选地，所述表面活性剂为月桂基磺化琥珀酸单酯二钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(3)磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、椰油酸单乙醇酰胺磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、单月桂基磷酸酯、单十二烷基磷酸酯钾、月桂醇醚磷酸酯、月桂醇醚磷酸酯钾、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酸二乙醇酰胺、椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、月桂酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、椰油酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂醇(脂肪醇)硫酸钠、烷基(多)糖苷中的任意一种。
优选地，所述表面活性剂的质量百分比为15％。
本发明的优选实施例还提供了一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，所述烫发剂组合物直接涂抹与头发表面并加热，所述在烫发过程中进行加热处理，加热温度范围为40℃-140℃、加热时间范围为5到20分钟，然后使用定型剂，所述定型剂为双氧水、溴酸钠。
优选地，所述加热方式包括用直板夹、烫发机中的至少一种对头发进行加热造型。
进一步地，如图1所示，本发明优选实施例提供的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，具体包括如下步骤：
S100：将酸性软发剂，涂抹在头发上进行软化头发，无需停留，直接上卷杠，对头发做出卷发的形状，并加热5到20分钟；
S200：再上定型剂，对头发永久定型，其停留时间范围为5到15分钟。
优选地，所述步骤(1)中的软发剂为半胱氨酸、巯基乙酸。
实施例3：
一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物pH值范围为6.9。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物可在 40℃-140℃的温度下，稳定增稠水相的聚合物。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂。
优选地，所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3。
优选地，所述聚合物为淀粉、阿拉伯胶、果胶、海藻胶、角叉胶、糊精、卡波姆、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素、聚乙二醇、聚丙烯酰胺、羧甲基纤维素、丙二醇藻蛋白酸酯、甲基纤维素、淀粉磷酸钠、羧甲基纤维钠、藻蛋白酸钠、酪蛋白、聚丙烯酸钠、聚氧乙烯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中的任意一种。
优选地，所述还原剂为半胱氨酸及其盐类、巯基乙酸及其盐类，所述还原剂的质量百分比为15％。
优选地，所述表面活性剂为月桂基磺化琥珀酸单酯二钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚(3)磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、椰油酸单乙醇酰胺磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、单月桂基磷酸酯、单十二烷基磷酸酯钾、月桂醇醚磷酸酯、月桂醇醚磷酸酯钾、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酸二乙醇酰胺、椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、月桂酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、椰油酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂醇(脂肪醇)硫酸钠、烷基(多)糖苷中的任意一种。
优选地，所述表面活性剂的质量百分比为20％。
本发明优选实施例还提供了一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，所述烫发剂组合物直接涂抹与头发表面并加热，所述在烫发过程中进行加热处理，加热温度范围为40℃到140℃、加热时间为5到20分钟，然后使用定型剂，所述定型剂为双氧水、溴酸钠。
优选地，所述加热方式包括用直板夹、烫发机中的至少一种对头发进行加热造型。
进一步地，如图1所示，本发明优选实施例提供的一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，具体包括如下步骤：
S100：将酸性软发剂，涂抹在头发上进行软化头发，无需停留，直接上卷杠，对头发做出卷发的形状，并加热5到20分钟；
S200：再上定型剂，对头发永久定型，其停留时间范围为5-15分钟。
优选地，前述步骤S100中的软发剂为半胱氨酸、巯基乙酸。
根据上述说明书的揭示和教导，本发明所属领域的技术人员还可以对上述实施方式进行适当的变更和修改。因此，本发明并不局限于上面揭示和描述的具体实施方式，对本发明的一些修改和变更也应当落入本发明的权利要求的保护范围内。此外，尽管本说明书中使用了一些特定的术语，但这些术语只是为了方便说明，并不对本发明构成任何限制。
Claims (12)
1.一种在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述烫发剂组合物至少含有一种酸性组合物，所述酸性组合物的pH 值范围为2.0-6.9 。
2.根据权利要求1所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种聚合物，所述聚合物是可在40℃-140℃的温度范围下稳定增稠水相的聚合物。
3.根据权利要求1所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种可断开角蛋白中双硫键的还原剂。
4.根据权利要求1所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述烫发剂组合物还含有一种或多种表面活性剂，所述表面活性剂HLB值≥3。
5.根据权利要求2所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述聚合物为淀粉、阿拉伯胶、果胶、海藻胶、角叉胶、糊精、卡波姆、黄原胶、羟乙基纤维素、聚乙二醇、聚丙烯酰胺、羧甲基纤维素、丙二醇藻蛋白酸酯、甲基纤维素、淀粉磷酸钠、羧甲基纤维钠、藻蛋白酸钠、酪蛋白、聚丙烯酸钠、聚氧乙烯、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮中的任意一种。
6.根据权利要求3所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述还原剂为半胱氨酸及其盐类、巯基乙酸及其盐类，所述还原剂的质量百分比为1%-15%中的任意值。
7.根据权利要求3所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述表面活性剂为月桂基磺化琥珀酸单酯二钠、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚（3）磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、椰油酸单乙醇酰胺磺基琥珀酸单酯二钠、单月桂基磷酸酯、单十二烷基磷酸酯钾、月桂醇醚磷酸酯、月桂醇醚磷酸酯钾、脂肪醇聚氧乙烯醚硫酸铵、椰油酸二乙醇酰胺、椰油酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、月桂酰胺丙基二甲胺乙内酯、椰油酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂酰胺丙基羟磺基甜菜碱、月桂醇（脂肪醇）硫酸钠、烷基（多）糖苷中的任意一种。
8.根据权利要求3所述的在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物，其特征在于：所述表面活性剂的质量百分比为0.5%-20%之间的任意值。
9.一种利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，其特征在于：所述烫发剂组合物直接涂抹于头发表面并加热，所述在烫发过程中进行加热处理，加热温度范围为40-140℃、加热时间为5到20分钟，然后使用定型剂，所述定型剂为双氧水、溴酸钠。
10.根据权利要求9所述的利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，其特征在于：所述加热方式包括用直板夹、烫发机中的至少一种对头发进行加热造型。
11.根据权利要求9所述的利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，其特征在于，具体包括如下步骤：
S100将酸性软发剂，涂抹在头发上进行软化头发，无需停留，直接上卷杠，对头发做出卷发的形状，并加热5到20分钟；
S200：再上定型剂，对头发永久定型，其停留时间范围为5-15分钟。
12.根据权利要求11所述的利用在酸性条件下的永久性烫发剂组合物的烫发方法，其特征在于：所述步骤S100中的所述软发剂为半胱氨酸或巯基乙酸。
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| JPH06172141A (ja) * | 1992-12-07 | 1994-06-21 | Takara Belmont Co Ltd | パーマネント・ウェーブ剤及びパーマネント・ウェーブ調整方法 |
| US20080025938A1 (en) * | 2006-07-21 | 2008-01-31 | Thorsten Cassier | Method and composition for permanently shaping hair |
| US20080085251A1 (en) * | 2004-12-20 | 2008-04-10 | Akira Shibuya | Hair Processing Agent And Method For Permanent Waving Hair |
| CN103006466A (zh) * | 2012-12-21 | 2013-04-03 | 上海章华保健化妆品有限公司 | 定时烫发剂及其制备方法 |
| CN105326652A (zh) * | 2015-10-22 | 2016-02-17 | 李娜 | 一种包含纯半胱胺为还原剂的烫发剂组合物 |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| JPH06172141A (ja) * | 1992-12-07 | 1994-06-21 | Takara Belmont Co Ltd | パーマネント・ウェーブ剤及びパーマネント・ウェーブ調整方法 |
| US20080085251A1 (en) * | 2004-12-20 | 2008-04-10 | Akira Shibuya | Hair Processing Agent And Method For Permanent Waving Hair |
| US20080025938A1 (en) * | 2006-07-21 | 2008-01-31 | Thorsten Cassier | Method and composition for permanently shaping hair |
| CN103006466A (zh) * | 2012-12-21 | 2013-04-03 | 上海章华保健化妆品有限公司 | 定时烫发剂及其制备方法 |
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