Background
The silk mainly comprises silk fibroin and silk gelatin, wherein the silk gelatin is coated on the periphery of the silk fibroin, and accounts for about 20-30% of the mass of the silk fibroin, and the silk gelatin and the silk fibroin comprise 18 amino acids and contain about 97% of pure protein. The fiber obtained by silk finishing process belongs to a high-grade fabric raw material, and the chemical and physical properties of the fiber material directly influence the comfort and the handfeel of the fabric, the dyeing uniformity and other performances, so the functional treatment finishing of silk fiber is always a field of important attention in silk industry.
The sericin layer in silk is easy to swell, crack and hydrolyze protein fiber in weak acid and weak alkali water solution, and the silk swells and dries when contacting water, and has the problem of hardening. In the traditional silk dyeing and finishing process, sericin is usually removed, and only a soft and elastic silk fibroin part is utilized, so that sericin resource waste and environmental pollution are caused. Therefore, it is important to fix the sericin on the surface of the silk fibroin for retention.
In recent years, research, popularization and application of the sericin adhesion technology not only solve the problem to a certain extent, but also endow the silk with the functional characteristics of plumpness, thickness, stiffness, and the like. At present, the research on the sericin finishing agent at home and abroad mainly comprises types of chromium salt, small molecular aldehyde, tannic acid, synthetic resin, active chlorine-containing s-triazine compounds, epoxy compounds and the like, and the sericin finishing agent has various varieties, but has advantages and disadvantages to a certain extent due to different performances.
The chromium salt gel curing effect is excellent, but the chromium salt gel curing effect has color, trivalent chromium salt is easily oxidized into hexavalent chromium salt with carcinogenicity under the conditions of high temperature and high pH value, and the trivalent chromium salt is hardly used for gel curing treatment.
Formaldehyde is the traditional method in the early development stage of the solid glue, has good effect, is extremely volatile, has carcinogenicity and is unfavorable for human health, and along with the requirements of ecological environment-friendly silk fabrics, formaldehyde gradually exits from the application process of the solid glue. Glutaraldehyde, although having good gum fixing effect (good protein crosslinking effect), is easy to yellow, is unfavorable for processing white and light silk, can only be used for gum fixing treatment of dark silk products, and greatly limits the application range of glutaraldehyde gum fixing.
Tannic acid lacks a certain amount of firm covalent bonding mode for silk protein chemical crosslinking, the crosslinking and glue fixing effects are weak, the tannic acid has darker color, silk is dyed with the tannic acid, the staining performance of the silk is greatly affected, and the method is rarely adopted.
Zhou Hongxiang et al report that three epoxy compounds are used for silk sericin adhesion finishing, but the three compounds are used in silk finishing process, a catalyst KSCN (toxic substance) needs to be added, the three substances are required to be subjected to glue fixing in an organic solvent such as isopropanol, and unreacted epoxide on silk needs to be washed by a solvent such as acetone after treatment, and the method is limited to laboratory theoretical research.
The treatment process fixes the sericin, but has limited alkali resistance improvement and does not meet the formaldehyde content standard requirement, and the low-temperature silk reeling and low-temperature dyeing and finishing processes try to retain the sericin, but the essential problems are not solved, the product is troublesome to use and maintain, and the application range is limited.
Disclosure of Invention
The invention aims to provide a silk glue-retaining process and high-sericin silk, which ensure that most sericin is reserved after silk cocoons or raw silk white blanks are treated, the sericin is not easy to lose in the subsequent process, meanwhile, the soft hand feeling of the sericin is ensured, the silk utilization rate and dyeing uniformity are improved, the environmental pollution is reduced, and the style and the application range of silk fabrics are expanded.
Technical proposal
In a first aspect, the application provides a silk glue-retaining process:
a silk glue-retaining process comprises the following preparation steps:
Immersing raw silk white blank into a treatment liquid, reacting for 1-2 hours at a water bath of 90-100 ℃ to fully fix sericin, and then sequentially washing, degumming and rinsing to obtain high sericin silk, wherein the treatment liquid comprises 1-5wt% of aqueous acrylic resin, 0.5-3wt% of guanidine salt, 5-10wt% of silane modified polyurethane and the balance of water.
Further, the treatment fluid comprises 2-5wt% of aqueous acrylic resin, 0.5-3wt% of guanidine salt, 5-8wt% of silane modified polyurethane and the balance of water.
Further, the treatment fluid comprises 2-4wt% of aqueous acrylic resin, 1-2wt% of guanidine salt, 5-8wt% of silane modified polyurethane and the balance of water.
Further, the bath ratio of the raw silk blank immersed in the treatment liquid is 1 (10-30).
Further, the aqueous acrylic resin comprises one or more of a hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer, a hydroxypropyl acrylate copolymer and a polyethylene glycol modified hydroxyethyl acrylate copolymer.
Further, the aqueous acrylic resin is styrene-acrylic emulsion aqueous acrylic resin.
Further, the silane modified polyurethane comprises one of SX3430E, SX6735D, S888E, GENIOSIL STP-E15 and STP-E35 of AGC, SPUR+ 1015, SPUR+ 3030 and SPUR+ 3040 of Michaelis corporation.
Further, the guanidine salt comprises one or a combination of a plurality of guanidine hydrochloride, guanidine nitrate, guanidine carbonate and guanidine nitrate.
Further, the degumming process is as follows:
And (3) placing the washed and dried raw silk white blank in a 0.2% sodium carbonate solution, boiling for 30-60 min at 95 ℃ and a bath ratio of 1 (50-100).
And further, the rinsing process is to place the degummed raw silk white blank into 100 ℃ boiling water to be boiled for 10-30 min.
In a second aspect, the present application provides a high sericin silk:
the high sericin silk is prepared by adopting the silk glue-preserving process.
The silk glue-retaining process has the beneficial effects that 1, the raw silk white blank is immersed into a treatment liquid to fully fix sericin, then water washing, degumming and rinsing are sequentially carried out to obtain high sericin silk, the treatment liquid comprises 1.5-3wt% of aqueous acrylic resin, 1-2wt% of guanidine salt, 5-10wt% of silane modified polyurethane and the balance of water, a crosslinking agent is fully permeated into the raw silk white blank through a chemical crosslinking method, and then the aqueous acrylic resin and the silane modified polyurethane fully react with sericin under specific conditions to form a molecular winding structure to change the chemical structure and properties of the sericin, so that the water solubility of the sericin is reduced, the boiling resistance and alkali resistance are improved, the fixation of the sericin is realized, and meanwhile, the hand feeling of a raw silk white blank product is improved.
2. And a proper amount of guanidine salt is further adopted, so that sericin which is not combined with amino resin and silane modified polyurethane is reduced in the process of maintaining the sericin, the hand feeling of sericin silk is further improved, and the uneven dyeing condition of the sericin silk is further reduced (the second point is that the effect of the guanidine salt in the combination of the water-based acrylic resin, the guanidine salt and the silane modified polyurethane is highlighted).
Detailed Description
In order to make the technical scheme of the invention clearer, the invention is further described in detail by combining specific embodiments.
Embodiment 1, a silk glue-preserving process comprises the following preparation steps:
The process of maintaining the adhesive comprises the steps of reacting raw silk white blank (adopting gold silk, 22.5 m) with a treatment fluid according to a water bath ratio of 1:20 at 95 ℃ for 1.5h to fully fix the adhesive, wherein the treatment fluid is 2.5 wt% of water-soluble styrene-acrylic emulsion type water-based acrylic resin (average molecular weight is 8600), 2% of guanidine hydrochloride, 8% of silane modified polyurethane (SPUR+ 1015 of Michaer's corporation) and the balance of water.
Washing the raw silk blank after water bath reaction for 5 times to remove the cross-linking reactant which is not fully reacted on the surface of the raw silk blank.
Degumming, namely placing the washed and fully dried raw silk white blank into 0.2 percent sodium carbonate solution to be boiled at the temperature of 95 ℃ for 50 min, wherein the bath ratio is 1:80.
And (3) a rinsing process, namely placing the degummed raw silk white blank into 100 ℃ boiling water to be boiled for 10min times, repeating the process for 3 times to remove residual alkaline agent, and drying to obtain the high sericin silk.
Embodiment 2, a silk glue-preserving process, comprising the following preparation steps:
The process of glue preservation comprises the steps of reacting raw silk white blank with treatment fluid for 2 hours in a water bath at a temperature of 90 ℃ according to a water bath ratio of 1:10, so that the sericin is fully fixed, wherein the treatment fluid comprises 1.5wt% of water-soluble styrene-acrylic emulsion type water-based acrylic resin, 1wt% of guanidine carbonate, 10wt% of silane modified polyurethane (SPUR+ 3030 of Michaelis corporation) and the balance of water.
Washing the raw silk blank after water bath reaction for 3 times to remove the cross-linking reactant which is not fully reacted on the surface of the raw silk blank.
Degumming, namely placing the washed and fully dried raw silk white blank into 0.5 percent sodium carbonate solution to be boiled at 90 ℃ for 60 min, wherein the bath ratio is 1:100.
And (3) a rinsing process, namely placing the degummed raw silk white blank into 100 ℃ boiling water to be boiled for 10min times, repeating the process for 2 times to remove residual alkaline agent, and drying to obtain the high sericin silk.
Embodiment 3, a silk glue-preserving process, comprising the following preparation steps:
The process of glue preservation comprises the steps of reacting raw silk white blank with treatment fluid for 1h in a water bath at a water bath ratio of 1:30 and a temperature of 90 ℃ to fully fix the silk glue, wherein the treatment fluid comprises 3wt% of water-soluble styrene-acrylic emulsion type water-based acrylic resin, 2wt% of guanidine carbonate, 5wt% of silane modified polyurethane (SPUR+3030 of Michaelis corporation) and the balance of water.
Washing the raw silk blank after water bath reaction for 5 times to remove the cross-linking reactant which is not fully reacted on the surface of the raw silk blank.
Degumming, namely placing the washed and fully dried raw silk white blank into 0.1 percent sodium carbonate solution, boiling for 30 minutes at 98 ℃, and the bath ratio is 1:50.
And (3) a rinsing process, namely placing the degummed raw silk white blank into 100 ℃ boiling water to be boiled for 10 min times, repeating the process for 3 times to remove residual alkaline agent, and drying to obtain the high sericin silk.
Example 4, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1 in that the amount of styrene-acrylic emulsion type aqueous acrylic resin in the treatment fluid is 1wt%.
Example 5, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1 in that the amount of styrene-acrylic emulsion type aqueous acrylic resin in the treatment fluid is 3wt%.
Example 6, a silk gel retention process, is different from example 1 in that the amount of styrene-acrylic emulsion type aqueous acrylic resin in the treatment fluid is 4wt%.
Example 7, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1 in that the amount of styrene-acrylic emulsion type aqueous acrylic resin in the treatment fluid is 5wt%.
Example 8, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1in that the amount of guanidine hydrochloride in the treatment fluid is 0.5wt%.
Example 9, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1 in that the amount of guanidine hydrochloride in the treatment fluid is 3wt%.
Comparative example 1, a silk gel retention process, differs from example 1in that no styrene-acrylic emulsion type aqueous acrylic resin is used in the treatment fluid.
Performance detection
Sample:
The test sample is a silk sample obtained by degumming in the embodiments 1-9;
Comparative example sample the degummed silk sample of comparative example was used;
control sample, silk sample without degumming treatment.
1. Solution loss rate:
The dissolution rate is calculated by the following formula, wherein the dissolution rate is = (W1-W2)/W1 is 100%;
Wherein W1 is the dry weight of the untreated silk sample, W2 is the dry weight of the silk sample after degumming treatment by adopting the example or the comparative example, the negative sign indicates that the dry weight of the degumming treatment after degumming treatment is increased, the smaller the dissolution loss rate is, the better the gum-protecting effect is, and the experimental result is shown in Table 1.
2. Boiling water and weak base conditions:
The test sample, the comparative sample and the blank sample were respectively placed in boiled water for treatment for 10min, and the state change of the sample and the mass loss before and after the treatment were observed and sensed, and the experimental results are shown in table 2.
The test sample, the comparative sample and the blank sample were respectively placed in a sodium carbonate solution having a concentration of 2 g/L for treatment for 10 minutes, and the state change of the sample and the mass loss before and after the treatment were observed and sensed, and the experimental results are shown in Table 2.
TABLE 1 test results list of silk sample dissolution rates obtained with examples 1-9 and comparative example 1
| Group of |
Comparative example 1 |
Example 1 |
Example 2 |
Example 3 |
Example 4 |
Example 5 |
Example 6 |
Example 7 |
Example 8 |
Example 9 |
| Loss rate (%) |
21.28 |
1.69 |
16.76 |
2.06 |
6.81 |
-1.12 |
-1.35 |
-1.83 |
4.37 |
6.65 |
As shown in the data of different examples in Table 1, the larger the dissolution rate value, the more the sericin is dissolved out, and the worse the gel retention effect is. Therefore, examples 1, 3,5, 6 and 7 have relatively good glue-retaining effect, and more than 20% of the dissolution loss of comparative example 1 shows that the sericin is almost stripped and hardly retained.
TABLE 2 variation list of silk samples and control silk samples obtained in examples 1-9 and comparative example 1 after treatment with boiling water and lye
| Performance index |
Examples 1 to 9 |
Comparative example sample |
Control sample |
| Under the condition of boiling water |
Has no change of hardness and basically no loss of quality |
Hardening and mass loss of 3-8% |
The sericin is hardened after falling and drying, and the mass loss is 10-15 percent |
| Under weak alkali condition |
Has no change of hardness and basically no loss of quality |
The sericin falls off, becomes soft after drying, and has 10-20 percent of mass loss |
Softening the sericin after the sericin is completely removed and dried, and losing 20-25% of mass |
Performance tests were performed on the examples, comparative examples and blank samples.
3. Warp combing:
and (3) carrying out warp combing crack detection on the silk fabric by using GB/T21294-2024, wherein the test results are shown in Table 3.
4. Softness and color
According to the factory cargo checking flow, a factory cargo inspector manually observes and evaluates the hand feeling softness of the silk fabric through hand touch.
The test method is as follows:
the inspection staff has inspection experience for more than 2 years, and the silk fabric is rated.
Each inspection person randomly performs spot check on each roll of silk fabric for 10 times, each spot check takes the area of 30 multiplied by 30cm as the unit spot check area, the hand feeling softness and the color of a test sample are evaluated, 2 inspection persons evaluate the test sample according to the evaluation method, the scoring results are averaged, the results are shown in table 3, and the scoring standards are as follows:
1 part, the soft hand feeling and the color are obviously inferior to those of the original silk fabric, the obvious difference influencing sales is caused, and the fabric cannot be sold after being reduced.
1-2 Minutes (excluding 2), the silk fabric is soft in hand feeling and color, and can be sold after being degraded.
The fabric is 2-3 minutes (excluding 3), has soft hand feeling and color slightly inferior to those of the original silk fabric, but does not need to be reduced.
3-4 Minutes, the soft hand feeling and the color are slightly different from those of the original silk fabric, and the reduction is not needed.
TABLE 3 evaluation results list of warp combing and soft color Performance of Silk fabrics of examples 1-9, comparative example 1
| Group of |
Example 1 |
Example 2 |
Example 3 |
Example 4 |
Example 5 |
Example 6 |
Example 7 |
Example 8 |
Example 9 |
Comparative example 1 |
Control group |
| Warp direction careless crack (mm) |
1.75 |
1.88 |
1.78 |
1.80 |
1.72 |
1.71 |
1.68 |
1.77 |
1.81 |
1.90 |
1.91 |
| Color of hand feeling |
4 |
2.5 |
4 |
3.6 |
4 |
4 |
4 |
3.8 |
3.5 |
2 |
- |
According to the application, the high sericin silk is treated by the treatment liquid, the treatment liquid is prepared by adopting the compatibility of the aqueous acrylic resin, the guanidine salt and the silane modified polyurethane, and the dosage of the aqueous acrylic resin, the guanidine salt and the silane modified polyurethane is further optimized, so that the obtained silk retains higher sericin, and meanwhile, the obtained silk and silk fabric have higher mechanical property, softness, dyeing glossiness and uniform dyeing property, and the obtained silk and silk fabric have excellent comprehensive properties.
As shown in the data of the different examples in table 3, when the effect of retaining the adhesive is good, the adhesive force between the threads is enhanced, so that the threads are less likely to slip. In this case, the combing data of the fabric will be reduced, i.e. the combing resistance will be enhanced. In addition, the silk fabric loses the original color and luster and becomes soft when the sericin is stripped off. The hand feel is hardened without the retention of the sericin, and the score is higher when the sericin is retained and soft hand feel is maintained after the retention of the sericin, so that the embodiments 1,3,5, 6 and 7 have relatively good retention effects, and more preferably the embodiments 1,3,5 and 6.
The foregoing examples illustrate only a few embodiments of the invention and are described in detail herein without thereby limiting the scope of the invention. It should be noted that it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that several variations and modifications can be made without departing from the spirit of the invention, which are all within the scope of the invention. Accordingly, the scope of protection of the present invention is to be determined by the appended claims.