CN116211745A - 一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物及制备方法 - Google Patents
一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物及制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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- CN116211745A CN116211745A CN202211695223.5A CN202211695223A CN116211745A CN 116211745 A CN116211745 A CN 116211745A CN 202211695223 A CN202211695223 A CN 202211695223A CN 116211745 A CN116211745 A CN 116211745A
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Abstract
本发明提供了一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物及制备方法,涉及化妆品组合物技术领域。本申请公开的组合物通过控制润肤剂和乳化剂的具体原料,尤其是控制润肤剂为异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷‑11、双‑PEG‑15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚‑7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12‑15醇苯甲酸酯;乳化剂为PEG‑100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇,本申请通过合理选择润肤剂和乳化剂与防晒剂组合,得到的防晒产品既能减少组合物的油腻感,从而达到防晒指数高、抗水性好的效果;另外,本申请制备的组合物防晒效果好,能够实现全波段防护。
Description
技术领域
本申请涉及化妆品组合物技术领域,具体涉及一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物及制备方法。
背景技术
随着生活水平的提高,以及消费者对防晒产品的认知也不断提高,消费者不仅需要防晒产品发挥更高的紫外线防御能力,而且需要有良好的使用感,市面上常见的防晒产品,通常其配方体系及其特点如下:1、油包水(W/O)型:抗水抗汗,但肤感油腻而肤感欠佳,膏霜或乳液的稳定性较差;2、水包油(O/W)型:肤感清爽、肤感悦人,但抗水差,而为了增加抗水性必需添加抗水成膜成分,但又会使产品肤感变差;3、无水型:高度抗水,但肤感欠佳,会比较油腻;4、凝胶水基体系:肤感清爽,但抗水性极差,产品SPF通常较低;5、凝胶水醇体系:抗水性较为改善,但通常导致SPF降低,且对面部、眼部有刺激。
但是目前使用较多的防晒产品为油包水或水包油剂型,水包油剂型较油包水剂型的体验感更好,但水包油剂型的抗水性一直其作为防晒产品最大的缺陷,虽然通过配合成膜剂可以改善水包油体系的抗水性,但成膜剂的使用会大大影响体验感。
另外,防晒剂的选择也会在一定程度上影响防晒剂的体验感,防晒产品中常用的防晒剂包括有机防晒剂和无机防晒剂,无机防晒剂虽具有安全性高、稳定性好的优点,但由于其在皮肤表面沉积成较厚的白色层,所以容易堵塞毛孔,影响皮脂腺和汗腺的正常分泌,且容易脱落,从而影响使用的体验感;有机防晒剂会对皮肤有一定的刺激作用,容易引起过敏反应,并且有机防晒剂会破坏水包油体系的稳定性,因此生产一款防晒指数高、使用后满意度高、清爽不油腻,且稳定性好的防晒产品是行业内一直研究的课题。
中国专利申请202010996389.5中公开了一种天然植物基清凉防晒组合物及其制备方法,该防晒组合物由植物提取基质和有效防晒成分组成,有效防晒成分与植物提取基质质量比为1:20-25,植物提取基质包括,芦荟-黄柏提取物、空心载体、海藻胶、精制水,有效防晒成分包括,纳米氧化锌、纳米二氧化钛、纳米氮化硼,该申请通过合理优化原料的选配,将无机防晒成分均匀分散负载于空心载体上,同时外层包覆透气养护层,清凉滋润,导热散热快且有利于提高肌肤渗透的吸收性,快速补水保湿,综合紫外屏蔽性好,高效防护,但是该申请制备的防晒产品中有效防晒成分为纳米氧化锌、纳米二氧化钛和纳米氮化硼均为无机防晒剂,其在皮肤表面沉积成较厚的白色层,所以容易堵塞毛孔,影响皮脂腺和汗腺的正常分泌,且容易脱落,从而影响使用的体验感,并且该申请制备的防晒产品的防晒指数不能更好地满足需求。
中国专利申请201610065853.2中公开了一种防晒组合物,包括按重量份计的如下组分:防晒剂8-22份、润肤油脂3-6.5份、丙二醇藻酸酯1.2-5份、乙基纤维素0.15-0.45份、丙二醇异硬脂酸酯0.15-0.45份、水58.2-82份、保湿剂1-5份和辅料0.5-4份;所述辅料包括增稠剂和中和剂。其公开使用的防晒剂为肉桂酸酯类防晒剂、二苯甲酰甲烷类防晒剂、苯并三唑类防晒剂、二苯甲酮类防晒剂、含氮杂环酮类防晒剂中的一种或几种,具体的其使用的防晒剂为:甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯、二乙氨基羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯、双-乙基己氧苯酚甲氧苯基三嗪、乙基己基三嗪酮、氰双苯丙烯酸辛酯和亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚,该防晒组合物,虽然具有清爽感好、易涂抹、防水防汗等优点,但是该组合物不能实现UVA、UVB、HEV和IRA的全波段防护。
因此,仍需要开发一种防晒指数高且可以实现全波段防护、清爽不油腻,且稳定性好的防晒产品。
发明内容
基于现有技术中存在的的问题,本申请旨在提供一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物及制备方法,本申请将有机防晒剂和物理防晒剂混合使用,并且合理控制选用合理的乳化剂和润肤剂,能够使油相和水相中的防晒剂相互配合,从而达到更好的防晒效果;另外,本申请还在组合物中添加了皮肤调理剂,通过控制皮肤调理剂的具体组分,从而使组合物具有提高皮肤屏障,增强保湿锁水功效的作用。
为了实现上述目的,本申请采用以下技术方案:
本发明的一个目的是提供一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物,按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:润肤剂10-20%、乳化剂2-10%、增稠剂0.4-1.0%、保湿剂0.2-0.8%、皮肤调理剂0.01-0.02%、防晒剂15-25%、抗氧化剂0.5-1.0%、填充剂0.2-0.8%、防腐剂0.5-0.8%、pH调节剂0.04-0.06%、芳香剂0.06-0.08%和溶剂余量。
优选地,所述的组合物,按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:润肤剂12-18%、乳化剂3-8%、增稠剂0.5-0.7%、保湿剂0.5-0.8%、皮肤调理剂0.013-0.016%、防晒剂18-20%、抗氧化剂0.6-0.8%、填充剂0.4-0.6%、防腐剂0.6-0.8%、pH调节剂0.05-0.06%、芳香剂0.07-0.08%和溶剂余量。
其中,所述的润肤剂选自异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯中的一种或几种;
所述的乳化剂选自PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇中的一种或几种;
所述的增稠剂选自丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-80、山梨坦油酸酯和水的混合物,丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物和黄原胶中的一种或几种;
所述的保湿剂选自甘油或/和透明质酸钠;
所述的皮肤调理剂选自肌肽、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIATERNIFOLIA)籽油、沙棘(HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)果油、小麦(TRITICUM VULGARE)胚芽油和燕麦(AVENASATIVA)胚芽油中的一种或几种;
所述的防晒剂选自甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯、乙基己基三嗪酮、二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物中的一种或几种。
所述的抗氧化剂为生育酚乙酸酯;
所述的填充剂为硅石;
所述的防腐剂为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯和羟苯丙酯中的一种或几种;
所述的pH调节剂为三乙醇胺;
所述的芳香剂为本领域常用的香精。
所述的溶剂为水、乙醇和甲基丙二醇的混合液。
本发明在实施过程中通过合理控制各组分的具体成分,尤其是乳化剂和润肤剂的具体组分,控制润肤剂为质量比6:3:2:2的异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯;乳化剂为质量比为2:1.2:0.5:0.3的PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇,本申请通过合理选择润肤剂和乳化剂与防晒剂组合,得到的防晒产品既能减少组合物的油腻感,从而达到防晒指数高、抗水性好的效果。
另外,本申请在实施过程中通过控制润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比为1:0.1-1:0.75-2.5,优选为1.4:0.4:1.9时,配合本申请所述的增稠剂使用,使得到的组合物具有较高的稳定性,长期放置不会出现分层的情况。
本申请的另一个目的是提供一种上述组合物的制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)将增稠剂和部分溶剂加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将润肤剂、防晒剂、乳化剂、保湿剂、填充剂和部分防腐剂原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70-75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3-5分钟,抽真空,恒温83-87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入抗氧化剂、芳香剂、皮肤调理剂、剩余的防腐剂和溶剂,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
作为一个优选的技术方案,所述的一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物,按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:
A相:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-80、山梨坦油酸酯和水的混合物0.6%,丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05%,黄原胶0.02%,甲基丙二醇6%和水51.776%;
B相:异十六烷6%,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物3%,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯2%,甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯8%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物3%,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑2%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷3%,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物2%,PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物2%,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯2%,乙基己基三嗪酮2%,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾1.2%,甘油0.5%,硅石0.5%,硬脂酸0.5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇0.3%,羟苯甲酯0.2%,羟苯丙酯0.1%;
C相:生育酚乙酸酯0.8%,苯氧乙醇0.3%,香精0.08%,三乙醇胺0.05%,肌肽0.01%、透明质酸钠0.01%、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIATERNIFOLIA)籽油0.001%、沙棘(HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)果油0.001%、小麦(TRITICUM VULGARE)胚芽油0.001%,燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)胚芽油0.001%和乙醇2%。
本申请还提供了上述组合物的制备方法,具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70-75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3-5分钟,抽真空,恒温83-87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
本申请的在一个目的是提供了上述组合物在制备防晒化妆品中的应用,所述的防晒化妆品包括但不限于乳液、精华、霜等。
与现有技术相比,本申请的有益效果在于:
(1)本申请公开的组合物通过控制润肤剂和乳化剂的具体原料,尤其是控制润肤剂为质量比6:3:2:2的异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯;乳化剂为质量比为2:1.2:0.5:0.3的PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇,本申请通过合理选择润肤剂和乳化剂与防晒剂组合,得到的防晒产品既能减少组合物的油腻感,从而达到防晒指数高、抗水性好的效果;
(2)本申请公开的组合物中选用有机防晒剂和无机防晒剂混合,通过乳化剂和润肤剂的相互作用能够使油相和水相中的防晒剂相互配合,从而达到更好的防晒效果,能够实现全波段防护;
(3)本申请在实施过程中通过控制润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比为1:0.1-1:0.75-2.5,优选为1.4:0.4:1.9时,配合增稠剂使用,使得到的组合物具有较高的稳定性,长期放置不会出现分层的情况。
具体实施方式
本发明中提到的上述特征,或实施例提到的特征可以任意组合。本案说明书所解释的所有特征可与任意方法形式并用,说明书中揭示的各个特征,可被任何可提供相同、均等或相似目的的取代性特征取代。因此除有特殊说明,所揭示的特征仅为均等或相似特征的一般性例子。
下面结合具体实施例,进一步阐述本发明。这些实施例仅用于说明本发明而不用于限制本发明的范围。下列实施例中为注明具体条件的实施方法,通常按照常规条件或按照制造厂商所建议的条件。除非特殊说明,否则所有的百分比和分数按重量计。
除非另行定义,文中所使用的所有专业与科学用语与本领域技术人员所熟知的意义相同。此外,任何与所记载内容相似或均等的方法及材料皆可应用于本发明方法中。文中所述的优选实施方法与材料仅做示范作用。
以下实施例中所使用的原料均可通过商业购买的方式获得,均为市售产品。
基础实施例一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物
按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:润肤剂10-20%、乳化剂2-10%、增稠剂0.4-1.0%、保湿剂0.2-0.8%、皮肤调理剂0.01-0.02%、防晒剂15-25%、抗氧化剂0.5-1.0%、填充剂0.2-0.8%、防腐剂0.5-0.8%、pH调节剂0.04-0.06%、芳香剂0.06-0.08%和溶剂余量。
其中:所述的润肤剂选自异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯中的一种或几种;
所述的乳化剂选自PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇中的一种或几种;
所述的增稠剂选自丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-80、山梨坦油酸酯和水的混合物,丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物和黄原胶中的一种或几种;
所述的保湿剂选自甘油或/和透明质酸钠;
所述的皮肤调理剂选自肌肽、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA)籽油、沙棘(HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)果油、小麦(TRITICUM VULGARE)胚芽油和燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)胚芽油中的一种或几种;
所述的防晒剂包括有机防晒剂和无机防晒剂;
所述的有机防晒剂选自甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯和乙基己基三嗪酮中的一种或几种;
所述的无机防晒剂为二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物。
所述的抗氧化剂为生育酚乙酸酯;
所述的填充剂为硅石;
所述的防腐剂为苯氧乙醇、羟苯甲酯和羟苯丙酯中的一种或几种;
所述的pH调节剂为三乙醇胺;
所述的芳香剂为本领域常用的香精。
所述的溶剂为水、乙醇和甲基丙二醇的混合液。
制备方法包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70-75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3-5分钟,抽真空,恒温83-87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
其中,A相包括如下组分:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-80、山梨坦油酸酯和水的混合物,丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物,黄原胶,甲基丙二醇和水;
B相包括如下组分:异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯,甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑、环五聚二甲基硅氧烷,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物,PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯,乙基己基三嗪酮,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,甘油,硅石,硬脂酸,鲸蜡硬脂醇,羟苯甲酯,羟苯丙酯;
C相包括如下组分:生育酚乙酸酯,苯氧乙醇,香精,三乙醇胺,肌肽、透明质酸钠、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA)籽油、沙棘(HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)果油、小麦(TRITICUM VULGARE)胚芽油,燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)胚芽油和乙醇。
实施例1一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物
按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:
制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化5分钟,抽真空,恒温83℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
实施例2一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物
按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:
制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化5分钟,抽真空,恒温85℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
实施例3一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物
按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:
制备方法,包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3分钟,抽真空,恒温87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
对比例1
与实施例1的区别在于:将乳化剂仅使用PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,即添加PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物4%,其他组分以及含量与实施例1相同。
对比例2
与实施例1的区别在于:乳化剂仅使用鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾和硬脂酸,其中鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾2.82%,硬脂酸1.18%,其他组分以及含量与实施例1相同。
对比例3
与实施例1的区别在于:润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比为0.4:1.4:1.9,其他组分以及含量与实施例1相同,即:
对比例4
中国专利申请202011137883.2中实施例5制备的防晒凝露。
效果验证
1、稳定性测试
测试方法:为了验证实施例1-3以及对比例1-4所制得的防晒组合物的稳定性,根据GB/T29665-2013,并参考GB/T16497-2007,对防晒组合物进行稳定性测试。
测试1:3000r·min-1离心30min后观察防晒霜是否分层;
测试2:48℃连续恒温20d,再恢复室温保持8h以上,观察防晒霜是否有分层、析出固体或其他不均一的现象;
测试3:在-25℃连续冷冻20d,再恢复室温保持8h以上,观察防晒霜是否有分层、析出固体或其他不均一的现象;
测试4:在48℃和-25℃条件下分别24h冷热交替循环20d,再恢复室温保持8h以上,观察防晒霜是否有分层、析出固体或其他不均一的现象。
上述测试中,若防晒霜均无分层、析出固体或其他不均一现象,则稳定性测试通过,否则为稳定性测试未通过,具体检测结果见下表1。
表1实施例1-3以及对比例1-4所制得的防晒组合物的稳定性测试
根据上表1的检测结果可以看出,本申请实施例1-3制备的防晒霜组合物的稳定性较好,经过检测离心稳定性、高温稳定性、低温稳定性以及高低温交替稳定性均较好,不会出现分层、析出固体或其他不均一现象,因此实施例1-3制备的防晒组合物稳定性测试通过;而对比例1-2改变乳化剂的种类会在一定程度上影响防晒组合物的稳定性,尤其是高低温交替稳定性,在48℃和-25℃条件下分别24h冷热交替循环20d后防晒剂会出现明显分层,从而影响使用;对比例3改变润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比不在本申请保护范围内,同样会影响防晒剂的稳定性,高温稳定性和高低温交替稳定性均没有通过;对比例4中对现有的防晒剂进行了稳定性检测,同样存在高温稳定性和高低温交替稳定性不好的情况。由此可知,只有采用本申请技术方案制备的防晒剂才具有更好的稳定性。
2、抗水性测试(此方法借鉴现有技术公开的方法)
测试方法:防晒性能试验方法:将实施例1-3和对比例1-4的防晒霜以2mg/cm2的量涂敷在PMMA板上,将含有样品的PMMA板上,干燥15分钟,并使用UV2000S测量仪器测量,SPF值为3次测试的平均值。测试结果见下表2。
将实施例1-3和对比例1-4的防晒霜以2mg/cm2的量涂敷在PMMA板上,将含有样品的PMMA板浸泡在水中40分钟,接着干燥15分钟,并使用UV2000S测量仪器测量,经抗水试验测试后SPF值为3次测试的平均值。测试结果见下表2。
下降率=(SPF值-经抗水试验测试后SPF值)/SPF值×100%
表2实施例1-3以及对比例1-4所制得的防晒组合物的抗水性测试
| SPF值 | 经抗水试验测试后SPF值 | 下降率% | |
| 实施例1 | 42.9 | 38.6 | 10.0 |
| 实施例2 | 40.6 | 34.8 | 14.3 |
| 实施例3 | 41.5 | 35.8 | 13.7 |
| 对比例1 | 42.5 | 30.9 | 27.3 |
| 对比例2 | 41.9 | 28.4 | 32.2 |
| 对比例3 | 39.7 | 25.2 | 36.5 |
| 对比例4 | 35.9 | 19.8 | 44.8 |
根据上表2的检测数据可以看出,本申请实施例1-3制备的防晒霜组合物具有更好的抗水性能,经过抗水性测试后SPF值下降率最高仅为14.3%;而对比例1-2改变乳化剂的种类会在一定程度上影响防晒组合物的抗水性,SPF值下降率分别为27.3%和32.2%,明显高于实施例1;对比例3改变润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比不在本申请保护范围内,会明显影响防晒剂的抗水性能,SPF值下降率为36.5%;对比例4中对现有的防晒剂的抗水性能明显降低。由此可知,只有采用本申请技术方案制备的防晒剂才具有更好的抗水性。
以上具体实施方式仅用以说明本发明的技术方案而非限制,尽管参照实例对本发明进行了详细说明,本领域的普通技术人员应当理解,可以对本发明的技术方案进行修改或者等同替换,而不脱离本发明技术方案的范围,其均应涵盖在本发明的权利要求范围当中。
Claims (13)
1.一种温和无刺激且具有防晒功效的组合物,其特征在于:按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:润肤剂10-20%、乳化剂2-10%、增稠剂0.4-1.0%、保湿剂0.2-0.8%、皮肤调理剂0.01-0.02%、防晒剂15-25%、抗氧化剂0.5-1.0%、填充剂0.2-0.8%、防腐剂0.5-0.8%、pH调节剂0.04-0.06%、芳香剂0.06-0.08%和溶剂余量;
所述的润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比为1:0.1-1:0.75-2.5。
2.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:润肤剂12-18%、乳化剂3-8%、增稠剂0.5-0.7%、保湿剂0.5-0.8%、皮肤调理剂0.013-0.016%、防晒剂18-20%、抗氧化剂0.6-0.8%、填充剂0.4-0.6%、防腐剂0.6-0.8%、pH调节剂0.05-0.06%、芳香剂0.07-0.08%和溶剂余量。
3.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的润肤剂选自异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯中的一种或几种。
4.根据权利要求3所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的润肤剂为质量比6:3:2:2的异十六烷,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷和C12-15醇苯甲酸酯。
5.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的乳化剂选自PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇中的一种或几种。
6.根据权利要求5所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的乳化剂为质量比为2:1.2:0.5:0.3的PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾,硬脂酸和鲸蜡硬脂醇。
7.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的皮肤调理剂选自肌肽、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA)籽油、沙棘(HIPPOPHAE RHAMNOIDES)果油、小麦(TRITICUMVULGARE)胚芽油和燕麦(AVENA SATIVA)胚芽油中的一种或几种。
8.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的防晒剂选自甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯、乙基己基三嗪酮、二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物中的一种或几种。
9.根据权利要求1所述的组合物,其特征在于:所述的润肤剂、乳化剂和防晒剂的质量比为1.4:0.4:1.9。
10.根据权利要求1-9任一项所述的组合物的制备方法,其特征在于:包括如下步骤:
(1)将增稠剂和部分溶剂加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将润肤剂、防晒剂、乳化剂、保湿剂、填充剂和部分防腐剂原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70-75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3-5分钟,抽真空,恒温83-87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入抗氧化剂、芳香剂、皮肤调理剂、剩余的防腐剂和溶剂,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
11.根据权利要求1-9任一项所述的组合物,其特征在于:按重量百分含量计包括如下组分:
A相:丙烯酰胺/丙烯酰基二甲基牛磺酸钠共聚物、异十六烷、聚山梨醇酯-80、山梨坦油酸酯和水的混合物0.6%,丙烯酸(酯)类/C10-30烷醇丙烯酸酯交联聚合物0.05%,黄原胶0.02%,甲基丙二醇6%和水51.776%;
B相:异十六烷6%,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物3%,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯2%,甲氧基肉桂酸乙基己酯8%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷、聚硅氧烷-11、双-PEG-15甲基醚聚二甲基硅氧烷和月桂醇聚醚-7的混合物3%,4-甲基苄亚基樟脑2%,环五聚二甲基硅氧烷3%,亚甲基双-苯并三唑基四甲基丁基酚、癸基葡糖苷、黄原胶、丙二醇和水的混合物2%,PEG-100硬脂酸酯和甘油硬脂酸酯的混合物2%,二乙氨羟苯甲酰基苯甲酸己酯2%,乙基己基三嗪酮2%,鲸蜡醇磷酸酯钾1.2%,甘油0.5%,硅石0.5%,硬脂酸0.5%,鲸蜡硬脂醇0.3%,羟苯甲酯0.2%,羟苯丙酯0.1%;
C相:生育酚乙酸酯0.8%,苯氧乙醇0.3%,香精0.08%,三乙醇胺0.05%,肌肽0.01%、透明质酸钠0.01%、澳洲坚果(MACADAMIA TERNIFOLIA)籽油0.001%、沙棘(HIPPOPHAERHAMNOIDES)果油0.001%、小麦(TRITICUM VULGARE)胚芽油0.001%,燕麦(AVENASATIVA)胚芽油0.001%和乙醇2%。
12.根据权利要求11所述的组合物的制备方法,其特征在于:具体包括如下步骤:
(1)将A相组分加入水相锅中,搅拌升温至80-85℃,充分搅拌均匀,保温备用,得水相料;
(2)将异十六烷,二氧化钛和三乙氧基辛基硅烷的混合物,C12-15醇苯甲酸酯碾磨细腻后与B相剩余原料混合加入油相锅中,搅拌升温至70-75℃,充分搅拌均匀,得油相料;
(3)先将水相料体抽入真空乳化机,再将油相料体抽入,搅拌均匀后,均质乳化3-5分钟,抽真空,恒温83-87℃,保持搅拌保温10分钟,得混合物;
(4)将混合物降温至45℃时,加入C相原料,充分搅拌均匀后,降温至38℃时,得到所述组合物。
13.根据权利要求根据权利要求1-9、11任一项所述的组合物或权利要求10或12所述的制备方法制备的组合物在制备防晒化妆品中的应用,所述的防晒化妆品包括但不限于乳液、精华、霜等。
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