CN1154063A - Cosmetic compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising a silicone oil selected from volatile silicones, nonvolatile silicones and mixtures thereof, optionally a wetting agent, at least one coating Or non-encapsulated iron oxide-type pigments and TiO _2- coated sheet-type interference pigments, wherein the TiO ₂ layer is about 120nm to 160nm thick or an integer multiple of it. The cosmetic composition exhibits improved moisturization and improved skin feel and appearance and tonal accuracy.

Description

cosmetic composition

Field of Invention

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, in particular a base makeup composition, having improved moisturizing efficacy, application performance, skin feel and appearance, and tone-correct properties.

Background of the Invention

The primer composition can be applied to the face and other parts of the body to even out the tone and texture of the skin and to conceal pores, imperfections, fine lines, and the like. The base color composition is also used to moisturise the skin, balance the oiliness of the skin and protect the skin from sun, wind and harsh environments.

Cosmetic compositions are generally available in the form of liquid or milky suspensions, emulsions, gels, pressed powders or compositions of anhydrous oils and waxes.

USP3444291 discloses a method of filling and covering skin imperfections by applying a composition comprising 65 to 75 parts by weight of microcrystalline wax and about 25 to 35 parts of mineral oil. The composition comprises a colorant, preferably coal tar dye, such as D&C Red No. 17, which matches the skin tone of the user.

USP 4,486,405 discloses a spreadable, flowable and non-greasy cosmetic cover composition. The composition is characterized by the presence of the first and second alkoxylated surfactants at substantially the same concentration.

USP 4804532 describes a facial powder cosmetic which uses a much lower concentration of crystalline silica than prior art compositions. Used as a rouge or face covering, the powder is believed to be very effective in concealing skin wrinkles, fine lines and pores. The composition is a mixture of a colorant phase and a diluent phase. The colorant phase is formed by mixing high-quality silica and colorants. The resulting colorant phase is mixed with a diluent phase formed essentially of nacreous materials such as talc and mica to form the mixture.

USP 3,978,207 describes the use of base color compositions with very high concentrations of nacreous materials. The base pigment in the form of a pressed powder composition is characterized by the presence of nacreous materials such as mica and binding oils, which give a frosty pearl effect, ie a glossy appearance. The color of the base color composition is provided by nacreous materials.

USP 4,659,562 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising, as a binder, an intimately mixed mixture of 5 to 95% by weight of homogeneously dispersed silica and about 5 to 95% by weight of homogeneously dispersed polyethylene fibers . The composition is believed to maintain uniformity over the area of skin to which it is applied. That is, it is believed to be "wrinkle-resistant". The composition of the '562 patent includes a mixture of colorants and nacreous agents.

Nakamura et al., "(XIV I.F.S.C.C. Conference Preprint Collection", Barcelona, 1986, Vol. I, pp. 51-63 (1986) describe a new type of Cosmetic composition. The composition is said to provide a base color composition that reduces the visibility of wrinkles to a greater extent than compared cosmetic base compositions. Wherein the reduction in the visibility of wrinkles is caused by spherical silica and polydimethyl The enhanced optical blur effect caused by the new application of base siloxane.

USP 5,143,722 discloses a cosmetic composition comprising a water-in-oil emulsion, wherein the emulsion comprises a pigment coated with polysiloxane, a silicone phase, an aqueous phase and a polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer biosurfactant.

Metal oxide encapsulated matrix nacreous pigments are known in the art, examples of which are titanium dioxide and/or zirconium dioxide encapsulated mica. Such colorants are described in USA 3497515, USA 3418146, USA 3087828 and USA-4038099. Depending on the thickness of the metal oxide coating film, the colorant can exhibit interference or reflective colors of blue, green, yellow, red, etc.

Base color compositions in the form of water-in-oil emulsions are well known and give good coverage and skin feel, durability and appearance. However, these lotions were unsuccessful in terms of toning the skin tone accurately and reducing redness of the skin.

There is a need to provide a cosmetic composition which not only provides good coverage of the skin but also reduces any unevenly pigmented or reddish complexion. Research has been done in the past to correct red facial complexions by applying a green undertone followed by a traditional undertone. Therefore, there is a need to provide a single base color composition which not only gives skin tone correct effect and good coverage, but also does not turn the skin green.

It was therefore an object of the present invention to provide a base makeup composition in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion which exhibits a good moisturizing effect as well as a good coverage and skin tone correction effect.

Summary of the invention

According to the present invention, there is provided a cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising:

a) from about 1% to about 50% by weight of a silicone oil selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof,

b) optional wetting agents not exceeding about 30% by weight,

c) from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of at least one encapsulated or unencapsulated iron oxide pigment, and

d) From about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of TiO2 _{- wrapped} lamellar-type interference colorant, having a _TiO2 layer of about 120nm to about 160nm thick or an integer multiple thereof.

The water-in-oil emulsions of the present invention provide improved shade accuracy and good coverage, skin appearance and excellent moisturization.

All levels and ratios are based on the total weight of the composition, unless otherwise specified. Chain length and degree of alkoxylation are also expressed as weight averages.

Detailed description of the invention

The cosmetic composition of the invention comprises a mixture of volatile and/or non-volatile silicones, pigments of the iron oxide type, interference pigments of the _TiO2 lamellar type and optionally a wetting agent. The composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.

The first essential component of the water-in-oil emulsion is silicone oil, which in a preferred embodiment comprises a mixture of volatile and non-volatile silicones. The amount of silicone oil is from about 1% to about 50% by weight. Suitable volatile silicone oils include cyclic and linear volatile polyorganosiloxanes (the term "volatile" as used herein means those materials which have a measurable vapor pressure at ambient conditions).

A description of various volatile silicones can be found in Todd et al., "Volatile Silicone Fluids for Cosmetics", 91 Cosmetics and Tioletries 27-32 (1976).

Preferred cyclic siloxanes include polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably from about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms. Preferred linear silicone oils include polydimethylsiloxanes containing from about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms. Linear volatile silicones generally have viscosities of less than about 5 centistokes (25°C), while cyclic materials have viscosities of less than about 10 centistokes. Examples of silicone oils suitable for use in the present invention include: Dow Corning 344, Dow Corning 21330, Dow Corning 345 and Dow Corning 200 (manufactured by Dow Corning Company), Silicone 7207 and Silicone 7158 (manufactured by Union Carbide), SF: 202 (manufactured by General Electric Company) and SWS-03314 (manufactured by Stauffer Chemical Company).

Suitable non-volatile silicones preferably have an average viscosity of about 1,000 to about 2,000,000 mm ² ·S ^-1 (25°C), more preferably about 10,000 to about 1,800,000 mm ² ·S ^-1 , still more preferably about 100,000 to about 1,500,000 mm ² ·S ⁻¹ . It is also possible, however, to use lower viscosity non-volatile silicone conditioners. Viscosity may be measured with the aid of a glass capillary viscometer supplied by Dow Corning Corporate Test Method CTM0004, Jul. 20, 1970. Nonvolatile silicone fluids suitable for use herein include polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, aminofunctional substituted polysiloxanes, polyether siloxane copolymers substances and their mixtures. The siloxanes useful in the present invention may be terminated with any number of molecular moieties including, for example, methyl, hydroxy, oxypropylene, oxypropylene, amino and carboxyl groups. However, other silicone fluids having skin conditioning properties can be used. Non-volatile polyalkylsiloxane fluids that can be used include, for example, polydimethylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available, for example, from General Electric Company in the Viscasil (RTM) series and from Dow Corning in the Dow Cerning 200 series. The viscosity range at 25°C is preferably about 10 mm ² ·S ^-1 to about 100,000 mm ² ·S ^-1 . Polyalkylarylsiloxane fluids which can be used also include, for example, polymethylphenylsiloxanes. These siloxanes are available as SF 1075 methyl phenyl fluid from the General Electric Company or 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid from Dow Corning. Polyether siloxane copolymers that can be used include, for example, a polypropylene oxide modified dimethylpolysiloxane (such as DowCorning DC-1248), ethylene oxide or ethylene oxide and epoxy A mixture of propane is used for the modification.

Documents describing suitable silicone fluids include Green, USA 2826551, Drakoff, June 22, 1976, USA 3964500; Pader, USA 4364837; and Woolston, GBA 849433. Additionally, Silicone Compounds, classified by Petrarch Systems Inc. in 1984, provides an extensive (but not exhaustive) list of suitable silicone fluids.

Preferred nonvolatile silicones suitable for use herein include polydiorganosiloxane polyoxyalkylene copolymers containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment, the The polydiorganosiloxane segment consists essentially of R _b SiO _(4-b)/2 siloxane units, where b has a value from about 0 to about 3, for all siloxane units in the copolymer There are an average of about 2 R groups per silicon, and R is selected from the group consisting of methyl, ethyl, vinyl, phenyl, and a dihydrogen group that bonds the polyoxyalkylene segment to the polydiorganosiloxane segment. valent groups, at least about 95% of all R groups are methyl groups; and the polyoxyalkylene segment has an average molecular weight of at least about 1000 and is composed of about 0 to about 50 mole percent polyoxypropylene units and about 50 to about 100% (mol) of polyoxyethylene units, at least one end of the polyoxyalkylene segment is bonded to the polydiorganosiloxane segment and is not bonded to the polydiorganosiloxane segment Any end of the polyoxyalkylene segment on the siloxane segment is saturated with a termination group; the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segment to polyoxyalkylene segment in the copolymer From about 2 to about 8. Such polymers are described in USA 4268499. More preferred for use herein are polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymers represented by the formula: wherein X and Y are selected such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments is from about 2 to about 8, the molar ratio a:(a+b) is from about 0.5 to about 1, and R is Chain terminating group, especially selected from hydrogen; hydroxyl; alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, propyl, butyl, benzyl; aryl such as phenyl; alkoxy such as methoxy, ethoxy, propoxy benzyloxy; aryloxy such as phenoxy; alkenyloxy such as ethyleneoxy and acryloxy; acyloxy such as acetoxy, acryloxy and propionyloxy and amino Such as dimethylamino.

The number and average molecular weight of the segments in the copolymer are such that the weight ratio of polydiorganosiloxane segments to polyoxyalkylene segments in the copolymer is preferably from about 2.5 to about 4.0.

Suitable copolymers are commercially available under the tradename Belsil (RTM) from Wacker-Chemie GmbH, Geschaftsbereich S, Postfach D-8000 Munich 22 and from Th. Goldschmidt Ltd., Tego House, Victoria Road, Ruislip , Middlesex, HA40YL is a product with the trade name Abil (RTM). Particularly preferred for use herein are Abil WE09, Belsil (RTM) 6031, Abil (RTM) B88183 and DC3225C. The preferred silicones herein are the CTFA designation dimethicone copolyols.

The oil phase preferably contains from about 2% to about 25%, more preferably from about 5% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, of nonvolatile silicone.

Another desirable ingredient of the compositions herein is a humectant or mixture of humectants. The humectant or mixture of humectants herein is preferably present in an amount from about 0.1% to about 30%, more preferably from about 1% to about 25%, especially from about 10% to about 20%, by weight of the composition. Suitable humectants are selected from glycerin and have a viscosity of 300,000-1,100,000 cps at 25°C, a specific gravity of 1-1.2 g/ml (25°C), a pH of 5.0-5.5, a bound water content of 33-58% and 5-20% The amount of free water in polyglyceryl methacrylate lubricants.

The wetting agent can be at least partially mixed into the oil phase of the water-in-oil emulsion to form a heterogeneous oil-in-water, water-in-oil wetting agent dispersion. In these embodiments, the oil phase contains from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, by weight of the humectant, based on the composition. Wetting agents are suitably added to the oil phase in admixture with a particulate lipophilic or hydrophobic carrier material, for example a crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer, to be described later. Describe it in detail.

A suitable polyglyceryl methacrylate humectant is available from Guardian Chemical Company under the trade mark "Lubrajel". The "Lubrajel" class of products labeled "Lubrajel DV", "Lubrajel MS" and "Lubrajel CG" are preferred in the present invention. Gelling agents sold under these trade marks contain about 1% propylene glycol.

Other suitable humectants include sorbitol, panthenol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, alkoxylated glucose derivatives such as Glucam (RTM) E-20, hexanetriol, glucose ether, clear Sodium hyaluronate and mixtures thereof. Urea is also a suitable humectant for addition to the internal aqueous phase.

The panthenol moisturizing agent can be selected from D-panthenol ([R]-2,4-dihydroxy-N-[3-hydroxypropyl)]-3,3-dimethylbutanamide), DL- Panthenol, Calcium Pantothenate, Royal Jelly, Panthetine, Pantethein, Panthenyl Ethyl Ether, Panthenine, Pyridoxine, Panthenylactose, and Vitamin B Complex.

In a preferred embodiment, the humectant is selected from glycerin and sodium hyaluronate and mixtures thereof. Glycerol is 1,2,3-propanetriol and is a commercial product. Sodium hyaluronate, when present, is preferably incorporated in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 2% by weight. Mixtures are particularly valuable with a view to providing increased moisturization.

Another essential component here is at least one colorant of the iron oxide type. The iron oxide type pigments used herein may be coated or uncoated. Pigments can be treated with compounds such as amino acids, silicones, lecithin and ester oils. More preferred are colorants treated with silicones (polysiloxanes).

The total concentration of iron oxide colorants in the composition is from about 0.1 to about 25% by weight, preferably from about 2 to 15% by weight of the total composition. The specific concentration of colorant in the composition will depend to some extent on the particular mixture of colorants used in the base makeup or blush chosen to achieve the desired shade. Preferred compositions contain from about 2% to about 20% by weight titanium dioxide and most preferably from about 5% to about 10% by weight titanium dioxide.

Another basic component of the cosmetic composition of the present invention is TiO ₂ wrapped lamellar interference colorants. The interference colorant preferably comprises lamellae-type TiO ₂ -wrapped mica. The color of reflected light depends on the thickness of the coating film. Interfering pigments for use in the present invention comprise at least a portion of pigments having a thickness of _TiO from about 120 nm to about 160 nm or integer multiples thereof such that when the pigment is applied to the skin as a result of light reflection from the colorant laminae, The colorant itself takes on an overall green appearance. Preferred interference colorants in the compositions of the present invention are those supplied by Merck under the tradename Timiron, especially Timiron Super Green.

The _TiO2- coated lamellar interference pigments used herein comprise from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 5%, more preferably from about 0.5% to 3% by weight of the composition.

Other colorants suitable for use herein may be inorganic and/or organic. Also included within the term colorant are materials that have a low color or low sheen, such as matte finishes, and light-scattering agents. Examples of other suitable colorants are ferric acylglutamate oxides, ultramarine blue, D&C dyes, carmine and blends. Depending on the type of cosmetic composition, be it a primer or a blush, usually a mixture of colorants can be used.

The base color composition may also contain from about 0.1% to about 10% of at least one matte finish. Matte finishers work by covering skin imperfections and reducing shine. Such cosmetically acceptable inorganic agents (i.e., those included in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, Third Edition) such as spherical silica, hydrated silica, silicone-treated silica beads, mica, talc, polyethylene, Titanium dioxide, bentonite, konite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth, attapulgite, and the like can be used. Low-gloss pigments are especially suitable for matte finishes, such as barium sulfate-coated titanate mica (titanium dioxide-coated mica). Particularly preferred among the inorganic ingredients for use as matte finish low sheen pigments are talc, polyethylene, hydrated silica, kaolin, titanium dioxide and mixtures thereof. Materials suitable for use as light scattering agents can generally be described as spherical inorganic materials, such as spherical silica particles, having a particle size of less than about 100 microns, preferably about 5 to about 50 microns. Focusing on oil absorption and reducing shine, especially for products containing wetting agents, it is particularly preferred to have a specific surface area (N ₂ , BET) of at least 150 m ² /g (ASTM-D3663-91) and at least 0.5 ml/g (ASTM -D4222-91) pore volume spherical silica particles.

The remaining ingredients of the compositions of the present invention include deionized water. The composition preferably contains from about 15% to about 95%, more preferably from about 20% to about 80% (by weight) of an oil phase and from about 5% to about 85%, more preferably from about 20% to about 80% (by weight) of water Mutually.

The cosmetic compositions of the present invention may also contain a particulate crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer. This copolymer is specially formulated to reduce shine and control oil while helping to provide effective moisturizing benefits. The crosslinked hydrophobic polymer is preferably in the form of a copolymer lattice having at least one active ingredient uniformly dispersed and entrapped within the copolymer lattice. Alternatively, the hydrophobic polymer may be in the form of porous particles having a surface area ( _N2 -BET) in the range of about 50-500, preferably 100-300 ^m2 /g, and having the active ingredient absorbed therein.

The amount of crosslinked hydrophobic polymer used is from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.3% to about 3% by weight, and is preferably incorporated into the silicone-containing outer oil phase. The active ingredient may be one or more of a skin-friendly oil, a skin-friendly humectant, an emollient, a moisturizer, and a sunscreen, or a mixture thereof. The polymer material is in the form of a powder which is a mixed system of granules. The powder particle system forms a lattice comprising unit particles having an average diameter of less than about 1 micron, aggregates of fused unit particles having an average diameter in the range of about 20-100 microns, and aggregates of fused unit particles having an average diameter in the range of about 200-1200 microns Aggregate clusters of molten aggregate clusters.

其中X与Y的比为80∶20，R’为-CH₂CH₂-且R”为-(CH₂)₁₁CH₃。The powder materials of the present invention which can be used as carriers for active ingredients can be broadly described as a matrix of cross-linked "post-absorbed" hydrophobic polymers. The powder preferably has encapsulated and dispersed an active ingredient in solid, liquid or gaseous form. The lattice is granular and constitutes free-flowing dispersed solid particles when loaded with active material. The matrix may contain a predetermined amount of active material. The polymer structural formula is as follows:

wherein the ratio of X to Y is 80:20, R' is -CH ₂ CH ₂ - and R" is -(CH ₂ ) ₁₁ CH ₃ .

Hydrophobic polymers are highly crosslinked polymers, especially highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymers. This material is manufactured by Dow Corning Company (Midland. Michigan, USA) and sold under the trademark POLYTRAP (RTM). It is an ultra-light free-flowing white powder and the granules are capable of absorbing large quantities of lipophilic liquids and some hydrophilic liquids while maintaining free-flowing powder properties. The powder structure consists of a lattice of unit particles smaller than 1 micron fused into aggregates of 20-100 microns and the aggregates loosely grouped into large particles or clusters of size from about 200 to about 1200 microns. This polymer powder can contain up to 4 times its weight in liquid, emulsion, dispersion or molten solid.

Adsorption of the active substance onto the polymer powder can be achieved using a stainless steel mixing trough and a spoon in which the active substance is added to the powder and the active substance is gently incorporated into the polymer powder with a spoon. Low viscosity liquids can be absorbed by adding the liquid to a sealable container containing the polymer and rolling the mass until uniform. More complex mixing equipment such as ribbon mixers or double cone mixers can also be used. A preferred active ingredient for use herein is glycerol. The weight ratio of humectant to carrier is from about 1:4 to about 3:1.

Microsponges 5647 is also suitable as a highly crosslinked polymethacrylate copolymer. It takes the form of generally spherical cross-linked hydrophobic polymer particles with a pore size of 0.01 to about 0.05 μm and a surface area of 200-300 m ² /g. Furthermore, it is preferably loaded with the above-mentioned amount of humectant.

The compositions of the present invention may also contain a hydrophilic gelling agent, preferably in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 10%, more preferably from about 0.02% to about 2%, and especially from 0.02% to about 0.5%. The gelling agent preferably has a viscosity (1% aqueous solution, 20° C., Brookfield RVT) of at least about 4000 mPa·S, more preferably at least about 10,000 mPa·S and especially at least 50,000 mPa·S.

Suitable hydrophilic gelling agents can generally be described as water-soluble or colloidal water-soluble polymers, and include cellulose ethers (e.g., hydroxyethylcellulose, methylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose), polyethylene Pyrrolidone, polyvinyl alcohol, polyquaternium-10, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar gum, and synthetic biopolymer gum.

Acrylic acid/ethyl acrylate copolymers and carboxyvinyl polymers sold under the trademark Carbopol resins by the B.F. Goodrich Company are among suitable hydrophilic gelling agents. These resins consist primarily of colloidal water-soluble polyalkenyl polyether cross-linked acrylic polymers with 0.75% to 2.00% of cross-linking agents such as polyallyl sucrose or polyallyl pentaerythritol cross-linked. Examples include Carbopol 934, Carbopol 940, Carbopol 950, Carbopol 980, Carbopol 951 and Carbopol 981. Carbopol 934 is a water soluble polymer of acrylic acid crosslinked with about 1% polyallyl sucrose ether having an average of about 5.8 allyl groups per sucrose molecule. Also suitable for use herein are hydrophobically modified cross-linked acrylic polymers which are amphiphilic and available under the tradenames Carbopol 1382, Carbopol 1342 and Pemulen TR-1 (CTFA name: Acrylates/10-30 Allyl AcrylateCrosspolymer) is sold. Mixtures of polyalkenyl polyether crosslinked acrylic polymers and hydrophobically modified crosslinked acrylic polymers are also suitable for use herein. The gelling agents herein are particularly advantageous in providing excellent room temperature and elevated temperature stability.

Neutralizing agents suitable for neutralizing the acidic groups comprising the hydrophilic gelling agents herein include sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, ammonium hydroxide, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine.

The cosmetic compositions herein may additionally contain emollients. Emollients suitable for the compositions of the present invention include natural and synthetic oils selected from mineral, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acid esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycols and polyalkylene glycols Ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof.

Emollients suitable for use herein include, for example, optionally hydroxy-substituted C ₈ -C ₅₀ unsaturated fatty acids and their esters, C ₁ -C ₂₄ esters of C ₈ -C ₃₀ saturated fatty acids such as isopropyl myristate, palmitic acid Cetyl esters and octyl lauryl myristate (Wickenol 142), beeswax, saturated and unsaturated fatty alcohols such as behenyl alcohol and cetyl alcohol, hydrocarbons such as mineral oil, petroleum and isotriaxane, Fatty sorbitan esters (see U.S. Patent 3,988,255 issued to Seiden on October 26, 1976), lanolin and lanolin derivatives such as lanolin alcohol, ethoxylated, hydroxylated and acetylated lanolin, cholesterol and its derivatives, animal and vegetable triglycerides such as almond oil, peanut oil, wheat germ oil, linseed oil, jojoba oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, palm nut oil, mastic pistachio oil, sesame oil, rapeseed oil, Juniper, corn, peach kernel, poppyseed, pine, castor, soybean, avocado, safflower, coconut, hazelnut, olive, grapeseed, and sunflower seed oils C ₁ -C ₂₄ esters of polyacids and trimer acids such as diisopropyl dimer, diisostearyl malate, diisostearyl dimer and triisostearyl trimer.

Preferred emollients are selected from the group consisting of cetearyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, cetyl caprylate, cetyl acetate, trioctyl citrate, PEGisocetech-3 acetate, Dicaprylyl Maleate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate, Propylene Glycol Dicaprate, Glyceryl Tricaprylate, Glyceryl Tricaprate, Mineral Oil, PPG-20 Methyl Glucose Ether and Lanolin Alcohol and its mixture. These emollients can be used alone or in admixture and can be present in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 1% to about 30% (by weight) of the total composition, preferably from about 5% to about 15% (by weight). ) amount exists.

The composition may also contain other materials as desired, such as perfumes, fillers such as nylons, sunscreens, preservatives, proteins, antioxidants, chelating agents and water-in-oil emulsifiers.

Another optional ingredient of the cosmetic composition is one or more UV absorbers. UV absorbers, commonly referred to as sunscreens, may be present at a concentration of from about 1% to about 12% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The UV absorber preferably comprises from about 2% to about 8% by weight. More preferably, the UV absorber can be present in the composition at a level of from about 4% to about 6% by weight. Among the UV absorbers suitable for use herein, benzophenone-3, octyldimethyl PABA (Padimate O) and mixtures thereof are particularly preferred. Ultrafine titanium dioxide can also be used.

A chelating agent may also be added to the cosmetic composition. Chelating agents are preferably present in the composition at a level of from about 0.02% to about 0.10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Chelating agents are preferably present at a concentration of from about 0.03% to about 0.07% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. One of the chelating agents that can be included in the composition is trisodium edetate.

Another optional but preferred ingredient of the base color composition is one or more preservatives. The preservative concentration in the base color composition is from about 0.2% to about 0.8% by weight, preferably from about 0.4% to about 0.6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Preservatives suitable for use herein include diazolyl urea, methyl and ethyl parabens and mixtures thereof.

Another optional but preferred ingredient of the base color composition is a sebum spreader. Sebum spreaders are present in an amount of from about 0.01% to about 5% by weight of the composition. A preferred sebum spreader is sodium C ₈ -C ₁₆ isoalkyl succinyl lactoglobulin sulfonate (Biopol (RTM) OE).

Lower (C ₁ -C ₆ ) alcohols may also be present in the base pigments of the present invention in an amount from about 0.5% to about 10% by weight of the composition. Lower alcohols suitable for use herein include ethanol, hexylene glycol, butylene glycol, propanol and propylene glycol, with ethanol being preferred.

The cosmetic composition of the present invention can be in the form of a primer, a blush, a concealer, a pressing powder, etc., preferably as a primer and a blush.

The following table is provided to illustrate the cosmetic compositions of the present invention. example

I I II II III IV V V VI VII VIII

Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt

% % % % % % % A. Sixteen ester 2.00 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Drame Siliconxane 8.574 12.25 12.0 12.0 8.57 8.57 15.58

Cyclomethicone/

Dimethicone Copolyol (90:10) 17.16 15.0 20.0 5.0 8.0 13.0 17.16 12.5

Propylparaben 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25 0.25

Laureth-7 0.5 0.5 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.5

Dioctyl maleate 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Dimethicone 0.0 0.0 0.0 3.0 5.0 10.0 0.0 0.0

Benzophenone-3 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 2.0 0.0 0.0

Propylene Glycol 0.5 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Dicaprylate/

Dicaprate 0.0 0.0 0.0 5.0 0.0 10.0 0.0 0.0

b.

Titanium dioxide 8.25 6.0 1.5 6.0 8.0 20.0 9.0 7.0 Titanium dioxide treated (aluminum hydroxide, stearic acid) 0.25 0.5 3.0 0.25 0.25 0.0 0.25

Mica titanate 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.25 1.0 0.0 0.1 0.1

Talc 3.387 4.5 6.0 0.7 0.7 0.7 3.387 4.0

Nylon 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.5 0.0 0.0 0.0

Timiron Super 2.0 2.0 3.0 2.0 0.1 2.0 0.5 2.0

Green instance I I II II III IV V V VI VII VIII

Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt

% % % % % % % % % % C. Cyclomethicone/Dimethicone Copolyol (90:10) 1.858 1.5 1.85 5.0 1.0 1.8 1.0

Acrylate Copolymer 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 1.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Acrylate Copolymer

(with glycerin) 1.0 0.0 6.0 1.0 0.0 1.0 1.0 0.0

d.

Iron oxide yellow 1.2 1.2 0.6 0.4 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2

Iron Oxide Red 0.49 0.6 0.6 0.49 0.49 0.2 0.6 0.42

Iron oxide black 0.16 0.1 0.24 0.1 0.1 0.24 0.24 0.22

Ultramarine 0.0 0.00 0.00 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0

Dragon methalposiline 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.68 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 silicon (SPHERON P1500) 3.0-6.0-0.1 --- 0.0 Silicon (SPHERON L1500) 0.0 0.0-0.1 0.5 0.5e. Synthetic wax 0.1. 0.5 0.5 0.1------ 0.1 Two-alkane Twenty Estein 0.3 --- 0.3 0.0 0.3 0.3 0.3 Harm acid 0.0--------- 2.5 0.0 palm acid 0.0----- - -- -- -- 2.5 -- 0.0 instance I II II III IV V V VI VII VIII

Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt

% % % % % % % Per. Trihydroxyl hard fat 0.3 0.3 1.5 1.5----- 0.3 Drame Siliconoxane 1.0 4.0 ---- 4.0 4.0 1.0 beeswax 1.5 1.2-1.3 -- -- 0.0Abil WEO9 -- -- -- 3.0 -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 0.0 Palm Oil -- -- -- -- -- -- -- -- 4 -- 0 -- 0 -- (20∶80) 0.5 1.5 1.8 1.5 10.0 3.0 3.0 0.0

G.

Brasilyl Ethylene Glycol 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05

BHT 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05 0.05H. Deionized water ------ ------ ------ up to 100 ------ ------ --- ------- Portal hydroxybenzoate 0.12 0.15 0.15 0.12 0.12 0.12 0.15 0.12 propane di diicol 8.0 0.0 0.0 1.75 8.00 0.0 0.0 sodium sodium 2.0 1.4 0.5 2.0 2.0 2.0 sodium dihydrogen 0.3 0.3 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.3 0.8 0.3 Glycerin 0.0 15.0 10.0 5.0 6.5 3.0 3.0 10.0 Tethamine Tisone 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 Tisanhine 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0BIP OE-0.5----- 0.5-0.0 ethanol-6 ------ 2-0.0 instance II III IV VII VII VIII

Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt Wt

% % % % % % % Per pistachinyl-2-2-2-0.0 hydroxyetlonin 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 sunscreen 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0 0.0 0.0 hyaluronic acid Sodium 0.0 0.05 0.1 0.0 0.0 0.2 0.0i. Remove ion water 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 10.0 --- 0.0 magnesium aluminum------------- 0.0j. 0.0 0.0 0.0 Synthetic biological polymerization 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0 0.0k essential oil 0.0 ----- 0.20 ----- 0.0 aroma 0.0 0.25-0.20 ----- 0.0 Vitamin A 0.05--- ------- 0.0 palmate 0.0 0.05------------- 0.0L. Aloe vera 0.0 0.0 3.0------- 0.0 spring yellow chrysanthemum extract 0.0 0.0 0.1- - -- -- -- -- -- 0.0

The ingredients listed in Table 1 have been divided into groups and the ingredients of each group were mixed together before being added to the ingredients of the remaining groups according to the procedure set forth below.

In the first step, the mixture of Phase A ingredients is shear mixed and stirred for about 5 minutes until homogeneous. Under high shear mixing, gradually add the material of phase B to A and mix for 35 minutes to a dispersed state.

Slowly add Phase C and then Phase D ingredients to the mixture of Phases A and B with high shear mixing until dispersed. At this point the silica was added and allowed to disperse into the mixture.

Add Phase E ingredients to the resulting batch, which is then heated to 84°C and mixed until dispersed. Cool its container to 45°C and add premixed phase F. The resulting batch was mixed until homogeneous. The mixture was cooled to 30°C and phase G was added.

Make Phase H premix by mixing all ingredients until fully dispersed. Add the Phase H premix in small amounts to the batch mixture at 30°C with high shear agitation, making sure there is no excess water on the surface. The mixture was then mixed for 15 minutes. Phases I, J, K and L are added last.

The resulting cosmetic composition is ready for packaging.

The cosmetic compositions of the Examples exhibit improved moisturization, applicability, skin feel and appearance, and have tone-correct properties.

Claims (25)

1. A cosmetic composition in the form of a water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion comprising: a) from about 1% to about 50% by weight of a silicone oil selected from the group consisting of volatile and non-volatile silicones and mixtures thereof, b) optional wetting agents not exceeding about 30% by weight, c) from about 0.1% to about 25% by weight of at least one encapsulated or unencapsulated iron oxide pigment, and d) From about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of TiO2 _{- wrapped} lamellar-type interference colorant, having a _TiO2 layer of about 120nm to about 160nm thick or an integer multiple thereof. 2. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein the lamellar interference colorant is mica. 3. A cosmetic composition according to claim 1 or 2 comprising from about 0.1% to about 30% by weight of a humectant. 4. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 or 3, wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of cyclic polyorganosiloxanes having a viscosity of less than about 10 centistokes at 25° C. and silicones having a viscosity of less than about 5 centistokes at 25° C. Type polyorganosiloxanes and mixtures thereof. 5. The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein the volatile silicone oil is selected from the group consisting of cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes containing about 3 to about 9 silicon atoms, preferably about 4 to about 5 silicon atoms, and cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes containing about 3 Linear polydimethylsiloxanes with up to about 9 silicon atoms. 6. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the non-volatile silicone oil comprises a polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer containing at least one polydiorganosiloxane segment and at least one polyoxyalkylene segment. 7. A cosmetic composition according to claim 6, wherein the polydiorganosiloxane-polyoxyalkylene copolymer is a dimethicone copolyol. 8. The cosmetic composition of claim 3 wherein the humectant is selected from the group consisting of glycerin and polyglycerylmethacrylate lubricants having a viscosity of about 300,000 to 1,100,000 cps at 25°C, and mixtures thereof. 9. A cosmetic composition according to claim 8, wherein the humectant is glycerin. 10. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, wherein the silicone oil comprises from about 2% to about 25%, preferably from about 5% to about 15%, by weight of the composition, of non-volatile silicone oil. 11. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the pigment of iron oxide type is silicone-treated. 12. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 comprising from about 5% to about 25% by weight of the composition of a humectant. 13. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12 additionally comprising from about 0.1% to about 10% by weight of a crosslinked hydrophobic acrylate or methacrylate copolymer. 14. A cosmetic composition according to claim 13, wherein the cross-linked hydrophobic copolymer is in the form of a lattice, wherein at least one active ingredient is uniformly dispersed and embedded in the copolymer lattice structure, the active ingredient being selected from the group consisting of skin compatible Oils, skin compatible humectants, emollients, humectants and sunscreens. 15. Cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein the active ingredient is selected from humectants, preferably glycerol. 16. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, additionally containing about 0.1% to 10% by weight of a matte finish selected from the group consisting of silica, hydrated silica, mica, talc, polyethylene, titanium dioxide, bentonite, Hectorite, kaolin, chalk, diatomaceous earth and attapulgite and mixtures thereof. 17. A cosmetic composition according to claim 16, wherein the matte finish is selected from spherical silica or hydrated silica. 18. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 17, additionally containing about 1% to about 15% by weight of natural or synthetic oil emollients selected from mineral oils, vegetable and animal oils, fats and waxes, fatty acids Esters, fatty alcohols, alkylene glycol and polyalkylene glycol ethers and esters, fatty acids and mixtures thereof. 19. The cosmetic composition according to claim 18, wherein the emollient is selected from the group consisting of isopropyl palmitate, isopropyl isostearate, dioctyl maleate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprate, Glyceryl caprylate, glyceryl tricaprate, isotriadsane, mineral oil, cetearyl isononanoate and lanolin alcohol and mixtures thereof. 20. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 19, wherein the oily phase contains from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably from about 0.1% to about 3%, by weight of the composition of a humectant. 21. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 20 comprising from about 15% to about 95%, preferably from about 20% to about 60%, by weight of an oily phase, and from about 5% to about 35%, preferably about 40% to about 80% by weight of the aqueous phase. 22. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21, additionally comprising one or more UV absorbers. 23. A cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 22, wherein the humectant is selected from glycerin and sodium hyaluronate and mixtures thereof. 24. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 23, additionally comprising a C ₁ -C ₆ alcohol, preferably ethanol. 25. Cosmetic composition according to any one of claims 1 to 24, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion.