CN114836998A - 一种二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺 - Google Patents
一种二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明公开一种二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，先将低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维按比例混纺，混纺后的纱线与氨纶纱线按比例交织，得到原布坯；然后将原布坯退卷、预定型、染色、烘干、定型得到二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料。本发明方案通过合理的混纺选材与比例搭配，充分发挥了二醋酸纤维的优势同时规避二醋酸纤维面料的部分缺点，如强力低、易折皱擦伤等等。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于针织布料制造技术领域，具体涉及一种二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺。
背景技术
二醋酸纤维成分的面料具有丝滑的手感、清爽透气、易于打理，类似真丝的光泽及悬垂感等奢华的品质，拥有很高的服用价值。但是二醋酸纤维强力低、易折皱擦伤、不耐高温和碱性条件、上染得色率不高及色牢度差等问题，限制其至今未能在服装市场广泛应用。
发明内容
发明目的：本发明目的在于针对现有技术的不足，提供一种强力高、染色加工过程不伤害二醋酸纤维、色牢度高的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺。
技术方案：本发明所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，先将低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维按比例混纺，混纺后的纱线与氨纶纱线按比例交织，得到原布坯；然后将原布坯退卷、预定型、染色、烘干、定型得到二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料。
具体包括如下步骤：
(1)织布：将低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维按比例混纺，混纺后的纱线与氨纶纱线按比例交织，得到原布坯；
(2)预定型：在170-185℃下，定型机送布行机速度保持30m/min，对布料进行预定型；
(3)前处理：前处理体系中加入1g/L的碱油TP80和1g/L的去油剂WD071D，设定浴比为1：12，入布前水温设置为35-45℃，梯度升温至90℃，前处理20-25min；
(4)染色：将布料投入染缸，在35-45℃条件下向染色体系中加入柔软剂、匀染剂、分散剂、醋酸HAC各1g/L，然后分批加入分散染料，梯度升温，先以1℃/min的速度升温至70℃，维持10-15min，然后以1℃/min的速度升温至80℃，然后以1.5℃/min的速度升温至95℃，维持30-40min，然后以2℃/min的速度降温至50-55℃，染色结束后放水；
(5)后处理：向体系中进35-45℃的水并加入Na2CO3和CH4N2O2S各1g/L，然后升温至80℃下清洗10-20min，放水；然后放入清水80℃下清洗10-20min，放水；最后20-25℃水中加入醋酸HAC 0.3g/l运行10min后放水出布；
(6)成品：先将布料在130℃下，以30m/min的运行速度烘干；在130℃下柔软剂条件下以30m/min的运行速度定型得到成品。
步骤(4)中所述柔软剂为TF-208L、匀染剂为TF215、分散剂为DM2961；
步骤(6)中设定定型时间为30s-60s。
进一步地，作为较优实施方式，所述低温可染的涤纶短纤维是由对苯二甲酸、乙二醇、间苯二甲酸磺酸钠、聚乙二醇四种单体缩聚得到的共聚物；
二醋酸短纤维具体为：木材加工的浆粕，经乙酰化处理后使纤维素中74％～92％的羟基与醋酐反应生成得到二醋酸纤维素。
所述涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维的混纺比例为(70-99):(30-1)。
有益效果：(1)本发明方案通过合理的混纺选材与比例搭配，充分发挥了二醋酸纤维的优势，同时混纺中加入改性涤纶短纤弥补了二醋酸短纤维的缺点，如强力低、易折皱擦伤等；(2)本发明方案中混纺的低温可染涤纶使用分散染料95度可以上染，此温度也适合分散染料上染二醋酸短纤维，避免了高温染色对二醋酸短纤维优良性能的伤害；(3)本发明方案克服二醋酸短纤维面料染整加工过程的难题，如使用浴中柔软剂(TF208L:1g/L)减少折皱和擦伤，筛选适用的分散染料及染色工艺，提高织物得色率及色牢度，同时避免纤维受到破坏；(4)本方案在选定混纺纱线和染色工序的基础上，优选130℃、30s-60s的定型工艺，保证面料的平整、手感、和光泽。
附图说明
图1为本发明实施例1方案中染色工艺的流程图。
具体实施方式
下面通过实施例对本发明技术方案进行详细说明，但是本发明的保护范围不局限于所述实施例。
实施例1：原料采用低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤混纺比例为70：30，考虑到低温可染的涤纶短纤维和二醋酸纤维都不耐高温，选择搭配晓星H550低温氨纶交织，本实施例中所采用的低温可染的涤纶短纤维源自中国石化仪征化纤有限责任公司，具体为常压易染阳离子涤纶纤维，采用代码ECDP；以上材料针织得到的布种：40S/1ECDP/CelluloseDi-Acetate 70/30SIRO COMPACT+30D H550 SPANDEX拉架平纹，得到原布坯；本实施例中低温可染的涤纶短纤维是由对苯二甲酸、乙二醇、间苯二甲酸磺酸钠、聚乙二醇四种单体缩聚得到的共聚物；二醋酸短纤维具体为：木材加工的浆粕，经乙酰化处理后使纤维素中74％～92％的羟基与醋酐反应生成得到二醋酸纤维素；
对原布坯进行面料染整加工流程：退卷、预定型、染色、烘干、定型得到本实施例布料。
(1)预定型：180℃下，以30m/min的速度进行预定型，时间控制在45s，保证氨纶稳定的同时对ECDP和二醋酸纤维没有损伤；
(2)前处理：浴比选定1：12，入布前进温水40℃，碱油TP80 1g/L，去油剂WD071D1g/L，90℃运行20min放水；
(3)染色：进温水40℃，浴中柔软剂TF-208L、匀染剂TF215、分散剂DM2961、醋酸HAC各1g/L，染料选用安诺可隆FX系列，升温工艺参照附图1，可同时兼顾低温可染的涤纶短纤维和二醋酸上色，染色结束后放水；
(4)后处理：重新进温水40℃做还原清洗，加入Na2CO3、CH4N2O2S各1g/L 80℃下维持15min后放水，然后入清水升温至80℃清洗15min放水，最后冷水10-25℃下加入0.3g/L的HAC清洗运行10min后放水出布；
(5)烘干：先将布料在130℃下，以30m/min的运行速度烘干；在130℃下柔软剂条件下以30m/min的运行速度定型45s得到成品。
对本实施例中得到的布料进行性能检测，结果如表1所示：
表1、实施例1二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料性能检测结果：
表1中所述对比样是选用相同混纺比例的常规涤纶与二醋酸纤维混纺纱织胚布，并经过分散染料130度上染常规涤纶的染色加工条件生产的面料。
以上对比检测结果，本实施例得到的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的色牢度优于市场上同类产品；目测检查实施例面料中两种纤维的同色性好，而对比样中二醋酸纤维和涤纶纤维存在明显色差；实施例面料强度优于对比样。
如上所述，尽管参照特定的优选实施例已经表示和表述了本发明，但其不得解释为对本发明自身的限制。在不脱离所附权利要求定义的本发明的精神和范围前提下，可对其在形式上和细节上作出各种变化。
Claims (6)
1.一种二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：先将低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维按比例混纺，混纺后的纱线与氨纶纱线按比例交织，得到原布坯；然后将原布坯退卷、预定型、染色、烘干、定型得到二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料。
2.根据权利要求1所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于具体包括如下步骤：
(1)织布：将低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维按比例混纺，混纺后的纱线与氨纶纱线按比例交织，得到原布坯；
(2)预定型：在170-185℃下，定型机进布速度保持30m/min，对布料进行预定型；
(3)前处理：前处理体系中加入1g/L的碱油TP80和1g/L的去油剂WD071D，设定浴比为1：12，入布前水温设置为35-45℃，梯度升温至90℃，前处理20-25min；
(4)染色：将布料投入染缸，在35-45℃条件下向染色体系中加入柔软剂、匀染剂、分散剂、醋酸HAC各1g/L，然后分批加入分散染料，梯度升温，先以1℃/min的速度升温至70℃，维持10-15min，然后以1℃/min的速度升温至80℃，然后以1.5℃/min的速度升温至95℃，维持30-40min，然后以2℃/min的速度降温至50-55℃，染色结束后放水；
(5)后处理：向体系中进35-45℃的水并加入Na2CO3和CH4N2O2S各1g/L，然后升温至80℃下清洗10-20min，放水；然后放入清水80℃下清洗10-20min，放水；最后20-25℃水中加入醋酸HAC 0.3g/l运行10min后放水出布；
(6)成品：先将布料在130℃下，以30m/min的运行速度烘干；在130℃下柔软剂条件下以30m/min的运行速度定型得到成品。
3.根据权利要求2所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：步骤(4)中所述柔软剂为TF-208L、匀染剂为TF215、分散剂为DM2961。
4.根据权利要求3所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：步骤(6)中设定定型时间为30s-60s。
5.根据权利要求4所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：所述低温可染的涤纶短纤维是由对苯二甲酸、乙二醇、间苯二甲酸磺酸钠、聚乙二醇四种单体缩聚得到的共聚物；
二醋酸短纤维具体为：木材加工的浆粕，经乙酰化处理后使纤维素中74％～92％的羟基与醋酐反应生成得到二醋酸纤维素。
6.根据权利要求5所述的二醋酸短纤混纺针织面料的加工工艺，其特征在于：所述低温可染的涤纶短纤维与二醋酸短纤维的混纺比例为70～99:30～1。
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