CN114732756B

CN114732756B - Bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and preparation method thereof

Info

Publication number: CN114732756B
Application number: CN202210091689.8A
Authority: CN
Inventors: 岑宗晓; 王丁
Original assignee: Guangzhou Luanying Cosmetics Co ltd
Current assignee: Guangzhou Luanying Cosmetics Co ltd
Priority date: 2022-01-26
Filing date: 2022-01-26
Publication date: 2023-12-29
Anticipated expiration: 2042-01-26
Also published as: CN114732756A

Abstract

The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following preparation raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-30% of emulsifying agent, 20-55% of softening agent, 0.1-0.2% of antioxidant, 1-1.5% of stabilizer, 15-25% of polyalcohol compound, 0.5-1.5% of functional auxiliary agent and 100% of water. According to the invention, through the synergistic effect of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate, a good stabilizing effect is achieved, the use amount of PEG-type surfactant is reduced, the irritation to facial skin is reduced, the addition amount of an oil phase and a water phase can be controlled in a wider range, the good effect of the product can be still maintained, the product is suitable for large-scale industrial production, meanwhile, the cleansing capability is strong, the use is not greasy, a large amount of clear water is not required to wash, and the use is convenient.

Description

Bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and preparation method thereof

Technical Field

The invention relates to a bicontinuous cleansing oil, relates to A61K, and particularly relates to the field of cosmetic disposables.

Background

With the pursuit of people for beauty, various cosmetics layers of the face, the lips and the eyes are endless, as the skin can be metabolized to continuously secrete grease in the course of one day, in order to increase the fitting effect of the cosmetics and the skin, the cosmetics are increasingly changed into grease products, the cosmetics cannot be cleaned by using simple water washing, partial parts of the skin are tender and cannot be rubbed with great force, so that the face cosmetics are required to be cleaned by using the makeup removal products with good makeup removal effect, the makeup removal effect of the water-based makeup removal products on the market is poor at present, the oil makeup removal products are greasy in use feeling, and the cosmetics are required to be cleaned by a large amount of water in the later period, so that the use is inconvenient.

Chinese patent No. 202010650132.4 discloses a cleansing oil which is emulsified to form multiple structure emulsion (W/O/W) and a preparation method thereof, wherein the cleansing oil is emulsified to form multiple structures by meeting water, oil-soluble makeup is wrapped in an intermediate phase, the risk that common cleansing oil is easy to break emulsion to cause grease residue and acne is overcome, but an oil phase is used as a continuous phase, so that the cleansing oil has greasy skin feel and poor use feeling when being used on the face. Chinese patent No. 201110132931.3 discloses a mild cleansing oil with skin care effect and a preparation method thereof, which can achieve the effects of moistening skin and preserving moisture while cleaning makeup by introducing plant essential oil, but the adopted emulsifying agent has strong irritation, and can damage the surface barrier of the skin after long-term use, so that the skin is oversensitive.

Disclosure of Invention

In order to reduce irritation to facial skin and improve the use feeling of the makeup removing product, the first aspect of the invention provides a bicontinuous makeup removing oil, which is prepared from the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-30% of emulsifying agent, 20-55% of softening agent, 0.1-0.2% of antioxidant, 1-1.5% of stabilizer, 15-25% of polyalcohol compound, 0.5-1.5% of functional auxiliary agent and 100% of water.

As a preferred embodiment, the preparation raw materials comprise, in weight percent: 9.5-26% of emulsifying agent, 23-53% of softening agent, 0.1-0.2% of antioxidant, 1-1.3% of stabilizing agent, 15-25% of polyalcohol compound, 0.6-1% of functional auxiliary agent and water which is added to 100%.

The preparation raw materials comprise the following components in percentage by weight: 16% of emulsifying agent, 38% of softening agent, 0.1% of antioxidant, 1.1% of stabilizing agent, 20% of polyalcohol compound, 0.6% of functional auxiliary agent and 100% of water.

As a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier comprises polyethylene glycol modified fatty acid glycerides, polyglycerol fatty acid esters, polyether modified fatty acid esters.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyethylene glycol in the polyethylene glycol-modified fatty acid glyceride has a degree of polymerization of 5 to 20.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyethylene glycol modified fatty acid glyceride is PEG-20 glycerol isostearate.

As a preferred embodiment, the polymerization degree of glycerin in the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is 2 to 10.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyglyceryl fatty acid ester is a combination of polyglyceryl-10 diisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 oleate, polyglyceryl-10 laurate.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyglycerin fatty acid ester is selected from one or a combination of several of polyglycerin lunar silicate, polyglycerin stearic acid ester, polyglycerin isostearic acid ester, polyglycerin cocoate, polyglycerin palmitate, and polyglycerin myristate.

As a preferred embodiment, the degree of polymerization of the polyether in the polyether-modified fatty acid ester is 25 to 35, and preferably, the polyether-modified fatty acid ester is an alcohol polyether-modified fatty acid ester.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyether modified fatty acid ester is sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate.

As a preferred embodiment, the emulsifier is a combination of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate.

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate is (5-15): (2-4): (0.5-1): (1-3): (1-3).

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate is 6:4:1:2.5:2.5.

the applicant finds that the five emulsifying agents of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate can achieve better stabilizing effect by adopting smaller adding amount in the experimental process, and the possible reasons are hypothesized to be: the nonionic surfactants of polyester and polyether have good synergistic effect, the nonionic surfactants are dispersed into the water phase and the oil phase, the oil phase and the water phase are continuous phases, a large number of micro emulsion particles are formed under a microscopic state, the emulsifier is distributed on an oil-water interface, the stability is higher, the surfactants of different types are arranged in a crossed manner, the surface tension between the oil-water interfaces is reduced, the interface energy is reduced, the stability of the oil-water interface is improved, and the layering of a system is avoided. A large amount of PEG-type emulsifying agent is used in the cleansing products currently used in the market, so that the cleansing products have certain irritation to skin, and the skin surface barrier is easily damaged after deep cleansing is carried out for a long time, so that sensitive skin is formed. The PEG type emulsifier and other ionic emulsifiers are used for synergistic effect, so that the irritation of the cleansing product to the skin surface is reduced, the skin-care product has higher fit degree with the skin, the skin feel is fine and smooth, and the use feeling is better.

In a preferred embodiment, the emollient is one or a combination of several selected from the group consisting of fatty oil type emollients, fatty acid ester type emollients, polyolefin type emollients, glyceride type emollients, fatty alcohol type emollients, and silicone type emollients.

As a preferred embodiment, the emollient comprises fatty acid ester type emollient, polyolefin type emollient and fatty alcohol type emollient, preferably, the fatty acid ester type emollient is selected from one or a combination of several of laurate, palmitoleic acid ester, oleate and octyl octanoate.

In a preferred embodiment, the fatty alcohol type emollient is one or a combination of several selected from laurinol, cetyl alcohol, oleyl alcohol and ethyl decyl alcohol.

As a preferred embodiment, the emollient is a combination of hydrogenated polysunflower, ethylhexyl palmitate and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol.

As a preferred embodiment, the hydrogenated polysunflower alkene, ethylhexyl palmitate and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol are present in a weight ratio of (3-8): (15-30): (5-15).

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of hydrogenated polysunflower alkene, ethylhexyl palmitate and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol is 3:30:5.

the applicant found in the experimental process that hydrogenated polysunflower, ethylhexyl palmitate and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol were used as emollients, which improved the makeup removal performance while also providing moisturizing benefits to the skin, presumably because: the softener and water form a bicontinuous phase, and exist as micro emulsion particles in a microscopic state, and can enter pores to clear away deep makeup, so that the makeup removing effect is improved, and the hydrogenated polydecene can increase the stability of the makeup removing oil, so that the makeup removing oil has stable performance at high temperature under illumination, and the problem of color change and layering of the makeup removing oil is avoided.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyhydric alcohol compound is selected from one or a combination of several of glycerol, butanediol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, and sorbitol.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyol compound is a combination of propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

As a preferred embodiment, the polyol compound is a combination of DPG dipropylene glycol and 1, 3-butanediol, preferably, the weight ratio of DPG dipropylene glycol to 1, 3-butanediol is (5-10): (10-15); further preferably, the weight ratio of DPG dipropylene glycol to 1, 3-butanediol is 8:12.

the applicant found during the experiment that DPG dipropylene glycol and 1, 3-butanediol were used as the polyol compounds, and (5-10): the weight ratio of (10-15) can alleviate the problem of skin tightness after makeup removal, and is suspected to be the possible reason: the synergistic effect of DPG dipropylene glycol and 1, 3-butanediol not only can lock skin moisture, but also can absorb moisture in the environment to achieve the effects of moisturizing and moisturizing, and only can remove grease on the surface of the skin while removing makeup, so that the loss of water molecules is reduced, and the tightening feeling of the skin is relieved.

As a preferred embodiment, the stabilizer is a combination of dichlorobenzyl alcohol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone.

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of dichlorobenzyl alcohol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone is 0.1:0.5:0.5.

as a preferred embodiment, the functional auxiliary is a combination of herbal anti-allergic liquid and bergamot without sensitization.

As a preferred embodiment, the weight ratio of the herbal anti-allergic liquid to the bergamot is (0.5-1): 0.1, and more preferably, the weight ratio of the herbal anti-allergic liquid to the bergamot having no sensitization is 0.5: 0.1.

The second aspect of the invention provides a preparation method of bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, which comprises the following steps:

(1) Mixing the emulsifier, the softener and the antioxidant, stirring and heating to 50-65 ℃, and stirring for 20-40min to form a mixture A;

(2) Mixing polyalcohol compounds and stabilizer, stirring, heating to 50-65deg.C, stirring for 20-40min to form mixture B;

(3) Adding the mixture B into the mixture A, cooling to 25-35 ℃, fully stirring, and adding functional auxiliary agents;

(4) And finally, slowly adding water at the stirring speed of 180-220r/min, and stirring for 20-40min to obtain the water-based paint.

Compared with the prior art, the invention has the following beneficial effects:

(1) According to the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil, the PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, the polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, the polyglycerol-2 oleate, the polyglycerol-10 laurate and the sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate are adopted to act synergistically, so that a good stabilizing effect is achieved, the use amount of a PEG-type surfactant is reduced, and the irritation to facial skin is reduced.

(2) The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil disclosed by the invention adopts PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate (5-15): (2-4): (0.5-1): (1-3): the weight ratio of (1-3) can control the addition amount of the oil phase and the water phase within a wider range, can still keep the good effect of the product, and is suitable for large-scale industrial production.

(3) The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil disclosed by the invention is added with the water phase at the stirring rate of 200r/min to form a bicontinuous product state of the water phase and the oil phase, and has low surface energy at an oil-water interface and good stability.

(4) The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil disclosed by the invention adopts the synergistic effect of hydrogenated polysunflower alkene, ethylhexyl palmitate and cetyl alcohol ethylhexyl ester as a softening agent, has a certain moisturizing effect on facial skin after cleansing the color cosmetics, and improves the use feeling.

(5) The bicontinuous cleansing oil is a transparent product, and the formed microemulsion particles can enter pores to clean cleansing cream, so that the cleansing oil has the advantages of strong cleansing capability, good cleansing effect, non-greasy use feeling, no need of washing with a large amount of clear water and convenience in use.

Drawings

FIG. 1 shows the stability test results of example 1, showing the appearance of the test results at 35℃and 25℃and 4℃in this order from left to right.

Fig. 2 shows the makeup removing effect of the lipstick cosmetics, and the makeup removing oils of example 1 are sequentially arranged from left to right; the eventan clean color-time cleansing oil; birou deep clean and moist cleansing cream; picking up Yan Jieyan honey; haa astaxanthin water-sensitive cleansing oil.

Fig. 3 shows the makeup removing effect of the eyebrow pencil cosmetics, which is the makeup removing oil of example 1 in order from left to right; the eventan clean color-time cleansing oil; birou deep clean and moist cleansing cream; picking up Yan Jieyan honey; haa astaxanthin water-sensitive cleansing oil.

Detailed Description

The present invention will be specifically described below by way of examples. It is noted herein that the following examples are given solely for the purpose of further illustration and are not to be construed as limitations on the scope of the invention, as will be apparent to those skilled in the art in light of the foregoing disclosure.

In addition, the raw materials used are commercially available unless otherwise indicated.

Example 1

The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following preparation raw materials in percentage by weight: 16% of emulsifying agent, 38% of softening agent, 0.1% of antioxidant, 1.1% of stabilizing agent, 20% of polyalcohol compound, 0.6% of functional auxiliary agent and 100% of water.

The emulsifier is a combination of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate, and the weight ratio is 6:4:1:2.5:2.5. the PEG-20 glycerol isostearate was purchased from New Material technology Co., ltd; the polyglycerol-10 diisostearate is purchased from silver and American joint science and technology Co.Ltd in the Buddha; the polyglycerol-2 oleate is purchased from silver and American joint science and technology company of bergamot; the polyglycerol-10 laurate is purchased from silver and American joint science and technology company of bergamot; the sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate was purchased from King chemical Co., ltd.

The softening agent is hydrogenated polysunflower alkene, and the combination of ethylhexyl palmitate and cetyl alcohol ethylhexyl ester, and the weight ratio is 3:30:5. the hydrogenated polyvidene was purchased from King chemical Co., ltd.

The antioxidant is diethyl hexyl butylidene malonate&Caprylic/capric triglyceride, available from Merck KgaA company under the model numberST Liquid。

The polyalcohol compound is a combination of DPG dipropylene glycol and 1, 3-butanediol, and the weight ratio is 8:12.

The stabilizer is a combination of dichlorobenzyl alcohol, 1, 2-hexanediol and p-hydroxyacetophenone, and the weight ratio is 0.1:0.5:0.5.

the functional auxiliary agent is a combination of herbal anti-allergic liquid and non-photosensitive bergamot, and the weight ratio is 0.5:0.1, herbal antiallergic solution was purchased from Guangzhou Hongmu biotechnology Co., ltd, and non-light-sensitive bergamot was purchased from Paris aromatic medicine technology (Shanghai) Co.

The preparation method of the bicontinuous phase cleansing oil comprises the following steps:

(1) Mixing and stirring the emulsifier, the softener and the antioxidant, heating to 60 ℃, and stirring for 30min to form a mixture A;

(2) Mixing polyol compounds and stabilizer, stirring, heating to 60 ℃, and stirring for 30min to form a mixture B;

(3) Adding the mixture B into the mixture A, cooling to 30 ℃, fully stirring, and adding a functional auxiliary agent;

(4) And finally, slowly adding water under the stirring speed of 200r/min, and stirring for 30min to obtain the water-based paint.

Example 2

A bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof are provided, and the specific steps are the same as those of the embodiment 1, except that the emulsifier is a combination of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, PEG-7 glycerol cocoate and PEG-20 glycerol isostearate.

Example 3

The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil and the preparation method thereof are the same as that in the embodiment 1, and the specific steps are that the emulsifier is PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate, and the weight ratio is 4:5: 1.5:4:4.

example 4

A bicontinuous cleansing oil and a preparation method thereof, the specific steps of which are the same as those of the embodiment 1, are different in that the softening agent is a combination of diisopropyl sebacate, ethylhexyl tocopheryl and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol.

Performance testing

1. Stability: placing the sample in an environment of 35 ℃ for 14 days, and observing the appearance state of the sample; placing the sample in an environment of 25 ℃ for 14 days, and observing the appearance state of the sample; the sample was left in an environment of 4deg.C for 14 days, and the appearance state of the sample was observed, and the test results of example 1 are shown in FIG. 1, wherein the appearance states of the sample were 35 deg.C, 25deg.C, and 4deg.C in this order from left to right in FIG. 1.

2. Efficacy test: the bicontinuous phase makeup remover prepared in example 1 was compared with the makeup remover available on the market, and the makeup remover corresponds to lipstick in fig. 2 and eyebrow pencil in fig. 3. The cleansing oil of the example 1 is shown in the figures 2 and 3 from left to right; the eventan clean color-time cleansing oil; birou deep clean and moist cleansing cream; picking up Yan Jieyan honey; haa astaxanthin water-sensitive cleansing oil.

The stability test results are shown in Table 1, tested according to the above criteria.

TABLE 1

	35℃	25℃	4℃
				Example 1	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent
Example 2	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	The occurrence of insoluble impurities
				Example 3	The occurrence of insoluble impurities	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent
Example 4	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent	Clear and transparent

Claims

1. The bicontinuous phase cleansing oil is characterized by comprising the following preparation raw materials in percentage by weight: 9-30% of emulsifying agent, 20-55% of softening agent, 0.1-0.2% of antioxidant, 1-1.5% of stabilizer, 15-25% of polyalcohol compound, 0.5-1.5% of functional auxiliary agent and 100% of water;

the emulsifier is a combination of PEG-20 glycerol isostearate, polyglycerol-10 diisostearate, polyglycerol-2 oleate, polyglycerol-10 laurate and sorbitol polyether-30 tetraoleate;

the emollient is a combination of hydrogenated polysunflower, ethylhexyl palmitate and ethylhexyl cetyl alcohol.

2. The bicontinuous cleansing oil according to claim 1, wherein the polyhydric alcohol compound is one or a combination of several selected from glycerol, butylene glycol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, polyethylene glycol, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol, sorbitol.

3. The bicontinuous makeup remover according to claim 2, wherein the polyol compound is a combination of propylene glycol and butylene glycol.

4. A process for the preparation of a bicontinuous phase cleansing oil according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized by comprising the following steps: