CN109984957A - 一种美白祛斑面膜液及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种美白祛斑面膜液及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN109984957A CN109984957A CN201910308508.0A CN201910308508A CN109984957A CN 109984957 A CN109984957 A CN 109984957A CN 201910308508 A CN201910308508 A CN 201910308508A CN 109984957 A CN109984957 A CN 109984957A
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- China
- Prior art keywords
- sodium
- facial masks
- acid
- removing spots
- whitening
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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Classifications
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- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
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- A61K8/44—Aminocarboxylic acids or derivatives thereof, e.g. aminocarboxylic acids containing sulfur; Salts; Esters or N-acylated derivatives thereof
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
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Abstract
本发明公开了一种美白祛斑面膜液及其制备方法，该美白祛斑面膜液包括以下成分：传明酸、烟酰胺、肌肽、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、乳酸钠、甜菜碱、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸、增稠剂、EDTA二钠、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、防腐抗菌剂、多元醇和去离子水。该美白祛斑面膜液具有优秀的稳定性和皮肤兼容性，具有明显的美白效果，对皮肤温和，具有广阔的应用前景。
Description
技术领域
本发明涉及一种化妆品及其制备方法，更具体地说，本发明涉及一种美白祛斑面膜液及其制备方法。
背景技术
目前市面上的美白祛斑面膜种类很多，但由于产品成分的稳定性以及各种成分之间的相容性等问题，市面上的美白祛斑面膜液多为一种或两种美白祛斑成分配制，且因美白祛斑成分的物化特性导致稳定性差，因而功能单一且功效不稳定，对因生存环境的变化等各种外界因素所导致的皮肤黑色素增多或局部大量沉积的问题不能快速、有效的解决。例如，中国发明专利CN 1191057C所公开的一种祛斑芦荟美容护肤品，由于其仅含有美白祛斑面膜液冻干粉、熊果苷、维生素B3和尿囊素这少数几种有效活性成分，因此仅仅具有祛斑、祛痘和保湿的功效，无法治疗和改善复杂的皮肤问题。本发明是通过长期的经验总结与不断实践评价，在现有的美容护肤成分基础上，进行科学复配，以形成一种具有多重功效且功效显著的美白祛斑面膜液。
发明内容
本发明的目的在于提供一种具有快速、显著的美白祛斑功效的面膜液及其制备方法，以解决现有技术中存在的问题。
本发明所采用的技术方案：一种美白祛斑面膜液，按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸0.05％～2.00％，烟酰胺0.10％～5.00％，肌肽0.01％～1.00％，尿囊素0.05％～1.00％，甘草酸二钾0.05％～2.00％，葡聚糖0.01％～3.00％，泛醇0.05％～3.00％，乳酸钠0.05％～2.50％，甜菜碱0.05％～5.00％，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠0.05％～7.50％，羟乙基脲0.10％～5.00％，透明质酸钠0.01％～1.00％，聚谷氨酸0.01％～1.00％，增稠剂0.04％～5.00％，EDTA二钠0.01％～0.50％，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.01％～0.50％，防腐抗菌剂0.1％～5.00％，多元醇2.25％～20.00％，去离子水30.00％～97.00％。
作为较佳的实施例，按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸0.07％～1.50％，烟酰胺0.50％～3.00％，肌肽0.04％～0.08％，尿囊素0.06％～0.08％，甘草酸二钾0.07％～1.50％，葡聚糖0.05％～2.00％，泛醇1.00％～2.00％，乳酸钠1.00％～2.00％，甜菜碱2.00％～3.00％，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠3.00％～5.50％，羟乙基脲2.50％～3.50％，透明质酸钠0.05％～0.70％，聚谷氨酸0.50％～0.70％，增稠剂1.00％～3.00％，EDTA二钠0.10％～0.30％，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.10％～0.30％，防腐抗菌剂2.00％～4.00％，多元醇5.00％～15.00％，去离子水45.00％～60.00％。
作为较佳的实施例，按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸1.20％，烟酰胺2.00％，肌肽0.06％，尿囊素0.07％，甘草酸二钾1.00％，葡聚糖1.50％，泛醇1.50％，乳酸钠1.20％，甜菜碱2.50％，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠5.50％，羟乙基脲3.00％，透明质酸钠0.55％，聚谷氨酸0.600％，增稠剂3.00％，EDTA二钠0.20％，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.20％，防腐抗菌剂3.92％，多元醇13.00％，去离子水59.00％。
作为较佳的实施例，所述的增稠剂选自羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、小菌核胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸(酯)类/烷基醇丙烯酸(酯)类交联聚合物和明胶中的一种或几种；所述的防腐抗菌剂选自羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、苯氧基乙醇、戊二醇、己二醇和对羟基苯乙酮中的一种或几种；所述的多元醇选自丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油和甲基丙二醇中的一种。
在本发明中，所述的增稠剂选自羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、小菌核胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸(酯)类/烷基醇丙烯酸(酯)类交联聚合物以及明胶中的一种或多种；所述的防腐抗菌剂选自羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、苯氧基乙醇、戊二醇、己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮中的一种或者两种以上的混合；所述的多元醇选自丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油、甲基丙二醇中的一种或几种。
本发明进一步保护一种上述的美白祛斑面膜液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
(1)按重量百分比称取各成分；
(2)在真空乳化锅内投入去离子水，升温至95℃保温20分钟后冷却至75℃；
(3)在搅拌下向去离子水中投入EDTA二钠，将增稠剂、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸与多元醇混合后投入，保持温度60～75℃，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(4)降温至45～50℃，投入传明酸、烟酰胺、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、甜菜碱，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(5)降温至35～45℃，投入肌肽、乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、防腐抗菌剂，搅拌至溶解均匀；
(6)抽真空至－0.06MPa，，搅拌20分钟；
(7)排除真空，出料。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液含有由传明酸、烟酰胺、肌肽、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖等有效活性成分。其中传明酸是一种蛋白酶抑制剂，能抑制蛋白酶对肽键水解的催化作用，从而阻止了如发源性蛋白酶等酶的活性，进而抑制了黑斑部位的表皮细胞机能的混乱，并且抑制黑色素增强因子群，再彻底断绝因为紫外线照射而形成的黑色素发生的途径，从而能有效地防止和改善皮肤的色素沉积。烟酰胺是一种稳定的水溶性成分，分子量小，能迅速渗透肌肤角质层，抑制黑色素向表皮转运，抑制暗沉色斑产生，同时具有抗糖化功能，可以使暗黄肤色变得白润清透。肌肽是一种天然抗氧化剂，在抗氧化、抑制自由基和金属离子引起得脂质氧化具有显著的作用，能明显减少黑色素形成。尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖能明显减轻皮肤因紫外线照射后产生的应急反应机制，减轻皮肤日光反应，减少黑色素的产生，并且加快细胞再生、加速角质层脱落，从而促进皮肤更新。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液采用羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、小菌核胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸(酯)类/烷基醇丙烯酸酯(类)交联聚合物、明胶中的一种或多种作为增稠剂，它们具有较高的透明度、增稠能力，在低添加量下溶解于水中后即可配制出稳定的粘稠液体，能够稳定和分散配方中的活性成分，有助于增进面膜使用时的感受，并且与皮肤有良好的相容性。同时，本发明所采用的各种有效活性成份和这些增稠剂均具有良好的兼容性。
在本发明中，所述的美白祛斑面膜液，由传明酸、烟酰胺、肌肽、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖组成美白祛斑组合，互补互促，发挥明显高于单一使用时的美白祛斑作用，然后通过乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、甜菜碱、羟乙基脲素配合多元醇，打开皮肤吸收通道，促进皮肤吸收，在皮肤上产生快速、明显的美白效果。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液精选多种成分进行科学复配，充分利用了配方中各成分的协同性和兼容性，多种成分相互协同与促进，大大提升了配方的功效，使产品配方的稳定性、效果的可靠性及快速显效问题都得到了完美解决。
具体实施方式
实施例一：
按照下列重量百分比称取各成分：
按重量百分比称取各成分，在真空乳化锅内投入去离子水，升温至95℃保温20分钟后冷却至75℃，在搅拌下向去离子水中投入EDTA二钠，将羟乙基纤维素、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸与丁二醇混合后投入，保持温度60～75℃，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至45～50℃，投入甘油、传明酸、烟酰胺、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、甜菜碱，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至35～45℃，投入肌肽、乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、苯氧基乙醇、己二醇、羟苯甲酯，搅拌至溶解均匀；抽真空至-0.06MPa，，搅拌20分钟；排除真空，出料。对所制得的美白祛斑面膜液进行各项指标测试，测试结果见表1及试验例1、试验例2。
实施例二：
按照下列重量百分比称取各成分：
按重量百分比称取各成分，在真空乳化锅内投入去离子水，升温至95℃保温20分钟后冷却至75℃，在搅拌下向去离子水中投入EDTA二钠，将卡波姆、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸与甲基丙二醇混合后投入，保持温度60～75℃，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至45～50℃，投入甘油、传明酸、烟酰胺、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、甜菜碱，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至35～45℃，投入肌肽、乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、苯氧基乙醇、对羟基苯乙酮、己二醇，搅拌至溶解均匀；抽真空至-0.06MPa，将精氨酸溶解于工艺水中后吸入真空乳化锅，搅拌30分钟；排除真空，出料。对所制得的美白祛斑面膜液进行各项指标测试，测试结果见表1及试验例1、试验例2。
实施例三：
按照下列重量百分比称取各成分：
按重量百分比称取各成分，在真空乳化锅内投入去离子水，升温至95℃保温20分钟后冷却至75℃，在搅拌下向去离子水中投入EDTA二钠，将羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸与丙二醇混合后投入，保持温度60～75℃，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至45～50℃，投入甘油、羟苯甲酯、传明酸、烟酰胺、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、甜菜碱，搅拌至溶解均匀；降温至35～45℃，投入肌肽、乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、苯氧基乙醇、戊二醇、己二醇，搅拌至溶解均匀；抽真空至-0.06MPa，搅拌30分钟；排除真空，出料。对所制得的美白祛斑面膜液进行各项指标测试，测试结果见表1及试验例1、试验例2。
测试例1性能测试
将本发明实施例1-3制得的美白祛斑面膜液进行各项指标测试，测试结果见表1。
表2美白祛斑面膜液的各项指标测试结果
试验例1斑贴试验
1.受试物：实施例1制备的美白祛斑面膜液。
2.阴性对照：去离子水。
3.受试者：共30人，男0人，女30人，年龄19-45岁，符合受试者志愿入选标准。
4.斑贴方法：选用合格的斑试器，以封闭式斑贴试验方法，将受试物和阴性对照约0.020mL-0.025mL(半流体)滴于斑试器内，外用专用胶带贴敷于受试者背部，24小时后去除受试物，分别去除后0.5、24、48小时观察皮肤反应，按《化妆品安全技术规范》(2015年版)中皮肤反应分级标准记录其结果。试验结果见表2：
表2人体皮肤斑贴试验结果
人体皮肤斑贴试验结果显示：30人中0例出现皮肤不良反应；说明本发明的美白祛斑面膜液使用安全。
试验例2美白祛斑效果试验
1.样品组：实施例1制备的美白祛斑面膜液。
2.对照组：对照组为市售美白祛斑面膜液。
3.受试者：共30人，男0人，女30人，年龄32-57岁，符合受试者志愿入选标准。
4.皮肤黑色素和血红素测试的原理：
Mexameter MX18是基于光谱吸收的原理(RGB)，通过测定特定波长的光照在人体皮肤上后的反射量来确定皮肤中黑色素和血红素的含量。仪器探头的发射器发出波长分别为568nm、660nm和880nm三种波长的光照射在皮肤表面，接受器测得皮肤反射的光。由于发射光的量是一定的，因此就可以测出被皮肤吸收的光的量，测出皮肤黑色素和血红素的含量。仪器的测量范围是0-999，测量数值越高，说明皮肤中黑色素和血红素的含量越高。
5.试验方法：
受试者涂抹样品前，先将试验部位洗净，晾干后涂抹样品。受试者左、右脸颊依次循环标记：4×4cm大小的面积作为受试区域和空白对照区域；受试者每天早晚在实验区域使用受试物两次，实验期间，受试者在实验部位不能涂抹任何其他化妆品。受试者在连续使用受试物一周、两周、三周和四周后，每周同一时间受试者将涂抹部位洗净，由测试者使用Mexameter MX18测试仪和MicroSkin II多功能皮肤镜图像分析系统测定涂抹部位的含量。每点测五次，取平均值。结果见表3。
黑色素降低率(％)＝[该次黑色素含量(％)-首次黑色素含量(％)]÷首次黑色素含量(％)×100％
相对黑色素降低率(％)＝该次样品组黑色素降低率(％)-该次对照5组色素降低率(％)
表3各组受试物结果对比表
由表3可知，样品组与对照组使用后黑色素含量均降低，且随着时间的推移呈递增趋势，而样品组黑色素含量减低速率明显优于对照组，在四周后，其相对黑色素降低率达到42.1％，可见样品组的祛斑效果明显优于对照组，且淡斑效果持久，证明本发所述的美白祛斑面膜液明显优于同类产品。
使用实施例2～3所得到的美白祛斑面膜液作为活性有效成分按上述方法进行人体皮肤斑贴试验和美白祛斑效果试验，均获得了与上述试验结果相类似的试验结果。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液含有由传明酸、烟酰胺、肌肽、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖等有效活性成分。其中传明酸是一种蛋白酶抑制剂，能抑制蛋白酶对肽键水解的催化作用，从而阻止了如发源性蛋白酶等酶的活性，进而抑制了黑斑部位的表皮细胞机能的混乱，并且抑制黑色素增强因子群，再彻底断绝因为紫外线照射而形成的黑色素发生的途径，从而能有效地防止和改善皮肤的色素沉积。烟酰胺是一种稳定的水溶性成分，分子量小，能迅速渗透肌肤角质层，抑制黑色素向表皮转运，抑制暗沉色斑产生，同时具有抗糖化功能，可以使暗黄肤色变得白润清透。肌肽是一种天然抗氧化剂，在抗氧化、抑制自由基和金属离子引起得脂质氧化具有显著的作用，能明显减少黑色素形成。尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖能明显减轻皮肤因紫外线照射后产生的应急反应机制，减轻皮肤日光反应，减少黑色素的产生，并且加快细胞再生、加速角质层脱落，从而促进皮肤更新。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液采用羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、小菌核胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸(酯)类/烷基醇丙烯酸酯(类)交联聚合物、明胶中的一种或多种作为增稠剂，它们具有较高的透明度、增稠能力，在低添加量下溶解于水中后即可配制出稳定的粘稠液体，能够稳定和分散配方中的活性成分，有助于增进面膜使用时的感受，并且与皮肤有良好的相容性。同时，本发明所采用的各种有效活性成份和这些增稠剂均具有良好的兼容性。
采用羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、双(羟甲基)咪唑烷基脲、苯氧基乙醇、戊二醇、己二醇、对羟基苯乙酮中的一种或者两种以上防腐抗菌剂灵活复配，可确保产品在保质期及使用期内的稳定性，保证产品在使用时不受外界微生物污染而导致变质或质量下降。
配方中所用多元醇为辅助溶剂增加产品稳定性及保质期，具有浸润皮肤角质层，保湿锁水同时增加面膜液是功效成分渗透至皮肤基底层发按美白祛斑作用。精氨酸为中和剂及pH值调节剂。
本发明所述的美白祛斑面膜液精选多种成分进行科学复配，充分利用了配方中各成分的协同性和兼容性，多种成分相互协同与促进，大大提升了配方的功效，使产品配方的稳定性、效果的可靠性及快速显效问题都得到了完美解决。产品pH值、细菌含量以及重金属含量等各项指标均符合护肤品的质量要求。
Claims (5)
1.一种美白祛斑面膜液，其特征在于，按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸0.05%～2.00%，烟酰胺0.10%～5.00%，肌肽0.01%～1.00%，尿囊素0.05%～1.00%，甘草酸二钾0.05%～2.00%，葡聚糖0.01%～3.00%，泛醇0.05%～3.00%，乳酸钠0.05%～2.50%，甜菜碱0.05%～5.00%，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠0.05%～7.50%，羟乙基脲0.10%～5.00%，透明质酸钠0.01%～1.00%，聚谷氨酸0.01%～1.00%，增稠剂0.04%～5.00%，EDTA 二钠0.01%～0.50%，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.01%～0.50%，防腐抗菌剂0.10%～5.00%，多元醇2.25%～20.00%，去离子水30.00%～97.00%。
2.根据权利要求1所述的美白祛斑面膜液，其特征在于,按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸0.07%～1.50%，烟酰胺0.50%～3.00%，肌肽0.04%～0.08%，尿囊素0.06%～0.08%，甘草酸二钾0.07%～1.50%，葡聚糖0.05%～2.00%，泛醇1.00%～2.00%，乳酸钠1.00%～2.00%，甜菜碱2.00%～3.00%，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠3.00%～5.50%，羟乙基脲2.50%～3.50%，透明质酸钠0.05%～0.70%，聚谷氨酸0.50%～0.70%，增稠剂1.00%～3.00%，EDTA 二钠0.10%～0.30%，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.10%～0.30%，防腐抗菌剂2.00%～4.00%，多元醇5.00%～15.00%，去离子水45.00%～60.00%。
3.根据权利要求2所述的美白祛斑面膜液，其特征在于,按重量百分比包括以下成分：
传明酸1.20%，烟酰胺2.00%，肌肽0.06%，尿囊素0.07%，甘草酸二钾1.00%，葡聚糖1.50%，泛醇1.50%，乳酸钠1.20%，甜菜碱2.50%，吡咯烷酮羧酸钠5.50%，羟乙基脲3.00%，透明质酸钠0.55%，聚谷氨酸0.600%，增稠剂3.00%，EDTA 二钠0.20%，羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸0.20%，防腐抗菌剂3.92%，多元醇13.00%，去离子水59.00%。
4.根据权利要求1所述的美白祛斑面膜液，其特征在于,所述的增稠剂选自羟乙基纤维素、黄原胶、小菌核胶、卡波姆、丙烯酸（酯）类/烷基醇丙烯酸（酯）类交联聚合物和明胶中的一种或几种；所述的防腐抗菌剂选自羟苯甲酯、羟苯丙酯、双（羟甲基）咪唑烷基脲、苯氧基乙醇、戊二醇、己二醇和对羟基苯乙酮中的一种或几种；所述的多元醇选自丁二醇、丙二醇、甘油和甲基丙二醇中的一种或几种。
5.一种如权利要求1-4任一项权利要求所述的美白祛斑面膜液的制备方法，包括以下步骤：
（1）按重量百分比称取各成分；
（2）在真空乳化锅内投入去离子水，升温至95℃保温20分钟后冷却至75℃；
（3）在搅拌下向去离子水中投入EDTA二钠，将增稠剂、透明质酸钠、聚谷氨酸与多元醇混合后投入，保持温度60~75℃，搅拌至溶解均匀；
（4）降温至45~50℃，投入传明酸、烟酰胺、尿囊素、甘草酸二钾、葡聚糖、泛醇、甜菜碱，搅拌至溶解均匀；
（5）降温至35~45℃，投入肌肽、乳酸钠、吡咯烷酮羧酸钠、羟乙基脲、羟苯基丙酰胺苯甲酸、防腐抗菌剂，搅拌至溶解均匀；
（6）抽真空至-0.06MPa，搅拌20分钟；
（7）排除真空，出料。
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