CN106619167A - Composition capable of whitening and brightening, preparation method thereof and application thereof in cosmetics - Google Patents
Composition capable of whitening and brightening, preparation method thereof and application thereof in cosmetics Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- CN106619167A CN106619167A CN201611054784.1A CN201611054784A CN106619167A CN 106619167 A CN106619167 A CN 106619167A CN 201611054784 A CN201611054784 A CN 201611054784A CN 106619167 A CN106619167 A CN 106619167A
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- Prior art keywords
- oil
- whitening
- water
- composition
- cosmetics
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 60
- 230000002087 whitening effect Effects 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
- 239000002537 cosmetic Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 17
- 238000005282 brightening Methods 0.000 title abstract 3
- BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N hydroquinone O-beta-D-glucopyranoside Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O[C@H]1OC1=CC=C(O)C=C1 BJRNKVDFDLYUGJ-RMPHRYRLSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 32
- -1 facial masks Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 30
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
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- CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N Ascorbic acid Chemical compound OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O CIWBSHSKHKDKBQ-JLAZNSOCSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 14
- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 239000000839 emulsion Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 229960003966 nicotinamide Drugs 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 235000005152 nicotinamide Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 9
- 239000011570 nicotinamide Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 9
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- ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N D-erythro-ascorbic acid Natural products OCC1OC(=O)C(O)=C1O ZZZCUOFIHGPKAK-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 229930003268 Vitamin C Natural products 0.000 claims abstract description 7
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 7
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- 241000196324 Embryophyta Species 0.000 claims description 14
- TXEWRVNOAJOINC-UHFFFAOYSA-N ginsenoside Rb2 Natural products CC(=CCCC(OC1OC(COC2OCC(O)C(O)C2O)C(O)C(O)C1O)C3CCC4(C)C3C(O)CC5C6(C)CCC(OC7OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C7OC8OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C8O)C(C)(C)C6CCC45C)C TXEWRVNOAJOINC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 12
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- GZYPWOGIYAIIPV-JBDTYSNRSA-N ginsenoside Rb1 Chemical compound C([C@H]1O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O)O[C@@](C)(CCC=C(C)C)[C@@H]1[C@@H]2[C@@]([C@@]3(CC[C@H]4C(C)(C)[C@@H](O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)CC[C@]4(C)[C@H]3C[C@H]2O)C)(C)CC1)O[C@@H]1O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O GZYPWOGIYAIIPV-JBDTYSNRSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- FBFMBWCLBGQEBU-GYMUUCMZSA-N 20-gluco-ginsenoside-Rf Natural products O([C@](CC/C=C(\C)/C)(C)[C@@H]1[C@H]2[C@H](O)C[C@H]3[C@](C)([C@]2(C)CC1)C[C@H](O[C@@H]1[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1)[C@H]1C(C)(C)[C@@H](O)CC[C@]31C)[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 FBFMBWCLBGQEBU-GYMUUCMZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- CNHRRMQBWQJRPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N chikusetsusaponin LM5 Natural products C1CC(C2(CC(O)C3C(C)(C)C(OC4C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O4)OC4C(C(O)C(O)C(CO)O4)O)CCC3(C)C2CC2O)C)(C)C2C1C(C)(CCC=C(C)C)OC(C(C(O)C1O)O)OC1COC1OC(CO)C(O)C1O CNHRRMQBWQJRPN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- NODILNFGTFIURN-GZPRDHCNSA-N ginsenoside Rb2 Chemical compound C([C@H]1O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O)O[C@@](C)(CCC=C(C)C)[C@@H]1[C@@H]2[C@@]([C@@]3(CC[C@H]4C(C)(C)[C@@H](O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)CC[C@]4(C)[C@H]3C[C@H]2O)C)(C)CC1)O[C@@H]1OC[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O NODILNFGTFIURN-GZPRDHCNSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- PFSIGTQOILYIIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N ginsenoside Rb3 Natural products CC(=CCCC(C)(O)C1CCC2(C)C3CCC4C(C)(C)C(CCC4(C)C3CC(OC5OC(COC6OCC(O)C(O)C6O)C(O)C(O)C5O)C12C)OC7OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C7OC8OC(CO)C(O)C(O)C8O)C PFSIGTQOILYIIU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- JDCPEKQWFDWQLI-LUQKBWBOSA-N ginsenoside Rc Chemical compound C([C@H]1O[C@H]([C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O)O)O[C@@](C)(CCC=C(C)C)[C@@H]1[C@@H]2[C@@]([C@@]3(CC[C@H]4C(C)(C)[C@@H](O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O[C@H]5[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O5)O)CC[C@]4(C)[C@H]3C[C@H]2O)C)(C)CC1)O[C@@H]1O[C@@H](CO)[C@H](O)[C@H]1O JDCPEKQWFDWQLI-LUQKBWBOSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- PWAOOJDMFUQOKB-WCZZMFLVSA-N ginsenoside Re Chemical compound O[C@@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O[C@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O[C@@H]2[C@H]3C(C)(C)[C@@H](O)CC[C@]3(C)[C@@H]3[C@@]([C@@]4(CC[C@@H]([C@H]4[C@H](O)C3)[C@](C)(CCC=C(C)C)O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O3)O)C)(C)C2)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O PWAOOJDMFUQOKB-WCZZMFLVSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
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- 229960000368 sulisobenzone Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000454 talc Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000012222 talc Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229910052623 talc Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 125000003698 tetramethyl group Chemical group [H]C([H])([H])* 0.000 description 1
- 230000001225 therapeutic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 231100000331 toxic Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000002588 toxic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000419 toxicity Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 230000001988 toxicity Effects 0.000 description 1
- LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-urocanic acid Natural products OC(=O)C=CC1=CNC=N1 LOIYMIARKYCTBW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 238000012546 transfer Methods 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003918 triazines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000012588 trypsin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003668 tyrosines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229940099259 vaseline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229930003231 vitamin Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 235000013343 vitamin Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011782 vitamin Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940088594 vitamin Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000008170 walnut oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000010508 watermelon seed oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000011787 zinc oxide Substances 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
- A61K8/602—Glycosides, e.g. rutin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/676—Ascorbic acid, i.e. vitamin C
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
- A61K2800/592—Mixtures of compounds complementing their respective functions
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
The invention relates to a composition capable of whitening and brightening, a preparation method thereof and an application thereof in cosmetics and belongs to the technical field of the cosmetics. The composition capable of whitening and brightening comprises the following ingredients in percentage by weight: 25% to 30% of arbutin, 10% to 15% of vitamin C or derivative thereof, 15% to 20% of nicotinamide, 3% to 6% of serpin, 1% to 2% of ginsenoside and 30% to 35% of sunscreen agent. According to the composition provided by the invention, the arbutin, the vitamin C derivative and the nicotinamide generate a whitening effect, and meanwhile, the serpin is used for protecting protein components of skin cells, promoting the activation and regeneration of the cells and eliminating cytotoxicity resulting from hydroquinone generated after the arbutin is reduced, so that the actions of long-acting whitening and cell activating are achieved; the composition has the advantages of little skin irritation and long acting time when the composition is applied to the cosmetics such as facial masks, emulsions and cream.
Description
Technical field
The present invention relates to a kind of whitening highlights composition, preparation method and the application in cosmetics, more particularly to
Ursin, VC, niacinamide are the whitening exterior-applied article of active component, belong to cosmetic technical field.
Background technology
Melanocyte is one kind of deep colors, can cause the coloring of skin, is by benzene in melanocyte (Melanin)
What alanine or a series of tyrosine biochemical reactions such as oxidized were generated.Tyrosinase has the (catalysis of tyrosine Jingization enzymatic activity concurrently
The DOPA of tyrosine one) and dopa oxidase enzymatic activity (the catalysis DOPA quinone of DOPA one), it is the key factor of the thin robe synthesis melanocyte of melanocyte.
Ursin can rapidly permeate into skin, while cell propagation concentration is not affected, can effectively suppress the junket in skin
The activity of propylhomoserin enzyme, blocks melanic generation.It is by itself with tyrosinase directly in conjunction with the bound site of competition DOPA
Point, accelerates melanic decomposition and excretion, so as to reduce Skin pigmentation.Ursin can rapidly permeate into skin, not affect
While cell propagation concentration, can effectively suppress the activity of the tyrosinase in skin, melanic formation be blocked, by certainly
Body is with junket ammonia enzyme directly in conjunction with acceleration is melanic to decompose few with excretion so as to reduce Skin pigmentation, dispelling stain and sparrow
Spot, and the side effects such as toxic, excitant, sensitization are not produced to melanocyte, while there is the sterilized, work of anti-inflammatory
With.
The similar whitening medicaments hydroquinones of ursin action principle.But hydroquinones has side effect, points for attention are a lot,
Must use under the guidance of doctor and monitoring.And in the structure of ursin more than hydroquinones glucose molecule, excitant
It is relatively low, can freely be added in skin care products, upper limit of concentration is up to 7%.The bioactive molecule of ursin can penetrate basalis and enter
The light spot of row depth, for chloasma, blackspot, sunburn, all very strong therapeutic action of the pigmentation that drug allergy is carried over.
But, hydroquinones can be reduced into after being absorbed by the skin due to ursin, therefore similar hydroquinones can be there is
Side effect.Although the whitening composition that hydroquinones should be very effective at last, it also breaks except resisting tyrosinase activity
The ability of bad established melanocyte, freckle effect very well, but easily causes flush or allergy with rear, for skin
Burden is very big, and China forbids this composition, and the side effect for being primarily due to quinhydrones is larger, excessively skin is produced using meeting
Cytotoxicity, and have certain probability to cause blue-black spot, moreover, quinhydrones also has fetus teratogenesis and toxicity to human body, when containing
Have ursin whitening product disable behind, by ursin reduce produce hydroquinone type material can to the activation of Skin Cell,
Growth produce it is certain affect, make whitening product effect be difficult it is long-acting play a role, there are cosmetics and disable skin-color below
Pool, moisture etc. can restore rapidly, need Long-Time Service cosmetics that effect can just kept, and cause the higher cost of user and meeting
Stimulation is produced to skin.
The content of the invention
Technical problem solved by the invention is:Using compositions such as ursin as active component in whitening cosmetics for external use
When be easily caused and have certain stimulation to skin, the bad problem of long-acting whitening, skin effect, there is provided one kind combination
Thing, by identical collaboration between component, beneficial to activation and regeneration of cell, improves long-acting whitening and moisturizing effect.
Technical scheme is:
According to the first aspect of the invention:
A kind of whitening highlights composition, includes following component by weight percentage:Ursin 25~30%, dimension life
Plain C or its derivative 10~15%, niacinamide 15~20%, serpin 3~6%, ginsenoside 1~
2%th, sun-screening agent 30~35%.
Described sun-screening agent is selected from physical sunscreen agent or chemical sun.
Described ursin is selected from alpha-arbutin or β-ursin.
Described ginsenoside is GF1, ginsenoside Re, ginsenoside Rd, ginsenoside Rb2, ginsenoside
One or several mixing in Rb1 or Ginsenoside Rc.
According to the second aspect of the invention:
Include the cosmetics for external use that described whitening highlights composition.
Described cosmetics for external use, the carrier for being used is selected from includes emulsion, creams, lotion, solution, anhydrous figuration
Agent, gel and ointment.
Described emulsion is selected from Water-In-Oil, W/O/W, oil-in-water, water bag silica gel, silica gel Bao Shui, Water-In-Oil bag oil
Or the oil-in-water emulsion of silica gel bag.
According to the third aspect of the present invention:
It is a kind of to include the exterior-applied emulsion that above-mentioned whitening highlights composition, using oil-in-water carrier, include by weight
The following component of percentages:Whitening highlights composition 10~15%, hydrocarbon ils 3~6% of wax class 3~10%, plant origin, non-
Emulsibility cross-linking type siloxanes 2~4%, nonionic surface active agent 1~4%, water 70~75%.
Described wax class refers to the wax class of dynamic/plant origin that fusing point is 75~100 DEG C.
According to the fourth aspect of the present invention:
The preparation method of described exterior-applied emulsion, comprises the steps:Whitening is highlighted into composition, wax class, plant origin
Hydrocarbon ils, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes, a part of nonionic surfactant be well mixed, obtain oil phase;Again by water and
Remaining nonionic surfactant is well mixed, and obtains water phase;Under the conditions of high speed is scattered, then by oil phase be slowly added to
Water quite in, stir, obtain stable oil-in-water emulsion.
According to the fifth aspect of the present invention:
Described whitening highlights application of the composition in cosmetics are prepared.
Beneficial effect
In the lightening compositions that the present invention is provided, whitening effect is produced by ursin, vitamin C derivative, niacinamide, while
The proteinaceous components of Skin Cell are protected using serpin, promotes activation and regeneration of cell, eliminate bear
The cytotoxicity that the hydroquinones produced after the reduction of fruit glycosides brings, reaches the effect of long-acting whitening, activating cell;Said composition should
In for cosmetics, such as there is, long action time little to skin irritatin in facial mask, emulsion, creme.
Specific embodiment
The present invention is described in further detail below by specific embodiment.But those skilled in the art will manage
Solution, the following example is merely to illustrate the present invention, and should not be taken as limiting the scope of the invention.Unreceipted concrete skill in embodiment
Art or condition person, are carried out according to the technology or condition described by document in the art or according to product description.Examination used
Agent or the unreceipted production firm person of instrument, be can pass through city available from conventional products.Approximate language used herein is whole
Can be used to modify any quantity statement in individual specification and claims, it can occur in the basic function for not causing its related
Permit being changed under conditions of change.Therefore, it is accurate specified by the value of term modification such as " about " is not limited to
Value.In at least some cases, approximate language can be corresponding with the precision of the instrument for measuring the value.Unless context or sentence
In indicate otherwise, otherwise range limit can be combined and/or exchange, and this scope is confirmed as and including herein
Included all subranges.Except operation embodiment in or elsewhere in indicate in addition to, specification and claims
Used in amount, the reaction condition of all expression compositions etc. numeral or expression shall be construed as receiving in all cases
To the modification of word " about ".Word " including " used herein, "comprising", " having " or its any other variant are intended to cover non-
It is exclusive including.For example, those key elements are not necessarily limited by including technique, method, article or the equipment for listing key element, but can
The key element intrinsic so that this technique, method, article or equipment are not expressly set out or belonged to including other.With range format expression
Value should be interpreted as in a flexible way not only including the numerical value as range limit that clearly includes, but also including culvert
All single numbers within the range or subinterval are covered, just as each numerical value and subinterval are expressly recited out.For example, it is " big
About 0.1% to about 5% " concentration range should be understood to the concentration of about 0.1% to about 5% for not only including clearly including,
Also include single concentration in the range of alluding to (e.g., 1%, 2%, 3% and 4%) and subinterval (for example, 0.1% to 0.5%,
1% to 2.2%, 3.3% to 4.4%).
Composition provided by the present invention mainly includes following component:Ursin, vitamin C or its derivative, cigarette
Acid amides, serpin, extract of Radix Ginseng leaf, sun-screening agent.
Ursin, is whitening to be played in composition, suppresses the main active substances of melanin generation, and it can be selected from α-bear
Fruit glycosides or β-ursin.
Vitamin C or its derivative, play a part of auxiliary and brighten.
When niacinamide is used as whitening composition, it was demonstrated that the hyperpigmentation caused to treating chloasma and ultraviolet has necessarily
Effect.
Serpin is used to improve the activity of Skin Cell, it is to avoid ursin reduzate is to Skin Cell
Stimulation effect, for example can be Aprotinin and the like.
Ginsenoside is used to suppress the activity of tyrosinase, further increases the colour of skin for improving obfuscation or the color for preventing skin
Plain calm effect, for example, can adopt ginsenoside for GF1, ginsenoside Re, ginsenoside Rd, ginsenoside
Rb2, ginsenoside Rb1 or Ginsenoside Rc, wherein it is preferred that adopting ginsenoside Rb1.
Sun-screening agent, for preventing absorption of the Skin Cell to UVA, UVB.Sun-screening agent employed in the present invention, without spy
Do not limit, chemically and physically substance having sun-screening function can be included.It is right that the non-limiting examples of the chemical sunscreen material that can be used include
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters (PABA glyceride, amyl group dimethanol PABA esters and octyl group dimethanol PABA esters), PABA fourths
Ester, PABA ethyl esters, ethyl dihydroxy propyl alcohol PABA esters, benzophenone (oxybenzone, sulisobenzone, benzophenone and benzophenone-
1 to 12), cinnamate/ester (octyl methoxycinnamate, Neo Heliopan E1000, octyl methoxycinnamate,
Cinoxate, diisopropyl methyl cinnamate, methoxy cinnamic acid DEA salt, diisopropyl ethyl cinnamate, glycerol caprylate two
Methoxycinnamate and methoxycinnamate acetoacetic ester), cinnamate, salicylate (equal cresotinic acid acid esters, salicylic acid benzyl
Ester, ethylene glycol salicylate, isopropylbenzyl alcohol salicylate etc.), anthranilate/ester, urocanic acid ethyl ester, former film dissipate
Ester, octyl salicylate, dibenzoylmethane derivatives (such as Avobenzone), Octocrilene, octyl triazone, galloyl gallate
Trioleate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, 2 hydroxy 1,4 naphthoquinone (lawsone) and dihydroxyacetone (DHA), Uvinul T 150, dioctyl fourth
Amide groups triazinone, benzylidene malonic acid fat dimethyl silicone polymer, terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid, phenyl dibenzo
Imidazoles tetrasulfonic acid ester disodium, diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl-hexyl-benzoate, double diethylamino-hydroxybenzoyl benzoic acid
Ester, double benzoxazolyl phenylethyl hexyl imino group triazines, Ethylhexysalicylate, di-2-ethylhexylphosphine oxide BTA base tetramethyl
Base butylphenol and double ethylhexyl oxy phenol anisyl triazines, 4- methyl benzylidenes camphanone and 4- methoxy cinnamic acids are different
Pentyl ester.The non-limiting examples of physical sunblocks include kaolin, talcum, vaseline and metal oxide (such as titanium dioxide
Titanium and zinc oxide).
The preparation method of combinations of the above thing, is not particularly limited, as long as using suitable mixed media by its each group
Divide mixing.
Above-mentioned lightening compositions can be incorporated to all types of carriers.Non-limiting examples include emulsion (for example, oil
Bao Shui, W/O/W, oil-in-water, water bag silica gel, silica gel Bao Shui, Water-In-Oil bag oil, the oil-in-water emulsion of silica gel bag), creams,
Lotion, solution (aqueous solution or water-ethanol solution), non-aqueous vehicles (such as lipstick and powder), gel and ointment, suitably
Carrier is arbitrarily it will be evident that and suitable for the present invention for the ordinary skill of this area.
In a preferred embodiment, composition of the invention is particularly well-suited to oil-in-water emulsion, can be using such as
Under formula by weight percentage:Whitening highlight composition 10~15%, wax class 3~10%, plant origin hydrocarbon ils 3~
6%th, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes 2~4%, nonionic surface active agent 1~4%, water 70~75%.
Wherein, wax class, the hydrocarbon oils of plant origin and non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes are the components as oil phase, it is non-from
, until emulsification and scattered effect, water is used as main matrix for sub- surfactant.
Wherein, wax class can refer to the wax class of dynamic/plant origin that fusing point is 75~100 DEG C.In addition, more preferably plant origin
Wax class.Brazil wax can specifically be included.
The hydrocarbon ils of plant origin, such as phytosterin ester, such as phytosterols oletate, phytosterol isostearate and the moon
Osmanthus acyl/octyldodecanol/phytosterol glutamate, the wherein triglycerides formed by the fatty acid ester of glycerine, aliphatic acid
Can especially have the chain length of C4 to C36, especially C18 to C36, these oil possibly straight or branched, and saturation or insatiable hunger
Sum;These oil especially can be enanthic acid or Trivent OCG, shea butter, alfalfa oil, poppy seed oil, winter squash oil,
Millet oil, big wheat oil, lamb's-quarters wheat oil, rye-seed oil, bankoul nut oil, passionflower oil, sher butter, aloe, Sweet Almond Oil, peach-pit oil,
Peanut oil, argan oil, avocado oil, kopok oil, borage oil, broccoli oil, pot marigold oil, cameline oil, canola oil,
Carrot oil, safflower oil, cannabis oil, rapeseed oil, cottonseed oil, coconut oil, marrow seed oil, wheat-germ oil, SIMMONDSIA CHINENSIS SEED OIL, lily
Oil, macadimia nut oil, corn oil, white awns flower seed oil, St. john's wort oil, gardenia flower oil, hazelnut oil, apricot kernel oil, walnut oil, olive
Oil, evening primrose oil, palm oil, blackcurrant seed oil, unusual fruit seed oil, grape-kernel oil, pistachio seed oil, winter squash oil, pumpkin
Oil, lamb's-quarters wheat oil, musk rose oil, sesame oil, soybean oil, sunflower oil, castor oil and watermelon seed oil and its mixture.
Non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes be preferably selected from by following groups for constituting in it is one kind or two or more:Dimethyl gathers
Dimethicone Crosspolymer, (dimethyl polysiloxane/Vinyl Dimethicone) cross-linked polymer, (the poly- silicon of dimethyl
Oxygen alkane/phenyl vinyl dimethyl polysiloxane) cross-linked polymer, (Vinyl Dimethicone/dodecyl dimethyl
Polysiloxanes) cross-linked polymer, (dodecyl poly dimethyl siloxy ethyl dimethyl polysiloxane/bis--vinyl two
Methyl polysiloxane) cross-linked polymer, alkyl (C30-45) Cetyldimethicone cross-linked polymer, cetyl
Dimethyl polysiloxane cross-linked polymer.
In addition, in the range of the effect for not damaging the present invention, above-mentioned oil-in-water emulsion type sunscreen preparation can basis
Need suitably to coordinate the various composition being generally mated in cosmetics and quasi drug field, for example:Powdered ingredients, solid grease, guarantor
It is humectant, thickener, metal ion sealer, pigment, pH adjusting agent, skin-nourishing agent, vitamin, preservative, antioxidant, anti-
Oxidation promoter, spices etc..
Oil-in-water emulsion type sunscreen preparation of the present invention can be according to the side used always in the manufacture of emulsion
Method and manufacture.For example, oil-phase component and water-phase component are each mixed and modulates oil phase and water phase respectively, mixing water phase and oil phase
And emulsified with mixer for well-distribution etc., the oil-in-water emulsion type sunscreen preparation thus, it is possible to obtain the present invention.In one embodiment
In, its manufacture method comprises the steps:Whitening is highlighted into composition, wax class, the hydrocarbon ils of plant origin, higher alcohol, a part
Nonionic surfactant is well mixed, and obtains oil phase;Water and remaining nonionic surfactant are well mixed again, are obtained
Water phase;Under the conditions of high speed is scattered, then by oil phase be slowly added to water quite in, stir, obtain stable oil-in-water
Emulsion.
The preparation of the composition of embodiment 1
Whitening highlights composition, is prepared by following component by weight:Ursin 30%, vitamin C
15%th, niacinamide 20%, serpin Aprotinin 4%, ginsenoside Rb1 1%, sun-screening agent (ethylhexyl three
Piperazine ketone is with talcum powder by weight 1:4 mix) 30%.Each component is well mixed by weight.
The preparation of the composition of embodiment 2
Whitening highlights composition, is prepared by following component by weight:Ursin 28%, vitamin C
12%th, niacinamide 17%, serpin Aprotinin 6%, ginsenoside Rb1 2%, sun-screening agent (p-aminophenyl first
Acid is with titanium dioxide by weight 1:5 mix) 35%.Each component is well mixed by weight.
The preparation of the composition of embodiment 3
Whitening highlights composition, is prepared by following component by weight:Ursin 25%, vitamin C
14%th, niacinamide 18%, serpin Aprotinin 6%, ginsenoside Rb1 2%, sun-screening agent (octyl triazone
With titanium dioxide by weight 1:5 mix) 35%.Each component is well mixed by weight.
Reference examples 1
It is with the difference of embodiment 3:Serpin is not added in composition.
Reference examples 2
It is with the difference of embodiment 3:Ursin is not added in composition.
Extract whitening function in-vitro evaluation is tested
1st, the preparation of sample
The extract of the composition prepared with embodiment 1~3 and reference examples 1~2 is as sample.Sample 1g is dissolved in into 99g
In dimethyl sulfoxide, the sample solution that mass fraction is 1% is made into, supernatant is taken after centrifugation carries out test below.
2nd, the test of tyrosinase vigor effect assessment is suppressed
The accurate pipette samples solution of according to the form below, the PBS (PBS) that pH value is 6.8 and mass fraction are
0.1% DOPA solution, is sufficiently mixed, and is incubated in 30 DEG C after 5min, adds the tyrosinase solution that activity is 110U/mL, then
10min is incubated at 30 DEG C, in being transferred quickly to cuvette, absorbance is surveyed at 475nm.
| Reactant liquor composition | 1 group | 2 groups | 3 groups | 4 groups |
| Sample solution mL | 1 | 1 | ||
| PBS mL | 2 | 2.5 | 1 | 1.5 |
| DOPA solution mL | 1 | 1 | 1 | |
| Tyrosinase solution mL | 0.5 | 0.5 | ||
| Cumulative volume mL | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 | 3.5 |
Relative inhibition (I) of the sample to tyrosinase is calculated by formula (1).
I=[(A1-A2)-(A3-A4)] × 100% ÷ (A1-A2) (1)
In formula:A1, A2, A3, A4 are respectively the absorbance of 1 group~4 groups solution.
Suppress B16 cell test in melanocyte
By B16 MCs with 1 × 105The density of individual/mL is inoculated in 96 orifice plates, per hole 90 μ L, CO2In incubator
After incubation 24 hours, sample solution is added per hole.The blank control group of culture medium and cell is set up simultaneously.
Culture plate is placed in after being incubated 72 hours in incubator, abandoning supernatant, PBS is washed twice, is then added per hole
0.5mL trypsin digestion cell 3min, add 2mL maintaining liquids to terminate digestion per hole.After mixing, every kind of concentration is taken out 0.5mL and is run business into particular one
Born of the same parents count.Remaining cell suspension adds NaOH solution with 2500r/min centrifugation 5min, abandoning supernatant in precipitation, plus
Heat dissolves melanin, selects 490nm wavelength mensuration absorbance value under enzyme-linked immunosorbent assay instrument.Sample pair is calculated by formula (2)
B16 cell inhibiting rate (I ').
I '=(1-A5 ÷ P1/A6 ÷ P2) × 100% (2)
In formula:A5 is medicine hole absorbance;P1 is medicine hole cell density;A6 is control wells absorbance;P2 is right
According to hole cell density.
| Embodiment 1 | Embodiment 2 | Embodiment 3 | Reference examples 1 | Reference examples 2 | |
| Inhibiting rate % to tyrosinase | 90.3 | 88.5 | 89.4 | 90.6 | 54.1 |
| Inhibiting rate % to B16 cell | 82.1 | 80.7 | 81.3 | 82.1 | 42.7 |
As can be seen from the above table, combinations of the above thing has the suppression efficiency preferably to tyrosinase, and can suppress
Melanic synthesis, does not add serpin not show obvious shadow for external synthetic test in reference examples 1
Ring, due to not adding ursin in reference examples 2, showing the inhibiting rate to tyrosinase and B16 cell reduces.
The preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion of embodiment 4
Using the composition in embodiment 1, whitening highlight composition 13%, Brazil wax 7%, wheat-germ oil 5%,
Dimethicone Crosspolymer 2%, nonionic surface active agent 3%, water 70%.Whitening is highlighted into composition, wax
Class, the hydrocarbon ils of plant origin, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes, the nonionic surfactant of half are well mixed, and are warming up to
50 DEG C of stirring 10min, obtain oil phase;Water and remaining nonionic surfactant are well mixed again, are warming up to 75 DEG C of stirrings
10min, obtains water phase;Under the conditions of 1500rpm high speeds are scattered, then by oil phase be slowly added to water quite in, stir,
Obtain stable oil-in-water emulsion.
The preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion of embodiment 5
Using the composition in embodiment 2, whitening highlight composition 10%, Brazil wax 3%, avocado oil 5%, poly- two
Methylsiloxane cross-linked polymer 3%, nonionic surface active agent 4%, water 75%.Whitening is highlighted into composition, wax class, plant
The hydrocarbon ils in thing source, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes, the nonionic surfactant of half are well mixed, and are warming up to 50 DEG C and stir
10min is mixed, oil phase is obtained;Water and remaining nonionic surfactant are well mixed again, are warming up to 75 DEG C of stirring 10min,
Obtain water phase;Under the conditions of 1500rpm high speeds are scattered, then by oil phase be slowly added to water quite in, stir, obtain steady
Fixed oil-in-water emulsion.
The preparation of the oil-in-water emulsion of embodiment 6
Using the composition in embodiment 3, whitening highlight composition 11%, Brazil wax 4%, olive oil 3%, poly- two
Methylsiloxane cross-linked polymer 4%, nonionic surface active agent 3%, water 75%.Whitening is highlighted into composition, wax class, plant
The hydrocarbon ils in thing source, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes, the nonionic surfactant of half are well mixed, and are warming up to 50 DEG C and stir
10min is mixed, oil phase is obtained;Water and remaining nonionic surfactant are well mixed again, are warming up to 75 DEG C of stirring 10min,
Obtain water phase;Under the conditions of 1500rpm high speeds are scattered, then by oil phase be slowly added to water quite in, stir, obtain steady
Fixed oil-in-water emulsion.
Reference examples 2
It is with the difference of embodiment 6:Using whitening to highlight composition prepared in reference examples 1, for replacing
For what is prepared in embodiment 3.
Reference examples 3
It is with the difference of embodiment 6:Using whitening to highlight composition prepared in reference examples 2, for replacing
For what is prepared in embodiment 3.
Whitening effect is tested
Whitening effect is tested, including accelerates transfer, metabolism and the raising skin brightness test of dermal melanin.It is following
White-skinned face function test adopts human test's mode, is surveyed with skin dark red pigment tester and skin colourity test probe+MPA 9
Examination instrument determines melanin content and the brightness of skin.
120 volunteers are chosen, men and women half and half, be randomly divided into 6 groups, per group of 20 people, per group respectively with embodiment 4~6, right
As usual 2~3 and blank sample tested, blank sample is 75% common ethanol, and the test data of each group is averaged.It is tested
Any product can not be used within 2~3 days before position;With dry face tissue is by both hands inner forearm wiped clean and is 4 × 4cm2Examination
Area test mark is tested, with skin dark red pigment tester and skin colourity test probe+MPA9 testers tested skin is determined
Melanin content and skin brightness;Test sample and blank group are pressed into 2.0 ± 0.1mg samples/cm with latex finger cot2Consumption
It is applied to respectively in left and right arm, respectively smears once sooner or later daily, gently apply after smearing every time and rub 5min with the hands, continuously smear 4 weeks, applies
Measure the melanin content and skin brightness in the 1st~4 week each region after smearing respectively;After 4 weeks, external used medicine is stopped using, then
Continue to determine color of the leather cellulose content and skin brightness 2 weeks.
(1) melanin content mutation analysis
Dermal melanin changes of contents was reflected in test period, and pilot region dermal melanin content changes over rule
Rule.Its value is bigger, and dermal melanin content is bigger, conversely, dermal melanin content.Melanin content difference (Δ T)=use
Each time point melanin content (Tn) after product-using melanin content (T0) before product.
The difference of recipient site dermal melanin content and initial value
Within 4 weeks test periods, the oil-in-water emulsion provided in embodiment has and preferably reduce dermal melanin content
Effect, melanin content is negative value, and is gradually reduced, and illustrates that cosmetics for external use has and dispels black effect, meanwhile, blank sample
The pigment change rate of product be all on the occasion of.In addition, after the 5th week is discontinued, the dermal melanin after the sample use of reference examples 1 contains
Amount is significantly recovered, and -0.87 is had been increased to during by the 6th week, and has used the melanin content rising of the sample of embodiment 6 slow
Slowly, illustrate that the cosmetics for adding serpin have preferably holding cytoactive, prevent ursin from reducing
Product stimulates the effect of skin, with the black effect of long-acting suppression;Ursin, skin is not added not to receive in sample in reference examples 3
To the impact of ursin reduzate, less, serpin is in reference examples 3 for the change of skin brightness after drug withdrawal
Role is not notable after addition.
(2) mutation analysis of skin brightness
Skin brightness change was reflected in test period, is investigated Experimental Area skin brightness L values and is changed over rule.Its
Value is bigger, and skin brightness is bigger, conversely, skin brightness is lower.
Skin brightness difference (Δ T)=using each time point L values (Tn) after product-use L values (T0) before product.
The difference of recipient site skin brightness L values and initial value
As can be seen from the above table, the skin brightness of blank sample kept stable in 6 weeks of test, and embodiment
In sample there is the effect for making that skin brightness stably rises;After being discontinued at the 5th, 6 weeks, the skin of the sample in reference examples 2 is bright
Degree substantially occurs in that decline, and the brightness of the sample in embodiment keeps stable, illustrates to add serpin
External skin test in, can effectively suppress the degraded of ursin to the impact of skin, promote cell activation, imitate whitening
It is really more longlasting.
Claims (9)
1. a kind of whitening highlights composition, it is characterised in that include following component by weight percentage:Ursin 25~
30%, vitamin C or its derivative 10~15%, niacinamide 15~20%, serpin 3~6%, ginseng
Saponin(e 1~2%, sun-screening agent 30~35%.
2. whitening according to claim 1 highlights composition, it is characterised in that described sun-screening agent is selected from physical sunscreen agent
Or chemical sun;Described ursin is selected from alpha-arbutin or β-ursin.
3. whitening according to claim 1 highlights composition, it is characterised in that described ginsenoside is ginsenoside
One or several in F1, ginsenoside Re, ginsenoside Rd, ginsenoside Rb2, ginsenoside Rb1 or Ginsenoside Rc
Mixing.
4. the cosmetics for external use that the whitening described in claim 1 highlights composition is included.
5. cosmetics for external use according to claim 4, it is characterised in that the carrier for being used is selected from including emulsion, breast
Frost, lotion, solution, non-aqueous vehicles, gel and ointment.
6. cosmetics for external use according to claim 5, it is characterised in that described emulsion is selected from Water-In-Oil, oil-in-water
Bao Shui, oil-in-water, water bag silica gel, silica gel Bao Shui, Water-In-Oil bag oil or the oil-in-water emulsion of silica gel bag.
7. cosmetics for external use according to claim 6, it is characterised in that using oil-in-water carrier, include by weight hundred
Divide the following component than counting:Whitening highlights composition 10~15%, the hydrocarbon ils 3~6% of wax class 3~10%, plant origin, non-breast
The property changed cross-linking type siloxanes 2~4%, nonionic surface active agent 1~4%, water 70~75%.
8. the preparation method of the cosmetics for external use described in claim 7, it is characterised in that comprise the steps:Whitening is highlighted
Composition, wax class, the hydrocarbon ils of plant origin, non-emulsified cross-linking type siloxanes, the mixing of a part of nonionic surfactant are equal
It is even, obtain oil phase;Water and remaining nonionic surfactant are well mixed again, obtain water phase;In the scattered condition of high speed
Under, then by oil phase be slowly added to water quite in, stir, obtain stable oil-in-water emulsion.
9. the whitening described in claim 1 highlights application of the composition in cosmetics are prepared.
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| CN109010179A (en) * | 2018-09-20 | 2018-12-18 | 广东山石微量元素研究院(普通合伙) | A kind of mud film and preparation method thereof that the sunburn of microelement containing Khotan jade is repaired |
| CN109199878A (en) * | 2018-09-26 | 2019-01-15 | 华南理工大学 | A kind of whitening sun protection W/O/W multiple emulsion and preparation method thereof |
| CN110433122A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | A kind of composition and its application in the skin care item for preparing light speckles, beautification and white |
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| CN107095806A (en) * | 2017-06-27 | 2017-08-29 | 新时代健康产业(集团)有限公司 | A kind of oily packet emulsion type foundation cream emulsion and preparation method thereof |
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| CN109010179A (en) * | 2018-09-20 | 2018-12-18 | 广东山石微量元素研究院(普通合伙) | A kind of mud film and preparation method thereof that the sunburn of microelement containing Khotan jade is repaired |
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| CN110433122A (en) * | 2019-09-11 | 2019-11-12 | 吉林省强参生物技术有限公司 | A kind of composition and its application in the skin care item for preparing light speckles, beautification and white |
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| CN110882178B (en) * | 2019-12-19 | 2023-11-24 | 深圳市维琪科技股份有限公司 | Water-in-oil system whitening polypeptide composition |
| CN112716829A (en) * | 2021-02-23 | 2021-04-30 | 深圳市护家科技有限公司 | Brightening and whitening composition |
| CN119524204A (en) * | 2024-11-27 | 2025-02-28 | 小草生物科技有限公司 | A modified hyaluronic acid with antibacterial and whitening effects and its application in medical beauty fillers |
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