CN105168021A - 一种祛痘美白精华霜及其制备方法 - Google Patents
一种祛痘美白精华霜及其制备方法 Download PDFInfo
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Abstract
本发明祛痘美白精华霜，是由以下重量份数的原料制成：高岭土6～8份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5～6份、羧甲基壳聚糖6～8份、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.5～2份、去离子水35～40份、香兰素1.2～1.5份、十八醇10～12份、鸵鸟油14～16份、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯18～22份、鸡蛋果20～25份、蝉花10～13份、桦木酸2～2.5份。本发明祛痘美白精华霜，通过各种组分的合理使用与搭配以及特殊工艺制成，各组分之间的协同作用十分突出，本祛痘美白精华霜不仅可高效抑制黑色素的形成，达到优异美白的效果，还具有突出的祛痘抗炎效果，达到综合调理的美白祛痘效果。
Description
技术领域
本发明属于化妆品制备技术领域，具体涉及一种祛痘美白精华霜及其制备方法。
背景技术
祛痘美白是指通过各种医疗美容技术作用于痤疮部皮肤，使皮肤恢复光泽、细腻。皮肤颜色主要由皮肤中黑色素的含量决定的，黑色素细胞中黑色素的生物合成是由酶催化的一连串氧化反应。酪氨酸酶是合成黑素的主要酶，在合成过程的多个反应步骤中起关键作用。黑色素在皮肤表皮层内均匀过量沉积，肤色就会变黑，黑色素局部过量沉积，是形成雀斑，黄褐斑的根本原理。酪氨酸酶在黑素合成过程的多个反应步骤中起关键作用，是黑素生成的关键酶、限速酶。
青春痘的发生主要与皮脂分泌过多、毛囊皮脂腺导管堵塞、细菌感染和炎症反应等因素密切相关。进入青春期后人体内雄激素特别是睾酮的水平迅速升高，促进皮脂腺发育并产生大量皮脂。同时毛囊皮脂腺导管的角化异常造成导管堵塞，皮脂排出障碍，形成角质栓即微粉刺。
市面上祛痘的产品很多如：祛痘洗面奶、祛痘面膜、祛痘原液，怡·馨源祛痘精油等等，很多祛痘产品其主要成分是中草药植物，运用清爽控油预防痘痘产生，慢慢调理肌肤的内部环境最终达到祛痘的目的。中药祛痘是根据中医理论，从内部着手，清毒、化湿、调节内分泌，根治青春痘痤疮。内服外用，辩证为主。具有祛痘功效的中药有：永久花、藏红花、丹皮、赤芍、玄参、蝉蜕、连翘、野菊花、陈皮、白芷、双花等。中医祛痘代表方剂有：玉玄痤疮散、清毒汤、武宣汤等。
发明内容
本发明的目的是提供一种具有突出的祛痘和美白效果的祛痘美白精华霜及其制备方法。
本发明祛痘美白精华霜，是由以下重量份数的原料制成：高岭土6～8份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5～6份、羧甲基壳聚糖6～8份、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.5～2份、去离子水35～40份、香兰素1.2～1.5份、十八醇10～12份、鸵鸟油14～16份、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯18～22份、鸡蛋果20～25份、蝉花10～13份、桦木酸2～2.5份。
作为优化，该祛痘美白精华霜，由以下重量份数的原料制成：高岭土7份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5.5份、羧甲基壳聚糖7.5份、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.7份、去离子水38份、香兰素1.3份、十八醇11份、鸵鸟油15份、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯19份、鸡蛋果23份、蝉花12份、桦木酸2.2份。
制备所述祛痘美白精华霜的方法，包括以下步骤：
a、将所述重量份数的聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、羧甲基壳聚糖、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵，去离子水，在56℃～68℃条件下，加入搅拌机中以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌12分钟；
b、将所述重量份数的十八醇、鸵鸟油、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯，在70℃～78℃条件下加入搅拌机中以800转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟；
c、将所述重量份数的鸡蛋果、蝉花粉碎后加入10倍量纯净水，回流提取3次，每次3小时，过滤，浓缩得到浸膏A；
d、将浸膏A和所述重量份数的高岭土、香兰素、桦木酸，依次加入到步骤a中的混合物中，在45℃～55℃条件下，以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟，然后缓慢加入步骤b中的混合物，以800转/分钟的转速搅拌50分钟。
本发明组分中，聚乙烯吡咯烷酮具有成膜性和吸湿性，其薄膜无色透明，硬而光亮。加入某些天然或合成高分子聚合物，有机化合物可有效地调节PVP的吸湿性和柔软性。羧甲基壳聚糖是一种水溶性壳聚糖衍生物，有许多特性，如抗菌性强，具有保鲜作用，是一种两性聚电解质等。聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵用作调节剂、抗静电剂、增湿剂、洗发剂和护肤用的润肤剂等。香兰素又名香草醛，为一种广泛使用的可食用香料，可在香荚兰的种子中找到，也可以人工合成，有浓烈奶香气息。化妆品级十八醇可用于高级化妆品中，香气纯正，可减少香精用量。鸵鸟油不但能在极短时间内舒缓、消除因关节炎、肌肉僵硬、颈椎病、肩周炎、腱鞘炎、鼻炎、腰椎间盘突出的肩膀僵硬所引起的疼痛，而且还对因运动造成的瘀伤、烫伤或轻微的伤口发炎同样也有功能，而且还具有滋润皮肤，消除皱纹和抑制疤痕形成等多种功能。鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯是皮肤柔润剂，增加肌肤的柔润性，肤质细腻光滑。鸡蛋果富含人体所需的十七种氨基酸、多种维生素和类胡萝卜素以及各种微量元素，可溶性固形物15-16%,总酸量3.8-4%,甜酸适中。蝉花具有提高免疫力、抗疲劳、保肾、改善睡眠、抗肿瘤、保肝、抗辐射和明目等多重作用，是神奇的古老中药。白桦酸具有抗肿瘤、抗艾滋病病毒、抗炎和体外抗疟病等多种生物活性，尤其对于恶性皮肤黑痣瘤有很好的效果。
本发明祛痘美白精华霜，通过各种组分的合理使用与搭配以及特殊工艺制成，各组分之间的协同作用十分突出，本祛痘美白精华霜不仅可高效抑制黑色素的形成，达到优异美白的效果，还具有突出的祛痘抗炎效果，达到综合调理的美白祛痘效果。
相关测试如下，测试分组：共纳入女性患有青春痘试用者216人，年龄最大36岁，最小14岁，平均年龄26岁左右。分为三组每组72人，分别为A组，露得清清滢祛痘凝露；B组，乐利来(LeRoy)鸵鸟油；C组，本发明实施例1中祛痘美白精华霜。每人每天早、晚使用一次。
美白测试，采用Lab色度系统测量同时结采用由德国司(CK)公司生产MEXAMETERMX18皮肤色素仪。在使用化妆品前1d和使用后7d、14d、21d、30d利用Lab色度系统光谱光度计测量皮肤颜色的变化，连续测试3次，取平均值。同时使用MEXAMETERMX18皮肤色素仪测皮肤黑色素含量，连续测试3次，取平均值。30日之后观察结果，试验前后受试部位皮肤黑色素含量的变化情况见表1；皮肤色度Ｌ*值的变化情况见表2。通过表1和表2可见，采用本发明的C组，其黑色素含量变化最大，皮肤Ｌ*值的提高最好，因此美白效果更好。
祛痘抗炎测试，入选标准：临床症状和体征符合寻常型痤疮诊断标准，病变程度符合中国痤疮治疗指南分类法Ⅰ～Ⅱ级，Ⅰ级（轻度）：仅有粉刺；Ⅱ级（中度）：除粉刺外还有炎症性丘疹。判定疗效，减少率=（治疗前炎性皮损数-治疗后炎性皮损数）/治疗前炎性皮损数×100%。基本痊愈：炎性皮损数减少≥90%；显效：炎性皮损数减少60%～89%；好转：炎性皮损数减少20%～60%；无效：炎性皮损数减少＜20%或加重。总有效率=（显效+痊愈+好转例数）/总例数×100%。3日后测定结果（表3）。通过表3可见采用本发明的C组，祛痘抗炎的有效率明显高于其他两组。
具体实施方式
下面给出的实施例拟对本发明作进一步说明，但不能理解为是对本发明保护范围的限制，本领域技术人员根据本发明内容对本发明的一些非本质的改进和调整，仍属于本发明的保护范围。
实施例1：a、将聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5.5千克、羧甲基壳聚糖7.5千克、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.7千克、去离子水38千克，在56℃～68℃条件下，加入搅拌机中以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌12分钟；
b、将十八醇11千克、鸵鸟油15千克、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯19千克，在70℃～78℃条件下加入搅拌机中以800转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟；
c、将鸡蛋果23千克、蝉花12千克粉碎后加入10倍量纯净水，回流提取3次，每次3小时，过滤，浓缩得到浸膏A；
d、将步骤c中浸膏A和4000目的化妆品级高岭土7千克、、香兰素1.3千克、桦木酸2.2千克，依次加入到步骤a中的混合物中，在45℃～55℃条件下，以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟，然后缓慢加入步骤b中的混合物，以800转/分钟的转速搅拌50分钟，装瓶密封。
实施例2：a、将聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5千克、羧甲基壳聚糖6千克、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.5千克、去离子水35千克，在56℃～68℃条件下，加入搅拌机中以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌12分钟；
b、将十八醇10千克、鸵鸟油14千克、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯18千克，在70℃～78℃条件下加入搅拌机中以800转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟；
c、将鸡蛋果20千克、蝉花10千克粉碎后加入10倍量纯净水，回流提取3次，每次3小时，过滤，浓缩得到浸膏A；
d、将步骤c中浸膏A和4000目的化妆品级高岭土6千克、、香兰素1.2千克、桦木酸2千克，依次加入到步骤a中的混合物中，在45℃～55℃条件下，以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟，然后缓慢加入步骤b中的混合物，以800转/分钟的转速搅拌50分钟，装瓶密封。
实施例3：a、将聚乙烯吡咯烷酮6千克、羧甲基壳聚糖8千克、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵2千克、去离子水40千克，在56℃～68℃条件下，加入搅拌机中以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌12分钟；
b、将十八醇12千克、鸵鸟油16千克、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯22千克，在70℃～78℃条件下加入搅拌机中以800转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟；
c、将鸡蛋果25千克、蝉花13千克粉碎后加入10倍量纯净水，回流提取3次，每次3小时，过滤，浓缩得到浸膏A；
d、将步骤c中浸膏A和4000目的化妆品级高岭土8千克、香兰素1.5千克、桦木酸2.5千克，依次加入到步骤a中的混合物中，在45℃～55℃条件下，以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟，然后缓慢加入步骤b中的混合物，以800转/分钟的转速搅拌50分钟，装瓶密封。
Claims (3)
1.一种祛痘美白精华霜，其特征在于是由以下重量份数的原料制成：高岭土6～8份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5～6份、羧甲基壳聚糖6～8份、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.5～2份、去离子水35～40份、香兰素1.2～1.5份、十八醇10～12份、鸵鸟油14～16份、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯18～22份、鸡蛋果20～25份、蝉花10～13份、桦木酸2～2.5份。
2.根据权利要求1所述的祛痘美白精华霜，其特征在于是由以下重量份数的原料制成：高岭土7份、聚乙烯吡咯烷酮5.5份、羧甲基壳聚糖7.5份、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵1.7份、去离子水38份、香兰素1.3份、十八醇11份、鸵鸟油15份、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯19份、鸡蛋果23份、蝉花12份、桦木酸2.2。
3.一种制备以上权利求所述祛痘美白精华霜的方法，其特征在于包括以下步骤：
a、将所述重量份数的聚乙烯吡咯烷酮、羧甲基壳聚糖、聚二甲基二烯丙基氯化铵，去离子水，在56℃～68℃条件下，加入搅拌机中以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌12分钟；
b、将所述重量份数的十八醇、鸵鸟油、鲸蜡硬脂醇异壬酸酯，在70℃～78℃条件下加入搅拌机中以800转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟；
c、将所述重量份数的鸡蛋果、蝉花粉碎后加入10倍量纯净水，回流提取3次，每次3小时，过滤，浓缩得到浸膏A；
d、将浸膏A和所述重量份数的高岭土、香兰素、桦木酸，依次加入到步骤a中的混合物中，在45℃～55℃条件下，以1000转/分钟的转速搅拌20分钟，然后缓慢加入步骤b中的混合物，以800转/分钟的转速搅拌50分钟。
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