CN104800135B - It is a kind of to have light spot, moisturizing, sun-proof Chinese medicine cosmetic concurrently - Google Patents
It is a kind of to have light spot, moisturizing, sun-proof Chinese medicine cosmetic concurrently Download PDFInfo
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
本发明涉及兼具淡斑、保湿、防晒的中药化妆品,可有效解决兼具淡斑、保湿、防晒用化妆品的问题,方法是,由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物5‑10%、天冬提取物0.1‑1%、红花提取物5‑10%、鸡冠花提取物5‑20%、抗坏血酸2‑3%、橄榄油12‑17%、棕榈酸异丙酯4‑6%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.4‑0.6%、甘油4‑6%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.08‑0.12%、乙醇6‑8%,余量为去离子水,本发明组方科学合理,具有补气养阴,活血祛瘀、保湿美白、强体防晒,能有效清除自由基、抑制酪氨酸酶的活性、加强皮肤新陈代谢,减少紫外线的对皮肤的伤害,天然无刺激,达到全面美白皮肤的功效,是化妆品上的一大创新,具有突出的经济和社会效益。The present invention relates to the traditional Chinese medicine cosmetics with anti-spot, moisturizing and sun protection, which can effectively solve the problem of cosmetics with anti-spot, moisturizing and sun protection. ‑10%, asparagus extract 0.1‑1%, safflower extract 5‑10%, cockscomb extract 5‑20%, ascorbic acid 2‑3%, olive oil 12‑17%, isopropyl palmitate4 -6%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.4-0.6%, glycerin 4-6%, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.08-0.12%, ethanol 6-8%, and the balance is deionized water, the prescription of the present invention Scientific and reasonable, it has the functions of invigorating qi and nourishing yin, promoting blood circulation and removing blood stasis, moisturizing and whitening, strengthening sunscreen, effectively removing free radicals, inhibiting the activity of tyrosinase, strengthening skin metabolism, reducing the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, natural and non-irritating, It is a great innovation in cosmetics to achieve the effect of comprehensive whitening of the skin, and it has outstanding economic and social benefits.
Description
技术领域technical field
本发明涉及医药,特别是一种兼具淡斑、保湿、防晒的中药化妆品。The invention relates to medicine, in particular to a traditional Chinese medicine cosmetic with the functions of lightening spots, moisturizing and sun protection.
背景技术Background technique
爱美之心人人有之,特别是现在年轻女性追求“白富美”,每个人都希望拥有健康白皙的皮肤。色素来源有两条途径:一条通过激活酪氨酸酶产生多巴醌,形成多巴色素,最后形成黑色素;另一条途径:皮肤中产生活性氧和过氧化脂质,过氧化脂质使胶原蛋白交联,除了使皮肤失去弹性外,还可以在氧化酶作用下分解成丙二醛等物质,这些物质与蛋白质反应,形成褐素斑,使皮肤肤色加深。后一条途径不需要酪氨酸酶参与,在细胞体内是一个不可避免的自由基伤害过程。Everyone has the desire for beauty, especially young women nowadays pursue "white and rich beauty", and everyone hopes to have healthy and fair skin. There are two ways for the source of pigment: one is to activate tyrosinase to produce dopaquinone, form dopa pigment, and finally form melanin; the other way is to generate active oxygen and lipid peroxide in the skin, and lipid peroxide makes collagen Cross-linking, in addition to making the skin lose its elasticity, can also be decomposed into malondialdehyde and other substances under the action of oxidase. These substances react with proteins to form brown pigment spots and darken the skin color. The latter pathway does not require the participation of tyrosinase and is an inevitable free radical damage process in the cell body.
为了防止色素沉积,美白化妆品的基本原理主要体现在以下几个方面:1.抑制黑色素的生成。通过抑制酪氨酸酶活性,或干扰黑色素生成的中间体,从而防止黑色素的生成。2.色素的还原、光氧化的防止。通过角质细胞刺激黑色素的消减,使已生成的黑色素淡化。3.在皮肤的代谢过程中,减少色素沉积。通过提高肌肤的新陈代谢,使黑色素迅速排出肌肤外。4.防止紫外线的进入。通过具防晒效果的制剂,用物理方法阻挡紫外线,减少由紫外线引起过多的黑色素。In order to prevent pigmentation, the basic principles of whitening cosmetics are mainly reflected in the following aspects: 1. Inhibit the production of melanin. Prevents melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, or interfering with melanin-producing intermediates. 2. Reduction of pigments and prevention of photooxidation. Stimulates the reduction of melanin through keratinocytes to lighten the already produced melanin. 3. In the metabolic process of the skin, reduce pigmentation. By improving the metabolism of the skin, the melanin can be quickly discharged out of the skin. 4. Prevent the entry of ultraviolet rays. Through preparations with sunscreen effect, physical methods are used to block ultraviolet rays and reduce excessive melanin caused by ultraviolet rays.
基于黑色素的形成机理,美白化妆品的主要作用途径就是抵御紫外线、阻碍酪氨酸酶的活性和改变黑色素的生成途径,以及清除自由基对黑色素进行还原、脱色。所以开发全方位的美白化妆品成为了目前美白市场的主流。Based on the formation mechanism of melanin, the main pathway of whitening cosmetics is to resist ultraviolet rays, hinder the activity of tyrosinase, change the production pathway of melanin, and scavenge free radicals to reduce and decolorize melanin. Therefore, the development of all-round whitening cosmetics has become the mainstream of the current whitening market.
皮肤是人体裸露在外部的一个大面积器官,细胞与基质中的水分很容易流失。皮肤的表皮中没有血管,水分的来源只能靠真皮的渗透来供给,因此表皮是身体最容易缺水的部分。水分的缺失会影响皮肤细胞的分裂和分泌能力,减少色素的代谢,降低对自身的滋润作用。有效补充和保持皮肤的水分是减少皮肤出现色素积聚不可忽视的一个重要方面。因此,让皮肤保持滋润是祛斑美白的基础。The skin is a large-area organ exposed to the outside of the human body, and the water in the cells and matrix is easily lost. There are no blood vessels in the epidermis of the skin, and the source of moisture can only be supplied by the penetration of the dermis. Therefore, the epidermis is the most vulnerable part of the body to lack water. The lack of water will affect the division and secretion ability of skin cells, reduce the metabolism of pigment, and reduce the moisturizing effect on itself. Effectively replenishing and maintaining the skin's moisture is an important aspect that cannot be ignored in reducing the appearance of pigment accumulation in the skin. Therefore, keeping the skin moisturized is the basis for freckle removal and whitening.
目前的美白产品主要是抑制酪氨酸酶的活性,现虽有多种用于用于保健的化妆品,但由于种种原因,其使用并不尽人意,满足不了实际应用,因此,化妆品上的改进和创新势在必行。The current whitening products mainly inhibit the activity of tyrosinase. Although there are many kinds of cosmetics used for health care, due to various reasons, their use is not satisfactory and cannot meet the practical application. Therefore, the improvement of cosmetics and innovation is imperative.
发明内容Contents of the invention
针对上述情况,为克服现有技术之缺陷,本发明之目的就是提供一种兼具淡斑、保湿、防晒的中药化妆品,可有效解决兼具淡斑、保湿、防晒用化妆品的问题。In view of the above situation, in order to overcome the defects of the prior art, the purpose of the present invention is to provide a Chinese medicine cosmetic with lightening, moisturizing and sunscreen, which can effectively solve the problem of cosmetics with lightening, moisturizing and sunscreen.
本发明解决的技术方案是,该化妆品是由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物5-10%、天冬提取物0.1-1%、红花提取物5-10%、鸡冠花提取物5-20%、抗坏血酸(维生素C)2-3%、橄榄油12-17%、棕榈酸异丙酯4-6%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.4-0.6%、甘油4-6%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.08-0.12%、乙醇6-8%,余量为去离子水(即加去离子水至100%),其中,所述的人参提取物是,人参用质量浓度50%的乙醇为溶剂,溶剂的用量为人参重量的6-8倍,加热回流提取2次,一次一小时,合并两次乙醇提取液,回收乙醇,浓缩至相对密度1.2-1.4的浸膏,-80℃冷冻24小时,真空干燥得冻干粉,即成人参提取物;The technical solution solved by the present invention is that the cosmetic is made by mixing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 5-10% of ginseng extract, 0.1-1% of asparagus extract, 5-10% of safflower extract, cockscomb Flower extract 5-20%, ascorbic acid (vitamin C) 2-3%, olive oil 12-17%, isopropyl palmitate 4-6%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.4-0.6%, glycerin 4- 6%, 0.08-0.12% methyl p-hydroxybenzoate, 6-8% ethanol, and the balance is deionized water (that is, add deionized water to 100%), wherein the ginseng extract is, the quality of ginseng Ethanol with a concentration of 50% is used as a solvent. The amount of solvent used is 6-8 times the weight of ginseng. Heating and reflux extracting twice, one hour at a time, combining the two ethanol extracts, recovering ethanol, and concentrating to an extract with a relative density of 1.2-1.4 , freeze at -80°C for 24 hours, and vacuum-dry to obtain a freeze-dried powder, namely the adult ginseng extract;
所述的天冬提取物是,天冬用质量浓度70%的乙醇为溶剂,溶剂的用量为天冬重量的6-8倍,加热回流提取2次,一次一小时,合并两次乙醇提取液,回收乙醇,浓缩至相对密度1.2-1.4的浸膏,-80℃冷冻24小时,真空干燥得冻干粉,即成天冬提取物;The described asparagus extract is that asparagus uses ethanol with a mass concentration of 70% as a solvent, and the amount of solvent is 6-8 times the weight of asparagus, heated and refluxed for 2 extractions, one hour at a time, and the two ethanol extracts are combined , recovering ethanol, concentrating to an extract with a relative density of 1.2-1.4, freezing at -80°C for 24 hours, and vacuum-drying to obtain a lyophilized powder, which is the asparagus extract;
所述的红花提取物是,红花用质量浓度50%的乙醇为溶剂,溶剂的用量为红花重量的6-8倍,加热回流提取2次,一次一小时,合并两次乙醇提取液,回收乙醇,浓缩至相对密度1.2-1.4的浸膏,-80℃冷冻24小时,真空干燥得冻干粉,即成红花提取物;The described safflower extract is that safflower uses ethanol with a mass concentration of 50% as a solvent, and the amount of solvent used is 6-8 times the weight of safflower, heated and refluxed for 2 extractions, one hour at a time, and the two ethanol extracts are combined , recovering ethanol, concentrating to an extract with a relative density of 1.2-1.4, freezing at -80°C for 24 hours, and drying in a vacuum to obtain a freeze-dried powder, which is the safflower extract;
所述的鸡冠花提取物是,鸡冠花用质量浓度90%乙醇为溶剂,溶剂的用量为鸡冠花重量的6-8倍,加热回流提取2次,一次一小时,合并两次乙醇提取液,回收乙醇,浓缩至相对密度1.2-1.4的浸膏,-80℃冷冻24小时,真空干燥得冻干粉,即成鸡冠花提取物。The extract of Celosia celosia is that Celosia celosia uses 90% ethanol as a solvent, and the amount of solvent is 6-8 times of the weight of Celosia celosia, and it is heated and refluxed for 2 extractions, one hour at a time, and the ethanol extracts are combined twice, Recover ethanol, concentrate to the extract with a relative density of 1.2-1.4, freeze at -80°C for 24 hours, and vacuum-dry to obtain a freeze-dried powder, which is the cockscomb extract.
本发明组方科学合理,具有补气养阴,活血祛瘀、保湿美白、强体防晒,能有效清除自由基、抑制酪氨酸酶的活性、加强皮肤新陈代谢,减少紫外线的对皮肤的伤害,天然无刺激,达到全面美白皮肤的功效,是化妆品上的一大创新,具有突出的经济和社会效益。The composition of the invention is scientific and reasonable, has the functions of invigorating qi and nourishing yin, promoting blood circulation and removing blood stasis, moisturizing and whitening, strengthening sun protection, can effectively remove free radicals, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, strengthen skin metabolism, and reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin. Natural and non-irritating, it achieves the effect of comprehensive whitening of the skin. It is a major innovation in cosmetics and has outstanding economic and social benefits.
具体实施方式detailed description
以下结合实施例对本发明的具体实施方式作说明。The specific implementation of the present invention will be described below in conjunction with the examples.
本发明在具体实施中,可由以下实施例给出。The present invention can be provided by the following examples in concrete implementation.
实施例1Example 1
本发明在具体实施中,由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物7-8%、天冬提取物0.4-0.6%、红花提取物7-8%、鸡冠花提取物10-15%、抗坏血酸2.3-2.6%、橄榄油13-16%、棕榈酸异丙酯4.5-5.5%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.45-0.55%、甘油4.5-5.5%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.09-0.11%、乙醇6.5-7.5%,余量为去离子水。In the specific implementation of the present invention, the following raw materials are uniformly mixed in weight percentage: 7-8% of ginseng extract, 0.4-0.6% of asparagus extract, 7-8% of safflower extract, 10% of cockscomb extract -15%, ascorbic acid 2.3-2.6%, olive oil 13-16%, isopropyl palmitate 4.5-5.5%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.45-0.55%, glycerin 4.5-5.5%, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate Ester 0.09-0.11%, ethanol 6.5-7.5%, and the balance is deionized water.
实施例2Example 2
本发明在具体实施中,也可由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物5%、天冬提取物0.5%、红花提取物5%、鸡冠花提取物8%、抗坏血酸2%、橄榄油15%、棕榈酸异丙酯5%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.5%、甘油5%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.1%、乙醇7%,加去离子水至100%。In the specific implementation of the present invention, it can also be prepared by mixing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 5% ginseng extract, 0.5% asparagus extract, 5% safflower extract, 8% cockscomb extract, and 2% ascorbic acid , olive oil 15%, isopropyl palmitate 5%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.5%, glycerin 5%, methyl paraben 0.1%, ethanol 7%, add deionized water to 100%.
实施例3Example 3
本发明在具体实施中,还可由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物9%、天冬提取物0.7%、红花提取物7%、鸡冠花提取物15%、抗坏血酸2%、橄榄油15%、棕榈酸异丙酯5%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.5%、甘油4%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.1%、乙醇8%,加去离子水至100%。In the specific implementation of the present invention, it can also be prepared by mixing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 9% of ginseng extract, 0.7% of asparagus extract, 7% of safflower extract, 15% of cockscomb extract, and 2% of ascorbic acid , olive oil 15%, isopropyl palmitate 5%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.5%, glycerin 4%, methyl paraben 0.1%, ethanol 8%, add deionized water to 100%.
实施例4Example 4
本发明在具体实施中,由以下重量百分比计的原料混合均匀制成:人参提取物10%、天冬提取物1%、红花提取物10%、鸡冠花提取物18%、抗坏血酸(维生素C)2.5%、橄榄油16%、棕榈酸异丙酯6%、聚氧乙烯壬基酚醚0.4%、甘油6%、对羟基苯甲酸甲酯0.11%、乙醇8%,加去离子水至100%。In the specific implementation of the present invention, it is prepared by mixing the following raw materials in percentage by weight: 10% of ginseng extract, 1% of asparagus extract, 10% of safflower extract, 18% of cockscomb extract, ascorbic acid (vitamin C ) 2.5%, olive oil 16%, isopropyl palmitate 6%, polyoxyethylene nonylphenol ether 0.4%, glycerin 6%, methyl p-hydroxybenzoate 0.11%, ethanol 8%, add deionized water to 100 %.
本发明组分中,其中:Among the components of the present invention, wherein:
鸡冠花采用其干燥花的提取物,其中含有丰富的营养物质,如氨基酸、微量元素以及天然酶等,可用作抗氧化剂、皮肤美白剂、保湿剂等。鸡冠花含有丰富的营养物质,如蛋白质,脂肪和叶酸、泛酸,维生素B1等多种维生素,21种氨基酸,13种微量元素和50种以上的天然酶。含有黄酮类的生物活性成分和一些红色素。Celosia uses extracts from its dried flowers, which are rich in nutrients such as amino acids, trace elements, and natural enzymes, which can be used as antioxidants, skin whitening agents, moisturizers, etc. Celosia is rich in nutrients, such as protein, fat, folic acid, pantothenic acid, vitamin B1 and other vitamins, 21 kinds of amino acids, 13 kinds of trace elements and more than 50 kinds of natural enzymes. Contains bioactive ingredients of flavonoids and some red pigments.
红花为菊科红花属草本植物,本品采用其干花,含有黄酮类化合物、酚酸类和亚油酸等。红花提取物具有活血、抗炎、抗氧化等作用,通过改善皮肤血液循环、促进皮肤新陈代谢、清除自由基、抑制黑色素沉积、加速消斑脱色、吸收紫外线,发挥美白、防晒、抗衰老的功效。Safflower is a herbaceous plant of the genus Safflower in the Compositae family. This product uses its dried flowers, which contain flavonoids, phenolic acids and linoleic acid. Safflower extract has the effects of promoting blood circulation, anti-inflammation, and anti-oxidation. By improving skin blood circulation, promoting skin metabolism, scavenging free radicals, inhibiting melanin deposition, accelerating spot depigmentation, and absorbing ultraviolet rays, it exerts the effects of whitening, sun protection, and anti-aging .
人参主要用其干燥根提取物,主要含有40多种人参皂苷的单体,还含有人参多糖等人参胆碱等生物碱,人参提取物可作为皮肤的美白剂、抗炎剂、保湿剂和防晒剂。Ginseng mainly uses its dried root extract, which mainly contains more than 40 kinds of ginsenoside monomers, and also contains ginseng polysaccharides and other alkaloids such as ginseng choline. Ginseng extract can be used as skin whitening agent, anti-inflammatory agent, moisturizing agent and sunscreen agent.
天冬又名天门冬,本品采用其干燥根的提取物,主要成分是皂苷,还有氨基酸类。提取物可用作抗氧化剂、皮肤老化防治剂、美白剂和保湿剂。提取物还具有抑菌作用,对金黄色葡萄球菌、柠檬色葡萄球菌、白色葡萄球菌及枯草杆菌均有不同程度的抑菌作用,有利于化妆品的储藏。本发明上述四种中药组分配比为Asparagus, also known as asparagus, this product uses the extract of its dried root, the main components are saponins and amino acids. The extract can be used as antioxidant, skin aging preventive agent, whitening agent and moisturizing agent. The extract also has antibacterial effect, and has different degrees of antibacterial effect on Staphylococcus aureus, Staphylococcus citrinus, Staphylococcus albus and Bacillus subtilis, which is beneficial to the storage of cosmetics. The above-mentioned four kinds of Chinese medicine composition distribution ratios of the present invention are
本发明中人参自古以来拥有“百草之王”的美誉,更被东方医学界誉为“滋阴补生,扶正固本”之极品。天冬具有养阴清热,润肺滋肾的功效。红花含黄酮、酚类和脂肪酸等,号称“亚油酸之王”,具有活血化瘀之功效。鸡冠花含有丰富的营养物质,微量元素、天然酶,黄酮类的生物活性成分和一些红色素。The ginseng of the present invention has the good reputation of "the king of all herbs" since ancient times, and is also praised as the ultimate product of "nourishing yin and nourishing health, strengthening the body and strengthening the body" by the oriental medicine circle. Asparagus has the effects of nourishing yin and clearing away heat, nourishing the lungs and nourishing the kidneys. Safflower contains flavonoids, phenols and fatty acids, etc. It is known as the "king of linoleic acid" and has the effect of promoting blood circulation and removing blood stasis. Celosia is rich in nutrients, trace elements, natural enzymes, bioactive components of flavonoids and some red pigments.
根据中医学的整体观念,皮肤是人体的一部分,肺主皮毛,为娇脏,肺气阴不足,皮肤易干枯、萎黄;心其华在面,主血脉,瘀血阻滞,皮肤易斑点沉积。方中人参补气、天冬滋阴、红花、鸡冠花活血化瘀 ,以上中药成分与其它组分相配合,协同增效、补气养阴,活血祛瘀、保湿美白、强体防晒,能有效清除自由基、抑制酪氨酸酶的活性、加强皮肤新陈代谢,减少紫外线的对皮肤的伤害,天然无刺激,达到全面美白皮肤的功效。并经试验取得了非常满意的有益技术效果,有关试验资料如下:According to the overall concept of traditional Chinese medicine, the skin is a part of the human body, and the lungs govern the fur, which is a delicate organ. If the lungs are deficient in qi and yin, the skin is prone to dryness and chlorosis; . Ginseng invigorates qi, asparagus nourishes yin, safflower and cockscomb promotes blood circulation and removes blood stasis. The above traditional Chinese medicine ingredients cooperate with other components to synergize, invigorate qi and nourish yin, promote blood circulation and remove blood stasis, moisturize and whiten, strengthen the body and sunscreen, It can effectively scavenge free radicals, inhibit the activity of tyrosinase, strengthen skin metabolism, reduce the damage of ultraviolet rays to the skin, natural and non-irritating, and achieve the effect of comprehensive whitening of the skin. And achieved very satisfactory beneficial technical effects through tests, the relevant test data are as follows:
1.对黑色素细胞分裂的抑制1. Inhibition of melanocyte division
小鼠B16黑色素细胞黑色素合成功能与人正常的皮肤黑色素细胞基本一致, 黑色素细胞按1×104cell/孔,每孔100ul,接种于96孔板, 在37℃,5%的CO2培养箱中培养2天;吸取走原来的培养液,分别加入用完全培养液。将待测上述四种中药提取按比例混合,稀释成5种不同终浓度的溶液500 mg/L、250 mg/L、125 mg/L、62.5mg/L、31.25mg/L,每一浓度设5个平行孔,对照组不加药物,加等量的完全培养基,在培养箱中继续培养3天。去除培养上清,每孔加入0.5mg.L-1 的MTT 100μL,继续培养4h,并加入150μL DMSO溶解紫色沉淀,用酶标仪在波长为570nm(/630nm),测定吸光度(A)。其他孔的吸光度值除以正常孔的平均吸光度值,乘以100%,作为每孔的生存率,抑制率=1-生存率;根据抑制率曲线,计算得出待测物的致死浓度范围以及IC50半数致死浓度,即为该中药美白成分的毒性指标(见表一);The melanin synthesis function of mouse B16 melanocytes is basically the same as that of normal human skin melanocytes. Melanocytes are seeded in 96-well plates at 1×10 4 cell/well, 100ul per well, and placed in a 37°C, 5% CO 2 incubator Cultivate in medium for 2 days; absorb the original culture medium and add the complete culture medium respectively. The four kinds of traditional Chinese medicine extracts to be tested were mixed in proportion and diluted into 5 solutions with different final concentrations of 500 mg/L, 250 mg/L, 125 mg/L, 62.5 mg/L, and 31.25 mg/L. For 5 parallel wells, no drug was added to the control group, and the same amount of complete medium was added, and the culture was continued for 3 days in the incubator. Remove the culture supernatant, add 100 μL of 0.5 mg.L -1 MTT to each well, continue to incubate for 4 h, and add 150 μL DMSO to dissolve the purple precipitate, and measure the absorbance (A) at a wavelength of 570 nm (/630 nm) with a microplate reader. The absorbance value of other wells is divided by the average absorbance value of normal wells, multiplied by 100%, as the survival rate of each well, inhibition rate=1-survival rate; according to the inhibition rate curve, calculate the lethal concentration range of the test substance and The IC50 median lethal concentration is the toxicity index of the whitening ingredients of the traditional Chinese medicine (see Table 1);
表一 对黑色素细胞的抑制率Table 1 Inhibitory rate of melanocytes
注:和对照组比较:▲P﹤0.05Note: Compared with the control group: ▲P﹤0.05
随着中药美白成分浓度的增高,对黑色素细胞的抑制率也相应增大,毒性指标为250mg/ml,也就是中药美白成分在美白护肤霜中不能超过这个浓度。As the concentration of Chinese medicine whitening ingredients increases, the inhibition rate of melanocytes also increases correspondingly, and the toxicity index is 250mg/ml, which means that the concentration of Chinese medicine whitening ingredients in whitening skin creams cannot exceed this concentration.
2 对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制2 Inhibition of tyrosinase activity
中药美白成分(见以上浓度)作用3d 后,弃去上清液,用pH6.8 PBS冲洗两遍,每孔加90uL含1%(体积分数)Triton X-100 的PBS。冰浴中超声破碎, 每孔加10uL 1×10-2mol/L的L-dopa,37℃孵育60min,采用紫外分光光度计于490nm处比色,空白孔调零,测各孔吸光度值(见表二)。酪氨酸酶活性抑制率=(1-各浓度平均吸光度值/对照组平均吸光度值)*100%After 3 days of treatment with traditional Chinese medicine whitening ingredients (see the concentration above), the supernatant was discarded, washed twice with pH 6.8 PBS, and 90uL of PBS containing 1% (volume fraction) Triton X-100 was added to each well. Sonicate in an ice bath, add 10uL 1×10-2mol/L L-dopa to each well, incubate at 37°C for 60min, use a UV spectrophotometer to measure color at 490nm, set the blank well to zero, and measure the absorbance of each well (see Table II). Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity=(1-average absorbance value of each concentration/average absorbance value of control group)*100%
表二 酪氨酸酶活性的抑制率Table 2 Inhibition rate of tyrosinase activity
从表二可以看出,随着中药美白成分浓度的降低,对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制效果也随之降低,也就是说,随着药物浓度的增加,其抑制效果也随之增加,具有对酪氨酸酶活性的抑制作用。It can be seen from Table 2 that as the concentration of traditional Chinese medicine whitening ingredients decreases, the inhibitory effect on tyrosinase activity also decreases, that is to say, as the drug concentration increases, its inhibitory effect also increases. Inhibition of tyrosinase activity.
3美白护肤霜对色素的淡化效果3 The lightening effect of whitening skin cream on pigment
选择肤色较深的男女志愿者各15名,早晚洁面后对右脸用含中药美白成分的护肤霜进行早晚间隔12h的涂抹,左脸作为对照,只涂抹表二的基质成分,试用四周,根据感官评价填写试用评价表。最高分4分为效果显著,最低分为1,对比效果不明显。分别在第一周(表三)、第二周(表四)、第三周(表五)、第四周(表六)利用卡方进行统计。Choose 15 male and female volunteers with darker skin. After cleansing in the morning and evening, apply the skin cream containing traditional Chinese medicine whitening ingredients on the right face at intervals of 12 hours. Sensory Evaluation Fill out the trial evaluation form. The highest score is 4, the effect is significant, and the lowest score is 1, the contrast effect is not obvious. In the first week (Table 3), the second week (Table 4), the third week (Table 5), and the fourth week (Table 6) the chi-square was used for statistics.
表三 涂抹第一周后评价效果Table 3 Evaluation of the effect after the first week of application
无差异No difference
表四 涂抹第二周后评价效果Table 4 Evaluation of the effect after the second week of application
P﹤0.05P﹤0.05
表五 涂抹第三周后评价效果Table 5 Evaluation of the effect after the third week of application
P﹤0.05P﹤0.05
表六 涂抹第四周后评价效果Table 6 Evaluation of the effect after the fourth week of application
P﹤0.05P﹤0.05
涂抹一周时间进行对比观察,左右半边脸没有明显对比,但随着时间的延长,使用二周、三周、四周后,右脸出现了明显的斑点淡化效果(P﹤0.05)。After smearing for a week for comparison and observation, there is no obvious contrast between the left and right sides of the face, but as time goes on, after two, three, and four weeks of use, the right face has an obvious effect of lightening spots (P﹤0.05).
4 美白护肤霜的防晒作用4 The sun protection effect of whitening skin cream
取大鼠5只(体重 400g-450g),乙醚麻醉后小心剪去背部两侧对称部位3cm×3cm的毛发,置鼠笼中,可自由活动,置于紫外灭菌灯下(25W 1支, 距离100cm),在背部右侧皮肤上均匀涂布美白护肤霜适量,左侧只涂抹不含中药成分的膏体,每天置紫外灯下照射8h(在12h重复麻醉涂布防晒霜1次), 取出继续饲养7d 后处死,用棉球交替蘸水和乙醇轻拭皮肤表面以除去残留霜剂, 用游标尺测量其厚度。 Take 5 rats (body weight 400g-450g), carefully cut off the symmetrical parts of 3cm×3cm on both sides of the back after ether anesthesia, put them in a mouse cage, and place them under an ultraviolet sterilizing lamp (25W 1 stick, distance 100cm), apply an appropriate amount of whitening skin cream evenly on the skin on the right side of the back, and only apply paste without traditional Chinese medicine ingredients on the left side, and irradiate it under an ultraviolet lamp for 8 hours every day (repeat the anesthesia and apply sunscreen once in 12 hours), Take it out and continue to raise it for 7 days, then kill it, wipe the skin surface with a cotton ball alternately dipped in water and ethanol to remove the residual cream, and measure its thickness with a vernier.
表七 大鼠左右侧皮肤厚度测量表(单位:um)Table 7. Rat left and right side skin thickness measurement table (unit: um)
紫外线损伤可以增加表皮层细胞厚度,不仅破坏最外层的皮肤细胞,通过表皮到达真皮细胞,导致真皮细胞大量坏死和代谢紊乱,细胞内杂质无法代谢出去,丧失弹性,提早衰老,变得敏感,出现皱纹,厚度增加。从上表数据可看出,右侧皮肤比左侧要薄,大鼠背部右测的皮肤经美白护肤霜涂抹后,得到了一定的保护作用。Ultraviolet damage can increase the thickness of epidermal cells, not only destroy the outermost skin cells, but also reach the dermal cells through the epidermis, resulting in massive necrosis and metabolic disorders of dermal cells, impurity in cells cannot be metabolized, loss of elasticity, premature aging, and sensitivity. Wrinkles appear and thickness increases. It can be seen from the data in the above table that the skin on the right side is thinner than that on the left side, and the skin on the right side of the rat’s back has been protected to a certain extent after being applied with whitening skin cream.
5 美白护肤霜保湿性检测5 Moisturizing test of whitening skin cream
采用体外称重法(参照刘玮,张怀亮所编的皮肤科学与化妆品功效评价中所采用的称重法),在20℃恒温下,分别将5g美白护肤霜和5g基质均匀涂抹于两个培养皿瓶盖上,放置8h,每1h称出其水分的减少量,计算出保水量:残存水分质量/样品质量。Using the in vitro weighing method (refer to the weighing method used in Dermatology and Cosmetic Efficacy Evaluation edited by Liu Wei and Zhang Huailiang), at a constant temperature of 20°C, 5g of whitening skin cream and 5g of matrix were evenly applied to the two cultures. Put it on the bottle cap of the dish, let it stand for 8 hours, weigh the water reduction every 1 hour, and calculate the water retention: residual water mass/sample mass.
表八 美白护肤霜8h的保水量检测Table 8 Water retention test of whitening skin cream for 8 hours
从表八看,随着时间的延长,残存水分的量有一定的减少,经过8小时后,保水量能维持在一半以上,具有良好的保湿效果。It can be seen from Table 8 that with the prolongation of time, the amount of residual water decreases to a certain extent. After 8 hours, the water retention can be maintained at more than half, which has a good moisturizing effect.
总之,由以上试验可清楚的证明,本发明具有淡斑、保温、防晒之功效,有效用于人的皮肤防护保健,是化妆品上的一大创新,具有很强的实用价值,有显著的经济和社会效益。In a word, it can be clearly proved from the above tests that the present invention has the effects of lightening spots, keeping warm, and preventing sun, and is effectively used for human skin protection and health care. It is a great innovation in cosmetics, has strong practical value, and has significant economic benefits. and social benefits.
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