CA1088279A

CA1088279A - Slide fastener stringer

Info

Publication number: CA1088279A
Application number: CA283,641A
Authority: CA
Inventors: Hiroshi Yoshida; Yoshio Matsuda
Original assignee: Yoshida Kogyo KK
Current assignee: YKK Corp
Priority date: 1976-07-31
Filing date: 1977-07-28
Publication date: 1980-10-28
Also published as: ES230465U; CH622413A5; FR2360700A1; JPS5744323B2; BR7704994A; AT371507B; HK13180A; AU510260B2; BE857318A; DE2734344A1; IT1083041B; JPS5317451A; AU2746577A; ATA566777A; ES230465Y; FR2360700B1; SE434008B; NL7708425A; SE7708671L; DE2734344C2

Abstract

ABSTRACT OF THE DISCLOSURE
A slide fastener stringer has a warp-knitted tape including a pair of element-carrying edge portions and a central web portion extending between the edge portions. Each of the tape edge portions is formed with at least three different kinds of stitches, such as chain stitches, tricot stitches or two-needle overlap stitches, and single cord stitches. The web portion is formed with at least two out of the at least three different kinds of stitches. At least one of the edge portions includes a reinforcing warp yarn laid in an interwale groove thereof. A continuous chain of fastener elements of the helically coiled type is sewn to the above-mentioned one of the edge portions with threads passing through the warp yarn. The stringer presents an improvement in that when sewn to a garment fabric, it is free from getting puckered or wavey along the slide fastener chain.

Description

108~Z79 .~ "
The present invention relates to a slide fastener stringer having a warp-knitted tape supporting a row of coupling elements thereon.
There have been heretofore proposed various slide fastener stringers having warp-knitted tapes. They however have suffered from a common problem in that when sewn to a garment fabric, the slide fastener chain becomes puckered or wavy due to shrinkage resulting from the sewing operation of the tape. Further, the prior slide fastener stringers tend to be split open when bent in the longitudinal direction and subjected to a lateral pull, or tossed from beneath the slide fastener chain. Another disadvantage is that when severe lateral forces are applied to the fabric to which the stringers are attached, the knit stitches adjacent to the sewn seams are prone to shift out of place.
According to the inventisn, a slide fastener stringer comprises a tape of a warp-knitted structure including a pair of edge portions and a web portion extending between said edge portions. Each edge portion is formed with at least three different kinds of stitches, the web portion being formed with at least two out of the at least three different knnds of stitches. At least one of the edge por-tions includes a reinforcing warp yarn laid in an interwale groove therein. A row of fastener elements is sewn to the above-mentioned one of the edge portions with threads passing through the warp yarn.
It is an object of the present invention to provide a slide fastener stringer which, when sewn to a garment fabric, ~E

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10~8Z79 is free from getting puckered or wavy along the slide fastener -~
chain.
Another object of the present invention is to provide a slide fastener stringer that prevents the slide fastener chain from being split open even when bent in the longitudinal direction or tossed from beneath the chain.
Still another object of the present invention is to provide a slide fastener stringer which, when sewn to the fabric, has its knit stitches adjacent to the sewn seams kept from shifting out of place under severe external forces exert-ed laterally to the fabric.
Yet another object of the present invention is to pro-vide a slide fastener stringer that is highly stable and has a pleasing appearance.
These and other objects and advantages of the present invention will be readily apparent from the following descrip-tion of the drawings in which embodiments of the invention are shown by way of example.
Fig. 1 is a diagrammatic view of a stringer tape constructed in accordance with a first embodiment of the inven-tion;
Fig. 2 is a transverse cross-sectional view of the stringer tape shown in Fig. l;
Fig. 3 is a transverse cross-sectional view of the stringer tape of Fig. 1 with a row of fastener elements mounted thereon;
Figs. 4A through 4D are diagrams showing the guide bar movements for the knitting threads of the tape illustrated in Fig. l;
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10~8Z79 Fig. 5 is a diagram illustrating the threading of the guide bars for the tape of Fig. l;
Fig. 6 is a diagrammatic view of a stringer tape according to a second embodiment;
Fig. 7 is a transverse cross-sectional view of the stringer tape shown in Fig. 6 having a row of fastener ele-ments mounted thereon;
Figs. 8A through 8D are diagrams showing the guide bar movements for the knitting threads of the tape illustrated `
in Fig. 6;
Fig. 9 is a diagram illustrating the threading of the ~
guide bars for the tape of Fig. 6; ~ ;
Fig. 10 is a diagrammatic view of a stringer tape pro-vided in accordance with a third embodiment;
Fig. 11 is a transverse cross-sectional view of the stringer tape shown in Fig. 10;
Fig. 12 is a transverse cross-sectional view of the stringer tape of Fig. 10 with a row of fastener elements mount-ed thereon;
Fig. 13 is a transverse cross-sectional view of a pair of coupled stringers of Fig. 12;
~ Figs. 14A through 14~ are diagrams showing the guide ; bar movements for the knitting threads of the tape shown in Fig. 10;
Fig. 15 is a diagram showing the threading of the guide bars for the tape illustrated in Fig. 10;
Fig. 16 is a diagrammatic view of a stringer tape according to a fourth embodiment;

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lV8~3Z79 Figs. 17A through 17D are diagrams illustrating the guide bar movements for the knitting threads of the tape of Fig. 16; -Fig. 18 is a diagram showing the threading of the guide bars for the tape shown in Fig. 16;
Fig. 19 is a diagrammatic view of a stringer tape constructed in accordance with a fifth embodiment;
Figs. 20A through 20D are diagrams showing the guide bar movements for the knitting threads of the tape illustrated in Fig. 19;
Fig. 21 is a diagram showing the threading of the ~ ~ .
guide bars for the tape of Fig. 19;
Fig. 22 is a plan view of a slide fastener stringer of the invention;
Fig. 23 is a plan view of the coupled slide fastener stringers held under tension in the longitudinal direction thereof;
Fig. 24 is a plan view of the slide fastener stringer of Fig. 22 after being subjected to a post-treatment such as dyeing ; and Fig. 25 is a plan view of the stringer of Fig. 24 sewn to a garment fabric.
Fig. 1 shows a slide fastener stringer tape 30 of a warp-knitted structure comprising a pair of element-carrying longitudinal edge portions 31~32 and a central web portion 33 extending between the edge portions 31,32. Each of the edge portions 31,32 is formed with chain stitches 34, tricot stitches 35, and single cord stitches 36. Additionally, a pair of :' ~ 5 ~

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reinforcing warp yarns 37,38 are lald in outer two grooves 39,~0 defined between a flrst or outermost wale 41 and an ad~ac~nt second wale 42, and between th~ second wale 42 and an adjacent third wale 43, respectlvely, on each of the tape edge portions 31,32, these wales being provided by the chain stitches 34, tricot ~titches 35, and single cord stltches 36.
The chain stitch 34 has a stitch pattern of 1-0/0-1 ~Fig. 4A), the tricot stitch 35 has a stitch pattern of 1-2/1-0 ~under 1 over 1) ~Fig. 4~l, each of the reinforcing warp y~rns 37,38 has a stitch pattern of 0-0/0-0 ~Fig. 4C), and the single cord stitch 36 ha~ a stitch pattern of 0-1/4-3 (under 3 o~er 1) ~Fig. 4D).
The web portion 33 of the tape 30 includes the tricot stitches 35 and the single cord stitches 36, the web portion 30 being devoid of the chain stitche~ 34. Thus, the edge portions 31,32 are made thicker in structure than the ~eb portion 33 which is relatively coarse in the absence of the chaln stitches 34.
Each of the reinforcing warp yarns 37,38 has a thick-ness or diameter that is ~ubstantially the same a8 the width ofo~eeof the interwale grooves 39,40 ~o as to fill up the latter and be inserted in the knitted tape fsbric between the ad~acent wales and between upper and lower sinXer loops of the tr~cot and single cord ~titches for positional ~tability again~t dis-placement. The reinforcing yarn~ 37,38 may be ~ny bulky yarn~uch AS multifil~ment yarn, textured y~rn, spun yarn, or twist-ed yarn.
Fig. 5 ~llustr~tes the threading of the guide bars for ~088279 . .
producing the knitted tape fabric depicted in Fig. 1. A first guide bar for the chain stitches 34 is threaded 4 in, 4 out.
A second guide bar for the tricot stitches 35 is threaded 11 in, 1 out. A third guide bar for the reinforcing warp yarns ~
37,38 is threaded 2 in, 8 out, and makes no shogging movement ~-during knitting operation. Finally, a fourth guide bar for the single cord stitches 36 is threaded 9 in, 3 out.
As illustrated in Fig. 2, the reinforcing warp yarns 37,38 swell somewhat beyond a flat facè side 44 of the tape 30 10 which is free of the wales. A row of fastener elements 45 of the helically coiled type is sewn with threads 36 to the flat side 44 of the tape 30, the lower leg portions of the elements `
45 being held in intimate pressed contact with the outermost reinforcing warp yarn 37 (Fig. 3). The reinforcing warp yarn 15 38 next to the outer most warp yarn 37 is also held in contact with the lower leg portions or connecting portions of the ele-ments. The sewing threads 46 pass through the outermost warp yarn 37 that is firmly supported in the tape fabric. The sewing threads 46 themselves are firmly secured to the warp yarn 37 20 and enable the fastener elements 45 to be fixed relatively to ;~
the tape fabric.
According to a second embodiment shown in Figs. 6 through 9, a stringer tape 30a includes a pair of the reinforc-ing warp yarns 37,38 mounted only on the element-supporting 25 edge portion 31 (Figs. 6, 7 and 9~. To meet the requirements for tape edge strength, an additional~reinforcing warp yarn or yarns can be provided. Conversely, only one reinforcing warp yarn will suffice for the tape edge portion 31 to support relatively small-sized fastener elements.

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Figs. 10 through 15 illustrate a stringer tape 30b according to a third embodiment in which each of the outer-most chain stitches 47 is made of a yarn, such as a stranded yarn, thicker than those for the remaining chain stitches, to thereby widen and reinforce the outermost wale 48, as shown especially in Figs. 10, 11 and 15. An advantage of the widened wale 48 is that when the two opposed stringers 49,50 are coupled together, a clearance or gap 51 between the con-fronting edges of the stringers can be held at a minimum (Fig. 13). Accordingly, the coupled rows of fastener elements 52,53 are protected from the reverse side of the stringer tapes 30b,30_. Further, the outermost wales 48,48 have an increased degree of strength such that the tape edges are prevented from being buckled or curled, thereby retaining the fastener elements 52,53 in stabilized coupling condition. The fastener elements 52,53 shown in Fig. 13 are relatively large in size and are sewn to the tape edge portions with two rows of threads 54 that pass through the pair of reinforcing warp yarns 37,38, respectively, the lower legs of the elements being pressed against the warp yarns 37,38.
A stringer tape 30_ according to a fourth embodiment illustrated in Figs. 16 through 18 has a pair of element-carrying edge portions 55,56 and a central web portion 57 dis-posed between the edge portions 55,56. Each of the tape edge portions 55,56 includes chain stitches 58 in the lay of 1-0/0-1 (Fig. 17A), two-needle overlap tricot stitches 59 in the lay of 0-2/3-1 (under 1 over 2) (Fig. 17B), a pair of reinforcing warp yarns 60,61 in the lay of 0-0/0-0 (Fig. 17_) inserted in the two outermost interwale grooves, and single cord stitches ., .
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62 in the lay of 4-3/0-1 (Fig. 17D). The web portion 57 com- ~
prises the two-needle overlap stitches 59 and the single cord ~;
stitches 62, but is devoid of the chain stitches 58. The first guide bar is threaded 4 in, 3 out. The second guide bar for the two-needle overlap tricot stitches 59 is threaded 1 in, 1 out. The third guide bar is threaded 2 in, 7 out, and the fourth guide bar 8 in, 3 out.
According to a fifth embodiment illustrated in Figs.
19 through 21, a pair of tape edge portions 63,64 of a stringer tape 30d have the same knit fabric structure as that of the tape edge portions 31,32 according to the third embodiment shown in Fig. 10. However, a centraL web portion 65 comprises chain stitches 66 and single cord stitches 67, but is devoid of any tricot stitches.

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Throughout all of the embodiments mentioned above, the ~ ;

single cord stitches 36,62 and 67 may be laid in a 0-1/3-2 .
- pattern (under 2 over 1). ~-The slide fastener stringer thus constructed is prevent-ed from becoming wavy or puckered when sewn onto a garment `;

fabric. More specifically, when sewing a row of fastener ele-, ments 68 onto an edge portion 69 of the stringer tape (Fig. 22), the sewing needle (not shown) and sewing threads 70 penetrate the~reinforcing warp yarn 37(60) filled in the interwale groove of the tape fabric. The reinforcing warp chain 37(60) is then expanded where it receives the sewing needle and the sewing threads, and at the same time becomes tortuous. This permits the adjacent wales to be displaced sideways apart and the tape edge portion 69 of thickened structure including the triple-_ g _ ... .

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, , ~ , ply knitting loops to be contracted or shrinked lengthwise.
As a result, the stringer 71 becomes curved with its element-carrying edge portion 69 located inwardly, as shown in Fig. 22.
The extent of curvature of the stringer 71 is such that it will be substantially straightened out during post-treatments such as dyeing and thermosetting.
For such post-treatments, a pair of the stringers 71,71 are coupled together and held under tension lengthwise thereof as illustrated in Fig. 23. At this time, a central portion 72 and an element-free edge portion 73 of each of the tapes become slackened, since the element-carrying edge portions 69,63 are shrinked lengthwise. Thus, greater tensile load is exerted to the element-carrying edge portions 69,69 than to the element-free edge portions 73,73. With the stringers 71,71 lS held under tension, they are subjected to the post treatments ~ -~
such as dyeing and thermosetting. During such process, greater ~` ;
heat-shrinkage appears on the element-free edge portions 69,69 than on the element-carrying edge portions 73,73.
Accordingly, the extent to which the stringer 71 has been originally warped or curved (Fig. 22) is reduced or some-what rectified after the post-treatment, as shown in Fig. 24 When the stringer 71 thus treated is sewn onto a marginal edge 74 of a garment fabric 75, the sewing needle (not shown) and sewing threads 76 pass through the central portion 72 of ~he stringer tape where it is coarsely knitted.
Since the coarse knit structure of the tape has therein knitting yarns held under less tension, it allows the sewing needle and sewing threads 76 to pierce therethrough relatively easily and .''. - ' ,- ' ~ .

~088Z79 can take up their sidewise pressing forces. The central tape portion 72 undergoes less contraction or shrinkage when the stringer 71 is sewn to the garment fabric 75. The slightly curved stringer 71 as shown in Fig. 24 is therefore straighten- ~
ed out upon being attached to the garment fabric 75. With `-the fastener stringers according to the present invention, the stringer chain of the slide fastener attached to a garment is prevented from being wavy or puckered.
The tape knit structure of the fastener stringer according to the present invention is comprises of loop-forming ~-threads without any weft or transverse inlaid threads. The thus formed knit tape has greater resistance to stretch. In particular, the use of the reinforcing warp yarns 37(38,60,61) -adds to resistance to longitudinal stretch of the tape. Fur-lS ther~ the element-supporting edge portion 69 (31,3-2,55,56,63, 64) is formed by the triple-ply loops including the chain stitches, tricot stitches or two-needle overlap tricot stitches, - -and single cord stitches, and additionally by the reinforcing -warp yarns. The edge portion is relatively thick and is prevent-ed from being bent sharply and stretahed largely. Therefor~
the fastener chain supported on the fastener stringers in accordance with the present invention is protected from split-opening when bent in the longitudinal direction thereof or toss-ed thereb0neath.
The central portion 72 (33,57,65) of the stringer tape is a coarsely knitted structure in the absence of transverse inlaid threads, but including only two kinds of stitches, such that it is less movable or displaceable when subjected to severe lateral stresses after the stringers 71 are sewn to the garment fabric 75; that is, knit stitches around the sewing threads do not shift out of place. Therefore, sewn condition of the fastener stringers 71 is highly stable rela-tively to the fabric 75. Another advantage of the stringer tape thus knitted solely with the loop-forming threads is that it provides soft-touch feel and pleasing appearance.
The element-carrying edge portion including the three kinds of stitches and the reinforcing warp yarns is dense and pro-videsdurable support for the fastener elements thereon.
The fastener stringer according to the present inven-tio~ includes a warp-knitted tape structure formed with the -three kinds of stitches and reinforcing warp yarns in the edge portions t the tape being greatly stretch-resistant whlle ~ -under tension in finishing processes such as thermosetting sewing, dyeing, and parts-assembling. There will be less possibility of the ~pe being set in stretched condition.
Therefore, there will be a minimum of tape shrinkage when laundered.
There have been disclosed several embodiments of the invention presently contemplated. However it is to be under-stood that various changes and modifications may be made thereto without departing fxom the scope of the appended claims.

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Claims

The embodiments of the invention in which an exclusive property or privilege is claimed are defined as follows:

1. A slide fastener stringer comprising: a tape of a warp-knitted structure including a pair of edge portions and a web portion extending between said edge portions, each of said edge portions being formed with at least three different kinds of stitches, said web portion being formed with at least two out of said at least three different kinds of stitches, at least one of said edge portions including a reinforcing warp yarn laid in an interwale groove therein; and a continuous chain of fastener elements of the helically coiled type sewn to said one of said edge portions with threads passing through said reinforcing warp yarn.

2. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 1, both of said edge portions including said warp yarn.

3. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 2, said warp yarn being one of multifilament yarn, textured yarn, spun yarn, and twisted yarn.

4. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 1, said one of said edge portions including said warp yarn in a plurality laid in adjacent interwale grooves therein.

5. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 4, said one of said edge portions including said warp yarn in a pair, said sewing threads passing through an outermost one of said warp yarns to thereby keep said elements in pressed contact with said outermost warp yarn, said elements being held in contact with the other warp yarn.

6. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 4, said one of said edge portions including said warp yarns in a pair, said sewing threads passing through said pair of said warp yarns to thereby keep said elements in pressed contact with said pair of said warp yarns.

7. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 1, said at least three different kinds of stitches comprising chain stitches, tricot stitches, and single cord stitches, and said at least two out of said at least three different kinds of stitches comprising tricot stitches and single cord stitches.

8. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 7, one of said chain stitches which is located outermost of said one of said edge portions is made of a yarn thicker than that of which the remaining chain stitches are made.

9. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 7, said chain stitches being in a 1-0/0-1 pattern, said tricot stitches in a 1-2/1-0 pattern, and said single cord stitches in a 0-1/4-3 pattern.

10. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 1, said at least three different kinds) of stitches comprising chain stitches, two-needle overlap tricot stitches, and single cord stitches, and at least two out of said at least three different kinds of stitches comprising two-needle overlap tricot stitches and single cord stitches.

11. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 10, said chain stitches being in a 1-0/0-1 pattern, said two-needle, overlap tricot stitches in a 0-2/3-1 pattern, and said single cord stitches in a 0-1/4-3 pattern.

12. A slide fastener stringer according to claim 1, said at least three different kinds of stitches comprising chain stitches, tricot stitches, and single cord stitches, and said at least two out of said at least three different kinds of stitches comprising chain stitches and single cord stitches.