AU656830B2

AU656830B2 - A cosmetic or dermatological composition containing a diol ester

Info

Publication number: AU656830B2
Application number: AU30424/92A
Authority: AU
Inventors: Helmut Traitler; Jean-Louis Viret
Original assignee: Societe des Produits Nestle SA; Nestle SA
Current assignee: Societe des Produits Nestle SA
Priority date: 1992-01-08
Filing date: 1992-12-24
Publication date: 1995-02-16
Anticipated expiration: 2012-12-24
Also published as: BR9300017A; ES2079083T3; DE69205560T2; JPH072620A; FI925930A0; KR0179388B1; MX9207467A; CA2086689A1; EP0550779A1; KR930016084A; NO930042L; EP0550779B1; NO301455B1; ZA9210076B; FI103710B; FI925930L; DE69205560D1; US5474775A; DK0550779T3; NZ245628A

Abstract

The diesters of 2,3-butanediol and of C16 - C22 fatty acid as emollient and viscosity agents lend themselves to the manufacture of cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions or anhydrous compositions which have excellent physicochemical and feel properties.

Description

1 656830 AUlSTRALIA PATENTS ACT 1990 COMPLETE SPEC IFICAT ION FOR A STANDARD PATENT

ORIGINAL

I Name of Applicant: o* Actual Inventors: Address for Service: .:Invention Title: SOCIETE DES PRODUITS NESTLE S.A.

Helmut Traitler and Jean-Louis Viret SHELSTON WATERS Clarence Street SYDNEY NSW 2000 "A COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION CONTAINING A DIOL ESTER" 0 9 The following statement is a full description of this invention, including the best method of performing it known to us:la This invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition containing a diester of 2,3-butanediol and a fatty acid, more particularly a

C

16 22 fatty acid, as a viscosity agent and emollient, together with a cosmetical or dermatological carrier.

In cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing a fatty phase of the emulsion type or anhydrous type, esters, hydrocarbons and glycerides are often used as viscosity agents and emollients.

The principal requirements which these compounds are expected to satisfy are as follows: they should be miscible in virtually any ratio with the esters, fats and liposoluble vitamins 15 commonly used for cosmetic and galenic purposes; e e they should preferably be colourless and substantially odourless; their dissolving power should enable them to act as a vehicle for liposoluble active principles; they should preferably be readily emulsifiable; they should not adversely affect the rheological properties, particularly the viscosity and thixotropy, of the end products; and they should have good sensorial or organoleptic qualities, i.e. they should impart to the end products a pleasant sensation on the skin, for example through their ready spreadability.

lb It has been found that diesters of 2,3butanedio).

and fatty acids, more particularly C~ 2 2 fatty acids, show the properties mentioned above to a remarkable degree.

0C C

C.

tee.

OCCC

C

C. CC S. C

C

SSOS

CC

C C

C.

C

C C U, *C C CCCCC

CC

C S

CCC

CCC.

C

Ceo.

The above-mentioned compounda which enter into the composition according to the invention and a process for their production are described in patent application EP-A- 0 465 689.

The nature of the constituent fatty acid(s) of the esters and their proportions are dictated by the physicochemical, chemical stability and sensorial properties required for a particular cosmetic application. Accordingly, the fatty acids are preferably saturated types, such as palmitic, myristic, stearic and lauric acid, and monounsaturated or diunsaturated types, such as oleic and linoleic acid, with a predominance of oleic, stearic and palmitic acids.

Thus, if the ester predominantly contains oleic acid for example, it will be present in the form of an oil at ambient temperature, for example 20 C, with essentially emollient properties, i.e. with a smoothing and softening effect on the skin. If the ester predominantly contains saturated fatty acids, for example stearic and palmitic 20 acid, it will be in the form of a crystallized solid at 20°C and, in addition, will act as a viscosity agent by virtue of its consistency.

The preferr, compounds mentioned above may be used in virtually any water-based cosmetic or galenic preparations, 25 such as for example creams, milks, shampoos in the form of water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions, or anhydrous formu- Slations such as, for example, bath oils, massage oils, sun oils, balms, foundations and lipsticks.

A composition according to the invention preferably 0" 30 contains 0.5 to 80% by weight of the diol diester defined above.

In such a composition, the fatty phase may contain animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils. It may also contain waxes, long-chain alcohols, thickening or gelling agents. Where it is in the form of an emulsion, a cosmetic I ,4 3 composition may contain 1 to 20% by weight of an emul- .ifier.

In an anhydrous cosmetic composition, the fatty phase may contain 10 to 80% by weight and preferably 10 to 40% by weight diol diester, based on the total weight of the corrosition. In addition, it may contain oils and a relatively high proportion, for example 5 to 30% by weight, of waxes. It may be formulated, for example, as a sunscreen oil (in which case it contains a filter to absorb ultraviolet rays).

In addition, a composition according to the invention may contain various additives, more particularly colourants, perfumes, preservatives, UV filters, pearlescers and mineral or organic fillers. Advantageously, it contains antioxidants in a quantity of 0.02 to 0.2% by weight.

The invention is illustrated by the following Examples in which parts and percentages are by weight, unless otherwise indicated.

The nomenclature used in the Examples is the nomen- 20 clature of the "Cosmetic, Toiletry and Fragrance Association, Inc., Washington (CTFA).

To prepare the emulsions, the components of the lipidic phases A and, optionally, B are separately mixed and heated to 70*C, after which phase B is optionally 25 incorporated in phase A. The aqueous phase C is prepared by mixing its components and heating to 70C. The lipidic phase(s) A and, optionally, B is/are added to the aqueous phase C (in the case of oil-in-water emulsions) at while stirring at average speed [in the case of water-in- 30 oil emulsions, the aqueous phase ie added to the lipidic phase(s)]. The mixture of the two phases is homogenized, stirred at approximately 100 r.p.m. and then left to cool to 45-50'C in tho case of water-in-oil emulsions and to in the case of oil-in-water emulsions.

The additives are then optionally added at that temperature, after which cooling is continued to ambient temperature with slow stirring, stirring being stopped when the product is semifluid (at approx. The anhydrous products are obtained in the same way, but without homogenization, by hot mixing (at approx. 70 0

C)

and gradual cooling with slow stirring.

This procedure is applied in the Examples by default.

Where a different procedure is followed, it is specifically indicated.

Examples 1-2 In these Examples, a sensorial method is used to evaluate the organoleptic characteristics of the diol diesters when they are applied to the skin from a lotion in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.

The dynamic viscosity (at maximum shear in m Pa.s) and the thixotropy of the lotions are also evaluated. Thixotropy is determined from the flow curve (rheogram, shear 20 force as a function of the shear rate) as the area between the ascending curve and the descending curve, expressed in Pa.s. The viscosity and thixotropy measurements are carried out at 206C using a Contraves Rheomat 115®.

S. oe e 25 Method A. Definition This method enables the various characteristics which define the feel of cosmetic and galenic products to be numerically quantified by an index (FI, feel index).

"30 The feel index comprises three parameters, namely: 1. The initial feel composed of: a texture mark of 1 (too watery, poor) to 5 (unctuous, very rich) and a slip mark of 1 (excessive blocking) to 5 (slips well), the score representing the average of the two marks.

2. The intermediate feel during spreading which comprises: a spreading mark of 1 (excessive blocking) to 5 (slips well), a mark determining the break or the change of texture of 1 (becoming clearly watery) to 5 (no change), a tackiness mark of 1 (too tacky) to 5 (not tacky), a penetration rate mark of 1 (unsatisfactory) to (optimal) and a degree of penetration mark of 1 (non-existent or poor) to 5 (very good) the score representing the average of the five marks.

3. The final feel after complete evaporation of the volatile compounds comprising: a mark defining the impression on rubbing of 1 (exces- 20 sive blocking) to 5 (slips well), a mark characterizing the residual lipidic film on the skin of 1 (non-existent, dry skin) to 5 (rich, skin well nourished) and a skin softeness mark of 1 (rough) to 5 (velvety, very 25 soft), the score being the total of the three marks.

The feel index is expressed as the initial feel score/ total of the intermediate feel and final feel scores.

4 4 B. Experimental part The test is based on the comparison of an experimental formulation containing the substance to be tested and a control formulation serving as refet nce for assigning the scores, the control formulation having the following composition: PHASE A (lipidic) 10.1 isocetyl ether monostearate Steareth-21 Glycerol stearate 2.6 Cetearyl alcohol PHASE B (lipidic) 6.3 Paraffin oil Carbomer 934 (polycrosslinked Sacrylic acid polymer) 0.3 S 15 PHASE C (aqueous) 81.8 Water 76.7 Glycerol Ethylenediamine tetraacetate (EDTA) 0.1 5 ADDITIVES 1.8 Phenoxy parabene 0.6 Silmethicone 0.1 Trimethamine (30% aqueous solution) 0.8 Perfume 0.3 100 This formulotion (hereinafter referred to as "comparison was developed to obtain a reference FI value.

This mean value can increase or decrease in accordance with the quality of the substance(s) to be tested which is/are incorporated in this formulation instead of the 6% paraffin oil. in the case of Example 2, 10% of the compound are incorporated, the 'glycerol stearate and cetearyl alcohol both being omitted.

The samples of lotions to be tested are presented to the testers in groups of 4 to 6 which corresponds to the maximum number that can be tested per test session.

The product is applied to the insides of the forearms.

The quantity of product to be applied should be the same for each test, i.e. approximately 0.2 g.

The samples are tested "blind". Each tester records his or her feelings from the application of the product to its drying on the skin. The marks are recorded in the order of the questionnaire. On completion of the test, the name of the product is revealed to the testers.

It is possible by this method to quantify the feel of any cosmetic product applied to the skin and to do so in a reasonably reproducible manner both in cases where the tester repeats his or her own tests at various time intervals and when he or she repeats the tests of another tester.

The products to be tested are as follows:

*S

*o 6 Example 1 The product of Example 1 of patent application EP-A-0 465 689 which has the following physicochemical properties: Appearance Colourless and substantially odourless oily liquid Refractive index 1.4635 Free fa+ ty acids 0.05 1 Dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) 49 Density at 22*C 0.895 Example 2 The product of Example 3 of EP-A-0 465 689 which has the following physicochemical properties: Appearance at 20°C Appearance at 50°C Melting point White crystalline solid colourless and substantially odourless oily liquid Around Other products than paraffin oil which represent the various classes of emollients typically used for this purpose in cosmetics are used as comparison emollients:

S.

S

5 S* S S S. S 15 Comparison 2 Comparison 3 Comparison 4 Comparison 5 Comparison 6 20 Comparison 7 Comparison 8 Comparison 9 octyl palmitate, caprylic and capric acid triglyceride diisopropyl adipate isodecyl laurate isopropyl myristate oleyl oleate oleic alcohol squalene Results The FI values and the dynamic viscosity (m Pa.s) and thixotropy (Pa.s) of the lotions are set out in Table 1 below: Table 1 Characteristics of the lotions Compound Fl Viscosity Thixotropy Example 1 4.5/18 2226 1400 Example 2 4.5/14 1711 2236 Comparison 1 3.5/16 Comparison 2 4.5/18.5 1734 1852 Comparison 3 3.5/15 1958 1773 Comparison 4 3.5/18 2359 2743 Comparison 5 4 /13 1801 2128 Comparison 6 4.5/17.5 1829 1877 Comparison 7 4 /15 1801 1368 Comparison 8 4 /11.E 2668 2601 Comparison 9 4 /17.5 1409 1573 These results illustrate the organoleptic qualities of the compounds suitable for use in accordance with the S 20 invention: By comparison with the representatives of the various classes of emollients, the compounds of Examples 1 and 2 impart a rich initial feel (satiny impression) and an extremely pleasant sensation on the skin by virtue of their excellent spreading property.

The compound of Example 1 in particular achieves the best score while the FI value of the compound of Example 2 represents a very good average and, in any event, is very much better than that of such compounds as the fatty alcohols and triglyceride fractions also used as viscosity agents (comparisons 3 and 8).

So far as the rheological properties are concerned, the compound of Example 1 has advantages over the majority of emollients tested. This is because the incorporation of esters or triglycerides always modifies the viscosity of the formulations and this modification has to be compensated by the addition of sisch products as fatty alcohols and triglyceride fractions which have an adverse effect on feel. In addition, its thixotropy is very satisfactory so that there is no need to add regulators.

In addition, the compound of Example 2 (or the other esters of 2,3-butanediol with saturated fatty acids of high boiling point, such as myristic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid) may be successfully used as a viscosity agent and emollient. Its viscosity is satisfactory despite the absence of viscosity agents, such as cetearyl alcohol and glycerol stearate.

Examples 3-9 3. Cleansing milk (oil-in-water emulsion) PHABS A (lipidic) 21.55 Compound of Example 1 7 2-Ethylhexyl-2-ethylhexanoate 3 S 20 Glyceryl tri-C 10 18 acids 4 Paraffin oil 3 Glycerol stearate 3 Stearic acid Tocopherol, butylhydroxyanisole (BHA) and triethyl citrate 0.05 PHASE C (aqueous) 48.07 Water 47.88 Tetrahydroxypropyl ethylenediamine 0.14 EDTA disodium salt 0.05 ADDITIVES 30.38 Hydroxyethyl cellulose aqueous solution) Methyl chiorothiazolinone and methyl isothiazolinone 0.08 Perfume 0.3 100 4. Moisturizing cream (oil-in-water emulsion) PHASE A (lipidic) 26.05 PEG-8-C 1 2 _1 8 alkyl ester Compound of Example 1 7 Isodecyl laurate Cetearyl alcohol 4 Tocopherol, B'fA and triethyl citrate 0.05 PHASE C (aqueous) 73.67 Water 62.67 PEG-5-C12 18 alcohols 2 Propylene glycol Ponthenol 2 Sodium PCA 2 SADDXTIVES, 0.28 Perfume 0.2 Ilethyl chiorothiazolinone and *methyl isothiazolinone 0.08 100 skin-care cream (wate: -in-oA.l emulsion) PHASE~ A (lipidic) 39 PEG-l glyceryl oloostearate arid paraffin wax 12 Paraffin oil Compound of Example 1 Caprylic and capric acid~ triglycerides 2-Phenoxyethanol, methiyl parabene, ethyl parabene, p -opyl parabene and butyl parabene PHASE C (aquebis) Water Magnesium sulfate heptahydrate Glycerol

ADDITIVE

Perfume 60.8 58.1 0.7 2

*S

0.2 0.2 100 20 6. oil for the face and body (Anhydrous) Mineral oil 56.85 compound of Example 1 Octyl octanoate Clo 18 Fatty acid triglycerides Cyclomethicone Isodecyl laurate Octyl methoxycinnamate 3 Perfume 0.1 Tocopherol, triethyl citrate and BHA 0.05 100 13 7. Anhydrous balm Paraffin 4 Ozocerite 2-Ethylhexyl-2-ethyl hexanoate 45.6 Compound of Example 1 Isodecyl laurate Tocopherol, triethyl citrate and BHA 0.1 Perfume 0.3 100 15111be components are mixed at approximately 75 0

C.

00*0,8. Medicated shampoo (oil-in-water emulsion) PHASE A (lipidic) Cocoamphoglycinate 20 Amnmoniumn laureth sulfate 7 Ammon~ium lauryl sulfate 3 Cocoa'idopropyl betaine 2 :Compound of Example 1 Panthenol *e6* PHASE B (aqueous) ".:Water 68.9 Acrylates/steareth-2 0 methacrylate copolymer 4 Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose 2 Polysorbate I.

Quaternium 23 (quaternized polymers) citric acid 5.65 Methyl dibromoglutaronitrile 14 and 2-phenoxyethanol 0.20 100 The components of phase A are mixed at ambient temperature, after which the components of phase B are added with stirring to phase A.

9. Lipatick (anhydrous) Castor oil 27.45 Compound of Example 2 30.5 Beeswax 10.5 'Candelilla wax 15 Ozocerite *o.o Isopropyl lanolate Colourants 13.55 100 9 All the cosmetic products of Examples 3 to 9 were tested and showed high stability for 3 months at temperatures of 230C, 37'C and 470C.

6 of They have good organoleptic properties, namely: Both the emulsions and the anhydrous products are **homogeneous, fine smooth and bright.

homogeneous, fine, smooth and bright.

Claims

1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition, comprising a diester of 2,3-butanediol and a fatty acid, as viscosity agent and emollient, together with a suitable cosmetical or dermatological carrier.

2. A composition as claimed in claim 1, wherein the fatty acid is a C 16 22 fatty acid.

3. A composition as claimed in claim 1 or 2, wherein the diester is present in a concentration of to 80% by weight, based on the composition as a whole.

4. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition is in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion or oil-in-water emulsion, in that it contains 1 to 20% by weight of an emulsifier and in 15 that the fatty phase contains 0.5 to 20% by weight diester, based on the total weight of the emulsion.

5. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the composition is in anhydrous form and in that the fatty phase contains 10 to 80% by weight S 20 diester, based on the total weight of the composition.

6. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 5, wherein the composition contains 0.02 to 0.2% by weight antioxidant.

7. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition contains a diester of 2,3-butanediol and, essentially, oleic, palmitic and stearic acid. 16

8. A composition as claimed in any one of claims 1 to 6, wherein the composition contains a diester of 2,3-butanediol and, essentially, oleic, palmitic, stearic and lauric acids.

9. A cosmetic or dermatological composition, substantially as herein described with reference to any one of Examples 1 to 9 but excluding any comparative examples therein, DATED this 7th Day of Decemiber 1994 SOCIETE DES PRODUITS NESTLE S.A. Attorney% RUTH M. CLARKSON Fellow Institute of Patent Attorneys of Australia of SHELSTON WATERS se: 0 00 0060 a Abstract Diesters of 2,3-butanediol and fatty acids, particu- larly CIB- 22 fatty acids, as emollients and viscosity agents lend themselves to the production of cosmetic compositions in the form of emulsions or anhydrous products which have excellent physicochemical properties and feel characteris- tics. s 5* 0:a No*