NL8003835A - COMPOSITION FOR CONDITIONING HAIR AND METHOD FOR CONDITIONING HAIR USING SUCH COMPOSITIONS. - Google Patents

Description

ΐ *? 29 729 -Ιέ composition to ixet hair conditioning, and method of hair conditioning using such compositions

The invention relates to hair conditioning compositions useful as well as hair treatment methods using such compositions.

It. is known to treat hair with certain quaternary amine compounds for the purpose of conditioning them, i.e. to improve their combability, handling, softness, and the like. While such compositions have been found to be effective to varying degrees, one of the main drawbacks is that the effect is not long lasting, i.e. it does not survive repeated shampoo treatments.

It is thus a main object of the invention to provide a hair conditioner which retains its effect even after repeated hair washes. It is also an object of the invention to provide a method for treating hair with pre-composition, which achieves a conditioning effect on the hair which is relatively stable over repeated washings.

Other and more specific objects of the invention will be explained by the following description.

The invention relates to a composition for conditioning hair which, in an aqueous carrier, based on the total weight of the composition, is about 0.1% of at least one cationic polymer, about 0.2%. 20% of an amphoteric surfactant and enough acid to give the composition a pH in the range of about 1-6; wherein the ratio [polymer (mer)] α - - 25 [detergent (mol)] is about 0.2-5.

Its choice also includes an effective amount such as about 0.1-5% of a betaine of formula 1 of the formula sheet, wherein R is a long aliphatic chain containing about 10-kcol-30 atoms. The invention also relates to a hair conditioning method which has previously been treated with an agent having an alkaline pH by applying the composition of the invention 8003835-1 to it.

The cationic polymers useful for the purposes of the invention may differ slightly. Three groups of polymers appear to be particularly useful, viz. Which are commercially available under the names Merquat (eg Merquat 100, Onamer (eg Onamer M) and quaternized polyvinylpyridine. Merquat 100 is a polymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride and probably exists from mixtures of compounds of the formulas 2a and 2b of the formula sheet, wherein n is an integer depending on the molecular weight They may vary slightly by molecular weight, but usually the polymers of this group have a molecular weight of U. 000-550,000, preferably about 20,000-100,000.

The Onamer type polymers that are useful for the present purposes are poly (dl with hylbut enylammonium chloride) -ct, tf-bis (tr i-15 ethanolammonium chloride), which meet the formula 3 of the formula sheet, wherein n is an integer depending on the molecular weight.

The molecular weight and of. these Onamer type polymers useful for the invention may also vary slightly. Typically, however, they are in the range of about 800-5,000 and preferably 20 in the range of about 1,000-3,000.

The polymers and copolymers of quaternized polyvinylpyridine which can be used according to the invention are indicated by the general formulas ka or Ub of the formula sheet, wherein n is an integer, depending on the molecular weight, R an alkyl group of 1 20 carbon atoms and the X - ion is a cosmetically acceptable anion such as halide, sulfate or carbaxylate. These will also have an average molecular weight in the range of about 5,000-100,000.

As an example of the cationic polymer of this group, mention can be made of a compound according to formula 5 of the formula sheet, namely polyvinylmethylpyridinyl iodide, wherein n is an integer depending on the molecular weight. The weight average molecular weight is suitably about 50,000.

The amount of cationic polymer present in the aqueous solutions will depend on the desired determined results. Usually it will be between about Q, U and 10%, based on the total weight of the aqueous composition, with the optimum range being about 1-5% by weight on the same weight basis.

8003835 f -3- r

The second essential component of the compositions of the invention concerns the amphoteric surfactants. A feature of these materials is that many of them take on the character of an anionic or a cationic surfactant depending on the pH of the solution in which they are present. There are a number of amphoteric detergents that are suitable for use in the invention. However, there are two groups of detergents that have been found to be particularly effective. The first group can be defined by formula 6 of the formula sheet, where R is a long chain fatty acid containing 10-18 carbon-10 atoms. A typical example of such a compound or compounds is the case where R represents groups derived from coconut fatty acid. A material of this character is sold under the trade name Miranol C2MSF and is described in the C.TJP.A .. Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) under the name Amphoteric-2.

A second group of amphoteric detergent agents, which are particularly effective for the purposes of the invention, can be defined by the formula R-NH-CH-CHg-COOH, (Formula 7) wherein R is a long chain fatty alkyl group with 10 -18 carbon atoms. An example of such a detergent is marketed under the name Deriphat 170C, wherein R in formula 7 is a mixture of lauryl and myrisyl fatty alkyl groups. This material is described in the C.T.F.A.

Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary (1973) as lauraminopropionic acid.

The amount of the amphoteric detergent active present in the composition of the invention will vary slightly, again depending on the economy and results sought. Usually lies. however, in the range of about 0.2-10 wt.%; an ideal range is about 1-5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Another essential feature of the invention is that the solution has an acidic pH, i.e., a pH that falls in the range of about 1-6. Any of a series of acids can be used to adjust the pi at the appropriate level, with hydrogen chloride, citric acid and phosphoric acid having been found to be particularly useful.

The betaines optionally useful for the purposes of the invention have formula 1 of the formula sheet wherein 3 is a long chain aliphatic group containing 10-2¼ carbon atoms,

As used herein, the term long aliphatic chains includes both saturated and unsaturated straight and branched chains, hydrocarbon groups, 8003835 and also chains in which other atoms are present in addition to carbon atoms ("for example, oxygen, nitrogen, etc.).

By way of illustration, with regard to typical useful betaines, reference may be made to cocamidopropyl betaine, oleyl betaine, cetyl-5 betaine, coconut betaine, etc. Cocamidopropyl betaine is indicated by formula 8 of. the formula sheet, wherein R§ is the coconut fatty acid acyl group. Coconut fatty acid is a mixture of fatty acids obtained from coconut oil, which mainly contains C12 acids. Qleylbetainen, on the other hand, has formula 9 of the formula sheet. Structurally, the coconut betaine and the cetyΙ-ΙΟ betaine resemble the oleyl betaine according to formula 9, with the exception that the oleyl group is replaced by resp. coconut fatty acid groups: en-de cetyl group. A number of betas useful for the purposes of the invention are commercially available. Examples include: Chemadene KA 30, i

Lonzaine 12C, Lonzaine lUc, Lonzaine 165, etc.

The amount of betaine that can be included in the composition of the invention is variable. Usually it is between about 0.1 and 5 wt.%, And most preferably between about 0.3 and 3 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the composition.

Although the cationic polymers, the amphoteric surfactants and the acids mentioned above are essential active components, the compositions of the invention may also contain other components which may serve to improve the organoleptic character of the product or the easy usability thereof. It is thus within the scope of the invention to include in the present compositions one or more materials such as fragrances, thickeners, fragrance dissolving agents, bactericides, etc.

From choice, a range of solvents can be used in the compositions of the invention. These are usually in the form of an aliphatic alcohol, either a noble or polyhydric alcohol, preferably containing 1-6 carbon atoms. The term "aliphatic alcohol" as used herein is used in its general sense and includes both straight and branched chain alkyl alcohols, which may be either noble or polyhydric (e.g. dihydroxy) ether alcohols, ester alcohols, etc. By way of illustration, as a solvent useful for the invention, mention may be made of ethanol, carbitol, hexylene glycol and propylene glycol. The solvents can be used in a concentration of 0-505¾, preferably 0-5% by weight, based on the total 8003835-5t weight of the composition.

Its choice may also include a neutral surfactant in the compositions of the invention. These will be present in an amount between 0-10 wt.%, Based on the total weight of the composition, often an amount of 0-2% being preferred. Suitable examples of such neutral, surface-active. agents are: Igepal CO-630 (CTFA name nonoxynol-9);

Arlasolve 200 (polyoxyethylene (20) isohexadecyl ether); Tween 20 (CTFA name Polysorbate 20).

10 To apply the composition of. To facilitate the invention on the hair, it is often useful to slightly increase its viscosity. Many thickeners can be used for this purpose. Of these, one may mention hydroxyethyl cellulose carbococyethyl methyl cellulose, the carbopoles. for example, carbopol 9 ^ 0. However, it has been found that hydroxyethyl cellulose is particularly suitable. The concentration of the thickener may vary slightly depending on the desired results. Usually, this agent will be present in an amount of 0-10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

It is often beneficial to include a bactericide in the composition of the invention. A large number of materials are known for this purpose. An illustration is made of a material sold under the trade name Dowicil 200. This is identified in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary, second edition, as 25 quaternium-15 and chemically as 1- (3-chloroallyl) -3,5,7-triaza-1-azonis-adamantane chloride. The amount of bactericide present in the composition of the invention will depend somewhat on the nature of the particular composition. Usually, however, it is between 0 and 10% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the absolute amounts of the cationic polymer and the amphoteric detergent agent present in the composition of the invention, it has been found that the conditioning effect thereof strongly depends on the "molar ratio" of polymer to detergent agent.

The term "molar ratio" as used herein is indicated by the letter α and defined as: [polymer (mer)] [detergent (mol)] 8003835 ï -6-

In the aforementioned expression and elsewhere in the description, the term [polymer (mer)] refers to the number of moles Tan the zicb repeating units of the polymer present in the composition and which carry a positive charge. The term [detergent (mol)] in the aforementioned fraction and elsewhere is defined as the number of moles of detergent present in the composition. The ratio α will vary slightly. Usually it is in the range of about 0.2-5 and is preferably about 1-2.

The compositions of the invention can be applied to the hair in any conventional manner. A suitable procedure involves applying the composition, as described in Example I, to properly dyed or bleached hair, rubbing it gently into the hair mass, leaving the composition on the hair for 1-3 minutes and then applying it to the hair. before combing and drying this hair, rinse thoroughly with water. The amount of conditioning composition applied to the hair will vary, but should generally not be less than 15? of hair weight and no more than $ 20 of that.

It is generally contemplated that the compositions of the invention be applied to hair, that of. has previously been treated, making it slightly basic. Treatments of this type are usually treatments with oxidation hair dye systems or bleaching systems. Such a treatment involves mixing a color base containing, inter alia, the oxidation dye intermediates, with an aqueous carrier containing an oxidizing agent, such as hydrogen peroxide, after which this mixture is distributed in the hair with a hair washing detergent.

These blends, before being applied to the hair, usually have an alkaline pH, i.e., in the range of 7-12 and preferably 8-11. Another treatment of this type concerns, for example, the treatment of the hair with an alkaline bleach solution, using the usual oxidizing agents (eg aqueous hydrogen peroxide), activators (eg potassium persulfate and ammonium persulfate), alkalizing agents, etc. When the compositions of the invention are applied to hair that has been previously treated as indicated above, the combination of amphoteric detergent and cationic polymer precipitates onto the hair to form an conditioning complex which remains on the hair during repeated washings to sit.

8003835 f «f -7-

The pH ran. the hair conditioners used in the invention are selected to some extent depending on the alkalinity of the hair to be treated and the proportions of the cationic polymers and the amphoteric detergent. Generally, the pH is chosen such that, after the composition is applied to the hair and under the influence of the alkalinity of the hair, the pH of the composition is increased by approximately 1 pH unit above the value, where precipitation of the complex takes place. In general, optimum precipitation of the conditioning complex will appear to take place under these conditions.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention.

They, however, are not intended to be limiting.

When the CTFA sewing is given, reference is made to the name given in the CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary of 1973 or the second edition of 197T. the material is raging.

Example I

Ingredient Wt% H Merquat 100 2.00 355 Miranol C2MSF i + .00 20 Hydroxyethyl Cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric acid 1.60

Perfume 0.10

Water to pH 5 100.0

36 CTFA Quaternium-0 25 sa CTFA Amphoteric-2 Example II

Ingredient Wt% 3HB £ Onamer M 1.00

Miranol C 2 MSF 2.00 30 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric acid 0.90

Fragrance or perfume 0.10

Water to pH iv, 5 100 3S3E poly (dimethylbutyl ammonium chloride ide) -a-1-bis (triethanolammonium-35 chloride), average molecular weight about 1000-2000.

8003835 i λ -8-

Example III

Ingredient Found%

Poly-l-vinylmethylpyridinium iodide 2.00 Miranol C ^ MSF U.00 5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Phosphoric acid 1, βθ

Fragrance or perfume 0.10

Water to pH 1 +, 100.0

Example IV

10 Ingredient Wt%

Poly-1-vinyl laurylpyridinium sulfate 1.00

Merquat 100 1.00

Miranol C ^ MSF 1 +, 00 ^ ς. Hydroxyethylcellulose 2.00

Phosphoric acid 1, .60

Fragrance or perfume 0.10

Water to pH 1 +, 100.0

Example V

20 Ingredient Wt. $

Merquat 100 3.50

Miranol C 1 / MSF 1.75

Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2.00

Sodium hydride cocyde 0.01

Phosphoric acid 0.07

Ethanol 1+ .00

Chemadene HA-30 ^ 2.0

Water to pH 1 +, 5 100.0 1. Made by the Richardson Chemical Co. The CTFA name is cocami-30 dopr opylbetaine.

Example VI

Same as Example V, except that 2.00 $ oleyl betaine is used instead of the cocamidopropyl betaine used in Example V. This composition had a pH of 1.5 +.

8003835 7 7 -9-

Examples VII-XV

Ingredient Wt%

Example VII Example VIII Example IX

Merquat 100 5.00 ^ 5 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 2,250 ^

Phosphoric acid 0. ^ + 50 ^

Ilhydric hydride oxide 0.015 ^

Miranol C 2 MSF 2,560

Sarbic Acid 0.100> 10 Dovicil 2Q0 * 0.100 *

Carbitol 3.00 ^

Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.600> -.- Fragrance or perfume 0.0000>

Tween 20s * - 0.001 - 15 Arlasolve 200®® - --- 0.001

Water to 100% -> pH. ^, 8 ^, 5 & CTFA name Quaternium 15 S3E CTFA name Polysorbate-20 20 S553E Polyoxyethylene (20) isohexadecyl ether.

8003835 i j -10-

Ingredient Found%

Ex. X Ex. XI Ex. XH Ex. XIII Ex. XIT Ex. XV

Merquat 100 5.0 - - 5.0 5.0 5.0 5 Hydroxy ethyl cellulose 2.25 - ------------->

Sodium hydride oxide 0.15 - ^

Phosphoric acid 0.2 0, U6 ----- ----------------- "">

Deriphat 1T0C ^ 2.0 - - - - -

Miranol CgMSF - 2.56> 10 Sorbic acid 0.1 0.10 *

Dowicil 200 0.10 0.10>

Carbitol 3.0 -?

Fragrance substance or perfume 0.1 + 0. ------------------------- ----------— -------) 3

Chen ad een HA-30 2.0 2.0 2.0 - - -! + 15 Merquat 550 - - 12.5 - - -

Qnamer - 5.0 - - - - r

Lonzaine 12C -. - - 2.0 - -

T

Lonzaine 1V - - - - 2.0 - g

Lonzaine 16S ° - - - - - - 2.0 20 Water up to 100 $ -> pH 1 +, 5 -— * 2. CTFA name Lauramopropionic acid 3. CTFA name cocamidopropyl betaine 1+. CTFA name Quaternium-1 + 1 25 5 · Poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -a, tf-bis- (triithanolammonium chloride) 6. CTFA name Cocabetaine 7. CTFA name Laurylbetaine 8. CTFA name Cetylbetaine.

Conditioners of the invention are not only useful for improving the combing ability of the hair in wet and dry condition, improving manageability, feeling soft, etc., but also, unlike conventional products, the conditioning effect thereof stable to repeated washes. This durability of the conditioning is illustrated by the following experiment using dyed hair as the test substrate.

8003835 4

T

-11-

Strands of intact cancerous hairs dyed with Composition A for 20 minutes according to the procedure of the instructions.

The ratio of the amount of the solution to the weight of the hair, the temperature and the amount of water used for rinsing after the treatment were all maintained in such a way that the conditions on the head were completely simulated ► The rinsing was carried out on one of the similarly treated strands, a conventional hair conditioner, wherein the conditioning component was Stearel-Konium Chloride (CTFA name), on another strand the conditioning material of Example I and on still another strand the composition of. Example 7 applied (0.1 g of each product / g of hair). These compositions were allowed to act for 30 seconds after which they were kept on the hair for an additional minute, then rinsed and combed. The measurements of the combing were performed according to the procedure described in Garcia's article. & Diaz (J. Soc. Cosmet. Chem. 27, 379-396 (1976)). The test essentially involves passing a lock of hair through a comb to which a strain gauge is attached, which in turn is connected to a recording device. Labor is out. guides the lock of hair to pass through the comb and this work, read on the integrator, is an objective measure of easy or difficult combing.

After the combing properties of the hair after the dyeing and conditioning treatment were determined, the strands were treated 3 or more times with a Herbal essence shampoo and retested for combing power. The shampoo treatment involved applying the shampoo (0.1 g / 1 g of hair), dyeing it in the hair for a period of 60 seconds to produce an abundant foam, and then shampooing the hair for at least 1 minute was flushed out. Each shampoo stage consisted of 2 foam / rinse treatments, which followed each other.

The results of the combability tests are summarized in Table A. In the table the 'combability' is expressed in units of labor (gcmj.

The higher these values, the more difficult it is to comb the hair.

8003835) i -12-

Composition A

Wt $ based on the total weight of the composition ingredient theorem 3 P-phenylenediamine 0.35 U, IT-bis-2 (2-bydroxyethyl-0-p-phenylen-

diamine sulfate) 0.1T

Resorcinol 0.31 1-Naphthol '0.08 10 Oleic Acid T, 50

Propylene glyc ol ^, ^ 0

Isopropanol, 0.35

Hydrogen peroxide 3.00 s-Qctoxynol-1 3.50 15 Sulphated castor oil 1.50

Ammonium hydride axyd e 1.15 s Cocamide DEA 0.75

Odor of substance or perfume 0.15 ium sulfium 0.05 20 ΕΠΤΑ 0.01

Water to pH 9.8 100.0 s CTFA name (See CTFA Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionaru, 2nd Edition, 1977).

8003835

P

-13- t

IABEL A

Treatment with Average feasibility (avg) to wet Vip.pt »no shampoo 3x tac 5x 6x treatment shampoo shampoo shampoo shampoo 5 (A) after dyeing 2,800 (A) + known conditioner 625 T.350 10 (A) + conditioner according to example I 3 ^ 6 T69 15 (A) + conditioner according to example V 228 3 ^ 9 ^ 38 531 20 (A) + conditioner according to example vil 580 6M 809 916 The last two results of Table A are further confirmed by tests on living hair.

It should be noted that betaines themselves do not affect the conditioning in any way when used in a composition in combination with the cationic polymer, for example Merquat 100 or Onamer M. Only when other amphoteric compounds, such as the compounds described above, are also in the composition being present, an additional conditioning effect is obtained by the application of the betaine.

The following procedures illustrate the use of the conditioner of the invention after a hair whitening treatment. It has been found that the treatment of bleached hair with the present compositions also improves its feel and combability.

2 strands each of 3 g of brown caucasian hair were bleached with 20 g of the following bleaching composition for 1 hour at 30 ° C? 8003835% -11 + -%

Composition B Percentage based on the total. weight of the composition

Potassium persulfate 11 »0 aomonium per sulfate β, 0 5 Hatrium stearate 3.5 liatr ium metasilicate 3.5

Hydrogen peroxide 3.5

Cab-o-sil 2.5 ΕΠΤΑ 0.8 10 Methocel

Water to 10.3 100.0

After bleaching, the hair is rinsed thoroughly and one of the bleached bunches of hair is treated with 1.5 g of the following composition for 3 minutes:

Example XVI

Ingredient Qev.%

Merquat 100 2.0 s Deriphat 170C 2, k B enzyme alcohol 3.5 20 Phosphoric acid (85 ^ s) 1.1

Water up to 100.0 K Lauramine propionic acid

The other strand was treated with the same conventional hair conditioner as mentioned above for the same length of time. Both strands were rinsed thoroughly and found to feel soft and silky · easy to comb. Both strands were then treated once with shampoo and compared again, this time the conventional conditioned strand felt tacky and rubbery and was difficult to comb, while the strand treated with the conditioning composition of Example XVE retained a soft feel and easy combability. this lock to be very strong, even after four shampoo treatments.

8003835

Claims (13)

The composition according to claims 1-2, characterized in that it further comprises about 1.0-5 # of at least one betaine of formula 1. 4. Composition according to claim 3, characterized in that the betaine is at least selected from cocamidopropyl betaine, lauryl betaine, oleyl betaine, cetyl betaine and coconut betaine. Composition according to claims 1-2, characterized in that the cationic polymer contains a homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chlaride. A composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a homo- or copolymer of a quaternized polyvinylpyridine with monomeric units of the formula 4c or 4d, wherein R is an alkyl group of 1-20 carbon atoms and X- is a cosmetically acceptable anion, with a weight average molecular weight of about 5,000-100,000. Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the anion is a halide, sulfate or carboxylate. 8. A composition according to claims 1-4, characterized in that the cationic polymer is a poly (dimethylbutenylammonium chloride) -a,--bis- (triethanolammonium chloride). Composition according to claims 1-8, characterized in that the amphoteric detergent has formula 6, wherein R is a long fatty acid group containing 10-18 carbon atoms. 10. A composition according to claim 9, characterized in that R is a coconut fatty acid group. II. Composition according to claims 1-8, characterized in that the 8003835 -16-amphoteric detergent has formula R-M-CH 1 CH 2 -COOH, wherein R is a long fatty acid alkyl group with 10-18 carbonates. 12. A composition according to claims 1-11, characterized in that it further contains an aliphatic monovalent or polyhydric alcohol solvent, suitably with about 1-6 carbon atoms. Method of conditioning hair, characterized in that on. the hair is applied a composition according to claims 1-12 for sufficient time to improve the combability, as well as and / or the handling and / or the softness thereof. 10 1h. Method for conditioning hair that has been pretreated with an agent with an alkaline pH, characterized in that a composition according to claims 1-12 is applied to the pretreated hair for sufficient time to ensure combability and / or manageability and / or improve its softness. A method according to claim 1, characterized in that the pH of the treatment agent used previously is in the range of 7-12. A method according to claim 1U, characterized in that the pH of the previously used treating agent is in the range of 8-11. 8003835 i 4 * "j 2a CH3 / CH2 CH + CH-CH N R -'N-CH2COO" CH3 K2C CH * \ / 2 A "E * C CH _ 3 w3 n 2b CH. / 2X "* CH2- CH CH-- CH * CH- \, / H 'Cl ~ / \ L" 3 = 3 Jn 3 OH-CH2CH Γ CH, -] CH, CH, OH \ I, / 2 2 OH -CH-CH, -N "-tT-CH, -CH = CH-CH, -N + -CH, CH, CH VI \ OH-CH2CH2 [_CE2 C1 ~ n XCH2CH2OH 4a 4b CH2 CH; --CH7 - CH-- Ln ^ h-ch2 R X 1 _ n R x ~ L _in. 8003835% k hi ch2 ch - ch2-CH ill Λι 'Iw I + 1 XNi ^ CH-CH, R f' L _J [_ R x ~ 5 --CH - CH-- ^ R - NH - CH2— CH2- CQOH i T CH_ _ 3 n · ^ CH2CCONa r__ c _ ϊΓ_ch2ch2och2coo * "N CE, 8 _ N, / I l3 2 R - c - NH - <CH2) 3 - N "- CH2 - CCQ ca3 9 CH L CH3 (CH2) 7CH = CH (CH2) 7-ch2- n · - CH2-coo ch3 8003835 Bristol-Myers Company