MXPA01001684A - Oil-in-water emulsion comprising gellan and a particular surfactant and uses. - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns a solid oil-in-water emulsion comprising (i) an aqueous phase gelled with gellan, (ii) at least an oil and (iii) a surfactant system with an HLB not less than 7. Said composition can be used in stick or waterpact from and can constitute make-up products for the skin, mucous membranes and/or keratinous fibres. It does not cause stabbing effects when applied and or gnawing effect when drying. It further has a hardness providing easy disintegration of the product and good stick cohesion. Said composition may be applied directly on the skin or with a sponge and provides great freshness on application.

Description

SOLID H / E EMULSION THAT COMPRISES GELANO AND A PARTICULAR SURGICAL AGENT, AND ITS UTILIZATION Field of the Invention The present invention relates to a solid H / E emulsion, as well as its use in the cosmetic field, particularly for the makeup of the skin and / or mucous membranes and / or keratin fibers.

Background of the Invention Products that are presented in solid form are known in the cosmetic industry. As products of this type, mention may be made, for example, in the field of makeup, the bars or "stic s" of lipsticks, background makeup or eye shadow; in the field of skin or lip care, lip repair pencils, sticks or depigmentation sticks, make-up removers or moisturizers; in the field of hygiene, deodorant bars, bars or foaming tablets for shaving or for washing the skin.

Ref: 127343 In fact, it is particularly interesting to have products in the form of bars to the extent that such products are very practical to use, are easily transportable, the product does not run the risk of spilling. On the other hand, the makeup products are formulated quite generally on the basis of a part of a fat phase for reasons of comfort and softness, and on the other hand of a powdery phase that provides the desired color. This pulverulent phase can comprise pigments. and / or charges and / or pearlescence. The fatty phase generally comprises waxes and / or pasty compounds which form the structure of the bars. However, the wax-based bars have certain drawbacks; they have a fatty character that is not appreciated by the users and they lack freshness in the application. Furthermore, it is difficult to introduce hydrophilic active agents therein. It is therefore increasingly sought to make makeup bars comprising an aqueous phase in the highest possible concentration. However, bars comprising an important aqueous phase are sometimes subject to problems of stability and lack of cohesion. In particular, these gels, which are made from the association of a hydrophilic gelling agent and water have the disadvantage of being brittle and can easily break during use. One way of improving the strength of the gels is to increase the concentration of hydrophilic gelling agent, but the gels then become difficult to lose, ie the extraction of material in the intake of the product is insufficient. On the other hand, the aqueous bars free of fatty phase cause in the application sensations of drying and tightness of the skin, effects that are judged undesirable by the users. Also, there remains the need for a solid composition that can be used by direct application on the skin or with the help of a sponge, which is well diluted, comfortable, which provides in the application a freshness effect without tightening or drying effect . The applicant has unexpectedly discovered that in association with a particular hydrophilic gelling agent, namely gellan, an oil and a specific surfactant system, it was possible to make solid emulsions that can be easily de-solved and that detract freshness without tightening or drying effect.

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The present invention thus relates to a solid oil-in-water (H / E) emulsion comprising i) an aqueous phase gelled by gellan, ii) a fatty phase comprising at least one oil and iii ) an HLB surfactant system greater than or equal to 7. The emulsions according to the invention are particularly comfortable: they are easily applied, provide a feeling of freshness and smoothness. They do not cause a feeling of tightness or drying of the skin after application. They exhibit excellent cosmetic properties. The emulsions of the invention have excellent application and thinning qualities. In particular, thanks to the association according to the invention, a level of disintegration higher than that of the known bars is obtained with equivalent hardness. The intake of the product is easy, it can be done directly on the body or with the finger or even with the sponge, extracting a sufficient amount of product, easy to apply then on the skin in a homogeneous way, without needing previous wetting. The obtained makeup is uniform and homogeneous. These emulsions, on the other hand, have an excellent cohesion. They are stable over time and with temperature. Thus, after having been stored for two months at room temperature or at 45 ° C, they do not present any phenomenon of syneresis (exudation) or even lag: their appearance and hardness have not changed. The emulsions according to the invention do not exude, even with small percentages of gelling agent, and do not necessarily require the intervention of a particular preparation technique. The subject of the present invention is also a skin or keratin fiber makeup product comprising an emulsion as defined above. The subject of the present invention is also a method for making up the skin and / or the mucous membranes and / or the keratin fibers, which consists in applying to the latter, an emulsion and / or a solid make-up product such as have been defined above. In the sense of the present invention, solid composition is understood as a composition having a hardness defined by a maximum force before rupture ranging between 5 and 130 grams, at room temperature • (20-25 ° C), after of the penetration by a 2 mm diameter stainless steel mobile in the matrix of the composition with a thickness of 1 mm at a speed of 1 mm / sec. and removing said mobile from the matrix of the composition at a speed of 2 mm / sec, the maximum force being measured before rupture with a texture analyzer of the "TAXT2" type marketed by the RHEO Company. The emulsions according to the invention comprise an aqueous phase gelled by gellan. As gelano, mention may be made of gellan gum sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by the Nutrasweet-Kelco Society. The gellan is preferably present in the emulsion according to the emulsion in a concentration ranging between 0.05 and 10%, preferably still between 0.5 and 3%, by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. The aqueous phase of the emulsions of the invention can also comprise a hydrophilic gelling agent other than gellan, such as polysaccharides other than gellan or protein derivatives, synthetic or semi-synthetic gels of the polyester type, in particular sulphonic, polyacrylates or polymethacrylates and its derivatives. The emulsions according to the invention can also comprise a floral water such as cornflower water and / or a mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and / or a thermal water. The emulsions according to the invention can also comprise water-soluble dyes selected from the usual dyes of the field under consideration, such as the disodium salt of punch, the disodium salt of alizarin green, the yellow of quinoline, the trisodium salt of amaranth, the disodium salt of tartrazine. , the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

Preferably, the emulsions according to the invention comprise up to 99.95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 99.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, of water. The emulsions according to the invention can also comprise solvents other than water, such as, for example, primary alcohols such as ethanol and isopropanol, glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, ethers of glycol such as the alkyl (Ci -C) ether of mono, di or tripropylene glycol, mono, di- or triethylene glycol, and mixtures thereof. The emulsions according to the invention also take a fatty phase comprising at least one oil. By oil is meant, for the purposes of the present invention, a liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25 ° C). Among the oils which can be used, mention may be made of oils of animal, vegetable or mineral origin, such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil. sweet almond, calofilum, sesame, macadamia, grape seeds, rapeseed, copra, peanut, castor-bean, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germs; esters of fatty acids and polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; triglycerides of fatty acids; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. Preferably, the emulsions according to the invention are free of waxes. By wax is understood, in the sense of the present invention, a solid or pasty fatty substance at room temperature (25 ° C), that is to say a compound having a melting point ranging between 25 and 130 ° C. The fatty phase it can be present in proportions reaching, for example, up to 70%, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. The compositions according to the invention also comprise a surfactant system H / E of HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) greater than or equal to 7, usually used in the cosmetic field. As the H / E surfactant system, mention may be made in particular (CTFA): cetearyl glucoside, sucrose stearate, PEG-40 stearate, sorbitan stearate, polysorbate 60, sorbitan mixture stearate / sucrose cocoate, glyceryl mixture stearate / PEG-100 stearate, PEG-400, glyceryl stearate, the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate, and mixtures thereof. Particular mention may be made of the mixture of glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate sold under the trade name "Arlacel 165 FL" by the company Unichema, the oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate 20 OE (ethylene oxide) sold under the trade name "Polysorbate 60" by the Unichema Company, the monostearate of polyethylene glycol 8 OE sold under the trade name "Estol 3646" of the Unichema Company, the sucrose mono-dipalmitate stearate sold under the trade name "Tegosoft PSE G" by the company Goldschmidt. The surfactant system is preferably present in the emulsions according to the invention with a content ranging between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight, based on the total weight of the the emulsion The emulsions according to the invention may also comprise a powdery phase which may comprise a pigment and / or a nacre and / or a filler. By pigments, it is necessary to comprise white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium, intended to color and / or opacify the composition. The pigments can be present in a proportion of 0-40% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, preferably in a proportion of 0.1 to 30% and preferably even in a proportion of 1-20%. They can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, of usual or nanometric size. Nanometric size is understood as meaning pigments whose average particle size ranges from 5 to 100 nm.

Mention may be made, among pigments and mineral nanopigments, of titanium, zirconium, or cerium dioxides, as well as zinc, iron, or chromium oxides, nanotitanium, and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, and the lacquers commonly used to give the lips and the skin a make-up effect, which are calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halogen-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes. The pigments can be particularly coated by silicone compounds such as PDMS and / or by polymers, particularly polyethylenes, or else by fluorinated compounds. The pigments SA of Maprecos or the pigments Pl of Myoshi can thus be cited. By pearlescence, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles that reflect light. Pearlescents may be present in the emulsion in a proportion of 0-40% by weight, preferably in a proportion of 0.1 to 30% and preferably even in a proportion of 1-20% by weight.

Among the pearlescents that can be considered, we can mention natural nacre, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica. By fillers, it is necessary to comprise colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar particles, intended to give body or rigidity to the composition, and / or softness, matte color and uniformity to makeup. The fillers, which may be present in the emulsion at a rate of 0-60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion, preferably at a rate of 0.1 to 40%, preferably even 1-20%, can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar. Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon, poly-ß-alanine and polyethylene powders, Teflon, lauroyl-lysine, possibly modified starch and its derivatives, boron nitride. , bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethylmethacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, synthetic hollow microspheres, microsponges, silicone resin microbeads, oxides of zinc and titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from carboxylic organic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, myristate magnesium, the compounds Si02 / Ti02 / Si02, Ti02 / Ce02 / Si02, or also Ti02 / ZnO / Talco, polymers of polyethylene terephthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of sequins. Generally, the pulverulent phase comprises sufficient pigments and / or pearlescents and / or fillers to ensure the desired make-up effect. Thus, preferably, the emulsion according to the invention is not transparent, that is to say that the characters of a diary page can not be seen through it. Preferably it is not yet translucent, that is, it does not allow the passage of light.

In a particularly advantageous form of the invention, the pulverulent phase comprises at least one filler selected from the optionally modified starch and its derivatives. It is possible to modify the stiffness of the emulsions according to the invention by adding one or more salts that will increase this rigidity. These salts may be chosen from the salts of the mono-, di- or trivalent metals, and more particularly the alkali metal and alkaline earth metal salts and in particular the sodium, calcium or magnesium salts. The ions constituting these salts can be chosen, for example, from carbonates, bicarbonates, sulfates, glycerophosphates, borates, chlorides, nitrates, acetates, hydroxides, persulfates as well as salts of α-hydroxy acids ( citrates, tartrates, lactates, malate) or fruit acids, or even the salts of amino acids (aspartate, arginate, glycocholate, fumarate). The amount of salt can range between 0.01 and 2% and preferably between 0.1 and 1% of the total weight of the emulsion.

Preferably, the salt is selected from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium, sodium, magnesium, strontium, neodymium or manganese chloride, sulphate magnesium or calcium, calcium or magnesium acetate, and their mixtures. Preferably still, the salt is chosen from magnesium chloride and sodium chloride. The emulsions of the invention also contain a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium, ie a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as skin, nails, hair, eyelashes and eyebrows, mucous membranes and semi-mucous membranes, and any other skin area of the body and face. The composition may further comprise any complementary compound usually used in the cosmetic field, such as antioxidants, perfumes, essential oils, preservatives, lipophilic or hydrophilic cosmetic or pharmaceutical active agents, moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids, self-tanning compounds such as DHA, sun filters.

Of course, the person skilled in the art will try to choose this or these possible complementary compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the emulsion according to the invention are not, or substantially, altered by the considered addition. The emulsions according to the invention can be prepared according to the conventional preparation methods of the emulsions, these methods being well known to those skilled in the art. The emulsions according to the invention can constitute make-up or skin treatment products, in particular of the body, face and / or scalp, or keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, nails, eyelashes and eyelashes. / or the eyebrows, or even the mucous membranes, in particular the lips. They can thus constitute body makeup products, background makeup, eye shadows, cheek makeup, anti-dark circles, lipsticks, lip contour pencils, masks, pencils around the eyes, dye bars or the makeup of hair strands.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. In the following examples, the amounts are given in percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLE 1: The applicant firm has made the solid emulsion H / E in the form of a background make-up in the following bar: Phase A: - Mixture of glyceryl mono-stearate, polyethylene glycol stearate (1000E) sold under the name "Arlacel 165 FL" by UNIQUEMA 2.1% - Oxyethylenated sorbitan mono-stearate (200E) sold under the trade name "Polysorbate 60" by UNIQUEMA 0.9% - 0.5% pure cetyl alcohol - Stearic acid (C16-18 50/50) 1.5% Isoparaffin (6-8 moles of isobutylene) hydrogenated 22% Preservative 0.2% Pigments (Titanium dioxide, black iron oxides) / red / yellow) 7% Phase B: Water 60.45% Preservative 0.25% Propylene glycol 3% 99% Triethanolamine 0.6% Phase C: Gellan gum: Polysaccharides (D-glucose 1,3 / D-glucuronic acid-1,4 / D-glucose-1,4 / L-Ramnosa 1,4) sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by NUTRAS EET-KELCO 1,5% Operating procedure: Phases A and B were homogenized separately. They were heated to 80 ° C. They were emulsified by pouring phase A into phase B under Moritz agitation (3000 r / min) at 80 ° C. The stirring was then reduced ( 500 r / min) and phase C was added. It was homogenized for 15 minutes maintaining the temperature at 80 ° C. It was poured into water-tight conditioning articles. It was left to cool at room temperature. A light creamy solid bottom make-up was obtained, which is easily spread, is pleasant to the skin with a fresh effect.

EXAMPLE 2: The applicant firm made the solid emulsion H / E in the form of a background make-up in the following bar: Phase A: - Polyethylene glycol monostearate (80 E) sold under the trade name "Estol 3646" by UNIQUEMA 1.3% - 0.3% stearic acid - 0.5% stearyl alcohol - Apricot kernel oils 13% - Cyclohexadimethylsiloxane (viscosity: 8cst) 10% - Preservative 0.1% - Pigments (titanium oxide, iron oxides) • 7% Phase B: Glycerin 7% Preservative 0.2% - Mono-di palmito sucrose stearate sold under the trade name "Tegosoft PSE 141 G" by GOLDSCHMIDT 1.3% - Water 56% Phase C: - 0.04% pure sodium hydroxide - 2.26% water Phase D: Gellan gum: Polysaccharides (D-glucose 1,3 / D-glucuronic acid-1,4 / D-glucose-1,4 / L-Ramnosa 1,4) sold under the trade name "Kelcogel F" by NUTRAS EET-KELCO 1,5% This emulsion was prepared according to the same operative mode as Example 1 adding (C + D) at the end. A solid background makeup with the appearance of a nice fresh gel was obtained in the application without straightening effects.

It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known by the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (23)

1. Claims The invention having been described as an antecedent, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1. The solid oil-in-water emulsion, characterized in that it comprises: i) an aqueous phase gelled by gellan, ii) a fatty phase comprising at least one oil, and iii) a higher HBL surfactant system. or equal to 7. The emulsion according to claim 1, characterized in that the gellan is present at a concentration ranging between 0.05 and 10%, preferably still between 0.5 and 3% by weight, in relation to to the total weight of the emulsion. The emulsion according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it comprises up to 99.95% by weight, preferably from 30 to 99.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion, of water . 4. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it comprises a solvent selected from ethanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, glycol ethers, and mixtures thereof. 5. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the oil is chosen from paraffin oil, petrolatum, perhydrosqualene, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil, calofilum oil, of sesame, macadamia, grape seeds, rapeseed, copra, peanuts, castor beans, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germs; esters of fatty acids and polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides; alcohols; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates, or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; triglycerides of fatty acids; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; synthetic oils such as fatty esters; silicone oils such as volatile silicone oils, polymethylsiloxanes, polymethylphenylsiloxanes, polysiloxanes modified by fatty acids, fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, fluorinated silicones, perfluorinated oils and mixtures thereof. 6. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty phase is present in proportions reaching up to 70%, preferably from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the emulsion. 7. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant system is chosen from cetearyl glucoside, sucrose stearate, PEG-40 stearate, sorbitan stearate, polysorbate 60, sorbitan stearate / sucrose mixture. cocoato, the mixture of glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate, PEG-400, glyceryl stearate, the mixture of PEG-6 / PEG-32 / glycol stearate, and their mixtures. 8. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant system is present in a content ranging between 0.1% and 15%, preferably between 0.5% and 7% by weight in relation to the total weight of the emulsion. 9. The emulsion according to any of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it comprises a powdery phase comprising a pigment and / or nacre and / or a filler. The emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the pigments are chosen from titanium, zirconium, or cerium dioxides, zinc, iron, or chromium oxides, nanotitanium, ferric blue, black carbon, calcium, barium, aluminum or zirconium salts, acid dyes such as halogen-acid, azo or anthraquinone dyes, pigments coated with silicone compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes and / or polymers, particularly polyethylenes, or even by fluorinated and / or their mixtures. 11. The emulsion according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the pigments are present in a content of up to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the emulsion. 12. The emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that pearlescents are chosen from natural nacre, mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride as well as colored titanium mica. The emulsion according to claim 9 or 12, characterized in that the pearlescence is present in a content of up to 40% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. emulsion. 14. The emulsion according to claim 9, characterized in that the fillers are selected from talc, mica, silica, kaolin, Nylon, poly-ß-alanine and polyethylene powders, Teflon, lauroil -lisin, the optionally modified starch and its derivatives, boron nitride, bismuth oxychloride, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, polystyrene powders, polyester powders, microspheres synthetic hollows, microsponges, microbes of silicone resins, zinc and titanium oxides, zirconium or cerium oxides, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, silica microspheres hollows, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms; arbono, such as zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, compounds Si02 / Ti02 / Si02, Ti02 / Ce02 / Si02, or also Ti02 / ZnO / Talco, polymers of polyethylene teraphthalate / polymethacrylate in the form of sequins. 15. The emulsion according to claim 14, characterized in that the powder phase comprises a charge selected from the optionally modified starch and its derivatives. The emulsion according to any one of claims 9, 14 or 15, characterized in that the fillers are present in a content of up to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 40% by weight, based on the to the total weight of the emulsion. 17. The emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it comprises a salt. 18. The emulsion according to claim 17, characterized in that the salt is chosen from calcium, magnesium or strontium nitrate, calcium or magnesium borate, calcium chloride, sodium chloride, magnesium chloride, strontium chloride, neodymium or manganese, magnesium or calcium sulphate, calcium or magnesium acetate, and mixtures thereof. 19. The emulsion according to claim 18, characterized in that the salt is chosen between magnesium chloride and sodium chloride. 20. The emulsion according to any one of the preceding claims, further characterized in that it comprises a cosmetically or physiologically acceptable medium. 21. The makeup product of the skin or keratin fibers, characterized in that it comprises an emulsion as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20. 22. The product according to claim 21, characterized in that It constitutes a product of body make-up, a background makeup, an eye shadow, a cheek makeup, an anti-dark circles, a lipstick, a lip contour pencil, a mask, a pencil outline of the eyes, a bar for dyeing or the makeup of hair strands. 23. The method of making up the skin and / or the keratin fibers, characterized in that it consists of applying an emulsion on the skin and / or the keratin fibers as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20 and / or a product as defined in claims 21 or 22.