MXPA99012039A - Cosmetic composition containing a whitening agent and an exfoliant - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a stabilized cosmetic composition useful in the lightening or whitening of skin. The composition contains a stabilized active ingredient for whitening along with an alpha hydroxy acid. The present invention is also a method of improving skin tone, moisturization and skin firmness through the use of the stabilized cosmetic composition and a moisture source.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION CONTAINING A BLEACHING AGENT AND AN EXFOLIANT TECHNICAL FIELD The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions that include delivery systems that provide novel ways of delivering dermatologically active agents to cosmetically significant areas of the stratum corneum. The compositions of the invention are particularly, but not exclusively, useful as compositions for lightening the skin. The invention also includes a stabilized anhydrous delivery system for water-soluble acids. Finally, the present invention relates to a method for improving skin tone, moisturization and firmness of the skin.

BACKGROUND Many skin lightening and skin bleaching compositions have been used to reduce skin pigmentation and improve skin tone. These compositions include cushion acid and its derivatives. There are many other chemicals that have a profound physiological effect on the skin. A group of such dermatologically active compounds is that of the relatively low molecular weight alpha hydroxy carboxylic acids, for example, with 10 carbons or less. Popularly called "alpha hydroxy acids", these acids are known to have a number of useful effects on the skin. Referred to as "AHA's," alpha hydroxy acids can moisten dry skin and improve various disorders including acne, psoriasis and other skin abnormalities. The AHA's are also effective to revitalize the skin. Depending on the concentration and extent of application can cause, or stimulate, exfoliation, which is the removal of layers of keratinous or callus tissue, and stimulate the renewal of new layers of skin to provide a significant improvement in the appearance of the skin . Some AHAs that have been used to provide these benefits are the simplest alpha hydroxy acids, namely lactic acid, as well as glycolic acid, citric acid and malic acid. These acids are also known as "fruit acids" because they are found in fruits and, in the case of glycolic acid, in cane sugar. There are many other AHA's, or equivalent alpha keto acids and the like, which are known, or have been suggested for use in revitalizing the skin or otherwise providing useful dermatological skin functions. Some beta hydroxy acids, for example, salicylic acid, also have useful dermatological properties. Some such "skin acids" are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,091,171 of Yu et al, the disclosure of which is incorporated herein by reference thereto. The AHAs of interest are usually highly hydrophilic, dissolve rapidly in water and, in the case of lactic acid, become liquid at about room temperature (about 16.8 ° C). Such hydrophobicity is usually incompatible with common hydrophobic cosmetics. The anhydrous nature of such cosmetics means that small amounts of active hydrophilic agents, for example, AHA's can either lose their activity due to chemical or physical-chemical combination, or fail to be delivered to the surface of the skin in an adequately hydrophilic environment. or watery to be effective. In addition, preferred environments for such agents are significantly acidic, a condition which is difficult to provide on anhydrous, or substantially hydrobromic, treated skin surfaces. Of special importance for products that are intended for daily use is to avoid irritation. It has been found that when a bleaching agent such as kojic acid is combined with an exfoliating agent, such as an alpha hydroxy acid, more specifically lactic acid, an improved bleaching results.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Additional aspects of the invention will be set forth in part in the description that follows and in part will be apparent from the description, or can be learned by practicing the invention. The aspects of the invention can be realized and obtained by means of the instrumentation and combinations indicated particularly in the appended claims. According to the purpose of the invention in one of its aspects incorporated and described widely in this, is described: A topically applied cosmetic composition comprising: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; b) an exfoliant selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and salicylic acid; c) a sufficient amount of an adsorbent or carrier of particulate adsorbent to support the exfoliant; and d) a cosmetic base, the base having a sufficient amount of a film-forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin. It is further described: A stabilized bleaching composition comprising a bleach selected from kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; and a selected gelling agent of castor oil oil derivatives, silicone polymers, silicone gums, clays, bentonite, and styrene / ethylene / propylene block copolymers. It is further described: A method for lightening the skin comprising: Apply to the surface of the skin a source of water followed by the application to the skin of a bleaching cosmetic composition that includes: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; b) an exfoliant selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and salicylic acid; c) a sufficient amount of an adsorbent or carrier of particulate adsorbent to support the exfoliant; and d) a cosmetic base, the base having a sufficient amount of a film-forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin. Finally, it is described: An essentially anhydrous, hydrophobic topically applied cosmetic composition comprising: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; b) a lactic acid exfoliant; c) an anti-aging agent selected from Vitamin A Palmitate and retinol and its derivatives; d) a sufficient amount of a particulate adsorbent adsorbent or carrier to support the exfoliant; and e) a cosmetic base, the base having a sufficient amount of a film forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when the cosmetic composition is applied to the skin. Additional aspects of the invention will be set forth in part in the description that follows, and in part will be apparent from the description, or may be learned by practicing the invention.

The purposes and aspects of the invention will be realized and obtained by means of the elements and combinations particularly pointed out in the appended claims.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED MODALITY Several embodiments of the invention and one or more ways of practicing the invention will now be described in more detail. Illustrative, non-limiting examples of preferred embodiments of the invention will also be described. Preferred embodiments of the invention relate to novel cosmetic compositions containing a stabilized bleaching composition, an exfoliant and an anti-aging agent to improve skin bleaching. Bleaching agents may include, but are not limited to, kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures. Other bleaching agents will be apparent to the cosmetic formulator. Preferred bleaching agents for use in the present invention are kojic acid and its derivatives and ascorbic acid and its derivatives. The bleaching agent of the present invention is preferably stabilized with an anhydrous gellant. Such anhydrous gels of the present invention include, but are not limited to, castor oil derivatives, eg, trihydroxystearin; silicone polymers, silicone gums, clays, bentonite; and styrene / ethylene / propylene block copolymers. If the gellant contains metal ions, it must first be treated with an appropriate chelating agent to avoid reaction between the metal ions and the active ingredients. Suitable chelating agents are well understood by the skilled cosmetic formulation technician. The use of the gellant allows the water-soluble acids to be stabilized for inclusion in an anhydrous delivery system of the present invention. The bleaching agent of the present invention is preferably present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in an amount of about 0.10 to about 10.0% by weight, more preferably about 0.50 to about 5.0% by weight and most preferably about 1.0. to about 3.0% by weight. The bleaching agent can be combined with the gellant before the combination with the cosmetic base or the bleaching agent and the gellant can be sequentially incorporated into the cosmetic base. An exfoliant is also used in the composition according to the present invention. The exfoliant not only improves the whitening / lightening properties of the bleaching agent but also improves the overall appearance and feel of the skin. An exfoliant may be used, such as an alpha hydroxy acid, namely lactic acid, as well as, glycolic acid, citric acid and malic acid in the cosmetic composition of the present invention. There are many other AHAs, or equivalent alpha keto acids and the like, which are known, including some beta hydroxy acids, for example salicylic acid, which may also be used in accordance with the present invention. The preferred exfoliant for use in the present invention is lactic acid. An absorbent carrier may be used in conjunction with the present invention. In accordance with the invention, a variety of materials can be used as a carrier to deliver a dermatologically active ingredient or agent, for example, an exfoliant, such as an alpha hydroxy acid to the skin in an active agent form while protecting the skin. Active ingredient of other cosmetic ingredients that can deactivate it. Suitable carrier materials include, but are not limited to, organic polymeric microspheres and inorganic particles. Some commercially available microspherical powders useful in the preparation of the cosmetic materials of this invention include organic polymeric materials, such as, polyethylene, polypropylene and copolymers thereof, polyurethane, polyesters, polyamides, polymethylmethacrylate, nylon, copolymers of ethylene acrylates and copolymers of polyvinylidene. Substantially, any non-toxic, non-irritating, cosmetically compatible organic polymeric material in an adsorptive or satisfactorily absorbent form for the purposes of this invention can be provided and that compatible with the anhydrous carrier can be used. Some examples of inorganic particles include talc, clays, modified organic clays, kaolin, mica, calcium salicylate and various carbonates of various metals, for example, calcium and magnesium. Although the carrier can function effectively in larger sizes, the carrier particles must not be very large or their presence as a component of the composition will be apparent to the user and may give a rough or sandy particulate, rather than a soft feel for the cosmetic . Thus, at least eighty percent of the particles do not exceed preferably 50 microns and more preferably do not exceed 20 microns. The particles should also not be very small, or they can be absorbed in the sebaceous follicles, which, although acceptable, is not desirable, and will provide a very small storage volume for the dermatologically active active agent. Within limits to provide a satisfactory cosmetic sensation by spraying, the carrier particles must be relatively large to be able to release the active ingredient from either the surface or through surface openings from internal volumes of the particles. Preferably, at least eighty percent of the carrier particles are in excess of 10 microns in diameter. A preferred range particularly for at least eighty percent of the particles is from 10 to 20 microns, more preferably from 10 to 15 microns. A useful average particle size is from 12 to 20 microns. Particularly preferred is a porous carrier particle wherein the liquid phase absorbed within the particle occupies, for example, 10 to 90 percent of the volume of the particle, rather than simply being retained on the surface of the particle. An absorbent matrix powder that serves as a carrier for the topical delivery of the dermatologically active agent or dermatologically active solution may comprise porous synthetic organic polymer microspheres, for example, a cosmetically acceptable polyamide such as nylon 12, in a ratio of from about 0.1 to about 40.0 percent, preferably from about 5.0 to about 20.0 percent, and "* more preferably from about 6.5 to about 10.0 percent by weight of the cosmetic composition." In addition to carrying AHA's, or other dermatologically active hydrophilic agents, the polymeric microspheres Organics impart desirable tactile properties, eg, creamy, powdery and silky qualities to consumer formulations, and increase the light dispersion qualities of the formulation.When they are discharged from AHA or other dermatologically active agents, the Organic polymeric spheres are available to absorb oils from the skin, helping to control oil penetration. Examples of dermatologically suitable active agents that can be delivered to the skin in the compositions of the invention include, but are not limited to, the following: Anesthetics, eg, benzyl alcohol, lidocaine and menthol; Astringent, for example, Virginia hamamide, benzoic acid and aluminum or aluminum / zirconium salts; Keratolytics, for example, resorcinol, salicylic acid, ascorbic acid and acetic acid; Exfoliants, for example, lactic acid, glycolic acid and other alpha or beta hydroxy acids; Vasoconstrictors, for example, phenylephrinephrine hydrochloride; external analgesics, for example, tripelenamine hydrochloride and camphor; Anti-inflammatory agents, for example, salts of glycyrrhizic acid, alpha bisabolol; Derivatives of salicylate and ibuprofen; Anti-irritants, for example, allantoin, proteins, trimethyl glycine, glycine, ascorbic acid, ferulic acid, sodium lactate; Bleaching agents, for example, ascorbyl magnesium phosphate, hydrogen peroxide, kojic acid and hydroquinone; Lipolytic agents, for example, caffeine, aminophylline, and other xanthine bases; Pigment improvers, for example, dihydroxy acetone; sunscreens, for example, diethanolamine parametoxycinnamate, glyceryl aminobenzoate, 2-hydroxy-4-methoxy-benzophenone-5-sulfonic acid, 2-phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid; Moisturizers and humectants, for example, panthenol chloride, lactamiopropyl trimonium, salts of pyrrolidone carboxylic acid, and polyethylene glycol, with molecular weights from about 40 to about 10,000 daltons, propylene glycol / ethylene glycol copolymers, glycerin, polyglyceryl polymers, mono -, di-, tri- or polysaccharides or mono-, di-, tri- or reduced polysaccharides or their derivatives, propylene glycol, polypropylene glycol with molecular weights from about 100 to about 10,000 daltons, hygroscopic amino acids, peptides and polypeptides or their derivatives , glycosamin glycans, amides or esters of alpha or beta hydroxy acids, ethoxylated derivatives of glycerin, propylene glycol, butanol or pentanol, inositon and choline chloride; Nutrients, for example, vitamin C, vitamin B, folic acid, and minerals for example calcium, magnesium, iron, zinc, manganese, selenium and phosphorus. The moisturizers, when added directly to the skin lightening composition, are more preferably added in the particle carriers to avoid oxidation of the active acid bleaching agents. Equivalent to the preceding examples and other guidelines herein will suggest other dermatologically suitable active agents to be included in the compositions of the invention. Some of such agents are listed in OTC Monographs and the Physician's Desk Reference which are hereby included by reference thereto. Some of these agents, and others, are described in U.S. Patent No. 5,292,512 to Schaefer et al., The disclosure of which is also incorporated herein by reference thereto. The most preferred dermatologically active agents for use in the present invention are exfoliants, such as alpha hydroxy acids, specifically lactic acid. One or more dermatologically active agents, including an exfoliant, are present in the cosmetic composition of the present invention in a range from about 0.01 to about 20.0 weight percent of the composition may be incorporated into preferred embodts of the current composition. More preferably these agents can be added from about 0.5 to about 8.0 percent and even more preferably from about 1.0 to about 5.0 percent. Other active agents can be used in equivalent proportions depending on their activity. Although some dermatologically active agents possess properties, for example a fairly low melting point, which allows them to be absorbed or adsorbed directly to or in the carrier matrix, others are in crystalline form at room temperature, and are preferably dissolved in a solvent system hydrophilic suitable for the active agent. Preferably, also the solvent system must have little or no affinity for the anhydrous base essentially.

This is important to retain both the solvent and its active solute dermatologically in or on the carrier and to preserve the intended functionality of the dermatologically active agent. Additionally, the solvent must be suitably viscous to help further retard the migration of the active agent dermatologically from the carrier. Also, the solvent must be inert or inactive with respect to, or at least not negatively impact the functionality of the dermatologically active agent. Some classes of liquid hydrophilic solvents or dispersion phase medium which can be used alone or in combination as adjuvants to assist in loading the dermatologically active agent or agents onto or to the particular carrier include, but are not limited to, water, alcohols and ethers. A suitable class of alcohols comprises mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy alcohols having the formula: (OH) R - (CH) - (C) - (CH2) Z - R 1 I (OH) (CH) where R = H, CH 3, or a saturated, unsaturated cyclic or branched alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbons; X = 0 to 1, 000,000; Y = 0 to 100; Z = 0 to 10; and R1 = H, CH3, O-CH3, O-CH2-CH3 Suitable examples of such compounds include glycerin, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propanol, isopropanol, butanol, isobutanol, pentanol, isopentanol, neopentanol, diglycerol, polyglycerol, sorbitol, polyethylene glycerol, and polyol. Suitable ethers include unsubstituted and substituted ethers, for example, UCON® fluid, Union Carbide Corp. or DOWANOL® fluids, Dow Chemical Company or CARBITOL® and CELLOSOLVE® solvents from Union Carbide. In principle, suitable viscous hydrophilic solvents or solvent mixtures can be used with the dermatologically active agent in a ratio of from about 99: 1 to about 1: 99. However, the preferred proportions are chosen to exploit the physical or physico-chemical characteristics of the solvent to deliver the active agent dermatologically in an active form in a liquid phase to be collected by the absorbent carrier particles. For this purpose, although a smaller proportion of solvent may have merit in some circumstances, higher proportions of solvent are preferred. An example of preferred proportions are from about 1: 1 to about 1: 20 parts of solvent agent, on a weight basis. While such proportions may be effective for intercellular active agents, intercellularly more potent active agents may be present, for example, hydrophilic or water soluble hormones such as corticosteroids in minor relative proportions, for example, from about 1: 99 to 1: 20. parts of solvent agents. A preferred solvent for a dermatologically active agent, for example, an alpha hydroxy acid (AHA) is glycerin. The viscosity of the solvent helps to retain the AHA in or on the particulate carrier while the hydrophobicity allows skin moisture to draw the dissolved AHA out of the microparticle. The composition also preferably includes an anti-aging agent, such as Vitamin A palmitate or retinol derivatives, specifically, retinoic acid. The anti-aging agent improves the elasticity of the skin and minimizes the formation of fine wrinkles. The anti-aging agent is present in the cosmetic composition according to the present invention in an amount from about 0.20 to about 10.0 weight percent, more preferably about 1.0 to about 6.0 weight percent, and most preferably about 1.5 to about about 2.5 weight percent. The cosmetic base can be aqueous or anhydrous. Suitable cosmetic base materials are well understood by the skilled artisan. Although an aqueous base can be used, an anhydrous hydrophobic base is preferred. In case an aqueous base is used the expert should minimize, as much as possible, the contact between the water in the base and the active agents that can be degraded by oxidation. The essential or substantially anhydrous preferred base may provide a medium or vehicle for the dispersion of the active agent, said medium may be liquid or semi-solid, for example, a dispersant or solvent for other cosmetic ingredients that bring desired cosmetic properties to the composition . The anhydrous base can thus comprise a more or less volatile, hydrophobic, cosmetic solvent in which a gelling agent is optionally dispersed to provide a desired consistency. The cosmetic bleaching composition of the present invention is best used in conjunction with an aqueous source, most often a hydrating composition. The moisturizer is preferably applied to a surface of the skin before applying the cosmetic whitening composition. Nevertheless, this is not necessary. The whitening cosmetic composition of the present invention may contain, in addition to the active ingredients, a variety of products or processing aids. The addition of such materials is readily understood by the skilled artisan and although a variety of additives are described below, the description is not intended to be limiting. Preferably, the invention provides a film-forming agent to aid the adhesion of the particulate carrier on the skin and to help form an occlusive barrier to increase the accumulation of water at or near the surface of the skin. By film former it is meant that a continuous layer essentially of product is formed on the surface of the skin. By "occlusive" it is meant that a barrier is placed on the surface of the skin, said barrier substantially blocks or retards the loss of volatile materials from the surface of the skin and allows them to accumulate in the upper layers of the skin. For the purpose of this invention, the barrier film is preferably hydrophobic. Some kinds of suitable film forming cosmetics which can be used alone or in combination include, but are not limited to, metal soaps, waxes and film-forming emollients. Some non-limiting examples of each of these classes of film forming cosmetics will now be described. Others will be known to those skilled in the art. Metallic soaps are useful materials that function to aid in adhesion and to promote the formation of a hydrophobic film. The metal soap gelling agent or agents may be an alkaline alkanoate or aluminum alkanoate of six to twenty carbon atoms, for example, the salts of laurate, oleate, or calcium, magnesium, zinc, aluminum or lithium stearate or mixtures thereof . A cosmetic metal soap, for example zinc laurate, can be used in a proportion of from about 1.0 to about 5.0 percent, preferably about 3.0 percent by weight of the composition. Metallic soap functions as an ionic gelling agent, aids in adhesion and is added to the formation of hydrophobic film. Other useful film-forming agents are waxes. Many waxes that can function as suitable film-forming agents in the compositions of the present invention are well known in the cosmetics art. These materials are typically composed of the formula RX, in which R is a cyclic or branched chain alkyl chain, saturated or unsaturated long chain of C8 to C ?, ooo, ooo, X is -H, -OR1, or - C-OR1 1, where R1 is H, or a saturated or unsaturated cyclic or branched chain alkyl radical of Ci, to C2; R1 1 is H or residue of a mono-, di-, tri- or polyhydroxy compound capable of forming a mono-, di-, tri- or polyester. Preferred waxes have melting points which exceed 37.8 ° C. Materials such as glyceryl wax esters, beeswax, ceresin wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax and other pharmaceutically acceptable waxes can be used. A total wax content of from 0 to 10.0 percent is suitable for formulating cosmetics satisfactorily, according to the invention. Preferably, the total wax content does not exceed 5.0 percent and more preferably not more than 3.0 percent. Suitable waxes are, for example, glyceryl tribehenate, ceresin wax and microcrystalline wax used in proportions from about 0.00 to about 5.00 percent, preferably about 0.1 to 1.5 percent. More preferably, from about 0.25 to 0.5 percent waxes such as glyceryl tribehenate and a somewhat greater proportion of about 1 to 2 percent of a ceresin was used. The low wax content obtainable with cosmetic compositions according to the invention has the advantage of providing low drag and improved removability. The functions of the wax useful are adhesion, mpartition of a creamy touch for the product, film formation and increasing viscosity.

Other useful film-forming agents are emollients. These materials are usually liquid at temperatures between 0 ° C and 37.7 ° C. Emollients useful in the present invention include those with the following formula: CnH (2n + 2-x), where n is an integer from 6 to more than 1 million and x is 0 or an even integer no greater than n and can include branched and cyclic, saturated, unsaturated hydrocarbon chains. Examples include: mineral oil, petolato, PERMETHYL® fluids, and polybutylenes. Additional useful film-forming emollients include saturated or unsaturated, mono-, di-, tri- or poly-aminated, cyclic, alkyl esters or ethers of di, tri or polyhydroxy compounds, for example, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, glycerin , sorbitol or polyol. Examples of such emollients include, but are not limited to, vegetable oils, for example, soybean oil, babassu oil, castor oil, cottonseed oil, Chinese bait oil, cabbage oil (crambe), knob, Danish rapeseed oil, rice bran oil, palm oil, palm kernel oil, olive oil, linseed oil, coconut oil, sunflower oil, safflower oil, peanut oil and corn oil . Preferred saturated and unsaturated vegetable oils are those having fatty acid components with 6 to 24 carbon atoms. Suitable additional emollient film-forming agents include esters of the formula: R1-C-OR2 R, - OC- (CH2) "-C-O-R2 (II II -II OOO where R, and R2 are branched or cyclic alkyl radicals , saturated, unsaturated of 2 to 24 carbon atoms and n is an integer from 2 to about 20. The novel cosmetic compositions of the invention may also contain a silicone material to provide some measure of auxiliary film-forming ability. Suitable solvents are preferably insoluble in water and include polyalkylsiloxane gums, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, cyclomethicone polysiloxanes, amino functional polysiloxanes and polyethersiloxane copolymers, teachings directed to additional suitable silicone materials can be found in US Patent Nos. 4,788,006; 4,341, 799; 4, 152,416; 3,964,500; 3,208.91 1; 4,364,837 and 4,465,619, whose descriptions of all are incorporated herein by reference thereto. Another class of suitable auxiliary film-forming agents comprises substances formed by the polymerization of alkylene oxide monomers of the formula: O H (CH 2) n-C-CH 2 where n is an integer from 0 to about 3. These materials can be either a homogeneous polymer or a copolymer of two or more monomers. Examples of homogeneous polymers include polypropylene oxide and polybutylene oxide. Typically, the molecular weights of these materials are between 100 and 10,000 daltons. Additionally, these materials can be condensed with a monohydric or polyhydroxyalkyl alcohol as exemplified by the UCON® fluids of Union Carbide Corp. The film-forming agent can be used alone or in combination with other film-forming agents to achieve the desired aesthetic properties in the final preparation. A preferred range of film-forming agents is from 1 to 99%, more preferably from about 1 to 50% by weight of the composition. Suitable non-hardening film formers, for example, dimethicone, can be used in proportions from about 0.5 to about 5.0 percent, preferably about 0. 6 to 1.5 percent, and more preferably 1.0 percent. Preferred functions include film formation, skin protector or water barrier forming agent, lubricity and silky emollient. Film-improving agents, for example, mica treated with aluminum myristate, in a proportion of from about 4.0 to about 20.0 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 5.0 to 8.0 percent, and more preferably 6.5 percent may be used. Preferred film enhancer functions include adhesion to the skin, imparting a creamy and silky touch to the composition and improved hydrophobic film formation. Although strong adhesive properties can be introduced to anhydrous cosmetic compositions by incorporating waxy film-forming agents, a very high wax content causes drag and a tacky feel when applied to the cosmetic, and can result in a cosmetic that is difficult to remove. To solve this problem, the invention also provides a novel film-forming system comprising relatively high proportions of a particulate mineral gelling agent, for example, a bentonite clay based on a gelling agent, and a metal soap gelling agent. , such as, for example, zinc laurate, while only a small proportion of wax is used, if any are used. When this film system is used in cosmetic compositions containing microspheres it is possible to obtain a good anhydrous film with excellent dispersibility and without stickiness or entrainment. These desirable properties appear to result from a unique combination of the skin-adhering properties of the metallic soap with "ball-bearing" lubricity properties of the microspheres. In a practical embodiment of the invention, the loading of a carrier of an AHA, v. g., lactic acid, is achieved by dissolving the AHA in glycerin and absorbing the AHA dissolved in glycerin in porous microspheres or fine particles of polymer. This system is intended for use in a hydrophobic environment where the AHAs remain in storage within the porous microspheres. When applied to the skin, as the cosmetic is rubbed or massaged into the skin, the microspheres are swept across the surface of the skin, bringing them into contact with moisture which releases the hydrophilic system from AHA-glycerin to from the microporous polymer particles. Once discharged the hollow microspheres are now available to absorb oil, moderating oil penetration trends. The AHA is preferably charged to the carrier particles, for example, porous nylon particles in a liquid medium which must be sufficiently viscous to be maintained in the pores of the particles during formulation. The lactic acid melts at 16.8 ° C and can be absorbed into porous carrier particles, without the need for any auxiliary, at temperatures above this point of effusion, by mixing in appropriate proportions of microspheres to lactic acid, for example, about 1: 1 by weight, until the lactic acid is absorbed. Other acids, such as a mixture of fruit acids, can be similarly charged onto the carrier particles by stirring, that is, by mixing, by the use of fine powders with a particle size small enough to be contained in the pores of the carrier. The skin lightening or bleaching benefits that result from the whitening cosmetic composition may begin to be apparent only after long-term use of the cosmetic composition of the invention on a regular basis, eg daily, over a period of weeks by example, 4 or 6 weeks or more. A preferred hydrophobic vehicle for the microsphere particles loaded with active agent is a silicone gel, which is preferably formulated using a volatile silicone solvent such as a dimethicone. A preferred gelling agent is a trihydroxystearipa. A volatile solvent, for example a cyclomethicone, preferably the pentameric form, can be used as a hydrophobic carrier, for example for a cream-to-powder composition. Suitable proportions are from about 20.0 to about 70.0 weight percent of the composition. Preferably about 30 to 40 percent, and more preferably about 33.0 percent. Volatile solvents work as wetting agents although they evaporate quickly to the application. Some alternative or additional volatile silicone solvents are described hereinafter. A suitable gelling agent for a volatile solvent, for example, quaternium 18 bentonite, is present from about 1.0 to about 15.0 percent, more preferably from about 3 to 10 percent, and more preferably about 5.0 to 6.0 percent. The gelling agent physically stabilizes the composition and functions as a pigment suspension vehicle, if a pigment is present, and can also absorb oil and reduce gloss. In some formulations a humectant oil may be used.

If a wetting agent is used, for example, sorbitan isostearate, it is present in an amount of from about 1.0 to about 10.0 weight percent of the composition preferably about 3.5 to 4.5 percent, and more preferably about 4.0 percent. can be used Preferred wetting agents allow an increased capacity of solid material, and impart a hydrophobic film. In appropriate cosmetics, synthetic polymeric microspheres can be used in addition to the AHA carrier powder, for example polymethylmethacrylate, in a proportion of from 8.0 to about 20.0 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 15.0 percent and more preferably 12.0 percent. . Such additional polymeric microspheres act as touch enhancers, providing a touch of "ball bearings" in the application, and a dry, velvety feel after the application and evaporation of the solvent. Additional functions include light dispersion and imparting a powdery feel to the product. A solvent solvent of low volatility, oily, for example, Isononyl sononanoate is useful for controlling the volatility and molecular weight of the solvent system in a proportion of from about 1.0 to about 10.0 weight percent, preferably from about 4.0 to 6.0 percent, and more preferably about 5.0 percent of a solvent. Preferred solvents also function as lipophilic emollients, assist in the solubilization of the ingredients and are miscible with the volatile carrier solvent (eg, dimethicone). One or more oil-soluble moisturizers, for example lauryl PCA, may be used in a ratio of from about 0.4 to about 2.5 percent, preferably about 0.5 percent, or cetyl dimethicone, in a ratio from about 1. 0 to about 5.0 weight percent of the composition, to increase wetting. Cetyl Dimethicone provides a dry, light touch and aids in film formation. A moisturizer may be incorporated into the cosmetic composition of the present invention, but if incorporated, it is preferably charged to porous microspheres and dispersed in the composition. As an alternative for the incorporation of a moisturizer, or in conjunction with the incorporation of a moisturizer, a moisturizer can be applied to the skin prior to the application of the bleaching cosmetic according to the present invention. The bleaching cosmetic of the present invention works best in the presence of a water source. The water source is for the purpose of hydrating the skin. Suitable hydration sources include liquid water added specifically to hydrate the skin or incidentally, such as, directly after a bath or shower. Hydration can also be achieved through the application of a moisturizer or other aqueous phase composition. Kaolin or other oil absorbers can be used in a proportion of from about 0.50 to about 3.0 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 0.7 to 1.5 percent, and more preferably 1.0 percent. Preferred functions of the oil absorber include absorption of excess skin oils, adhesion to the skin, light diffusion, and opacification.

An opacifier, for example titanium dioxide, may be used in a proportion from about 0.10 to about 5.0 weight percent of the composition, preferably about 0.3 to 1. 0 percent, and more preferably 0.50 percent to provide coverage and help cover skin defects. A polar activating volatile solvent for the gellant, for example hexylene glycol, can be used in a proportion from about 0.75 to about 3.0 weight percent of the composition preferably less than about 2.0 percent, more preferably not more than about 1.0 percent. This will act as a plasticizer, binder, solvent and softener while providing resistance to moisture and oxidation. Preservatives such as, for example, methyl or propyl paraben, can be used in proportions of, for example, 0.1 to 0.3 weight percent, as is known to those skilled in the art. Other optional ingredients may be used, as is known to those skilled in the art, including pigments and fragrances. Some additional optional ingredients are: vitamin E linoleate, in a percentage of approximately 0.10 percent as a complementary moisturizer; Vitamin E acetate, at approximately 0.10 percent which functions as a scavenger of free radicals and an antioxidant; retinyl palmitate, at approximately 0.1 percent which functions as a retinoic acid derivative to reduce fine lines; ceramides in a percentage below approximately 0.3 percent which functions as a skin firming agent; sphingolipids, serve for the function of affirming the skin in a percentage below approximately 0.3 percent. Sphingolipids also work to improve the skin barrier, which increases hydration and decreases the penetration of irritating substances. A class of cyclomethicone compounds that is preferred for use in the cosmetic compositions of this invention is illustrated by compounds of the formula - [R? R2SiO] r, -, in which Ri and R2 is each lower alkyl having from one to four carbon atoms with or without substitutes selected from the group consisting of halo, hydroxyl, carboxyl or methoxy and n is from 3 to 6; said compounds are cyclized. The volatile cyclomethycone solvent used may be a simple one of the foregoing compounds or a mixture thereof and the compound or compounds may be a homopolymer in which all n-monomer units are similar, or a heteropolymer in which they are different. Some preferred cyclomethicones are dimethicones especially homopolymers in which n is 4 or 5; and R, and R2 is each methyl such as octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and decamethylcyclopentasi loxane. Depending on the character of the final product composition, for example, a lotion, a powder, a cream, a stick, other optional ingredients may be used, as is known to those skilled in the art, in proportions known to those skilled in the art. technique. Such ingredients include, but are not limited to, fragrance, color, pigments, preservatives, wetting agents, oil absorbers, opacifiers, and antioxidants.

The following examples are provided to illustrate the invention. Because these examples will be for illustrative purposes only, the invention should not be limited thereto.

EXAMPLE 1 A dry mixture of ascorbic acid was produced by combining the following materials in the following proportions by weight. P / P% Ascorbic Acid 3.00 Zinc Laurato 3.00 Kaolin 1.00 Silica 0.20 Barium Sulfate 3.80 1 1.00% EXAMPLE 2 Using the dry ascorbic acid mixture of Example 1, a cosmetic composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients below in the annotated proportions. The composition was applied to the skin which caused improved skin tone and clarification. P / p% Dimethicone, 350 Vise. 1.00 Sorbitan Isostearate 4.00 Isononyl Isononoate 5.00 PCA Lauryl 0.50 Cetil Dimethicone 2.13 Glyceryl Tribehenate 0.32 Ceresin Wax 1.43 Microcrystalline 0.32 Propyl Paraben 0.10 Methyl Paraben 0.30 Cyclomethicone 33.55 Nylon-12 / Lactic Acid (30%) 3.33 Dry Mix of Acid Ascorbic 1 1.00 Nylon-12 6.67 Beds PMMA 12.00 Tixogel RCM (trihydroxy stearin) 16.00 Tocoferol 0.50 Linoleate Tocopherol Acetate 0.50 Retinyl Palmitate. 0.10 Parsol MCX 0.50 Lavender 0.30 Hydrophobic Sphingolipids 0.50 100% EXAMPLE 3 A dry mixture of kojic acid was produced by combining the following materials in the following proportions by weight. P / P% Zinc Laurate 1.00 Cabosil 0.41 Barium Sulfate 2.07 Disodium EDTA 0.10 FD &C Red 40 0.01 FD &C Yellow # 5 0.02 Titanium Dioxide 1.00 Methyl Paraben 0.30 Prodil Paraben 0.10 Sodium Lactate 100% 1.05 Cronic Acid 1.00 7.06% EXAMPLE 4 Using the dried kojic acid mixture of Example 3, a cosmetic composition was prepared by mixing the ingredients listed below in the annotated proportions. The composition was applied to the skin of the hand which caused improved skin tone and clarification. P / P% Dimethicone 5.00 Cetil Dimethicone 10.00 Glyceryl Tribehenate 0.38 Paraffin Wax 1.72 Microcrystalline Wax 0.38 Cyclomethicone 17.37 Dry Mix of Cyanic Acid 7.05 Lactic Acid / Glycerin / Nylon 10.00 Nylon-12 4.00 Beds PMMA 1 1 .00 Trihydroxystearin (5.45%) / Cyclomethicone 31 .00 Tocopherol 0.20 Tocopherol acetate 0.50 Retinyl palmitate 0.10 P-Methoxycinnamate ethylhexyl 0.50 Lavender 0.30 Hydrophobic sphingolipids 0.50 100% EXAMPLE 5 The bleaching effect of the compositions according to the present invention was tested using 3 panels of 20 women. The panelists were 35-60 and had to meet a skin classification Fitzpatrick from I to III. The panelists were excluded with a Classification Glogau Modified from I to IV. Skin Classification Fitzpatrick always burns easily; never tan II always burns easily; tans minimally III moderately burns; tans gradually IV burn minimally; always tan well V rarely burns; tans profusely VI never burns; Intense pigmentation Glogau smooth modification: no keratosis or marks; small moderate wrinkles: early actinic keratosis - slightly yellow skin; discoloration; early wrinkle parallel to the advanced smile line: actinic keratosis - obviously yellow skin; discoloration with wrinkle of telangiectasia - present at rest; moderate acne marks severe IV: actinic keratosis; skin cancers have occurred; wrinkles - a lot of complexion of actinic, gravitational and dynamic origin; severe acne marks.

The duration of the test was 13 weeks during which time each of the three panels used one of the following: I VISIBLE ACTION SKIN REVEALING LOTION® II An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present invention together with VISIBLE ACTION SKIN REVEALING LOTION® II I An anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present invention together with a moisturizing lotion for body care. VISIBLE ACTION SKIN REVEALING LOTION® Visible action skin revealing lotion is a moisturizer produced as a combination of the following ingredients in the proportions noted as a percentage by weight. 2. 0% Acetylated Lanolin 4.0% Stearyl Alcohol and Cetearet 20 2.5% Stearyl Alcohol 5.0% Butyl Ether PPG-14 1 .0% Ethyl Acetate, Acetylate 0.25% Dimethicone 70.5% Water 3.0% Methyl Gluceth-10 0.25% Xanthan Gum 3.0% Water 30.% Lactic acid 88% 3.0% Sodium lactate 0.20% Propyl butylcarbamate iodine 0.20% DMDM 0.08% Hydantoin Japanese green tea Actifilta 0.20% Wheat-Barley-Soy-Millet 0.50% Retinyl Palmitate 0.25% Fragrance 0.06% Bisabolol The Anhydrous Cosmetic according to the present invention. The anhydrous cosmetic composition according to the present invention is a skin whitening or lightening composition. The anhydrous composition includes the following ingredients as a percentage by weight: 5.0% Dimethicone 10.0% Cetyl Dimethicone 0.38% Glycerium Tribehenate 1.72% Paraffin Wax 0.38% Microcrystalline Wax 10.4% Cyclomethicone 6.97% Cyclomethicone 1.05% Sodium Lactate 6.0% Dry mix acid 10.0% Lactic acid mixture 4.0% Nylon 12 1 1.0% Beds PMMA 31.0% Tixogel RCM 0.2% Tocopherol 0.5% Tocopherol acetate 0.1% Retinyl palmitate 0.5% Ethylhexyl P-methoxycinnamate 0.3% Lavender 0.5% Hydrophobic sphingolipids The compositions according to the invention resulted in an improvement of 20 to 35% in uniformity of skin tone, an increase of 30 to 35% in skin elasticity, an improvement of 50 to 60% of skin firmness, a reduction of 30 to 80% in the appearance of wrinkling, an improvement of 30 to 40% in clarity of skin, a reduction of 30 to 40% in fine lines, a reduction of 40 to 50% in roughness of skin, and an improvement in to 30% in the overall condition of the skin. Although illustrative embodiments of the invention have been described above and are appended, it is understood, of course, that various modifications will be apparent to those of ordinary skill in the art.

Claims (17)

1 . A topically applied cosmetic composition comprising: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; b) an exfoliant selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and salicylic acid; c) a sufficient amount of an adsorbent or carrier of particulate adsorbent to support said exfoliant; and d) a cosmetic base, said base having a sufficient amount of a film-forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, wherein said cosmetic base is a hydrophobic cosmetic base, essentially anhydrous.

3. The cosmetic composition according to claim 1, further comprising an anti-aging composition selected from the group consisting of Vitamin A Palmitate and retinol and its derivatives.

4. The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein said composition further includes an anhydrous gellant.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 4, wherein said anhydrous gellant is selected from castor oil derivatives, silicone polymers, silicone gums, bentonite clays, and styrene / ethylene / propylene block copolymers.

6. The cosmetic composition according to claim 5, wherein said anhydrous gellant is trihydroxystearin.

The cosmetic composition according to claim 2, wherein said hydrophobic phase cosmetic base includes one or more solvents selected from a polar glycerin solvent, a silicone solvent, and mixtures thereof.

8. A stabilized bleaching composition comprising: a bleach selected from kojic acid and its derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; and a selected gellant of castor oil derivatives, silicone polymers, silicone gums, bentonite clays, and styrene / ethylene / propylene block copolymers.

9. The bleaching composition according to claim 8, wherein the bleach is selected from kojic acid, ascorbic acid and mixtures thereof and the gellant is selected from trihydroxystearin.

A method for skin lightening comprising: applying to the surface of the skin a source of water followed by the application to said skin of a bleaching cosmetic composition comprising: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid and Their derivatives; ascorbic acid and its derivatives, including magnesium ascorbic acid; hydroquinone; extract of Arctostaphylos uva-ursi; licorice extract; blackberry extract; arbutin; and its mixtures; b) an exfoliant selected from the group consisting of lactic acid, glycolic acid, malic acid, citric acid and salicylic acid; c) a sufficient amount of an adsorbent or carrier of particulate adsorbent to support said exfoliant; and d) a cosmetic base, said base having a sufficient amount of a film-forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.

The method according to claim 10, wherein said cosmetic base is a hydrophobic cosmetic base, essentially anhydrous.

The method according to claim 10, wherein said bleaching cosmetic further comprises an anti-aging composition selected from the group consisting of Vitamin A Palmitate and retinol and its derivatives.

13. The method according to claim 1, wherein said bleaching composition further includes an anhydrous gellant.

The method according to claim 13, wherein said anhydrous gellant is selected from castor oil derivatives, silicone polymers, silicone gums, bentonite clays, and styrene / ethylene / propylene block copolymers.

15. The cosmetic composition according to claim 14, wherein said anhydrous gelant is trihydroxystearin.

The method according to claim 1, wherein said hydrophobic phase cosmetic base includes one or more solvents selected from a polar glycerin solvent, a silicone solvent, and mixtures thereof.

17. An essentially anhydrous, hydrophobic, topically applied cosmetic composition comprising: a) a bleaching agent selected from the group consisting of kojic acid, ascorbic acid, and mixtures thereof; b) a lactic acid exfoliant; c) an anti-aging agent selected from Vitamin A Palmitate and retinol and its derivatives; d) a sufficient amount of a particulate adsorbent adsorbent or carrier to support the exfoliant; and e) a hydrophobic, essentially anhydrous cosmetic base said base having a sufficient amount of a film forming agent to produce a desired cosmetic film when said cosmetic composition is applied to the skin.