MXPA99005928A

MXPA99005928A - Antiperspirant or deodorant composition

Info

Publication number: MXPA99005928A
Application number: MXPA/A/1999/005928A
Authority: MX
Inventors: Claire Helene Marie Esser Isabelle
Original assignee: Unilever Plc
Priority date: 1996-12-23
Filing date: 1999-06-23
Publication date: 2000-01-21

Abstract

A substantially anhydrous stick antiperspirant or deodorant composition comprising an antiperspirant or deodorant active, a carrier for the active and a moisturising cream comprising one or more humectants, which comprise at least one hydroxyl group and a perfume carrier material.

Description

DEODORANT OR ANTITRANSPIRANT COMPOSITION The invention relates to antiperspirant or deodorant compositions, but in particular to antiperspirant compositions, comprising a moisturizing cream suitable for topical application to human skin, solid compositions are especially suitable for use as a cosmetic stick together with a receptacle of the invention. bar.

The market for deodorants and antiperspirants is dominated by products based on aluminum or zirconium salts that are thought to prevent, or at least control, perspiration on the surface of the skin, particularly in the underarms, while they often simultaneously provide a degree perceived deodorance.

Various physical forms of antiperspirant compositions are known, for example aerosol, lotion, or solid form.

When the antiperspirant is provided as a solid composition for use in the form of a bar§, it is known to incorporate the active components that may be present in the composition, such as for example aluminum or zirconium salts and the other components of the composition, in a cosmetically acceptable vehicle comprising mostly silica oils (volatile or non-volatile), and a matrix of long chain fatty acids that act as a structurant.

For example, in US Pat. No. 4,126,679 (Armour-Dial), there is described the possibility of manufacturing solid antiperspirant stick compositions comprising pulverized astringent metal salts, suspended in a matrix comprising volatile silica oils, and 15 to 70% of alcohols selected from long-chain water insoluble aliphatic alcohols having 16-22 carbon atoms in the chain.

EP-B-117,070 (Procter &Gamble) describes a solid bar of antiperspirant composition comprising 5 to 20% of a long chain fatty alcohol having from 8 to 18 carbon atoms in its chain, 35 to 55% of a volatile polydimethyl silicon, 10 to 70% of an astringent antiperspirant salt, and 1 to 3% by weight of the total level of a long chain fatty alcohol of the composition of an additional long chain fatty alcohol selected from the C 20 - fatty alcohols C26, or mixtures of these.

A problem with existing solid stick formulations in general are the poor sensory properties as perceived by the user, and their perceived hostility to the skin. More particularly, the presence of volatile carriers such as volatile silica and in fact the active deodorant and antiperspirant is perceived to have a drying and tightness effect on the skin of a user immediately following the application that produces dry skin, reduced elasticity of the skin, and an unpleasant feeling on the skin.

According to a first aspect of the invention there is provided a substantially anhydrous antiperspirant stick or a deodorant composition comprising an antiperspirant or deodorant active, a vehicle for the active and a humectant cream comprising one or more humectants comprising at least one hydroxyl group, and a perfume vehicle material.

An object of the invention is to provide such a composition which has excellent antiperspirant, cosmetic and aesthetic efficacy excellent such as comfort in use and softness in application.

According to a further and preferred aspect of the invention there is provided a substantially anhydrous antiperspirant stick composition suitable topical application to human skin, comprising: i. an effective amount of an antiperspirant active; ii. a volatile silica; iii. a structuring; iv. a moisturizing cream containing a humectant having at least one hydroxyl group; and V. a perfume vehicle material.

Suitably, the antiperspirant or deodorant active comprises from 1-35% by weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the composition additionally comprises a non-volatile emollient.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the invention provides an antiperspirant substantially anhydrous stick composition suitable for topical application to human skin, comprising: i. 10-25% by weight of the total composition of an antiperspirant active; ii. 5-60% by weight of the total composition of a linear or cyclic volatile silica; iii. 5 to 30% by weight of the total composition of long-chain water insoluble aliphatic alcohols having 16-22 carbon atoms in the chain; iv. 0.1 to 30% by weight of a moisturizing cream, one of whose components is a humectant having at least one hydroxyl group; and V. 0.1-5% of a perfume carrier material.

We have surprisingly found that a humectant cream containing a humectant having at least one hydroxyl group can be incorporated in an antiperspirant or stick deodorant composition to produce a bar composition having such improved and attractive cosmetic characteristics expected such sticks, as well as satisfactory efficacy .

Moisturizers are well known in the art and are cosmetic ingredients intended to increase the volume of water in the upper layers of the skin. This group of ingredients mainly includes hygroscopic agents used for this specific purpose. Hydrating agents of particular interest for the present invention are polyols and alcohols such as sorbitol, glycerol, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol or mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention comprises a hygroscopic material known as a humectant, preferably a polyol or an alcohol of 0.1% to 15%, preferably 0.5 to 8%, more preferably 0.5 to 3% by weight of the total composition.

Surprisingly, we also find that to obtain a superior aesthetic composition according to the invention that incorporates a moisturizing cream that includes one or more humectants in particular the polyols, it was necessary to incorporate an additional ingredient into the composition. We found that materials that can interact physically or chemically with the humectant present in the moisturizer to bind it are effective. The materials that act as perfume carriers have been found to be particularly effective.

The incorporation of such perfume carrier material has been found to be essential in compositions according to the invention in that it prevents the stick composition from becoming gritty during or briefly after manufacture, and as such losing the superior aesthetic properties such as softness in application and Comfort in use that are obtained by the inclusion of the moisturizing cream. Without wishing to be confined by the theory, it is suspected that the presence of the material carrying the perfume in the composition prevents the active antiperspirant from crystallizing or agglomerating, which would otherwise be caused by an interaction between the humectant and the antiperspirant active, preventing this to the composition to develop a sandy texture which is perceived by and unacceptable to the user.

A parameter that has to be controlled very closely with bar formulations is the hardness of the bar. This is not only important because it determines the storage properties of the bar, in particular the resistance of the bar to degradation caused by extreme temperatures, but also because it determines sedimentation. of the antiperspirant composition that occurs when the bar is used for a given application pass.

Viewed against the prior art, it has been found that cosmetic bars with desirable hardness have economic performance and the skin feel can be made by incorporating a moisturizing cream.

Preferably, the moisturizing creams in the stick composition according to the invention will normally be a dispersion, and the term can equally apply to non-aqueous products such as wax-based products and ointments. The term also includes cream consistency dispersion products.

The moisturizer creams used in the compositions according to the invention are those which aid in the retention of water to plasticize the outer layers of the epidermis to promote a smooth and smooth skin. If the stratum corneum water is lost more quickly than that received from the lower layers of the epidermis, the skin becomes dehydrated and loses its flexibility.

The moisturizing creams according to the invention will typically work or by the well-known route of wetting only either alone or in combination with the other two main routes of wetting, namely the occlusion and restoration of deficient materials. Typically, the moisturizing cream is present in the composition at a level of 0.1 to 30%, more preferably 10 to 28% by weight.

The approach consists of the use of humectants to attract water from the surrounding environment and thus supplement the water content of the skin. Occlusion involves reducing the proportion of transepidermal water loss through old or damaged skin or protecting otherwise healthy skin from the effect of a drying environment. The last approach is to determine the mechanism of the skin's moistening process, and to supplement the skin in its deficiencies.

In compositions according to the invention, it is a component of the moisturizing cream of the composition that provides a wetting benefit.

The composition according to the invention will be substantially anhydrous and will therefore comprise water at a level of less than 2%, preferably less than 1% and more preferably less than 0.2% by weight of the total composition.

The perfume carrier in compositions according to the invention comprises a material that can be strongly bound to the humectant. This is taken to mean chemical or physical linkage form, and may include effects such as adsorption, absorption, H-bonding, and so on. Particularly effective are materials known as perfume carriers, such as smoked silica, calcite, zeolite MAP, or finely ground zeolite 4A, at at least a level of 0.1% and up to a level of 15%, preferably up to 8%, more preferably up to 5% by weight of the total composition. Suitable silicas include the Aerosil 200 or Cab-o-Sil in commercial grade. Other perfume carrying materials suitable for use in compositions according to the invention are described in PTC / GB95 / 05000, published July 18, 1996, the content of which is incorporated herein by reference.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise an antiperspirant or deodorant active. Examples of suitable antiperspirant active include aluminum salts, zirconium salts, aluminum and / or zirconium complexes, for example aluminum halides, aluminum hydroxyhalides, zirconyl oxyhalides, zirconyl hydroxyhalides, and mixtures thereof. Useful zirconium salts include zirconium hydroxychloride and zirconium oxychloride. Other assets generally used will be known to those skilled in the art. Preferred active ingredients include AAZG (Activated Aluminum Zirconium Glicolamine), ZAG (Aluminum Zirconium Glicolamine), and AACH (Activated Aluminum Hydrochloride).

The amount of antiperspirant or deodorant active present in the composition according to the invention is from 1.0 to 35%, preferably from 5 to 30%, more preferably from 10 to 25% by weight of the total composition.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise as part of the carrier one or more long chain fatty alcohols as structurants. Such materials are well known in the art and include fatty acids, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters, and fatty acid amides and have fatty chains of 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Typically, the structuring can comprise from 5 to 40%, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight of the total composition of long-chain water-insoluble aliphatic alcohols having 12-22 carbon atoms in the chain, more preferably having 16-22 carbon atoms in the chain. Stearic alcohol is particularly preferred.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a linear or cyclic volatile silica. Useful silicas include cyclic or linear polydimethyl silicas containing from 3 to 9, preferably 4 to 6, silicon atoms.

Examples of convenient volatile silicas include polydimethyl cyclosiloxanes and have a viscosity of less than 10mm.sup.2, examples of these are fluids 344 and 244 of DOW CORNING (tetramer) and Fluids 245 and 345 of DOW CORNING (pentamer). Other suitable silicas include hexamethyldisiloxane which does not have a viscosity of more than 0.65 mm2s_1, for example the DOW CORNING 200 Fluid having a viscosity of 0.65 mm2s "1 as determined according to the method provided in the data sheets provided by the manufacturer in these compounds.

The preferred volatile silicas are the cyclic forms.

The amount of volatile silica present in the composition according to the invention can typically be from 1 to 60%, preferably from 5 to 60%, more preferably 20 to 55% by weight of the total composition.

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise other ingredients, in addition to those already identified and depends on the nature and form of the terminal product.

Examples of other ingredients that may optionally be present in the composition according to the invention include: Emollients, such as non-volatile silicas, hydrocarbons or mineral oils. Suitable non-volatile silicas include polydimethylsiloxane having a viscosity of more than 5mm2s "1, for example, 50 to 1000 mm2s" 1 such as DOW CORNING 200 Fluids (normal viscosities of 50-1000 mm2s_1). Other useful emollients include PEG 400 distearate, and ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide condensation products having the following formula: RO (C2H40) a (C3H6O) bH where R is hydrogen or a hydrocarbon chain having from about 2 to 20 carbon atoms, and a and b is each from about 0 to 35 and a + b is from about 5 to 35.

Examples of such emollients are AP Fluids (Amerchol) and Ethylflo (Union Carbide).

Still further emollients suitable for use in the compositions of solid bars present include the fatty acids and ethers of fatty alcohols and water insoluble ethers.

Fillers can comprise up to about 10% of the total product and are usually less expensive than the essential components of the invention thus reducing the overall cost. Suitable fillers include aluminum stearate, aluminum tri-stearate, calcium stearate, talc or finely divided polyethylene, an example of which is ACUMIST B18.

The fragrances typically comprise up to about 1% of the total product.

Other optional ingredients are other cosmetic adjuncts conventionally employed in bar deodorant products. A preferred optional component includes a natural or synthetic wax such as castor wax, Synchrowax HRC, Carnaubau, beeswax, silica wax and glycerol monostearate and mixture thereof at levels of about 1 to 10%, preferably 2 to 8. %. If present, it is believed that the wax reinforces the structural stability of the composition in the molten state.

The ingredients that may optionally be present in the composition may conveniently form the balance of the composition.

The composition according to the invention can take the form of a prepared solid product or adapter for topical application to human skin. A convenient form of the composition according to the invention is a solid stick, normally contained in a convenient receptacle or dispenser to allow it to be applied to the skin area, particularly the armpits, where control of perspiration and deodorance is required.

The invention also provides the use of a solid stick antiperspirant composition, according to the invention, as hereinbefore. defined, in the control of perspiration, following topical application to human skin.

The antiperspirant sticks of this invention can be manufactured using methods known in the art. Typically the method consists of melting the waxes in the liquid of the carrier in a vessel at a temperature of 65-95 ° C with stirring. Other non-particulate ingredients (eg emollients and preservatives) are slowly added by mixing, and then all the non-particulate ingredients such as the antiperspirant active, talc, and so on are added slowly with stirring, at about 65 ° C. Finally, perfume is added to the composition by stirring. The molten composition can then be molded into bars of the desired shape and cooled.

Care must be taken in the manufacturing processes of these compositions to maintain a uniform distribution of the particulate materials along the antiperspirant stick.

It has been found very advantageous to process the bar according to the invention by pre-mixing in a liquid vehicle the humectant with the perfume carrier or any material that performs the same function, and homogenizing this mixture using a high shear homogenizing device with a stator rotor system which ensures that all materials pass through the zone of high stress, ie the gap between the stator rotor assembly, to allow the union of these components to occur. The minimum shear stress threshold (ie "high shear stress") is 1500 to 2000 sec. "1 Convenient high shear devices include devices such as a Moritz high shear turbo-mixer, or a Silverson. may have added the components of the structurant can then be added, the structuring components of the composition, heated until the components are melted, and add the antiperspirant active together with other particulates of the composition, the composition is then cooled, the perfume is added , and it is molded into the barrels.

EXAMPLES The invention is illustrated more extensively by the following examples.

EXAMPLE 1 The following cream was formulated according to the following protocol. All ingredients were heated to 75 ° C. The cream texture was obtained using a high shear homogenizer while the formulated product is cooling to provide a fluid product.

The previous cream, showed to be in-vivo moisturizer since it increased skin elasticity as measured by the DIATRON Torsion Dermal Meter, and the hydration of the skin as measured using a Corneometer CM 820 PC Skin Hygrometer after a day compared to no treatment in a five-day trial protocol. The increase in skin elasticity and hydration of the skin compared to the untreated area was significant at a 95% safety level after one day.

EXAMPLE 2 A deodorant composition containing 25% of the moisturizing cream of Example 1 and suitable for a stick applicator was formulated without a perfume vehicle.

A typical manufacturing method was used, ie the waxes were melted in the liquids, the particulate ingredients were added slowly with stirring, and the molten composition was molded into bars.

The resulting bar was found to be sandy giving it unacceptable properties for uncomfortable application and application as well as reduced efficiency.

EXAMPLE 3 Two identical antiperspirant compositions containing % of the moisturizer of example 1 and suitable for a bar applicator were formulated by adding silica (vaporized silica Aerosil 200) at a level of 2% by weight of the total composition.

The first bar was manufactured using the same method as in example 2.

The resulting bar was found to be sandy giving it unacceptable properties for use including cumbersome application (skin abrasion) which was noticed by the users.

The second bar was manufactured according to the process of the present invention; that is, the humectant, the perfume vehicle and the solvent carrier were previously mixed at a high shear stress using a homogenizer device with rotor stator system, ensuring that the mixture passed through the zone of high shear stress. The minimum shear threshold was 1500 sec "1. Then the waxes were melted in the mixture and the particulate ingredients added, slowly with stirring, and the molten composition was then molded into bars.

The resulting bar was found to have good texture (smooth), good cosmetic and aesthetic properties such as ease of use, softness in application, and good moisture and odor control.

EXAMPLE 4 An antiperspirant composition containing 25% of the moisturizing cream of Example 1 and suitable for a bar applicator was formulated by adding 2.5% of calcite by weight of the total composition.

The stick composition was manufactured according to the manufacturing process disclosed in the invention and specified in example 3.

The resulting bar was found to have good texture (smooth), good cosmetic and aesthetic properties such as ease of use, softness in application and no stinging to the application, and good control of moisture and odor.

EXAMPLE 5 A bar composition identical to that described in example 2 was manufactured according to the manufacturing process disclosed in the invention and specified in example 3.

Claims

1. An antiperspirant or deodorant composition in substantially anhydrous bar comprising an antiperspirant or deodorant active, a vehicle for the active and a moisturizing cream comprising one or more humectants, which comprise at least one hydroxyl group and a perfume carrier material.

2. An antiperspirant composition according to claim 1, wherein the antiperspirant active is present in the composition at a level of 1 to 35% by weight of the total composition.

3. An antiperspirant composition according to claims 1 or 2, wherein the moisturizing cream comprises from 0.1 to 30% of the composition.

4. An antiperspirant composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the composition additionally comprises a non-volatile emollient.

An antiperspirant composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the humectant comprises sorbitol, glycerol, propylene glycol or ethylene glycol.

6. An antiperspirant composition according to claim 5, wherein the humectant is present at a level of 0.1 to 15% by weight of the total composition.

1 . - An antiperspirant composition according to any of the preceding claims, further comprising a structuring agent.

8. An antiperspirant composition according to claim 7, wherein the structurant comprises from 5 to 40% by weight of the composition of C12-C22 long chain fatty alcohols.

9. An antiperspirant composition according to any of the preceding claims, wherein the vehicle comprises from 1 to 60% by weight of the volatile silica composition.

10. An antiperspirant composition according to any of the preceding claims, additionally containing a natural or synthetic wax.

11. An antiperspirant composition according to claim 10, wherein the wax is present at a level of 1 to 10% by weight of the composition.

12. An antiperspirant composition in substantially anhydrous bar suitable for topical application in human skin, comprising: i. an effective amount of an antiperspirant active; ii. a volatile silica; iii. a structuring; iv. a moisturizing cream comprising a humectant, and v. a perfume vehicle material.

13. A process for manufacturing a substantially anhydrous bar antiperspirant comprising an antiperspirant active, a liquid carrier, a structurant and a humectant, comprising: combining the liquid carrier, the humectant and the perfume vehicle together under high shear stress; add the structurant to the mix; - heating the composition until the structurant has melted; add the antiperspirant active and all other components that are not fragrance of the composition; - cool the composition and add any fragrance; and molding the composition. A process for manufacturing a substantially anhydrous bar antiperspirant comprising an antiperspirant active, a liquid carrier, a structurant and a humectant, comprising: heating and combining together under high shear stress the liquid carrier, the humectant, the perfume vehicle and the structurant; add the antiperspirant active and all other components that are not fragrance of the composition; cool the composition and add any fragrance; and molding the composition.