MXPA99005404A - Cosmetic composition comprising at least a branched sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioning agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising at least one branched sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioning agent chosen from the group comprising non-volatile silicones, cationic or amphoteric polymers and cationic or amphiphilic surfactants. The invention also relates to a method of treating keratinous fibers such as hair, in particular a method of fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle using the said composition as well as the use of this composition in or for the manufacture of a hair. cosmetic formulation of comb

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE RAMI SULFONIC POLYESTER AND AT LEAST ONE CONDITIONING AGENT. Description of the invention: The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, comprising at least one branched sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioning agent selected from the group comprising non-volatile silicones, cationic or amphoteric limpers and cationic surfactants or aji fifi los. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, in particular to a method of fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle using said composition as well as to the use of this composition in or for manufacturing of a cosmetic styling formulation. By "keratin fibers", it is understood in the sense of the present invention, the hair, the eyelashes and the eyebrows. The fixation of the hairstyle is an important element of the hairdresser that consists in maintaining the conformation already made or in shaping the -belts and in fixing them simultaneously. The hair products for the conformation and / or the maintenance of the hairstyle more widespread in the cosmetics market are compositions for spraying essentially constituted by a solution most often alcoholic or aqueous and by one or more materials generally polymeric resins, whose function it is to form welds between the hair, also called fixing materials, in admixture with various cosmetic adjuvants. This solution is usually conditioned either in an aerosol container REF .: 30550 suitable put under pressure with the help of a propellant, or in an atomizer.

Gels or styling foams which are generally applied to wet hair before brushing or marking are also known. Unlike classic aerosol lacquers, these compositions have the disadvantage of not allowing the fixing of the hair in a form already carried out. Indeed, these compositions are essentially aqueous and their application wet the hair and can not therefore maintain the initial shape of the hairstyle. In order to shape and fix the hairstyle, it is therefore necessary to subsequently make a marking with a brush or a drying. Most of the compositions of the state of the art have the same disadvantage of not easily allowing the user to comb the hair again by giving them their initial shape again when the hairstyle has been discarded under the effect of a force. In this case, it is often necessary to re-start the set of combing and fixing operations if the initial hairstyle is to be obtained again. Thus, combing compositions are sought which allow the hairstyle to be easily reshaped when it has been undone, for example by a gust of wind or by strong agitation. There is talk of "re-combing" power, that is, of the possibility of simply reshaping a hairstyle with the least possible movement, without the help of a comb or a brush when this hairstyle has been discarded. Another drawback of the compositions of the state of the art is that they do not always allow to adequately subject all the hair, that is to say to make them all take the same shape and the same direction. Occasionally a messy hairstyle and ruffled appearance occurs. Compositions are therefore sought which provide a sufficiently strong disciplining effect for the hair to look cutely. Finally, the compositions that are intended for fixing the hairstyle sometimes have the disadvantage of altering the cosmetic properties of the hair. Thus, the hair can become rough, - difficult to disentangle, lose its pleasant touch and appearance or even lack body. Therefore combing compositions are sought which provide good cosmetic properties, particularly in terms of disentangling, softness, touch and body. In the sense of the present invention, it will be said that the hair has a "body" if it provides contact with the hand with a feeling of mass effect and slight rigidity. There is thus a need to find cosmetic compositions, particularly for styling, which do not have the set of drawbacks indicated above. Surprisingly and unexpectedly, the applicant has discovered that when branched sulphonic polyesters are combined with conditioning agents, it is possible to obtain cosmetic compositions that respond to the demands expressed above. The subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one branched sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioning agent selected from the group comprising the non-volatile liponates, the polymers cationic or amphoteric and cationic or amphiphilic surfactants. The branched sulfoic polyesters particularly considered by the present invention are those described in patent applications-o, 95/18191, 097/08261 and 097/20899. The branched sulphonic polyesters are advantageously formed by polymerization of: (i) at least one dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid which does not comprise sulfonic function; (ii) at least one dysfunctional monomer co-prescribing at least one -sulfonic function, the functional group (s) being chosen from the group comprising the hydroxyl, carboxyl and amino groups; (iii) at least one diol or a mixture of diol (s) and diamine (s); (iv) optionally a dysfunctional monomer chosen from the group comprising the carboxylic hydroxy acids, the carboxylic amino acids and their mixtures; (V) at least one multifunctional reagent carrying at least three functional groups chosen from the group comprising the amino, alcohol and carboxylic acid groups. This polymerization is advantageously carried out from: (i) at least one dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid which does not comprise sulfonic function; (ii) from 2 to 15% relative in moles of dysfunctional monomer which - comprises at least one sulfonic function; (iii) at least one diol or a mixture of diol (es) and diamine (s); (iv) from 0 to 40% relative in moles of the dysfunctional monomer chosen from the group comprising the carboxylic hydroxy acids, the --amino acid carboxylic acids and their mixtures; (v) of the?, relative 1 to 40% in moles of the multifunctional reagent comprising at least three reactive functional groups. The branched sulphonic polymers advantageously contain substantially equal proportions, in number of equivalents, on the one hand in carboxylic acid functions and, on the other hand in diol and / or dioi and diamine functions. Preferably, polymers AQ 1350, Q 1045, A 1950 or AQ 14000 marketed by the Eastman Company, and preferably polymer AQ 1350, are chosen as the branched sulphonic polymers. The dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid (i) may advantageously be - chosen from the group comprising the dicarboxylic ifatic acids, the alicyclic dicarboxylic acids, the aromatic dicarboxylic acids and a mixture of these. more particularly the dicarboxylic acid (i) may be chosen from the group comprising 1,4-cyclohexanedioic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid , 1,3-dichlo hexanediic acid, phthalic acid, terephthalic acid and isophthalic acid. The dysfunctional monomer (ii) as defined above is advantageously chosen from the group comprising the dicarboxylic acids, the dicarboxylic acid esters, the glycols and the hydroxy acids - each containing at least one sulfonate metal group. The diol (iii) is preferably chosen from the group consisting of the alkanediols and the polyalkylene diols and more particularly, this -diol (iii) is selected from the group comprising ethylene glycol, pro-pylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol. The diamine (iii) can advantageously be chosen from the group comprising the alkanediamines and the polyalkylenediamines and the multifunctional reactant (v) is preferably selected from the group comprising trimethylolpropane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol. , sorbitol, tri elitic anhydride, erythritol, treitol, dipenta erythritol, pyromellitic dianhydride and di-propylpropionic acid. The composition advantageously comprises, in relative proportion by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 40% of branched sulphonic polyester and, preferably, from 0.1 to 16% of branched sulphonic polyester, and more preferably of 0.5 to 8% branched sulphonic polyester. The composition advantageously comprises, as a relative percentage by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 16% conditioning agent and preferably from 0.05 to 4%. The branched sulphonic polyester (s) can be present in solubilized form or in the form of solid particle dispersion. An insoluble conditioning agent can advantageously be chosen from the group comprising the ppl-α-olefins, the fluorated oils, the vegetable oils, the natural waxes, the fluorinated waxes, the fluorinated gums and the fatty acid esters , the insoluble silicones, - the amide compounds comprising at least one fatty chain; the said agents being able to be present in the form of mixtures. When the conditioning agent is a cationic or an-photon polymer, it is advantageously chosen from the group consisting of: (a) cationic cellulose derivatives; (b) homopolymers and dimethyl diallylammonium halide copolymers; (c) homopolymers and copolymers of methacryloyl halide xi and ethyltrimethylammonium; (d) the polyammonium quaternary polymers; (e) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with cationic units; (f) cationic polysiloxanes. The cationic polymer is advantageously chosen from the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, the cellulose copolymers with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, the cyclopolymers, the cationic polysaccharides, the silicone cationic polymers, the vinylpyrrolidone copolymers, and the like. »Quaternized or non-quaternized dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate, the quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinU imidazole, the polyamidoamines and their mixtures. Advantageously, cationic surfactants which are insoluble in water can be chosen from the group consisting of the fatty amines and their salts as well as the quaternary ammonium salts, and the fatty acids are preferably selected from the group consisting of dioctylamine, stearyldimethyl lamin, palmityldimethylamine, oleoytyldimethylamine and amidoamines such as stearylamidoethyldiethylamine, behenylamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearylamidopropyl dimethyl lamella, oleylamidopro phenylethylamine, stearylamidoethyldimethylamine The cationic surfactant of the quaternary ammonium salt type is advantageously chosen from those having the following general formula (I) (I) in which R. a R-, identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical, aleo xi, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl comprising from 12 to 22 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates or alkyl sulfates, or the quaternary ammonium salts of the 1-idazolinium, of formula (II) below: * "" wherein R5 represents a mixture of alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 21 carbon atoms and derivatives of tallow fatty acids, or the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III): in which Rβ designates: an aliphatic radical comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms, R7, Rg, Rg, R1Q, and R ,,,, SQ? chosen from the -hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, - phosphates, and sulphates. The composition advantageously additionally comprises customary cosmetic additives such as plasticizers or neutralizers and it is presented as a vaporizable, foam, gel or lotion composition.

The composition preferably also comprises a solvent selected from water, an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic mixture as well as a suitable amount of propellant advantageously constituted by the usual compressed or liquefied gases, preferably air, carbon dioxide or nitrogen tablets, or even a soluble gas or not in the composition such as dimethyl ether, fluorinated or non-fluorinated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof. Another object of the invention is an aerosol device constituted by a container containing an aerosol composition constituted on the one hand, a liquid phase (or juice) containing a composition according to the invention, in a suitable solvent and a propellant, as well as a medium • - • or distribution of the indicated aerosol composition.

Also an object of the invention is a method of treating keratinous fibers, in particular of the hair, comprising the application on said fibers of the composition according to the invention, before or after the shaping of the hairstyle. Still another object of the invention relates to the use of a composition defined above in or for the manufacture of a cosmetic styling formulation. The examples given below illustrate the present invention without limiting the scope. The polymers indicated below are used AQ 1350, AQ 1045, AQ 1950 and Sulfonic Polyesters ramifiAQ 14000 each marketed by Eastman DC 190 Polydimethyl methylsiloxane oxyethylenated and oxypropylenated by Dow Corning DC 939 Cationic silicone marketed by Dow Corning Example 1 The yields obtained were compared with compositions according to the invention and with a composition according to the prior art - which does not contain conditioning agent. The comparative performances are the disentangling, the body, the softness, the touch, the hairstyle and the retouching.

Composition 1 (invention) AQ 1350 4 g DOW CORNING 190 SÜRFACTANT 0.4 g (Active material) Water cs 100 g Composition 2 (invention): AQ 1350 4 g DC 939 0.4 g Water cs 100 g Composition 3 (previous technique) AQ 1350 4 g Water cs 100 g For this test, manageable heads are available. The compositions were applied by half a head, ie by the right or left side of the hair separated by a line in the middle. 3 grams of product were deposited per half head, the hair of which was previously washed with shampoo and then drained. The manageable heads experienced a brush marking, they were combed at 21 ° C and 30% relative humidity and left for 10 minutes at rest in these same conditions of temperature and humidity. The yields obtained were measured by means of a sensory test. Yields were scored between 0 (bad) and 5 (excellent). They are indicated in table 1 given below.

Table 1 It is observed that the yields obtained by the compositions 1 and 2 are clearly better than those obtained with the composition 3. In particular, the effect of retouching is clearly improved as well as the body of the hairstyle. Example 2: Three compositions according to the invention were made.

Composition 5 (invention) AQ 1045 1.2 gk DOW CORNING 190 SURFACTANT 0.2 g (Active material) Water cs 100 g Composition 6 (invention) AQ 1950 8, 3 g DC 939 1 g Water cs 100 g Composition 7 (invention ) AQ 1Ú000 10 g DC 939 1 g Water cs 100 g The three compositions 5, 6 and 7 were applied on sensitive hair (bleached), allowed to dry and the hair was brushed. It was observed that they provide an important smoothing effect and that the hairs are particularly bright and easy to untangle. It is noted that in relation to this date, the best method known to the applicant to carry out the aforementioned invention, is that which is clear from the present description of the invention.

Claims (28)

1. REVINDIC ACTIONS Having described the invention as above, the content of the following claims is claimed as property: 1.- Cosmetic composition for keratin fibers such as hair, characterized in that it comprises, in a mystically acceptable medium, at least one branched sulphonic polyester and at least one conditioning agent selected from the group comprising non-volatile silicones, cationic or amphoteric polymers and cationic or amphiphilic surfactants.
2. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the branched sulphonic polyester is formed by polymerization of: (i) at least one dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid that does not comprise sulfonic function; • "(ii) at least one dysfunctional monomer comprising at least one sulfonic function, the functional group (s) being chosen from the group comprising the hydroxyl, carboxyl and amino groups: (iii) at least one diol or a mixture of diol (s) and of diamine (s); (iv) Possibly a dysfunctional monomer selected from the group comprising carboxylic hydroxy acids, carboxylic amino acids and mixtures thereof, (v) at least one multifunctional reagent carrying at least three groups functional groups chosen from the group comprising the amino, alcohol and carboxylic acid groups
3. 3. Composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the polymerization is carried out from (i) at least one dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid which does not comprise sulfonic function; (ii) from 2 to 15% relative to moles of dysfunctional monomer which - carries at least one sulfonic function; (iii) at least one diol or a mixture of diol (s) and diamine (s) - (iv) 0 to 40 relative mol% of difunctional monomer ele_ Gido from the group comprising hydroxycarboxylic acids, aminocarboxylic acids and mixtures thereof; (v) from 0.1 to 40% relative in moles of the multifunctional reagent carrying at least three reactive functional groups.
4. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 2 or 3, characterized in that the polymer contains proportions - substantially equal, in number of equivalents, on the one hand in carboxylic acid functions and, on the other hand in diol functions and / or diol and diamine.
5. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid which does not comprise sulfonic function (i) is chosen from the group comprising the aliphatic dicarboxylic acids, the alicyclic acids boxyl, the aromatic dicarboxylic acids and a mixture of these.
6. 6. Composition according to claim 5, characterized in that the dysfunctional dicarboxylic acid that does not comprise sulfonic function (i) is chosen from the group comprising 1,4,4-cyclohexane diodic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, the adipic acid, the azelaic acid, the sebacic acid, the fumaric acid, the maleic acid, the 1,3-cyclohexanedioic acid, the phthalic acid, the terephthalic acid and the isophthalic acid and their mixtures.
7. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the dysfunctional monomer (ii) which comprises at least one sulfonic function is chosen from the group comprising - dicarboxylic acids, acid esters dicarboxylic acid, glycols and hydroxy acids each containing at least one metal sulfonate group.
8. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the diol (iii) is chosen from the group comprising the alkanediols and the polyalkylene diols.
9. 9. Composition according to claim 8, characterized in that the diol (iii) is chosen from the group comprising ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol and polypropylene glycol.
10. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized in that the diamine (iii) is chosen from the group comprising the alkanediamines and the polyalkylene diamines.
11. 11. Composition according to any one of claims 2 to 4, characterized by the fact that the ultifunctional reagent (v) is selected from the group comprising trimethylolethane, trimethylolpropane, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trime thymic anhydride, erythritol, treitol, dipentaeritri.tol, pyromellitic dianhydride and dimethylpropionic acid.
12. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, as a relative percentage by weight of the composition, from 0.01 to 40% sulphonic-metered polyester and preferably from 0.1 to 16% of branched sulphonic polyester, and more preferably still from 0.5 to 8% of branched sulphonic polyester.
13. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises, as a relative percentage by weight of the composition, 0.01 to 16% conditioning agent and preferably 0%. 05 to 4%.
14. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sulphonic polyester or polyesters are presented in solubilized form or in the form of dispersion of solid particles.
15. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the conditioning agent is insoluble and is chosen from the group comprising the poly-α-olefins, the fluorinated oils, the vegetable oils, the natural waxes, fluorinated cements, fluorinated gums and fatty acid esters, insoluble silicones, amide compounds comprising at least one fatty chain; the said agents being able to be present in the form of mixtures.
16. 16. Composition according to claim 1, characterized by the fact that the cationic or amphoteric polymer chosen from the group consisting of: (a) cationic cellulose derivatives; (b) the homopolymers and the copolymers of dimethyl to diallylammonium halide; (c) homopolymers and. methacryloyloxy halide and ethyltrimethylammonium halide copolymers; (d) the polyammonium quaternary polymers; (e) vinylpyrrolidone copolymers with cationic units; (f) cationic polysiloxanes.
17. 17. Composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the cationic polymer is chosen from the quaternary cellulose ether derivatives, the cellulose copolymers with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, the cyclopolymers, the cationic polysaccharides, the siliconized cationic polymers, quaternized or not quaternized vinylpyrroli-do-acrylate or dialkylaminoalkylmethacrylate copolymers, quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole, polyamido amines and mixtures thereof.
18. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cationic surfactants are insoluble in water and are chosen from the group consisting of the fatty amines and their salts as well as the quaternary ammonium salts.
19. 19. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the fatty amines are chosen from the group comprising dioctylamine, stearyldimethylamine, palityl-dimethylamine, oleo-ctiMipetLlatpna and sherdspipes such as stearilamdaerimethyl ether. , the behenylamidopropyl dimethylamine, the stearylamidopropyl dimethyl amine, the oleylamido propylimethyl lamellate, the stearylamidoethyldimethylamine.
20. 20. Composition according to claim 18, characterized in that said cationic quaternary ammonium salt type surfactant is chosen from those having the following general formula (I): wherein R. to R ", identical or different, represent an aliphatic radical comprising from 1 to 22 carbon atoms, or an aromatic, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene, alkylamide, hydroxyalkyl, aryl or alkylaryl radical comprising from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates or alkylsulfates, or the quaternary ammonium salts of the imidazolinium, of formula (II) below: wherein R5 represents a mixture of alkenyl and / or alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 21 carbon atoms and derived from the fatty acids of tallow, or the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III): wherein Rg designates an aliphatic radical comprising from 16 to 22 carbon atoms, R7, Rg, Rg, R1Q, and R ^ are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, and sulfates.
21. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises usual cosmetic additives such as plasticizers or neutralizers.
22. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is presented in the form of vaporizable composition, foam, gel or lotion.
23. 23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a solvent -selected between water, an alcohol or a hydroalcoholic mixture.
24. 24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also comprises an adequate amount of propellant.
25. 25. Composition according to claim 24, characterized in that the propellant is constituted by the usual compressed or liquefied gases, preferably air, compressed carbon dioxide or nitrogen, or also a gas soluble or not in the composition such as dimethyl ether, -fluorinated or non-fluorinated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof.
26. 26.- Aerosol device constituted by a container that contains an aerosol composition constituted by a part a liquid phase (or jju go) that contains a composition according to any one of the claims; 1 to 21 in a suitable solvent and a propellant, as well as a means of distributing said aerosol composition.
27. 27. Method of treatment of keratin fibers, in particular of the hair, characterized in that the composition as defined in claims 1 to 25 is applied to said fibers, before or after the shaping of the hairstyle.
28. 28. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 25 in or for the manufacture of a cosmetic styling formulation. - - - ~, SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The subject of the invention is a cosmetic composition for keratin fibers, such as hair, comprising at least one branched sulfo-ester polyester and at least one conditioning agent selected from the group comprising non-volatile silicones, polymers. cationic or amphoteric and the cationic or amphiphilic surfactants. The invention also relates to a process for treating keratinous fibers such as hair, in particular a method of fixing and / or maintaining the hairstyle using said composition as well as the use of this composition in or for the manufacture of hair. a cosmetic styling formulation.