MXPA99002004A - Alkaline conditioning compositions for hair containing guar cation - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to compositions for the relaxation and softening of keratinous fibers, particularly of human hair. The compositions of the present invention have a high pH, that is, a pH greater than 10, preferably in the range of about 1 to about 14, more preferably from about 12 to about 13.5, and include a cationic guar as a conditioning additive. Surprisingly, the canonical guar maintains stability, viscosity and activity over time, at a highly alkaline pH of the inventive conditioning and softening or softening conditions of the present invention. The softening or softening compositions of the present invention provide beneficial effects to the user, such as softness and ease of wet brushing, and cause less damage to the hair after its application and use. In addition, the relaxer or conditioner softener compositions of the present invention remain on the hair and provide long-lasting conditioning and relaxation or softness effects after one or more shampoos.

Description

ALKALINE CONDITIONING COMPOSITIONS FOR HAIR CONTAINING GUAR CATIONICO FIELD OF THE INVENTION The present invention relates in general to compositions and hair products, which have a high pH and provide a hair conditioning effect. More particularly, the invention relates to hair softening compositions which are alkaline and contain cationic guar and provide ease in wet brushing even after the hair is washed with shampoo. The present invention also encompasses other hair products, such as permanent waves or formulations for curling, which have a high pH and which contain cationic guar as a conditioning agent.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION Softeners or hair relaxers are mainly used to loosen and untangle it, it is REF .: 29402 to say, "soften", curly, frizzy and curly or very curly hair. Reagents or softeners are typically cream products having a high pH (ie, 12.0 to 14.0) and contain as components, strong alkalizing additives, such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide or calcium hydroxide, to disentangle the strands hair related. The action of these alkaline additive components results in the expansion of the hair to allow the penetration of the additives into the c.artex of the hair to break the chemical bonds and re-form the bonds in a new configuration, thereby softening the curling and / or rolled hair strands. If the softening or relaxing hair product is combed through the hair during the softening or relaxing procedures, a less curly and more disentangling effect is obtained. Similarly, other alkaline-based hair care products, such as waves and / or curling formulations, which are also chemical bonds reformed in the hair, to alter hair structure, are commonly used by consumers to change the appearance of hair A disadvantage related to the use of such highly alkaline products is that they can be harsh on the hair; The hair may begin to be damaged, dry, have a feeling of breakage and difficulty combing after applying the softening or relieving products. Accordingly, compositions and hair products which serve to condition hair and have the ability to provide lasting effects, without being severe, after use of the product and after shampooing are necessary in the art. More particularly, the relaxing or softening compositions of the hair are also necessary either to untangle and condition the hair, without causing extreme dryness and damaging it. It is a goal in the art to develop hair relaxing or softening compositions comprising one or more relaxing and conditioning components wherein the compositions cause less damage to the hair and do not make it dry and unmanageable. Relaxers or softeners are also necessary, which facilitate combing and contain ingredients which are stable and have long lasting effects for the user, even after washing with shampoo. In addition, other compositions and treatments for the hair, such as wavy and / or curling formulations, need not only to mold their expected functions in the hair, but also to condition and soften the hair after use, thereby doing so. treated hair more manageable and causing less damage to treated hair strands. These and other beneficial results are made by the present invention using cationic guars or guars (also herein described and referred to synonymously as guar-derived cationic gum or acacia seed gum) to produce novel and mild hair compositions having a High alkaline pH and significant conditioning properties. European Patent Application No. 702949 describes a cationic guar gum modified as the sole thickening agent in compositions for hair dyes, but does not disclose or show the cationic guar in the softening or softening compositions for the hair having an alkaline pH and providing a new and lasting brushing and conditioning effect. They are described in Japanese Patent No. 5345708, U.S. Patent No. 4,557,928 and in US Patent No. 4,387,090, the cationic guars as additives, in particular, conditioning compositions for use as thickeners, but not as conditioners in alkaline relaxer or hair softening compositions. As will be appreciated by those skilled in the art, commercially available cationic guars (eg, Cosmedia, Jaguar®) are generally known to be stable in formulations having a low pH at moderately alkaline pH. In particular, Rhone-poulenc specifies in its literature products that are quaternized hydroxypropyl guars or guars, sold under the tradename JAGUAR®, which should be used in formulations that have a pH in the range of 4 to 10 for stability and optimal clarity. Because the guar product of the literature discloses that guars or guares are unstable at a high pH, and also lose viscosity, a person skilled in the art can not be motivated, based on such a product of the literature, to use such gums of guar as additives in compositions having high pH. Accordingly, the use and formulation of the cationic guars or cations in the highly alkaline hair relaxer or softening / conditioning compositions of the present invention are opposed to the art samples and the knowledge of the practicing artisan. In contrast to the prior art samples, the compositions of the present invention, which contain a cationic guar additive at a high pH, surprisingly provide a significant level of stability, viscosity and cationic guar activity over time.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION It is an object of the present invention to provide compositions for the treatment of keratinous fibers, particularly of human hair, wherein the compositions provide their specific properties for the hair and also co-conditioners to the hair with less damage to the hair after use. . In accordance with the present invention, the hair treatment compositions are formulated at high pH (ie, at a pH greater than 10), contain one or more cationic guars and comprise, for example, formulations for curling and / or wavy at high pH and relaxers or softeners for the hair. It is a further object of the present invention to provide highly alkaline conditioning / softening or hair softening compositions containing one or more cationic guar additives, wherein the guar is surprisingly stable, viscous and active as a conditioner for hair, a despite the high pH environment of the composition. In accordance with the present invention, highly alkaline hair relaxer or softener compositions containing cationic guar provide relaxation or softness effects, conditioning and softeners for hair, as well as ease of wet combing, even after shampooing. . Still another object of the present invention is to formulate a cationic guar as a conditioning additive in a hair treatment or a hair care product to brush and condition the hair to achieve extensive benefits in wet brushing and conditioning to improve ease in hair brushing compared to products that do not contain guar. In accordance with the present invention, there is provided a high pH hair system or product that contains one or more cationic conditioning moieties that leave the hair soft and manageable and allow easy brushing with less damage to the hair from entanglement, tangles, knots and the like. The compositions of the present invention are particularly suitable for formulation as relaxers or hair softeners and hair curling or curling products, for example, to produce permanent or semi-permanent wavy or curly hair. It is still another object of the present invention to provide products for the treatment or care of hair in the form of emulsions or creams, wherein the products are formulations and compositions which are highly alkaline and contain a conditioning amount for the hair of one or more guars or cationic guanes. In accordance with the invention, the conditioning conditioner will remain stable, viscous and active in the hair product. The products of the present invention have a very long life, thereby providing beneficial costs and advantages to the consumer. It will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the compositions of the present invention can be used in conventional permanent corrugations or in applications for curling, wherein the advantages provided by the cationic component in the softening or softening formulations will be similarly apparent in these other Applications. The additional objects and advantages provided by the invention will be apparent from the description herein detailed below.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION.

The present invention provides aqueous compositions for the treatment and care of hair and products comprising a cationic guar (for example guar of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, CTFA nomenclature) as a conditioning additive. As relaxers or hair softeners, the compositions of the present invention allow particularly to achieve relaxation or softening of the hair strands coupled with increased wet brushing effects. The use of the cationic guar in the hair compositions of the present invention provides improved hair care products, which relax or soften it as well as condition and soften it. The hair conditioning compositions containing the cationic guar of the present invention are water based, highly alkaline, that is, having a pH greater than 10, preferably, in the range of about 11 to about 14, more preferably, about 12. at about 13.5, more preferably, from about 12.5 to about 13.5. It should be noted that, as used herein, the terms "highly alkaline" and "high pH" are considered synonymous. Prior to the present invention, the Guar gum solutions are reported to be stable at a pH of between about 4 and 10. However, the high pH is known and reported by decreasing the viscosity of the cationic guars or guars.However, the present compositions, which contain one or more cationic guars or guares, surprisingly retain and provide a conditioning action, and are stable and operative over time in an environmentally friendly environment. At a high pH of the present composition, even through the typical pH range for the stability and viscosity of the guar solution are significantly lower than the pH of the compositions of the present invention. Cationic guar-containing compositions, in accordance with the present invention, are provided to the consumer with a benefit in brushing and softness to the hair, while mitigating potential hair damage. In one embodiment of the present invention, the cationic guar additive has now been discovered by the present inventor to reduce or eliminate the deleterious effects of the soothing or softening components of the highly alkaline hair relaxer or softener compositions of the present invention. In addition, the hair that is treated with the hair relaxant or softener composition according to the present invention exhibits easy wet brushing after shampooing and rinsing the hair relaxers or conditioners. Likewise, the compositions of the present invention, such as a lasting effect, are not observed using the softening or softening compositions that do not contain one or more guar additives of this invention.

In contrast to the hair relaxers or softeners of the embodiment described above of the present invention, other active conditioning agents fail to produce the desired conditioning effects, smoothness and ease in brushing after the hair has been washed with shampoo. The other conditioning agents containing amine functional groups are formulated in hair relaxant or softener compositions at high pH, instead of guars or cationic guates. Such unsuitable agents include, for example, polyolamine dimethicone-Silamine C-300 from Siltech Inc; polyuaternium copolymer 22 of ammonium dimethylalkyl chloride and acrylic acid -Merquat 280 (Calgon); policuaternium 7, a polymeric quaternary salt consisting of acrylamide and dimethyldialkyl ammonium monomer - Merquat 2200 (Calgon); policuaternium 39, a polymeric quaternary ammonium salt of acrylic acid, dimethyl dialkyl ammonium chloride and acrylamine Merquat Plus 3300 (Calgon); Amodimethicone, sebaceous trimonium chloride, Nonoxynol-10, Silicone 929 (Dow Corning); trimethylsilamodimethicone -Silicone Q2-8220 (Dow Corning); soy trimonium chloride and isopropanol - Arquad S-50 (A zo); amodimeticonol, trideceth-12, cetrimonium chloride -2-8739 Microemulsion (Dow Corning); and polyethyleneimine copolymer - water-free Lupasol G-20 (BASF).

In another embodiment of the present invention, the cationic guar additive has now been discovered by the present inventor for providing conditioning effects and for reducing or eliminating the damaging effects of other highly alkaline hair products, including those containing components for the hair. Wavy or for the curling of the hair. Furthermore, the hair is treated with a composition for curling or curling the hair with a high pH, in accordance with the present invention, they retain a facility in wet brushing after washing with shampoo and rinsing the waving or curling formulation. hair related. Such a lasting effect is not observed using the undulant hair compositions that do not contain the guar additive, in contrast to the compositions of the present invention. The benefits and improved effects of consumer compositions, in accordance with the present invention, compared with commercially available hair relaxer or softener products, have been demonstrated in either laboratory-evaluated hair samples or beauty salons. The addition of the cationic guar in the softening or softening formulation of the present invention allows the relaxation or softening effect without discomfort and provides a conditioning feeling to the hair after the procedure has been completed. The conditioning effect of the compositions of the present invention is still apparent with the aged compositions (eg, three months) of the present invention, in addition the unexpected chemical stability of the cationic guar additive in combination with the other components is indicated, for example , the relaxing or softening components or undulating components of the hair conditioning products of the present invention. Stability tests have shown that the high pH compositions of the present invention, which are formulated or include one or more cationic guars or guara that remain stable for about three months at 50 ° C, which is approximately equivalent to a life about two years at room temperature. In accordance with the present invention, the stability of the cationic guar indicates that the cationic guar retains these conditioning effects and remains operative over time in the compositions. In general, the guar component of the compositions according to the present invention is a cationic derivative of guar gum or acacia seed gum. Such gums are polygalactomannan containing two units of mannose with a glycoside bond and a galactose unit attached to one of the hydroxyl groups of the mannose units. The hydroxyl groups are made to react with certain reactive quaternary ammonium compounds to obtain the cationic derivative. Suitable quaternary ammonium compounds for preparing the cationic gum derivatives of the present invention have the structure wherein Ri, R2 and R3 are alkyl, aryl and substituted alkyl and aryl groups; R4 is selected from the group consisting of epoxyalkyl and halohydrin, and Z is an anion, for example, Cl ", Br ~, I", and HS04. "Suitable epoxyalkyl groups have the structure: Suitable halohydrins have the structure: wherein R5 is a divalent alkylene of 1 to 3 carbons, and X is halogen. Particularly preferred is the 3- (trimethylamino) -2- 'idroxy_pro_pi 1 guar chloride compound which has the structure: < CH3) 3C1 ' wherein R is the guar-based polygalactomannan molecule, and is sold as Cosmedia Guar 216N by Henkel Corporation. Particularly preferred for use in the compositions of the present invention are the quaternary ammonium derivatives of the hydroxypropyl guar, such as the guar of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride, which is exemplified by the JAGUAR® products commercially available from Rhone-Poulenc. In accordance with the present invention, the hair treatment and conditioning compositions as described, contain one or more of the cationic gum derivatives described above in a hair conditioning stable amount. More particularly, cationic gum derivatives are presented in the compositions of the present invention in an amount of from about 0.10% to about 5.0%, preferably, from about 0.3% to about 2.0%, more preferably, from about 0.50% to about 1.0% in weight, based on the total weight of the composition. It will be appreciated that the high amounts of guar, determined by routine testing, can be used. It should also be understood that unless otherwise specified herein, all components of the compositions of the present invention are present in% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The compositions of the present invention are generally formulated as emulsions, for example, creams. Gels can also be formulated. Water is generally present in the compositions in amounts such as those typically employed in compositions of this type; commonly, such amounts are approximately 40% to 60%, and frequently, approximately 45% to 50%. Also formulated in the conditioner and soothing or softening compositions of the present invention are one or more ferrous alkali metal hydroxides, which relax or soften the hair strands. Examples of suitable ferrous alkali metal hydroxides include, but are not limited to, sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, barium hydroxide, strontium hydroxide and mixtures thereof. Sodium hydroxide is preferred. Those of skill in the art will appreciate that if calcium hydroxide is used as a relaxant or softener compound, an activator, such as guanidine carbonate, is preferably used as well as others typically known and used in the art. The alkaline earth metal hydroxide is present in the compositions of the present invention from about 1.5% to about 2.5% preferably, from about 1.9% to about 2.5%. Secondary or auxiliary conditioning agents in addition to the cationic guar can be formulated into the compositions of the present invention in amounts conventionally used for these reagents. Such auxiliary conditioning agents include those reagents or products which are typically employed in such compositions, non-limiting examples, which include, but are not limited to, quaternary ammonium compounds, amines, ethyl sulfates and other cationic polymers.

Among the quaternary ammonium compounds suitable for use are the quaternary ammonium hydroxides, such as the ammonium hydroxide of methyltriethanol and the ammonium hydroxide tetraethyl. Preferred auxiliary conditioning agents include polyquaternium 10 or benhentrimonium methosulfate. In general, auxiliary conditioning agents, when used, are present in amounts of from about 0.1% to about 3.0%, preferably, from about 0.5% to about 2.0%. The compositions of the present invention may also contain optional ingredients which improve the elegance of the final products, as discussed below. In general, these additional components, and other suitable additives, as desired, provide the cosmetically acceptable vehicles for the compositions of the invention and are present at levels which are effective in providing the expected functions of the components. They are generally used, one or more emollients and humectants in compositions of this type in amounts typically used in such compositions. Examples of emollients suitable for use in accordance with the present invention include, but are not limited to, mineral oil and petrolatum. Other emollients may include cetyl or stearyl alcohol, paraffin or lanolin alcohol. Emollients are generally employed in the compositions of the present invention from about 5% to about 45%, preferably, from about 7.5% to about 40%, by weight. Examples of suitable humectants include, but are not limited to, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerin and sorbitol. As a general guide, humectants can be present in such compositions in amounts of from about 1% to about 20%, preferably, from about 4% to about 10%. One or more emulsifying agents are also generally present in the compositions of this invention in amounts typically employed in such compositions. Emulsifiers commonly provide dispersion and suspension to the components, and provide a creamy and lubricating consistency to the composition. Non-limiting examples of suitable emulsifying agents to be used include alkoxylated alcohols and fatty alcohols, such as stearyl, cetyl and cetearyl alcohols, ethoxylated sorbitan esters, ethoxylated lanolin and derivatives thereof. As a guide, the emulsifiers may be used in amounts of from about 1% to about 16%, preferably, from about 2% to about 12%, more preferably, from about 8% to about 10%. The obscuring agents are conventionally used in cream compositions. Suitable obscuring agents are higher alcohols, such as stearyl alcohol and cetyl, and higher acids, such as behenic acid. Sodium chloride and sodium sulfate can be used as darkening aids, when used in concentrations that do not cause gel formation. Fatty alkali metal fatty acid soaps, such as calcium stearate and magnesium stearate are also suitable. Magnesium silicates are also used for this purpose. The obscuring agents are typically present in an amount of from about 0.1% to about 10%, preferably, from about 0.5% to about 5%. Thickening agents increase the viscosity of a product related to the hair. Suitable materials are natural gums such as tragacanth, xanthan, acacia and acacia seed; and synthetic gums such as hydroxypropylmethylcellulose and methyl cellulose. Polyvinyl alcohols can also be used. The "super" amide alkanolamides and the glycerol or glycerol stearates can also be used. The thickening agents are present in an amount that provides the desired viscosity. Typical amounts employed are from about 0.1% to about 10%, from about 0.1% to about 10%. The final viscosity of the product should be such that it can be applied to the hair and easily distributed there from one end to the other without being sprayed. Other additional additives may include antioxidants such as sodium sulfite; suspending agents; fragrances and herbs; sun filters; and pH control agents, such as citric acid, each of which is present in an amount, usually less than 5%, effective in providing this expected function. An anti-dandruff component, for example, e? Selenium sulfide can also be included at an effective level. The softening or softening compositions are typically heavy heavy creams which, in application, can be easily distributed through the hair without dripping. Accordingly, such compositions usually contain high levels of mineral oil and petrolatum with appropriate emulsifiers. The high oil content of these compositions provides a protective barrier layer on the skin, which serves to minimize irritation of the scalp from the alkalizing component.

EXAMPLES The following examples, as set forth herein, are suggested to illustrate and exemplify the various aspects of the embodiment of the present invention and are not intended to limit the invention.

EXAMPLE 1 A highly alkaline, hair conditioning and relaxer composition for hair, formulated in accordance with the present invention, is presented in this example. The final pH of the composition was 13.5 INGREDIENTS Mineral oil 21.00 Petrolatum 15.00 Cetearyl alcohol / 5.00 phosphate ester Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Ceteareth alcohols 3.00 Cationic guar 0.50 Sodium hydroxide 2.00 Water is. 100.00 EXAMPLE 2 Another example of a highly alkaline hair conditioning and relaxer composition for hair, in accordance with the present invention is presented in this example. The final pH of the composition was 13.5 INGREDIENTS Petrolato 23.00 Mineral oil 15.00 Cetearyl alcohol 5.00 Lanolin derivative 2.25 Sorbitan monostearate 2.64 ethoxylate Guar cationic 0.50 Propylene glycol 5.00 Sodium hydroxide 2.00 Water c. s. 100.0 EXAMPLE 3 Another example of a conditioning and relaxing or softening composition for highly alkaline hair, in accordance with the present invention is presented in this example. The final pH of the composition was 12.5 INGREDIENTS Mineral oil 6.00 Petrolatum 16.50 Cetearyl alcohol 8.00 Propylene glycol 5.00 Clacio hydroxide 5.00 Cationic guar 0.50 Water c. s. 100.00 EXAMPLE 4 Another example of a conditioning and relaxing or softening composition for highly alkaline hair, in accordance with the present invention is presented in this example. The final pH of the composition was 12.5 INGREDIENTS Mineral oil 7.00 Petrolatum 23.00 Silicon fluid 0.10 Ethoxylated lanolin / Laneth-16 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 5.00 Cationic guar 0.75 Calcium hydroxide 5.00 Propylene glycol 5.00 Water c. s. 100.00 EXAMPLE 5 Another example of a conditioning and relaxing or softening composition for highly alkaline hair, in accordance with the present invention is presented in this example. The final pH of the composition was 12.9 INGREDIENTS Petrolatum 23.00 Mineral oil 14.00 Ethoxylated lanolin / Laneth 16 3.00 Cetearyl alcohol 5.50 Lithium hydroxide 2.00 Propylene glycol 5.00 Cationic guar 2.00 Water c. s 100.00 EXAMPLE 6 Another conditioning and relaxing or softening composition for highly alkaline hair, formulated in accordance with the present invention is shown in this example. The final pH of the composition was 13.5 INGREDIENTS Mineral oil 21.00 Petrolate 15.00 Cetearyl alcohol / Cetearyl 5.00 phosphate Stearyl alcohol 2.00 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Steareth-2 0.50 Steareth-10 2.50 Stearic acid 0.10 Cationic guar 0.50 Behentrimonium methosulfate and cetearylphosphate 1.00 Propylene glycol 3.00 Sodium hydroxide 2.40 Water c. s. 100.00 EXAMPLE 7 Another conditioning and relaxing composition for highly alkaline hair, formulated in accordance with the present invention is shown in this example. The final pH of the composition was 12.5 INGREDIENTS Mineral oil 7.00 Petrolatum 23.00 Silicone fluid 0.10 Lanolin ethoxylated / Laneth 16 1.50 Cetearyl alcohol 5.00 Cationic guar 0.75 Polyquaternium 10 0.50 Calcium hydroxide 5.00 Propylene glycol 5.00 Water c. s. 100.00 The contents of all patents, patent applications and published articles, books, manual references and cited abstracts are hereby incorporated by reference in their entirety to more fully describe the state of the art to which the invention pertains. Since various changes can be made to the subject described above, without departing from the scope and spirit of the invention, it is intended that all of the subjects contained in the foregoing description or defined in the appended claims may be construed as descriptive and illustrative of the invention. Many modifications and variations of the present invention are possible in view of the above samples. It is therefore understood that, within the scope of the appended claims, the invention may be practiced in a manner other than that specifically described.

Claims (20)

1. An alkaline softening or softening composition for the hair, having a pH higher than 10, characterized in that the improvement comprises said composition containing a conditioning amount for the hair of one or more cationic waters.

2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the pH of the composition is from about 11 to about 14.

3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that the pH of the composition is from about 12.5 to 13.5

4. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic guar is a polygalactomannan comprising mannose and galactose having at least one quaternary ammonium compound that is reacted with them.

5. The composition according to claim 4, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound has the structure: wherein R__, R2 and R3 are alkyl, aryl and substituted alkyl and aryl groups; R 4 is selected from the group consisting of epoxyalkyl and halohydrin, and Z is an anion.

6. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic guar is a quaternary ammonium derivative of the hydroxypropyl guar.

7. The composition according to claim 6, characterized in that the cationic guar is the guar of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride. "

8. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the cationic guar is present in the composition from about 0.5% to about 5.0%, by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

9. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the softening or softening component is an alkaline earth metal hydroxide selected from the group consisting of sodium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, barium hydroxide , strontium hydroxide and mixtures thereof.

10. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it also comprises an auxiliary conditioning agent.

11. The composition according to claim 10, characterized in that the auxiliary conditioning agent is selected from the group consisting of quaternary ammonium compounds, amines, ethyl sulfates and cationic polymers.

12. The composition according to claim 11, characterized in that the auxiliary conditioning agent is polyquaternjLum 10 or benhentrimonium methanesulfate.

13. A hair conditioning composition characterized in that it comprises a cationic guar in an amount effective to impart a conditioning effect to hair and a cosmetically acceptable vehicle thereof, said composition having a pH greater than 10.

14. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the pH is from about 11 to about 14.

15. The composition according to claim 14, characterized in that the pH of the composition is from about 12.5 to 13.5.

16. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the cationic guar is a polygalactomannan comprising mannose and galactose having at least one quaternary ammonium compound that is reacted with them.

17. The composition according to claim 16, characterized in that the quaternary ammonium compound has the structure. wherein Ri, R2 and R3 are alkyl, aryl and substituted alkyl and aryl groups; R 4 is selected from the group consisting of epoxyalkyl and halohydrin, and Z is an anion.

18. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the cationic guar is a quaternary ammonium derivative of hydroxypropyl guar.

19. The composition according to claim 18, characterized in that the cationic guar is the guar of hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride.

20. The composition according to claim 13, characterized in that the cationic guar is present in the composition from about 0.5% to about 5.0% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION The invention provides compositions for the relaxation and softening of keratinous fibers, particularly of human hair. The compositions of the present invention have a high pH, ie, a pH greater than 10, preferably in the range of about 11 to about 14, more preferably from about 12 to about 13.5; and include a cationic guar as a conditioning additive. Surprisingly, the cationic guar maintains stability, viscosity and activity over time, at a highly alkaline pH of the inventive conditioning and softening or softening conditions of the present invention. The softening or softening compositions of the present invention provide beneficial effects to the user, such as softness and ease of wet brushing, and cause less damage to the hair after its application and use. In addition, the conditioning softening or conditioning compositions of the present invention remain on the hair and provide long-lasting conditioning and relaxation or softness effects after one or more shampoos.