MXPA96001394A - Apparatus and method for manufacturing overhead dresses - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention is a system and a method for tailor-made tailoring and manufacturing of dresses (dresses is used herein to designate all types of clothing) on measure (ie manufactured according to instructions) using numerous dresses (10) different dimensions, predetermined to manufacture a finished product. A system (40) is attached to keep track of the number of test dresses (10) and each of its dimensions, when a buyer tests the clothes in one of these test dresses, a device is attached (40b, 40c) ) associated with the system (40) to collect the buyer's responses about sitting well or badly of the dress. If a test gown (19) does not feel good, the system (40) suggests the following to be tested, according to previously defined rules. When a particular tested dress for consumer purchase becomes well-known, it is reported to a manufacturing system (70), wherein a piece of clothing corresponding to the dimensions of the approved test dress is cut, sewn, treated and shipped as a dress ends

Description

APPARATUS AND METHOD FOR MANUFACTURING DRESSES ON MEASURE.

Technical field This invention relates in general to the custom-made manufacture of dresses (ie, all types of clothing) cut into shapes and more particularly to apparatus and a method for manufacturing tailoring dresses made according to instructions using multiple test dresses and a system.

Previous art.

For years, a basic problem in the manufacture of cut dresses formed in a cost-effective manufacturing system has been to determine how to capture dimensions of a person's body so that a piece of clothing can be constructed so that it feels good to that person. person and without undue cost to the manufacturer, retailer or consumer. An apparatus designed for three-dimensional objects such as a human body can be complex in its manufacture, since changes in a dimension, such as height or waist in the case of pants, may require changes in the dimensions of the hips with In order to ensure a shaped cut that feels good. Many consumers, particularly women, have trouble finding a large-scale or ready-made dress such as denim pants that suit their satisfaction. One cause of this is that "- the traditional size system for women used by large-scale manufacturers is essentially a one-dimensional dress developed in 1941. Based on statistical averages, this size system results in represented sizes. as an abstract dimension such as size 6 or size 8. Minor variations of this have been added over time to allow small or large sizes, still with an abstract dimension and within subclasses of small sizes such as size 6 small or size 6 long or short The sizes in men's dresses such as pants, shirts and suits are not very different, although shirt sizes can be distinguished by the dimensions of the neck or arm length and a few combinations of normal dimensions. speaking, the same is true for most other types or configurations of dresses, such as footwear, gloves, coats, etc. Although it is theoretically possible to have a large number of different normal sizes in stock, in order to offer more options to a consumer, the costs to keep large quantities stored make that prohibitive. Consequently, only a few normal sizes are offered in retail stores to consumers. Regardless of this, precisely in the simple case of women's pants, there are literally combinations of waist, hip, height and inner seam measurements that are possible for a pair of jeans if a large population is going to conform to the cut. Only a particular combination is equally good in its shaped cut for any given person. If any other dimension of the person is different from the statistical averages, sitting well will be very difficult. If the size of the waist is less than the average or the pants that the buyer wants have a shorter height, it will be difficult to have a good shape of the clothes ready to be used. In a sample of 500 women measured in a survey, only 11 of the 500, or approximately 2% had exactly conformed to the normal sizes of the industry. Therefore, many consumers reject ready-to-wear clothing and return to clothing made to measure. In order to manufacture some dress on measure, you must take the key dimensions of the body and then build the garment. In the past four traditional ways have been used to do this: 1. Use a measuring tape to measure the person in their key dimensions and then use those dimensions to build the garment. 2. Place the current garment that the "-summer will wear on the person and make tailoring adjustments to that garment 3. Use of an adjustable garment to capture the body's dimensions 4. Use of some type of mechanical device, optical or video to capture the dimensions of the body. The first two solutions used together constitute the classic tailor-made tailoring. Although in general producing a good shaped cut, the skilled work of the tailor or seamstress required for custom tailoring makes it too expensive for manufacturers and retail sale of garments ready to use and too expensive for many consumers. Adjustable test patterns or garments are known in the art and have been used to solve the problem. This may also require expert work at the retail site, in order to make appropriate adjustments. If only an adjustable garment or even several adjustable garments are worn in the normal sizes, a considerable amount of work and expense also remains on the cutting and tailoring side, since each garment must be singularly cut at the tight dimensions on each consumer. The use of 'd-omputers' can speed up the collection of information that needs to be transmitted about the adjustments to be made, but the requirements of single cuts are still costly and time-consuming. Even when computers are used to create a measured pattern based on actual measurements, the costs and time for singular cuts to those dimensions usually remain significant. Materials such as denim, leather, vinyl or leather or other materials that are also difficult to work complicate the problem even more. If the garment is not shortened satisfactorily at the first time, it may be prohibitively expensive to adjust, so that it feels good if the consumer is not satisfied with the current garment fit. Consequently, other improvements attempted in the area include the use of optical or electrical sensors and a computer to improve the accuracy of measurements. In this type of scheme, the optical or electronic device is used to detect or capture measurements of a person's body. In one system, the individual wears a special garment that has measuring devices that can be "read" by the system. This can be combined with a computer system such as one that creates or measures a special pattern based on those readings. therefore, the measurements can be taken or made interactively and accurately, but each garment must still be cut to the unique dimensions thus determined. Although this improves the accuracy and collection of information on measurement, this still does not solve the problems and remaining costs of singular cutting and assembly facing the manufacturer on a large scale. Large-scale manufacturers can make as many as 60,000 or 70,000 pairs of pants per week in factories around the world. Typically, costs have remained low with the use of uniform sizes, which lowers or eliminates the need for especially expert work and specialized singular cutting and tracking. Tailor-made tailoring done in accordance with traditional methods is inconsistent with large-scale manufacturers and low costs. Finally, there is a significant subjective element in relation to the perception or feeling of sitting well of a garment that varies from consumer to consumer. For example, two consumers whose measurements are exactly the same, may have different tastes in relation to looseness or tightness or adjustment, since one may prefer a loose garment and the other may prefer a tight garment. Or, two consumers with identical hips may differ in their style preferences, with one preferring to wear a pair of denim pants with low hips and the other with high hips. In order to conform to the subjective preferences of consumers, it may be necessary to adjust one or more of the other dimensions since they are interrelated. If only objective measures are used for the garment on measure without a real adjustment, these subjective elements can often cause a garment constructed only on objective data to be returned by the consumer. A high return or rejection of clothing is expensive both for those who sell at retail and for manufacturers.

DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION The present invention is a tailor-made tailoring system and method for making garments using numerous test dresses of different predetermined dimensions to be a finished product. A system is used to keep track of the number of dresses tested and add one of their dimensions. When a consumer tries on one of these test dresses, a device associated with a system is used to collect the consumer's answers about the shaped cut or fit. If a test dress does not fit well, the system suggests the following so that try it on, according to the previously defined rules. When a particular tested dress adjustment has been approved for purchase by the consumer, this is reported to a manufacturing system, where a piece of clothing corresponding to the dimensions of the approved tested dress is cut, sewn, treated and shipped as a finished dress. It is an object of the present invention to provide a method and apparatus for producing dresses that fit on a large scale without the high costs of traditional custom cut methods. Garments manufactured in accordance with the method and apparatus of the present invention can be constructed on a large scale from one of numerous predetermined dimensions corresponding to the approved, predetermined dimensions of a tested dress actually selected and approved by a consumer. It is a further object of the present invention to provide those who sell at retail and • - - - Warehouses with a system easily used to collect information from a shaped cut to identify a particular tested and approved dress to be manufactured and sold. It is a feature of the present invention that allows consumers to actually try on a dress for adjustment and to fit them well before a custom order is placed. It is an aspect of the present invention to enable a bespoke garment manufacturer to optimize the use of materials by providing predetermined dimensions that can be used to cut and manufacture finished garments. The tracing of the various dimensions can be selected beforehand to ensure, for example, the optimal use of fabric, while a custom shaped cut is still provided. It is another aspect of the present invention that a number of types of systems can be implemented, from electronic devices or simple manuals to computerized systems. Yet another feature of the invention is the ability to collect information of appropriate conformation by the consumer and take it to remote manufacturing sites. Using the predetermined dimensions, ~ d > its corresponding codes, along with the order and shipping information, a retailer can fill orders quickly for items that are not in stock. Still another feature of the systems constructed in accordance with the present invention is that they use expert system rules. When new types of clothing for manufacturing, such as shirts or footwear, are considered, for example, appropriate rules can be developed and implemented to conform them.

BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS Figure 1 is an illustrative front and side view of a test gown, shelves containing numerous other gowns for testing and a system for storing information about them to transmit to a manufacturing system, in accordance with the present invention. Figure 2 is a schematic drawing illustrating some types of dresses that can be manufactured using the present invention. Figure 3 is a front view of a series of shelves containing test dresses. Figure 4 is a flow diagram illustrating the main stages in the shaped cutting process. Figure 5 is a flow diagram illustrating detailed steps of part of the shaped cutting process. Figure 6 is a flow diagram showing another example of a possible detail stage of the shaped cutting process. Figure 7 is a flow chart of the main logic of a system constructed in accordance with the present invention.

Figure 8 is an illustrative front perspective view of some possible embodiments of a system constructed in accordance with the present invention. Figure 9 is a front perspective view illustrating some types of input devices. Figure 10 is a flow diagram of the steps used to determine the dimensions for use in the construction of a test dress, the number to be made and the test rules. Figure 11 shows three examples of dimensions considered in a hypothetical shaped cut. Figure 12 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cutting information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating a start screen. Figure 13 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cutting information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating a screen showing options eliminated by conformation responses of the buyer's prospect. Figure 14 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cut information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating an alternative way of supplying information of initial dimensions. Figure 15 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cutting information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating the results of two "clothing tests." Figure 16 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cutting information according to the present invention, illustrating hem length options of a selected test dress Figure 17 is a schematic view of an interface of a digital display of a device used to collect shaped cut information in accordance with the present invention, illustrating the final approval and purchase options.

BEST MODE FOR CARRYING OUT THE INVENTION In Figure 1, a test dress 10 in the shape of a women's pants is shown. As will be apparent to those skilled in the art, any of a number of different types of dress such as a dress for humans or pets or decks Forms for furniture or other objects capable of variations in significant dimensions can be made with the method and apparatus of the present invention A side view 12 of a test dress 10, which bears a measuring device 14, is shown. a preferred embodiment of the present invention, a considerable number of test dresses 10 each with different dimensions from the others, is kept in a retail store or on the site in containers or hangers such as shelves 20. For ease of Each cube 30 of the shelves 20 contains a specific number of test dresses 10. Here, 30 different test dresses are shown in a cube 30. In this example, about 500 test dresses are used each with different dimensions. the others, in a preferred embodiment, are ordinarily not used as articles in stock, but are reserved for testing clothes.

In a preferred embodiment, the test dresses 10 are stored on shelves 20 according to size grades in their dimensions. For example, women's pants, test dresses having a waist size of 24 will be stored in the first column of shelves 20, with each cube 30 containing five pairs of the same hip size. Hip sizes increase by one inch '^ > or each cube 30 of five dresses 10 test. Within a bucket 30, test dresses 10 having five different height measurements are stored for each particular waist / hip combination in this example. As will be shown, a method of the present invention is used to determine the number of test dresses 10 to be manufactured for a store, together with their dimensions for a selected design and dress configuration, such as women's pants. Still in Figure 1, the system 40 is used in a retail store to store the dimensions of each of the test dresses 10 on shelves 20. Additional systems or terminals 42 may also be used. According to the method and apparatus of the present invention, the buyer selects the test dresses 10 and reports cut information formed to a manager to enter the system 40. If the first selection does not adjust, the system 40 recommends the following 10 test dress, using the consumer shaping information responses. The forming information responses may include a request to make the waist looser, for example, the system 40 will use that information to determine which test dress 10 is suggested as follows. When the shaped cut has been approved by a buyer, this can be indicated to the system 40 and further lead to a server 50, which has a network and other address information stored on disks or other storage devices 52. The exact dimensions of the test dress 10 already approved by the purchaser can then be transmitted to the cutting controller 60. In a preferred embodiment, the controller 60 of cut will contain information about previously defined patterns for cutting the parts of the fabric according to the exact dimensions of the test dress 10 approved by the consumer. Once cut, the fabric can be transported by the manufacturing system 70. The manufacturing system 70 may include several subsystems such as the trailing system 80 and the boarding system 90. After cutting, the fabric can be sewn into the sewing station 110, treated at the treat station 120, packed at the station 123 and then shipped to the retail store or directly to the consumer via the shipping system 90. Turning now to Figure 2, some types of test dresses 10 are shown. The test dress 10 is shown here as a pair of women's pants, which have a hip 10a, a waist 10b and a height 10c of predetermined dimensions. In a preferred embodiment, "" ^ height is measured as the distance between the crotch and the waist of a pair of pants from front to back. If the height is shorter, the waist will seat lower in the user. If the height is higher, the waist will be higher on the user. Still in Figure 2, a dress and other type of configuration such as a shirt 13 are illustrated.

In a similar manner, footwear such as boots 17 or another shaped dress such as gloves 18 may also be manufactured in accordance with the method and apparatus of the present invention. Returning to Figure 2, an lOx pattern having several lOz parts is shown. Each part may be marked with a code or key lOy corresponding to the same dimensions as the particular test dress 10. Also in Figure 2, a side view 12 of the test apparatus 10 is shown, with a measuring device 14 attached to an outer leg. In a preferred embodiment, the device 14 is marked with the dimensions allowable for the length of an internal seam for a pair of pants. Turning now to Figure 3, it can be seen that each cube 30 of the shelves 20 contains five test dresses 10, all of which have the same hip 10a and waist 10b, but each has a different height 10c. X ^ r therefore, in this illustration of a preferred embodiment of the invention, they are used to determine the shape that feels well close to 500 different pairs of test dresses 10. In the preferred embodiment, for each waist, hip and height combination, there are at least nine possible internal seam or hem lengths. Therefore, a matrix of several thousand combinations of different body sizes or sizes is used to produce a finished dress. Referring now to Figure 4, the method and apparatus used to determine a shaped cut that feels good in a retail store are shown in a process flow diagram. After a consumer has entered the store, in step A0, a sales manager can measure the buyer in stage Al or, alternatively, ask the consumer or consumer their normal size. Next, in step A12, the manager supplies information on hip 10a, waist 10b and height 10c to the system, using the data collected from the buyer. In step A3, the system will suggest a specific test dress 10 to be tested. In the situation where there are several hundred or thousands of clothing tests, the manager typically gives the specific test dress 10 suggested by the system shown here as stage A4. After the consumer tastes the dress 10, if he or she likes how the test dress 10 feels as indicated in the All stage, the attendant proceeds to the step A13 to capture information about the dress 10. Measurements of the lengths of the hem or inner seam tape and then provide an order to the system in step A14. Still in Figure 4, if the buyer wishes .modifications, as shown in step A5, such as a looser waist or hips or a greater or lesser height, these modifications are indicated to the system in step A6 by the attendant. Using predetermined rules, the system recommends in step A7 a new test apparatus 10 having dimensions that are closer to those indicated according to desire. The manager provides the new test dress 10 in step A8 and the consumer tests it in step A9. If the consumer likes how the test dress 10 sits (step A12), steps A13 and A14 are performed. If not, and the buyer wants additional modifications as shown in the AlO stage, steps A6 to AlO are repeated until the buyer either approves a test dress 10 or decides not to buy anything (DNP). In Figure 5, a flow diagram of a more detailed view of the operation of some of the stages of the present invention is shown. Here, in the BO stage, a buyer has tried a test dress 10 which is a pair of pants and wants more space in the seating area. Using predetermined rules, the system suggests expanding the measurements of hip 10a in stage Bl. If this new test dress 10 fits well (stage B2) the attendant proceeds to step A13 in Figure 4 above to collect , Additional Information. Back to Figure 5, if the new test dress 10 does not adjust, the system suggests expanding the hip measurements 10a again and will suggest yet another test dress 10 having these new dimensions in step B3. In step B4, the shaping of this test dress 10 is verified. If it does not fit, the system proceeds to step B5 to see if there is a reasonable fashion limit. For example, although hundreds or thousands of garments can be defined by the present invention, a particular manufacturer may decide that it is not economically possible to try to sell clothing garments having certain dimensions. These fashion limits can be included in the system. The system may suggest an alternative set of test dress 10 such as one having a shop height 10c, as indicated in step B6. It is possible that that or a larger waist 10b, as may be suggested in step B6, may suggest a test dress 10 which - '> It will adjust to the consumer's measurements and that is within the limits of the fashion imposed by the manufacturer. If the new test dress 10 fits properly (step B7) the system instructs the attendant to go to step A13. If not, another suggestion can be made in stage B8, namely starting with a larger waist. In Figure 6, another set of ,. variations in the process, in which the buyer wants pants with a lower seat on her hips (stage C0).

The present invention will suggest a shorter height, first in the Cl stage and will continue until a fashionable limit is achieved in the C5 stage. If the test dress 10 still does not fit, the system will suggest a larger waist, as shown in step C6. Processing continues until a confirmed cut is approved or the consumer decides not to buy it. Referring now to Figure 7, a full flow diagram of the logic of a preferred embodiment is shown. Assuming that the consumer is tested a pair of test dresses 10 in the DO stage, the system checks this setting in DI. If the test dress 10 fits and the consumer wishes to order, the order is taken in step D2. If that dress does not fit, the system verifies if the waist dimensions were approved by the consumer in "3", if not, a following verification is made to see if the waist fashion limit has been reached in the stage If this is the case, the system will check whether a different 10a or 10c height is suggested in step D. If this is the case, a different test dress 10 will be suggested, otherwise other options will not be possible and the system proceeds to DB to collect information that there is not .sales in step 16. Note that when the system determines that the options have been exhausted in one or more of the dimensions, these selections are disabled so that the user can no longer select them. Still with reference to Figure 7, if a waist limit is not reached, the processing proceeds to step D7, to see if the hip dimensions 10a were approved. Processing similar to that described for the waist dimensions is performed in steps D8, D9 and DIO. If the selected dimensions are still possible, the system will ask if the height 10c of the test dress 10 is approved in the Dll stage. If this is not the case, the selection of limits and remaining in steps D12 and D13 are verified. The system continues to disable those options that were determined to be no longer available. Finally, still in Figure 7 in the stage D15, the system checks whether others can still be suggested "" o dimensions, if it has not yet been approved and dress 10 test. If something remains, the system proceeds to step D17, to suggest a dress and the consumer can measure that dress. Turning now to Figure 8, it will be apparent to those skilled in the art that the method and apparatus of the present invention can be implemented in a variety of ways. For example, a manual system can use a card holder 41, together with an instruction manual to follow the logic illustrated in the previous Figure.

Alternatively, an electronic device 42, such as a dedicated palmtop device similar to a previously programmed electronic calculator, may be used.

Any of these can be used in conjunction with a fax machine 43 or a modem 44 to carry the forming information to a manufacturing system. Still in Figure 8, a voice activated system or device 45 can be connected to a computer system 40 to implement the invention. Turning now to Figure 9, a preferred embodiment of the present invention using an interactive digital display 40c is shown. A simpler display device 40b can be used with a keyboard. In a preferred embodiment a digital display 40c is coupled to a system 40 and a keyboard. In a preferred embodiment, a common industrial personal computer system with a touch-sensitive display and keyboard is used. The personal computer is programmed in Visual Basic to create the ease of using an interface, but as will be apparent to those skilled in the art, any of a number of computer systems such as "laptops", frames ^ -principales, minicomputadoras, processors in parallel, neural networks, etc. can be used Similarly, any of a number of existing program languages can be used to create a graphical user interface or voice interface or other interface that is simple and easy for both the manager and the consumer. A preferred embodiment stores and has access to the dimensional information in an access matrix or table. The illustration of the previous logical flow can be implemented in any of a number of ways to access this information including "software", "firmware", "hardware", etc. Referring now to Figure 10, the method used by the present invention to determine quantities and dimensions for test dresses 10 is shown. The flowchart indicates that a design and dress configuration is selected in the EO stage. In a "" Preferred embodiment, this configuration is a women's trousers, although it should be clear to experts that shirts, blouses, gloves, footwear or any other type of dress can also be selected. population sample, the size of this will depend on the type of dress configuration selected. ..preferred, approximately 1300 individual measurements were used. In stage E2, these measurements were obtained from individuals who were measured for the first time or if there is any database that may be important, from this one. In the preferred embodiment the actual measurements are taken from at least a subset of the sample, so that an expert can observe that differences in dimensions between these individuals can also be detected. For example, in a preferred embodiment, it was found that women who tried pants of different dimensions, usually were not able to detect differences less than one inch in the waist 10b or hip 10a dimensions. However, in most of the women who were measured they could detect differences as small as half an inch in the height dimensions. These observations were made in -A step E3 and were used in step E4, together with any important information about the limits of the fashion to generate rules for selecting test dresses in step E4. The information is also used to decide in step E5 how to make many test dresses 10 and in step E6, how to make many patterns, if any. It will be noted that although patterns have been used with The test dresses 10 in a preferred embodiment, it is possible that other dresses such as molded or shaped test dresses 10 may not require patterns. Turning now to Figure 11, an illustration of the selection process according to the method and apparatus of the present invention is given. In the diagrams Ia, llb and 11c, the waist dimensions 10b, hip 10a and height 10c are shown for trousers, together with the length 14a of the hem or seam internal seam. In the examples shown in Figure 11, examples are illustrated from the perspective of the manager operating a device associated with the system in Figures 12 to 17 below. Turning now to Figure 12, where a digital display of a preferred embodiment is shown, a number of "button" options are illustrated. Buttons 205, 210 and 215 indicate that the person in charge has supplied a name of the prospective buyer (Amy Smith) and the initials of the manager (bp). In a preferred embodiment of the invention, the manager measures the buyer and supplies their dimensions, shown here as the button 220 with a waist value of 29, button 225 with a hip measurement of 42 and a button 230 with a height of 25 1/2. Button 235 can be used to indicate that the customer does not want to buy anything. Button 240 can be selected to return to a previous screen and button 245 can be used if the manager wants to start over. Now in Figure 13, a screen with the button 300 showing the measurements taken from the buyer and a list 320 of test dress 10 is shown, showing a test dress 10 which has been suggested. (Figure 14 shows an alternative way of supplying dimensions, if no action has been taken.) Either the manager or the prospective buyer can supply the normal size of the buyer from Table 223. The selected size is translated by the system into the dimensions of a suggested test dress 10). Returning to Figure 13, buttons having shaded buttons 337 are shown. These options or selections of dimensions have been disabled by the system, after the consumer has reported that some of the dimensions do not remain. Those buttons 360-380 that have no shaded portion, are the options that remain. Figure 15 shows the screen options presented after a test dress 10 has been tested. Figure 16 illustrates the incorporation of the internal seam hem length measurements after a test dress 10 has been selected. Here, the consumer orders the internal seam 28 with the button 280. Figure 17 shows a screen that can be used after all the dimensions have been approved. If the buyer wishes to order, press button 383 to call order information screens, if desired. The button 385 can be used to call screens for shipment information for use by the manufacturer system, and, still in Figure 17, payment methods can be selected with the button 990. Those skilled in the art will appreciate that the embodiments described above they are illustrative only and that other systems within the spirit of the present teachings fall within the scope of the present invention.

Claims (6)

1. CLAIMS 1. - Apparatus for tailoring and tailoring dresses of a selected design and configuration, comprising: a plurality of test dresses each having predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses; a system for storing and accessing the predetermined dimensions of each of the test dresses and for providing adjustment information of a prospective purchaser in relation to those test dresses currently tested by the purchaser; a device associated with the system for collecting the relative fit information of each of the plurality of test dresses currently tested by a prospective purchaser and reporting adjustment information to identify the final approved predetermined dimensions for manufacturing.
2. 2. Apparatus according to clause 1 wherein each of the plurality of test dresses carries a code indicating its predetermined dimensions.
3. 3. Apparatus according to clause 2, further comprising a plurality of patterns, each of the patterns corresponding to one of the plurality of test dresses and carrying their code.
4. 4. Apparatus according to clause 3, wherein each of the plurality of patterns includes suitable parts to assemble in the selected design and configuration, each part carrying a code corresponding to each of the plurality of patterns.
5. 5. Apparatus according to clause 1, wherein the system includes rules to suggest one of the plurality of test dresses for use to determine an acceptable conformation.
6. 6. Apparatus according to clause 4, where the materials are cut to correspond to the parts that carry the code corresponding to one of the plurality of -natrons. 1 . Apparatus according to clause 1, wherein the selected design and configuration comprises women's pants. 8. Apparatus according to clause 1, wherein the selected design and configuration comprises footwear. 9. Apparatus according to clause 1, wherein each of the plurality of test dresses includes a measuring device attached to one edge of each of them, this measuring device has an adjustable hem length, wherein the edge it can be flipped and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem. 10. Apparatus for tailoring and tailoring clothing of a selected design and configuration, comprising: an electronic device for storing and having access to information of dimensions, this electronic device has a communications capacity and a capacity to supply adjustment information of a prospective buyer in relation to those test dresses currently tested by that purchaser; a plurality of test dresses each of which has predetermined dimensions that differ --of the dimensions of each of the other test dresses, these predetermined dimensions are stored in the electronic device for each of the test dresses; an indicating device associated with the electronic device for collecting the relative adjustment information of each of the predetermined dimensions of those test dresses currently tested by a prospective purchaser and reporting the adjustment information to identify the predetermined dimensions approved at the end for manufacturing. 11. Apparatus according to clause 10, wherein each of the plurality of test dresses carries a code corresponding to its dimensions. 12. Apparatus according to clause 11, further comprising a plurality of patterns each one of which corresponds to one of the plurality of dresses of Vrueba, to manufacture a selected design and configuration. 13. Apparatus according to clause 12, wherein each of the plurality of patterns includes suitable parts to be assembled in a selected design and configuration, each part carrying a code corresponding to each of the plurality of patterns. '-. 14.- Apparatus according to clause 13, where materials are cut to correspond to the parts that carry code. 15. Apparatus according to clause 10, wherein the electronic device includes logic that responds to the adjustment information provided to suggest one of the plurality of test dresses of different dimensions to be used to determine acceptable fit. 16. Apparatus according to clause 10, wherein each of the plurality of test dresses includes a measuring device attached to one edge of each of them, which has an adjustable hem length, wherein the edge can be turned over and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem as part of the adjustment information. 17.- Apparatus for tailoring and tailoring of dresses of a selected design and configuration, comprising: a computer system that has expert system rules for storing and having access to information of dimensions, this computer system has a communication capacity; a plurality of test dresses each of which has predetermined dimensions that differ ^ -4e the dimensions of each of the other test dresses, these predetermined dimensions are stored in the computer system for each of the test dresses; an indicating device associated with the computer system for collecting the relative fit information of each of the predetermined dimensions of those test dresses currently tested by a prospective purchaser and reporting the fit information to identify the predetermined dimensions approved at the end for manufacturing . 18. Apparatus according to clause 17, wherein the plurality of test dresses carries a code corresponding to its dimensions. 19. Apparatus according to clause 18, further comprising a plurality of patterns each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses, to manufacture a selected design and configuration. 20. Apparatus according to clause 18, wherein each of the plurality of patterns includes suitable parts to assemble in a selected design and configuration, each part carrying a code corresponding to each of the plurality of patterns. 21.- Apparatus according to clause 20, where materials are cut to correspond to the parts that carry code. 22. Apparatus according to clause 17, where the rules of the expert system are derived from the empirical analysis of the actual use of prototypes of the plurality of test dresses together with measurements to determine the number of test dresses to be manufactured and their dimensions . 23. Apparatus according to clause 17, wherein the rules of the expert system limit the incremental changes in dimensions of the plurality of test dresses to those detectable by prospective buyers. 24.- Apparatus according to clause 17, where the rules of the expert system limit the number of test dresses to recommend to a prospective buyer according to predetermined restrictions. 25. Apparatus according to clause 17, wherein the rules of the expert system disables the options of selecting dimensions during the processing to those dimensional selection options no longer applied to that of the plurality of test dresses also to adjust. 26.- Apparatus according to clause 17, where the indicating device is interactive. - 27.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, wherein the indicating device comprises a display screen coupled to a keyboard. 28. Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, wherein the indicating device comprises a digital display. 29. Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, wherein the indicating device comprises a voice activated system. 30.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, where the indicating device is controlled by an easy-to-use interface. 31.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, where the communication capacity comprises a connection to a network. 32.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, where the communication capacity comprises a facsimile transmission. 33.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, where the adjustment information also includes information on order of processing and delivery. 34.- Apparatus according to clause 10 or 17, wherein each of the plurality of test dresses includes a measuring device attached to one edge of each * -4e them having an adjustable hem length, wherein the edge can be turned over and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem as part of the adjustment information. 35. Apparatus for cutting and tailoring tailor-made dresses of a selected design and configuration, comprising: a plurality of test dresses each having predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and each Test dress carries a code that indicates its predetermined dimensions; a plurality of patterns for manufacturing the selected design and configuration dresses, each of the plurality of patterns having a predetermined code and dimensions corresponding to one of the plurality of test dresses; a system for storing and having access to information about the code and the predetermined dimensions of each of the test dresses and patterns, this system is associated with a device for collecting the final adjustment dimensions approved; a manufacturing system to cut, track, sew, treat and ship the finished dress "Selected design and configuration constructed from patterns and coded parts according to the approved adjustment dimensions 36. Apparatus according to clause 35, which further comprises a marker imposed on each of the plurality of test dresses. Apparatus according to clause 35, wherein the marker comprises a label 38. Apparatus according to clause 35, wherein the marker comprises a washable substance. 39. Apparatus according to clause 35, wherein the code further comprises the numerical dimensions of the test dress. 40. Apparatus according to clause 35, wherein the code also comprises a bar code image. 41. Apparatus according to clause 35, where the patterns are designed to maximize the use of "ateriales". 42. Apparatus according to clause 35, where the manufacturing system responds to the volume and time of arrival of orders in such a way as to optimize stocks. 43.- Apparatus according to clause 35, where the manufacturing system responds to the volume and time of - * "; ' Bequest of orders in such a way as to optimize the delivery time 44. Apparatus for tailoring and tailoring dresses of a selected design and configuration, comprising: a plurality of test dresses each of which has dimensions predetermined ones that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses, and each test dress carries a code that incates the predetermined dimensions. a system for storing and accessing the predetermined dimensions of the test dresses; a measuring device associated with one edge of each of the test dresses having an adjustable hem length, with which the edge can be flipped over and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem; a device associated with the system for collecting the relative fit information of each of the predetermined dimensions of those test dresses currently tested on a prospective purchaser, together with the desired hem length selected by the purchaser and reporting the length of the hem and the adjustment information to identify the dimensions -Determined endings approved for manufacturing. 45. Apparatus according to clause 44, further comprising a plurality of patterns each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses and hem lengths. 46. Apparatus according to clause 44, wherein the measuring device is a tape of a flexible material that has markings that increase. 47. Apparatus according to clause 44, wherein the markings include all the permissible lengths of hem length for that part in the test dress. 48. Method for tailoring and tailoring of a selected design and configuration dress, comprising the steps of: manufacturing a plurality of test dresses each of which has predetermined dimensions that aifieren of the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and each of the test dresses carries a code that indicates the predetermined dimensions; store and have access to the predetermined dimensions of each of the test dresses in a system capable of receiving adjustment information from a prospective purchaser in relation to those dresses of - "currently tested checks on that buyer, associate a device with the system to collect the information and relative adjustment of each of the predetermined dimensions of the test dresses currently tested by a prospective buyer and report that adjustment information to identify the dimensions predetermined final approved for manufacturing 49. The method of clause 48, which further comprises the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses and which carry their code. - Method of clause 48, wherein the step of accessing and storing predetermined dimensions includes incorporating rules to suggest test dresses for use in determining an acceptable fit. 51.- Method of clause 48, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns includes the step of breaking each pattern into parts with each part carrying a code corresponding to the pattern. 52. Method according to clause 51, which comprises an additional step of manufacturing cut materials to correspond to the parts with the pattern code. 53.- Method according to clause 48, where the - "" ^ Top of manufacturing the test dresses further comprises the stage of selecting women's pants as the selected configuration and design. 54.- Method according to clause 48, wherein the stage of manufacturing the test dresses also includes the stage of selecting footwear as the selected configuration and design. 55.- Method according to clause 48, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of test dresses includes the step of attaching a measuring device to one edge of each of the plurality of test dresses having an adjustable hem length , whereby the edge can be folded and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem. 56.- Method for tailoring and tailoring of a dress of selected design and configuration, comprising the steps of: storing and having access to dimension and code information in an electronic device that has communications capability and that is capable of receive adjustment information from a prospective buyer in relation to those test dresses currently tested on that purchaser; manufacture a plurality of test dresses One of which has predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and each of the test dresses carries a code indicating its predetermined dimensions, this code and the predetermined dimensions are stored in the electronic device for each of the test dresses; associating an indicating device with the electronic device to collect the relative adjustment information of each of the predetermined dimensions of the test dresses currently tested by a prospective purchaser and reporting that adjustment information to identify the predetermined final approved dimensions for manufacturing. 57.- Method according to clause 56, which further comprises the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns, each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses. 58.- Method according to clause 57, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns also includes the step of manufacturing parts and each of the parts carries a code corresponding to the pattern. 59.- Method according to clause 58, which also includes the step of cutting materials so that "They correspond to those parts and that includes the step of manufacturing those materials with the pattern code 60.- Method according to clause 56, where the step of manufacturing a plurality of test dresses includes the step of attaching a measuring device to one edge of each of the plurality of test dresses having an adjustable hem length, whereby the edge can be folded and measured 61.- Method for tailoring and tailoring a dress of selected design and configuration, comprising the steps of: deriving rules from an expert system to store and have access to the information of the dimensions in a computer system that has communications capability, to manufacture a plurality of test dresses each of which has predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and each of the test dresses carries a code indicating the predetermined dimensions, this code and the predetermined dimensions are stored in the computer system for each of the test dresses; associating a device with the computer system to collect the relative fit information of each of the predetermined dimensions of the test dresses currently tested by a prospective purchaser and report that fit information to identify the final approved predetermined dimensions for manufacturing. 62.- Method according to clause 61, which further comprises the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses. 63.- Method according to clause 62, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns also includes the step of manufacturing parts that each carry a code corresponding to that pattern. 64.- Method according to clause 63, where the stage of cutting materials to correspond to those parts includes the step of manufacturing those materials with the pattern code. 65.- Method according to clause 61, wherein the step of deriving expert system rules also comprises deriving the expert system rules through the empirical analysis of the current use of prototypes of the plurality of test dresses and analyzing the measurements made, for • "determine the number of test dresses to manufacture and their dimensions 66. Method according to clause 61, wherein the stage of deriving expert system rules also includes including rules of incremental changes of limitation in dimensions of test dresses 67.- Method according to clause 61, wherein the stage of deriving expert system rules also includes including rules that limit the number of test dresses to those recommended to a prospective buyer according to restrictions. predetermined 68.- Method according to clause 61, where the stage of deriving expert system rules buy It also includes rules that disable the dimensional selection options during the processing to those dimensional selection options not applied to the test dresses equally for adjustment. 69.- Method according to clause 61, which also includes the step of associating an interactive indicating device with the computer system. 70.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, where the stage of associating the indicator device includes the step of making it interactive. 71, .- Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of associating the indicating device further includes coupling a display screen to a keyboard. 72.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of associating the indicating device also includes coupling a digital display with the system. 73.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of associating the indicating device also includes coupling a system activated by voice to the system. 74. Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of associating the indicating device also includes the step of controlling it by means of an easy-to-use interface. 75.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, where the communication capacity also includes the stage of connecting it to a network. 76.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, where the communication capacity also includes the stage of including capabilities for facsimile transmission. 77.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of identifying the adjustment information also includes the step of attaching information of order of processing and sending. 78.- Method according to clause 56 or 61, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of test dresses includes the step of attaching a measuring device to one edge of each of the plurality of test dresses having a length of adjustable hem, whereby the edge can be flipped over and measured by the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem as part of the adjustment information. 79.- Method for tailoring and tailoring of a selected design and configuration dress, comprising the steps of: manufacturing a plurality of test dresses each of which has predetermined dimensions that differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and each test dress has a code that indicates its predetermined dimensions; fabricating a plurality of patterns each of which has a predetermined code and dimensions corresponding to one of the test dresses; fabricate each part of cut materials from each pattern with the code corresponding to the pattern using a marker; store and have access to information about the codes and predetermined dimensions of dresses ^ \ test and patterns in the system, this system associated with a device to collect the final approved adjustment dimensions; manufacture the finished dress of selected design and configuration by cutting, trapping, sewing, treating and shipping dresses constructed from patterns and coded parts according to the approved fit dimensions. 80.- Method according to clause 79, where the stage of marking includes using labels such as markers. 81. - Method according to clause 79, wherein the marking step includes using a washable substance as the marker. 82.- Method according to clause 79, wherein the step of marking includes a step to mark each of the plurality of test dresses. 83.- Method according to clause 79, where the stage of marking includes the stage of using as code the numerical dimensions of the test dress. 84.- Method according to clause 79, wherein the step of marking includes the step of using a barcode image as a code. 85.- Method according to clause 79, wherein the step of manufacturing a plurality of patterns also includes 'the stage of extending them to optimize the use of materials. 86.- Method according to clause 79, wherein the stage of manufacturing the finished dress also includes the step of responding to the volume and time of arrival of orders in such a way as to optimize the stock. 87.- Method according to clause 79, wherein the step of manufacturing the finished dress also includes the step of responding to the volume and time of arrival of orders in such a way as to optimize the delivery time. 88.- Method for tailoring and tailoring of a dress of selected design and configuration, comprising the steps of: storing and having access to the predetermined dimensions of the test dress in the system; attaching a measuring device to one edge of each of the plurality of test dresses having an adjustable hem length, whereby the edge can be flipped and measured with the measuring device to capture a desired length of hem; associating a device with the system to collect the relative fit information of each of the predetermined dimensions of those test dresses currently tested by a prospective buyer, together with the desired hem length selected by the 'buyer and report the length of the hem and adjustment information to identify the final approved predetermined dimensions for manufacturing. 89. Method according to clause 88, which further comprises the step of: manufacturing a plurality of patterns each of which corresponds to one of the plurality of test dresses and hem lengths. 90. Method according to clause 88, wherein the step of fastening a measuring device also includes the step of: doing it as a flexible material tape that has increment marks on it. 91.- Method according to clause 90, wherein the step of marking the tape includes the step of indicating all the permissible dimensions of hem length for the part of the test dress. 92.- Method to collect information on dimensions for tailoring and tailoring of selected design and configuration dresses, comprising the steps of: determining the size and dimensions of a sample of the population that is measured; collect measurements of individuals in sizes ie sample of population in the dimensions; observe differences in objectives of the dimensions detectable by individuals; generate sets of rules based on measurements. 93.- Method according to clause 92, further comprising the steps of: manufacturing a plurality of test dresses each having predetermined dimensions based on the measurements and which differ from the dimensions of each of the other test dresses and where each test dress carries a code or key indicating its predetermined dimensions. 94.- Method according to clause 61, further comprising the step of forming a plurality of patterns each of which has a predetermined code and dimensions corresponding to one of the plurality of test dresses.