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Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

Ms. Toody Goo Shoes

I want to go everywhere I haven't been, and back to everywhere I have been.

Tuesday, September 11, 2018

BUDAPEST: THE PEARL OF THE DANUBE RIVER



Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary



This is the final segment in a multi-part series about our Danube River cruise.


River Cruise Days 11-12

Our luggage has been collected; breakfast has been eaten, and goodbyes have been said to the wonderful Ms. Joy crew. I run up to the roof deck one last time to get my first view of Budapest, but I've got to hurry, as we are disembarking the ship momentarily.

The remainder of our trip will be on land, with two full days in Budapest. Our arrival in Hungary's capital marks entry to the fifth and final country on our tour. 

The Danube River splits Budapest into two distinct sections. The only way I can remember which side is Buda, and which side is Pest (pronounced Pesht) is if I think of Buda as "buda"-ful and residential, in contrast to urban and vibrant Pest, which is full of "zest" (um, zesht?).  

We start out on the Pest side at the Great Market Hall, an indoor shopper's mecca. We have time on our own for souvenir shopping, and most of us make a bee-line for the paprika. Which is sweet? Which is hot? Buy both! I zoom through this cavernous space like a contestant on Supermarket Sweep, but in the end, paprika and hand-painted napkin rings are my only purchases.

Great Market Hall in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary

Great Market Hall in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary



Back on the buses for the ride to Buda, we catch our first glimpse of the Castle Hill district. The enormous green-domed structure is Buda Castle, a World Heritage Site.

Buda Castle in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary



And then, St. Matthias Church, with its orange-tiled roof and tall spire, and the shorter, pointy tops of Fisherman's Bastion come into view.

St. Matthais Church in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


I'm a little confused about this Fisherman's Bastion thing. Wouldn't something that has to do with fish be closer to the banks of the river?  I'll have to wait a little longer for that answer.

The complex looks like it is taken right out of a fairtytale book. Maybe I've seen a few too many Disney movies in my life, but I'm pretty sure Sleeping Beauty just waved to me from that tower on the right.


Fisherman's Bastion in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


Our walking tour takes us through the cobblestone streets of Buda. We arrive at St. Matthias church........whoa, it's massive!  I wish I had a drone, because I bet the roof looks amazing from above.


St. Matthais Church in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The interior of this cathedral, built in the 14th century, is divine in more ways than one. 

St. Matthais Church in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


Back outside now, our guide gives the explanation for Fisherman's Bastion. The towers were built at the end of the 19th century purely as a lookout for panoramic views of Budapest. One of the explanations for the name is that the fishermen who used to live in the city down below, guarded the castle walls.

Fisherman's Bastion in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


So that settles it. There's nothing fishy going on here. And the views? Spectacular! 

I remember reading that our hotel, the Ritz Carlton, is right across the street from the ferris wheel. The view across the river helps me get my bearings of this sprawling city.

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


And there is the Hungarian Parliament Building! I've got to say, if there was one disappointment in our river cruise, it's that we didn't arrive in Budapest at night, sailing past this landmark building when it's all lit up.

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The tour is over, and we head to our hotel. A buffet lunch is served, and of all things, I can't get over the strawberries! They are dark red and as sweet as candy. 

The afternoon is at our leisure. I've learned from our quick overview of Budapest this morning that this is a BIG city -- not compact like Prague. However, our hotel is close enough to most of what we want to see. We stroll down to the Danube River and the famous Chain Bridge, one of the world's most impressive spans.

Chain Bridge in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


On this warm summer-like Saturday, it seems that everyone in the entire city is out and about, enjoying the day. 

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The bridge is long, and it's hot, so we go halfway across and turn around. All the way across will take us back to Buda, where we were this morning. 

Chain Bridge in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The views from Chain Bridge do pay dividends. 

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The others head back to the hotel to rest before dinner. With only two days in Budapest, I refuse to waste a minute, and continue wandering around and exploring the Pest side where we are staying. It's bustling, and hectic, much like New York or London. The main streets are broad and filled with noisy traffic, but just beyond one can find quiet side streets.

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


We have an amazing dinner on our own tonight at Rezkakas Bistro. The goulash is delectable, and the live trio of local musicians is a perfect accompaniment. After dessert, I insist that we take a taxi back to the Buda side of the river to see the Parliament lit up in all its glory. After all, it is the Hungarian equivalent of seeing the Eiffel Tower at night. 

Hungarian Parliament in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


Hungarian Parliament in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


It's morning now, and I am looking forward to seeing the Doheny Street Synagogue. It is the largest in Europe, and the second largest in the world, after Belz Great Synagogue in Jerusalem. Compared to the synagogues we saw in Prague, this one is relatively new, having been built in the mid-1800's. It's so large, I can't get far enough away to capture it in its entirety in my photos. I know I'd find it to be an emotional experience to attend a service there. 

Doheny Synagogue in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary

Doheny Synagogue in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


Just a few blocks away is another iconic landmark, the Hungarian State Opera House, which opened its doors in 1884. 

Hungarian Opera House in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


After lunch, we have free time, and the must-see on our list is Shoes On The Danube. It is a memorial to thousands of Hungarian Jews who were shot into the Danube in the mid-1940's. Many were told to step out of their shoes, and then were shot, falling into to river. The 60 pair of shoes along the river bank look real, but they were sculpted out of iron to replicate shoes of the era, and are are bolted to the concrete. It's a chilling reminder of persecution not so long ago, looking as if they were left there recently.

Shoes On The Danube memorial in Budapest  | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The memorial is just a five minute walk from the Parliament building. 

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


Tonight is the final night of our tour. Our farewell dinner is held in the Akademia Klub, a magnificent building near the river bank. The food is fair, but the entertainment is lively. There is no air conditioning, and the room is sweltering. I'm uncomfortably hot, and tempted to yank off my Spanx and toss them into a garbage can. But, thanks to the views outside the window as the sun goes down, my Spanx prank is soon forgotten.

Budapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #danuberivercruise #hungary


The music stops, the buses take us back to the hotel, and with that, vacation is over.

I'm ready to go home.

I'm not ready to go home.

Whenever I leave Europe, I always feel a little wistful, since I don't know how long it will be until we will return.  But return, we will, of that I am certain. And, in the meantime.............


There's no place like home. 

If only we could click our heels and be there.




This is a multi-part series about our Danube River cruise. 

Read 10 Things To Know About River Cruising here
 Read Our First Day In Prague here.
Read Day 2 In Prague here.
Read Day 3 In Prague here
Read A Day In Medieval Regensburg, Germany here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 1: Engelhartszell here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 2: Salzburg here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 3: Durnstein here.
Read Scenery Of The Wachau Valley here. 
Read Vienna: Exploring The Old Town here.
Read Bratislava: Slovakia's Charming Capital here.




 
eBudapest is considered the pearl of the Danube River. Now I know why. | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #budapest #fishermansbastion #danuberivercruise #hungary


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Sunday, August 26, 2018

BRATISLAVA: SLOVAKIA'S CHARMING CAPITAL



Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise



This is a multi-part series about our Danube River cruise.

River Cruise Day 10

Every time I think about last night, I fall over laughing!  It was such a hoot! Local Slavic folk dancers provided our onboard entertainment, and one of them pulled Mr. Goo Shoes out of the audience to do the polka with her.  Mr. GS was a good sport, and was rewarded with a tremendous round of applause. We were laughing hysterically -- not because he wasn't good -- he was terrific! It's just that if you know Mr. GS, he's the last person who would want to get up and dance in front of a crowd. I recorded it and can't wait to send it to Junior GS! 

Today we are touring Bratislava, Slovakia. I'm not sure what to expect, although the crew says we will be pleasantly surprised. It's never been on my radar as a must-see destination, but what could be bad about a medieval Old Town which has been in existence since 900 A.D.?  The entire historic district is a pedestrian zone, another plus in my book.

I'm feeling a bit intimidated because I've read that Slovak women are among the most beautiful in the world. We've walked only two blocks, and from what I've seen so far, I believe this to be true........attractive and impeccably dressed. The fact that I am wearing sensible walking shoes doesn't do much for my self image, in comparison. Kinda reminds me of how I felt in Capri.
 
After just a short walk from the ship, the beautiful neo-renaissance building which houses the Slovak National Theater is in our sights. Oy, I feel a little dizzy - is it excitement? Nope, just this wavy sidewalk.


Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


The first thing I see is a McDonald's on the corner, which is actually the last thing I want to see in Europe.  Oh, Bratislava, please don't disappoint me!
Slovak National Theater in Bratislava's medieval Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Slovak National Theater in Bratislava's medieval Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


We head into the Old Town, and I'm pleasantly surprised by the colorful architecture. Buildings were painted in cheerful hues to add warmth to a city that was dreary under communist rule. It almost makes me forget about McDonald's; in fact, I'm now only one Big Mac away from liking this town.

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


How can I not warm to Bratislava's charm and obvious sense of humor, when we come upon the first of several unconventional statues, Cumil, Man At Work. I'm glad I'm not wearing a skirt! Dirty old man!

"Cumil, Man At Work" is one of several quirky statues in Bratislava | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Jesting aside, these quirky statues play an important role in the city. After the fall of communism, they were commissioned to bring smiles to both locals and visitors. We're smiling, and we're taking the requisite photos!

One block later, I'm. All. In. 

Bratislava has won me over, hook, line and.........pinker!  The Pink Palace, aka Primates Palace, seals the deal. It's not quite big enough for Rapunzel to let down her hair in a dramatic fashion, but I'd be quite happy living here in this pretty-in-pink palace, thank you very much.  By the by, Napoleon's been here -- it's where he signed the Treaty of Pressburg in 1805. 

The Pink Palace, aka Primitial Palace in Bratislava's Old Town in Bratislava | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Inside, we see the famed Hall Of Mirrors, and a room of full of spectacular tapestries (sorry, no pictures allowed, says the docent). The tapestries were found in 1903 during a renovation, and it turns out, they were woven in the 1630's.  They tell the story of two lovers, a-la Romeo and Juliet, and like most Greek mythology, it has a tragic ending.

The Pink Palace, aka Primitial Palace in Bratislava's Old Town in Bratislava | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


The Pink Palace, aka Primitial Palace in Bratislava's Old Town in Bratislava | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise



Wait.........what did the guide just say this building is with the pretty tiled turquoise roof? I think it's Old Town Hall, but if she gives us a pop quiz right now, I'll fail. I have got to be a tour guide's nightmare -- I'm barely listening to her on my headset, as I scurry around 
taking pictures.


Bratislava's Old Town Hall | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


We walk through the gateway and on the other side, find ourselves in the most charming square, just next to the yellow clock tower of Old Town Hall. 


Bratislava's Old Town Square | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise

Bratislava's Old Town Hall | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


The Roland Fountain is the square's focal point and a popular meeting place for locals. It was ordered to be constructed in 1572 by Maximillian II, the King Of Royal Hungary. Legend has it that Maximillian is the town's protector. 

Roland Fountain in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


The buildings, one prettier than the next, are arranged in a pastel rainbow around the square.

Bratislava's Old Town Square | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


We meander through the side streets, and by now, I'm disappointed that we don't have more time in Bratislava. 

I'd love to sit outside at one of the many delightful cafes for cocktails and dinner as the sun goes down.........

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Wander the back alleys..........

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


And do a little shopping........

At least we'll have a few hours of free time after the walking tour, and we'll squeeze in what we can.

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Next stop on the tour is Michalska....... one of those streets my European dreams are made of. I'm envious of the people who actually live here, on this delightful plaza, above the cafes. How-oh-how did I end up in New Jersey? 

Sigh.

Michalska Street in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise

Michalska Street in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Our guide teases us that a Slovakian treat awaits us at the last stop (now she's got my attention).  We round the corner, and (please don't call the cliche police), just when we think Bratislava can't possibly get any better, it does. There, I said it. 

What I won't even try to say is the name of where we are now:  Hviezdoslavovo Square (pronunciation should only be tried after a series of strong cocktails). H-vovo Square, as I dub it, is a pretty, park-like pedestrian boulevard, lined with restaurants, bars, and fountains.

Hviezdoslavovo Square in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise

Hviezdoslavovo Square in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


Our treat is a taste of Slovakia's answer to the croissant --  kifli -- sweet rolls filled with poppy or almond paste. It's lovely to nibble on them at an outdoor cafe, under the canopy of trees.

Hviezdoslavovo Square in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


On our own now, there's time to browse in the shops, and grab some lunch outside at Roland Cafe on the main square, with a perfect view of the fountain. I order a local specialty which is basically shredded meat wrapped in a huge potato pancake........a "Bratis-latke", so to speak!  My prior research on Slovakian delicacies reveals that we must try the poppy strudel. Scrumptious! Silly me, I wish in hindsight that I'd used my noodle and ordered some strudel to go.

Roland Fountain in Bratislava's Old Town | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


We spend as much time sightseeing on our own as we possibly can, without risk of missing the boat. 

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


I don't know it until way after vacation is over, but our friends snap this picture of Mr. GS and I while heading back to the ship. The only way it could be more perfect is if we had balloons tied to our backs. It's that kind of day.

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise


In the end, there's only one way to sum things up:

I "lova" Bratislava!

Tonight is our last night on the Ms. Joy. We're all feeling a little sad, as it means that most of vacation is behind us. But, we've still got two more full days to enjoy on land in Budapest!

To be continued.........



This is a multi-part series about our Danube River cruise. 

Read 10 Things To Know About River Cruising here
 Read Our First Day In Prague here.
Read Day 2 In Prague here.
Read Day 3 In Prague here
Read A Day In Medieval Regensburg, Germany here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 1: Engelhartszell here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 2: Salzburg here.
Read Picturesque Towns Of Austria Part 3: Durnstein here.
Read Scenery Of The Wachau Valley here. 
Read Vienna: Exploring The Old Town here.
 Read Budapest: The Pearl of the Danube River here.


 

Bratislava's medieval Old Town is sure to charm it's visitors | Ms. Toody Goo Shoes #bratislava #slovakia #danuberivercruise



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