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I鈥檓 changing the PTFE in my heatbreak, I didn鈥檛 realize these seem to be consumables. It started causing blockage.

A guy sent me a piece of PTFE from his Prusa MK3S+ that I could try as i was having trouble finding any PTFE quickly.

I realized I couldn鈥檛 just cut a piece and put it in, that caused a lot of filament leakage and underextrusion. The end of the PTFE toward the nozzle was a bit jagged and I believe that鈥檚 where the leakage happened. Now I鈥檓 wondering how the heatbreak and nozzle normally interface inside the heatblock, should they be touching? Should the PTFE protrude a bit from the heatbreak so there鈥檚 a bit of pressure against the nozzle when I screw it in?

  • MrSlicer@lemmy.world
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    3 years ago

    When you order bowden tube it comes with a cutter. Make sure your fittings are tight.

    But also heat up the hotend remove the nozzle and tube. Then push in through a piece of old bowden tube. This ensures there is no remaking plastic in the throat. Now reassemble. the old ptfe tu

  • greenelf@lemmy.world
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    3 years ago

    If it鈥檚 the standard hotend the tube touches the nozzle. It shouldn鈥檛 really be consumable but if you are printing at higher temps (i.e. over 220C or so) it can melt. If you are printing at those temps it鈥檚 worth swapping out for an all metal hotend.

    It鈥檚 also really important to make sure the PTFE tube is cut really, really straight and even where it interfaces with the nozzle. I鈥檓 not sure if Enders come with a cutter but you can look up a Ptfe cutter online.

    One more bit of advise is to use a high quality tubing like Capricorn PTFE since cheaper stuff can melt at lower temps.

    • Flexaris@discuss.tchncs.deOP
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      3 years ago

      Yeah I鈥檝e been printing a little PETG at about 240, but it鈥檚 something I rarely do so I haven鈥檛 opted for a all metal hotend and as I understood it I thought it was okay until about 250 C, but I guess not. It鈥檚 really mostly PLA that I print though.

      I鈥檒l look for a PTFE cutter, thanks!