I found alcohol (IPA) wasn’t a reliable fix for all failing 1st layer issues. I still use it because it seems to slow down the inevitable and it’s quick compared with a trip to the sink.

Hard to tell, most of it looks fairly good except a few spots here and there.

That could be grease on the print bed, maybe time to give it a wash? When PETG goes wrong for me, it’s this 90% of the time.

I use hot water and a little detergent with a lot of rinsing. Use gloves because even clean hands leave oils behind.

With PETG it’s hard to get the first layer right but if it’s good the rest of the print generally goes fine.

Molten PETG is very sticky and if you get a bit stuck to the nozzle it can build up, get worse and suddenly take out a bunch of nearby lines leading to gaps in the layer like this.

To counter this PETG first layer should be:

• Printed very slow e.g. 20mm/s
• At a higher Z offset than PLA, the plastic should flow out the nozzle and fall onto the bed rather than be squished flat.
• High bed temperature 80C / 176F
• Zero or very low fan speed for the first couple of layers

If you can see marks left by the nozzle it’s too low. The lines should have a rounded look.

It could also be wet filament, does it make popping sounds when printing?

I was a bit of a deadbeat, I had a reasonably ok job but I was living in a tiny flat and spent most of the money I earned on drink and drugs, didn’t have a steady GF. I was into all sorts of extreme sports then and that led to a pretty serious biking accident requiring multiple trips to hospital. Was very lucky it wasn’t fatal.

It was 2008 and that was the turning point.

Maybe due my brush with death? I started to turn my life around. I stopped smoking. Changed my scenery. Quit my dead end job after finding better one. Moved from the city to the countryside to be with my girlfrend then got married.

It’s hard to think all of that would have happend if that tree hadn’t been growing in that particular spot for me to crash into. Things could have gone very differently.

He’s not fooling me! That computer is switched off and he’s not even looking at the screen.

If anyone is curious you can see what was written on those volumes here https://github.com/philspil66/Apollo-11/tree/main

WKP - might mean wake up. SDA - serial data out SCL - serial clock RST - reset GND, 5+V - power and ground

Ok so it will be talking to another chip on the keyboard PCB. Not a programming interface.

The easy version would be to feed it 5V current

You could cut or de-solder the ribbon cables and power the upper board alone connecting the +5V and GND wires on the left ribbon to an appropriate power supply. If the upper board isnt blown you might be able to get it to work.

This kind of two board design is quite common. The bottom PCB is a mixed high + low voltage board that includes the mains power supply with bridge rectifier, transformer and smoothing caps. It sends low voltage power to the upper board via the ribbon.

The upper board is entirely low voltage and has a microcontroller, display, buzzer and the control knob. Sensors and switches in the oven are passed over the ribbon to the controller, and control signals are passed back through the ribbon to the relays on the power board which then switch high voltage power to bulbs, fans, and other stuff.

As long as you don’t connect it to mains power it’s a safe low voltage in this case, there is nothing on this board that will generate high voltage from 5V. Don’t leave it powered when you’re not there, low voltage can still burn your house down!

The more complicated version would be to also reprogram the chip

This is unlikely, but you never know. Its probably a custom pre-programmed chip that can’t be erased, or at the least it has been locked so it can’t be modified or have the software read out. It’s possible that it could be programmed in place on the board without de-soldering.

Interestingly the upper PCB also seems to have something that looks like an SPI port (P21) it’s possible this controls something in the oven but I doubt it. It could be a programming interface but SPI is not typically used for that, maybe a test interface? Hard to say. (edit on 2nd thoughts it probably is a programming interface)

Someone with good electronics / software skills could replace it with an equivalent blank programmable CPU and program it (with something), but that would be a big project even for experienced engineers. Mostly the lack of detailed info about the hardware usually makes it easier to design something new from scratch than to reverse engineer somone elses design.

Anyone else see this as a gold nugget in the thumbnail?

pacman?

I had one of these, it worked perfectly for years. I might even still have it. I remember it being a significant leap in size and cost per MB.

uugh! overcooked pasta

Baccatcha

A Raspberry Pi 3 Model B

It’s connected to my 3d printer and runs octoprint allowing me to upload print jobs. and control the printer from my home network.
It serves up the Pi camera video stream.
It can also switch the printers light on and off.

No cluster setup.

I think the hole feature directly translates into drill instructions in compatible output formats. Where pocket just modifes the 3d shape, not that you couldn’t use a drill but it would need more software to spot the hole like shape and use a drill for it.

This is the reason I exclusively use pockets not holes. This works great for 3d-printing but wont work as well if you intend to export to CAM systems that can use a drill to make the holes.

This seems strangely just a little bit wrong.

As mentioned there’s no units on STL files so the slicer assumes millimeters but warns you if it thinks the scaling is obviously not right.

My blender units are meters.

If I just export the default cube from blender (which is 2x2x2) and load it up in the slicer I get a prompt saying the units seem to defined in inches. It’s assuming I can’t possibly want to print a 2mm wide cube. Do I want to convert it to inches?

If I answer No, I get a perfect 2mm cube, good luck printing that. If I choose Yes, to convert it then I get a cube 50.8mm across. (2x 25.4mm) exactly 2 inches as expected.

Going back to blender, deleteing the default cube and creating another cube but scaled to 0.1m. This time exporting to STL on the export save dialog there is a scale setting: set this to 1000 (to convert from blender 1m units to Prusa 0.001m units). Now the STL is imported into the slicer with no fuss and is exactly a 100mm cube.

It seems I can’t recreate your problem.